YOU may not have tested my cutouts, but I have. They are present in a bunch of existing plates, including every JD40 plate in existence. Why would they not work in swill's application?
So are you vouching for the optimality of swill's costar cutouts/compatibility?
Have you read the issues/discussions about the costar stabs?
If they are the functionally same as mine, why wouldn't they work the same? Obviously I can't vouch for something I haven't tested myself.
I have read the discussion about the Costar issues, and I don't have the problem you experienced with Costar stabilizers in my cutouts. I've built many a JD40 with a Costar stabilizer on the spacebar, and never had one problem. Maybe it's because I only use laser cut 0.062" thick 304 stainless for my plates?
That's my point, more testing is needed for vouching and validating
As wes1099, I initially experienced costar stabiliser issues with the infinitykb, I don't know the source of their calculations, but they are also cherry+costar's (everyone who built their infinity reported similar issues)
The issue is similar to the one others reported with swillkb's cherry+costar cutout, the far side of the insert rubbing to the slider, only pushing/sanding the slider makes the stabiliser usable, for some that didn't work either
I think the cherry+costar cutout was on the edge of the costar stabiliser's error margin (there is a lot of wiggle room for the insert, I believe for an optimal setup, the insert should be centered, currently the insert leans to one side, rubbing it), the latest update pushed things for the worse
I believe the costar-only cutouts should be optimised further, compared to a WASD V2's cutouts, there is a visible difference of around 1mm's
On a selfish level, I could just push the costar cutouts to my liking myself and get things over with, as I genuinely believe they should be improved/fixed, but I don't want to see others get plates built only to experience similar issues
So some of the stuff you are saying is just not true, which is unfortunate and only making things less clear. The adjustment I did to the costar cutout WAS IN THE CORRECT DIRECTION.
Before, it was .75mm towards the wire side on both the top and bottom (as per the only spec available). The costar opening was 14mm long which is the same as the switch opening. This is what you originally had a problems with. I did a bunch of testing here on my cherry + costar cutout and verified that the cutout was too far towards the wire side. However, I think part of the reason for this is because of the 1.6mm plate thickness which makes the costar stabilizer not clip in perfectly. I will give you numbers on this stuff in a second.
So instead of the cutout being 14mm long and the top and bottom both being .75mm from the top, I left the bottom the same as it was and I elongated the hole by .15mm, so the top is now only .6mm from the top of the switch and the cutout is 14.15mm long. For comparison, JD's is 14.19mm long and is almost exactly the same placement as mine.
I know that the 1.6mm plate is causing the stabilizer to not clip in perfectly because the opening between the top of the uprights of the costar stabilizer when clipped in is 7.5mm while on the QFR, the same stabilizer has a top opening of 7.9mm. Also, the width of the slider which goes between the two uprights is 7.3mm, so the tolerances we are working with here are in the ballpark of .1mm to .2mm. Your suggestion to move the cutout by a whole mm would make nothing work.
So, in summary... lengthening the cutout will make the uprights sit more correctly and let the stabilizer clip in better. It will also give more room for the upright on the opposite side from the upright a little more space to get out of the way.
Just so you know. The space between the uprights and the switch are NOT supposed to be lined up. The reason is because the insert is longer on the top side than the bottom side, so that opening is actually shifted slightly towards the top of the switch (away from the wire). You will also notice that the space between the uprights is not centered in the middle of the cutout because the wire mechanism pushes all of that towards the top of the switch.
Hope that clears things up.
I appreciate the feedback, but I need measurements with a caliper if you are testing and things are not working as you expect so I can understand the problem.
Cheers...
Edit: I am actually considering extending my cutout by another 0.04mm towards the top to make it the same as JD's exactly at 14.19mm long. I think that could help guarantee that everything will work well with the slightly thicker 1.6mm plates. The reason I am not right now is because the top of the top upright will exaggerate the problem because of the placement of the pivot point being right at the level of the plate.