PCB Commission

[cirrus82]

Anyone interested in designing a full size pcb? I have a good budget and would love to do it from the ground up and then open source the whole thing. I've seen GH60 and think that looks incredible but isn't the right form factor for me. I'd like to do something that I could fund to get quick traction and then give back.

I have considerations that go further than this but want to make sure I'm not barking up the wrong tree..I'll shut up if so

[Photekq]

Suggestion : Add score lines so that the numpad can be snapped off. This way you'll have a TKL and fullsize PCB in one.

Also, make sure it supports PCB mount stabilisers and switches.

[agodinhost]

I would love to help.

I'm kinda in the middle of a few projects - however I think I can find some time to help ya.

Start your project and post pictures of your on going here - I's sure that more people will come to hep!

"Making stuff together" is definitely my favorite thread ...

[jdcarpe]

Anyone interested in designing a full size pcb? I have a good budget and would love to do it from the ground up and then open source the whole thing. I've seen GH60 and think that looks incredible but isn't the right form factor for me. I'd like to do something that I could fund to get quick traction and then give back.

I have considerations that go further than this but want to make sure I'm not barking up the wrong tree..I'll shut up if so

Suggestion : Add score lines so that the numpad can be snapped off. This way you'll have a TKL and fullsize PCB in one.

Also, make sure it supports PCB mount stabilisers and switches.

I'm not sure where he stands with his project, but bpiphany had just that in mind for his post-Phantom project. komar007 and regack are also well versed in keyboard PCB design, as well as agodinhost above.

I think many people would be interested in a full size, backlit, fully programmable keyboard, with customizable layouts and the option to break off the numpad section to have a TKL keyboard. I know I am.

[regack]

Anyone interested in designing a full size pcb? I have a good budget and would love to do it from the ground up and then open source the whole thing. I've seen GH60 and think that looks incredible but isn't the right form factor for me. I'd like to do something that I could fund to get quick traction and then give back.


I have considerations that go further than this but want to make sure I'm not barking up the wrong tree..I'll shut up if so

Suggestion : Add score lines so that the numpad can be snapped off. This way you'll have a TKL and fullsize PCB in one.


Also, make sure it supports PCB mount stabilisers and switches.

I'm not sure where he stands with his project, but bpiphany had just that in mind for his post-Phantom project. komar007 and regack are also well versed in keyboard PCB design, as well as agodinhost above.


I think many people would be interested in a full size, backlit, fully programmable keyboard, with customizable layouts and the option to break off the numpad section to have a TKL keyboard. I know I am.

In random spurts I've been toying with this, but it's more modular, than one big PCB...  I'll keep an eye on this though.

[kolonelkadat]

Suggestion : Add score lines so that the numpad can be snapped off. This way you'll have a TKL and fullsize PCB in one.

but vgrooves would cut the traces on the surfaces. youd have to drill it like perf board and run traces between the holes. but you could probably  get most of it routered if you packed the traces cleverly.

[cirrus82]

I'm nowhere with the project beyond a desire and financial commitment to make it happen

I'm a programmer, I've written software to plot the 2D (top down) layout in millimeters following both cherry specs and signature plastic's key size specs.  I was planning on using it to print my own PCB (literally do all the imaging for the PCB in my software) but quickly realized I'd need it to be double sided and lining that up with the homebrew method seems painful and would require a lot of hardware for me to start up at home.  Hiring someone to design the PCB and paying for prints from a reputable company sounds like a better path.  So that brings me to this thread, I'm looking for someone to do the PCB design and be paid for it so that there's incentive in getting it done soon!  Otherwise I'd spend the time to learn it myself   If someone wants to do it for free, I'd be happy to pay for the prints and whatever else is necessary for the full final product for them (or two/three/four of them? whatever is fair). 

Regarding plates, I was actually thinking about having the plate extend into the body itself (probably two pieces of machined aluminum), but that goes beyond the first step which is to get a PCB with basic plate stud/mounts (standoffs?).

I'm also looking for guidance and suggestions, I'm very new to this and want to approach it humbly.

[Photekq]

but vgrooves would cut the traces on the surfaces. youd have to drill it like perf board and run traces between the holes. but you could probably  get most of it routered if you packed the traces cleverly.

Sorry, bad word choice. I meant something like this :
http://i.imgur.com/aqGFwdh.jpg

[Photekq]

I'm also looking for guidance and suggestions, I'm very new to this and want to approach it humbly.

What I suggest is the following :
-Full size PCB that allows for the removal of the numpad so that it can be used as a TKL pcb aswell (as I've mentioned in a previous post)
-Microcontroller on the PCB, instead of a teensy or other breakout board.
-All SMD components, so that it can be manufactured with pick & place
-PCB mount Cherry stabilisers
-PCB mount Cherry switches
-ISO and ANSI layout
-Support for both 1.5/1/1.5/7/1.5/1/1.5 and 1.25/1.25/1.25/6.25/1.25/1.25/1.25/1.25 bottom rows
-Micro USB
-Full LED
-NKRO of course

I am already designing a custom TKL CNC aluminium/brass case. I'm just waiting for the right PCB. I was thinking about using the A87 PCB, but I would much prefer to use something designed by the Geekhack community.

The GH60 is, in my mind, a 'perfect' 60% PCB. A TKL/fullsize version of that would be a dream come true.

[korrelate]

Suggestion : Add score lines so that the numpad can be snapped off. This way you'll have a TKL and fullsize PCB in one.

Also, make sure it supports PCB mount stabilisers and switches.

Photekq is spot-on on both suggestions. Love the support for pcb mount.

Something else that would really turn me on: black pcb because flashy red pcbs are just too gaudy.

Also, wait for it (and this is really reaching): mx AND alps/matias compatability.

[cirrus82]

The suggestions by Photekq sound awesome but are definitely many more features than what I was planning. 

My initial thinking (and I think this will greatly depend on cost) was:

• Full layout only
• Plate mount only
• ANSI only
• 1.25/1.25/1.25/6.25/1.25/1.25/1.25/1.25 bottom row
• Mini USB (why do you recommend micro?)
• NKRO (of course, agreed)
• Full LED (lowest priority item from this list but highly wanted)

However, it's worth doing it right and if the cost of commissioning a board like that is within my budget, I'd be all for it.  I really like the idea of the SMD components instead of the teensy, although that requires another level of expertise.

Does anyone know what would it cost to commission a board like that? You've listed a few different individuals who are part of this community who from what I've read are extremely talented.  It'd important to get the right person to do this so.

Regarding colors, I'm thinking that one of the nice things about having the design complete and open sourced is that you can have the PCB printed any way you'd like. Meaning anyone can organize any number of group buys for it.

[Pacifist]

go with micro it lasts longer

[Photekq]

I'll just go over my reasoning for a few of the features I suggested. I know very little about PCB design, but as far as I can tell these features would not add much complexity to the design of the PCB.

-Full layout/TKL hybrid.

I believe, if the circuitry is done correctly, the PCB could simply be cut so that the tenkeypad could be removed. You can see something like this on the GHPAD. Its design allows you to remove the bottom row if you want (see here : http://i.imgur.com/aqGFwdh.jpg). By doing something simple like that you're basically making a 2-in-1 PCB. This is a logical thing to do IMO, since GH is lacking a PERFECT TKL & fullsize PCB. Of course there is the Phantom. It's a great PCB. But it ain't perfect.

-PCB mount stabilisers

My justification for these... They feel freakin' awesome when correctly modded! They're the perfect stabiliser. Add a few holes on the PCB - that's all that is required to allow the PCB to support them.

-PCB mount switches

Two extra holes per switch and the PCB will support PCB mount MX switches. It opens up possibilities. There's no real reason not to support PCB mount switches.

-ISO

Europeans need some love too! The difference between ISO and ANSI is quite small, and would not complicate the design much at all. I believe you'd need to add 5 switch holes + 1 set of stabiliser holes.

-1.5/etc bottom row

A lot of people here swear by original Cherry keycaps, that almost always come with a 1.5x bottom row. For a lot of people the ability to use these keycaps is one of the main advantages of having a custom keyboard.

-Micro USB

It's a better, more durable connector.

-Full LED

This is lowest priority for me aswell. All I care about are the lock LEDs. But, of course, a lot of people love LEDs.

[cirrus82]

All your points make sense.  Who is best suited to doing this? Would $3,000-$5,000 be sufficient to commission just the design of a board like this? Who should I get in touch with to find out?  I'd pay for the PCB prototyping separately if necessary.

[IvanIvanovich]

I agree with what most of Photekq comment. I would also like to add, JIS/Brazilian layout support... might as well really make it an all in one for everyone in the world. Design dimension so it fit in G8x-3000/1000 casebody. If it's going to be PCB mount we need a case that can do it that is easily available for cheap... some of us can't afford to blow $300 on fancy metal cases!

[Photekq]

Design dimension so it fit in G8x-3000/1000 casebody. If it's going to be PCB mount we need a case that can do it that is easily available for cheap... some of us can't afford to blow $300 on fancy metal cases!

That's a pretty good idea actually.

It's not really a problem but some people might not be too happy with the aesthetics of the large gap between the F-row and number-row on G80 boards, and they may want a smaller gap if they're going to use this PCB in a custom board. I personally don't care though and I think it's a great idea to make it G80 compatible.

[IvanIvanovich]

Well that may be true... but I can't think of any other alternative that is as easily available for very cheap. I just imagine building something better than 3494 for 3/4 or less of it's price.

[jdcarpe]

Well that may be true... but I can't think of any other alternative that is as easily available for very cheap. I just imagine building something better than 3494 for 3/4 or less of it's price.

How is it I can never find a G80-3000 for cheap?

I can get a Rosewill cheap, if the PCB would fit in a Rosewill case.

[IvanIvanovich]

Try less specific search like 'Cherry keyboard' and simply wade through the ****. Don't forget misspellings, wrong categories, etc... it's how I get most of my good finds along with simply browsing categories. I still wish I could come up with some way to filter out all laptop keyboards... that would reduce the **** by like 5000% LOL.
Don't forget to look for the rebrands either... like APC, Peacock, Highscreen, Tandon, etc. Many people know about the NCR and Olivetti but don't often look for many of the others. I know how glad I am that I remembered to search for Goupil on a whim and ended up with a whole 286 with Cherry G80-18XX for only $75! If you have a lot of time, searching though old complete bundles like 286/386 era stuff could have a nice payoff.
The Cherry made rebrands are generally unmistakable when you know what Cherry looks like, but beware of some of the early G83 models that look identical to G80 like the AT&T G83-3000SAU. You will think you have found dyesub gold for only $5, but you will be very sad when you realized its a rubberdomes.

[Photekq]

The Cherry made rebrands are generally unmistakable when you know what Cherry looks like, but beware of some of the early G83 models that look identical to G80 like the AT&T G83-3000SAU. You will think you have found dyesub gold for only $5, but you will be very sad when you realized its a rubberdomes.

E.G : http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.163.wBnQgs&id=36075679225

Nubs on f&j = rubberdome
Scoops on f&j = MX/MY