Author Topic: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7  (Read 3605 times)

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Offline BunnyBunder

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Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« on: Mon, 02 May 2022, 15:35:43 »
Hello everyone,

It's second time modding a keyboard and it went wrong this time...

The plan was to change the switchs on my Ducky Shine 7 with holy pandas. So I desolder everything and solder the new ones. Problem, I lifted pads in the process.





Now I'm stuck with two columns and one other key not working.

I was looking to do a bridge for "<" with an other key but haven't had any success as it's not registering the right key being pressed.

I may be wrong but I was thinking "<" is connected with the columns and the microcontroller directly.

I did my research and fond one thread https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=101608.0 where a guy had similar problem but never gave the solution.

Also checked every connection on the column and found nothing.



Can someone gave me a hand on this one ? (I don't want to risk shorting something as I'm not confident in what I'm doing.)

Offline nevin

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Re: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« Reply #1 on: Mon, 02 May 2022, 16:45:04 »
use a multimeter to test continuity. look for a common connection & make the bridge.
sometimes it's as simple as bridging to the other pad if the switch has multiple positions.

other than the closeup it's hard to tell where the problem switches are. (images are pretty small)

see the attached images & notes. see if this helps / makes sense.
285849-0
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Offline BunnyBunder

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Re: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« Reply #2 on: Mon, 02 May 2022, 18:41:39 »
I did that but nothing seems to work.

Since the pad is dead I can't directly check for continuity, so I used a wire to see if there is a bridge that activate my key. It's pressing Caps, CTRL, ALT and X but not "<".
 
Here is a close up of the area :



And what I tested so far:





Offline butre

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Re: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« Reply #3 on: Mon, 02 May 2022, 21:01:28 »
see the trace coming off the bad pad?  sand some solder resist off it and just connect the trace.

attached is a repair I made on a similar issue some time ago285853-0
« Last Edit: Mon, 02 May 2022, 21:12:08 by butre »

Offline nevin

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Re: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« Reply #4 on: Mon, 02 May 2022, 21:46:27 »
for this lifted pad. you could do it like bute above.
just follow the trace & scrape enough of the solder mask to be able to make a solder connection. then solder a wire to connect the leg of the switch to the via in the circle.

285855-0

i usually like to go from pad to pad but it can be hard to figure out sometimes. manufacturers don't always follow our standard practices as far as designing the key matrix. (sometimes they do some really funky things)

let me look at the other pics & see if i can find where you're having issues.
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Offline nevin

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Re: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« Reply #5 on: Mon, 02 May 2022, 22:37:37 »
truthfully, i can't tell what they did with this pcb.
it looks like the yellow rows are mostly in pairs, maybe jumping with a via? or something like a crushed paper matrix?
looks like most of the column diodes jump to the other side of the board with a via?
i've highlighted most of the traces i can see. hopefully this helps you see how some of it is connected. added some notes as well to the picture.
285859-0

without having it in front of me & being able to continuity trace how it's wired, my best suggestion would be to expose part of the trace you can tell is connected to the lifted pad & put the bridge there.
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Offline BunnyBunder

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Re: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« Reply #6 on: Tue, 03 May 2022, 07:49:23 »
Here is the result so far.

I gently removed the solder mask to expose the trace and started to see that it wasen't damaged as I thought. To be sure I exposed the trace before the Via and suprise, there was continuity.



After that, I just resoldered the switch and checked again for continuity just to be sure.
I also redid the questionable joints you mentioned in the picture above.



Since this was a dead end, I don't know where to look.
If it's possible I would like to avoid unsolder everything to see the trace in front of the board as I could damage it even more... But soon I will not have any other choice.

Offline nevin

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Re: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« Reply #7 on: Tue, 03 May 2022, 08:42:48 »
looks much better.
so that fixed the "<" correct?

the other ones are column related. and i wouldn't be surprised if that is wired as one column.

@suicidal_orange can you please lend your eyes & experience with ducky boards. i don't know what's typical for ducky and bunny has 2 columns out (or it might be one column depending on how the matrix is wired) after soldering in new switches. i'm a little lost trying to visually trace the board by the pictures. there's a lot that doesn't make sense compared to what i'm used to. diodes backwards, strange row wiring, etc. any thoughts/assistance would be greatly appreciated.
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Offline BunnyBunder

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Re: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« Reply #8 on: Tue, 03 May 2022, 09:35:13 »
so that fixed the "<" correct?

no, sadly "<" is still not working

Thank you guys for helping me

Offline nevin

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Re: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« Reply #9 on: Tue, 03 May 2022, 09:41:36 »
if the yellow trace rings, switch leg to diode and the other leg of switch rings to the blue trace, it should be working.
(by "ring" i mean it has continuity, makes connection)
285880-0
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Offline suicidal_orange

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Re: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« Reply #10 on: Tue, 03 May 2022, 11:03:58 »
Looks a lot like the Shine 6 matrix - what does it type if you touch a wire from the right pin of Escape to the diode on < ?

The broken column is a problem because it is the entire column, meaning the switch pad you damaged is the one that links back to the controller chip - just like on the thread you helpfully linked.  You could take out your G switch and have a look on the other side and there's a good chance you will find a trace heading off towards the middle of the board, you would need to scrape it then check for continuity to the controller chip.  Is it the same Holtek HT32F1653/1654 as in the other thread?  If so it will connect to one of the green pins, probably near the one from the next door column on the Shine 6 which was 3rd from bottom on the right.

If it's a different chip don't start poking it, we'll need to find the datasheet :)
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Offline BunnyBunder

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Re: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« Reply #11 on: Tue, 03 May 2022, 16:55:30 »
@nevin: I didn't quite get what you wanted me to test, so I checked continuity from every points with the switch open and closed.



It should work but it isn't.

@suicidal_orange:
I touched a wire from the right pin of Escape to the diode on < and it fire Ctrl and Alt at the same time.

It is the same Holtek HT32F1653 as in the other threadz:


I desoldered G and the two other switch to identify the trace but I did a bad job and butchered the pads and broke an LED  :'(

It appers that the trace goes back on the other side.



I scratched it and it goes to this pin (PD0 in the picture):



Should I solder everything back together with some bridges or is there something else to check on the other side of the board ?

Offline suicidal_orange

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Re: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« Reply #12 on: Wed, 04 May 2022, 05:56:44 »
Same as the last guy, a handy via.  You don't really want to be trying to solder to the chip though one newbie did after a repair shop refuse to do it for him!

As the scratch goes to the controller all you need to do is solder a jumper from the switch to the scratch and one to the diode and G should work, you can test by touching a wire from the diode pin of R to the scratch which should type R.  You will probably need to solder a jumper from the pin attached to the trace on G and the non diode pin of F to reconnect the other switches in the column.  Or if that only fixes F another to R and/or V...

That just leaves the question of where did the crazy designer decide to put < this time.  Your blue line following the trace to a via looks to be heading for the main group of traces heading to the controller, but it can't continue at 45 degrees as there's another via right there and directly above is what looks to be the via that links A to the controller.  Though you didn't mark A as green or lavender(?) so maybe that is in a sane column with < and Q?  Diode pin of < to non diode of A would type < if it was, but I'm sure you've tried this.

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Offline BunnyBunder

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Re: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« Reply #13 on: Wed, 04 May 2022, 16:09:40 »
IT'S WORKING !!!

I tried the jumper from the switch "G" to the scratch going to the microcontroller and it worked. Aslo put a bridge with the group since the pad looked dead this time.



It solved the column problem but "<" was still not working.

So, this time, I tried with a long cable and checked EVERY OTHER SWITCH to see if I could find the right group.
And suprise, It wasn't A but F8. I mean, it's completly logic...



I put foam under the PCB after the reassembly (for sound), I think it's going to hold everything together tightly even without glue or flux.

Thank you guys for helping me during the process.
I will hold your community in high regards.

Offline nevin

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Re: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« Reply #14 on: Wed, 04 May 2022, 16:15:35 »
glad you got it figured out.

yeah, i was at a loss at to what "logic" they used when designing this one.

i understand matrix optimization to use the least pins possible but this is just crazy, makes no sense whatsoever.
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Offline suicidal_orange

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Re: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« Reply #15 on: Thu, 05 May 2022, 03:24:16 »
"<" was still not working.

So, this time, I tried with a long cable and checked EVERY OTHER SWITCH to see if I could find the right group.
And suprise, It wasn't A but F8. I mean, it's completly logic...
Escape seemed crazy on the Shine 6 but F8 is another level.  Glad you found it!

I was at a loss at to what "logic" they used when designing this one.
It's almost like they start with all the ANSI keys in the middle 4 rows (plus the arrows, just because...) and connect them in U shaped columns with alternating "rows" then tack on the F row and mods.  On the Shine 6 there's an option for split backspace and the inside key has it's own row, win_l ctrl_l alt_r win_r space alt_l are a column while ctrl_r is in with the U column above and FN (physically win_r) is connected to the arrows.  Not one "column" as there's space for in the matrix, not ctrl_r connected to the arrow next to it as would be easier.  If they were interested in saving pins the inside key of split backspace on the Shine 6 wouldn't have it's own row, and there wouldn't be 3 rows with only 3 F keys each for F4-F12 (Esc and the ISO key are in with F1-F3, obviously!)

There is no logic, I think it fits with the brand name
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Offline nevin

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Re: Need Help fixing my bad soldering on a Ducky Shine 7
« Reply #16 on: Thu, 05 May 2022, 03:40:12 »
holy cow, didn't know it was that crazy. yeah, definitely not a pin saver.

thanks again for jumping in and lending a hand.
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