leeku 1800 building

[IvanIvanovich]

I have received the leeku 1800, to finally realize dreams of winkeyless 1800 with more than 2KRO...

But, I seem to be lacking some direction and information and can't seem to find anything useful in English to help me along. Has anyone else successfully finished building and can you please share some tips?
I have populated it with switch, and I tried to use in switch diode, since it appear it should work... but it does nothing when I plug it in. Did I make a bad mistake with this assumption or some other problem? Does it need a firmware loaded, and if so which and where do I get it?

[digi]

Ivan, do you know which controller the board uses? I'm jelly of your build. Looks like some vintage blues you have in there too.. oOoOo

[Photoelectric]

This is a team RedLine PCB?  I don't know about the Leeku PCB, but normally they use ARM chips that come pre-programmed with closed-source firmware, so you should be able to just add your switches and use right away.  I'm guessing diodes came pre-soldered?  Does your computer recognize anything being plugged in at all?  Or it does but the keyboard doesn't respond?  If the former, I'd check the USB connection on the PCB.  If all is well, I'd check the soldering for all the chips on the PCB.

For reference, this is what the main controller looks like on a TRiK PCB



Someone posted photos recently of their keyboard not working (can't remember what it was, maybe a Keycool), and the controller had some broken solder connections.

[codyeatworld]

I bought one of these from zenuty, but recently sold it.

I never built it up unfortunately, but if i remember correctly he told me he needed to flash the firmware before he sent to me.

[Photoelectric]

There are no firmware files available from RedLine, so I don't know where he would get the files.  Still, if you look at the "PDS" portion of this site:
http://red-line.kr/
you will only find layout programming software--none comes with firmware, and all are for TRiK PCBs.

[IvanIvanovich]

It has Atmega32A. Either it has no firmware, or I did not build it in such a way it will be functional with only in switch diode. Looking at the pcb it may not be complete without resistor led and diode? I really don't understand a ****ing thing about circuits and such, but I can put things together if I know what it should have by following instructions. )
There is basically no information about how to build, and what to do with this so I am just fumbling in the dark really.

Good eye digi. I've got the vintage blues, green space and an odd white that is like 130cN on the esc.

Perhaps I will just redo it with white led everywhere but on WASD and Esc with red led... 
But taking out all those diodes  since I put them all in by hand already 

[Photoelectric]

I was under the impression that diodes were pre-soldered by RedLine normally, but it could be that they are not for this PCB.  Have you checked though that you're not doubling up on diodes?  Diodes are marked with "D#, and this is a TRiK PCB, so layout might be different)



Not sure about ATmega--I was under the impression that their stuff comes pre-programmed, as normally their keyboards have TRiK PCBs and use ARM chips with closed-source firmware.

Could you perhaps post some photos of your PCB: the controller area and some sample shots under the switches?

You don't need to add resistors and LEDs to make a board operational.

[digi]

If it had the ps2avrU, I could help ya with the firmware. That's the only firmware I've flashed, sorry.

[fourzeropooh]

Can I buy this in a GB?

[Photoelectric]

First one needs to find said firmware file, then think about loading it.  I'd definitely check the PCB first.

[Soarer]

But taking out all those diodes  since I put them all in by hand already 

Maybe a silly question, but are the diodes the right way round?

Also, does the computer see it as a keyboard?

[IvanIvanovich]

Computer installs as HID device, but nothing responds on keypresses. I put the diode inside switch same way they are in my G80 boards that have them. I will take picture of the back of PCB in a minute.
It didn't come with SMD diode preinstalled, and the sale thread said it would not.

[Photoelectric]

I wonder if this PCB has different polarity orientation from default Cherry (doesn't seem intuitive that it would, but worth checking).  There should be markers on the PCB to show diode polarity.

[IvanIvanovich]

There isn't much in the way of markings as I am used to... sorry for the crappy photo, the PCB is really shiny and it was very hard to get reasonable photo in this lighting. Obviously I still need SMD diode on key that I put LED in... and I am not sure what is going on with the Ctrl there so I didn't solder. 

Edit: D'oh! They did indeed make the diode backwards from Cherry! if I am seeing the line marking right, it would be on the A marking side of the switch.

[Soarer]

To see if that really is the problem, just short out switch and diode with your cutters or pliers to see if you get a keypress.

(I'm not sure about their markings either! Seems clear enough for the LED, but not the diode - indicated by the stripe?).

[Photoelectric]

I see the white bars next to the right-side holes for the through-hole diodes.  I'm guessing that's the direction the diode mark should be aligned.

[Soarer]

Ah, yes... easier to see on a single switch like 'Z'. And the SMD footprint matches that. Pretty sure Cherry have the stripe on the right, not the left.

[Photoelectric]

  Might be easier to just take out all the through-hole diodes and use SMD diodes?  They already have solder applied on the pads.  Relatively-speaking, as I've heard through-hole diodes are a pain to remove.  But perhaps there are other switches available already without diodes in them.

[IvanIvanovich]

Yep, looks like I will have to remove all those diodes since I did have them opposite of what the PCB wants. Why did they have to do the opposite of Cherry!?! I guess I might as well go full out and do complete backlight then and do SMD diodes... it will look more baller anyway. Defiantly not much more effort than switching the orientation of every diode I already put in there.

[IvanIvanovich]

Ok... can someone tell me good part number to look for that will work best? For SMD diode, and SMD resistor for white LED and for red LED? Also... anywhere to get those plastic spacer for under LED to elevate them for the lock light indicators to get them up close so the light dosen't spread and illuminate all the lock light dots on the little case plastic? I don't seem to have any for 3mm LEDs.

[Photoelectric]

SMD resistors: Alaric calculated ~730 Ohm for 3-3.4V LEDs (blue, white, magenta, purple, cyan) and ~1.2 kOhm for 1.8-2.2V LEDs (like red, orange, yellow, green):
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=39571.msg931242#msg931242
for TRiK PCBs.  Dunno about Leeku, but seems it could be similar.

My TRiK PCB came with 1.2kOhm resistors he soldered, and I've tried lots of different colors of LEDs on it, and everything works fine with that, but some of the 3-3.4V LEDs are on the dimmer side, especially magenta and blue, so it does seem reasonable to go with 730-1000 Ohm for those.  Green and red are nice and bright with 1.2kOhm, and some of the 3V LEDs that had high intrinsic mcd are quite bright even at 1.2 kOhm as well (like warm white).

Anyway, here are some good resistors you can get from mouser that would be proper spec:

1.2kOhm:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=ERJ-6ENF1201Vvirtualkey99990000virtualkey667-ERJ-6ENF1201V

806 Ohm:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=ERJ-6ENF8060Vvirtualkey66720000virtualkey667-ERJ-6ENF8060V

Those 1% tolerance Panasonic resistors come in many other resistance values--those are just the ones I settled on ordering for another board (and ming-approved )

You can get 2-3 resistance kinds and test them individually, by soldering 1 to a switch and inserting your LEDs, wiggle until contact is made, and see how you like the brightness level.

Spacers: I don't know if you're looking for something similar to Filco, but Jonathanyu has those available in vast quantities:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46758.0
(free + shipping)

[IvanIvanovich]

Thanks thats very helpful.

[zenuty]

I need a summary
Whats your problems ?

Did you tried conect with ps2 port ?
PCB is not same as TriK PCB.
Basically They pcb made  as same as ps2avr pcb.


* How to doing firmware update ?
http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/data/7034142

* Where is it DownLoad Newest Firmware Files ?
http://www3.kbdmania.net/xe/?module=file&act=procFileDownload&file_srl=7227704&sid=965e326e836dbac6365f5512d19e70ce

[zenuty]

I need a summary
Whats your problems ?

Did you tried conect with ps2 port ?
PCB is not same as TriK PCB.
Basically They pcb made  as same as ps2avr pcb.

PCB Name is MX-30xx NOMA and MX-18xx NOMA by LeeKu ( XX is means Noma )
This pcb is made for cherry vintage 3000 and 1800 users.


* How to doing firmware update ?
http://www.kbdmania.net/xe/data/7034142

* Where is it DownLoad Newest Firmware Files ?
http://www3.kbdmania.net/xe/?module=file&act=procFileDownload&file_srl=7227704&sid=965e326e836dbac6365f5512d19e70ce

[IvanIvanovich]

My first problem, I installed the diode 'backwards'... second problem was no firmwares so THANK YOU!
No access to file... apparently I have to wait until after 1 January... I hadn't joined there yet.

[The_Beast]

Any part numbers for the SMD diodes (mouser if possible)? Does mouser also have those strips to cut apart for easy LED removal? Don't they also have cherry PCB mount stabilizer (I just need the black ends, I have tons of wires)?

I should get to building this thing

[IvanIvanovich]

I got some 1N4148W-7-F SMD diode. It seem to be what many other keyboard kit use so I hope they are good here as well. Now I am just waiting for LED to arrive from colorfulplace before I go and redo it... I think it's funny it cheaper to buy 100 pack led from there than can pay for like 5 led from elsewhere. If anyone else building want red rectangle led let me know, I will have like 90 extras )

Stabs is Cherry part G99-0742... it looks like mouser have zero stock... only for one with 8x wire

[The_Beast]

I got some 1N4148W-7-F SMD diode. It seem to be what many other keyboard kit use so I hope they are good here as well. Now I am just waiting for LED to arrive from colorfulplace before I go and redo it... I think it's funny it cheaper to buy 100 pack led from there than can pay for like 5 led from elsewhere. If anyone else building want red rectangle led let me know, I will have like 90 extras )

Stabs is Cherry part G99-0742... it looks like mouser have zero stock... only for one with 8x wire

Thanks a ton!

I don't mind about the 8x wire, I just need the black part of the stabilizer, I already have tons of 2x, 6.25x and a few 7x (well, once the GH60 PCBs ship) but am short on the black ends

[dorkvader]

I got some 1N4148W-7-F SMD diode. It seem to be what many other keyboard kit use so I hope they are good here as well. Now I am just waiting for LED to arrive from colorfulplace before I go and redo it... I think it's funny it cheaper to buy 100 pack led from there than can pay for like 5 led from elsewhere. If anyone else building want red rectangle led let me know, I will have like 90 extras )

Stabs is Cherry part G99-0742... it looks like mouser have zero stock... only for one with 8x wire

I actually have two cherry kbs with 8x spacebars.

Also, I notice the diodes inc smd diodes eveyone gets (massdrop used them as well) are really expensive! Like 6 cents per diode! It's like 10x more than through hole.

[IvanIvanovich]

Meh, it was a part number I knew was suitable for purpose. I don't know enough about some of these things to go looking for other. I was almost tempted to give a go on straighten out the through holes I have inside the switch and solder them to the pads for the smd but decided that would probably be total ass.
Sure there are old keyboard out there with 8x-10x spacebar... but it just stuck me as odd that out of more common 2.x, 6.25, 7 sizes they decide to keep 8x in stock instead which has to be be far much less useful.

[The_Beast]

Just waiting for my smd diodes and resistors.

I'm using a Dolch case. Does anyone know how the "LED converter for DOLCH" thing on the top left of the keyboard works? Also, for the PS2 cable, do you use the pads to the left or right of the USB socket?

[IvanIvanovich]

I would guess the Dolch led adapter is just like the one on original, just wire it to the corresponding horizontal led mount below for the vertical arrangement. I guess the PS/2 are the ones marked for AVR above the numpad. I wish they would have put the mini USB there, so it would be in same place as where the cable come out on plastic 1800 case. It would have been really nice to have a detachable cable on the stock body.

[The_Beast]

Got my SMD stuff, should be fun....

[fourzeropooh]

Is there a place I can get a 1800 PCB pre SMD soldered?

[The_Beast]

Anyone know how to get the LEDs lit?

[IvanIvanovich]

Looking in the firmware files, it seems you need to press FN+Esc for LED control... but I have no clue what the Fn key is supposed to be... Perhaps it's something you need to decide and assign yourself? I am not sure.

[Photoelectric]

Try ~ if you can't identify anything obvious.  It's the default function key for TRiK--maybe it's the same for this PCB.

[danielucf]

Looking in the firmware files, it seems you need to press FN+Esc for LED control... but I have no clue what the Fn key is supposed to be... Perhaps it's something you need to decide and assign yourself? I am not sure.

Pause is function, to actually hit pause you need to hit function + Scroll Lock. Also function plus Esc is LED modes I think. I should be finishing my build tonight or tomorrow and know more.

[The_Beast]

Looking in the firmware files, it seems you need to press FN+Esc for LED control... but I have no clue what the Fn key is supposed to be... Perhaps it's something you need to decide and assign yourself? I am not sure.

Pause is function, to actually hit pause you need to hit function + Scroll Lock. Also function plus Esc is LED modes I think. I should be finishing my build tonight or tomorrow and know more.

Cool, thanks for the info

[danielucf]

I'm having a lot of keys not working and it could definitely be from several things. I'll troubleshoot in a bit since this is the first time I plugged it in, but it could be diodes, switches, or if one key isn't soldered right then the entire associated row wouldn't work right?

I think it is diodes or switches though because I don't see anything that would look like an entire row. Here is what isn't working:
F2 F3 F4 F5 F7 F10 Prtsc Paus += Home Num / U I \| Del End Num9 Capslock L Lshift Z ,< Num3 Lctrl Lalt Space Ralt.

The keys are vintage blues salvaged from a Dolch PAC and non of my diodes look reversed so I'm going to start there after making sure my diode solder joints are good.

[danielucf]

Phew I got all the keys working. Now to decide if I want full backlit or not. I did the N C S as pink per the wife' suggestion for what would go well with blue LEDs.

Some of the keys were bad where the mechanical mechanism inside was messed up, some of the keys had bad or broken diodes.

[whiskytango]

glad to hear it's working. i'm going full backlit. i just ordered diodes and resistors. about to order LEDs. I'm torn between blue and green, but I think I am going with green. Already got a g81 case and I have a plate in the mail... this is coming together finally.

hey. how are you guys connecting this PCB to your computer? Are you using the built in mini-USB connector or are you hard wiring a cable to the PCB, and if so, using the ps2 or usb interface? I'm just curious. I think I am going to cut a hole in the back of the g81 case so that I can use the USB quick detach feature.

[danielucf]

Mine was in the 1800 "LZ Skin" case so I used the USB. However I have a painted 1800 case, steel plate, and second leeku PCB I'm going to assemble. Will probably just connect the USB with a 90 degree adapter if I can and have it as a "permanent" cable. Unless I decide to get some kind of internal cable made so the USB port can be relocated to a different part of the case.

[MOZ]

Going to build mine over the weekend, in the Magic School Bus case.

[Pacifist]

Where did you buy the leeku pcb?

[MOZ]

Original GB by Team Redline.

[IvanIvanovich]

I think the other usb above F6 is meant to be used to solder a usb cable in place if using a Cherry 1800 plastic case. I don't really see it being easy to attach a mini usb inside there and have enough clearance to bend and route out the cable slot above the numpad. You could probably get away with that in a Dolch case since it has more room up there though.

I still haven't done anything more with mine... I utterly failed at trying to solder smd with my yihua. Debating on paying someone to finish it or just selling it as is along with my NIB G81-1800HAU white/black.

[AKmalamute]

I still haven't done anything more with mine... I utterly failed at trying to solder smd with my yihua. Debating on paying someone to finish it or just selling it as is along with my NIB G81-1800HAU white/black.

Oh, man -- I offered to hook you up but you said it was already scheduled. I mean, I may not be very good at it, but my weller 25w pen put 78 diodes down, and the multimeter says they're all functional.

 You know, so long as you don't want to use the holes around pads ...

[IvanIvanovich]

Yeah I know... like I said I have been trying to decide if I even want it at all. If I'm not going to keep it, I don't see the point in finishing it as it might not be what someone else would want and they would have to redo parts anyway.

[MOZ]

How are you loading the firmware, the instruction on KBD after translation are quite vague

[MOZ]

So I have the keyboard running and the LEDs working as well, however I can't find a way to remap keys, not sure if the KBDMania page has info on this, not from what google translate shows.

Any help would be much appreciated.

[ruckyzomg]

So i've finally found some time to get down to assembling this thing but i don't exactly know which part to solder the diodes onto. This is my first DIY keyboard  .



I purchased a bunch of 100v/200ma 1N4148 diodes. Are the diodes supposed to go on A or C?
LEDs are supposed to go on B i'm guessing. If so, do i need resistors on C?

Thanks in advance.

[MOZ]

A is resistors, no polarity so you can connect it in any direction
B is LEDs, with polarity mentioned, hole with bar gets "-" terminal, cathode, or shorter leg of the LED
C is diodes, with bar on the next to the cathode pad, so bar on the diode goes on that end

[Photekq]

Could somebody walk me through the firmware installation for use through PS2? I can't seem to get it working from the guides on kbdmania/otd.

I have it working fine through USB, just not PS2

[Photekq]

Could somebody walk me through the firmware installation for use through PS2? I can't seem to get it working from the guides on kbdmania/otd.

I have it working fine through USB, just not PS2

Nevermind, got it sorted. The way I did it was :

Hold down P, then plug it in via the USA port. Then let go of P and unplug it. Hold down P again and plug it in via the PS2 port. It should work through PS2 with full NKRO.

[Hak Foo]

Was there a sale of plates that went along with the Leeku PCBs?  I know if you're using MX switches, you can go board-mount, but ALPS seems to require something to attach the switches to... and since the cutouts are different, it's not like you can just buy a standard plate.

[IvanIvanovich]

I don't remember if there was separate plate available, but I am sure they had those options with the case that was offered for it.

[whiskytango]

The cases that went with the group buy had integral plates. To my knowledge, there were no separate plates. I think if you are going to go with alps, you will need something custom.

For MX, I have a plate from inlikeflynn's 1800 plate group buy to go with mine. I have installed my plate and switches, but embarrassingly have not done any more to get this keyboard built and working. It's on my short list though. Thanks to all of you who have posted solutions to the problems you have encountered while building this thing.

[danielucf]

Sorry to revive this thread, but I was wondering if anyone knew where to get the latest firmware for the board?

[CPTBadAss]

Last time I asked, this was the answer I got. Not sure if there is one or not tbh.

[danielucf]

Last time I asked, this was the answer I got. Not sure if there is one or not tbh.

So with an update file, what do I actually type to flash the firmware? I have the command prompt open and when I run bootloadhid.exe by itself I only get "usage: bootloadhid.exe [-r] [<intel-hexfile>]" so I imagine I need to tell it the hex file, but I'm unsure how exactly to do that. Also going to ask in the simple questions simple answers thread.

[danielucf]

To get the Leeku into bootloader mode I held escape and then plugged the USB in. The capslock LED kept flashing and this was to notify that it was actually ready to be flashed. I had a second keyboard plugged in and that is how I was able to type "bootloadhid.exe main_140611.hex enterprise" and hit enter. The program executed and updated the keyboard and I'm typing on it now. Hopefully this information is helpful to someone in the future.

[CPTBadAss]

Glad you figured it out daniel