Prototyping New Keyboard Designs (Using Plate Mounting and Direct Wiring)

[metalliqaz]

To the pain.

lol, nice 

/i am inigo montoya...

[Melvang]

I am trying a new approach for prototyping boards by mounting the base of the switch almost as if it is a PCB, ie drilling round holes in the plate and gluing the switch base to it. 4mm hole for the round bit, 1.5mm per pin (but you may need to make these larger for metal plates in case of accidental contact).

That way you can open up the switch easily and only need basic drilling skill to make the plate. Most (all?) MX switches use the same base and contact design, so you can change the stems and springs without having to remove the bases.

Downside is it may be hard to line up the switches exactly 90 degrees, but I'll try using a ruler against one edge when putting in a row / column of switches (depending which way the stagger goes for the particular design). Other downside is I don't have a drill press and I find it hard to drill without the bit "wandering" at the start.

My first attempt will be on 4mm acrylic. I may try making "channels" for the matrix wiring and diodes so you can cover them easily (flush underside) without needing to make a case. I also want to try LED edge lighting for overall backlighting

I love "GeekHacking"!

Show Image

To prevent the bit from wandering you need a center punch.  Go to Menards/Sears and get one.  Just put the point where you want to drill and hit with a hammer.  You now have a little indent that will prevent the bit from walking around on you.

[DaveB]

Cool idea. If your plate were metal, you might tap a center punch or a nail with a small hammer, or mallet to make very small divots at the precise center of the hole you want to drill. A drill press helps make perfectly plumb holes easier, but for small holes like 4mm, a hand drill will work just fine. If you were gluing the MX bottoms to metal, you choices of glues would be limited, but still doable.

With Acrylic, the mallet & center punch would make the little divot you need to start the drill in the right place, and keep it there, but there's a fairly great risk of cracking, or even shattering it. If you have a soldering iron, use the sharpest tip you have, you need just barely touch the acrylic with the hot gun to make it easier to keep your drilling spot on. An added benefit is that plastic to plastic bonds are a bit easier, even if they are different plastics.

If you can swing printing a plain paper pattern of your design, use something no bigger than 1mm diameter to poke holes at the very center of each of the holes you're going to drill to mark where the divots go. That's the first step in keeping your keycaps aligned properly. I think you're headed in the right direction in your use of a ruler to set each one as you cement it down. Plastic cements typically grab quickly, so unless you use something that's slower,
it might be best to cement one, align & set it, then move on to the next. If you have surplus acrylic after your plate is cut to size, check the corners for square, then cut a few to use in squaring your switches.

Around here, even seldom used, high quality second hand bench top drill presses go for < US $50. If you're near Helsinki, check this out. Buying used stuff keeps it in service longer, is easier on the pocket book, and it's one less thing that has to be imported.

☮   Dave

[DaveB]

/i am inigo montoya...

Stop saying that!

[JPG]

Thanks, metalliqaz; I was hoping to hear that. I'm a few steps away from that point yet, but it feels like I'm heading in the right direction. As will be obvious to many folks around here, this layout was pretty strongly influenced by the Truly Ergonomic keyboard. I still have lots of time to refine before any actual work starts. I made an offer which the seller accepted, so I ordered 3 of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/271225181823?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 keyboards for the Cherry MX black switches, touchpads, and anything else I might find. They should be here later this week. Same seller has them in white cases with white keycaps.

I haven't gone looking for a CAD program with which to make the DWG file yet. This is a raster drawing, not a vector which is why the diagonal lines are fuzzy. I want to learn to make my own, but suggestions on which CAD program to use, or how to use it to get what I'm aiming for are welcome.

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These are also Photoshop sketches that I made to help me communicate the direction in which I'm headed. My son modified my case shape and came up with this much nicer one.

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Here it is with it's primordial legend. I'll be grateful for your critiques, and suggestions. It has a fair bit of room for improvement.

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☮   Dave

PS; Wanna be the first person on my street with a ☮ key.

First, very nice idea. Not my dream keyboard, but very nice still. There is only 2 things that I would consider before building this if I was you:

1. Look at the slope of the case where your palms would rest. I think it would be very important to have something similar to a palm rest to be comfortable using.
2. It would probably be even more of a challenge, but have you considered using a small trackball instead of the scroll pad? I have never seen it, but in my head it would be much nicer to have a small track ball at easy reach from the thumb instead of a scroll pad that is more far below. But it's still a very nice idea to put either and it's probably easier to fit a touch pad in an already complex case design.

Have fun with your project!

[Melvang]

Cool idea. If your plate were metal, you might tap a center punch or a nail with a small hammer, or mallet to make very small divots at the precise center of the hole you want to drill. A drill press helps make perfectly plumb holes easier, but for small holes like 4mm, a hand drill will work just fine. If you were gluing the MX bottoms to metal, you choices of glues would be limited, but still doable.

With Acrylic, the mallet & center punch would make the little divot you need to start the drill in the right place, and keep it there, but there's a fairly great risk of cracking, or even shattering it. If you have a soldering iron, use the sharpest tip you have, you need just barely touch the acrylic with the hot gun to make it easier to keep your drilling spot on. An added benefit is that plastic to plastic bonds are a bit easier, even if they are different plastics.

If you can swing printing a plain paper pattern of your design, use something no bigger than 1mm diameter to poke holes at the very center of each of the holes you're going to drill to mark where the divots go. That's the first step in keeping your keycaps aligned properly. I think you're headed in the right direction in your use of a ruler to set each one as you cement it down. Plastic cements typically grab quickly, so unless you use something that's slower,
it might be best to cement one, align & set it, then move on to the next. If you have surplus acrylic after your plate is cut to size, check the corners for square, then cut a few to use in squaring your switches.

Around here, even seldom used, high quality second hand bench top drill presses go for < US $50. If you're near Helsinki, check this out. Buying used stuff keeps it in service longer, is easier on the pocket book, and it's one less thing that has to be imported.

☮   Dave

Also keep in mind that if using stainless you need a GOOD quality bit and probably a few of them due to the material characteristics.  Of the common metals that are worked with Stainless is one of the toughest to drill.  Make sure you use cutting fluid of some fashion and a sharp bit.  If you attempt it with a dull bit it could work harden the stainless and you will almost never get through it without a cobalt drill bit which generally start around $20 each and can get as expensive as $70 a piece.  For these size holes I can't recommend a drill press enough as all drill bits are hardened to the point that they are very brittle, and prone to very easy breakage.  Please take this as the gospel.  With my day to day job I am speaking from experience on all of this.

[DaveB]

1. Look at the slope of the case where your palms would rest. I think it would be very important to have something similar to a palm rest to be comfortable using.

Excellent point. My son brought that up to me shortly after he saw the first sketch I made. I haven't solved that problem yet, but I like how nubbinator resolved it. in his design. It looks comfortable to me, as well as looking good. I'm not coming up with anything I like very well yet.

2. It would probably be even more of a challenge, but have you considered using a small trackball instead of the scroll pad? I have never seen it, but in my head it would be much nicer to have a small track ball at easy reach from the thumb instead of a scroll pad that is more far below. But it's still a very nice idea to put either and it's probably easier to fit a touch pad in an already complex case design.[/quote]

I hadn't thought of that, and that's a great idea. I need to go check those devices out. I'm not keen on the look of mouse pads, and I've seen some great looking track balls. Thanks for the idea, JPG; I like it.

☮   Dave

[DaveB]

I meant to put this dwg up a while ago, but here it is. I'd like very much for someone who's experienced with these to scrutinize it before someone finds any errors the hard way. This is the first time I've used a CAD program.



☮   Dave

ETA:  There are several hidden layers in the dwg which depict keys, centers, dimensions, and margins. I hope you find something of use to you.

[Oobly]

I meant to put this dwg up a while ago, but here it is. I'd like very much for someone who's experienced with these to scrutinize it before someone finds any errors the hard way. This is the first time I've used a CAD program.

Show Image

☮   Dave

ETA:  There are several hidden layers in the dwg which depict keys, centers, dimensions, and margins. I hope you find something of use to you.

I can see one potential problem: The stabilisers won't work for the space bar and other middle button, due to the angles. Assuming you can have custom caps made with correctly angled stems, the stabiliser bar won't move correctly in the stabiliser units due to being at different angles to each other.

I would suggest you redesign the plate a little with the centre keys straight. That way you can use stock keycaps and the stabilisers will work. Either that or split the longer buttons in two and use separate keyswitches under each smaller keycap. It will also make the layout a bit more flexible, since you can use your thumbs to do more functions.

[DaveB]

Thank you for that, Oobly. I'm going to have to work on the stabilizer business I can see now. I'll be making the keys for this keyboard, and the curved center keys are fairly important to the design. You can see it here.

☮   Dave

[yasuo]

Can someone make plate this?
i can make plate own with photoshop but not neat and spacing not consistent with,
i never sure handyman cutting stainless steel understand )
Edit:Forget size keycap on pinky,modify on thumb

i've email SP about ISO enter,but answer yet

Thanks much

[Paranoid]

SP has ISO enters (although maybe not in stock), but how the hell are you going to get a reversed ISO enter?? You can't just flip it ^^

[yasuo]

SP has ISO enters (although maybe not in stock), but how the hell are you going to get a reversed ISO enter?? You can't just flip it ^^

really, i think it just make plate(iso enter) upside down also, then upside down ISOenter and plug 
i need two right left, ISOenter can for right side only, i hope SP can making both...

like this but this right only

[Paranoid]

I think your only option is like this, correct me if I'm wrong:

[yasuo]

Right therefore,i hope SP make for left side )
if not i will edit again

[Paranoid]

Alright, good luck!

[yasuo]

Alright, good luck!

sir,birthday JK.... )

[metalliqaz]

I doubt that they can make that key.  For custom keys, they have to make a new mold which costs thousands of dollars.

[yasuo]

I doubt that they can make that key.  For custom keys, they have to make a new mold which costs thousands of dollars.

Thanks for the info, really just make mold ISO so expensive
if so i will edit

[regack]

Thank you for that, Oobly. I'm going to have to work on the stabilizer business I can see now. I'll be making the keys for this keyboard, and the curved center keys are fairly important to the design. You can see it here.

☮   Dave

Maybe instead of stabilizers you can just use a lightly sprung switches with the internal contacts removed to further reduce friction points

[jdcarpe]

Right therefore,i hope SP make for left side )
if not i will edit again

Yeah, SP can almost certainly make the mold for you, but it would cost at least $4000.

[yasuo]

Right therefore,i hope SP make for left side )
if not i will edit again

Yeah, SP can almost certainly make the mold for you, but it would cost at least $4000.

better, i bought topre )

i've edit sir,can you make plate for me thanks

[DaveB]

Maybe instead of stabilizers you can just use a lightly sprung switches with the internal contacts removed to further reduce friction points

That's a great idea. I set this project aside for a bit because I wasn't getting anywhere with a solution, but this sounds like it might be just what I was looking for. Thanks!

I didn't find this forum until some months after Small Fry's life was so abruptly ended. I was seeing truly honorable mentions of his name in sig files, and occasional posts. I had already seen some of his posts, too, but the names didn't click at first, and I didn't realize I was reading his own posts as I was reading about how he affected his many friends here. Gradually, the light ramped up, and the pieces started to tell a story. It is quite touching to come here as an outsider, and see the often profound, and palpable sense of loss so many of you have expressed in one way or another. From reading the few of his posts that I have so far, I have no doubt that your Small Fry PCB would make him beam.

Dave  ☮

[yasuo]

I doubt that they can make that key.  For custom keys, they have to make a new mold which costs thousands of dollars.

Yeah, SP can almost certainly make the mold for you, but it would cost at least $4000.

yeah,very true

[yasuo]

Anybody,can help me for make plate
i'm always confused with measurement

sorry,if little force

Thanks very much

[metalliqaz]

I suggest downloading one of the open source designs, then you can measure it.  Phantom or GH60 should work.

[yasuo]

I suggest downloading one of the open source designs, then you can measure it.  Phantom or GH60 should work.

already sir,i download phantom.dxf how to edit sir on DrafSight? looks complex
any tutorial make with photshop? actually i can edit design plate sir.jd/matt30 though not neat
but i not sure they (laser cutting) workers understand

[metalliqaz]

I don't think you want to use Photoshop for designing plates.  At the very LEAST use Inkscape (vector graphics, not raster).
If you want to actually get something made, you will need it to be in a format that can be used for manufacturing.  Sorry to say it, but if you are serious about prototyping a design, you're going to need to learn CAD

[jdcarpe]

I suggest downloading one of the open source designs, then you can measure it.  Phantom or GH60 should work.

already sir,i download phantom.dxf how to edit sir on DrafSight? looks complex
any tutorial make with photshop? actually i can edit design plate sir.jd/matt30 though not neat
but i not sure they (laser cutting) workers understand

Have you looked at this thread? GH CAD Resources Hub

There is lots of good information there, as well as sample CAD files you can use to get started.

[yasuo]

I suggest downloading one of the open source designs, then you can measure it.  Phantom or GH60 should work.

already sir,i download phantom.dxf how to edit sir on DrafSight? looks complex
any tutorial make with photshop? actually i can edit design plate sir.jd/matt30 though not neat
but i not sure they (laser cutting) workers understand

Have you looked at this thread? GH CAD Resources Hub

There is lots of good information there, as well as sample CAD files you can use to get started.

Always sir,I've downloaded a lot sir
i open the file on draf sight then i don't know to edit

I hard to understand  

what should dwg to laser cutting?

[domoaligato]

youtube has a large selection of how to videos. I would search there.

[metalliqaz]

Probably language barrier

[DaveB]

I'm real new to all of this, so bear that in mind as you read. I have never used a CAD program before. I chose DraftSight. Like any new software, it takes a little time to learn, but there are many tutorials for this application, and that's a big help. It's also true that the more software you learn, the more "intuitive" the next app is to you.

When communicating with math, there is no language barrier. A CAD program is basically a way to do that in that by using it's interface, you can manipulate the geometry and all the related calculations with a relatively minimal knowledge of the mathematics required.  While CAD programs help you make illustrations which will help in human to human communication (one picture is worth a thousand words), their output is essential for use with laser cutters, plasma cutters, CNC routers, and so on. If you don't present a finished CAD drawing, you'll have to pay the laser cutter to do that. Not only can that get expensive, but the risk of error may be greater, especially when communication is difficult for one reason or another.

DraftSight allows you to manipulate the geometry by using your mouse. If there's an easy way to achieve the precision that's required using this method, I haven't found it. It also gives you a command line in the lower left corner which prompts you to make the next step. But if you want a line of a precise length, or a precise angle, or radius, using the command line is both relatively easy to learn, and extremely efficient.

Photoshop is primarily a raster drawing tool. That means that all your work is pixilated. If you try to enlarge or reduce dimensions, something is lost. You can test this by selecting the single row or column marquis tool to draw a 1px wide line across your canvas. Fill that marquis with a color that contrasts with the background color you used. What happens when you enlarge your image by varying amounts; be sure to look at an increase in image size by just 1 px.  Zoom in as far as PS allows; what do you see?

PS does include a pen tool, and that, like the pen tool in Illustrator, is a vector drawing tool. Do the same experiment as above with a single line you draw with the pen tool. When you zoom into your vector drawing, what do you see then? I believe that as long as you don't rasterize it, you can save it as a vector. At best, though, the precision the laser cutter software needs is challenging to obtain in PS. It's like, you can drive a small nail into wood with the handle of a screwdriver, but a hammer makes the job so much faster, and cleaner. I'm also not sure if PS will save in a file format a laser cutter can read.

If this is about making just one drawing for a single keyboard design, then maybe it's not the best use of your time to learn a CAD program like DraftSight. If you like learning new stuff that can be applied in other projects later, then learning it makes a lot of sense. These drawings are relatively simple, too; there is no third dimension to deal with. Help is available in many places, including Geekhack. DraftSight also has it's own forum, although it can be a bit technical. YouTube has a large volume of tutorials for using DraftSight, and I learn most easily by watching other people.

Dave  ☮

I suggest downloading one of the open source designs, then you can measure it.  Phantom or GH60 should work.

already sir,i download phantom.dxf how to edit sir on DrafSight? looks complex
any tutorial make with photshop? actually i can edit design plate sir.jd/matt30 though not neat
but i not sure they (laser cutting) workers understand

[yasuo]

youtube has a large selection of how to videos. I would search there.

link/keyword?

Probably language barrier

I mean,i hard to learn the program(DS)

I'm real new to all of this, so bear that in mind as you read. I have never used a CAD program before. I chose DraftSight. Like any new software, it takes a little time to learn, but there are many tutorials for this application, and that's a big help. It's also true that the more software you learn, the more "intuitive" the next app is to you.

When communicating with math, there is no language barrier. A CAD program is basically a way to do that in that by using it's interface, you can manipulate the geometry and all the related calculations with a relatively minimal knowledge of the mathematics required.  While CAD programs help you make illustrations which will help in human to human communication (one picture is worth a thousand words), their output is essential for use with laser cutters, plasma cutters, CNC routers, and so on. If you don't present a finished CAD drawing, you'll have to pay the laser cutter to do that. Not only can that get expensive, but the risk of error may be greater, especially when communication is difficult for one reason or another.

DraftSight allows you to manipulate the geometry by using your mouse. If there's an easy way to achieve the precision that's required using this method, I haven't found it. It also gives you a command line in the lower left corner which prompts you to make the next step. But if you want a line of a precise length, or a precise angle, or radius, using the command line is both relatively easy to learn, and extremely efficient.

Photoshop is primarily a raster drawing tool. That means that all your work is pixilated. If you try to enlarge or reduce dimensions, something is lost. You can test this by selecting the single row or column marquis tool to draw a 1px wide line across your canvas. Fill that marquis with a color that contrasts with the background color you used. What happens when you enlarge your image by varying amounts; be sure to look at an increase in image size by just 1 px.  Zoom in as far as PS allows; what do you see?

PS does include a pen tool, and that, like the pen tool in Illustrator, is a vector drawing tool. Do the same experiment as above with a single line you draw with the pen tool. When you zoom into your vector drawing, what do you see then? I believe that as long as you don't rasterize it, you can save it as a vector. At best, though, the precision the laser cutter software needs is challenging to obtain in PS. It's like, you can drive a small nail into wood with the handle of a screwdriver, but a hammer makes the job so much faster, and cleaner. I'm also not sure if PS will save in a file format a laser cutter can read.

If this is about making just one drawing for a single keyboard design, then maybe it's not the best use of your time to learn a CAD program like DraftSight. If you like learning new stuff that can be applied in other projects later, then learning it makes a lot of sense. These drawings are relatively simple, too; there is no third dimension to deal with. Help is available in many places, including Geekhack. DraftSight also has it's own forum, although it can be a bit technical. YouTube has a large volume of tutorials for using DraftSight, and I learn most easily by watching other people.

Dave  ☮

On finally, i want making a lot design,so maybe should learn DS own,can you give me link youtube/keyword?
i think i want learn KiCad also

Thank much Dave  ☮

[DaveB]

You're welcome, man. I should have thought to give you some links in my last message, so thanks for reminding me to do that. Try a couple of these:

YouTube - Beginning Tutorials
YouTube - Templates
YouTube - Move & Copy Tutorials
YouTube - Command Prompt
YouTube - Layers
YouTube - Options
DraftSight Forum

Dave ☮
Related threads in GeekHack





 

[yasuo]

You're welcome, man. I should have thought to give you some links in my last message, so thanks for reminding me to do that. Try a couple of these:

YouTube - Beginning Tutorials
YouTube - Templates
YouTube - Move & Copy Tutorials
YouTube - Command Prompt
YouTube - Layers
YouTube - Options
DraftSight Forum

Dave ☮
Related threads in GeekHack

i not sure so complex,maybe i want learn to the point
i hope laser cutting can read

Thanks a lot Dave

[DaveB]

Consider how complex Photoshop is. Imagine facing that for the first time without any experience with it at all. Now, ask yourself; aren't you glad you started learning it when you did? Remember when you first started learning Photoshop, if you were like me, the beginning was pretty slow, but even then, you were able to do some things with it. as you learn new tools in Photoshop, you continue to build on what you already know. Each time you want to do something, and follow a tutorial to learn that, you're adding new tools to your  tool box, and understanding just that much more about it. So, what were you saying about the complexity of DraftSight again?   ) Come on, man; you can do it! The hardest part is the first few steps.   

All those links...just start at the beginning, and progress through them when there's something you wanted to know. I included those because they are grouped topics that you'll want to learn sooner than later; knowing those things will make your life easier.

Dave ☮

[MOZ]

yasuo, I can help you with the designs, just not now, after new year for sure.

[yasuo]

Consider how complex Photoshop is. Imagine facing that for the first time without any experience with it at all. Now, ask yourself; aren't you glad you started learning it when you did? Remember when you first started learning Photoshop, if you were like me, the beginning was pretty slow, but even then, you were able to do some things with it. as you learn new tools in Photoshop, you continue to build on what you already know. Each time you want to do something, and follow a tutorial to learn that, you're adding new tools to your  tool box, and understanding just that much more about it. So, what were you saying about the complexity of DraftSight again?   ) Come on, man; you can do it! The hardest part is the first few steps.   

All those links...just start at the beginning, and progress through them when there's something you wanted to know. I included those because they are grouped topics that you'll want to learn sooner than later; knowing those things will make your life easier.

Dave ☮

yeah,i just learning,looks not complex now, i edit 40% jdcp
 i just not sure when lasser cutting the results different )
actually,when you design plate you measure or not? or just copy the sample and edit )

yasuo, I can help you with the designs, just not now, after new year for sure.

thanks much MOZ,no problems,i will waiting it
while  i learn too

[yasuo]

This chart keycap size
http://i.imgur.com/a462Ly8.png
i learn make plate difficult to make staggered than matrix
i think stab with costar easy to found
i not sure the spacing, i hope MOZ make better

[clickclack123]

I am trying a new approach for prototyping boards by mounting the base of the switch almost as if it is a PCB, ie drilling round holes in the plate and gluing the switch base to it. 4mm hole for the round bit, 1.5mm per pin (but you may need to make these larger for metal plates in case of accidental contact).

That way you can open up the switch easily and only need basic drilling skill to make the plate. Most (all?) MX switches use the same base and contact design, so you can change the stems and springs without having to remove the bases.

Downside is it may be hard to line up the switches exactly 90 degrees, but I'll try using a ruler against one edge when putting in a row / column of switches (depending which way the stagger goes for the particular design). Other downside is I don't have a drill press and I find it hard to drill without the bit "wandering" at the start.

My first attempt will be on 4mm acrylic. I may try making "channels" for the matrix wiring and diodes so you can cover them easily (flush underside) without needing to make a case. I also want to try LED edge lighting for overall backlighting

I love "GeekHacking"!

Show Image

I'm curious about how you went with this, because I'm thinking about trying something similar. It seems much easier than having to get into laser cutting or milling for a prototype.

Did the keys line up ok? Any photos of your attempts?

Do the keys feel the same as pcb or plate mounting?

[clickclack123]

I'm planning to make a custom hardwired board pretty closely based on AcidFire's 70% ergodox design:



Since it isn't a split design, I'm just planning to wire it to a single Teensy or Arduino Micro and use hasu's firmware.

I read somewhere (I think in this thread) that it would make things easier for me if the matrix was somewhat like the Phantom or GH60.

Can someone give me a couple of pointers on how to find out how the Phantom is wired, or any other suggestions on how to wire up the matrix?

edit:Actually I just found the Phantom pcb layout, I can go off that. But I'm still not sure how I should do the extra keys.

I suppose since the 70% ergodox layout is pretty different to the Phantom, it'd need a bit of tweaking to work.

Also, I'm wondering what material I should get the plate cut out of. I've been quoted about $85 for Stainless, $100 for Mild Steel, or $130 for Aluminum. I'm not too worried how it looks, to be honest. It's just a frame to hold the keys to me.

I'm planning to get it cut with overhanging tabs so that I can bend them over on the front, back and sides so I don't need any kind of stand. Is this a feasible thing to do without any proper tools for bending the plate? I'd just be doing using pliers and a vice. It's a 1.5mm plate. I have no idea how hard it will be to bend 1.5mm metal.

[Melvang]

I'm planning to make a custom hardwired board pretty closely based on AcidFire's 70% ergodox design:

Show Image

Since it isn't a split design, I'm just planning to wire it to a single Teensy or Arduino Micro and use hasu's firmware.

I read somewhere (I think in this thread) that it would make things easier for me if the matrix was somewhat like the Phantom or GH60.

Can someone give me a couple of pointers on how to find out how the Phantom is wired, or any other suggestions on how to wire up the matrix?

I suppose since the 70% ergodox layout is pretty different to the Phantom, it'd need a bit of tweaking to work.

Also, I'm wondering what material I should get the plate cut out of. I've been quoted about $85 for Stainless, $100 for Mild Steel, or $130 for Aluminum. I'm not too worried how it looks, to be honest. It's just a frame to hold the keys to me.

I'm planning to get it cut with so that I can bend over the front, back and sides so I don't need any kind of stand. Is this a feasible thing to do without any proper tools for bending the plate? I'd just be doing using pliers and a vice. It's a 1.5mm plate. I have no idea how hard it will be to bend 1.5mm metal.

I will tell you right now unless you have some good tools for this it will look like crap.  If you want to do this without having to design a case my suggestion would be to put some bolts/screws through the corners and just use nuts on the bottom with some glued on rubber/felt/foot material of choice.  I was in the US Navy for 5 years as an Aviation Structural Mechanic and currently work as a union Millwright.  My job in the Navy was working on the structural components, skin repairs, and hydraulic components.  So I have some experience with bending aluminum (this from the Navy), mild steel, and stainless.  Granted 1.5 mm isn't that thick unless you have at minimum a well equipped shop available it will be almost impossible to get it bent accurately, straight, and without scratching the crap out of it.  Not saying you couldn't get it done without but if you are going to go to this much time and effort to make this type of keyboard at least make it look nice.  My suggestion would be to find a shop that can do the laser cutting and the bends for you.  If you are already spending this money for getting the plate cut it shouldn't be that much more to have them bend it as well.

Melvang

[clickclack123]

I will tell you right now unless you have some good tools for this it will look like crap.  If you want to do this without having to design a case my suggestion would be to put some bolts/screws through the corners and just use nuts on the bottom with some glued on rubber/felt/foot material of choice.  I was in the US Navy for 5 years as an Aviation Structural Mechanic and currently work as a union Millwright.  My job in the Navy was working on the structural components, skin repairs, and hydraulic components.  So I have some experience with bending aluminum (this from the Navy), mild steel, and stainless.  Granted 1.5 mm isn't that thick unless you have at minimum a well equipped shop available it will be almost impossible to get it bent accurately, straight, and without scratching the crap out of it.  Not saying you couldn't get it done without but if you are going to go to this much time and effort to make this type of keyboard at least make it look nice.  My suggestion would be to find a shop that can do the laser cutting and the bends for you.  If you are already spending this money for getting the plate cut it shouldn't be that much more to have them bend it as well.

Melvang

OK, point taken. I'll ask about getting the bending done, and if it's too much, I'll get holes cut and use some kind of standoffs to keep the board off the table. I did think that the bending would add some kind of structural integrity to the plate.

You're right, if I'm spending this much, I should at least make it not look like crap.

Any advice about what metal to cut the plate out of? Would any choice be stiff enough? My current keyboard has steel and I like the feel of it, but I have stainless kitchen utensils and I like the feel of them just as much, and the stainless is slightly cheaper. 

As you can probably guess from my intention to bend it with pliers, I don't care so much about what kind of finish it will end up with, just I guess it would be better if it doesn't look like crap. 

Anyone got any advice about wiring the matrix?

[clickclack123]

So I finally found a use for the stylus on my Galaxy Note 3... 



8 columns, 5 rows for the left hand, and 5 rows for the right hand. Purple is columns, peach is links between columns, and green is rows.

So it shows up to the controller as 10 row by 8 column layout.

Since the Arduino Pro Micro has 18 pins usable for the matrix, I can make it a 10 row by 8 column layout, and save a few bucks by using a clone off ebay for $5 delivered!

I think this would be feasible but can someone pipe up if I'm overlooking something?

[zamphere]

Three 10 key PCBs from OSHpark would be $60.  This design would cost slightly more  keys.pdf (4.28 kB - downloaded 125 times.).  Can I really get a laser cut folded plate for significantly less?  How thick should the plate be?

[exitfire401]

Hey everyone! Reading this thread has taught me a lot, however, I'm horrible at both math, and doing anything CAD related (took two semesters of CAD in high school...barely passed) Would somebody be interested in assisting me with making a .dwg for a Race plate? I'll gladly return the favor with beer/pizza/whatever you do with your money, money =D

[jdcarpe]

Hey everyone! Reading this thread has taught me a lot, however, I'm horrible at both math, and doing anything CAD related (took two semesters of CAD in high school...barely passed) Would somebody be interested in assisting me with making a .dwg for a Race plate? I'll gladly return the favor with beer/pizza/whatever you do with your money, money =D

Shouldn't be a problem. I won't guarantee it will fit in the original case, however. The PCB itself is a very tight fit in the stock case, at least in mine. But at worst it would probably just mean some time spent with a file or dremel.

[exitfire401]

Hey everyone! Reading this thread has taught me a lot, however, I'm horrible at both math, and doing anything CAD related (took two semesters of CAD in high school...barely passed) Would somebody be interested in assisting me with making a .dwg for a Race plate? I'll gladly return the favor with beer/pizza/whatever you do with your money, money =D

Shouldn't be a problem. I won't guarantee it will fit in the original case, however. The PCB itself is a very tight fit in the stock case, at least in mine. But at worst it would probably just mean some time spent with a file or dremel.

Filing/dremeling I can handle! and preferably with the easy removal tabs? =D

[Lubed Up Slug]

Where do you all get your measurements from? I want to design my own plate but wouldn't know where to start with all the spacing

I just started with existing plate designs, i.e. Phantom and Poker.

Where would these existing plate designs be located?