Author Topic: Domo Caps [working thread] (Read 25597 times)

domoaligato · « **Reply #100 on:** Thu, 15 August 2013, 23:05:16 »

ok I give up on smooth-on crystal clear 200. maybe I will try 202 later but I think the polytek resin below has a cure time and hardness closer to what I am trying to achieve.

I will have to revisit clears with Poly-Optic 1410 later as it has a much faster cure time.
Mix Ratio - 3A:2B, by wt
Hardness (Shore A or D) - D80
Pour time, 2-lb mix - 15
Maximum exotherm, 2-lb mass - 265°F (129°C)
Demold time (hr)* - 2 (1-in thick)*
Specific gravity - 1.07
Viscosity, mixed 2 min (cP) - 700
Specific Volume, in3/lb - 27.5

I guess I will progress with the onyx for now as I am sure that people will like black gasmasks.

domoaligato · « **Reply #101 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 16:31:31 »

repost! excited!
Fyi.... success! I guess i can stop whining about clears!

domoaligato · « **Reply #102 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 16:40:43 »

I am not a professional photographer so the picture sucks.

the details came out perfect and it requires very light sanding to remove one line from the mold seam.
I have a week off from work so I am going to cast 4-5 more so that I can make a mold with 5-6 in it at once.

After this I am going to use turtle wax T-415 rubbing compound to remove the small imperfections and shine them up.

nubbinator · « **Reply #103 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 17:00:41 »

Nice. The clear is definitely getting there. I'm sure you could send one my way or Dionoda's way if you want some more photographs.

For making making the multiple mold, have you thought about casting in wax? It's quicker and you can more easily correct any mistakes in the part with it.

domoaligato · « **Reply #104 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 17:50:18 »

Quote from: nubbinator on Mon, 19 August 2013, 17:00:41

Nice. The clear is definitely getting there. I'm sure you could send one my way or Dionoda's way if you want some more photographs.

For making making the multiple mold, have you thought about casting in wax? It's quicker and you can more easily correct any mistakes in the part with it.

I really do not have many mistakes to speak of.
the mold max 25 works perfectly and is supposed to last a really long time with reuses.

for the multiple mold I will follow the same process I used for the single item mold from this video series...

So far I have cast 5 times in the same mold without mold release and it seems to stand up to my learning process very well.
The only reason I have a seam line is because I did not get the shipping/packing tape around my mold quite tight enough before the injection with the syringe.

For pictures I have already contacted mashby. I love his photo albums and in-depth reviews and thought of him first.
Sorry I did not know that you were handy with a camera

Maybe next time. (there will be plenty of opportunities!)

nubbinator · « **Reply #105 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 18:02:12 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Mon, 19 August 2013, 17:50:18

I really do not have many mistakes to speak of.
the mold max 25 works perfectly and is supposed to last a really long time with reuses.

for the multiple mold I will follow the same process I used for the single item mold from this video series...

So far I have cast 5 times in the same mold without mold release and it seems to stand up to my learning process very well.
The only reason I have a seam line is because I did not get the shipping/packing tape around my mold quite tight enough before the injection with the syringe.

For pictures I have already contacted mashby. I love his photo albums and in-depth reviews and thought of him first.
Sorry I did not know that you were handy with a camera
Maybe next time. (there will be plenty of opportunities!)

It's more of a speed, precautionary thing. I know you can crank out wax blanks in a couple of minutes compared to the much longer time that some of the resins take to cure.

Mold release doesn't really seem to be necessary with every resin, but it or vaseline helps tremendously for clean up if the resin doesn't cure and you're left with a sticky mess in the mold. And have you tried rubber bands instead of tape?

domoaligato · « **Reply #106 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 18:05:02 »

I have not yet tried rubber bands. the packing tape seems to work really well for when I place it in the toaster oven to post cure. I hate the spell of burning rubber and I am afraid to try it.

domoaligato · « **Reply #107 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 18:09:04 »

so let me see if I got this right.... your saying I can just cast wax in my silcone mold to make the prototypes for the multi unit mold instead of waiting 16 hours for each one?
what kind of wax will I have to use to make sure that it is not brittle and doesn't break when being pulled from the mold?

nubbinator · « **Reply #108 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 18:31:37 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Mon, 19 August 2013, 18:09:04

so let me see if I got this right.... your saying I can just cast wax in my silcone mold to make the prototypes for the multi unit mold instead of waiting 16 hours for each one?
what kind of wax will I have to use to make sure that it is not brittle and doesn't break when being pulled from the mold?

I've done it with carving wax, but know you can do it with some softer waxes too. I'm not sure how you set up your mold, so it may or may not work since you have to have large enough sprues.

bueller · « **Reply #109 on:** Mon, 19 August 2013, 20:28:02 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Mon, 19 August 2013, 16:31:31

repost! excited!
Fyi.... success! I guess i can stop whining about clears!

Show Image

WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAANT. Damn Domo, that turned out amazine!!!

Binge · « **Reply #110 on:** Tue, 20 August 2013, 12:22:14 »

Yo Domo, How are your stems fitting?

Also... I know you're using mold-max which is supposed to be some pretty good stuff. It recommends degassing, but from what I understand you only use pressure. Have you had any problems with your mold and bubbles?

domoaligato · « **Reply #111 on:** Tue, 20 August 2013, 16:38:58 »

my stems fit good... I modified a cherry stem to be open on the sides so it can work in any switch orientation.
no degassing the mold max and it works perfectly with only the pressure pot.
I am using mold max 25 but would prefer mold max 15 next time as it is more elastic. mold max 25 is a stiffer silicone and that makes it harder to demold the pieces.

so far will the mold and cast using the pressure pot I have not had one bubble....

here is what I figured out from reading the smooth-on docs and researching other stuff
for my long cure clears pressurise for 2 hours around 40 psi. 60 psi is overkill.
after that I remove my mold from the pressure pot when the material has set and place it in my office under my desk lamp. (helps maintain the higher temps needed to cure).
after the cure time is complete I wrap the mold and cast in aluminum foil and bake it in my toaster oven in my garage @ 150F for 4 hours. then I let it cool for about 1-2 hours before demolding to ensure that it has finished the post cure.

I know that this is not fully by the tech sheets but it seems to work for me.

Binge · « **Reply #112 on:** Tue, 20 August 2013, 16:46:49 »

what kind of difficulties did you come across when working with the higher durometer silicon? I have been using 30A and I prefer it enough to where I don't want to change to a different hardness. I'd like to hear your experiences.

domoaligato · « **Reply #113 on:** Tue, 20 August 2013, 17:04:08 »

mine is 25A and from what I have been reading 15A might be better for the smaller casts as it is easier to stretch and demold the items in a lower durometer silicone as long as it has a high tear strength.

domoaligato · « **Reply #114 on:** Tue, 20 August 2013, 17:18:01 »

I just demolded another cast.... first baddie...
I didn't add quite enough resin so the spru turned out weird and this one is trash.

Binge · « **Reply #115 on:** Tue, 20 August 2013, 17:21:00 »

we'll get through this... together!

Seriously it has been the most difficult thing to get consistent results with hand pouring. I hope with pressure I can get an even more accurate result

domoaligato · « **Reply #116 on:** Tue, 20 August 2013, 17:25:13 »

It is inconsistent because we are maing such small casts. That is why I want to make a bunch molds that hold 5-6 each so I can mix a half a cup of resin at once.

Binge · « **Reply #117 on:** Tue, 20 August 2013, 17:56:21 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Tue, 20 August 2013, 17:25:13

It is inconsistent because we are maing such small casts. That is why I want to make a bunch molds that hold 5-6 each so I can mix a half a cup of resin at once.

yep, and I can see the use of a lower hardness mold for making wax casts. tricky tricky

MKULTRA · « **Reply #118 on:** Wed, 21 August 2013, 23:45:44 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Mon, 19 August 2013, 16:31:31

repost! excited!
Fyi.... success! I guess i can stop whining about clears!

Show Image

These are rad I wish I could get my hands on one. The next craze on GH - Domocaps!

rurushu · « **Reply #119 on:** Fri, 23 August 2013, 14:46:27 »

that pyro is nicely cast!!!! cant wait to see your other prototypes!

domoaligato · « **Reply #120 on:** Fri, 23 August 2013, 23:58:40 »

Ok so I broke the stem off in my single keycap mold so it is time to create a 3x mold.
here are the pics.
it is in the pressure pot @ 55 psi ATM.
the prototypes have not been sanded/finished on the back so don't think to much into the backside of the cap please.
the pics also suck as they are all in my garage with my phone.

pour spout

I had to trim the lego plate to make it fit my pressure pot.

front view of them with the toothpicks attached for the sprues.

rear view with the keycap stems. (the flash really shows off the fact that they are transparent too much. the stems are a little different then you may be used to. they can fit any orientation and are open on the sides.)

another front view.

top view

side view

again

building the mold box...

mold max 25

partial fill 1

partial fill 2

partial fill 3

done pouring the mold

Binge · « **Reply #121 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 00:59:55 »

the mold is being cast under pressure, right?

domoaligato · « **Reply #122 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 01:19:01 »

Binge · « **Reply #123 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 01:23:23 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Sat, 24 August 2013, 01:19:01

Yes

BRILLIANT!!!

domoaligato · « **Reply #124 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 01:59:01 »

well lets see once it is done and I have to cut the bad boy open.

rurushu · « **Reply #125 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 03:18:41 »

the stem seems quite beat up... will it fit nicely on switches without wiggling? and since it is open cross section like those for metal keycaps, putting them on and taking them off for some time, will it be out of shape or even broke off?

domoaligato · « **Reply #126 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 03:46:59 »

Quote from: rurushu on Sat, 24 August 2013, 03:18:41

the stem seems quite beat up... will it fit nicely on switches without wiggling? and since it is open cross section like those for metal keycaps, putting them on and taking them off for some time, will it be out of shape or even broke off?

no... the stems will be fine.

domoaligato · « **Reply #127 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 03:49:04 »

on a different topic I have decided to put the domo-kun design aside for a while to work on something a little bit more ............... religious?
an update will come soon.

domoaligato · « **Reply #128 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 04:26:17 »

here is the update...
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42336.msg1012766#msg1012766

noisyturtle · « **Reply #129 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 04:42:00 »

Man, you are really improving your craft nicely. Amazing job, they look great so far.

MOZ · « **Reply #130 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 05:32:03 »

Getting real good at this Domo, can't wait when these go for sale.

Yours and Binge's work really makes me want to give a hand at this, but I doubt I can spend the amount required for a pressure pot at the current moment.

I'm thinking about giving a hand at some other hand moldable material.

domoaligato · « **Reply #131 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 11:38:45 »

the girlshark is made from fimo.
I have already cut it and glued it to a proper mount.

after the pyro's finish later today, I will make a mold for it.

esoomenona · « **Reply #132 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 11:42:20 »

Yep, I want this pyro.

ApocalypseMaow · « **Reply #133 on:** Sat, 24 August 2013, 11:58:56 »

I want alllllll da CAPS!!!

domoaligato · « **Reply #134 on:** Sun, 25 August 2013, 00:19:21 »

btw... the pyro caps are coming along nicely but it will be some time before they are offered. I am still cleaning up the design and have a lot of work left to get to a point where I would feel comfortable selling them.

the girlshark on the other hand may be available sooner.
I am painting the prototype atm to see what it might look like later. pics will come sometime tomorrow.

MKULTRA · « **Reply #135 on:** Sun, 25 August 2013, 01:31:48 »

Can't wait to see this round of pyro's.

domoaligato · « **Reply #136 on:** Sun, 25 August 2013, 01:37:55 »

I have to apply more epoxy to the back and resand it.
then reattach the stem.

I am honestly a perfectionist and I am not happy with it the way it is currently.

I am also out of mold material so I need to get more.

ApocalypseMaow · « **Reply #137 on:** Sun, 25 August 2013, 09:13:27 »

Girlshark! Girlshark! Girlshark!

rurushu · « **Reply #138 on:** Mon, 26 August 2013, 10:12:51 »

pyro~~~

domoaligato · « **Reply #139 on:** Mon, 26 August 2013, 12:29:51 »

my current status on the pyro is sanding and filling to perfect the master to get them to a point I would consider production worthy.

they will primarily be offered in black as a standard color with medium quantities of white, red, green, blue, yellow, etc, etc in solid colors. Transparent pyro caps will probably end up being made in low quantities as they require a lot more time/effort to complete.

pyro times for each cast to end product....
20 hours total per cap for transparent
2 hours total for black
6-8 hours total for white
6-8 hours total for solid colors

girlsharks....
these will be offered primarily only in white like kid robot vinyl toys (munny/dunny) that you can paint yourself and customize.
special editions will be created by me that will not be sold but given to members of the Church of Halverson that hold a high position of the clergy.

hint: 6 part hand casting with toothpicks... that will take up to 120 hours to complete each.

BunnyLake · « **Reply #140 on:** Mon, 26 August 2013, 12:35:44 »

i just wish you would let me give you my money for these already

domoaligato · « **Reply #141 on:** Mon, 26 August 2013, 13:07:09 »

Quote from: BunnyLake on Mon, 26 August 2013, 12:35:44

i just wish you would let me give you my money for these already

+1 lol I would love to make my money back I have spent on materials and equipment.

domoaligato · « **Reply #142 on:** Fri, 30 August 2013, 20:19:08 »

My wife had fun with the clay

MOZ · « **Reply #143 on:** Fri, 30 August 2013, 21:26:40 »

Those Pyro!

ApocalypseMaow · « **Reply #144 on:** Sat, 31 August 2013, 01:54:19 »

Quote from: domoaligato on Mon, 26 August 2013, 13:07:09

Quote from: BunnyLake on Mon, 26 August 2013, 12:35:44
i just wish you would let me give you my money for these already

+1 lol I would love to make my money back I have spent on materials and equipment.

Well good! Bunny and I can make that happen... Right Bun?

AndyCapets · « **Reply #145 on:** Mon, 02 September 2013, 19:36:04 »

Dem Pyros!

domoaligato · « **Reply #146 on:** Thu, 05 September 2013, 02:40:20 »

well... I have dropped the stem without the base idea.
It is just way to much bs to deal with.

Soon I will post my new 2 part mold that has the pyro on a normal keycap base.

domoaligato · « **Reply #147 on:** Sat, 07 September 2013, 16:47:09 »

Left revision 1
Right revision 2 the new reworked design.

domoaligato · « **Reply #148 on:** Sun, 08 September 2013, 16:28:58 »

Pink enough?

Binge · « **Reply #149 on:** Sun, 08 September 2013, 16:38:34 »

we'll see man, we'll see

News:

Author Topic: Domo Caps [working thread] (Read 25597 times)