Author Topic: Domo Caps [working thread] (Read 25490 times)

domoaligato · « **on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 12:13:09 »

mold max 25
https://www.farwestmaterials.com/component/virtuemart/mold-making-materials/mold-max-25-detail?Itemid=0

Crystal Clear 200
https://www.farwestmaterials.com/component/virtuemart/casting-materials/crystal-clear-200-detail?Itemid=0

So-Strong Tints
https://www.farwestmaterials.com/component/virtuemart/casting-materials/so-strong-tints-detail?Itemid=0

Ease Release 200
https://www.farwestmaterials.com/component/virtuemart/sealers-release-agents/ease-release-200-detail?Itemid=0

next to order:
vacuum chamber to de gas the materials prior to molding/casting
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5-Gallon-Vacuum-Chamber-and-CFM-Single-Stage-Pump-Degassing-Silicone-/321170742677?pt=BI_Pumps&hash=item4ac7449d95

Pressure pot.
http://www.artmolds.com/pressure-pot.html#

cheap air compressor for the pressure pot.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-8-gallon-125-psi-portable-air-compressor-67501.html

domoaligato · « **Reply #1 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 12:13:36 »

youtube resources that explain the process very well

Introduction to clear casting resin

How to use clear casting resin for encapsulations and casting

How to de gas silicone

Pressure casting resin

the entire smooth-on channel
https://www.youtube.com/user/SmoothOnInc/videos

smooth-on degassing

domoaligato · « **Reply #2 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 12:15:43 »

reserved

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #3 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 12:16:26 »

strong tints made me look twice....

and I was expecting to see one of these

but looking forward to see what awesome keyboard science will happen here

CPTBadAss · « **Reply #4 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 12:17:20 »

SO glad I didn't post as soon as I saw this so you could get your reserved threads. What designs are you looking to make?

I'm really excited for this project and all the new DIY cap projects ^__^

domoaligato · « **Reply #5 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 12:20:09 »

I have removed the head from this tf2 pyro figure and epoxied a cherry stem to the area where the neck would be.

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #6 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 12:21:50 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Tue, 06 August 2013, 12:20:09

I have removed the head from this tf2 pyro figure and epoxied a cherry stem to the area where the neck would be.

Show Image

That is WICKED!!!! :eek:

CPTBadAss · « **Reply #7 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 12:22:51 »

That was my favorite character in TF2 ^__^

domoaligato · « **Reply #8 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 12:24:18 »

that picture does not show the detail that is actually on the model's head. there are little ribbed lines across the eyes and it looks really good.

I am not going to waste my materials without a vacuum chamber and pressure pot so it will be a little bit before I have a prototype to show, but I wanted to open this thread as a build log.

Xenderwind · « **Reply #9 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 12:31:10 »

Pyro was my favorite when i was into flipping tf2 unusuals. I'm honestly kind of surprised that a vacuum chamber thing is that cheap, I would have assumed they were more expensive than that. Can't wait to see the end results

domoaligato · « **Reply #10 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 12:33:18 »

strong tints is also used to mix into clear resin to tint/color the resin.
testers model paint can also be used.

edit: like this
http://www.testors.com/products/136838

Binge · « **Reply #11 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 12:41:59 »

Domo, I'm totally interested in the degass and pressure chamber. How much is your hardware setup projected to cost?

So far I've been having a lot of luck with oomoo 30 silicon and 325 and 327 casting plastics, but getting rid of the small bubbles would be awesome.

domoaligato · « **Reply #12 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 13:24:23 »

the links above has the costs... totaling 554.98 (without shipping) with the air compressor for the pressure pot.
if you already have a air compressor then 434.99 (without shipping).

I did alot of research into if I should make my own or buy one pre-made.
I determined that it was cheaper to spend the $199.99 on the pre-made pressure pot then to make my own half assed one.

same goes for the vacuum chamber.

domoaligato · « **Reply #13 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 13:32:25 »

Quote from: Binge on Tue, 06 August 2013, 12:41:59

So far I've been having a lot of luck with oomoo 30 silicon and 325 and 327 casting plastics, but getting rid of the small bubbles would be awesome.

I emailed farwestmaterials (authorized smooth-on reseller) telling them what I wanted to do (great people!)

Quote from: me

which mold making solution(s) would you suggest for keyboard key caps?
I would like a mold that will last a very long time.

I would also like to cast in clear resin with a pressure pot to remove the bubble.
I was thinking smooth-on clear but I am unsure about the different numbers on the solutions.

thank you

Quote from: smooth-on

I would recommend either OOMOO 25 or Mold Max 25 because of their flexural properties.

As far as the casting materials, Smooth-On Crystal Clear plastic resin, the numbers go as follows:
Crystal Clear 200 can be used in castings that range from 1/2" up to a 3" thickness

I would take a look at the task series of urethane plastics they too might work for what you are trying accomplish.

I want to look at the task series but I think there website just went down lol.

domoaligato · « **Reply #14 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 13:33:50 »

I guess I can go to smooth-on for that until they fix the site.

http://www.smooth-on.com/Urethane-Plastic-a/c5_1120_1157/index.html

edit:
when I try solid's I think I will get some Task® 3
it is white instead of clear and is 80D hardness
also "Vacuum degassing is not necessary"

http://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/TASK_2_3_TB.pdf

"For Best Results . . . Best results are obtained using a pressure casting technique. After
pouring the mixed compound, the entire casting assembly (mold, dam structure, etc.) is
placed in a pressure chamber and subjected to 60 PSI (4.2 kg/cm2) air pressure for the full
cure time of the material"

from everything I have seen they say to cast at 60 psi but 40 psi is sufficient and is the standard that all the pressure pots support.

domoaligato · « **Reply #15 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 13:35:15 »

oh and this will help some people that do not understand shore hardness
http://www.smooth-on.com/pdf/durometer_with_logo.pdf

domoaligato · « **Reply #16 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 13:43:28 »

This thread is a brain dump. please excuse the frequency of my posts in here as I am not bumping. it is just me posting new info and sharing as I see appropriate and answering questions.

CPTBadAss · « **Reply #17 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 13:44:50 »

Dude....Do you mind if I add that shore durometer hardness chart link to my o-ring review? So people can better understand what it is?

domoaligato · « **Reply #18 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 14:09:24 »

Quote from: CPTBadAss on Tue, 06 August 2013, 13:44:50

Dude....Do you mind if I add that shore durometer hardness chart link to my o-ring review? So people can better understand what it is?

go ahead!

domoaligato · « **Reply #19 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 14:11:33 »

i went home for lunch and my stuff arrived. farwestmaterials is located in walla walla, wa so my stuff arrived next day.

domoaligato · « **Reply #20 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 14:14:41 »

so-strong colors sampler pack

Tarzan · « **Reply #21 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 14:15:46 »

I got some nice powdered colors from Kremer Pigments, but still working on getting molds right before casting anything. The pressure/vacuum pots look intriguing, I've seen folks online using paint pots for pressure vessels, but these seem to go for more than the pressure kettle versions.

Watching this thread with interest!

MOZ · « **Reply #22 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 15:59:04 »

~~Watched~~ Hooked

domoaligato · « **Reply #23 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 16:06:41 »

I know some of you already now this so you can ignore this.

my notes for the process

Wear a mask/glasses/gloves for all of this!

mold making
1. create box for the mold to go in.
2. place item in the box using clay to separate/divide the mold in 2 in a spots that will be easy to divide later.
3. place items like marbles/bolts into the clay to create keys for the mold to fit together.
4. use ease release to prevent the mold from sticking to the box/item/clay
5. mix the mold materials
6. place the mixed mold materials into the vacuum chamber to de gas them. it basically boils the material to get the air bubbles out. this will result in a smoother finish in the mold. between 28-30 hg. safely release the air pressure so that it doesn't explode everywhere.
7. pour mold materials into the mold box at one corner until it is a appropriate level above the item.
8. tap the sides of the box to ensure the mold has reached all the areas of the item it is supposed to.
9. wait for the mold to cure.
10. remove the mold from the mold box being careful to not destroy the box.
11. flip the mold upside down so the clay is facing up.
12. carefully remove the clay from the mold. do not remove the item from the mold!
13. remove the marbles/bolts from the mold.
14. create a pour spout and as many air holes as needed with clay and put it in this side of the mold. you will end up with 2 pieces of extra material that you will have to trim off later so make sure they are in a area that is not noticeable or easy to sand/trim later.
15. follow steps 4,5,6,6,8,9 above to complete the second half of the mold.
16. gently separate the mold and use a exacto blade if needed to slice the halfs where the ease release did not prevent the mold pieces from sticking together.
17. remove the master item and clay pieces from the mold.

casting.
1. spray the mold pieces on the inside with ease release and brush in the pieces to ensure coverage.
2. use electrical tape to tape the two mold pieces together.
3. mix the casting materials and ALWAYS ADD COLOR TO PART B FIRST.
4. de gas the materials as stated above.
5. pour the casting material into the pour spout. you may need to tap the sides of the mold to ensure that the casting material has made it to every part of the inside of your mold.
6. place the mold box into the pressure pot and pressurize to 50 psi
7. let it cure overnight.
8. release the pressure from the pressure pot slowly and safely
9. carefully separate the mold and remove your new item.
10. trim any excess material from the item using a exacto blade and/or sand with a dremel tool.

domoaligato · « **Reply #24 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 16:38:54 »

Is this overkill?

http://www.amazon.com/Israeli-Civilian-Mask-Nato-Filter/dp/B0002XJ2OU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1375825070&sr=1-4

vun · « **Reply #25 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 16:41:52 »

Never overkill, protects both your eyes and lungs while making you look badass. Win win win situation.

MOZ · « **Reply #26 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 17:06:53 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Tue, 06 August 2013, 16:38:54

Is this overkill?

Show Image

http://www.amazon.com/Israeli-Civilian-Mask-Nato-Filter/dp/B0002XJ2OU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1375825070&sr=1-4

No!

Binge · « **Reply #27 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 17:16:18 »

So they recommend to degas the casting plastics? Interesting

domoaligato · « **Reply #28 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 17:45:45 »

Quote from: Binge on Tue, 06 August 2013, 17:16:18

So they recommend to degas the casting plastics? Interesting

edit: some say required and some say not required. but they all basically say for best results they recommend it.

domoaligato · « **Reply #29 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 20:47:37 »

i had to move the stem....

bueller · « **Reply #30 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 22:05:59 »

Interesting, I might have to look at converting a spray paint pressure pot for this! One of my mates is a master sculptor as well so he can probably help me knock together some awesome stuff.

domoaligato · « **Reply #31 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 22:20:10 »

Quote from: bueller on Tue, 06 August 2013, 22:05:59

Interesting, I might have to look at converting a spray paint pressure pot for this! One of my mates is a master sculptor as well so he can probably help me knock together some awesome stuff.

there is a few youtube videos with instructions already to do this.

and

domoaligato · « **Reply #32 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 22:24:33 »

I totally believe that if we are going to post in "making stuff together", we should be making stuff together.
I will be sharing as much info as I can.

domoaligato · « **Reply #33 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 22:36:14 »

this is a amazing series of videos.

this one is about pour spouts and mold boxes with legos

bueller · « **Reply #34 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 23:00:20 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Tue, 06 August 2013, 22:24:33

I totally believe that if we are going to post in "making stuff together", we should be making stuff together.
I will be sharing as much info as I can.

Good man

That's what I love about this place, I've only been a member since March but I've already had so much help from people. My friends and family think I'm insane but there's something pretty awesome about typing on something you've built with your own two hands

domoaligato · « **Reply #35 on:** Tue, 06 August 2013, 23:00:48 »

the more I watch the more I think I might skip the vacuum chamber and try without it.

edit: I am going to just get a pressure pot and see what happens.

Tarzan · « **Reply #36 on:** Wed, 07 August 2013, 07:22:24 »

Quote from: mohitgarg on Tue, 06 August 2013, 15:59:04

~~Watched~~ Hooked

Heh! Indeed!

Yesterday I ordered 1-kilo kits of Quantum Silicones QM 262, and QM 270. Looks like I'm started down another wallet-paining sidepath.

domoaligato · « **Reply #37 on:** Wed, 07 August 2013, 07:51:12 »

I have ordered and received trial packages so that if I do not like a product I am not out to much money.

Tarzan · « **Reply #38 on:** Wed, 07 August 2013, 10:14:48 »

I was planning to order some Innovative Polymers IE-3075, or TP-4052 (high impact rating). These are translucent, not water-clear, but I plan on coloring them anyway.

Anyone have experience ordering from http://www.innovative-polymers.com?

domoaligato · « **Reply #39 on:** Wed, 07 August 2013, 11:09:30 »

Quote from: Greystoke on Wed, 07 August 2013, 10:14:48

I was planning to order some Innovative Polymers IE-3075, or TP-4052 (high impact rating). These are translucent, not water-clear, but I plan on coloring them anyway.

Anyone have experience ordering from http://www.innovative-polymers.com?

I would buy from smooth-on directly unless your looking for something that do not have.
they are in Easton, Pennsylvania so the shipping should be cheap and as a added bonus there products are $2.00 cheaper directly then farwestmaterials.com that I ordered from.

I ordered from farwestmaterials.com because they are instate and I received my stuff the next day.

Tarzan · « **Reply #40 on:** Wed, 07 August 2013, 11:17:44 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Wed, 07 August 2013, 11:09:30

Quote from: Greystoke on Wed, 07 August 2013, 10:14:48
I was planning to order some Innovative Polymers IE-3075, or TP-4052 (high impact rating). These are translucent, not water-clear, but I plan on coloring them anyway.

Anyone have experience ordering from http://www.innovative-polymers.com?

I would buy from smooth-on directly unless your looking for something that do not have.
they are in Easton, Pennsylvania so the shipping should be cheap and as a added bonus there products are $2.00 cheaper directly then farwestmaterials.com that I ordered from.

I ordered from farwestmaterials.com because they are instate and I received my stuff the next day.

Thanks for the tip! I'm in Virginia, so shipping from Pennsylvania should be painless.

Tarzan · « **Reply #41 on:** Wed, 07 August 2013, 14:40:40 »

I checked out my local Harbor Freight store over lunch, and they have those 2.5 gallon pressurized paint pots in stock. $100, or $75 if you spend $30 for a year's membership in their customer loyalty program.

Might be worth it if there was enough other stuff on sale to recoup the program cost.

Didn't buy the paint pot, still figuring out what all I want to invest in. Plus, the thing was so shoddily built it was appalling; ports and bungs were welded at weird angles, gauge and regulator were loose in the pot; didn't inspire much confidence.

Also checked out air compressors while I was there, and they do have some cheap ones ($60-$90), but I think I'll scrounge a name brand off of Craigslist instead. The hunt continues...

domoaligato · « **Reply #42 on:** Wed, 07 August 2013, 15:01:57 »

that is why i linked that one for 199.99

by the time you add the parts to convert the harbor freight one you have spent 200 already.

edit: I guess it depends on the exact parts you get from harbor freight but I am going to get the 199.99 one as it looks like a little better quality.

domoaligato · « **Reply #43 on:** Wed, 07 August 2013, 21:52:09 »

stem attached to the master and modified to fit in any switch rotation.

nubbinator · « **Reply #44 on:** Wed, 07 August 2013, 22:40:15 »

Love it. Wish it had the more traditional base, but looks awesome.

MOZ · « **Reply #45 on:** Thu, 08 August 2013, 05:04:02 »

Looks great!

domoaligato · « **Reply #46 on:** Thu, 08 August 2013, 07:26:21 »

Quote from: nubbinator on Wed, 07 August 2013, 22:40:15

Love it. Wish it had the more traditional base, but looks awesome.

this may be in a poll soon.

MKULTRA · « **Reply #47 on:** Thu, 08 August 2013, 07:41:03 »

Following this thread... May we have learned the secrets of the Clack Factory gnomes?

CPTBadAss · « **Reply #48 on:** Thu, 08 August 2013, 07:43:01 »

Yo....that pyro head looks incredible. IT'S SO SMOOTH!

domoaligato · « **Reply #49 on:** Thu, 08 August 2013, 07:45:45 »

I am sure that experience is how you get to the level mister click clack is at.
I love his work and he has perfected his craft.

Batmann · « **Reply #50 on:** Thu, 08 August 2013, 08:49:38 »

great job Domo
and thanks for those links.
I watched most of these videos few months back but pressure pots here in France are crazy expensive and Harbour freight didn't answer my multiple requests.
I believe that once you have all the tooling you can produce high quality custom caps.
I'll follow this thread closely

Binge · « **Reply #51 on:** Thu, 08 August 2013, 09:22:39 »

Quote from: CPTBadAss on Thu, 08 August 2013, 07:43:01

Yo....that pyro head looks incredible. IT'S SO SMOOTH!

I really hope his casts come out as smooth

domoaligato · « **Reply #52 on:** Thu, 08 August 2013, 13:00:44 »

Quote from: Binge on Thu, 08 August 2013, 09:22:39

Quote from: CPTBadAss on Thu, 08 August 2013, 07:43:01
Yo....that pyro head looks incredible. IT'S SO SMOOTH!

I really hope his casts come out as smooth

+1

domoaligato · « **Reply #53 on:** Thu, 08 August 2013, 16:19:46 »

I think I found a site like ours for resin casting
http://www.resinaddict.com/forum/index.php

our site is the holy grail of keyboard info
there's is the holy grail of resin casting!

mkawa · « **Reply #54 on:** Thu, 08 August 2013, 17:11:44 »

Quote from: SpAmRaY on Tue, 06 August 2013, 12:16:26

strong tints made me look twice....

and I was expecting to see one of these

(Attachment Link)

but looking forward to see what awesome keyboard science will happen here

me too and want!!!

anyway this looks like low pressure molding. my understanding is that casting happens at atm. it's just a terminology thing though. i think it's about time that we have a good thread on thermosets and molding. the only thing i would change is to use this super awesome quiet compressor instead of the HF one: http://www.amazon.com/GMC-SYCLONE-Ultra-Oil-Free-Compressor/dp/B0038MWDXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375999813&sr=8-1&keywords=quiet+compressor

you really don't need much vacuum, frankly, so it should be plenty sufficient. the HF compressors mostly work but oh my crap they are loud.

mkawa · « **Reply #55 on:** Thu, 08 August 2013, 17:19:42 »

that gasmask master looks great btw. also, something to think about is wax sprues.

domoaligato · « **Reply #56 on:** Thu, 08 August 2013, 17:22:06 »

I have been lurking that resinaddict site all afternoon and it is a back and forth between to vacuum or not to vacuum. but they all use pressure pots.

It looks like that is a must....

thanks for the link mkawa!

domoaligato · « **Reply #57 on:** Thu, 08 August 2013, 17:23:13 »

Quote from: mkawa on Thu, 08 August 2013, 17:19:42

that gasmask master looks great btw. also, something to think about is wax sprues.

I am going to try toothpicks like this guy....

rurushu · « **Reply #58 on:** Sat, 10 August 2013, 14:24:17 »

wow domoaligato, your pyro (not sure the name, never played TF2) keycap is awesome!!!!

domoaligato · « **Reply #59 on:** Sat, 10 August 2013, 22:47:10 »

I have made a harbor freight pressure pot and I have poured my mould.
It should be ready tomorrow to start casting.

MOZ · « **Reply #60 on:** Sun, 11 August 2013, 04:13:43 »

Excited!

domoaligato · « **Reply #61 on:** Sun, 11 August 2013, 20:51:50 »

So I poured/injected my first cast about 6 hours ago.... To be continued....

domoaligato · « **Reply #62 on:** Sun, 11 August 2013, 20:53:56 »

oh and for people wondering exactly what shore hardness is other then the diagram on the last page...

http://www.astm.org/Standards/D2240.htm

bueller · « **Reply #63 on:** Sun, 11 August 2013, 21:41:15 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Sun, 11 August 2013, 20:51:50

So I poured/injected my first cast about 6 hours ago.... To be continued....

Yeah baby, we want more hot resin injections!!!

Binge · « **Reply #64 on:** Mon, 12 August 2013, 12:00:48 »

Domo. I've been looking into vacuum systems to degas rubbers/plastics. Have you found anything on allowing the plastics to cure in a mold under a vacuum?

Tarzan · « **Reply #65 on:** Mon, 12 August 2013, 12:22:06 »

Quote from: Binge on Mon, 12 August 2013, 12:00:48

Domo. I've been looking into vacuum systems to degas rubbers/plastics. Have you found anything on allowing the plastics to cure in a mold under a vacuum?

Not to step on Domo's response, but the videos I've watched all seem to show vacuum being used to degas the molds (sometimes the resin itself), and then the actual casting is done under pressure.

There is a process for vacuum casting, to draw materials into a complex mold, but I haven't seen much information on those options.

The Guerrilla guide to CNC machining, mold making, and resin casting recommends using a vacuum chamber for most casting work, and only suggests a pressure chamber in some cases - rather the reverse of the home casting videos I've seen.

http://lcamtuf.coredump.cx/gcnc/ch4/ (How do you link a URL to text, again?)

Quote

4.2.1. Vacuum pump and chamber

Insufficient mixing may cause a range of problems with finished parts - but vigorous stirring will almost always introduce some air into the resin. This problem aside, bubbles of air may get trapped inside mold crevices as you pour the mixture in - even if your mixing skills are beyond reproach. Last but not least, some resins may simply liberate some amount of dissolved gases once the polymerization reaction begins; IE-3075 is an example of that. Vacuum degassing solves all these problems, and is not as scary as it may sound.

Quote

4.2.5. Optional: pressure pot

There are some complex, multi-part molds where it may be hard to consistently avoid air entrapment, even with the aid of vacuum; on top of that, there are some resins that tend to be difficult to fully degas, or that will develop bubbles of carbon dioxide when not mixed perfectly well, or when exposed to residual humidity. That latter set of problems is particularly evident in mercury-free water clear poulyrethanes, such as the vanilla version of Innovative Polymers OC-7086 (TD 283-18 is much more forgiving).

To improve your odds when dealing with such tricky cases, it helps to have a pressure pot; the idea is to increase ambient pressure surrounding the mold to about 3-4 bar, thus crushing and dissolving back any existing bubbles, and discouraging the formation of new ones. Sure, it's a brute-force solution - but can you argue with its results?

Pressure casting equipment is more bulky, more expensive, and somewhat more dangerous than vacuum pumps (due to much higher pressure differentials) - and for most part, isn't necessary; get it only if you have plenty of room, and you are either forced to work with water clear resins that don't tolerate non-pressurized casting, or you are willing to spend at least $200 to improve your yields a tiny bit (say, from 85% to 97%).

Binge · « **Reply #66 on:** Mon, 12 August 2013, 12:37:41 »

See, I am quite afraid of using high pressure systems in my home. I just don't have the security of having the right spot for something like that. I will be able to use a vacuum system however

Tarzan · « **Reply #67 on:** Mon, 12 August 2013, 13:21:15 »

Quote from: Binge on Mon, 12 August 2013, 12:37:41

See, I am quite afraid of using high pressure systems in my home. I just don't have the security of having the right spot for something like that. I will be able to use a vacuum system however

Pressure systems do seem to be recommended for water-clear resins, to make sure any trapped air bubbles are microscopic. I'm planning on tinting all my castings anyway, so my first setup will be vacuum.

Although I do have several pressure cookers and canning kettles in storage.... Hmmm. $:-\$

domoaligato · « **Reply #68 on:** Mon, 12 August 2013, 13:31:31 »

Quote from: Binge on Mon, 12 August 2013, 12:00:48

Domo. I've been looking into vacuum systems to degas rubbers/plastics. Have you found anything on allowing the plastics to cure in a mold under a vacuum?

yes and no.

you do not want to cure under a vacuum when the resin rises it will rise out of the mold.
when it falls you will have a huge mess to cleanup

domoaligato · « **Reply #69 on:** Mon, 12 August 2013, 13:36:19 »

ok so the results....

good and bad....

I will start with the bad.

1. shake the containers for part a and part b before you weight them. also stir them before you mix them to ensure that they are ready to go.

2. do not overdo the tint. I used just a little bit of purple on the end of a toothpick. too much....

This has resulted in a cast that is sticky and has not fully cured. I am not sure which one it is or a combination of both but my next attempt will be with only the clear resin and no tint to rule that out.

Good.
Pressure casting has ensured that I had 0 (zero) air bubbles in my cast. it is perfect except for the sticky/soft cast. I am going to let the first attempt sit for about 4-5 days as I have read that it may take eventually harden and to let it sit.

domoaligato · « **Reply #70 on:** Mon, 12 August 2013, 13:37:52 »

oh and I used 60 psi on the mold and 60 psi on the cast. this ensured that I have a mold with a nice smooth finish and less cloudyness on the cast do to the texture.

Tarzan · « **Reply #71 on:** Mon, 12 August 2013, 13:40:10 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Mon, 12 August 2013, 13:36:19

ok so the results....

good and bad....

I will start with the bad.
1. shake the containers for part a and part b before you weight them. also stir them before you mix them to ensure that they are ready to go.

2. do not overdo the tint. I used just a little bit of purple on the end of a toothpick. too much....

This has resulted in a cast that is sticky and has not fully cured. I am not sure which one it is or a combination of both but my next attempt will be with only the clear resin and no tint to rule that out.

Good.
Pressure casting has ensured that I had 0 (zero) air bubbles in my cast. it is perfect except for the sticky/soft cast. I am going to let the first attempt sit for about 4-5 days as I have read that it may take eventually harden and to let it sit.

Good to hear the pressure casting worked! There's a nice air compressor for sale in my area on Craigslist, been eying it and wondering if I really need it.

On the sticky casting, I hope it does cure in a few days. I have one attempted mold in my garage that's still tacky, and it's been there since April.

No idea what I did wrong, I thought I had equal proportions of the part A and part B, but there you go.

domoaligato · « **Reply #72 on:** Mon, 12 August 2013, 13:44:58 »

did you make sure that your part a and part were shaken first?

also instead of dipping a toothpick and going straight to part b.... next time (not this next attempt) I will dip the toothpick and then wipe that on a piece of paper. then take a second toothpick and wipe it across the little line that I wrote with the first toothpick.

smooth-on named it strong tints correctly

Tarzan · « **Reply #73 on:** Mon, 12 August 2013, 14:06:36 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Mon, 12 August 2013, 13:44:58

did you make sure that your part a and part were shaken first?

also instead of dipping a toothpick and going straight to part b.... next time (not this next attempt) I will dip the toothpick and then wipe that on a piece of paper. then take a second toothpick and wipe it across the little line that I wrote with the first toothpick.

smooth-on named it strong tints correctly

I don't think I shook them at all, just some stirring. Going to try making a different mold - platinum catalyzed latex (?) - then try the casting again.

Binge · « **Reply #74 on:** Mon, 12 August 2013, 14:49:54 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Mon, 12 August 2013, 13:36:19

ok so the results....

good and bad....

I will start with the bad.
1. shake the containers for part a and part b before you weight them. also stir them before you mix them to ensure that they are ready to go.

2. do not overdo the tint. I used just a little bit of purple on the end of a toothpick. too much....

This has resulted in a cast that is sticky and has not fully cured. I am not sure which one it is or a combination of both but my next attempt will be with only the clear resin and no tint to rule that out.

Good.
Pressure casting has ensured that I had 0 (zero) air bubbles in my cast. it is perfect except for the sticky/soft cast. I am going to let the first attempt sit for about 4-5 days as I have read that it may take eventually harden and to let it sit.

be careful with those sticky casts in gauging your results! All of my sticky-casts have 0 bubbles

I'll take a picture when I get home... but they never harden. They just stay mooshy. If it is not hardening it means that it was not mixed correctly and/or there was too much moisture introduced into the casting. This can come from the pigment and any moisture left in your silicon mold.

P.S. never cast urethane resins on a rainy/humid day. wtf mate D: I am disliking this aspect of resins.

Grim Fandango · « **Reply #75 on:** Mon, 12 August 2013, 15:05:03 »

Awesome

n0rvig · « **Reply #76 on:** Mon, 12 August 2013, 15:05:14 »

Wow, I had no idea all this stuff existed. Neato. Looks awesome so far.

domoaligato · « **Reply #77 on:** Mon, 12 August 2013, 15:07:24 »

I am sure it is from the pigment. I will try again without the pigment tonight and try try again.

domoaligato · « **Reply #78 on:** Mon, 12 August 2013, 15:09:08 »

later I want to try something like this.

but I thought that starting with the pyro would spark more interest.

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #79 on:** Mon, 12 August 2013, 15:11:30 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Mon, 12 August 2013, 15:09:08

later I want to try something like this.

but I thought that starting with the pyro would spark more interest.

Show Image

^^ take my money!!!

rurushu · « **Reply #80 on:** Tue, 13 August 2013, 01:31:09 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Mon, 12 August 2013, 15:09:08

later I want to try something like this.

but I thought that starting with the pyro would spark more interest.

Show Image

when i first come across your thread, the first thing that comes into my mind is Domo-kun, and not Domoaligato's Domo, ^^'''
what would you like to do with Domo-kun? Raised on the caps? :D
cant wait to see your pyro's result! :thumb:

Batmann · « **Reply #81 on:** Tue, 13 August 2013, 03:07:50 »

Quote from: Greystoke on Mon, 12 August 2013, 13:21:15

Although I do have several pressure cookers and canning kettles in storage.... Hmmm. $:-\$

Don't even think of it Greystoke, a pressure cooker won't support more than 15 psi.
If you try 60 psi it can simply blow your head, no joke (I've been there except that my head is still attached, luckily).
The safest/cheapest option is the harbour freight pressure pot.

domoaligato · « **Reply #82 on:** Tue, 13 August 2013, 09:24:36 »

Domo-kun in a style like boost's super hero's he doesn't make anymore.

mkawa · « **Reply #83 on:** Tue, 13 August 2013, 09:25:27 »

Quote from: Batmann on Tue, 13 August 2013, 03:07:50

Quote from: Greystoke on Mon, 12 August 2013, 13:21:15
Although I do have several pressure cookers and canning kettles in storage.... Hmmm. $:-\$

Don't even think of it Greystoke, a pressure cooker won't support more than 15 psi.
If you try 60 psi it can simply blow your head, no joke (I've been there except that my head is still attached, luckily).
The safest/cheapest option is the harbour freight pressure pot.

i would not eff around with harbor freight for a pressure pot. get something high quality. your life is worth it.

Tarzan · « **Reply #84 on:** Tue, 13 August 2013, 10:57:54 »

Quote from: mkawa on Tue, 13 August 2013, 09:25:27

Quote from: Batmann on Tue, 13 August 2013, 03:07:50
Quote from: Greystoke on Mon, 12 August 2013, 13:21:15
Although I do have several pressure cookers and canning kettles in storage.... Hmmm. $:-\$

Don't even think of it Greystoke, a pressure cooker won't support more than 15 psi.
If you try 60 psi it can simply blow your head, no joke (I've been there except that my head is still attached, luckily).
The safest/cheapest option is the harbour freight pressure pot.

i would not eff around with harbor freight for a pressure pot. get something high quality. your life is worth it.

I hear you on the Harbor Freight quality - or lack thereof - just haven't found much else that looks like it's of decent quality and doesn't also cost $500. Name brands like Binks, Devilbiss, or Graco all seem to be north of $800 new, and even beat-to-crap units on eBay still go for several hundred. The HF unit is $99, which is hard to pass up.

Still evaluating options, if anyone has recommendations I'm glad to hear them!

bueller · « **Reply #85 on:** Tue, 13 August 2013, 11:20:45 »

Quote from: Greystoke on Tue, 13 August 2013, 10:57:54

Quote from: mkawa on Tue, 13 August 2013, 09:25:27
Quote from: Batmann on Tue, 13 August 2013, 03:07:50
Quote from: Greystoke on Mon, 12 August 2013, 13:21:15
Although I do have several pressure cookers and canning kettles in storage.... Hmmm. $:-\$

Don't even think of it Greystoke, a pressure cooker won't support more than 15 psi.
If you try 60 psi it can simply blow your head, no joke (I've been there except that my head is still attached, luckily).
The safest/cheapest option is the harbour freight pressure pot.

i would not eff around with harbor freight for a pressure pot. get something high quality. your life is worth it.

I hear you on the Harbor Freight quality - or lack thereof - just haven't found much else that looks like it's of decent quality and doesn't also cost $500. Name brands like Binks, Devilbiss, or Graco all seem to be north of $800 new, and even beat-to-crap units on eBay still go for several hundred. The HF unit is $99, which is hard to pass up.

Still evaluating options, if anyone has recommendations I'm glad to hear them!

Shop around for a paint pot that's rated to 60psi, I know the ones sold locally in Australia will so that.

Binge · « **Reply #86 on:** Tue, 13 August 2013, 11:37:23 »

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=pressure+paint+pot&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=22680825690&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1737192564765464642&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_5yi0ahzvyo_e

^ pressure paint pot 5x fast

Binge · « **Reply #87 on:** Tue, 13 August 2013, 12:02:10 »

I just got this response from a seller in regards to a vacuum chamber.

Quote

Hi: Sounds like a good project. I would say you need to degas the part while it is in the mould. The other issue is the pigment. What I have found is using to much will cause the Urethane to bubble. I believe it is the solvents in the pigment being effected by the curing heat but it may just be the pigment I use. The 3 Gallon is 9.75 inches inside but the pot does taper at the bottom about a 1/4 inch. Is this large enough to fit your mould? Phil

This pot costs $130-ish

Tarzan · « **Reply #88 on:** Tue, 13 August 2013, 12:05:43 »

Quote from: Binge on Tue, 13 August 2013, 11:37:23

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=pressure+paint+pot&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=22680825690&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1737192564765464642&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_5yi0ahzvyo_e

^ pressure paint pot 5x fast

Thanks! I hadn't actually thought to look at Amazon, even though I am a Prime subscriber...

Most of the pressure pots listed, though, are only rated to 45 PSI, despite the notes from people pressurizing them above this level. And I'll be honest, I've never heard of most of these brand names! How about a good quality, made in America, over-built piece of industrial equipment? Or do I have to pay $800 for that?

Binge · « **Reply #89 on:** Tue, 13 August 2013, 12:24:15 »

http://www.amazon.com/California-Air-Tools-365-Pressure/dp/B008FQFW7W/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_8

rated to 80 PSI from a notable company in california

domoaligato · « **Reply #90 on:** Tue, 13 August 2013, 12:31:22 »

In my few days with the hb one.... the seal sucks ass and the safety valve kicks in randomly if you flow air in to fast.

I will be replacing the safety relief with a better one and applying silcone as a gasket instead of the rubber one it came with.

Spend the money tovget a better one.

Tarzan · « **Reply #91 on:** Tue, 13 August 2013, 12:49:43 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Tue, 13 August 2013, 12:31:22

In my few days with the hb one.... the seal sucks ass and the safety valve kicks in randomly if you flow air in to fast.

I will be replacing the safety relief with a better one and applying silcone as a gasket instead of the rubber one it came with.

Spend the money tovget a better one.

\

Thanks for taking one for the team, as it were, and testing out the HF unit! Sorry to hear it's such a PITA, I'm definitely casting elsewhere for a pressure vessel.

domoaligato · « **Reply #92 on:** Tue, 13 August 2013, 13:37:47 »

Have you looked at resinaddict? They have reviews on most of the equipment.

Tarzan · « **Reply #93 on:** Wed, 14 August 2013, 08:44:13 »

My search for a pressure pot is over. Saw a used unit on Craigslist yesterday, drove 100km after work to view it, and liked what I saw.

Meets all my criteria; made in US, high-pressure capable (110#), in reasonable condition, and large capacity. Okay, I had no idea how large a five gallon paint pot was, it's freakishly huge, but I figure I can always fill it half full of sand or something to reduce the working capacity.

Built in 1943 by the Pressed Steel Tank Company. More pics once I get it cleaned up - also going to remove the paint stirring mechanism, replace the gasket and pressure valves, etc. Yeah, I'll probably cost me a couple of hundred once it's done, but it was only $50 in current condition.

domoaligato · « **Reply #94 on:** Wed, 14 August 2013, 11:57:31 »

what I have seen a lot of people do is put a bunch of bricks in the bottom and put a circle cut piece of plywood on top.

sand may retain moisture and ruin your cast/mold. it may also blow up on your cast/mold when you fill the pot with air.

Tarzan · « **Reply #95 on:** Wed, 14 August 2013, 13:10:23 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Wed, 14 August 2013, 11:57:31

what I have seen a lot of people do is put a bunch of bricks in the bottom and put a circle cut piece of plywood on top.

sand may retain moisture and ruin your cast/mold. it may also blow up on your cast/mold when you fill the pot with air.

That's true, good points! I also realized after I posted that sand is absolutely full of air pockets, so I'd be better off going with rocks or bricks, as you've suggested.

Got it the garage now, cleaning in progress...

domoaligato · « **Reply #96 on:** Wed, 14 August 2013, 15:23:01 »

nice. I am interested in how the lid is designed on this model.

domoaligato · « **Reply #97 on:** Wed, 14 August 2013, 15:35:17 »

ok attempt #3 is crap. I am not sure if it is not hardening all the way because I am scraping the hardener from the hardener cup into the resin cup and not getting enough of the hardener out of the original cup.... or if it is humidity.

crystal clear 200 is a 100A:90B by weigh so I have been weighing 10 grams of part a and 9 grams of part b.
then dumping the part b into part a and scraping what is left from the cup as much as possible.
I think I am going to try to dump and scrape part a into part b instead to see if that helps.

I live in seattle and it is pretty warm atm. but at night it gets pretty cool. since the resin needs to be between 75-80 the whole time and I am doing this in my garage it is fine during the day but not acceptable at night. If this ends up being the issue then I am going to give up on crystal clear and go with onyx so I can sell some of these in black asap to recover my costs so my wife stops nagging me.

Tarzan · « **Reply #98 on:** Wed, 14 August 2013, 16:00:45 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Wed, 14 August 2013, 15:23:01

nice. I am interested in how the lid is designed on this model.

The shot below is before I started cleaning it, under a crust of dried paint spills I did discover a brass plate with Devilbiss and a model number, I'll have to look it up to see if I can find a list of specs.

Lid is held on by not four but six clamps, all in good condition, apart from the paint over everything. Gauges and valves on the top are a real hodge-podge of stuff, I'm going to replace most of it with new stuff for peace of mind.

Boot is a size 10 1/2, for comparison...

domoaligato · « **Reply #99 on:** Wed, 14 August 2013, 16:21:04 »

I like the 6 clamps instead of 4. nice find!

domoaligato · « **Reply #100 on:** Thu, 15 August 2013, 23:05:16 »

ok I give up on smooth-on crystal clear 200. maybe I will try 202 later but I think the polytek resin below has a cure time and hardness closer to what I am trying to achieve.

I will have to revisit clears with Poly-Optic 1410 later as it has a much faster cure time.
Mix Ratio - 3A:2B, by wt
Hardness (Shore A or D) - D80
Pour time, 2-lb mix - 15
Maximum exotherm, 2-lb mass - 265°F (129°C)
Demold time (hr)* - 2 (1-in thick)*
Specific gravity - 1.07
Viscosity, mixed 2 min (cP) - 700
Specific Volume, in3/lb - 27.5

I guess I will progress with the onyx for now as I am sure that people will like black gasmasks.

domoaligato · « **Reply #101 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 16:31:31 »

repost! excited!
Fyi.... success! I guess i can stop whining about clears!

domoaligato · « **Reply #102 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 16:40:43 »

I am not a professional photographer so the picture sucks.

the details came out perfect and it requires very light sanding to remove one line from the mold seam.
I have a week off from work so I am going to cast 4-5 more so that I can make a mold with 5-6 in it at once.

After this I am going to use turtle wax T-415 rubbing compound to remove the small imperfections and shine them up.

nubbinator · « **Reply #103 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 17:00:41 »

Nice. The clear is definitely getting there. I'm sure you could send one my way or Dionoda's way if you want some more photographs.

For making making the multiple mold, have you thought about casting in wax? It's quicker and you can more easily correct any mistakes in the part with it.

domoaligato · « **Reply #104 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 17:50:18 »

Quote from: nubbinator on Mon, 19 August 2013, 17:00:41

Nice. The clear is definitely getting there. I'm sure you could send one my way or Dionoda's way if you want some more photographs.

For making making the multiple mold, have you thought about casting in wax? It's quicker and you can more easily correct any mistakes in the part with it.

I really do not have many mistakes to speak of.
the mold max 25 works perfectly and is supposed to last a really long time with reuses.

for the multiple mold I will follow the same process I used for the single item mold from this video series...

So far I have cast 5 times in the same mold without mold release and it seems to stand up to my learning process very well.
The only reason I have a seam line is because I did not get the shipping/packing tape around my mold quite tight enough before the injection with the syringe.

For pictures I have already contacted mashby. I love his photo albums and in-depth reviews and thought of him first.
Sorry I did not know that you were handy with a camera

Maybe next time. (there will be plenty of opportunities!)

nubbinator · « **Reply #105 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 18:02:12 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Mon, 19 August 2013, 17:50:18

I really do not have many mistakes to speak of.
the mold max 25 works perfectly and is supposed to last a really long time with reuses.

for the multiple mold I will follow the same process I used for the single item mold from this video series...

So far I have cast 5 times in the same mold without mold release and it seems to stand up to my learning process very well.
The only reason I have a seam line is because I did not get the shipping/packing tape around my mold quite tight enough before the injection with the syringe.

For pictures I have already contacted mashby. I love his photo albums and in-depth reviews and thought of him first.
Sorry I did not know that you were handy with a camera
Maybe next time. (there will be plenty of opportunities!)

It's more of a speed, precautionary thing. I know you can crank out wax blanks in a couple of minutes compared to the much longer time that some of the resins take to cure.

Mold release doesn't really seem to be necessary with every resin, but it or vaseline helps tremendously for clean up if the resin doesn't cure and you're left with a sticky mess in the mold. And have you tried rubber bands instead of tape?

domoaligato · « **Reply #106 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 18:05:02 »

I have not yet tried rubber bands. the packing tape seems to work really well for when I place it in the toaster oven to post cure. I hate the spell of burning rubber and I am afraid to try it.

domoaligato · « **Reply #107 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 18:09:04 »

so let me see if I got this right.... your saying I can just cast wax in my silcone mold to make the prototypes for the multi unit mold instead of waiting 16 hours for each one?
what kind of wax will I have to use to make sure that it is not brittle and doesn't break when being pulled from the mold?

nubbinator · « **Reply #108 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 18:31:37 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Mon, 19 August 2013, 18:09:04

so let me see if I got this right.... your saying I can just cast wax in my silcone mold to make the prototypes for the multi unit mold instead of waiting 16 hours for each one?
what kind of wax will I have to use to make sure that it is not brittle and doesn't break when being pulled from the mold?

I've done it with carving wax, but know you can do it with some softer waxes too. I'm not sure how you set up your mold, so it may or may not work since you have to have large enough sprues.

bueller · « **Reply #109 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 20:28:02 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Mon, 19 August 2013, 16:31:31

repost! excited!
Fyi.... success! I guess i can stop whining about clears!

Show Image

WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAANT. Damn Domo, that turned out amazine!!!

Binge · « **Reply #110 on:** Tue, 20 August 2013, 12:22:14 »

Yo Domo, How are your stems fitting?

Also... I know you're using mold-max which is supposed to be some pretty good stuff. It recommends degassing, but from what I understand you only use pressure. Have you had any problems with your mold and bubbles?

domoaligato · « **Reply #111 on:** Tue, 20 August 2013, 16:38:58 »

my stems fit good... I modified a cherry stem to be open on the sides so it can work in any switch orientation.
no degassing the mold max and it works perfectly with only the pressure pot.
I am using mold max 25 but would prefer mold max 15 next time as it is more elastic. mold max 25 is a stiffer silicone and that makes it harder to demold the pieces.

so far will the mold and cast using the pressure pot I have not had one bubble....

here is what I figured out from reading the smooth-on docs and researching other stuff
for my long cure clears pressurise for 2 hours around 40 psi. 60 psi is overkill.
after that I remove my mold from the pressure pot when the material has set and place it in my office under my desk lamp. (helps maintain the higher temps needed to cure).
after the cure time is complete I wrap the mold and cast in aluminum foil and bake it in my toaster oven in my garage @ 150F for 4 hours. then I let it cool for about 1-2 hours before demolding to ensure that it has finished the post cure.

I know that this is not fully by the tech sheets but it seems to work for me.

Binge · « **Reply #112 on:** Tue, 20 August 2013, 16:46:49 »

what kind of difficulties did you come across when working with the higher durometer silicon? I have been using 30A and I prefer it enough to where I don't want to change to a different hardness. I'd like to hear your experiences.

domoaligato · « **Reply #113 on:** Tue, 20 August 2013, 17:04:08 »

mine is 25A and from what I have been reading 15A might be better for the smaller casts as it is easier to stretch and demold the items in a lower durometer silicone as long as it has a high tear strength.

domoaligato · « **Reply #114 on:** Tue, 20 August 2013, 17:18:01 »

I just demolded another cast.... first baddie...
I didn't add quite enough resin so the spru turned out weird and this one is trash.

Binge · « **Reply #115 on:** Tue, 20 August 2013, 17:21:00 »

we'll get through this... together!

Seriously it has been the most difficult thing to get consistent results with hand pouring. I hope with pressure I can get an even more accurate result

domoaligato · « **Reply #116 on:** Tue, 20 August 2013, 17:25:13 »

It is inconsistent because we are maing such small casts. That is why I want to make a bunch molds that hold 5-6 each so I can mix a half a cup of resin at once.

Binge · « **Reply #117 on:** Tue, 20 August 2013, 17:56:21 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Tue, 20 August 2013, 17:25:13

It is inconsistent because we are maing such small casts. That is why I want to make a bunch molds that hold 5-6 each so I can mix a half a cup of resin at once.

yep, and I can see the use of a lower hardness mold for making wax casts. tricky tricky

MKULTRA · « **Reply #118 on:** Wed, 21 August 2013, 23:45:44 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Mon, 19 August 2013, 16:31:31

repost! excited!
Fyi.... success! I guess i can stop whining about clears!

Show Image

These are rad I wish I could get my hands on one. The next craze on GH - Domocaps!

rurushu · « **Reply #119 on:** Fri, 23 August 2013, 14:46:27 »

that pyro is nicely cast!!!! cant wait to see your other prototypes!

domoaligato · « **Reply #120 on:** Fri, 23 August 2013, 23:58:40 »

Ok so I broke the stem off in my single keycap mold so it is time to create a 3x mold.
here are the pics.
it is in the pressure pot @ 55 psi ATM.
the prototypes have not been sanded/finished on the back so don't think to much into the backside of the cap please.
the pics also suck as they are all in my garage with my phone.

pour spout

I had to trim the lego plate to make it fit my pressure pot.

front view of them with the toothpicks attached for the sprues.

rear view with the keycap stems. (the flash really shows off the fact that they are transparent too much. the stems are a little different then you may be used to. they can fit any orientation and are open on the sides.)

another front view.

top view

side view

again

building the mold box...

mold max 25

partial fill 1

partial fill 2

partial fill 3

done pouring the mold

Binge · « **Reply #121 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 00:59:55 »

the mold is being cast under pressure, right?

domoaligato · « **Reply #122 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 01:19:01 »

Binge · « **Reply #123 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 01:23:23 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Sat, 24 August 2013, 01:19:01

Yes

BRILLIANT!!!

domoaligato · « **Reply #124 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 01:59:01 »

well lets see once it is done and I have to cut the bad boy open.

rurushu · « **Reply #125 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 03:18:41 »

the stem seems quite beat up... will it fit nicely on switches without wiggling? and since it is open cross section like those for metal keycaps, putting them on and taking them off for some time, will it be out of shape or even broke off?

domoaligato · « **Reply #126 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 03:46:59 »

Quote from: rurushu on Sat, 24 August 2013, 03:18:41

the stem seems quite beat up... will it fit nicely on switches without wiggling? and since it is open cross section like those for metal keycaps, putting them on and taking them off for some time, will it be out of shape or even broke off?

no... the stems will be fine.

domoaligato · « **Reply #127 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 03:49:04 »

on a different topic I have decided to put the domo-kun design aside for a while to work on something a little bit more ............... religious?
an update will come soon.

domoaligato · « **Reply #128 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 04:26:17 »

here is the update...
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42336.msg1012766#msg1012766

noisyturtle · « **Reply #129 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 04:42:00 »

Man, you are really improving your craft nicely. Amazing job, they look great so far.

MOZ · « **Reply #130 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 05:32:03 »

Getting real good at this Domo, can't wait when these go for sale.

Yours and Binge's work really makes me want to give a hand at this, but I doubt I can spend the amount required for a pressure pot at the current moment.

I'm thinking about giving a hand at some other hand moldable material.

domoaligato · « **Reply #131 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 11:38:45 »

the girlshark is made from fimo.
I have already cut it and glued it to a proper mount.

after the pyro's finish later today, I will make a mold for it.

esoomenona · « **Reply #132 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 11:42:20 »

Yep, I want this pyro.

ApocalypseMaow · « **Reply #133 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 11:58:56 »

I want alllllll da CAPS!!!

domoaligato · « **Reply #134 on:** Sun, 25 August 2013, 00:19:21 »

btw... the pyro caps are coming along nicely but it will be some time before they are offered. I am still cleaning up the design and have a lot of work left to get to a point where I would feel comfortable selling them.

the girlshark on the other hand may be available sooner.
I am painting the prototype atm to see what it might look like later. pics will come sometime tomorrow.

MKULTRA · « **Reply #135 on:** Sun, 25 August 2013, 01:31:48 »

Can't wait to see this round of pyro's.

domoaligato · « **Reply #136 on:** Sun, 25 August 2013, 01:37:55 »

I have to apply more epoxy to the back and resand it.
then reattach the stem.

I am honestly a perfectionist and I am not happy with it the way it is currently.

I am also out of mold material so I need to get more.

ApocalypseMaow · « **Reply #137 on:** Sun, 25 August 2013, 09:13:27 »

Girlshark! Girlshark! Girlshark!

rurushu · « **Reply #138 on:** Mon, 26 August 2013, 10:12:51 »

pyro~~~

domoaligato · « **Reply #139 on:** Mon, 26 August 2013, 12:29:51 »

my current status on the pyro is sanding and filling to perfect the master to get them to a point I would consider production worthy.

they will primarily be offered in black as a standard color with medium quantities of white, red, green, blue, yellow, etc, etc in solid colors. Transparent pyro caps will probably end up being made in low quantities as they require a lot more time/effort to complete.

pyro times for each cast to end product....
20 hours total per cap for transparent
2 hours total for black
6-8 hours total for white
6-8 hours total for solid colors

girlsharks....
these will be offered primarily only in white like kid robot vinyl toys (munny/dunny) that you can paint yourself and customize.
special editions will be created by me that will not be sold but given to members of the Church of Halverson that hold a high position of the clergy.

hint: 6 part hand casting with toothpicks... that will take up to 120 hours to complete each.

BunnyLake · « **Reply #140 on:** Mon, 26 August 2013, 12:35:44 »

i just wish you would let me give you my money for these already

domoaligato · « **Reply #141 on:** Mon, 26 August 2013, 13:07:09 »

Quote from: BunnyLake on Mon, 26 August 2013, 12:35:44

i just wish you would let me give you my money for these already

+1 lol I would love to make my money back I have spent on materials and equipment.

domoaligato · « **Reply #142 on:** Fri, 30 August 2013, 20:19:08 »

My wife had fun with the clay

MOZ · « **Reply #143 on:** Fri, 30 August 2013, 21:26:40 »

Those Pyro!

ApocalypseMaow · « **Reply #144 on:** Sat, 31 August 2013, 01:54:19 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Mon, 26 August 2013, 13:07:09

Quote from: BunnyLake on Mon, 26 August 2013, 12:35:44
i just wish you would let me give you my money for these already

+1 lol I would love to make my money back I have spent on materials and equipment.

Well good! Bunny and I can make that happen... Right Bun?

AndyCapets · « **Reply #145 on:** Mon, 02 September 2013, 19:36:04 »

Dem Pyros!

domoaligato · « **Reply #146 on:** Thu, 05 September 2013, 02:40:20 »

well... I have dropped the stem without the base idea.
It is just way to much bs to deal with.

Soon I will post my new 2 part mold that has the pyro on a normal keycap base.

domoaligato · « **Reply #147 on:** Sat, 07 September 2013, 16:47:09 »

Left revision 1
Right revision 2 the new reworked design.

domoaligato · « **Reply #148 on:** Sun, 08 September 2013, 16:28:58 »

Pink enough?

Binge · « **Reply #149 on:** Sun, 08 September 2013, 16:38:34 »

we'll see man, we'll see

Dubsgalore · « **Reply #150 on:** Sun, 08 September 2013, 17:10:17 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Sat, 07 September 2013, 16:47:09

Left revision 1
Right revision 2 the new reworked design.

Show Image

that gets me excited :)) :rolleyes:

Binge · « **Reply #151 on:** Tue, 10 September 2013, 16:31:24 »

I like this effort domo... I know all about revisions. I'm on my 3rd hand-e-cap... I made multiple moose-skulls, and my new efforts are taking just as long.

domoaligato · « **Reply #152 on:** Wed, 06 November 2013, 13:49:24 »

still alive. just been very very busy with work.

domoaligato · « **Reply #153 on:** Fri, 22 November 2013, 16:25:53 »

ok my garage is not a suitable location to make caps anymore due to the humility and temperatures.
my wife is going to love me using the air compressor in my office

jiggityjane · « **Reply #154 on:** Fri, 22 November 2013, 17:23:53 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Fri, 22 November 2013, 16:25:53

ok my garage is not a suitable location to make caps anymore due to the humility and temperatures.
my wife is going to love me using the air compressor in my office

Humility?

What you been doing in there

Neebio · « **Reply #155 on:** Fri, 22 November 2013, 17:30:13 »

I can only think of a couple activities that would cause undesirable levels of temperature and humility...

domoaligato · « **Reply #156 on:** Fri, 22 November 2013, 21:13:01 »

humidity lol android autocorrect on tapatalk.

domoaligato · « **Reply #157 on:** Wed, 28 May 2014, 21:35:58 »

ok so the mold max is flowing again!

Halverson · « **Reply #158 on:** Wed, 28 May 2014, 21:56:33 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Wed, 28 May 2014, 21:35:58

ok so the mold max is flowing again!

Let it flow, let it poor!

bueller · « **Reply #159 on:** Wed, 28 May 2014, 21:57:43 »

Wooot!

Halverson · « **Reply #160 on:** Wed, 28 May 2014, 22:01:33 »

Quote from: Halverson on Wed, 28 May 2014, 21:56:33

Quote from: domoaligato on Wed, 28 May 2014, 21:35:58
ok so the mold max is flowing again!

Let it flow, let it pour!

Woops....meant to fix my spelling error and quoted my post and fixed it

Dubsgalore · « **Reply #161 on:** Thu, 29 May 2014, 17:01:03 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Wed, 28 May 2014, 21:35:58

ok so the mold max is flowing again!

bcredbottle · « **Reply #162 on:** Sun, 22 November 2015, 17:03:33 »

Ridic necro post but what happened to this? These caps were awesome. Are you still casting?

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #163 on:** Sun, 22 November 2015, 17:11:25 »

Quote from: bcredbottle on Sun, 22 November 2015, 17:03:33

Ridic necro post but what happened to this? These caps were awesome. Are you still casting?

this would have made so much more sense if you would have just pm'd domo

bcredbottle · « **Reply #164 on:** Sun, 22 November 2015, 17:24:50 »

Quote from: SpAmRaY on Sun, 22 November 2015, 17:11:25

Quote from: bcredbottle on Sun, 22 November 2015, 17:03:33
Ridic necro post but what happened to this? These caps were awesome. Are you still casting?

this would have made so much more sense if you would have just pm'd domo

k

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Author Topic: Domo Caps [working thread] (Read 25490 times)