Author Topic: Which mouse/trackball lasted the shortest amount of time on your desk (and why)?  (Read 2153 times)

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Offline Stupidface

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Which make/model of mouse/trackball have you used that lasted the shortest amount of time on your desk?

How long did it last?  (Days, perhaps?  Hours?  Minutes?)

Why did it not last long (e.g. slapdash build quality, cheap materials, poor ergonomic placement of buttons, too large/small for your hand, spontaneously combusted, etc.)






« Last Edit: Sat, 27 August 2022, 09:14:23 by Stupidface »

Offline drdstny

  • Posts: 6
Logi M575, lasted almost exactly 4 weeks.  Just failed last Thursday.

I bought it for my laptops (work and personal), used it on my Win10 machine a few times, then switched it to my work Macbook full-time, where it lasted daily use for 8 days.

Whether on Bluetooth or the dongle, the pointer skips across monitors with the slightest movement of the ball.  Sometimes, it works perfectly, but only for a few seconds.  Tried cleaning it out, didn't see any real smegma, tried alcohol on a Q-Tip, tried the whole restart/reinstall nonsense, even tried putting it back on the Win10 machine.  It's just bronked.

No idea why it failed.  I went back to carrying an M570 that I bought umpteen years ago and gave up on the idea of having one trackball for 2 laptops.  I'll move the dongle.

Offline noisyturtle

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Anything Mionix has been a huge disappointment for me. I've tried 3 Mionix mice, and all failed for different reasons within a year of purchase.

Offline suicidal_orange

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I have never bought a mouse without holding it first to test comfort and button placement and I've bought from the place where I could do this even when it's meant I paid 50% more than I needed to - overall  still cheaper than buying two mice in a month.  While not strictly accurate as it's still sat on my desk unused for over two years my shortest lived mouse was a Steelseries Rival 700, which started to skip as soon as I did the slightest bit of overclocking (and when the computer runs an old laptop CPU overclocking is significant and necessary)

When I upgrade the computer and if I find the need for pixel perfect accuracy I will give it another go but until then it will continue to gather dust.
120/100g linear Zealio R1  
GMK Hyperfuse
'Split everything' perfection  
MX Clear
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EasyAVR mod

Offline Leslieann

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This question is the reason I use wireless mice exclusively and took place well before anyone gamed with wireless mice.

I had just gotten a new desk recently and my mouse dies on me late at night just before a holiday, needing a mouse in a hurry to finish a job I ran to the closest store that would carry one and bought the cheapest mouse I could (Inland?) with the intent of getting another good mouse as soon as stores opened up again after the holiday.

Turned out my new desk had a sharp corner and it killed the new mouse in 3 hours.
Rather than replace the desk, when stores opened I bought a wireless Logitech mouse and never looked back. I took heat for years from people saying you couldn't game on wireless mice. Not true if you got a good one, a disadvantage maybe, but not enough to warrant the heat they took.
Novelkeys NK65AE w/62g Zilents/39g springs
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62g Zilents/lubed/Novelkeys 39g springs, HK Gaming Thick PBT caps, Netdot Gen10 magnetic cable, pic
| Filco MJ2 L.E. Vortex Case, Jailhouse Blues, heavily customized
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Vortex case squared up/blasted finish removed/custom feet/paint/winkey blockoff plate, HID Liberator, stainless steel universal plate, 3d printed adapters, Type C, Netdot Gen10 magnetic cable, foam sound dampened, HK Gaming Thick PBT caps (o-ringed), Cherry Jailhouse Blues w/lubed/clipped Cherry light springs, 40g actuation
| GMMK TKL
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w/ Kailh Purple Pros/lubed/Novelkeys 39g springs, HK Gaming Thick PBT caps, Netdot Gen10 Magnetic cable
| PF65 3d printed 65% w/LCD and hot swap
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Box Jades, Interchangeable trim, mini lcd, QMK, underglow, HK Gaming Thick PBT caps, O-rings, Netdot Gen10 magnetic cable, in progress link
| Magicforce 68
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MF68 pcb, Outemu Blues, in progress
| YMDK75 Jail Housed Gateron Blues
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J-spacers, YMDK Thick PBT, O-rings, SIP sockets
| KBT Race S L.E.
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Ergo Clears, custom WASD caps
| Das Pro
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Costar model with browns
| GH60
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Cherry Blacks, custom 3d printed case
| Logitech Illumininated | IBM Model M (x2)
Definitive Omron Guide.

Offline Arrinura

  • Posts: 7
I used to main the HK Gaming Mira S. I love how small and comfortable it feels but the mouse lasted from July 2020 to April 2022. I'm still not exactly sure what happened but around August 2021, ever since I plugged in my second mouse (which was the G-Wolves HSK), the mouse randomly started disconnecting. I thought maybe it didn't like USB 3.0 so I switched to USB 2.0 and it was fixed.. well, temporary fix. The more I used it, the more issues I ran into. The cursor sometimes teleport, spun out in-game and disconnects more often. There was one time I was browsing and the cursor teleported to the right corner of my screen and hit the exit button. Nice.

My guess was maybe it had something to do with these two mice specifically? Before I had a bunch of mice tested with my Mira S and never had any issues until the HSK was plugged in. Or maybe it's just the cable and pcb that straight up sucked. I don't know, I stopped thinking too much about it and went back to my Deathadder mini.


Offline jamster

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Elecom Huge. Wanted to like it as I had previously used a CST, but the Elecom had substandard bearings. I got rid of the Elecom before new ceramic bearings arrived (Covid shipping delays).

Offline mohawk1367

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I've never really bought a mouse that I didn't like. The only reason I'd swap my mouse is if a new mouse comes out that I like more.

Offline heretyk

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This was the only mouse I managed to wear out. Played a lot of mouse-games like Warcraft 1&2 in the mid 90's and the left switch died within a year or two. I got it swapped from the central button but afterwards it didn't last very long. I grinded pads due to extensive use and gave up at finding replacement.