Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[MOZ]

There's not much to lose IMO. Converting it will allow you to use either Easy AVR or TMK/QMK. One is extremely easy to use and doesn't require you to compile anything, and with the latest version, no need to use FLIP separately, you can upload the firmware directly from within Easy AVR or you can use TMK/QMK which is super flexible and allows you to do pretty much whatever you want, but you have to setup the AVR toolchain.

[Brammm87]

Anyone if you can buy switch top removal tools in Europe (like these: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1363)? I would buy em off mk.com, but the shipping is ridiculous...

I think they can probably ship cheaper if you contact them and ask.

If they can't I'm sure I could proxy some for you.

I've contacted them and bought 20 Will be selling them here once I get them

[joey]

I have some blue alps that aren't working. Can I replace their leafs with either Matias QC or dampened cream alps? (Without changing the feel)

[emdude]

I have some blue alps that aren't working. Can I replace their leafs with either Matias QC or dampened cream alps? (Without changing the feel)

Could you elaborate on how they aren't working?  Do you mean the click leaf or the switchplate?  Regardless, short answer is no. 

EDIT: Well, if it's the switchplate that's damaged, switching it out with one from a cream damped Alps switch will work, but I imagine it will affect the feel/sound.

[joey]

I have some blue alps that aren't working. Can I replace their leafs with either Matias QC or dampened cream alps? (Without changing the feel)

Could you elaborate on how they aren't working?  Do you mean the click leaf or the switchplate?  Regardless, short answer is no.

I mean they don't register a key press and the leaf.

[emdude]

I have some blue alps that aren't working. Can I replace their leafs with either Matias QC or dampened cream alps? (Without changing the feel)

Could you elaborate on how they aren't working?  Do you mean the click leaf or the switchplate?  Regardless, short answer is no.

I mean they don't register a key press and the leaf.

Ah, well, I'm pretty certain that the leaf has no bearing on whether the switch works (you can remove it outright to make the switch linear, after all), so it might be an issue with the switchplate or how the switch has been soldered (if you're testing it on an actual keyboard).

The leaves from the cream damped Alps and Matias QC are of the tactile kind, so those won't work.  You'll want to get a leaf from a clicky SKCM, preferably another blue Alps switch.

[joey]

Ah. So maybe I can desolder the switch, and replace the black plastic part and the 'switch plate' (Assuming that's the other metallic part that sits in the switch)

[CPTBadAss]

Ah. So maybe I can desolder the switch, and replace the black plastic part and the 'switch plate' (Assuming that's the other metallic part that sits in the switch)

If you do decide to open the switch up be careful, they're called complicated Alps for a reason. I'd check to see if the solder joint is good. If not, take it apart carefully and soak it in isopropyl. Hopefully it's just dirt and grime making it feel weird and not say a bent click leaf.

[joey]

Ah. So maybe I can desolder the switch, and replace the black plastic part and the 'switch plate' (Assuming that's the other metallic part that sits in the switch)

If you do decide to open the switch up be careful, they're called complicated Alps for a reason. I'd check to see if the solder joint is good. If not, take it apart carefully and soak it in isopropyl. Hopefully it's just dirt and grime making it feel weird and not say a bent click leaf.

I have already taken some apart, to much frustration! (I have checked with tweezers, touching the solder causes the switch to register)

[joey]

Working switchplate:


Non working:


Can't tell if the working one is protruding inwards more?

Is the switch base the same for all alps? If so I can just de-solder these and replace them with some damped alps bases.

[CPTBadAss]

Working switchplate:

Show Image

Non working:

Show Image

Can't tell if the working one is protruding inwards more?

Is the switch base the same for all alps? If so I can just de-solder these and replace them with some damped alps bases.

I don't see anything that would lead me to believe that the switch isn't working. And yes like Cherry MX, the bases are the same.

[ideus]

There's not much to lose IMO. Converting it will allow you to use either Easy AVR or TMK/QMK. One is extremely easy to use and doesn't require you to compile anything, and with the latest version, no need to use FLIP separately, you can upload the firmware directly from within Easy AVR or you can use TMK/QMK which is super flexible and allows you to do pretty much whatever you want, but you have to setup the AVR toolchain.

The warning on bricking the Nerd does not sound encouraging, though, I'd better live with TouchCursor.

[CD-ROMantic]

I hope this is the correct place to ask, I didn't see my exact question answered in the OP so here goes-
So I recently picked up one of those zhuque+ hot swappable keyboards, because I wanted to check out various keyswitches that weren't my standard Cherry Reds. While I was putting my Gateron Whites in I noticed something- the stabilizers that it has are weird. They're not the Cherry stabs that I've seen in my other two keyboards... taking my shift key from my K65 it fits fine (but doesn't offer as much stability). So my question is- can I remove the stabs in this thing and replace them with Cherry stabs? I'd rather know before I go dumping any money into parts.
this is the stabilizer in question.

[ideus]

I hope this is the correct place to ask, I didn't see my exact question answered in the OP so here goes-
So I recently picked up one of those zhuque+ hot swappable keyboards, because I wanted to check out various keyswitches that weren't my standard Cherry Reds. While I was putting my Gateron Whites in I noticed something- the stabilizers that it has are weird. They're not the Cherry stabs that I've seen in my other two keyboards... taking my shift key from my K65 it fits fine (but doesn't offer as much stability). So my question is- can I remove the stabs in this thing and replace them with Cherry stabs? I'd rather know before I go dumping any money into parts.

Show Image

this is the stabilizer in question.

If it has dip sockets, which is what how swappable means, you could get all the switches off, separate the plate from the PCB and check if an standard Cherry stab fits on the PCB and though the plate, the second seems feasible, but the PCB should have the appropriated holes to allow the plastic bases of the stabs to fit in.

Edit: You may also try to fit some Cherry plate mounted stabs instead, the notches seems to be close in size to plate mounted Cherry stabs.

[tofgerl]

Yeah, those plate stabs look like they are plug-in-replaceable with Cherry plate ones. But why would anyone put WORSE plate stabs in? Patent infringement on the Cherry stabs?

[katushkin]

Has anyone used the zinc modifiers from Massdrop/zinc keys in general? What weight is the minimum you would recommend using them on?

[CPTBadAss]

Has anyone used the zinc modifiers from Massdrop/zinc keys in general? What weight is the minimum you would recommend using them on?

They're kinda heavy so I'd go with like 67g minimum I think. Also they're rather cold to the touch and take a while to warm up.

[ideus]

Is there any reference that reports on how Gateron greens compare to stock Cherry clears, greens and ergo-clears?

[CPTBadAss]

Is there any reference that reports on how Gateron greens compare to stock Cherry clears, greens and ergo-clears?

KeyChatter thinks they're the Gateron version of Cherry MX Greens. So they wouldn't feel like Clears/Ergo-Clears since the comparison implies that they're clicky.

[ideus]

Is there any reference that reports on how Gateron greens compare to stock Cherry clears, greens and ergo-clears?

KeyChatter thinks they're the Gateron version of Cherry MX Greens. So they wouldn't feel like Clears/Ergo-Clears since the comparison implies that they're clicky.

That is a good starting point; but, then, what do you think that, it is the Gateron's stem closer to Cherry's clear one? Not including Zealios, that I think now are a bit over-rated and over-priced.

[CPTBadAss]

That is a good starting point; but, then, what do you think that, it is the Gateron's stem closer to Cherry's clear one? Not including Zealios, that I think now are a bit over-rated and over-priced.

I don't know what you mean by being closer to Clear. I will say I prefer Gaterons to Cherry. However, the Gateron Browns don't feel enough like Cherry MX Clears. I like the Zealios as they feel like Ergo-Clears without the extra hassle but they are really pricey.

I've personally written two reviews on Gateron switches: Zealio vs Cherry Clear and Blacks. I think Gaterons are cheap enough that it's pretty easy to get a hold of some and try them for yourself.

[tofgerl]

Yeah, I wish zealios was at that price...

[ideus]

That is a good starting point; but, then, what do you think that, it is the Gateron's stem closer to Cherry's clear one? Not including Zealios, that I think now are a bit over-rated and over-priced.

I don't know what you mean by being closer to Clear. I will say I prefer Gaterons to Cherry. However, the Gateron Browns don't feel enough like Cherry MX Clears. I like the Zealios as they feel like Ergo-Clears without the extra hassle but they are really pricey.

I've personally written two reviews on Gateron switches: Zealio vs Cherry Clear and Blacks. I think Gaterons are cheap enough that it's pretty easy to get a hold of some and try them for yourself.

I have read your reviews previously; actually, that was the main reason I bought R1 Zealios; however, my experience differ from yours; because, I found the Zealios to feel quite different to Ergo Clears. I am typing right now on my GON with Zealios that I use at work, and I am missing my GON with Ergo clears that is at home, but I do not want to commute with the last from home to work and back, every day. That is why I wonder if the new Green Gateron come closer to Clears; but, as you said, they may not at all, meaning that there is no replacement for Ergo clears, at least, for my personal taste.

The two keyboards are very close to each other, both are plate mounted, both are based on a GON Nerd60 and have OG Cherry sets pretty much of the same age, ~ early 90s, they even have both Gateron's switch translucent PCB mounted bottoms with Gateron's clear tops, same module gold springs, the only difference being the stems, factory Zealios and authentic Cherry clear stems inside Gateron housings, but the feeling is noticeable different, the Ergo are snappy, firm and feel a bit heavier, while the Zealios feel mushier, wobblier and lighter.

Thank you very much for the information and for keeping this nice thread running.

[katushkin]

Has anyone used the zinc modifiers from Massdrop/zinc keys in general? What weight is the minimum you would recommend using them on?

They're kinda heavy so I'd go with like 67g minimum I think. Also they're rather cold to the touch and take a while to warm up.

Damn, OK. No good weight then I was hoping to put them on regular Ergo clears, but oh well...

[Sifo]

That is a good starting point; but, then, what do you think that, it is the Gateron's stem closer to Cherry's clear one? Not including Zealios, that I think now are a bit over-rated and over-priced.

I don't know what you mean by being closer to Clear. I will say I prefer Gaterons to Cherry. However, the Gateron Browns don't feel enough like Cherry MX Clears. I like the Zealios as they feel like Ergo-Clears without the extra hassle but they are really pricey.

I've personally written two reviews on Gateron switches: Zealio vs Cherry Clear and Blacks. I think Gaterons are cheap enough that it's pretty easy to get a hold of some and try them for yourself.

I have read your reviews previously; actually, that was the main reason I bought R1 Zealios; however, my experience differ from yours; because, I found the Zealios to feel quite different to Ergo Clears. I am typing right now on my GON with Zealios that I use at work, and I am missing my GON with Ergo clears that is at home, but I do not want to commute with the last from home to work and back, every day. That is why I wonder if the new Green Gateron come closer to Clears; but, as you said, they may not at all, meaning that there is no replacement for Ergo clears, at least, for my personal taste.

The two keyboards are very close to each other, both are plate mounted, both are based on a GON Nerd60 and have OG Cherry sets pretty much of the same age, ~ early 90s, they even have both Gateron's switch translucent PCB mounted bottoms with Gateron's clear tops, same module gold springs, the only difference being the stems, factory Zealios and authentic Cherry clear stems inside Gateron housings, but the feeling is noticeable different, the Ergo are snappy, firm and feel a bit heavier, while the Zealios feel mushier, wobblier and lighter.

Thank you very much for the information and for keeping this nice thread running.

There literally cannot be a 1:1 gateron to cherry clear because the bottom housing/leaf is different.

Put a cherry clear stem in a gateron bottom housing and solder it. The actuation will be completely messed up. I can't speak for zeal's switches, maybe it's corrected or maybe it's just a work around.

Ergo clear 4 lyf

[ideus]

That is a good starting point; but, then, what do you think that, it is the Gateron's stem closer to Cherry's clear one? Not including Zealios, that I think now are a bit over-rated and over-priced.

I don't know what you mean by being closer to Clear. I will say I prefer Gaterons to Cherry. However, the Gateron Browns don't feel enough like Cherry MX Clears. I like the Zealios as they feel like Ergo-Clears without the extra hassle but they are really pricey.

I've personally written two reviews on Gateron switches: Zealio vs Cherry Clear and Blacks. I think Gaterons are cheap enough that it's pretty easy to get a hold of some and try them for yourself.

I have read your reviews previously; actually, that was the main reason I bought R1 Zealios; however, my experience differ from yours; because, I found the Zealios to feel quite different to Ergo Clears. I am typing right now on my GON with Zealios that I use at work, and I am missing my GON with Ergo clears that is at home, but I do not want to commute with the last from home to work and back, every day. That is why I wonder if the new Green Gateron come closer to Clears; but, as you said, they may not at all, meaning that there is no replacement for Ergo clears, at least, for my personal taste.

The two keyboards are very close to each other, both are plate mounted, both are based on a GON Nerd60 and have OG Cherry sets pretty much of the same age, ~ early 90s, they even have both Gateron's switch translucent PCB mounted bottoms with Gateron's clear tops, same module gold springs, the only difference being the stems, factory Zealios and authentic Cherry clear stems inside Gateron housings, but the feeling is noticeable different, the Ergo are snappy, firm and feel a bit heavier, while the Zealios feel mushier, wobblier and lighter.

Thank you very much for the information and for keeping this nice thread running.

There literally cannot be a 1:1 gateron to cherry clear because the bottom housing/leaf is different.

Put a cherry clear stem in a gateron bottom housing and solder it. The actuation will be completely messed up. I can't speak for zeal's switches, maybe it's corrected or maybe it's just a work around.

Ergo clear 4 lyf

Just for the record, I am typing on clear Cherry stems installed inside Gateron bottoms and they feel great, they do not show any alteration in their actuation point.

[CommonCurt]

Ergo clear 4 lyf

[SpAmRaY]

That is a good starting point; but, then, what do you think that, it is the Gateron's stem closer to Cherry's clear one? Not including Zealios, that I think now are a bit over-rated and over-priced.

I don't know what you mean by being closer to Clear. I will say I prefer Gaterons to Cherry. However, the Gateron Browns don't feel enough like Cherry MX Clears. I like the Zealios as they feel like Ergo-Clears without the extra hassle but they are really pricey.

I've personally written two reviews on Gateron switches: Zealio vs Cherry Clear and Blacks. I think Gaterons are cheap enough that it's pretty easy to get a hold of some and try them for yourself.

I have read your reviews previously; actually, that was the main reason I bought R1 Zealios; however, my experience differ from yours; because, I found the Zealios to feel quite different to Ergo Clears. I am typing right now on my GON with Zealios that I use at work, and I am missing my GON with Ergo clears that is at home, but I do not want to commute with the last from home to work and back, every day. That is why I wonder if the new Green Gateron come closer to Clears; but, as you said, they may not at all, meaning that there is no replacement for Ergo clears, at least, for my personal taste.

The two keyboards are very close to each other, both are plate mounted, both are based on a GON Nerd60 and have OG Cherry sets pretty much of the same age, ~ early 90s, they even have both Gateron's switch translucent PCB mounted bottoms with Gateron's clear tops, same module gold springs, the only difference being the stems, factory Zealios and authentic Cherry clear stems inside Gateron housings, but the feeling is noticeable different, the Ergo are snappy, firm and feel a bit heavier, while the Zealios feel mushier, wobblier and lighter.

Thank you very much for the information and for keeping this nice thread running.

There literally cannot be a 1:1 gateron to cherry clear because the bottom housing/leaf is different.

Put a cherry clear stem in a gateron bottom housing and solder it. The actuation will be completely messed up. I can't speak for zeal's switches, maybe it's corrected or maybe it's just a work around.

Ergo clear 4 lyf

Just for the record, I am typing on clear Cherry stems installed inside Gateron bottoms and they feel great, they do not show any alteration in their actuation point.

Which gateron bottoms are you using?

When I put cherry mx clear stems in milky gateron bottoms some worked and some didn't they were unusable. I read others have had the same experience.

[Celcius]

I ended up getting a ducky one but could not stand the way the stabilized keys felt and sounded so returned it. I may just get another corsair k70 instead (but the newer rgb version this time).

[BobBobFSGG]

Have there been any development on the custom keyboards/PCBs with RGB in-switch lighting support (i.e like Cherry's MX RGB switches)?

Are the Input Club's K-Type is the only such keyboard on the horizon?

[CPTBadAss]

Have there been any development on the custom keyboards/PCBs with RGB in-switch lighting support (i.e like Cherry's MX RGB switches)?

Are the Input Club's K-Type is the only such keyboard on the horizon?

I thought Ducky had an RGB board out right now. And I also thought that GMK's new keyboard supported it.

[BobBobFSGG]

Have there been any development on the custom keyboards/PCBs with RGB in-switch lighting support (i.e like Cherry's MX RGB switches)?

Are the Input Club's K-Type is the only such keyboard on the horizon?

I thought Ducky had an RGB board out right now. And I also thought that GMK's new keyboard supported it.

I meant the customs. The Koreans, Chinese, other Asian or Western keyboards. Need a specially designed PCB to actually support full RGB in-switch lightning.

[tofgerl]

Are there chips available for that?

[BobBobFSGG]

I'm guessing yeS? How else regular RGB keyboards and K-Type are functioning? From what i've been told the hardest part about designing keyboard with RGB in-switch lightning is actually that you need to design the PCB from scratch with enough traces for each switch's LED with all other electronics in mind.

So i'm guessing there's still nothing out there.

[SpAmRaY]

And I also thought that GMK's new keyboard supported it.

Are you referring to the uniqey board? It doesn't have any backlighting options looking at the order page.

[tofgerl]

I'm guessing yeS? How else regular RGB keyboards and K-Type are functioning? From what i've been told the hardest part about designing keyboard with RGB in-switch lightning is actually that you need to design the PCB from scratch with enough traces for each switch's LED with all other electronics in mind.

So i'm guessing there's still nothing out there.

What I meant was "are there chips available for cheap?"

[Pemdas]

Has GMK done a white on red modifier set? Looking for some red mods but can only find the sp red alert ones.

[SpAmRaY]

Has GMK done a white on red modifier set? Looking for some red mods but can only find the sp red alert ones.

http://www.kbdist.com/ceresia?mc_cid=e4375482d5&mc_eid=e0614fdb1f

[Pemdas]

Has GMK done a white on red modifier set? Looking for some red mods but can only find the sp red alert ones.

http://www.kbdist.com/ceresia?mc_cid=e4375482d5&mc_eid=e0614fdb1f

Wow this is perfect ) Thanks for the link!

[Aliens]

Is there much difference between the Smart68 and the Red Scarf 68? How hard is it to get a hold of the RS68? Is there an easier/cheaper way to get a programmable keyboard in that layout? I assume that custom PCB and plates would be more expensive than an established board. I want Zealio 65s, I like the rimless pok3r style and I would love Rgb LEDs.

[tofgerl]

So here's a new one! I have an Alps64 board which used to work (as far as I remember), but I put it away because I needed one fewer keyboard than previously. Now that I've picked it back up, it has this kind of odd problem:

It starts out in layer 1 instead of 0! If I have FN keys available in layer1, they work fine, so I can access layer 2 and so on, and probably even layer 0, though I haven't tried making a new keymap just to test that.

So now I'm really confused. I've tried plain.c from TMK and my own keymap, and both start up in layer1.

I supposed I can just push all layers up one number and see if that works, but this is still really weird!!!

Cross-posting to Alps64 thread.

[gh_pp]

Is there any difference between the leopold FC750 vs FC750R ? (I tried google first )

For instance FC750 is only $114 vs FC750R is $184 on ebay.

https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_list&c=171

On leopold's website I didn't even see the mention of FC750

Thanks

[ideus]

Has GMK done a white on red modifier set? Looking for some red mods but can only find the sp red alert ones.

http://www.kbdist.com/ceresia?mc_cid=e4375482d5&mc_eid=e0614fdb1f

$75 USD? Well, you should invest thirty bucks more for a full set, unless the color be that important for you.

[ideus]

Does someone know where 6u wires for Cherry stabs can be sourced?

[tofgerl]

Is this possible? If so, it might be my endgame...

HHKB2 Silent with Hasu controller and SpaceFN, MX sliders and SA keys.

Seems like it would be possible, but I wonder what topre with SA would feel like, and if the Hasu controller works with silent boards.

[SpAmRaY]

Is this possible? If so, it might be my endgame...

HHKB2 Silent with Hasu controller and SpaceFN, MX sliders and SA keys.

Seems like it would be possible, but I wonder what topre with SA would feel like, and if the Hasu controller works with silent boards.

Should all be possible. So long as you have the correct size caps for whatever SA set you want to put on it.

Some people think SA is too heavy for topre then others think SA and topre are glorious. Quite a few people have done similar mods here and on r/mk.

The pro2 and type-s are identical as far as the controller is concerned.

[tofgerl]

Excellent, thanks.
I can see what you mean with the SA weight. I guess I should try it first, if I find a way to do so...
It's a huge cost for a single keyboard, after all.

[CPTBadAss]

Is this possible? If so, it might be my endgame...

HHKB2 Silent with Hasu controller and SpaceFN, MX sliders and SA keys.

Seems like it would be possible, but I wonder what topre with SA would feel like, and if the Hasu controller works with silent boards.

Definitely possible. Nothing there would lead me to believe it couldn't work.

Does someone know where 6u wires for Cherry stabs can be sourced?

IIRC MK.com had accidently ordered a bunch of 6u stabilizers a while back. They might still have them. Otherwise, I'd try and find an old Cherry board with that stabilizer setup as I don't think the other sources will have 6u. I think Mouser had 8u at one point.

[ideus]

Does someone know where 6u wires for Cherry stabs can be sourced?

While I was planning to bend some wires myself, Sir Infinity came to the rescue an offered an authentic Cherry 6u wire sample that will make my own bending reliable. In case some one wonders, the DT Wiki has very good information on many of the different space bars and their holding positions, it was what I was planning to use as a reference, but now with the sample it would be far easier.

[tofgerl]

What I need to do is rent a Type-S with MX sliders to test the feel...

Is that something one does? Like if I pay full price to someone, and then when I send it back, they pay me back all minus a fee?