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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Sagii on Sun, 27 April 2014, 03:52:01
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Okey, I did a quick search and didn't find any dedicated thread to gaming keyboards (there was over 30 sides though, didn't fancy checking all of 'em :p).
I'm on the lookout for a new gaming keyboard, so therefore I've turned my attention to the allmighty bunch of keyboardgurus on geekhack! I bought a K95 (Cherry reds) which I'm not too happy with at this very moment. I would like to still keep red or brown switches though.
What I'm wondering is if someone's got any suggestions? Comfort and a nice feel to it (both with typing, gaming, and how robust it is) is the two most important features.. Wether it has macros etc. or not isn't really a big deal.
I might add that I've considered buying the K70, just 'cause the K95 feels so damn big with all the macro keys. I dunno, it might just be me. Also, because the keys on the K series isn't lowered down into the KB it feels extremely high and therefore uncofortable, but that might just be me needing to change "setup" slightly..
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I don't think you specifically need to look for a gaming keyboard with all those flashy features. It sounds like you just need a suitable switch. What don't you like about the Cherry Reds? They're the kind of switch that people would recommend for gaming (Linear). Also, are you interested in having: 1. full keyboard, 2. no numpad, 3. no numpad and no arrow keys.
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there aren't many threads on gaming keyboards here because the general consensus among the community is that gaming products aren't of particularly high quality.
geekhack 2011: get a filco
geekhack 2013: get a CMstorm QuickFire Rapid
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Hmm... Okay, fair 'nuff! I will say the K series seems like they've got an extremely sturdy build though (unless it's me being a noob).
Anyways, that's kinda the problem.. I can't pinpoint what exactly I don't like about the K95 and the red switches. I thought I liked the red switches at first, but now I'm getting annoyed by too easily activating keys I don't want to activate, so I guess they are too light. I tried browns in a shop, and I'm not sure I liked them either >_> But maybe browns is what would be best suited, to avoid those annoying typos..
For wether or not I'd like a tenkeyless or not... I'm gonna be completely honest and say I don't know... I might be interested in a tenkeyless, just to try it. Everyone says it's so damn nice!
When I think about it, the K95 just feels "alien", it's like my hands can't nagivate. That is obviously because I've only spent a couple days with it though... AHHHH, choices >_< I really can't pinpoint one exact thing that makes me not like the K95.
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The red MX switch comes with a 45g switch, which is pretty light in my opinion as well. However, with a bit of work, if you're willing, you could swap out the springs with something heavier like 55g or 62g. Springs can be found here and they're pretty cheap.
http://www.originativeco.com/products/springs
I think this will solve your accidental keypress thing at the lowest cost.
EDIT: I never noticed before, but it seems like that the site reports that their 65g springs take less force to press than the 45g cherry springs.. can someone verify this? It seems odd.
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EDIT: I never noticed before, but it seems like that the site reports that their 65g springs take less force to press than the 45g cherry springs.. can someone verify this? It seems odd.
Well, they said that the reported force was the force needed to press them fully down. Is that maybe the explanation? I honestly don't know, I'm a complete novice to mechanical KBs!
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The red MX switch comes with a 45g switch, which is pretty light in my opinion as well. However, with a bit of work, if you're willing, you could swap out the springs with something heavier like 55g or 62g. Springs can be found here and they're pretty cheap.
http://www.originativeco.com/products/springs
I think this will solve your accidental keypress thing at the lowest cost.
EDIT: I never noticed before, but it seems like that the site reports that their 65g springs take less force to press than the 45g cherry springs.. can someone verify this? It seems odd.
Korean springs are measured in bottom out force rather than that of Cherry springs which are measured in actuation force.
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I'll just write a short list of recommendations:
Poker 2 - 60% form factor
Noppoo Choc mini - 75% form factor
Ducky Premier - Full size form factor
Keycool 84 - 75% form factor
CM Storm Quickfire Rapid - TKL form factor
Ducky Shine 3 - TKL & full size form factor
Filco Majestouch 2 - TKL & full size form factor
Any of these will suffice, you just gotta choose a layout and ask yourself how much you're willing to spend.
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R4zor with all new mechan1cal switchez! You can't lose with it, for gamerz by gamerz
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R4zor with all new mechan1cal switchez! You can't lose with it, for gamerz by gamerz
I sense abnormally large amounts of sarcasm in the air.
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Yeah, joking aside those "gaming" tags companies put on their products only adds on the price and nothing else. I suggest you research around a bit more before spending money :)
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For wether or not I'd like a tenkeyless or not... I'm gonna be completely honest and say I don't know... I might be interested in a tenkeyless, just to try it. Everyone says it's so damn nice!
To find out, you could ask yourself: Do I really use the keypad?
Smaller form factor keyboards are nice because they are not occupying "unecessary" space on the desk (in a gaming perspective, given you mainly use the WASD keys and a mouse). And the distance between left and right hand is shorter, which I find more comfortable.
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If you need a keyboard for gaming, you can easily get away with TKL board, but you will absolutely require a keyboard with a dedicated arrow cluster.
I have been using a 60% board as my main board for some time now, and having to use a function layer for arrows only causes me a problem with gaming. There are some games out there that are hard coded to arrow key cluster, or are difficult to remap. I have a separate NumPad to mitigate this to some extent, but I would recommend going no smaller than a TKL (or perhaps those Leopold boards with just an arrow cluster)
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I kinda agree with alot of the people here on their views of a gaming keyboard.
Before I stumbled upon geekhack, I was searching for a gaming keyboard as well. I wanted the razer blackwidow but I was looking at other models as well.
I ordered a switch tester online, came to geekhack, and I found out myself that really, you don't need a dedicated gaming keyboard.
Most gaming keyboards are like this: Fancy keyboard casing, backlit, macro keys, huge price tag. But really, inside they're pretty much the same as any other well build mechanical keyboard.
For example, if you buy a filco, ducky or even a poker, you'll still be able to game just as well as on a razer blackwidow, k95 etc, except that they don't have the extra macro keys. Heck these keyboards even come with media keys, albeit not dedicated, so you can still adjust the volume on your computer and all that.
More important is that you find out the switch you want, and those keyboards that people have mentioned before have more switch variety than those dedicated gaming keyboards out there.
Personally, I ended up with a KBT Pure as my first mechanical keyboard and I got it primarily to play games with it. I got red switches as double tapping feels better to me than on the other keyboards. As for backlighting, I bought a non backlit version so that I can buy the LEDs and solder them myself with more flexibility. Keycaps wise, I'm still waiting for the ones I like to come online in the groupbuy section. I also got an aluminium case for it.
At the end of the day, I got a nice personalized keyboard which didn't cost me any more than it should because of all the "gaming" features that other keyboards come with but yet I can still play as well. Whenever I underperform in game, I no longer have any reason to blame myself for having a lousy keyboard because I don't.
Here are my suggestions if you want to get a keyboard:
CM quickfire rapid - it's a gaming keyboard but it's one that alot of people start out with as their first mech kb.
Poker 2 - Good form factor, basically has all your essential keys, except maybe if you use function keys alot while gaming this could be a problem.
filco - good mech keyboard to have overall
ducky - good mech keyboard to have overall. plus with backlighting
tl;dr, any of those keyboards suggested here will perform. Doesn't have to be a dedicated gaming keyboard. Just choose your switches properly and you're done.
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Yeah, joking aside those "gaming" tags companies put on their products only adds on the price and nothing else. I suggest you research around a bit more before spending money :)
Haha, for sure :) But I did do a lot of research when it came to the corsair keyboards though, and I couldn't find anything but positive statements regarding them. And so far I'm extremely happy with looks, build quality and so forth. Biggest problem I have at the moment is that it just feels "alien", as stated earlier. I believe that it's just a matter of getting used to it, but I'm scared it might be more than that. Simply 'cause I have no experience with mech KBs. :-\
EDIT: I feel like I have to mention this: The reason I bought a K95 because it was no more expensive than the K70, and the K70 was maybe 20 bucks more expensive than any "normal" not gamingdedicated KB. And since the K95 and K70 are similar except the macro keys, I thought I might as well buy the K95 if I ever found myself needing them.
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If you need a keyboard for gaming, you can easily get away with TKL board, but you will absolutely require a keyboard with a dedicated arrow cluster.
I have been using a 60% board as my main board for some time now, and having to use a function layer for arrows only causes me a problem with gaming. There are some games out there that are hard coded to arrow key cluster, or are difficult to remap. I have a separate NumPad to mitigate this to some extent, but I would recommend going no smaller than a TKL (or perhaps those Leopold boards with just an arrow cluster)
yea this too. I forgot to mention about dedicated arrow cluster in your keyboard for gaming.
Personally I play dota 2 and don't use the arrow keys anyway. But if I do need them, the KBT pure lets you use the shift, R_ALT,R_CTRL, R_WIN keys as arrow keys which you can turn on or off. It isn't a perfect arrow cluster but it substitutes it quite well.
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If you need a keyboard for gaming, you can easily get away with TKL board, but you will absolutely require a keyboard with a dedicated arrow cluster.
I have been using a 60% board as my main board for some time now, and having to use a function layer for arrows only causes me a problem with gaming. There are some games out there that are hard coded to arrow key cluster, or are difficult to remap. I have a separate NumPad to mitigate this to some extent, but I would recommend going no smaller than a TKL (or perhaps those Leopold boards with just an arrow cluster)
yea this too. I forgot to mention about dedicated arrow cluster in your keyboard for gaming.
Personally I play dota 2 and don't use the arrow keys anyway. But if I do need them, the KBT pure lets you use the shift, R_ALT,R_CTRL, R_WIN keys as arrow keys which you can turn on or off. It isn't a perfect arrow cluster but it substitutes it quite well.
Games like Fez and BroForce use the arrow cluster for movement. It certainly helps to have a dedicated cluster for indie games, at least in my experience. having to use a function layer like I do on the HHKB get's very annoying very quickly with gaming. Any other time, it's fine.
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If you need a keyboard for gaming, you can easily get away with TKL board, but you will absolutely require a keyboard with a dedicated arrow cluster.
No. That depends on the specific game(s). None of the games I play require dedicated arrows. Besides, FN (left winkey) + WASD to get arrows > dedicated arrow keys.
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If I'm getting another mech KB, I will most likely get a TKL, just to get that outta the air. I'm not considering any smaller form factor than that tbh :) I'm very much considering a K70 With Browns.
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K70, meh... Get a keyboard with standard key sizes at least. :/
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K70, meh... Get a keyboard with standard key sizes at least. :/
Got a point there... But I'm not really considering changing any keycaps or anything in the near future, even though it might be a handy option to have though.
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The thing is, you might regret that when your stock keycaps become shiny after heavy usage. :p
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But is it only the spacebar and function keys that are not standarised, or is it all keys?
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The thing is, you might regret that when your stock keycaps become shiny after heavy usage. :p
This, and you might find hard sourcing after market caps cos of the "non-standard" bottom row.
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Just the bottom row AFAIK. Good quality keycaps makes a huge impact on the overall feel of the keyboard, btw.
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Just the bottom row AFAIK. Good quality keycaps makes a huge impact on the overall feel of the keyboard, btw.
This also, keycaps can change the feel significantly!
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Then I shall ask you another question! How "good" are the keycaps on the K95?
I tried a Logitech G710+ with browns, and that felt horrible in comparison to my K95. I kinda concluded that With me not liking Browns, but now when I think of it that was a keyboard set out for testing, so it's been used countless times, and was probably worn + being dirty, which might have had an impact on the overall feel.
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Thin ABS, not sure about the printing method, but they aren't doubleshot so they would not be considered good. The G710+ gave me my most horrendous typing experience ever. Browns + thin ABS + O-rings = awful. Trust me, Browns feel different without the O-rings that the G710+ has pre-installed. Not many stock keyboards have keycaps that are considered good. There are a few though, like the Ducky Premier which has some nice keycaps.
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Good thing it wasn't just me that didn't like the logitech... :p Causde I don't think I like reds, so I wanted to try browns, and got extremely confused when trying the logitech, cause then I hated the browns!
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Good thing it wasn't just me that didn't like the logitech... :p Causde I don't think I like reds, so I wanted to try browns, and got extremely confused when trying the logitech, cause then I hated the browns!
Haha ye, I went ahead and bought a QFR with browns just to make sure I didn't hate browns as much as I thought I did after trying the G710+. Didn't like browns regardless, but they felt way better on the QFR at least.
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Good thing it wasn't just me that didn't like the logitech... :p Causde I don't think I like reds, so I wanted to try browns, and got extremely confused when trying the logitech, cause then I hated the browns!
Haha ye, I went ahead and bought a QFR with browns just to make sure I didn't hate browns as much as I thought I did after trying the G710+. Didn't like browns regardless, but they felt way better on the QFR at least.
I think I might just stick with the K95 with reds for now, and see how it goes... Just now it feels kidna weird, and my fingers tense a lot cause I'm concentrating on doing everything right, so my hands hurt after playing/typing with this KB for an hour >_> and I'm always unsure wether I've activated a key or not.. Do you guys think I should buy Browns and try them instead? I mean.. A lot of the "symptoms" I have makes me think I should try and use Browns instead of reds (If I haven't mentioned it, blues are too loud.. My GF/flatmate would kill me :)) )
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Good thing it wasn't just me that didn't like the logitech... :p Causde I don't think I like reds, so I wanted to try browns, and got extremely confused when trying the logitech, cause then I hated the browns!
Haha ye, I went ahead and bought a QFR with browns just to make sure I didn't hate browns as much as I thought I did after trying the G710+. Didn't like browns regardless, but they felt way better on the QFR at least.
I think I might just stick with the K95 with reds for now, and see how it goes... Just now it feels kidna weird, and my fingers tense a lot cause I'm concentrating on doing everything right, so my hands hurt after playing/typing with this KB for an hour >_> and I'm always unsure wether I've activated a key or not.. Do you guys think I should buy Browns and try them instead? I mean.. A lot of the "symptoms" I have makes me think I should try and use Browns instead of reds (If I haven't mentioned it, blues are too loud.. My GF/flatmate would kill me :)) )
Since keyboards are all about personal preferences I can only give you my own personal opinion... I wouldn't buy browns honestly. They are called 'dirty reds' for a reason. It's because they just feel like scratchy reds, and the tactile bump is too small to notice most of the time. Instead of browns I'd go for ergo-clears, aka Clear stem + a very light spring. A superior brown switch kind of. Bigger bump, not as scratchy. That would require some modding etc, though.
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Just give you another option to look into, I bought a Func KB-460 for my gaming rig, and so far I am quite satisfied with it. It's well built, feel solid, and is quite affordable (at least in the EU).
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Just give you another option to look into, I bought a Func KB-460 for my gaming rig, and so far I am quite satisfied with it. It's well built, feel solid, and is quite affordable (at least in the EU).
Same problem with keycaps and bottom row though.
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Thank GOD I wasn't the only one who felt the Browns were sorta dirty reds... Thought I was some insane weirdo... Anyways, the only option I really have without cashing out huge amounts would be red, Brown, and blue. I live in Norway, which haven't got many options, unless you want to order internationally (huge ass transport fees), or pay for an insanely overpriced Product if they aren't "normal". Let's put it this way: a K70 Brown is more expensive than a K70 With reds, and we're talking 50 bucks here... this is only due to the fact that a K70 With Browns is less usual than With reds...
And sorry for all these damn Capital letters, using one of the other computers in the house, and it has some weirdass correctionprogram >_>
If I'm gonna get a New KB (and Return the K95) now, it would probably be to get one With Brown switches, so if it hasn't got Brown switches I think it's outta the question tbh. Just can't be bothered going through the mailsystem, getting my Money back, waiting for a New order, etc. etc.
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Corsair quickfire has my vote for a TKL
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Corsair quickfire has my vote for a TKL
Same here, too bad it doesn't exist. :(
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Corsair quickfire has my vote for a TKL
If only such board existed :))
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Just give you another option to look into, I bought a Func KB-460 for my gaming rig, and so far I am quite satisfied with it. It's well built, feel solid, and is quite affordable (at least in the EU).
Same problem with keycaps and bottom row though.
True, but Sagii said he wasn't really sure to change caps in the future, so I thought it was worth mentioning.
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Layout:
From personal experience, I think that the layout in a Choc Mini/Keycool 84/KBT Race is the best for gaming. For League/Starcraft, it's nice to have the F row directly above the number row. Compact layout lets you have your mouse hand closer to your WASD/QWER hand, and once you get used to it you really can't ever go back to full size for gaming (or even TKL [personal opinion]. Not sure how expensive this would be for you, though. I really hope more are available.
Switches
Blues are inferior for gaming, anyone who says otherwise has not looked at how the switch actually works. But you're already on the right path leaning towards reds. Once you've tried lubed ergo clears it's impossible to even look at brown switches.
I would say for FPS I prefer reds (or 65g red/blacks), and for RTS kind games I prefer my ergo clears (or even blues if I'm playing some low APM like Gragas in League or SK in Dota
If you have questions on brown vs clear, let me know! I have done extensive testing with them using various springs/caps.
Edit: I don't hate blues. I love them! My first mech switch, actually. But from a true gaming perspective they BLOW. Will not budge my opinion on this.
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Layout:
From personal experience, I think that the layout in a Choc Mini/Keycool 84/KBT Race is the best for gaming. For League/Starcraft, it's nice to have the F row directly above the number row. Compact layout lets you have your mouse hand closer to your WASD/QWER hand, and once you get used to it you really can't ever go back to full size for gaming (or even TKL [personal opinion]. Not sure how expensive this would be for you, though. I really hope more are available.
Switches
Blues are inferior for gaming, anyone who says otherwise has not looked at how the switch actually works. But you're already on the right path leaning towards reds. Once you've tried lubed ergo clears it's impossible to even look at brown switches.
I would say for FPS I prefer reds (or 65g red/blacks), and for RTS kind games I prefer my ergo clears (or even blues if I'm playing some low APM like Gragas in League or SK in Dota
If you have questions on brown vs clear, let me know! I have done extensive testing with them using various springs/caps.
Well, you nailed which games I play.. I'm an avid League player (been since slightly after beta). And the TKL and smaller form factor is really intruiging... And for what you're saying when it comes to RTS and ergo Clears, have you got any recommendations of KBs With those Stock? Or is the ergo Clears something you have to mod yourself?
Sorry, but I honestly know nothing about all of this, tryin to learn as much as I can! ^^
EDIT: Okey, I'm stupid.. A quick Google search on ergo Clears answered my question. Anyways, for a TKL, have you got any other good suggestions than those Three, 'cuase none of them are really available in Norway :c
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Layout:
From personal experience, I think that the layout in a Choc Mini/Keycool 84/KBT Race is the best for gaming. For League/Starcraft, it's nice to have the F row directly above the number row. Compact layout lets you have your mouse hand closer to your WASD/QWER hand, and once you get used to it you really can't ever go back to full size for gaming (or even TKL [personal opinion]. Not sure how expensive this would be for you, though. I really hope more are available.
Switches
Blues are inferior for gaming, anyone who says otherwise has not looked at how the switch actually works. But you're already on the right path leaning towards reds. Once you've tried lubed ergo clears it's impossible to even look at brown switches.
I would say for FPS I prefer reds (or 65g red/blacks), and for RTS kind games I prefer my ergo clears (or even blues if I'm playing some low APM like Gragas in League or SK in Dota
If you have questions on brown vs clear, let me know! I have done extensive testing with them using various springs/caps.
Well, you nailed which games I play.. I'm an avid League player (been since slightly after beta). And the TKL and smaller form factor is really intruiging... And for what you're saying when it comes to RTS and ergo Clears, have you got any recommendations of KBs With those Stock? Or is the ergo Clears something you have to mod yourself?
Sorry, but I honestly know nothing about all of this, tryin to learn as much as I can! ^^
I just modded a Pure to have 62g Lubed Ergo Clear. Just say, they really are amazing. Overyhyped? Yes, I will be first to say Ergo Clear and the switch with T-word (WILL NOT START THAT HERE) are both overhyped.
Stock clears I still say are AMAZING! They are just a bit heavy for gaming. I did game on my Shine II with stock clears. The switches were fine (not as good as ergo for gaming, imo. I like light switches for gaming, heavier for typing). I hated the Full Size layout too much...great for work, terrible for gaming.
To be honest, you could get away with blues on League. However, I hate it when I'm playing someone like Anivia or Riven who require higher APM, I stick to more reliable switches (reds/clear). If you have gotten used to the middle-press actuation on a red, you will hate blues because you need to rest the key all the way before the click will actuate (key press will still work with middle hovering, but you will not get the click and that can REALLY throw you off...unreliable!). You only get the click in blues if you release all the way, but the mid point actuation still applies (it is cherry, after all).
Do you currently have more questions about layout or switch? We should narrow down a switch first or a layout first, then decide on the next. Also, be careful on this site. You might become a keyboard addict! Not that it's a bad thing.
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Layout:
From personal experience, I think that the layout in a Choc Mini/Keycool 84/KBT Race is the best for gaming. For League/Starcraft, it's nice to have the F row directly above the number row. Compact layout lets you have your mouse hand closer to your WASD/QWER hand, and once you get used to it you really can't ever go back to full size for gaming (or even TKL [personal opinion]. Not sure how expensive this would be for you, though. I really hope more are available.
Switches
Blues are inferior for gaming, anyone who says otherwise has not looked at how the switch actually works. But you're already on the right path leaning towards reds. Once you've tried lubed ergo clears it's impossible to even look at brown switches.
I would say for FPS I prefer reds (or 65g red/blacks), and for RTS kind games I prefer my ergo clears (or even blues if I'm playing some low APM like Gragas in League or SK in Dota
If you have questions on brown vs clear, let me know! I have done extensive testing with them using various springs/caps.
I actually disagree. First for the 84 layout you need to get used to (not worth it for the extra 2 cm you will get) opposed to lets say a TKL which has the same layout with everyday standard keyboard that most people have used before switching to mech and the spacing between the keys on the function row can be quite useful for touch typing/gaming. Overall I don't like the 84 boards because you can't find decent set for them and would not go down that road. Second the switch type is personal preference, I play sc and sc2 on daily basis with blues and find them better (for me) than any other switch. OP should try for himself, switch tester is one option..
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Layout:
From personal experience, I think that the layout in a Choc Mini/Keycool 84/KBT Race is the best for gaming. For League/Starcraft, it's nice to have the F row directly above the number row. Compact layout lets you have your mouse hand closer to your WASD/QWER hand, and once you get used to it you really can't ever go back to full size for gaming (or even TKL [personal opinion]. Not sure how expensive this would be for you, though. I really hope more are available.
Switches
Blues are inferior for gaming, anyone who says otherwise has not looked at how the switch actually works. But you're already on the right path leaning towards reds. Once you've tried lubed ergo clears it's impossible to even look at brown switches.
I would say for FPS I prefer reds (or 65g red/blacks), and for RTS kind games I prefer my ergo clears (or even blues if I'm playing some low APM like Gragas in League or SK in Dota
If you have questions on brown vs clear, let me know! I have done extensive testing with them using various springs/caps.
I actually disagree. First for the 84 layout you need to get used to (not worth it for the extra 2 cm you will get) opposed to lets say a TKL which has the same layout with everyday standard keyboard that most people have used before switching to mech and the spacing between the keys on the function row can be quite useful for touch typing/gaming. Overall I don't like the 84 boards because you can't find decent set for them and would not go down that road. Second the switch type is personal preference, I play sc and sc2 on daily basis with blues and find them better (for me) than any other switch. OP should try for himself, switch tester is one option..
Of course, it's all personal preference! To be honest, it took me maybe a week to get used to the Choc Mini's layout. Worth the learning curve, I believe! Having F row directly above number row is REALLY handy once you get used to it. In league, F1 = self view, F2 = 2nd players view, F3 = 3rd etc. Can be handy if you want to spot around the map quickly while still hitting perfect CS (necessary if you want to hit higher than Plat).
I have seen on this forum recently that there are issues with Choc Minis lately? Might want to check on that. I will say that mine has had 0 issues and the pom caps that came with it are the best feeling [OPINION~~~!!] for any linear or tactile switch. For clicky switches I actually like thick PBT most. Again, this is all opinion and is probably extra to OP's main issue.
If you ask me "do keycaps affect feel," I would say yes most of the time. But in gaming after you've done your warmup sessions I would answer "not really."
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Layout:
From personal experience, I think that the layout in a Choc Mini/Keycool 84/KBT Race is the best for gaming. For League/Starcraft, it's nice to have the F row directly above the number row. Compact layout lets you have your mouse hand closer to your WASD/QWER hand, and once you get used to it you really can't ever go back to full size for gaming (or even TKL [personal opinion]. Not sure how expensive this would be for you, though. I really hope more are available.
Switches
Blues are inferior for gaming, anyone who says otherwise has not looked at how the switch actually works. But you're already on the right path leaning towards reds. Once you've tried lubed ergo clears it's impossible to even look at brown switches.
I would say for FPS I prefer reds (or 65g red/blacks), and for RTS kind games I prefer my ergo clears (or even blues if I'm playing some low APM like Gragas in League or SK in Dota
If you have questions on brown vs clear, let me know! I have done extensive testing with them using various springs/caps.
Well, you nailed which games I play.. I'm an avid League player (been since slightly after beta). And the TKL and smaller form factor is really intruiging... And for what you're saying when it comes to RTS and ergo Clears, have you got any recommendations of KBs With those Stock? Or is the ergo Clears something you have to mod yourself?
Sorry, but I honestly know nothing about all of this, tryin to learn as much as I can! ^^
I just modded a Pure to have 62g Lubed Ergo Clear. Just say, they really are amazing. Overyhyped? Yes, I will be first to say Ergo Clear and the switch with T-word (WILL NOT START THAT HERE) are both overhyped.
Stock clears I still say are AMAZING! They are just a bit heavy for gaming. I did game on my Shine II with stock clears. The switches were fine (not as good as ergo for gaming, imo. I like light switches for gaming, heavier for typing). I hated the Full Size layout too much...great for work, terrible for gaming.
To be honest, you could get away with blues on League. However, I hate it when I'm playing someone like Anivia or Riven who require higher APM, I stick to more reliable switches (reds/clear). If you have gotten used to the middle-press actuation on a red, you will hate blues because you need to rest the key all the way before the click will actuate (key press will still work with middle hovering, but you will not get the click and that can REALLY throw you off...unreliable!). You only get the click in blues if you release all the way, but the mid point actuation still applies (it is cherry, after all).
Do you currently have more questions about layout or switch? We should narrow down a switch first or a layout first, then decide on the next. Also, be careful on this site. You might become a keyboard addict! Not that it's a bad thing.
To narrow it Down on a switch: Brown or red... both pretty much Equal, doesn't matter which one. For form factor, let's say TKL, I'm really intruiged by how they look. And those saying I should get a switch tester, problem is once again that it aint available, and would be quite expensive to order from outside Norway (AFAIK).
Summary: I want a TKL, With red or Brown switches. Bombard me With suggestions allmightykeyboardenthuisasts! :D
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There are no keyboards with blacks avalible around you?
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There are no keyboards with blacks avalible around you?
I remember seeing ONE somewhere.. But I'm pretty sure I wouldn't like blacks. I dunno.. I just got a feeling I won't like them.
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There are no keyboards with blacks avalible around you?
I remember seeing ONE somewhere.. But I'm pretty sure I wouldn't like blacks. I dunno.. I just got a feeling I won't like them.
Well this is another one of those threads that you can't really give a good answer. This due to preferences of switches, I might like blues, but for you it may be the complete opposite. Would suggest you buying a switch tester or something similair and trying out for yourself. I'm rocking lubed blues and it's pretty sweet even in gaming!
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There are no keyboards with blacks avalible around you?
I remember seeing ONE somewhere.. But I'm pretty sure I wouldn't like blacks. I dunno.. I just got a feeling I won't like them.
Well this is another one of those threads that you can't really give a good answer. This due to preferences of switches, I might like blues, but for you it may be the complete opposite. Would suggest you buying a switch tester or something similair and trying out for yourself. I'm rocking lubed blues and it's pretty sweet even in gaming!
As I've stated a couple times I'm not really in a position to get the switch tester :/ And when it comes to the switches, I don't really except a "definite" answer on that one.. I started this thread mostly to see if anyone had any good suggestions for a KB ^^
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There are no keyboards with blacks avalible around you?
I remember seeing ONE somewhere.. But I'm pretty sure I wouldn't like blacks. I dunno.. I just got a feeling I won't like them.
Well this is another one of those threads that you can't really give a good answer. This due to preferences of switches, I might like blues, but for you it may be the complete opposite. Would suggest you buying a switch tester or something similair and trying out for yourself. I'm rocking lubed blues and it's pretty sweet even in gaming!
As I've stated a couple times I'm not really in a position to get the switch tester :/ And when it comes to the switches, I don't really except a "definite" answer on that one.. I started this thread mostly to see if anyone had any good suggestions for a KB ^^
If your local electronics shop sells mechanical keyboards they might let you try one! For me blacks aren't my type of switch but some love them. You maybe want to pick up something cheap in the classifieds forum just to try it out, that would be my go to!
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Stock Clears are great and can be modded later to ErgoClears once they have worn in and you gain some skill with a soldering iron. Browns are decent, though, IMHO, and I use them on my two most used boards (DIY ergonomic board and a KBT Pure). They help a lot to remedy typos and are still nice and light to press.
Boards with Clears are pretty hard to find, though.
If you like backlighting (or even if you don't since you can switch it off) then this is a good option: https://www.teraset.net/product_details.php?p=10023#.U10aFFeyqt8
Nordic Ducky Shine 3 TKL with Browns.
The Ducky G2Pro has partial backlighting (WASD cluster) and some came with Clears, but they're hard to find.
This could also be a candidate: http://cdon.fi/kodin_elektroniikka/cooler-master/cooler-master-storm-quickfire-tk-brown-cherry-p23693084
Sorry for the Finnish, the sites automatically select the language based on my locale.... Can be VERY frustrating sometimes.
I find I am very used the default spacing of a normal board for gaming, so I like to find the arrow keys and function keys where my fingers are used to finding them. So in that sense a "standard" TKL like the Ducky is good. The stock layout also means you can find full keycap sets that will fit easily. On the other hand I get Defect's point about the compact 75% boards, since the keys are closer together.
For me, the ultimate gaming board is my DIY ergo board due to the thumb keys and layers, etc. Don't have to move my hands at all and I can have up to 45 keys (plus Tab and Backspace) bound with just one hand ;) 60 if the game recognises capitals differently from lower case.
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I haz G2pro with Clears 4 sale, OP. ;PpPPp
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There are no keyboards with blacks avalible around you?
I remember seeing ONE somewhere.. But I'm pretty sure I wouldn't like blacks. I dunno.. I just got a feeling I won't like them.
Blacks used to be the go to "gaming switch" back when reds were exceedingly rare. The only reason I mention them is that earlier you said you didn't like how light the reds were, and blacks are just stiffer reds. There's no accidental keypresses with blacks.
You never really know how you'll feel about a switch until you try it yourself
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Okey, just a quick question; what are the benefits/downsides of a clear switch? Is it basically a heavier brown, with a much more pronounced tactile feedback? And would it be suited for gaming as well as typing?
I haz G2pro with Clears 4 sale, OP. ;PpPPp
Have you actually? Not sure if there is some sarcasm I should pick up there!
If so, which layout? Is it nordic? :p
What do you guys think of the quickfire TK? And which formfactor is it ? O_o The arrowkeys and numpad is merged into one, does that mean it has the same form factor as a TKL ?
And I do have the option to buy a cmstorm QFR with cherry mx brown or reds.. Right now the nontactile feedback of the reds kinda annoy me.. I'm always unsure wether I've actuated a key or not. However, I tried browns on a logitech G710+ and didn't like it at all (as said earlier in this thread), it felt like the reds were dirty. Would I feel the same with QFR, or is it basically just poor quality on the G710+ ? I know it is all personal preference, but I still want to hear you guys opinions :)
And one more problem I have with the QFR is that it ain't backlit, which is pretty much a must for me.
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Okey, just a quick question; what are the benefits/downsides of a clear switch? Is it basically a heavier brown, with a much more pronounced tactile feedback? And would it be suited for gaming as well as typing?
I haz G2pro with Clears 4 sale, OP. ;PpPPp
Have you actually? Not sure if there is some sarcasm I should pick up there!
If so, which layout? Is it nordic? :p
What do you guys think of the quickfire TK? And which formfactor is it ? O_o The arrowkeys and numpad is merged into one, does that mean it has the same form factor as a TKL ?
And I do have the option to buy a cmstorm QFR with cherry mx brown or reds.. Right now the nontactile feedback of the reds kinda annoy me.. I'm always unsure wether I've actuated a key or not. However, I tried browns on a logitech G710+ and didn't like it at all (as said earlier in this thread), it felt like the reds were dirty. Would I feel the same with QFR, or is it basically just poor quality on the G710+ ? I know it is all personal preference, but I still want to hear you guys opinions :)
And one more problem I have with the QFR is that it ain't backlit, which is pretty much a must for me.
I do. ISO layout, with black engraved PBT keys. German legends, not Nordic. It's a TKL.
The QFTK is quite OK, idk what % form factor it is, but it's like a full-size keyboard which is only SLIGHTLY bigger than a regular TKL like the QFR. The TK does have that whacky bottom row, though.
Stock browns will feel like dirty reds on both the QFR and G710+... What makes the switches feel extremely weird/bad (subjective of course) is the o-rings. The switches are the same.
The QFR-I (new model) is backlit, btw. The G2Pro w/ Clears isn't fully backlit either for your information.
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Okey, just a quick question; what are the benefits/downsides of a clear switch? Is it basically a heavier brown, with a much more pronounced tactile feedback? And would it be suited for gaming as well as typing?
I haz G2pro with Clears 4 sale, OP. ;PpPPp
Have you actually? Not sure if there is some sarcasm I should pick up there!
If so, which layout? Is it nordic? :p
What do you guys think of the quickfire TK? And which formfactor is it ? O_o The arrowkeys and numpad is merged into one, does that mean it has the same form factor as a TKL ?
And I do have the option to buy a cmstorm QFR with cherry mx brown or reds.. Right now the nontactile feedback of the reds kinda annoy me.. I'm always unsure wether I've actuated a key or not. However, I tried browns on a logitech G710+ and didn't like it at all (as said earlier in this thread), it felt like the reds were dirty. Would I feel the same with QFR, or is it basically just poor quality on the G710+ ? I know it is all personal preference, but I still want to hear you guys opinions :)
And one more problem I have with the QFR is that it ain't backlit, which is pretty much a must for me.
I do. ISO layout, with black engraved PBT keys. German legends, not Nordic. It's a TKL.
The QFTK is quite OK, idk what % form factor it is, but it's like a full-size keyboard which is only SLIGHTLY bigger than a regular TKL like the QFR. The TK does have that whacky bottom row, though.
Stock browns will feel like dirty reds on both the QFR and G710+... What makes the switches feel extremely weird/bad (subjective of course) is the o-rings. The switches are the same.
The QFR-I (new model) is backlit, btw. The G2Pro w/ Clears isn't fully backlit either for your information.
Hmm... Okay.. cause the problem I have at the moment is that I'm never sure wether I've pressed a key or not, so I keep pausing every now and then, which is really really annoying, but I do it out of reflexes.
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Okey, just a quick question; what are the benefits/downsides of a clear switch? Is it basically a heavier brown, with a much more pronounced tactile feedback? And would it be suited for gaming as well as typing?
I haz G2pro with Clears 4 sale, OP. ;PpPPp
Have you actually? Not sure if there is some sarcasm I should pick up there!
If so, which layout? Is it nordic? :p
What do you guys think of the quickfire TK? And which formfactor is it ? O_o The arrowkeys and numpad is merged into one, does that mean it has the same form factor as a TKL ?
And I do have the option to buy a cmstorm QFR with cherry mx brown or reds.. Right now the nontactile feedback of the reds kinda annoy me.. I'm always unsure wether I've actuated a key or not. However, I tried browns on a logitech G710+ and didn't like it at all (as said earlier in this thread), it felt like the reds were dirty. Would I feel the same with QFR, or is it basically just poor quality on the G710+ ? I know it is all personal preference, but I still want to hear you guys opinions :)
And one more problem I have with the QFR is that it ain't backlit, which is pretty much a must for me.
I do. ISO layout, with black engraved PBT keys. German legends, not Nordic. It's a TKL.
The QFTK is quite OK, idk what % form factor it is, but it's like a full-size keyboard which is only SLIGHTLY bigger than a regular TKL like the QFR. The TK does have that whacky bottom row, though.
Stock browns will feel like dirty reds on both the QFR and G710+... What makes the switches feel extremely weird/bad (subjective of course) is the o-rings. The switches are the same.
The QFR-I (new model) is backlit, btw. The G2Pro w/ Clears isn't fully backlit either for your information.
Hmm... Okay.. cause the problem I have at the moment is that I'm never sure wether I've pressed a key or not, so I keep pausing every now and then, which is really really annoying, but I do it out of reflexes.
You most likely won't have that problem with Clears. They are very tactile and it's pretty easy to not bottom out etc.
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Okey, just a quick question; what are the benefits/downsides of a clear switch? Is it basically a heavier brown, with a much more pronounced tactile feedback? And would it be suited for gaming as well as typing?
I haz G2pro with Clears 4 sale, OP. ;PpPPp
Have you actually? Not sure if there is some sarcasm I should pick up there!
If so, which layout? Is it nordic? :p
What do you guys think of the quickfire TK? And which formfactor is it ? O_o The arrowkeys and numpad is merged into one, does that mean it has the same form factor as a TKL ?
And I do have the option to buy a cmstorm QFR with cherry mx brown or reds.. Right now the nontactile feedback of the reds kinda annoy me.. I'm always unsure wether I've actuated a key or not. However, I tried browns on a logitech G710+ and didn't like it at all (as said earlier in this thread), it felt like the reds were dirty. Would I feel the same with QFR, or is it basically just poor quality on the G710+ ? I know it is all personal preference, but I still want to hear you guys opinions :)
And one more problem I have with the QFR is that it ain't backlit, which is pretty much a must for me.
I do. ISO layout, with black engraved PBT keys. German legends, not Nordic. It's a TKL.
The QFTK is quite OK, idk what % form factor it is, but it's like a full-size keyboard which is only SLIGHTLY bigger than a regular TKL like the QFR. The TK does have that whacky bottom row, though.
Stock browns will feel like dirty reds on both the QFR and G710+... What makes the switches feel extremely weird/bad (subjective of course) is the o-rings. The switches are the same.
The QFR-I (new model) is backlit, btw. The G2Pro w/ Clears isn't fully backlit either for your information.
Hmm... Okay.. cause the problem I have at the moment is that I'm never sure wether I've pressed a key or not, so I keep pausing every now and then, which is really really annoying, but I do it out of reflexes.
You most likely won't have that problem with Clears. They are very tactile and it's pretty easy to not bottom out etc.
But how are they for RTS and FPS ? :/
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Every switch works fine for all types of games (RTS, MOBA, MMO, FPS etc) it's just about personal preferences really.
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Argh.. I really want the QFR, but it's not backlit >_< I've kinda decided to try browns instead.. Just cause everyone says the typos you get with reds aren't as noticeable with browns. And I might get used to them.
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Sounds like the Ducky Shine 3 TKL I linked to will do the job. Nordic layout, full backlighting with different modes, Brown switches, TKL layout and the quality is really good, better than a Coolermaster Quickfire Rapid (double sided PCB, slightly better quality parts and build quality overall). A bit more expensive, but worth it.
Teraset sell to all Nordic countries. ;)
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Sounds like the Ducky Shine 3 TKL I linked to will do the job. Nordic layout, full backlighting with different modes, Brown switches, TKL layout and the quality is really good, better than a Coolermaster Quickfire Rapid (double sided PCB, slightly better quality parts and build quality overall). A bit more expensive, but worth it.
Teraset sell to all Nordic countries. ;)
Indeed... but then again, that one is quite darn expensive. Or else I woulda bought it at once!
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Argh.. I really want the QFR, but it's not backlit >_< I've kinda decided to try browns instead.. Just cause everyone says the typos you get with reds aren't as noticeable with browns. And I might get used to them.
Cooler Master came out with a backlit version of the QFR, but its like $150 :x At that price, you may as well get a nice Ducky Shine 3 and call it a day.
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Argh.. I really want the QFR, but it's not backlit >_< I've kinda decided to try browns instead.. Just cause everyone says the typos you get with reds aren't as noticeable with browns. And I might get used to them.
Cooler Master came out with a backlit version of the QFR, but its like $150 :x At that price, you may as well get a nice Ducky Shine 3 and call it a day.
Yeah... But over to the Ducky.. I have no experience with it. Is it worth it at that price?
EDIT: You know what... The only TKL KB I can seem to find with a norwegian/nordic layout is actually the CM Storm QFR which hasn't got backlighting :c Seems like I'm destined to never have a TKL...
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Argh.. I really want the QFR, but it's not backlit >_< I've kinda decided to try browns instead.. Just cause everyone says the typos you get with reds aren't as noticeable with browns. And I might get used to them.
Cooler Master came out with a backlit version of the QFR, but its like $150 :x At that price, you may as well get a nice Ducky Shine 3 and call it a day.
Yeah... But over to the Ducky.. I have no experience with it. Is it worth it at that price?
EDIT: You know what... The only TKL KB I can seem to find with a norwegian/nordic layout is actually the CM Storm QFR which hasn't got backlighting :c Seems like I'm destined to never have a TKL...
Hint: Spillsjappa.no
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I believe Ducky Nordic also sells those layouts not sure about availability though..
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I believe Ducky Nordic also sells those layouts not sure about availability though..
Yep, epsy, there's one ducky shine 2 there. WITH cherry mx browns actually. But a nooby question; is it backlit? There's basically NO information whatsoever on spillsjappa, so if I buy I don't know if I get purple light, blue, white, green, or anything at all really >_>
And there's a site called ducky nordic, which hasn't opened yet
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Yes Ducky shine is backlit hense ''Shine'' stands for :))
http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/ducky-nordic-keyboards-keycaps-projects-and-misc-stuff-t4718.html?hilit=ducky%20nordic
try this.
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I believe Ducky Nordic also sells those layouts not sure about availability though..
Yep, epsy, there's one ducky shine 2 there. WITH cherry mx browns actually. But a nooby question; is it backlit? There's basically NO information whatsoever on spillsjappa, so if I buy I don't know if I get purple light, blue, white, green, or anything at all really >_>
And there's a site called ducky nordic, which hasn't opened yet
http://www.spillsjappa.no/ducky-yyy-tkl-mx-brown-engraved-pbt-nordisk - The "YYY" is also a Shine 3, albeit with much higher quality keycaps, but they're not backlit friendly. There's a Shine 3 Full-size with MX Browns & White LEDs there, too. Just e-mail them about the Shine 2 if you're interested in knowing the LED color I guess.
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Yes Ducky shine is backlit hense ''Shine'' stands for :))
http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/ducky-nordic-keyboards-keycaps-projects-and-misc-stuff-t4718.html?hilit=ducky%20nordic
try this.
Already been looking at teraset, and the total cost with shipping, tax etc., will land at around 280USD. Unless I checked out the shine 3, can't really remember :))
And guys, don't lynch me for saying this, but it seems like I have two options (if I want backlit), a ducky shine 2 which I got absolutely no clue how will look, besides it being a TKL with cherry MX brown, or a razer blackwidow tournament edition.
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I know that feel, in the part of EU I live it is even harder sourcing mech boards not even talking about the one you like..
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I believe Ducky Nordic also sells those layouts not sure about availability though..
Yep, epsy, there's one ducky shine 2 there. WITH cherry mx browns actually. But a nooby question; is it backlit? There's basically NO information whatsoever on spillsjappa, so if I buy I don't know if I get purple light, blue, white, green, or anything at all really >_>
And there's a site called ducky nordic, which hasn't opened yet
http://www.spillsjappa.no/ducky-yyy-tkl-mx-brown-engraved-pbt-nordisk - The "YYY" is also a Shine 3, albeit with much higher quality keycaps, but they're not backlit friendly. There's a Shine 3 Full-size with MX Browns & White LEDs there, too. Just e-mail them about the Shine 2 if you're interested in knowing the LED color I guess.
Yeah, I've sent them an email. Just took me a couple years to find their support email! 'cause I'm too dumb to scroll down >_>
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Anyway, you can always look for a used keyboard here on GH (classifieds), Deskthority.net (marketplace) or reddit.com/r/mechmarket. Tell the buyer to mark the package as a gift and X value under $170 to dodge customs.
I bought two Filco Majestouch 2's and a Realforce 88u from thekeyboardco.com, Ducky Mini & Ducky Shine 3 Yellow Edition from Teraset.net... Never going to pay that ridiculous VAT ever again for a keyboard or anything keyboard related. :p
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Anyway, you can always look for a used keyboard here on GH (classifieds), Deskthority.net (marketplace) or reddit.com/r/mechmarket. Tell the buyer to mark the package as a gift and X value under $170 to dodge customs.
I bought two Filco Majestouch 2's and a Realforce 88u from thekeyboardco.com, Ducky Mini & Ducky Shine 3 Yellow Edition from Teraset.net... Never going to pay that ridiculous VAT ever again for a keyboard or anything keyboard related. :p
Hm, do some people have nordic layouts, or have you just bought other layouts?
When it comes to Ducky Shine 2, what I've gathered is that Ducky is a good company, and the Shine 2 is of good quality? You all seem to like Ducky a lot here on GH.
I'm going to wait and see what the lighting etc. on the ducky shine 2 is, and I'm gonna try and test out the cherry mx brown in a shop somewhere (NOT the G710+!!) and see if I like it. If everything match up, I'll probably buy the ducky shine 2 :D
And thank you so much for being so damn patient with me, every single one of you :) I'm so far having an extremely pleasant first encounter with GH!
EDIT: Ladies and gents, it's official. The Ducky Shine 2 TKL with cherry brown on Spillsjappa.no has green backlighting! So.. for 170$, do you guys mean it's worth it? :)
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Anyway, you can always look for a used keyboard here on GH (classifieds), Deskthority.net (marketplace) or reddit.com/r/mechmarket. Tell the buyer to mark the package as a gift and X value under $170 to dodge customs.
I bought two Filco Majestouch 2's and a Realforce 88u from thekeyboardco.com, Ducky Mini & Ducky Shine 3 Yellow Edition from Teraset.net... Never going to pay that ridiculous VAT ever again for a keyboard or anything keyboard related. :p
Hm, do some people have nordic layouts, or have you just bought other layouts?
When it comes to Ducky Shine 2, what I've gathered is that Ducky is a good company, and the Shine 2 is of good quality? You all seem to like Ducky a lot here on GH.
I'm going to wait and see what the lighting etc. on the ducky shine 2 is, and I'm gonna try and test out the cherry mx brown in a shop somewhere (NOT the G710+!!) and see if I like it. If everything match up, I'll probably buy the ducky shine 2 :D
And thank you so much for being so damn patient with me, every single one of you :) I'm so far having an extremely pleasant first encounter with GH!
Many people from Scandinavia around... I told you I bought those keyboards @ retail... meanign I paid the crazy custom fees/VAT. Yeah Ducky Shine's are regarded as good stock keyboards everywhere. I haven't had a Shine 2, but I do believe it's pretty much the same as the Shine 3. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong). If you only find a G710+ you could bring a keycap puller and pop a key off and remove the o-ring so you'll get the real feel of browns. :)
Np! :p
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I have ONE last question (it probably won't be that last :rolleyes:): what separates Ducky Shine 2 from let's say the K95 og K70? It's about the same price, and other than the lighting, I can't see how it's any better? >_<
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The corsair board are open boards without top case unlike the Ducky which are more "standard". Also The ducky boards have some lighting effect you can choose and that is pretty much it. Oh and the different bottom layout as well.. Search through google or YT you can find the differences, watch some reviews..
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The corsair board are open boards without top case unlike the Ducky which are more "standard". Also The ducky boards have some lighting effect you can choose and that is pretty much it. Oh and the different bottom layout as well.. Search through google or YT you can find the differences, watch some reviews..
I've watched tons.. That's basically why I can't understand why it would be better to buy a Ducky Shine 2 than anything else in the same price range, which simply has more options. I was wondering why it seems like many on GH etc. like the Ducky KBs so much. I understand the lighting features and build quality ofc, but other than that? To me a K95 (I'm just using this as an example cause I've got one) seems more than sturdy enough.
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Then buy the k95! Are you worried someone does not going to like your keyboard? Cos it sounds like it.. If it is your first mech you won't notice a difference and will be satisfied with whatever you'll get at first, that's the way it is and how most of us started. You got to be sure what you like to be in a position to choose between things. People here would prefer the ducky over the k95 for a couple reasons like no unnecessary macro keys, more "normal" case design (this is arguable), variety (switches/LEDs), layout, reputation etc etc..
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Corsair quickfire has my vote for a TKL
Same here, too bad it doesn't exist. :(
Corsair quickfire has my vote for a TKL
If only such board existed :))
sorry im such a retard lol. CM QFR
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Then buy the k95! Are you worried someone does not going to like your keyboard? Cos it sounds like it.. If it is your first mech you won't notice a difference and will be satisfied with whatever you'll get at first, that's the way it is and how most of us started. You got to be sure what you like to be in a position to choose between things. People here would prefer the ducky over the k95 for a couple reasons like no unnecessary macro keys, more "normal" case design (this is arguable), variety (switches/LEDs), layout, reputation etc etc..
You misunderstood the whole thing I was asking about... I'm not worried about what other's might think of the keyboard or anything.
You answered my question with the last sentence of your reply, that's what I was asking for. I'm sadly not a keyboard expert, that's why I've come here, and I wanted to hear if there was something about the Ducky I just didn't grasp, even though I've watched/read lots of review, just 'cause I know nothing about this stuff.
Please don't get annoyed. Trust me, I'm not one of those guys who goes "Well, Razer is obviously the best for gaming, because it's made for gamers!" or "I need those macros!!"
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The corsair board are open boards without top case unlike the Ducky which are more "standard". Also The ducky boards have some lighting effect you can choose and that is pretty much it. Oh and the different bottom layout as well.. Search through google or YT you can find the differences, watch some reviews..
I've watched tons.. That's basically why I can't understand why it would be better to buy a Ducky Shine 2 than anything else in the same price range, which simply has more options. I was wondering why it seems like many on GH etc. like the Ducky KBs so much. I understand the lighting features and build quality ofc, but other than that? To me a K95 (I'm just using this as an example cause I've got one) seems more than sturdy enough.
1. Quality of components used and build quality.
2. Layout and keycap compatibility. Quite many "gaming" keyboards use weird layouts or different sized keycaps than standard. Look at the bottom row of the Corsair boards for example. You can tweak the feeling and sound of the switches and the looks of the board with different keycaps. Standard thin ABS keycaps often sound "clicky" and high pitched when bottoming out, medium thick PBT are more "clacky", lower pitched and really thick PBT or POM caps are even lower pitch, kind of "thocky". Sorry for the strange words, it's kind of hard to describe. Quality board + quality caps = premium feel... nice.
3. Less of a factor, but related to number 2, aftermarket case and plate compatibility. It depends how far you take the hobby, but some like to customise their boards with custom plates or cases as well as keycaps and having a compatible layout / design gives you more options.
Ducky tend to use standard ANSI and ISO layouts and they have proper Nordic ISO layout and keycap sets (they also have some nice PBT sets in Nordic ISO). I've actually bought an ANSI layout board mainly due to the number of ANSI keycap sets as opposed to ISO. Many Group Buys here at GH include ISO kits so they will fit any standard ANSI or ISO board, but some are only ANSI.
P.S. - Norway is expensive..... Finland is too, but not as bad.
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sorry im such a retard lol. CM QFR
We know we are just joking around :))
To OP: I am not slightly annoyed and I am just trying to help. Searching for the little things that change almost everything is half the fun in this hobby. Those differences does not make the Ducky better board over the Corsair, it is just a preference. You would be better checking out yourself even if it means spending more money, I know plenty of people that would prefer the Corsair over other boards.
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Looks like micro from the picture.
Also looks rubberized (hope I'm wrong)
sorry im such a retard lol. CM QFR
We know we are just joking around :))
To OP: I am not slightly annoyed and I am just trying to help. Searching for the little things that change almost everything is half the fun in this hobby. Those differences does not make the Ducky better board over the Corsair, it is just a preference. You would be better checking out yourself even if it means spending more money, I know plenty of people that would prefer the Corsair over other boards.
Okey, good :) I'm impressed with your patience.. all of you really! When I started this thread yesterday I knew practically nothing about mechanical keyboards, now I feel like I know the whole world! Anyways.. The TKL Ducky Shine 2 is really tempting. And when thinking about, the only thing it doesn't have, compared to the K95 are macro keys, and dedicated media keys, both of which I don't really need. I do however have to buy a separate wristrest, but buying a Ducky TKL is getting ever so slightly more tempting!
And BTW, if I ever get interested in changing keycaps etc on a ducky shine 2, that would most likely not be a problem? ^^ Sigh.. I thought that was something that would never even come to mind.. but now I'm already considering buying som keycaps while I order the shine 2... GH, what have you done to me?!
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Light has a harder time going through thick PBT, one of the reasons I don't bother with back lighting on my favorite boards. Also because I never actually look ar my boards when I use them. Not sure about Thin PBT. Still, I like thick PBT on reds, blacks, and clears. Only POM beats Thick PBT for those switches.
For clicky I forget, will have to find my notes.
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LEDs shines through thick PBT just fine, it just depends on if the PBT is dark or light colored.
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Light has a harder time going through thick PBT, one of the reasons I don't bother with back lighting on my favorite boards. Also because I never actually look ar my boards when I use them. Not sure about Thin PBT. Still, I like thick PBT on reds, blacks, and clears. Only POM beats Thick PBT for those switches.
For clicky I forget, will have to find my notes.
Hmm, I dunno. I'm a touchtypist and almost never look down on my KB when typing/gaming. But nonetheless, I get extremely annoyed when I don't have backlit keys. I guess it comes to finding F keys, caps, tab, media keys etc.
That's basically why I'm sceptical of getting a board without backlighting >_<
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Light has a harder time going through thick PBT, one of the reasons I don't bother with back lighting on my favorite boards. Also because I never actually look ar my boards when I use them. Not sure about Thin PBT. Still, I like thick PBT on reds, blacks, and clears. Only POM beats Thick PBT for those switches.
For clicky I forget, will have to find my notes.
Hmm, I dunno. I'm a touchtypist and almost never look down on my KB when typing/gaming. But nonetheless, I get extremely annoyed when I don't have backlit keys. I guess it comes to finding F keys, caps, tab, media keys etc.
That's basically why I'm sceptical of getting a board without backlighting >_<
Just get white keycaps and use Lux ULT to check your F row. It's low enough CD and you probably have Athene's
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Light has a harder time going through thick PBT, one of the reasons I don't bother with back lighting on my favorite boards. Also because I never actually look ar my boards when I use them. Not sure about Thin PBT. Still, I like thick PBT on reds, blacks, and clears. Only POM beats Thick PBT for those switches.
For clicky I forget, will have to find my notes.
Hmm, I dunno. I'm a touchtypist and almost never look down on my KB when typing/gaming. But nonetheless, I get extremely annoyed when I don't have backlit keys. I guess it comes to finding F keys, caps, tab, media keys etc.
That's basically why I'm sceptical of getting a board without backlighting >_<
Just get white keycaps and use Lux ULT to check your F row. It's low enough CD and you probably have Athene's
You, my fine Sir, made me laugh at loud!
And I just noticed something very interesting with my red switches; as long as I look down on the keyboard I have absolutely no problem with typing, at it feels a lot more comfortable, but as soon as I start touchtyping I start having the problems as mentioned earlier in the thread, with stopping up, being unsure etc.
Maybe all that''s needed is to get used to it, after all O.o I still want to try out browns, and if I like them, I'll buy the Ducky one ^^
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....snip...
Okey, good :) I'm impressed with your patience.. all of you really! When I started this thread yesterday I knew practically nothing about mechanical keyboards, now I feel like I know the whole world! Anyways.. The TKL Ducky Shine 2 is really tempting. And when thinking about, the only thing it doesn't have, compared to the K95 are macro keys, and dedicated media keys, both of which I don't really need. I do however have to buy a separate wristrest, but buying a Ducky TKL is getting ever so slightly more tempting!
And BTW, if I ever get interested in changing keycaps etc on a ducky shine 2, that would most likely not be a problem? ^^ Sigh.. I thought that was something that would never even come to mind.. but now I'm already considering buying som keycaps while I order the shine 2... GH, what have you done to me?!
Welcome to wallethack ;) I have more keycap sets than keyboards (3 boards, 5 caps sets) and have joined in Group Buys to get even more (5 more sets on their way)... At least I have settled on which sets are staying on 2 of my boards (for the moment), the third board will get whichever caps I like the most of the new sets I ordered :)
The Ducky will be able to use any standard ISO set, or an ANSI set with ISO conversion set. Or you can get just an ISO modifiers set and a different set for the alpha and number keys.... or... hehehe..
Then you have to try different materials (ABS, PBT, POM), thicknesses and profiles... Maybe you should just stick with the Corsair and save your wallet before it's too late! (just joking, it's nice to have options)
I like backlighting even with thick PBT keys, the LED's make a nice background glow under the caps.
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....snip...
Okey, good :) I'm impressed with your patience.. all of you really! When I started this thread yesterday I knew practically nothing about mechanical keyboards, now I feel like I know the whole world! Anyways.. The TKL Ducky Shine 2 is really tempting. And when thinking about, the only thing it doesn't have, compared to the K95 are macro keys, and dedicated media keys, both of which I don't really need. I do however have to buy a separate wristrest, but buying a Ducky TKL is getting ever so slightly more tempting!
And BTW, if I ever get interested in changing keycaps etc on a ducky shine 2, that would most likely not be a problem? ^^ Sigh.. I thought that was something that would never even come to mind.. but now I'm already considering buying som keycaps while I order the shine 2... GH, what have you done to me?!
Welcome to wallethack ;) I have more keycap sets than keyboards (3 boards, 5 caps sets) and have joined in Group Buys to get even more (5 more sets on their way)... At least I have settled on which sets are staying on 2 of my boards (for the moment), the third board will get whichever caps I like the most of the new sets I ordered :)
The Ducky will be able to use any standard ISO set, or an ANSI set with ISO conversion set. Or you can get just an ISO modifiers set and a different set for the alpha and number keys.... or... hehehe..
Then you have to try different materials (ABS, PBT, POM), thicknesses and profiles... Maybe you should just stick with the Corsair and save your wallet before it's too late! (just joking, it's nice to have options)
I like backlighting even with thick PBT keys, the LED's make a nice background glow under the caps.
The nice thing is that I can return my Corsair and get my money back! The Ducky will actually land at a lower price than the K95 :D And I kinda want the TKL now, after realising how much space it actually occupies ^^'
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Great thread!
ROCCAT Ryos MK Pro <- This is getting a lot of nice press although even the most glowing reviews mention poor warranty and support.
Logitech 710+ and Corsair K70 get mentioned a lot but you all have already discussed that.
How do you all feel about WASD keyboards, Das, and Deck these days?
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Great thread!
ROCCAT Ryos MK Pro <- This is getting a lot of nice press although even the most glowing reviews mention poor warranty and support.
Logitech 710+ and Corsair K70 get mentioned a lot but you all have already discussed that.
How do you all feel about WASD keyboards, Das, and Deck these days?
Biggest problem is getting a nordic layout without massive "customs" (that's not really what it is, but I have to pay 24% of the items cost extra). I can however do as Epsy said, and buy from here, and get it sent as a "gift", but I just simply dont know where to start looking at everything.. it is so damn much to take in at once O_o (I just started learning about mechs yesterday :)))
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I personally would not buy any of those you've mentioned.
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I personally would not buy any of those you've mentioned.
The RYOS is outta question really. Same with G710+.. I do however have the K70 in the back of my head.. But atm I want to try and finmd a TKL ^^,
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I personally would not buy any of those you've mentioned.
I am looking over the Duckys as well per what I've seen in this thread.
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Most gaming boards are all bling and no show.
Classy LED backlit keyboards are the Trigger Z and the CM Storm MECH even though it has a edgy design. Still isn't a "gaming keyboard" in any sense.
The upcoming CM Storm QFR-SI should be interesting if just a bit more than the QFR
Trust me on this, I use both the Trigger Z and CM Storm MECH. You'll be wanting MX Blacks. Also, don't bother with browns. If you don't like noise neither are blues but blues feel fantastic. There are MX Clears but I don't really like them are they are limited in production also.
Oh yeah btw, korean 80g spring = cherry 60g or thereabout.
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Most gaming boards are all bling and no show.
Gaming according to marketing:
Full Size, Blue/Green LED, MX Blue, USB
True gaming from engineering/science:
Compact (84, TKL), Red (low energy) or no LED, Red switch (or black), PS/2.
Not counting ergo clears which are the most versatile MX switch imo.
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Most gaming boards are all bling and no show.
Classy LED backlit keyboards are the Trigger Z and the CM Storm MECH even though it has a edgy design. Still isn't a "gaming keyboard" in any sense.
The upcoming CM Storm QFR-SI should be interesting if just a bit more than the QFR
Trust me on this, I use both the Trigger Z and CM Storm MECH. You'll be wanting MX Blacks. Also, don't bother with browns. If you don't like noise neither are blues but blues feel fantastic. There are MX Clears but I don't really like them are they are limited in production also.
Oh yeah btw, korean 80g spring = cherry 60g or thereabout.
Isn't that just plain and simple personal preference? I don't really care as to what is the most "effective" switch... I just want one that I can feel comfortable typing on, while still suitable for gaming :) And AFAIK, I'll just have to try the different ones and see what I like!
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Most gaming boards are all bling and no show.
Gaming according to marketing:
Full Size, Blue/Green LED, MX Blue, USB
True gaming from engineering/science:
Compact (84, TKL), Red (low energy) or no LED, Red switch (or black), PS/2.
Not counting ergo clears which are the most versatile MX switch imo.
I'd like to know... what's the science/engineering?
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Most gaming boards are all bling and no show.
Classy LED backlit keyboards are the Trigger Z and the CM Storm MECH even though it has a edgy design. Still isn't a "gaming keyboard" in any sense.
The upcoming CM Storm QFR-SI should be interesting if just a bit more than the QFR
Trust me on this, I use both the Trigger Z and CM Storm MECH. You'll be wanting MX Blacks. Also, don't bother with browns. If you don't like noise neither are blues but blues feel fantastic. There are MX Clears but I don't really like them are they are limited in production also.
Oh yeah btw, korean 80g spring = cherry 60g or thereabout.
Isn't that just plain and simple personal preference? I don't really care as to what is the most "effective" switch... I just want one that I can feel comfortable typing on, while still suitable for gaming :) And AFAIK, I'll just have to try the different ones and see what I like!
It's not personal preference.
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Yo, guys! A quick update.. I've now had the chance to try out browns (still a G710+, but I took off some of the O-rings and tried), and I did actually like it quite a bit.. felt better without the O-rings (at least on the G710+). I also tried blues, at least the closest I could get, which was the green razer switches, which AFAIK are pretty similar, and I honestly LOVED the feel of those. Sadly they are way too noisy, so I guess the perfect switch for me would be clears. However, I haven't seen a single board with a nordic layout that actually offers that, so unless I find one in the very near future, my next board will be a Ducky Shine 2 with browns switches and green LED (only colour available :c).
Oh btw, I just realised, does anyone remember from the top of their head wether teraset sells the shine 3 with clears (is it available in clears, even?)?
I'll check myself as soon as I have the opportunity, but I can't right now ^^'
Okey, they don't :c
EDIT: I'm realising now that it isn't THAT hard to find (it IS possible).. Just that I really haven't got the knowledge, nor the time needed to obtain the knowledge (I had my first exam today, and two coming up in the following three weeks :eek:), needed before I venture out into the wonderful world of keyboardmarketing outside the "normal" computer shops.
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Yo, guys! A quick update.. I've now had the chance to try out browns (still a G710+, but I took off some of the O-rings and tried), and I did actually like it quite a bit.. felt better without the O-rings (at least on the G710+). I also tried blues, at least the closest I could get, which was the green razer switches, which AFAIK are pretty similar, and I honestly LOVED the feel of those. Sadly they are way too noisy, so I guess the perfect switch for me would be clears. However, I haven't seen a single board with a nordic layout that actually offers that, so unless I find one in the very near future, my next board will be a Ducky Shine 2 with browns switches and green LED (only colour available :c).
Oh btw, I just realised, does anyone remember from the top of their head wether teraset sells the shine 3 with clears (is it available in clears, even?)?
I'll check myself as soon as I have the opportunity, but I can't right now ^^'
Okey, they don't :c
EDIT: I'm realising now that it isn't THAT hard to find (it IS possible).. Just that I really haven't got the knowledge, nor the time needed to obtain the knowledge (I had my first exam today, and two coming up in the following three weeks :eek:), needed before I venture out into the wonderful world of keyboardmarketing outside the "normal" computer shops.
The other question to ask yourself is "Do I really NEED Nordic layout?"
I know you need to be able to type Norwegian characters, but you can do that with any layout. The ; key is just mapped to ö, etc. The reason I say this is that I live in Finland and own a few different layout boards. I have a Ducky and a Roccat with Nordic layout, a KBT Pure with US ANSI layout and a Microsoft board with UK ISO layout. I can switch between them easily and in fact I find the US and UK layouts best for programming (brackets and ; are in good places). You can install extra layouts in Windows and switch them with Alt-Shift. I have become used to the ANSI small enter key very easily. In fact the Pure is my favourite board at the moment.
The other reason is that there are a lot more US ANSI keycap sets available than Nordic ISO. And I like to have a lot of choice in keycaps.
If you decide you can live with ANSI layout there is the Code keyboard: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard/code-87-key-mechanical-keyboard.html#ad-image-0
US ANSI layout, but TKL, MX Clears and backlighting. Also has multimedia shortcuts. Shipping and customs could be expensive, though.
If you NEED Nordic ISO, you could send them an email about making one of these for you with Clears and Nordic caps: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-v2-88-key-iso-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html#ad-image-0
Another option is to get any Nordic layout Ducky Shine TKL and a bag of Cherry MX Clear switches and desolder all the LED's and switches and replace them...... But that's a lot of work.
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Yo, guys! A quick update.. I've now had the chance to try out browns (still a G710+, but I took off some of the O-rings and tried), and I did actually like it quite a bit.. felt better without the O-rings (at least on the G710+). I also tried blues, at least the closest I could get, which was the green razer switches, which AFAIK are pretty similar, and I honestly LOVED the feel of those. Sadly they are way too noisy, so I guess the perfect switch for me would be clears. However, I haven't seen a single board with a nordic layout that actually offers that, so unless I find one in the very near future, my next board will be a Ducky Shine 2 with browns switches and green LED (only colour available :c).
Oh btw, I just realised, does anyone remember from the top of their head wether teraset sells the shine 3 with clears (is it available in clears, even?)?
I'll check myself as soon as I have the opportunity, but I can't right now ^^'
Okey, they don't :c
EDIT: I'm realising now that it isn't THAT hard to find (it IS possible).. Just that I really haven't got the knowledge, nor the time needed to obtain the knowledge (I had my first exam today, and two coming up in the following three weeks :eek:), needed before I venture out into the wonderful world of keyboardmarketing outside the "normal" computer shops.
The other question to ask yourself is "Do I really NEED Nordic layout?"
I know you need to be able to type Norwegian characters, but you can do that with any layout. The ; key is just mapped to ö, etc. The reason I say this is that I live in Finland and own a few different layout boards. I have a Ducky and a Roccat with Nordic layout, a KBT Pure with US ANSI layout and a Microsoft board with UK ISO layout. I can switch between them easily and in fact I find the US and UK layouts best for programming (brackets and ; are in good places). You can install extra layouts in Windows and switch them with Alt-Shift. I have become used to the ANSI small enter key very easily. In fact the Pure is my favourite board at the moment.
The other reason is that there are a lot more US ANSI keycap sets available than Nordic ISO. And I like to have a lot of choice in keycaps.
If you decide you can live with ANSI layout there is the Code keyboard: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard/code-87-key-mechanical-keyboard.html#ad-image-0
US ANSI layout, but TKL, MX Clears and backlighting. Also has multimedia shortcuts. Shipping and customs could be expensive, though.
If you NEED Nordic ISO, you could send them an email about making one of these for you with Clears and Nordic caps: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-v2-88-key-iso-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html#ad-image-0
Another option is to get any Nordic layout Ducky Shine TKL and a bag of Cherry MX Clear switches and desolder all the LED's and switches and replace them...... But that's a lot of work.
Right now I'd just like to say "@/%#&¤!" you!!!", you just my decision ten times harder!! :p
but on a more serious note, you've got an extremely good point, and that is something I've been thinking of. I've kinda thought to myself that I need the nordic layout, but I guess I don't, I honestly know where everything is anyways, unless there is some weird symbol I don't knowwhere is..
Anyways, I'd also like to ask this question: if I get a keyboard with let's say a US layout (ANSI or ISO), would it be any problem getting nordic keycaps and just change it? Obviously the enter key would be different, but then I could just not change that one. Or is it more than just the legends that are different between nordic and a US layout? As in not the mechanical layout (if I'm using that term correct), but just simply the legends on each key.
God, I'm horrible at explaining what I'm thinking. Let me know if that was extremely unclear, and I'll try to rephrase myself!
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TKL ISO boards = 88 keys, TKL ANSI boards = 87 keys. ISO keyboards has an extra key next to the "z". But you can get whatever ISO board and buy whichever ISO keycaps and they'll fit. I don't like regular ANSI layout for typing Norwegian at all, because the ' will be where the backslash key is (inbetween enter and backspace, but you can just remap it with auto hot key anyway).
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Like epzy said, and you also got a teeny weeny left-shift to think of. ANSI left-shift is large.
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TKL ISO boards = 88 keys, TKL ANSI boards = 87 keys. ISO keyboards has an extra key next to the "z". But you can get whatever ISO board and buy whichever ISO keycaps and they'll fit. I don't like regular ANSI layout for typing Norwegian at all, because the ' will be where the backslash key is (inbetween enter and backspace, but you can just remap it with auto hot key anyway).
I did some matching up with my keyboard and an ANSI layout pic. And from what I can tell everything would be the same if I change keycaps on an ANSI layout, just that the æ would be located where the apostrophe is on an ANSI layout, does that sound about right, epzy?
God, I just wrote 3 essays about social and personality psychology for three hours straight a few hours ago, so pardon me if I'm a bit slow right now >_> This is soooo much to wrap my head around atm! :))
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TKL ISO boards = 88 keys, TKL ANSI boards = 87 keys. ISO keyboards has an extra key next to the "z". But you can get whatever ISO board and buy whichever ISO keycaps and they'll fit. I don't like regular ANSI layout for typing Norwegian at all, because the ' will be where the backslash key is (inbetween enter and backspace, but you can just remap it with auto hot key anyway).
I did some matching up with my keyboard and an ANSI layout pic. And from what I can tell everything would be the same if I change keycaps on an ANSI layout, just that the æ would be located where the apostrophe is on an ANSI layout, does that sound about right, epzy?
God, I just wrote 3 essays about social and personality psychology for three hours straight a few hours ago, so pardon me if I'm a bit slow right now >_> This is soooo much to wrap my head around atm! :))
Yes, the "Æ" is where the apostrophe usually is on a ISO keyboard, and the apostrophe is moved to the backslash key in the middle of backspace/enter.
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TKL ISO boards = 88 keys, TKL ANSI boards = 87 keys. ISO keyboards has an extra key next to the "z". But you can get whatever ISO board and buy whichever ISO keycaps and they'll fit. I don't like regular ANSI layout for typing Norwegian at all, because the ' will be where the backslash key is (inbetween enter and backspace, but you can just remap it with auto hot key anyway).
I did some matching up with my keyboard and an ANSI layout pic. And from what I can tell everything would be the same if I change keycaps on an ANSI layout, just that the æ would be located where the apostrophe is on an ANSI layout, does that sound about right, epzy?
God, I just wrote 3 essays about social and personality psychology for three hours straight a few hours ago, so pardon me if I'm a bit slow right now >_> This is soooo much to wrap my head around atm! :))
Yes, the "Æ" is where the apostrophe usually is on a ISO keyboard, and the apostrophe is moved to the backslash key in the middle of backspace/enter.
Ooooh, NOW I got it :D just took me some time to realise how you'd arrange it >_> thanks man
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That's why I think HHKB layout is teh **** compared to regular ANSI. :P No backslash key means I get a more comfortable key for the apostrophe.
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That's why I think HHKB layout is teh **** compared to regular ANSI. :P No backslash key means I get a more comfortable key for the apostrophe.
But now I've got an ever thougher decision to take care of >_> A CODE 87-Key with clears, a Ducky Shine 2 with MX Brown, or a Ducky Shine 3, still with brown, but about 60USD more than the 2
On every forum and review I've been on everyone says MX clears are superb, so I'm really unsure now :c
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That's why I think HHKB layout is teh **** compared to regular ANSI. :P No backslash key means I get a more comfortable key for the apostrophe.
But now I've got an ever thougher decision to take care of >_> A CODE 87-Key with clears, a Ducky Shine 2 with MX Brown, or a Ducky Shine 3, still with brown, but about 60USD more than the 2
Good luck deciding, young padawan. xD
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That's why I think HHKB layout is teh **** compared to regular ANSI. :P No backslash key means I get a more comfortable key for the apostrophe.
But now I've got an ever thougher decision to take care of >_> A CODE 87-Key with clears, a Ducky Shine 2 with MX Brown, or a Ducky Shine 3, still with brown, but about 60USD more than the 2
Good luck deciding, young padawan. xD
Yeah, thanks for that one -.- Screw you guys!
Hmm, I'm now tempted to make my own board.. at least mod a cheap one.. I've watched some tutorials etc. now, doesn't seem to hard. And my dad is pretty proficient when it comes soldering and that kind of stuff with diodes and similar stuff, so if I ever come to a hault I could just ask him ^^ The only problem then would be to actually find proper parts without paying tons of money.. So I might just get an already built keyboard, and if I'm still as interested after a couple years I might try making one. Hmmmmmm........
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I am using an ANSI board and it can be a pain writing Norwegian with it. But only if you use the '*<> characters. ' and * got a new location, and <> does not exist. For me it generally works well. I don't use <> while writing Norwegian, and I use US layout when I am coding. Easier access to []{} on US than on a Nordic layout.
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I am using an ANSI board and it can be a pain writing Norwegian with it. But only if you use the '*<> characters. ' and * got a new location, and <> does not exist. For me it generally works well. I don't use <> while writing Norwegian, and I use US layout when I am coding. Easier access to []{} on US than on a Nordic layout.
So basically what you guys are saying; get an ISO layout? :)
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I am using an ANSI board and it can be a pain writing Norwegian with it. But only if you use the '*<> characters. ' and * got a new location, and <> does not exist. For me it generally works well. I don't use <> while writing Norwegian, and I use US layout when I am coding. Easier access to []{} on US than on a Nordic layout.
So basically what you guys are saying; get an ISO layout? :)
I really like the ANSI layout (working with stuff in english), but some thinks its weird with the small Enter. The printing is US layout as well which might set you off writing norwegian while looking at the keyboard. If you primarily write in norwegian, maybe nordic ISO is better?
Getting ANSI layout and changing some keys for getting ØÆÅ etc in the right spot to get a nordic layout makes you loose one key. The <>. From a gaming perspective, its nice to have as many keys as possible around WASD/ESDF.
Edit:
Reading through my answers I see they are a bit unclear. I have a ANSI board, with US layout. And it works great for coding. Writing norwegian can be troublesome because of missing < key. Me having US layout on an ISO board would have made that easier. I feel the selection of ANSI boards are a lot bigger than ISO. Is this a correct understanding?
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I am using an ANSI board and it can be a pain writing Norwegian with it. But only if you use the '*<> characters. ' and * got a new location, and <> does not exist. For me it generally works well. I don't use <> while writing Norwegian, and I use US layout when I am coding. Easier access to []{} on US than on a Nordic layout.
So basically what you guys are saying; get an ISO layout? :)
ISO is a pain in the *** when it comes to keycaps and it's easy to change to the US layout when you need to (tab + alt + shift)
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Sorry.....
You're going to hate me for this. You say your dad can solder? Here are a couple of pics of the PCB from my Ducky G2Pro:
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
You can turn some ISO boards into ANSI and vice versa by moving/adding switches....
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Sorry.....
You're going to hate me for this. You say your dad can solder? Here are a couple of pics of the PCB from my Ducky G2Pro:
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
You can turn some ISO boards into ANSI and vice versa by moving/adding switches....
God dammit.. one thing's for sure. When my exams are done I'm sooooo gonna sit down and just learn everything I can O___o anyways.. why is ISO such a pain the a*** to find keycaps for? Because of the enter and shift keys?
Sorry for asking so damn many question, it's just that right now it's ten times easier to ask questions here and get sensible answers right away, instead of searching all over the net. As soon as I have time I'll actually do my own research though, and I'll let you guys off :p
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It's not hard at all. Most group buys includes ISO kits and there's lots of options in terms of vintage Cherry keycaps, Ducky Nordic keycaps and other stuff as well... Although, in the end there are more options available for ANSI users than ISO users overall. You can still find top notch quality keycaps for ISO keyboards.
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It's not hard at all. Most group buys includes ISO kits and there's lots of options in terms of vintage Cherry keycaps, Ducky Nordic keycaps and other stuff as well... Although, in the end there are more options available for ANSI users than ISO users overall. You can still find top notch quality keycaps for ISO keyboards.
It's true but if you want to find keycaps at the classifieds there is rarely any iso sets to buy
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Sorry for all the info, it's a lot to take in.
Please allow me to make a recommendation and give a little reasoning for it, too.
Buy a decent quality ISO layout (any ISO layout, doesn't have to be Nordic) TKL Ducky with any switch type and any LED colour. Of course if you CAN find one with Clears then get that.
Reasoning: You can change the switches and LED's for the ones you want later. I don't know about other boards, but with a Ducky TKL you can also modify the layout to ANSI later if you really want some particular keycaps that come only in ANSI layout.
Some extra blah blah blah which can be ignored: I bought a Ducky G2Pro, Nordic ISO TKL with a mix of Browns and Clears. Then I tried to find some nice aftermarket keycaps for it and the only decent Nordic ISO caps I could find were Ducky thin PBT. That's it... There are a fair amount of ISO sets and ANSI sets with ISO conversion kits out there, but there are FAR more ANSI sets around.
It's even possible to create a hybrid layout board, with ANSI enter and backslash, but ISO left shift and the extra key. Getting caps to fit will be harder than stock ANSI, but if you can get an extra 1.25x size modifier and 1x 1st or 2nd row keycap you can make it fit. Easier than trying to find a full ISO compatible set.
Just my 2 cents.
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Sorry for all the info, it's a lot to take in.
Please allow me to make a recommendation and give a little reasoning for it, too.
Buy a decent quality ISO layout (any ISO layout, doesn't have to be Nordic) TKL Ducky with any switch type and any LED colour. Of course if you CAN find one with Clears then get that.
Reasoning: You can change the switches and LED's for the ones you want later. I don't know about other boards, but with a Ducky TKL you can also modify the layout to ANSI later if you really want some particular keycaps that come only in ANSI layout.
Some extra blah blah blah which can be ignored: I bought a Ducky G2Pro, Nordic ISO TKL with a mix of Browns and Clears. Then I tried to find some nice aftermarket keycaps for it and the only decent Nordic ISO caps I could find were Ducky thin PBT. That's it... There are a fair amount of ISO sets and ANSI sets with ISO conversion kits out there, but there are FAR more ANSI sets around.
It's even possible to create a hybrid layout board, with ANSI enter and backslash, but ISO left shift and the extra key. Getting caps to fit will be harder than stock ANSI, but if you can get an extra 1.25x size modifier and 1x 1st or 2nd row keycap you can make it fit. Easier than trying to find a full ISO compatible set.
Just my 2 cents.
God, I'm so friggin' happy that you took your time to write that. I went to this thread right now to ask "If I ever want to start building/modding/finding keycaps/switches and so on, where should I start?". You just literally answered my question, BEFORE I even got a chance to ask it :D
I find it funny.. two days ago I said in a post (mb it was a msg), "I won't really see myself ever switching keycaps or anything like that, so I don't care". Now I'm checking the classifieds, GBs and everything. I'm even considering buying some keycaps while I'm at it, and I'm highly considering building my own board when the summer comes.
Jeez, GH ain't good for ya wallet.
Anyway... So if I just simply want to START somewhere, buying a Ducky Shine 2 TKL Nordic ISO layout won't be a bad starting point? That is obviously up for debate, and I guess everyone's got their own opinions, but in general, would it be a smart move (I'm asking everyone)?
I might add that the keyboard enthusiasts' world seems like a wonderful world. I feel like I've been enlightened.
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If your start is with a Ducky you're off to a good start. Until I am sent a bad Ducky I'll always recommend after my experience with the Shine 2. Any questions about modding, PM me (and there are so many others who would love to help as well).
Keep in touch, love the switch you buy, and then buy more.
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If your start is with a Ducky you're off to a good start. Until I am sent a bad Ducky I'll always recommend after my experience with the Shine 2. Any questions about modding, PM me (and there are so many others who would love to help as well).
Keep in touch, love the switch you buy, and then buy more.
But when it comes to modding that exact board, changing keycaps etc. etc., it's still a good start? :) I know I've asked that question a couple times now, but I want to be sure the first board is right... jeez, sounds like my first time having intercourse.
... enough of that!
Thanks for the help! I know I've said that like three times already, but I'll say it again ^_^
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they are probably not options for you because of the high cost of shipping, but my top recommendations for gamers would be pure (pro), race (2) and poker (2).
they come in many options (backlit with abs or non-backlit with pbt, pcb-mounted or plate-mounted, choice in cherry mx type..), they are small and in my opinion have everything a gamer would need.
which one i'd ultimately recommend only depends on how often you use the F-row, arrow keys and home/end/pgup/pgdn.
of course, if you really don't care for the extra space it takes, TKL brings many more options to the list.
personally i just absolutely love the flexibility a small keyboard gives you, when it comes to using desk space. depending on what i'm doing, i can easily move my keyboard and mouse around with very little restriction.
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edit: wrong button :/
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We nordics are in a sweet position, because the germans who also uses ISO, has made many awesome vintage keyboards with great caps.
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they are probably not options for you because of the high cost of shipping, but my top recommendations for gamers would be pure (pro), race (2) and poker (2).
they come in many options (backlit with abs or non-backlit with pbt, pcb-mounted or plate-mounted, choice in cherry mx type..), they are small and in my opinion have everything a gamer would need.
which one i'd ultimately recommend only depends on how often you use the F-row, arrow keys and home/end/pgup/pgdn.
of course, if you really don't care for the extra space it takes, TKL brings many more options to the list.
personally i just absolutely love the flexibility a small keyboard gives you, when it comes to using desk space. depending on what i'm doing, i can easily move my keyboard and mouse around with very little restriction.
I'll check the shipping of those later today and yeah, reason I wanna buy a TKL is because of how little room it takes up on your desk, compared to a full form factor.. So an even smaller might not be stupid
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In my opinion, the Ducky would be a great start.
they are probably not options for you because of the high cost of shipping, but my top recommendations for gamers would be pure (pro), race (2) and poker (2).
they come in many options (backlit with abs or non-backlit with pbt, pcb-mounted or plate-mounted, choice in cherry mx type..), they are small and in my opinion have everything a gamer would need.
which one i'd ultimately recommend only depends on how often you use the F-row, arrow keys and home/end/pgup/pgdn.
of course, if you really don't care for the extra space it takes, TKL brings many more options to the list.
personally i just absolutely love the flexibility a small keyboard gives you, when it comes to using desk space. depending on what i'm doing, i can easily move my keyboard and mouse around with very little restriction.
I'll check the shipping of those later today and yeah, reason I wanna buy a TKL is because of how little room it takes up on your desk, compared to a full form factor.. So an even smaller might not be stupid
I hesitate to recommend a 60% or 75% board for a number of reasons.
1. If the games you play use the F-keys, a 60% will be awkward / slow to use (you have to press the Fn button to access them)
2. If you want / need dedicated arrow keys or edit cluster (PgUp, PgDn, Home, End, Ins, Del)
3. Getting used to the layouts and deciding which layout is best for YOU. Some layouts have really small shift keys and keys in unfamiliar places which can take a lot of getting used to (KBT Pure Pro, Race, Keycool 84, etc.). This takes some time and effort to research and sometimes you won't really know until you actually try a particular layout.
4. Many of them use unusual layouts and it's hard to find keycap sets to fit. An exception to this is the Poker 2 which has standard ANSI layout.
I have a KBT Pure 60% board and, though I love it and think the Fn layer is definitely the best for me and the type of work I do, I am still getting used to it and am more comfortable on a TKL. I do a lot of text editing, selecting and moving blocks of text, etc. and holding shift while using arrow and edit keys on a Fn layer and then using copy / cut / paste shortcuts while moving the cursor again with arrows on a Fn layer takes some getting used to. I did sacrifice keycap compatibility a little (the right shift is a non standard size) to get the Fn layer that I like the most, but have found some awesome keycap sets on GH that fit (usually if they offer what is called a Tsangan kit they will have the 1.75x right shift that I need). Also the biggest size jump horizontally is from a full size to TKL.
So....
If you need F keys and arrow keys on the main layer and don't want a weird layout (or extra layers to deal with), go with TKL.
If you need F keys and arrow keys on the main layer, but are okay with a weird layout, have a look at the KBT Race, Keycool 84 and Noppoo Choc Mini. Some gamers really like these.
If you need arrow keys on the main layer, but not F keys, look at the Leopold FC660M (I quite like this layout. ANSI TKL keycap sets fit except for the right shift. These are usually available with Clear switches, too.), Filco Minila, Tex Beetle and KBT Pure Pro.
If you don't need arrows or F keys on the main layer, but want a standard layout, there's the Poker 2.
If you don't need arrows or F keys on the main layer and don't mind an odd layout, there's the original KBT Pure (although these are getting rare)
Then there's the GH60 which can be configured for the 3 main 60% sized layouts (Poker 2, Pure, Pure Pro) and there are also some custom boards with either Poker or Pure layouts.
Some of the 60% boards (and a number of TKLs) are available on Amazon.co.uk and at least in Finland the shipping is cheap and I don't pay customs since it is inside EU. Not sure how it is in Norway, due to not being part of the financial Union, but still at least Schengen state...
The rabbit hole goes deep, but at least you're in good company :) I am actually also a relative noob in the keyboard world (got my first mechanical last year), but have learnt SO much from the other members here on GH. I have since spent far too much money on keycaps, though.... <sigh>
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In my opinion, the Ducky would be a great start.
they are probably not options for you because of the high cost of shipping, but my top recommendations for gamers would be pure (pro), race (2) and poker (2).
they come in many options (backlit with abs or non-backlit with pbt, pcb-mounted or plate-mounted, choice in cherry mx type..), they are small and in my opinion have everything a gamer would need.
which one i'd ultimately recommend only depends on how often you use the F-row, arrow keys and home/end/pgup/pgdn.
of course, if you really don't care for the extra space it takes, TKL brings many more options to the list.
personally i just absolutely love the flexibility a small keyboard gives you, when it comes to using desk space. depending on what i'm doing, i can easily move my keyboard and mouse around with very little restriction.
I'll check the shipping of those later today and yeah, reason I wanna buy a TKL is because of how little room it takes up on your desk, compared to a full form factor.. So an even smaller might not be stupid
I hesitate to recommend a 60% or 75% board for a number of reasons.
1. If the games you play use the F-keys, a 60% will be awkward / slow to use (you have to press the Fn button to access them)
2. If you want / need dedicated arrow keys or edit cluster (PgUp, PgDn, Home, End, Ins, Del)
3. Getting used to the layouts and deciding which layout is best for YOU. Some layouts have really small shift keys and keys in unfamiliar places which can take a lot of getting used to (KBT Pure Pro, Race, Keycool 84, etc.). This takes some time and effort to research and sometimes you won't really know until you actually try a particular layout.
4. Many of them use unusual layouts and it's hard to find keycap sets to fit. An exception to this is the Poker 2 which has standard ANSI layout.
I have a KBT Pure 60% board and, though I love it and think the Fn layer is definitely the best for me and the type of work I do, I am still getting used to it and am more comfortable on a TKL. I do a lot of text editing, selecting and moving blocks of text, etc. and holding shift while using arrow and edit keys on a Fn layer and then using copy / cut / paste shortcuts while moving the cursor again with arrows on a Fn layer takes some getting used to. I did sacrifice keycap compatibility a little (the right shift is a non standard size) to get the Fn layer that I like the most, but have found some awesome keycap sets on GH that fit (usually if they offer what is called a Tsangan kit they will have the 1.75x right shift that I need). Also the biggest size jump horizontally is from a full size to TKL.
So....
If you need F keys and arrow keys on the main layer and don't want a weird layout (or extra layers to deal with), go with TKL.
If you need F keys and arrow keys on the main layer, but are okay with a weird layout, have a look at the KBT Race, Keycool 84 and Noppoo Choc Mini. Some gamers really like these.
If you need arrow keys on the main layer, but not F keys, look at the Leopold FC660M (I quite like this layout. ANSI TKL keycap sets fit except for the right shift. These are usually available with Clear switches, too.), Filco Minila, Tex Beetle and KBT Pure Pro.
If you don't need arrows or F keys on the main layer, but want a standard layout, there's the Poker 2.
If you don't need arrows or F keys on the main layer and don't mind an odd layout, there's the original KBT Pure (although these are getting rare)
Then there's the GH60 which can be configured for the 3 main 60% sized layouts (Poker 2, Pure, Pure Pro) and there are also some custom boards with either Poker or Pure layouts.
Some of the 60% boards (and a number of TKLs) are available on Amazon.co.uk and at least in Finland the shipping is cheap and I don't pay customs since it is inside EU. Not sure how it is in Norway, due to not being part of the financial Union, but still at least Schengen state...
The rabbit hole goes deep, but at least you're in good company :) I am actually also a relative noob in the keyboard world (got my first mechanical last year), but have learnt SO much from the other members here on GH. I have since spent far too much money on keycaps, though.... <sigh>
The rabbit hole goes wayyyyy down it seems like!
Right now, I believe the first I actually need to get a grip of is how the different layouts work, the different sizes of mod keys, what fits and what doesn't, what form factor I really want (right now I think I'll stick with a TKL, just 'cause that isn't such a HUGE leap from just a normal full form factor), what switches I want, LEDs or not, nordic or not...
Man, I just realised how much there is to learn >_> That's just the beginning of it all :p
EDIT: When I think about it, I really don't need LEDs on my KB after all.. from what I've understood most switches come with room for LEDs to be installed, so if I ever feel like I need the LEDs it wouldn't be a problem to solder on some myself. Having one that actually has backlit keys from the getgo would be a plus for me though.
As of right now I'm really confused as to what I want to buy.. I really don't need F keys on the main layout, but I know for a fact that with my surface type cover I get really annoyed by having to hold down Fn whenever updating a side, using Alt+F4 and those types of commands, and it's a great feeling whenever I go back to a KB with "dedicated" F keys
EDIT2: Sorry for all my edits, but after every post I keep roaming the forums for half an hour/hour every single time, and then I get new ideas.
At this moment I just want to buy EVERYTHING, that's my main problem. I want every single keycap, I want every single layout, every single form factor......... *sigh*
I should just stop looking at GBs and classifieds, buy the damn Ducky Shine 2, have that for a lil' while, learn some more about keyboards, and THEN start looking at all this other stuff, or else I'm never gonna get done deciding what I want >_>
EDIT3: Okey, so I found something that looks like an extremely good deal for me; http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000U1DJ2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2OIUDI229ZXI
An HHKB Lite2 at the price of 50USD WITH shipping.. am I missing something here? It's on the third page, by JAPAN ART 214 total ratings and 97% are positive. It just sounds too good. I know it says plus 550USD in shipping under it, but I went all the way to where I enter my credit card info, and it still says my total order will cost 50USD with shipping O_o
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....
EDIT3: Okey, so I found something that looks like an extremely good deal for me; http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000U1DJ2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2OIUDI229ZXI
An HHKB Lite2 at the price of 50USD WITH shipping.. am I missing something here? It's on the third page, by JAPAN ART 214 total ratings and 97% are positive. It just sounds too good. I know it says plus 550USD in shipping under it, but I went all the way to where I enter my credit card info, and it still says my total order will cost 50USD with shipping O_o
Yes, you're missing something. That is not a mechanical keyboard. Even though it is a Happy Hacking board, it has rubber domes (quite stiff ones, apparently) with membrane, NOT capacitive rubber dome and spring like the HHKB Pro. It's basically an expensive rubber dome board with an unusual layout.
Also, I'm not sure about the keycap type it uses. The HHKB Pro 2 uses "proper" capacitive dome and spring switches made by Topre (but they're very expensive). Keycap sets for Topre are a lot harder to find than Cherry MX, too. For a first mechanical I wouldn't go with the HHKB Pro unless you KNOW that you will like the layout and how the switches feel. If you get a chance to try keyboards at a local computer store, they may have a Realforce board. Realforce also use Topre switches, so you can see how they feel. I am not a fan of them, but for others they're the best. I also don't like the HHKB Pro layout, but again, it's a personal thing.
Since you're considering that kind of layout, I recommend you rather get a Leopold FC660M if you can find one for a decent price, or the Ducky Shine 2 TKL you mentioned before.
Qtan has them in his online store, $120 + $22 shipping, he has the white and dark grey models with MX Clear switches:
http://www.vendio.com/stores/E-sports-Gaming-equipments/item/shop-mechanical-keyboard-by-sw/leopold-fc660m-mechanical-keyb/lid=36810036
http://www.vendio.com/stores/E-sports-Gaming-equipments/item/shop-mechanical-keyboard-by-sw/leopold-fc660m-mechanical-keyb/lid=35722930
If you don't need backlighting, there is the Ducky Zero range, too.
EDIT - Just had to add: You're safe going with a backlit Ducky TKL. Boards that aren't backlit often cannot be converted to backlighting, although a few can. You will have the most options with one of those since you can change the layout, switches, keycaps, LED's etc. and the layout will be easy to use immediately. Who knows, maybe you discover you like the Brown switches after all and you don't change anything on the board. :)
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....
EDIT3: Okey, so I found something that looks like an extremely good deal for me; http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000U1DJ2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2OIUDI229ZXI
An HHKB Lite2 at the price of 50USD WITH shipping.. am I missing something here? It's on the third page, by JAPAN ART 214 total ratings and 97% are positive. It just sounds too good. I know it says plus 550USD in shipping under it, but I went all the way to where I enter my credit card info, and it still says my total order will cost 50USD with shipping O_o
Yes, you're missing something. That is not a mechanical keyboard. Even though it is a Happy Hacking board, it has rubber domes (quite stiff ones, apparently) with membrane, NOT capacitive rubber dome and spring like the HHKB Pro. It's basically an expensive rubber dome board with an unusual layout.
Also, I'm not sure about the keycap type it uses. The HHKB Pro 2 uses "proper" capacitive dome and spring switches made by Topre (but they're very expensive). Keycap sets for Topre are a lot harder to find than Cherry MX, too. For a first mechanical I wouldn't go with the HHKB Pro unless you KNOW that you will like the layout and how the switches feel. If you get a chance to try keyboards at a local computer store, they may have a Realforce board. Realforce also use Topre switches, so you can see how they feel. I am not a fan of them, but for others they're the best. I also don't like the HHKB Pro layout, but again, it's a personal thing.
Since you're considering that kind of layout, I recommend you rather get a Leopold FC660M if you can find one for a decent price, or the Ducky Shine 2 TKL you mentioned before.
Qtan has them in his online store, $120 + $22 shipping, he has the white and dark grey models with MX Clear switches:
http://www.vendio.com/stores/E-sports-Gaming-equipments/item/shop-mechanical-keyboard-by-sw/leopold-fc660m-mechanical-keyb/lid=36810036
http://www.vendio.com/stores/E-sports-Gaming-equipments/item/shop-mechanical-keyboard-by-sw/leopold-fc660m-mechanical-keyb/lid=35722930
If you don't need backlighting, there is the Ducky Zero range, too.
EDIT - Just had to add: You're safe going with a backlit Ducky TKL. Boards that aren't backlit often cannot be converted to backlighting, although a few can. You will have the most options with one of those since you can change the layout, switches, keycaps, LED's etc. and the layout will be easy to use immediately. Who knows, maybe you discover you like the Brown switches after all and you don't change anything on the board. :)
Thanks man, I really like the look of those Leopolds, but not sure what I want.. I'll have to keep researching for a while now. What happens is that every time I decide what to buy/do I discover something new and the whole process starts all over again :))
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Thanks man, I really like the look of those Leopolds, but not sure what I want.. I'll have to keep researching for a while now. What happens is that every time I decide what to buy/do I discover something new and the whole process starts all over again :))
So far we've talked mostly about layout, key switches and form factor. What about DIP switches? My next keyboard has to have DIP switches, because I want to be able to change Control for Capslock on the keyboard, and not via software. With the ducky you'll get that by the way.
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Thanks man, I really like the look of those Leopolds, but not sure what I want.. I'll have to keep researching for a while now. What happens is that every time I decide what to buy/do I discover something new and the whole process starts all over again :))
So far we've talked mostly about layout, key switches and form factor. What about DIP switches? My next keyboard has to have DIP switches, because I want to be able to change Control for Capslock on the keyboard, and not via software. With the ducky you'll get that by the way.
Yeah, thats something I havent thought of actually! might be nice, but as is I cant really picture myself using those much x) but then again, I said that when it came to the keycaps, and see where Im now!
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I have not look back after changing those keys. For me, to reach the bottom left corner (for caps lock) I have to move the hand and the little finger in an unnatural position. Its more comfortable to move the little finger one position left, instead of one left and two rows down.
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At this moment I just want to buy EVERYTHING, that's my main problem. I want every single keycap, I want every single layout, every single form factor......... *sigh*
"why oh why didn't i take the blue pill?"
that's it, then: geekhack has got you.
:D
Thanks man, I really like the look of those Leopolds, but not sure what I want.. I'll have to keep researching for a while now. What happens is that every time I decide what to buy/do I discover something new and the whole process starts all over again :))
perfect!
common is when people pay up in excitement of finding out that there's something close to their needs, while there are actually a bunch of options out there which are even closer to what they really want. such a waste!
just take your time :D
ontopic: don't be 'fooled' by the funny layout of compact boards. getting used to them should not be considered an issue. just have 'effectiveness' in mind when you look at them. if you think you'd actually miss certain keys too much, then i'd say it could be a bad choice.
on my pure pro, for example, the only thing i sometimes miss is having a dedicated Home key (since it's really annoying to press rshift + fn + home, with just my right hand).
but do i miss it too much..? nah. it's just a (small) price i pay for having an awesomely small keyboard.
but a TKL does really have it all (normal layout, normal key sizes), so if you wouldn't really benefit from the smaller size of a compact then it might just not be worth it.
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At this moment I just want to buy EVERYTHING, that's my main problem. I want every single keycap, I want every single layout, every single form factor......... *sigh*
"why oh why didn't i take the blue pill?"
that's it, then: geekhack has got you.
:D
Thanks man, I really like the look of those Leopolds, but not sure what I want.. I'll have to keep researching for a while now. What happens is that every time I decide what to buy/do I discover something new and the whole process starts all over again :))
perfect!
common is when people pay up in excitement of finding out that there's something close to their needs, while there are actually a bunch of options out there which are even closer to what they really want. such a waste!
just take your time :D
ontopic: don't be 'fooled' by the funny layout of compact boards. getting used to them should not be considered an issue. just have 'effectiveness' in mind when you look at them. if you think you'd actually miss certain keys too much, then i'd say it could be a bad choice.
on my pure pro, for example, the only thing i sometimes miss is having a dedicated Home key (since it's really annoying to press rshift + fn + home, with just my right hand).
but do i miss it too much..? nah. it's just a (small) price i pay for having an awesomely small keyboard.
but a TKL does really have it all (normal layout, normal key sizes), so if you wouldn't really benefit from the smaller size of a compact then it might just not be worth it.
Yeah, well, I just looked at a Ducky Mini, and damn that thing's sweet! I know everything's personal opinion, but I really appreciate the fact that you take your time to share your opinions, helps a lot whenever I have to make a decision myself! ^^
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The Ducky Mini is actually made by Vortex and branded for Ducky. It is one of these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/KBT-Poker-Mechanical-Keyboard-backlight/dp/B00GERIXBG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1398929794&sr=8-7&keywords=poker+2
with Nordic Ducky caps on, basically. They only made a few so far. My advice woud be to take some time to research at your leasure and get a better idea of what you really want. At some point it will kind of click and there'll be maybe one or two boards that really call to you.
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The Ducky Mini is actually made by Vortex and branded for Ducky. It is one of these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/KBT-Poker-Mechanical-Keyboard-backlight/dp/B00GERIXBG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1398929794&sr=8-7&keywords=poker+2
with Nordic Ducky caps on, basically. They only made a few so far. My advice woud be to take some time to research at your leasure and get a better idea of what you really want. At some point it will kind of click and there'll be maybe one or two boards that really call to you.
Oh, so it is basically a Poker 2 ? :) Thanks then!
I did actually find a Ducky Mini available, though it'll make a nice and big dent in my wallet... 85$ more expensive than a Ducky Shine 2 TKL to be exact.
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The Ducky Mini is actually made by Vortex and branded for Ducky. It is one of these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/KBT-Poker-Mechanical-Keyboard-backlight/dp/B00GERIXBG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1398929794&sr=8-7&keywords=poker+2
with Nordic Ducky caps on, basically. They only made a few so far. My advice woud be to take some time to research at your leasure and get a better idea of what you really want. At some point it will kind of click and there'll be maybe one or two boards that really call to you.
Oh, so it is basically a Poker 2 ? :) Thanks then!
I did actually find a Ducky Mini available, though it'll make a nice and big dent in my wallet... 85$ more expensive than a Ducky Shine 2 TKL to be exact.
It's exactly like a Poker 2, just with different branding. :) I've had both. And, yeah don't buy it if it's THAT expensive.
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The Ducky Mini is actually made by Vortex and branded for Ducky. It is one of these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/KBT-Poker-Mechanical-Keyboard-backlight/dp/B00GERIXBG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1398929794&sr=8-7&keywords=poker+2
with Nordic Ducky caps on, basically. They only made a few so far. My advice woud be to take some time to research at your leasure and get a better idea of what you really want. At some point it will kind of click and there'll be maybe one or two boards that really call to you.
Oh, so it is basically a Poker 2 ? :) Thanks then!
I did actually find a Ducky Mini available, though it'll make a nice and big dent in my wallet... 85$ more expensive than a Ducky Shine 2 TKL to be exact.
It's exactly like a Poker 2, just with different branding. :) I've had both. And, yeah don't buy it if it's THAT expensive.
Haha, I wasn't planning on it either, even though it looks real sexy !
I'm still leaning towards the Ducky Shine 2 TKL. I'm realising that the more I look around, the less closer I get to a decision. I should just start somewhere and take it from there ^^ I did like the look of the poker 2 though, and I like the thought of a 60% keyboard that is as versatile as the Poker 2
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60% master race!
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60% master race!
EDIT: I'm wondering if anyone knows a way to work around the fact that amazon.co.uk do NOT ship to Norway? (Other than having someone in Britain send it to you, obviously) They got several KBs I reaaaally want.. I'd love a layout like the KBT Pure pro's or Noppoo choco mini, but I can't really find any shipping to Norway (with ISO layout, that is).
Take that with a grain of salt btw, haven't been searching the interwebz for too long yet (I'm browsing Ebay at this very moment!).
What I'd really want is a noppoo choc mini 84 type KB with LED and ISO, but that might be way too much to ask for :rolleyes:
EDIT2: Anyone had any experience with this (Majestouch MINILA): http://www.keyboardco.com/keyboard/swedish-finnish-majestouch-minila-68-key-tactile-action-keyboard.asp
From what I've understood it would be a pain in the a** to find keycaps for it though, and modding in general..
EDIT3: I swear to god, if I have to edit ONE more time... gaaah...
Would ANSI layout be very hard to "program" so that I don't lose any keys? I mean, in an ISO layout u have the extra key at leftside of Z (<>), how hard is it to move that over to the key above the enter on an ANSI layout for example?
I've pretty much fallen in love with the compact form factor of the choc mini :C
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Bump.
Sry for bumping, but my original comment (I some edits now) wasn't really anything worth noting or replying to, so I kinda figured everyone had forgotten this thread by now.
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Hey, looking at the Minila, you might have problems with gaming on that because of the weird layout is all. Usually it's recommended that you start by using a TKL board because they aren't too different and you can tell if you like larger or smaller layouts.
For a recommendation, Ducky makes a Nordic layout and it shows that they have a reseller in Norway itself; maybe you'd like the Shine if you enjoy the cool backlighting modes, a Zero if you're looking for a cheaper version, or a Pro with nice thick PBT caps (and pretty cool color scheme, if I do say so myself).
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Hey, looking at the Minila, you might have problems with gaming on that because of the weird layout is all. Usually it's recommended that you start by using a TKL board because they aren't too different and you can tell if you like larger or smaller layouts.
For a recommendation, Ducky makes a Nordic layout and it shows that they have a reseller in Norway itself; maybe you'd like the Shine if you enjoy the cool backlighting modes, a Zero if you're looking for a cheaper version, or a Pro with nice thick PBT caps (and pretty cool color scheme, if I do say so myself).
Already got that sorted out ;) If I can't find anything else I want I'm buying a Ducky Shine 2 TKL MX Brown Green LED! Thanks for the input though :)
I'm curious though, which reseller was it that you found?
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Hey, looking at the Minila, you might have problems with gaming on that because of the weird layout is all. Usually it's recommended that you start by using a TKL board because they aren't too different and you can tell if you like larger or smaller layouts.
For a recommendation, Ducky makes a Nordic layout and it shows that they have a reseller in Norway itself; maybe you'd like the Shine if you enjoy the cool backlighting modes, a Zero if you're looking for a cheaper version, or a Pro with nice thick PBT caps (and pretty cool color scheme, if I do say so myself).
Already got that sorted out ;) If I can't find anything else I want I'm buying a Ducky Shine 2 TKL MX Brown Green LED! Thanks for the input though :)
I'm curious though, which reseller was it that you found?
You're quite welcome. No love for the Shine 3, though? :p
And I actually didn't look at the site of the reseller, but on Ducky's site they have this little maps with locating dots on where they are.
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Hey, looking at the Minila, you might have problems with gaming on that because of the weird layout is all. Usually it's recommended that you start by using a TKL board because they aren't too different and you can tell if you like larger or smaller layouts.
For a recommendation, Ducky makes a Nordic layout and it shows that they have a reseller in Norway itself; maybe you'd like the Shine if you enjoy the cool backlighting modes, a Zero if you're looking for a cheaper version, or a Pro with nice thick PBT caps (and pretty cool color scheme, if I do say so myself).
Already got that sorted out ;) If I can't find anything else I want I'm buying a Ducky Shine 2 TKL MX Brown Green LED! Thanks for the input though :)
I'm curious though, which reseller was it that you found?
You're quite welcome. No love for the Shine 3, though? :p
And I actually didn't look at the site of the reseller, but on Ducky's site they have this little maps with locating dots on where they are.
Ah, yeah.. There's ONE... that doesn't have them anymore (not TKL at least).
And I got a lot of love for the Shine 3, but it'll cost 85$ more for a shine 3 ^^'
If nobody has anything more to say, I'll buy the Ducky Shine 2 TKL tomorrow!
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Amazon.co.uk DO ship to Norway.... It's right there in their list: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=11072981
Some goods may be restricted by their type, but I ordered and received a keyboard from them here in Finland.
This one here is "Fulfilled by Amazon", so it should ship there no problem: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mechanical-Keyboard-Mx-Brown-Keycaps-International/dp/B007OK938Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398971123&sr=8-2&keywords=noppoo+choc+mini
It's a good layout for gaming and the keycaps are really great. They are thick POM with a great profile. AFAIK the board isn't backlit, though. That particular one comes with MX Brown switches.
Hard to find keycap sets for (the edit keys on the right hand side, short right shift and extra 1x key on the bottom row and the space looks like it might not be a standard size), but it is possible. Sets with Tsangan kits will fit everything except the right side edit keys (and possible the space). May actually be nice to keep them and the arrow keys standard anyway to differentiate them :)
About the programming ANSI layout to have all the keys of ISO... Can't be done, since ISO has 1 more physical key. You can map any key to any other key using software, though (AutoHotKey is one example). What I do with my ANSI boards is switch between installed layouts in Windows with Alt-Shift. So I use standard US ANSI layout for all the symbols and normal characters and switch to Finnish layout when I need ö,ä or å. I program exclusively in US ANSI since the brackets and slashes are in much better positions and never need öäå in my code (except maybe some comments).
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Amazon.co.uk DO ship to Norway.... It's right there in their list: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=11072981
Some goods may be restricted by their type, but I ordered and received a keyboard from them here in Finland.
This one here is "Fulfilled by Amazon", so it should ship there no problem: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mechanical-Keyboard-Mx-Brown-Keycaps-International/dp/B007OK938Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398971123&sr=8-2&keywords=noppoo+choc+mini
It's a good layout for gaming and the keycaps are really great. They are thick POM with a great profile. AFAIK the board isn't backlit, though. That particular one comes with MX Brown switches.
Hard to find keycap sets for (the edit keys on the right hand side, short right shift and extra 1x key on the bottom row and the space looks like it might not be a standard size), but it is possible. Sets with Tsangan kits will fit everything except the right side edit keys (and possible the space). May actually be nice to keep them and the arrow keys standard anyway to differentiate them :)
About the programming ANSI layout to have all the keys of ISO... Can't be done, since ISO has 1 more physical key. You can map any key to any other key using software, though (AutoHotKey is one example). What I do with my ANSI boards is switch between installed layouts in Windows with Alt-Shift. So I use standard US ANSI layout for all the symbols and normal characters and switch to Finnish layout when I need ö,ä or å. I program exclusively in US ANSI since the brackets and slashes are in much better positions and never need öäå in my code (except maybe some comments).
Unfortunately it does NOT ship to Norway :c None of the KBs (nor the one you linked) ship to Norway.. that's the message I get when trying to order it
EDIT: Or, well.. it says "Unfortunately this item does not ship to the chosen address" or something like that :/
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Darn... that sucks, sorry.
I guess they have different policies for certain types of items for Norway.
Well, as I've said before, the Ducky is a solid choice.
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Nice thread. As far as I have seen there has not been a wasdkeyboards recommendation. You can get custom keyboards here:
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-v2-88-key-iso-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html#ad-image-0 (http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-v2-88-key-iso-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html#ad-image-0)
But by all means i think the ducky should be a good choice also.
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Darn... that sucks, sorry.
I guess they have different policies for certain types of items for Norway.
Well, as I've said before, the Ducky is a solid choice.
It suck a lot :c
Nice thread. As far as I have seen there has not been a wasdkeyboards recommendation. You can get custom keyboards here:
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-v2-88-key-iso-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html#ad-image-0 (http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-v2-88-key-iso-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html#ad-image-0)
But by all means i think the ducky should be a good choice also.
WASD is absolutely an option, but buying a Ducky will actually be 'bout 15-20 bucks cheaper ^^' So unless the quality is better (?) for the WASD KBs I think I'll stick with the Ducky :)
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Darn... that sucks, sorry.
I guess they have different policies for certain types of items for Norway.
Well, as I've said before, the Ducky is a solid choice.
It suck a lot :c
Nice thread. As far as I have seen there has not been a wasdkeyboards recommendation. You can get custom keyboards here:
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-v2-88-key-iso-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html#ad-image-0 (http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/mechanical-keyboard/wasd-v2-88-key-iso-custom-mechanical-keyboard.html#ad-image-0)
But by all means i think the ducky should be a good choice also.
WASD is absolutely an option, but buying a Ducky will actually be 'bout 15-20 bucks cheaper ^^' So unless the quality is better (?) for the WASD KBs I think I'll stick with the Ducky :)
I do not know about the quality difference. I am not trying to change your choice so just stick with the ducky then.
Forresten, en norsk bruker til her på GH.
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...
WASD is absolutely an option, but buying a Ducky will actually be 'bout 15-20 bucks cheaper ^^' So unless the quality is better (?) for the WASD KBs I think I'll stick with the Ducky :)
Plus the WASD isn't backlit. The main advantage of the WASD is that you can choose your switch type, keycaps, etc. But they don't offer Clears right now, so it doesn't really help you.
Good luck with the decision, let us know how it goes. :thumb:
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...
WASD is absolutely an option, but buying a Ducky will actually be 'bout 15-20 bucks cheaper ^^' So unless the quality is better (?) for the WASD KBs I think I'll stick with the Ducky :)
Plus the WASD isn't backlit. The main advantage of the WASD is that you can choose your switch type, keycaps, etc. But they don't offer Clears right now, so it doesn't really help you.
Good luck with the decision, let us know how it goes. :thumb:
Haha, thanks :) But I've kinda come to the conclusion that if I find a board that I REALLY like I can live without backlighting, even though it is a plus to have ^^ But you're right when it comes to the switches, so I would be better off buying the Shine 2 at this point :) If I'd been a bit more decisive I woulda bought it already, but I suck at making decisions >_>
EDIT: Might add that a board I REALLY like = 60% or Choc mini formfactor and preferably with media keys)
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60% master race!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Master_race (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Master_race)
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Okey, so yet another time I found something that seems too good to be true: http://www.banggood.com/KEYCOOL-84-Mechanical-Keyboard-Cherry-MX-Black-Switch-p-81221.html
Keycool 84 for 45EURO, and with free shipping to Norway. I shall ask yet another time: Am I missing something here???
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Well, it has MX Black switches (linear like Reds, but harder springs). Other than that be sure to select paid postage with tracking from Banggood unless you don't mind waiting a LOONG time for it to arrive (4-8 weeks).
Other than that, it's a nice, plate mounted MX board with decent keycaps.
Bangood also sometimes stock the MX Clear version of the Keycool 84, but it's something like twice the price...
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Well, it has MX Black switches (linear like Reds, but harder springs). Other than that be sure to select paid postage with tracking from Banggood unless you don't mind waiting a LOONG time for it to arrive (4-8 weeks).
Other than that, it's a nice, plate mounted MX board with decent keycaps.
Bangood also sometimes stock the MX Clear version of the Keycool 84, but it's something like twice the price...
Yeah, I remember seeing a board with clears, but that was, as you said, twice the price. Are you sure of the delivery time? Because it says 7-20 days.. that doesn't have to be true obviously, though
EDIT: Believe it was this one: http://www.banggood.com/Keycool-87-White-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Cherry-MX-Clear-Switch-p-89115.html
Why oh why does it have to be so many options :c I'm never gonna get around to buying a KB if I keep changing my opinion every ten minutes :))
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This is the one I meant: http://www.banggood.com/Keycool-84-White-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Cherry-MX-Clear-Switch-p-89114.html
They all seem to be listed now as either "Out of stock" or " Coming soon"... You can preorder the one with Blacks, but I don't know when they are going to get stock of them. It seems that sometimes they list some items as "In stock", but only order them from their suppliers when people actually order the item. I ordered some keycaps from them and about a week later I got an email telling me that they were out of stock of that item and it would be a long time before they got more. I changed the order to a different set of keycaps and then waited 6 and a half weeks for them to arrive. Their service isn't great, but the products are fine.
For that price it's probably worth preordering the Keycool 84 with Blacks and see how it goes. Just be prepared to wait a long time before you have the board in your hands.
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This is the one I meant: http://www.banggood.com/Keycool-84-White-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Cherry-MX-Clear-Switch-p-89114.html
They all seem to be listed now as either "Out of stock" or " Coming soon"... You can preorder the one with Blacks, but I don't know when they are going to get stock of them. It seems that sometimes they list some items as "In stock", but only order them from their suppliers when people actually order the item. I ordered some keycaps from them and about a week later I got an email telling me that they were out of stock of that item and it would be a long time before they got more. I changed the order to a different set of keycaps and then waited 6 and a half weeks for them to arrive. Their service isn't great, but the products are fine.
For that price it's probably worth preordering the Keycool 84 with Blacks and see how it goes. Just be prepared to wait a long time before you have the board in your hands.
What I'm thinking right now is to buy the Shine 2, and order the Keycool 84 with black switches (It's so cheap that it really ain't a problem). Then, if I ever want to try out clear switches, I'll just buy the switches separately from EKB or something like that. That way I get to try five different switches (Brown, black, clear, ergo clear, clear with black spring) plus two different formfactors ^^
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This is the one I meant: http://www.banggood.com/Keycool-84-White-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Cherry-MX-Clear-Switch-p-89114.html
They all seem to be listed now as either "Out of stock" or " Coming soon"... You can preorder the one with Blacks, but I don't know when they are going to get stock of them. It seems that sometimes they list some items as "In stock", but only order them from their suppliers when people actually order the item. I ordered some keycaps from them and about a week later I got an email telling me that they were out of stock of that item and it would be a long time before they got more. I changed the order to a different set of keycaps and then waited 6 and a half weeks for them to arrive. Their service isn't great, but the products are fine.
For that price it's probably worth preordering the Keycool 84 with Blacks and see how it goes. Just be prepared to wait a long time before you have the board in your hands.
What I'm thinking right now is to buy the Shine 2, and order the Keycool 84 with black switches (It's so cheap that it really ain't a problem). Then, if I ever want to try out clear switches, I'll just buy the switches separately from EKB or something like that. That way I get to try five different switches (Brown, black, clear, ergo clear, clear with black spring) plus two different formfactors ^^
Now that is a GREAT plan! :D
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This is the one I meant: http://www.banggood.com/Keycool-84-White-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Cherry-MX-Clear-Switch-p-89114.html
They all seem to be listed now as either "Out of stock" or " Coming soon"... You can preorder the one with Blacks, but I don't know when they are going to get stock of them. It seems that sometimes they list some items as "In stock", but only order them from their suppliers when people actually order the item. I ordered some keycaps from them and about a week later I got an email telling me that they were out of stock of that item and it would be a long time before they got more. I changed the order to a different set of keycaps and then waited 6 and a half weeks for them to arrive. Their service isn't great, but the products are fine.
For that price it's probably worth preordering the Keycool 84 with Blacks and see how it goes. Just be prepared to wait a long time before you have the board in your hands.
What I'm thinking right now is to buy the Shine 2, and order the Keycool 84 with black switches (It's so cheap that it really ain't a problem). Then, if I ever want to try out clear switches, I'll just buy the switches separately from EKB or something like that. That way I get to try five different switches (Brown, black, clear, ergo clear, clear with black spring) plus two different formfactors ^^
Now that is a GREAT plan! :D
:D I've now preordered the Keycool 84 with blacks, and sent support a message asking when it'll be available. Hoping it won't be too long (My guess is that it will, though)!
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Update guys, I've now ordered my Ducky Shine 2 MX Brown :D Should be here within the next 3 or 4 days!!
EDIT: God damn.. Sorry for double >_< Any mod I can ask to remove it ? :/
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Update guys, I've now ordered my Ducky Shine 2 MX Brown :D Should be here within the next 3 or 4 days!!
Congrats!
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After long 6 pages you have made your mind. From the shine3 you get nothing more other than those literally useless light modes, great choice if you ask me enjoy it! :thumb:
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Update guys, I've now ordered my Ducky Shine 2 MX Brown :D Should be here within the next 3 or 4 days!!
Congrats!
Cheers!
After long 6 pages you have made your mind. From the shine3 you get nothing more other than those literally useless light modes, great choice if you ask me enjoy it! :thumb:
Haha, it sure took me some time! And thanks ^_^ Stupid as I am, I'm still not sure wether I made the right choice! But hopefully I'll get a Keycool 84 in the mail in the not too distant future, and I'll be able to try out even more stuff!
And I would like to announce an official thank you to every single one of you who've made this wonderful journey possible. I'd like to thank mom, dad, my broth..
... Who am I kidding, I'm not the formal type!
You guys are freakin' awesome and be proud of yourself for being such an awesome community of wonderful people! (I mean it)
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Congratulations! I'm sure you'll enjoy using both of your new boards! And it's been a pleasure. Hope to see some posts here when your boards arrive :)
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Congratulations! I'm sure you'll enjoy using both of your new boards! And it's been a pleasure. Hope to see some posts here when your boards arrive :)
Will get something up sooner or later!
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i appreciate your enthousiasm, dude!
enjoy the boards :D
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Another update guys! The Keycool 84 will be restocked within 15 days, so it isn't too bad :D
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I got a roccat ryos MK now, but i don't love this keyboard, i want a ducky too, they got iso keyboard? Or they can do hungarian layout? I tried to search for this but i can't find a good layout for me.
Thanks for Answers!
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I got a roccat ryos MK now, but i don't love this keyboard, i want a ducky too, they got iso keyboard? Or they can do hungarian layout? I tried to search for this but i can't find a good layout for me.
Thanks for Answers!
The Ducky Shine 2 I'm waiting for now has got an ISO layout, and the keycaps are nordic (however, that doesn't matter as long as you know where your keys are without having to look :) ) Don't know if they've got Hungarian. Is Hungarian used with ISO or ANSI?
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Hungarian is ISO, english iso set is good , just i need " í " hungarian got a lot of words with í ő ú ű etc...:D most important is í.
English keycap is good, i need only the buttons:)
Thanks.
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Hungarian is ISO, english iso set is good , just i need " � " hungarian got a lot of words with � ő � ű etc...:D most important is �.
Thanks.
Okay.. So you'd want a keyboard with an ISO layout :) What it says on the keycaps (the legends) has nothing to say with what is written when u press the key. So for instance, if I have a keyboard with an english keycap set, I would still be able to type ÆØÅ as long as the keyboard language on my computer is set to norwegian :) Well actually, you should probably wait for someone who actually knows more bout all of this to answer, I'm a noob when it comes to keyboards ^^' but from what I've understood all you need is a keyboard with an ISO layout, and you're good to go!
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Yep! thanks, then i will buy one too, soon. I find only US layout on the official homepage, but now i know they got iso layout, i will search one shop in EU.
Thanks your help!
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Yep! thanks, then i will buy one too, soon. I find only US layout on the official homepage, but now i know they got iso layout, i will search one shop in EU.
Thanks your help!
You're welcome!
If I've said anything wrong, feel free to correct me guys..
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I see leopold fc660m, thats a cool keyboard too, somebody use leopold fc660m here? i think they got iso layout.
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Sagii, you're absolutely correct.
dodzylla, the FC660M is a great keyboard, however I don't think there is an ISO version. At least I have not seen one, personally. Maybe Amazon UK does ship keyboards to Hungary. If so, there are quite a lot of ISO boards there to choose from.
This company (also based in UK) sells Filco, Matias and Realforce boards: http://www.keyboardco.com/index.asp
I think this company ships to Hungary and they sell ISO Ducky boards: https://www.teraset.net/product_catalog.php?c=245&s=3
If you can find a company in Hungary, though, that would be best.
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Sagii, you're absolutely correct.
dodzylla, the FC660M is a great keyboard, however I don't think there is an ISO version. At least I have not seen one, personally. Maybe Amazon UK does ship keyboards to Hungary. If so, there are quite a lot of ISO boards there to choose from.
This company (also based in UK) sells Filco, Matias and Realforce boards: http://www.keyboardco.com/index.asp
I think this company ships to Hungary and they sell ISO Ducky boards: https://www.teraset.net/product_catalog.php?c=245&s=3
If you can find a company in Hungary, though, that would be best.
Thanks for your help! :-* :D
Otherwise, I am pro player in dota 2, and i played starcraft long time ago.
My opinion today: Gaming mouse,keyboards all of them a great bull****, you can't get skill from these peripheries. I love keyboards and thats all, if you use mechanical keyboard, or membrane keyboard, you will be the same player with the same speed. I think only one thing can help, if you use "small keyboards, then you can press buttons a little bit faster:)
Dod
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What team are you signed for if I may ask?
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Our team name was 3picRaid, and Masters of Arcana (in dota 2):) We played TM matches a lot, 1 year ago, but our team disbanded because of school, so nowadays i play Alone:) If you think only tournaments got good players thats not true. Check some sc 2 pro streams, lot of korean pro lose on ranked, like MMA, MVP or Bomber:)
Professional player means very good player for me :) Lot of people can't find a good team and without that you can't be a tournament player:) + you have to give up school, and play always, thats a very great problem, once if you played enough, you can't find a good job, or something, because your only knowledge is gaming.
Dod
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Professional player means very good player for me
What means to you does not make it a fact, good players are not necessarily pro players. I don't doubt your skill in the game, I am just annoyed by so many people call themselves professionals these days.
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Professional player means very good player for me
What means to you does not make it a fact, good players are not necessarily pro players. I don't doubt your skill in the game, I am just annoyed by so many people call themselves professionals these days.
I understand that:) i think keyboard can't give you skill, and this is the point:) and yes you say it right, good players is not pro players:)
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Good players =/= professional players. Professional players = players who have sponsors and gets paid for playing.
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Professional player means very good player for me
What means to you does not make it a fact, good players are not necessarily pro players. I don't doubt your skill in the game, I am just annoyed by so many people call themselves professionals these days.
I understand that:) i think keyboard can't give you skill, and this is the point:) and yes you say it right, good players is not pro players:)
I don't believe it gives you skill, but I certainly think it can improve your performance ^^ For instance, I've been playing the guitar for about 11 years now, so I'm good at it (It's so hard judgning wether you're good or not >_> Anyway, I definetely know how to play the guitar!), but it certainly matters which guitar I play.. You're gonna hear quite different quality wether I jump on my BSG acoustic which is really, really good, or wether I use the guitar I started out playing on.
But as you said, it doesn't GIVE you the skill, but having good gear certainly improves how well you CAN do with practice :) That's my opinion at least!
EDIT: I realise "quality" might be the wrong word.. What I mean is I'd play better on a good guitar, than on a bad guitar, just as I would play worse on a bad keyboard, than a good one!
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Professional player means very good player for me
What means to you does not make it a fact, good players are not necessarily pro players. I don't doubt your skill in the game, I am just annoyed by so many people call themselves professionals these days.
I understand that:) i think keyboard can't give you skill, and this is the point:) and yes you say it right, good players is not pro players:)
I don't believe it gives you skill, but I certainly think it can improve your performance ^^ For instance, I've been playing the guitar for about 11 years now, so I'm good at it (It's so hard judgning wether you're good or not >_> Anyway, I definetely know how to play the guitar!), but it certainly matters which guitar I play.. You're gonna hear quite different quality wether I jump on my BSG acoustic which is really, really good, or wether I use the guitar I started out playing on.
But as you said, it doesn't GIVE you the skill, but having good gear certainly improves how well you CAN do with practice :) That's my opinion at least!
EDIT: I realise "quality" might be the wrong word.. What I mean is I'd play better on a good guitar, than on a bad guitar, just as I would play worse on a bad keyboard, than a good one!
EDIT2: An update guys... I just got an email from the company I ordered the ducky shine 2 after waiting a week. It turns out the product was never available >_> So now I'll have to look for a new keyboard (wohooo...)
EDIT3: God I'm an idiot, I pressed quote instead of modify O_o oh well, a bump wasn't too bad either!
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An update guys... I just got an email from the company I ordered the ducky shine 2 after waiting a week. It turns out the product was never available >_> So now I'll have to look for a new keyboard (wohooo...)
Go for the Shine 3, all the 2s are probably out of stock considering how long it's been since they were sold. They've got even fancier modes!
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An update guys... I just got an email from the company I ordered the ducky shine 2 after waiting a week. It turns out the product was never available >_> So now I'll have to look for a new keyboard (wohooo...)
Go for the Shine 3, all the 2s are probably out of stock considering how long it's been since they were sold. They've got even fancier modes!
I know.. I've still got the option to buy YYY edition TKL though. Which I've considered, but to me, they look hideous (don't lynch me for saying that). I'm also very much considering buying a KBT Race 2 with browns, and I've also got the option to buy a G2 Pro with clears (unless it's been sold).
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If you are okay with only partial backlighting (WASD cluster only, IIRC), the G2Pro with Clears would be a good option. Lovely switches, quality board.
It is also POSSIBLE to mod it later by extending the backlighting to all switches, although it doesn't follow best practices in terms of how to wire up LED's (not dangerous, just not ideal): http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49851.0
I still haven't got the switches to resurrect my G2Pro and finish the backlight mod, but I will someday.
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An update guys... I just got an email from the company I ordered the ducky shine 2 after waiting a week. It turns out the product was never available >_> So now I'll have to look for a new keyboard (wohooo...)
Go for the Shine 3, all the 2s are probably out of stock considering how long it's been since they were sold. They've got even fancier modes!
I know.. I've still got the option to buy YYY edition TKL though. Which I've considered, but to me, they look hideous (don't lynch me for saying that). I'm also very much considering buying a KBT Race 2 with browns, and I've also got the option to buy a G2 Pro with clears (unless it's been sold).
Not sold yet. xD
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Hmm... Okay, fair 'nuff! I will say the K series seems like they've got an extremely sturdy build though (unless it's me being a noob).
Anyways, that's kinda the problem.. I can't pinpoint what exactly I don't like about the K95 and the red switches. I thought I liked the red switches at first, but now I'm getting annoyed by too easily activating keys I don't want to activate, so I guess they are too light.
I'm sorry being a little late to the party but here's my little piece of insight
I have a K90 back in the days and i understand that it's pretty hard to pinpoint the exact thing you are unconfortable with considering you are beggining with mechs. Lack of experience makes it not possible for you to do so.
I would say most probably you do not like the feeling because the keycaps are incredibly cheap on the K series, and red MX are pretty average (lightest linear is pretty close to rubber domes). Altough the board is gorgeous (titanium plate is really cool), i would say corsair products are a little overprice for what they are.
As stated beforehand, if you want a keyboard specificly crafted for gaming, get a QFR. They are not expensive and deliver a really advance user experience. For a beginner, i believe this is on of the most balanced board nowaday in between price, swag and performances. They are available in multiple models, and i would go with the TKL myself, but that is up to you dawg.
Or else, i will tell you off my personnal experience, i currently own a Poker II and learned to game on a Razer Nostromo mostly. I would say the Poker II perfectly replaces the broken Nostromo, as it is small and can be used as a gamepad aswell.
You should really try to sit down in front of some mechs and try them out. I don't know if it's very popular in your location, but maybe your local ressources may guide you into trying different stuff where you live. All in all if you can't, you can always buy new and resell stuff here; there's always gonna be someone to buy your used mechs if you take care of them properly in the classifieds.
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Hmm... Okay, fair 'nuff! I will say the K series seems like they've got an extremely sturdy build though (unless it's me being a noob).
Anyways, that's kinda the problem.. I can't pinpoint what exactly I don't like about the K95 and the red switches. I thought I liked the red switches at first, but now I'm getting annoyed by too easily activating keys I don't want to activate, so I guess they are too light.
I'm sorry being a little late to the party but here's my little piece of insight
I have a K90 back in the days and i understand that it's pretty hard to pinpoint the exact thing you are unconfortable with considering you are beggining with mechs. Lack of experience makes it not possible for you to do so.
I would say most probably you do not like the feeling because the keycaps are incredibly cheap on the K series, and red MX are pretty average (lightest linear is pretty close to rubber domes). Altough the board is gorgeous (titanium plate is really cool), i would say corsair products are a little overprice for what they are.
As stated beforehand, if you want a keyboard specificly crafted for gaming, get a QFR. They are not expensive and deliver a really advance user experience. For a beginner, i believe this is on of the most balanced board nowaday in between price, swag and performances. They are available in multiple models, and i would go with the TKL myself, but that is up to you dawg.
Or else, i will tell you off my personnal experience, i currently own a Poker II and learned to game on a Razer Nostromo mostly. I would say the Poker II perfectly replaces the broken Nostromo, as it is small and can be used as a gamepad aswell.
You should really try to sit down in front of some mechs and try them out. I don't know if it's very popular in your location, but maybe your local ressources may guide you into trying different stuff where you live. All in all if you can't, you can always buy new and resell stuff here; there's always gonna be someone to buy your used mechs if you take care of them properly in the classifieds.
Eh, mechs aint really popular here in Norway... lets just say that the two available mechs (in physical stores) are the g710+ and the blackwidow.. yeah.. you read right. Other than that, the ducky from epzy (g2 pro clears) is really tempting. But I liked the feel of how light the reds were, but they were just SLIGHTLY too light (aka I'd like to try proper browns), so i fear that clears would be way too heavy.. and I know it sounds silly, but not having backlit really bugs me (and the legends aren't really easy to read either..). I know that could be fixed by buyin a keycap set or something.. but buying a kbt race 2 is then more appealing, cause it got everything I want from the getgo ^^' (besides clears, ofc, but I'm not sure I'd like clears even)
I'm thinking of the choc mini as well. I love the 75% formfactor of the choc and race 2
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The Choc Mini has very non-standard caps and the space bar in particular (5.5x, nigh on impossible to find). The Race 2 and Keycool 84 will be much easier to find keycaps for, but the Choc Mini (non-backlit) comes with decent, thick caps (POM I think), so there's no real need to change them. AFAIK, the Race is PCB mount, whereas the Choc Mini and Keycool are plate mount. Race and Keycool are fully backlit.
Keep in mind that backlit boards often come with crappy thin ABS caps. Not making it easier, I know...
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The Choc Mini has very non-standard caps and the space bar in particular (5.5x, nigh on impossible to find). The Race 2 and Keycool 84 will be much easier to find keycaps for, but the Choc Mini (non-backlit) comes with decent, thick caps (POM I think), so there's no real need to change them. AFAIK, the Race is PCB mount, whereas the Choc Mini and Keycool are plate mount. Race and Keycool are fully backlit.
Keep in mind that backlit boards often come with crappy thin ABS caps. Not making it easier, I know...
Yeah, I know all that ^^' Done my research this time around :D That's another thing that's holding me back from buying the race 2.. the thin ABS caps, I've read quite bad things about them.. especially how shiny they get
EDIT: does anyone here have some experience going from browns/reds/really light switches (while ENJOYING them, I might add) to stock clears, and if so, what were your opinion on the clears after trying them?
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http://www.mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=602
^^ This is very compelling. It even has PBT caps. I could go Blue or Brown on switches.
Only problem: I can only get that in that all yellow and there are no other variants that I'm aware of.
How big a deal is ABS vs PBT really when we get down to it? Because if it isn't worth much I'll very likely go for a "non limited edition" Ducky Shine 3 or at least have it on the shortlist.
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I am playing sc2 (platine) with filco brown, I like having a feedback over linear switches. Blue switches are too clicky for gaming IMO
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http://www.mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=602
^^ This is very compelling. It even has PBT caps. I could go Blue or Brown on switches.
Only problem: I can only get that in that all yellow and there are no other variants that I'm aware of.
How big a deal is ABS vs PBT really when we get down to it? Because if it isn't worth much I'll very likely go for a "non limited edition" Ducky Shine 3 or at least have it on the shortlist.
PBT lasts longer, and won't get shiny nor yellow. ABS will get shiny and yellow over time. There's more color-way options for ABS keycaps.
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I've kinda decided to go with the race 2 now :) the big question now is wether I should go with black or white keycaps.. if I ever want to change the alphas later I should prolly go with the black one, cause black mods with something else alphas look good, amd at the same time, the LEDs are white with the black one, which means I can use LED covers.. the white one looks cooler outta the box though :/ the white keycaps and green light look awesome
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isn't race 2 pcb-mounted and abs caps..?
horrific! ;p
i want a thick pbt non-backlit plate-mounted race 2 with topre switches.. hello!
ontopic: i agree the white caps with green light look cool. i do think the right side of the race 2 looks a bit silly, but that's no biggy ;p definitely one of the coolest boards out there.
edit: browns..? horrific!! :D
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isn't race 2 pcb-mounted and abs caps..?
horrific! ;p
i want a thick pbt non-backlit plate-mounted race 2 with topre switches.. hello!
ontopic: i agree the white caps with green light look cool. i do think the right side of the race 2 looks a bit silly, but that's no biggy ;p definitely one of the coolest boards out there.
edit: browns..? horrific!! :D
Haha, you've got a point with the PCB mounted ABS.. that's why I'm NOT one hundred percent sure anymore :)) I'm now considering the Poker 2 actually.. It just sesems like that one is more versatile
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isn't race 2 pcb-mounted and abs caps..?
horrific! ;p
i want a thick pbt non-backlit plate-mounted race 2 with topre switches.. hello!
ontopic: i agree the white caps with green light look cool. i do think the right side of the race 2 looks a bit silly, but that's no biggy ;p definitely one of the coolest boards out there.
edit: browns..? horrific!! :D
Nothing wrong with PCB mount nor ABS keycaps.
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isn't race 2 pcb-mounted and abs caps..?
horrific! ;p
i want a thick pbt non-backlit plate-mounted race 2 with topre switches.. hello!
ontopic: i agree the white caps with green light look cool. i do think the right side of the race 2 looks a bit silly, but that's no biggy ;p definitely one of the coolest boards out there.
edit: browns..? horrific!! :D
Nothing wrong with PCB mount nor ABS keycaps.
Nah, it ain't, but I heard that PCB mounted switches might make it wobbly? And the ABS, I dunno.. I just like the look of the PBT ten times better, even though I've never tried it :))
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On gaming forums, I noticed that the Corsair keyboards are the most often recommended, which is kind of puzzling.
It is not that they are a terrible product, but they are one of the few keyboards brands that have had fairly serious problems and critique on every iteration of their product. The first generation of Corsair keyboards had some hardware and software issues (LEDs dying were a problem, bricking keyboards when upgrading firmware, repeated key problem, generally terrible drivers, not to mention they were not fully mechanical). The second generation of Corsair keyboards are a lot better, but some problems remain. Complaints about LEDs dying are still very common.
If you compare that to some other brands that have been making quality peripherals for years without any serious design issues or specific recurring malfunction, I find it hard to recommend Corsair keyboards over some of the other brands that are available. Their popularity is probably due to their looks, good marketing, and the good name of the Corsair brand.
Another thing to point out, that "gaming keyboards" are really just keyboards. Some of them have specific features that you might want, like macro keys. But most of the features associated with gaming keyboards, like n-key rollover, or media keys, can be found in many decent keyboards. The only real difference is how they look aesthetically, as many people seem to like the bright lights and shiny plastic approach that you usually get with things that are gaming branded.
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On gaming forums, I noticed that the Corsair keyboards are the most often recommended, which is kind of puzzling.
It is not that they are a terrible product, but they are one of the few keyboards brands that have had fairly serious problems and critique on every iteration of their product. The first generation of Corsair keyboards had some hardware and software issues (LEDs dying were a problem, bricking keyboards when upgrading firmware, repeated key problem, generally terrible drivers, not to mention they were not fully mechanical). The second generation of Corsair keyboards are a lot better, but some problems remain. Complaints about LEDs dying are still very common.
If you compare that to some other brands that have been making quality peripherals for years without any serious design issues or specific recurring malfunction, I find it hard to recommend Corsair keyboards over some of the other brands that are available. Their popularity is probably due to their looks, good marketing, and the good name of the Corsair brand.
Another thing to point out, that "gaming keyboards" are really just keyboards. Some of them have specific features that you might want, like macro keys. But most of the features associated with gaming keyboards, like n-key rollover, or media keys, can be found in many decent keyboards. The only real difference is how they look aesthetically, as many people seem to like the bright lights and shiny plastic approach that you usually get with things that are gaming branded.
Well, most of this has already been mentioned :) But you're absolutely right, and that's why I'm so damn happy I stumbled accross GH in my search for a board, or else I'd still be the "Can't buy that keyboard, it's not a gaming keyboard" guy :)) This community has opened my eyes.. I've been enlightened!
Only problem is that I can't decide which board to get :c I've kinda settled on one board several times now, only to realise or discover something new and having to go back to the drawing board!
EDIT: Well, talking about the Corsair boards.. I've honestly heard nothing but good things about their quality. But that might just be me looking in the wrong places.
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I just noticed the top row with the big Esc and Del keys.... You will not be able to find an aftermarket set of keycaps to fit that board if you don't like the stock keycaps. That is a VERY big risk, IMO. I don't know of any row 4 keys like that available ANYWHERE....
For that reason alone I would recommend to rather get a Keycool 84. The only "weird" key is the 1.75x right shift and many sets have an option for that key (usually including in a Tsangan kit).
PCB mount is fine, it just feels a little different from plate mount. I am actually using a PCB mounted board with ABS caps (KBT Pure with Browns, Cherry Legends keycaps set) to type this and it feels awesome to me :)
Generally speaking, I do prefer plate mount and thick, heavy caps, though. And I really didn't like the stock keycaps that came with the board.
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I just noticed the top row with the big Esc and Del keys.... You will not be able to find an aftermarket set of keycaps to fit that board if you don't like the stock keycaps. That is a VERY big risk, IMO. I don't know of any row 4 keys like that available ANYWHERE....
For that reason alone I would recommend to rather get a Keycool 84. The only "weird" key is the 1.75x right shift and many sets have an option for that key (usually including in a Tsangan kit).
PCB mount is fine, it just feels a little different from plate mount. I am actually using a PCB mounted board with ABS caps (KBT Pure with Browns, Cherry Legends keycaps set) to type this and it feels awesome to me :)
Generally speaking, I do prefer plate mount and thick, heavy caps, though. And I really didn't like the stock keycaps that came with the board.
Yeah.. I know, and it's definitely a good point. The arrow keys are 1.5 as well, so they wouldn't be easily replaceable either. The keycool 84, however, is almost impossible to find >_> The Poker 2 and Race 2 are not. One problem is that it's really hard to know wether or not you actually NEED the arrowkeys, and F row.
Poker 2 pros: PBT, stiffer/sturdier, slightly smaller, easily replacable caps
Race 2 pros: Has both arrowkeys and the F-row, plus Home and End (I use those quite a bit, but the way the Fn layer is on the Poker 2 it wouldn't be a problem anyways)
So really, it's a matter of what I need/don't need, and that's really hard to actually know :))
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I just noticed the top row with the big Esc and Del keys.... You will not be able to find an aftermarket set of keycaps to fit that board if you don't like the stock keycaps. That is a VERY big risk, IMO. I don't know of any row 4 keys like that available ANYWHERE....
For that reason alone I would recommend to rather get a Keycool 84. The only "weird" key is the 1.75x right shift and many sets have an option for that key (usually including in a Tsangan kit).
PCB mount is fine, it just feels a little different from plate mount. I am actually using a PCB mounted board with ABS caps (KBT Pure with Browns, Cherry Legends keycaps set) to type this and it feels awesome to me :)
Generally speaking, I do prefer plate mount and thick, heavy caps, though. And I really didn't like the stock keycaps that came with the board.
Yeah.. I know, and it's definitely a good point. The arrow keys are 1.5 as well, so they wouldn't be easily replaceable either. The keycool 84, however, is almost impossible to find >_> The Poker 2 and Race 2 are not. One problem is that it's really hard to know wether or not you actually NEED the arrowkeys, and F row.
Poker 2 pros: PBT, stiffer/sturdier, slightly smaller, easily replacable caps
Race 2 pros: Has both arrowkeys and the F-row, plus Home and End (I use those quite a bit, but the way the Fn layer is on the Poker 2 it wouldn't be a problem anyways)
So really, it's a matter of what I need/don't need, and that's really hard to actually know :))
Dear friend,
You are missing something very important on the Poker 2 : it has reprogrammable functions (PN) with inboard memory. You can program macros on your board. If you really like mechs, the Poker 2 is really capable of showing interesting features for an enthousiast like you seem to be.
Plus Arrow Keys and F-Row are all binded to FN function keys (Programmable (PN) and Functions (FN) are two separate things on the Poker II). I work with Arrow keys all the time in terminals and with the Poker II FN key it's fairly easy to navigate with arrow keys, you press FN then arrow keys are binded to WASD means anyone with a gaming experience might aswell appreciate the Poker II FN functions even more than standard physical arrow keys.
In my very personnal opinion which you do not have to take my words for undeniable truth and wisdom, if you have to choose between a Poker II and a Race II, take the Poker II. Imo, the Race II is flawed in many ways; what it has physically over the Poker II, the Poker II has it in FN functions built-in, and it has too many out-of-standard features (1.5 escape, 1.5 arrow, a complete F row (which is on the Poker II FN function, how many times a day do you use the F1-F12?)).
You can still go with the Race II if you really want lol there's no wrong choices after all, it all depends on you.
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I just noticed the top row with the big Esc and Del keys.... You will not be able to find an aftermarket set of keycaps to fit that board if you don't like the stock keycaps. That is a VERY big risk, IMO. I don't know of any row 4 keys like that available ANYWHERE....
For that reason alone I would recommend to rather get a Keycool 84. The only "weird" key is the 1.75x right shift and many sets have an option for that key (usually including in a Tsangan kit).
PCB mount is fine, it just feels a little different from plate mount. I am actually using a PCB mounted board with ABS caps (KBT Pure with Browns, Cherry Legends keycaps set) to type this and it feels awesome to me :)
Generally speaking, I do prefer plate mount and thick, heavy caps, though. And I really didn't like the stock keycaps that came with the board.
Yeah.. I know, and it's definitely a good point. The arrow keys are 1.5 as well, so they wouldn't be easily replaceable either. The keycool 84, however, is almost impossible to find >_> The Poker 2 and Race 2 are not. One problem is that it's really hard to know wether or not you actually NEED the arrowkeys, and F row.
Poker 2 pros: PBT, stiffer/sturdier, slightly smaller, easily replacable caps
Race 2 pros: Has both arrowkeys and the F-row, plus Home and End (I use those quite a bit, but the way the Fn layer is on the Poker 2 it wouldn't be a problem anyways)
So really, it's a matter of what I need/don't need, and that's really hard to actually know :))
Dear friend,
You are missing something very important on the Poker 2 : it has reprogrammable functions (PN) with inboard memory. You can program macros on your board. If you really like mechs, the Poker 2 is really capable of showing interesting features for an enthousiast like you seem to be.
Plus Arrow Keys and F-Row are all binded to FN function keys (Programmable (PN) and Functions (FN) are two separate things on the Poker II). I work with Arrow keys all the time in terminals and with the Poker II FN key it's fairly easy to navigate with arrow keys, you press FN then arrow keys are binded to WASD means anyone with a gaming experience might aswell appreciate the Poker II FN functions even more than standard physical arrow keys.
In my very personnal opinion which you do not have to take my words for undeniable truth and wisdom, if you have to choose between a Poker II and a Race II, take the Poker II. Imo, the Race II is flawed in many ways; what it has physically over the Poker II, the Poker II has it in FN functions built-in, and it has too many out-of-standard features (1.5 escape, 1.5 arrow, a complete F row (which is on the Poker II FN function, how many times a day do you use the F1-F12?)).
You can still go with the Race II if you really want lol there's no wrong choices after all, it all depends on you.
Yeah, I know about the Fn and Pn layers, but what I'm afraid of is that'll be a hassle to press Fn all the time to access the F row and arrow keys.. However, that's a layout that I've never tried, so I wouldn't know. And everyone I've talked to says that it really isn't a problem, and that you quickly get used to it, which is the reason I'm leaning towards the Poker 2 atm! :)
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I just noticed the top row with the big Esc and Del keys.... You will not be able to find an aftermarket set of keycaps to fit that board if you don't like the stock keycaps. That is a VERY big risk, IMO. I don't know of any row 4 keys like that available ANYWHERE....
For that reason alone I would recommend to rather get a Keycool 84. The only "weird" key is the 1.75x right shift and many sets have an option for that key (usually including in a Tsangan kit).
PCB mount is fine, it just feels a little different from plate mount. I am actually using a PCB mounted board with ABS caps (KBT Pure with Browns, Cherry Legends keycaps set) to type this and it feels awesome to me :)
Generally speaking, I do prefer plate mount and thick, heavy caps, though. And I really didn't like the stock keycaps that came with the board.
Yeah.. I know, and it's definitely a good point. The arrow keys are 1.5 as well, so they wouldn't be easily replaceable either. The keycool 84, however, is almost impossible to find >_> The Poker 2 and Race 2 are not. One problem is that it's really hard to know wether or not you actually NEED the arrowkeys, and F row.
Poker 2 pros: PBT, stiffer/sturdier, slightly smaller, easily replacable caps
Race 2 pros: Has both arrowkeys and the F-row, plus Home and End (I use those quite a bit, but the way the Fn layer is on the Poker 2 it wouldn't be a problem anyways)
So really, it's a matter of what I need/don't need, and that's really hard to actually know :))
Dear friend,
You are missing something very important on the Poker 2 : it has reprogrammable functions (PN) with inboard memory. You can program macros on your board. If you really like mechs, the Poker 2 is really capable of showing interesting features for an enthousiast like you seem to be.
Plus Arrow Keys and F-Row are all binded to FN function keys (Programmable (PN) and Functions (FN) are two separate things on the Poker II). I work with Arrow keys all the time in terminals and with the Poker II FN key it's fairly easy to navigate with arrow keys, you press FN then arrow keys are binded to WASD means anyone with a gaming experience might aswell appreciate the Poker II FN functions even more than standard physical arrow keys.
In my very personnal opinion which you do not have to take my words for undeniable truth and wisdom, if you have to choose between a Poker II and a Race II, take the Poker II. Imo, the Race II is flawed in many ways; what it has physically over the Poker II, the Poker II has it in FN functions built-in, and it has too many out-of-standard features (1.5 escape, 1.5 arrow, a complete F row (which is on the Poker II FN function, how many times a day do you use the F1-F12?)).
You can still go with the Race II if you really want lol there's no wrong choices after all, it all depends on you.
Yeah, I know about the Fn and Pn layers, but what I'm afraid of is that'll be a hassle to press Fn all the time to access the F row and arrow keys.. However, that's a layout that I've never tried, so I wouldn't know. And everyone I've talked to says that it really isn't a problem, and that you quickly get used to it, which is the reason I'm leaning towards the Poker 2 atm! :)
You won't regret. Just take your time and experiment with program the layers.
I find it easier to hold caplock(which I switched to FN using the dip) and pressing 1,2,3,4 etc than reaching for the F keys on a full size or tkl layout.
Hold caplock + wasd for arrows. I even programmed a numpad into one of the layers.
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I just noticed the top row with the big Esc and Del keys.... You will not be able to find an aftermarket set of keycaps to fit that board if you don't like the stock keycaps. That is a VERY big risk, IMO. I don't know of any row 4 keys like that available ANYWHERE....
For that reason alone I would recommend to rather get a Keycool 84. The only "weird" key is the 1.75x right shift and many sets have an option for that key (usually including in a Tsangan kit).
PCB mount is fine, it just feels a little different from plate mount. I am actually using a PCB mounted board with ABS caps (KBT Pure with Browns, Cherry Legends keycaps set) to type this and it feels awesome to me :)
Generally speaking, I do prefer plate mount and thick, heavy caps, though. And I really didn't like the stock keycaps that came with the board.
Yeah.. I know, and it's definitely a good point. The arrow keys are 1.5 as well, so they wouldn't be easily replaceable either. The keycool 84, however, is almost impossible to find >_> The Poker 2 and Race 2 are not. One problem is that it's really hard to know wether or not you actually NEED the arrowkeys, and F row.
Poker 2 pros: PBT, stiffer/sturdier, slightly smaller, easily replacable caps
Race 2 pros: Has both arrowkeys and the F-row, plus Home and End (I use those quite a bit, but the way the Fn layer is on the Poker 2 it wouldn't be a problem anyways)
So really, it's a matter of what I need/don't need, and that's really hard to actually know :))
Dear friend,
You are missing something very important on the Poker 2 : it has reprogrammable functions (PN) with inboard memory. You can program macros on your board. If you really like mechs, the Poker 2 is really capable of showing interesting features for an enthousiast like you seem to be.
Plus Arrow Keys and F-Row are all binded to FN function keys (Programmable (PN) and Functions (FN) are two separate things on the Poker II). I work with Arrow keys all the time in terminals and with the Poker II FN key it's fairly easy to navigate with arrow keys, you press FN then arrow keys are binded to WASD means anyone with a gaming experience might aswell appreciate the Poker II FN functions even more than standard physical arrow keys.
In my very personnal opinion which you do not have to take my words for undeniable truth and wisdom, if you have to choose between a Poker II and a Race II, take the Poker II. Imo, the Race II is flawed in many ways; what it has physically over the Poker II, the Poker II has it in FN functions built-in, and it has too many out-of-standard features (1.5 escape, 1.5 arrow, a complete F row (which is on the Poker II FN function, how many times a day do you use the F1-F12?)).
You can still go with the Race II if you really want lol there's no wrong choices after all, it all depends on you.
Yeah, I know about the Fn and Pn layers, but what I'm afraid of is that'll be a hassle to press Fn all the time to access the F row and arrow keys.. However, that's a layout that I've never tried, so I wouldn't know. And everyone I've talked to says that it really isn't a problem, and that you quickly get used to it, which is the reason I'm leaning towards the Poker 2 atm! :)
You won't regret. Just take your time and experiment with program the layers.
I find it easier to hold caplock(which I switched to FN using the dip) and pressing 1,2,3,4 etc than reaching for the F keys on a full size or tkl layout.
Hold caplock + wasd for arrows. I even programmed a numpad into one of the layers.
Very interresting! I have not tought of that.
What i personnaly did was to change the Cherry MX under PN and FN for a Cherry MX Lock that would hold "Modes". While the FN or PN key is pressed and stay press, i can freely type on the board without holding it, therefor you could consider it's kindoff a mode switching, which the PN one is fully programmable, therefore i could bind some game functions onto PN and totally play on PN all the time (aka if i ever become a Korean-Level StarCraft II Player)
I really think the Programmable functions on the Poker II gives it a decent advantage in compact keyboards, i have not seen any with the same programmable function available on all keys (aka if you know any others i want to know aswell please enlighten me :) )
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Okey, I just want to make sure: the KBC poker 2 has ONLY standard keycap sizes, right? So there would be no hassle getting keycaps for it?
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Okey, I just want to make sure: the KBC poker 2 has ONLY standard keycap sizes, right? So there would be no hassle getting keycaps for it?
Correct.
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Okey, I just want to make sure: the KBC poker 2 has ONLY standard keycap sizes, right? So there would be no hassle getting keycaps for it?
Correct.
Okey, thanks.. Does anyone have experience with the acrylic cases from qtan? They look sweet, but I don't wanna buy something that's not worth it ^^' The MOST tempting thing is to buy an aluminum case, but I'm not gonna do that just yet :)) I haven't even bought a single KB yet!
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Okey, I just want to make sure: the KBC poker 2 has ONLY standard keycap sizes, right? So there would be no hassle getting keycaps for it?
Correct.
Okey, thanks.. Does anyone have experience with the acrylic cases from qtan? They look sweet, but I don't wanna buy something that's not worth it ^^' The MOST tempting thing is to buy an aluminum case, but I'm not gonna do that just yet :)) I haven't even bought a single KB yet!
Low quality, I've had two - but they do change the feel and sound so they are definitely better than the stock Poker 2 case, IMO.
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Okey, I just want to make sure: the KBC poker 2 has ONLY standard keycap sizes, right? So there would be no hassle getting keycaps for it?
Correct.
Okey, thanks.. Does anyone have experience with the acrylic cases from qtan? They look sweet, but I don't wanna buy something that's not worth it ^^' The MOST tempting thing is to buy an aluminum case, but I'm not gonna do that just yet :)) I haven't even bought a single KB yet!
Low quality, I've had two - but they do change the feel and sound so they are definitely better than the stock Poker 2 case, IMO.
Better as in worth spending 30 bucks on it? I know that's probably personal opinion as everything, but what do YOU think ?
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It was worth it for me, and I don't regret the purchase. I sold them later for the same I paid when I figured I wanted to move on to metal.
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Okey, I just want to make sure: the KBC poker 2 has ONLY standard keycap sizes, right? So there would be no hassle getting keycaps for it?
Correct.
Okey, thanks.. Does anyone have experience with the acrylic cases from qtan? They look sweet, but I don't wanna buy something that's not worth it ^^' The MOST tempting thing is to buy an aluminum case, but I'm not gonna do that just yet :)) I haven't even bought a single KB yet!
Low quality, I've had two - but they do change the feel and sound so they are definitely better than the stock Poker 2 case, IMO.
Better as in worth spending 30 bucks on it? I know that's probably personal opinion as everything, but what do YOU think ?
Probably.
Custom cases make all boards miles better.
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It was worth it for me, and I don't regret the purchase. I sold them later for the same I paid when I figured I wanted to move on to metal.
Hmm, okey.. I might order a case at the same time as I order a Poker 2 then, 'cause they look pretty sweet. What exactly does a custom case change when it comes to the feel of the board?
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It was worth it for me, and I don't regret the purchase. I sold them later for the same I paid when I figured I wanted to move on to metal.
Hmm, okey.. I might order a case at the same time as I order a Poker 2 then, 'cause they look pretty sweet. What exactly does a custom case change when it comes to the feel of the board?
Custom cases can make the overall typing experience feel more solid. The biggest thing for me with those acrylic cases was the change in sound.
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Okey, epzy, thanks :) I believe I might just wait a bit before I buy an acrylic case though ^^'
Anyways... It's now between the Poker 2 and Race 2.. Would everyone here advise me to get the Poker 2 (it seems like it)? If not, let me know now!
All in fair waaaarn? SOLD!!, to the teenager with a very undecisive mind!
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I say go straight to a metal case :) The extra weight and "solidity" really brings a "premium", high quality feeling to a board.
There is this one from Pexon in the Group Buys: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47776.0
CNC'd aluminum, anodised black, $60 + $16 shipping. It'll fit a Poker 2 nicely. But not a Race 2. Race 2 is a LOT harder to find custom cases for.
Between the Poker 2 and Race 2, it all depends on how often you use the arrows and F keys and how bothered you are by having to use a Fn key to get to them (and of course the keycap availability). I found the F keys really easy to get used to on my Pure 60%, but the arrows takes a bit more practice, since I have to hold shift while using them to select text and then use home, end, del, backspace, ctrl-c, ctrl-v, etc. Also, adding / and * for comments in different places, have to release the Fn key for certain functions. Getting pretty good with it after a couple weeks. Maybe be as fast as on a TKL or board with dedicated arrows in a couple more weeks. Possibly even faster after that due to not having to move my hands so much.
Race 2 will be quicker to get used to. Poker is smaller and easier to get cases and keycaps for.
I'd still rather recommend you get a Keycool 84 than a Race 2, though, if you choose the bigger board. Here is one with Clears. They ship to Norway. No idea how much tax and customs duty you'll have to pay, though: http://www.banggood.com/Keycool-84-White-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Cherry-MX-Clear-Switch-p-89114.html
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I say go straight to a metal case :) The extra weight and "solidity" really brings a "premium", high quality feeling to a board.
There is this one from Pexon in the Group Buys: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47776.0
CNC'd aluminum, anodised black, $60 + $16 shipping. It'll fit a Poker 2 nicely. But not a Race 2. Race 2 is a LOT harder to find custom cases for.
Between the Poker 2 and Race 2, it all depends on how often you use the arrows and F keys and how bothered you are by having to use a Fn key to get to them (and of course the keycap availability). I found the F keys really easy to get used to on my Pure 60%, but the arrows takes a bit more practice, since I have to hold shift while using them to select text and then use home, end, del, backspace, ctrl-c, ctrl-v, etc. Also, adding / and * for comments in different places, have to release the Fn key for certain functions. Getting pretty good with it after a couple weeks. Maybe be as fast as on a TKL or board with dedicated arrows in a couple more weeks. Possibly even faster after that due to not having to move my hands so much.
Race 2 will be quicker to get used to. Poker is smaller and easier to get cases and keycaps for.
I'd still rather recommend you get a Keycool 84 than a Race 2, though, if you choose the bigger board. Here is one with Clears. They ship to Norway. No idea how much tax and customs duty you'll have to pay, though: http://www.banggood.com/Keycool-84-White-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-Cherry-MX-Clear-Switch-p-89114.html
Hmm.. yeah.. well, I kinda don't want to spend too much on a keyboard as of right now.. I'm honestly trying to not use more than 170$ on a board + accessories atm.
And I really don't want to buy let's say a Poker 2, then find out later that it doesn't fit my needs, while having bought a metal case as well. When I find the board that suit my needs perfectly I'll definitely go all out, but 'till then I want to keep the costs low ^^' I do ofc understand that such a philosophy will result in not nearly as good results, but I'm a poor student!
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I think I made a thread about the "gaming" marketing. Or was that someone else?
Anyway, usually they will make it seem like all other keyboards are terrible for gaming. Like Razer.... They claim a 0.2mm difference makes a difference between winning and losing.
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I think I made a thread about the "gaming" marketing. Or was that someone else?
Anyway, usually they will make it seem like all other keyboards are terrible for gaming. Like Razer.... They claim a 0.2mm difference makes a difference between winning and losing.
It's exaggeration, don't think 'g4mers' buy the ever-loving **** out of razer gear for the sole purpose of winning games lol
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they prob buy cause all their friends have razer products and they're like "ooh what's that..noise. I want one too"
well that's how I started getting into mech keyboards :\ - not necessarily for the purpose of winning games lol
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When did we start talking about Razer all of a sudden? O.o
Anyways, is this something worth noting?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/noppoo-choc-wireless?mode=guest_open&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Massdrop%20-%20Master&utm_campaign=Product%20Announcement%202014-05-14&utm_content=Final
Noppoo Choc Mini wireless (can connect via USB) with backlighting.
It has laseretched POM keycaps. I've never seen this board before.
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When did we start talking about Razer all of a sudden? O.o
Anyways, is this something worth noting?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/noppoo-choc-wireless?mode=guest_open&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Massdrop%20-%20Master&utm_campaign=Product%20Announcement%202014-05-14&utm_content=Final
Noppoo Choc Mini wireless (can connect via USB) with backlighting.
It has laseretched POM keycaps. I've never seen this board before.
That's quite nice, actually. Backlit POM caps! :) Still has that 5.5x space bar, though.
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When did we start talking about Razer all of a sudden? O.o
Anyways, is this something worth noting?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/noppoo-choc-wireless?mode=guest_open&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Massdrop%20-%20Master&utm_campaign=Product%20Announcement%202014-05-14&utm_content=Final
Noppoo Choc Mini wireless (can connect via USB) with backlighting.
It has laseretched POM keycaps. I've never seen this board before.
That's quite nice, actually. Backlit POM caps! :) Still has that 5.5x space bar, though.
****ING 5.5x
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Can confirm, did not buy a board to get any better, just because they are a luxury item, and feel so nice.
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When did we start talking about Razer all of a sudden? O.o
Anyways, is this something worth noting?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/noppoo-choc-wireless?mode=guest_open&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Massdrop%20-%20Master&utm_campaign=Product%20Announcement%202014-05-14&utm_content=Final
Noppoo Choc Mini wireless (can connect via USB) with backlighting.
It has laseretched POM keycaps. I've never seen this board before.
That's quite nice, actually. Backlit POM caps! :) Still has that 5.5x space bar, though.
Meh, I could live with not having a replacement spacebar... I think I could at least. Heck, I've said so many things that I've had to take back during this thread! "I WANT BACKLIT", "I don't care about the keycaps material", "I don't want a 75%/60%", "Don't care if the keycaps ain't standard sizes", and more!
EDIT: The "main" info is quite misleading though.. it's only got red switches, and for backlit you need to pay an extra 30 bucks. The red switches is a dealbreaker for me though :/ So I guess it's still between the old Choc mini, Race 2, and the Poker 2. And maybe a TKL.
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When did we start talking about Razer all of a sudden? O.o
Anyways, is this something worth noting?
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/noppoo-choc-wireless?mode=guest_open&utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Massdrop%20-%20Master&utm_campaign=Product%20Announcement%202014-05-14&utm_content=Final
Noppoo Choc Mini wireless (can connect via USB) with backlighting.
It has laseretched POM keycaps. I've never seen this board before.
That's quite nice, actually. Backlit POM caps! :) Still has that 5.5x space bar, though.
Meh, I could live with not having a replacement spacebar... I think I could at least. Heck, I've said so many things that I've had to take back during this thread! "I WANT BACKLIT", "I don't care about the keycaps material", "I don't want a 75%/60%", "Don't care if the keycaps ain't standard sizes", and more!
EDIT: The "main" info is quite misleading though.. it's only got red switches, and for backlit you need to pay an extra 30 bucks. The red switches is a dealbreaker for me though :/ So I guess it's still between the old Choc mini, Race 2, and the Poker 2. And maybe a TKL.
Spacebars are one of the first to shine, because its hit the most and your thumb rests on it most of the time. Also, as the biggest key, having that one part not able to change around will screw up any replacement set
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Something worth noting about the Race 2... It has a programmable function layer like the Poker 2. Not that there's much need for it, IMHO, but there you are.
While considering this whole situation it occured to me that it may not be a bad idea to take epzy up on his offer of his G2Pro TKL with Clears for a few reasons:
1. It's a board you should easily be able to sell on to another GH'er if you want to replace it. Most likely for a similar price you bought it for.
2. It should be relatively affordable.
3. You get to try Clear switches.
4. As a TKL you won't miss out on any keys you may discover you need if you get a 60%. You can set up a second layer on the TKL with AutoHotkey or similar application (binding say left WinKey + others as a function layer) and test how a Poker would feel by just using the 60% area of the board, so you can figure out if you can live with a 60% or not.
5. It's still smaller than a full size board.
6. It's a good quality mechanical board that's compatible with any ISO keycap set or TKL case.
7. You're getting it from a trusted GH'er in the same country, so no issues with taxes, customs, etc...
Then, once you know if you need a 60% or 75% board, you can sell the G2Pro and buy your ultimate endgame board. Or keep the TKL if you discover it's the form factor for you. Most people progress from one mechanical to another that they discover along the way is better suited to them. It's almost impossible to jusmp straight to the ideal board for you unless you really KNOW what it'll be like to use that particular board. The G2Pro is a good place to start.
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Something worth noting about the Race 2... It has a programmable function layer like the Poker 2. Not that there's much need for it, IMHO, but there you are.
While considering this whole situation it occured to me that it may not be a bad idea to take epzy up on his offer of his G2Pro TKL with Clears for a few reasons:
1. It's a board you should easily be able to sell on to another GH'er if you want to replace it. Most likely for a similar price you bought it for.
2. It should be relatively affordable.
3. You get to try Clear switches.
4. As a TKL you won't miss out on any keys you may discover you need if you get a 60%. You can set up a second layer on the TKL with AutoHotkey or similar application (binding say left WinKey + others as a function layer) and test how a Poker would feel by just using the 60% area of the board, so you can figure out if you can live with a 60% or not.
5. It's still smaller than a full size board.
6. It's a good quality mechanical board that's compatible with any ISO keycap set or TKL case.
7. You're getting it from a trusted GH'er in the same country, so no issues with taxes, customs, etc...
Then, once you know if you need a 60% or 75% board, you can sell the G2Pro and buy your ultimate endgame board. Or keep the TKL if you discover it's the form factor for you. Most people progress from one mechanical to another that they discover along the way is better suited to them. It's almost impossible to jusmp straight to the ideal board for you unless you really KNOW what it'll be like to use that particular board. The G2Pro is a good place to start.
You've definetely got a very good point here, I have to admit. Honestly, I know this might sound very silly, but the major thing holding me back is that are "no" legends (as in they're black), and the board does not have backlighting (only WASD, as you probably know).. I'm scared that might annoy me way too much.. obviously, that is something I would not know unless i ACTUALLY try it.. second: I think clears might be too heavy, but once again.. that is something I have to try >_<
third: The thought of having a small board where my mouse is a lot closer to my alphas is something i really want. With my fullsize as of now I'm extremely annoyed by the TK on the right hand side. I'm sceptical wether or not a TKL would be "sufficient" in reducing that annoyance, but ONCE AGAIN, I guess I have to try it >_> :))
EDIT: Oh, and btw.. I've actually programmed my gaming KB with AHK so that it resembles a Poker 2. But I've got an exam coming up tomorrow and on monday, so I haven't really got any time to try it out!
EDIT2: I don't know wether he's got it available anymore though.. I told him to take the offer if someone else wanted to buy it, 'cause I knew it'd take me a long time to decide :))
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lol, well okay, seems you have things covered.
Take your time, try out the "layered" version of your keyboard and figure out if a 60% will suit you. Remember you can reprogram the Poker 2 with ANY layout and you can switch the Pn with the Fn functionality, so it uses your programmed layout when you use any of the Fn keys. Also, you have quite a few options of keys to use as Fn keys using the DIP switches. I like the idea of using Caps Lock or left Win key, but it's personal. It's remarkably flexible, really.
An idea I had and posted in another thread is to put the F keys on the Fn layer around the left hand home row so you can get them really quickly when gaming, especially if you use CapsLock as a Fn key (QWER as F1 to F4, ASDF as F5 to F8, etc.).
I have to say that the more I use my Pure, the more I love it. The layout has been surprisingly easy to get used to, but I don't use the F keys when gaming.
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lol, well okay, seems you have things covered.
Take your time, try out the "layered" version of your keyboard and figure out if a 60% will suit you. Remember you can reprogram the Poker 2 with ANY layout and you can switch the Pn with the Fn functionality, so it uses your programmed layout when you use any of the Fn keys. Also, you have quite a few options of keys to use as Fn keys using the DIP switches. I like the idea of using Caps Lock or left Win key, but it's personal. It's remarkably flexible, really.
An idea I had and posted in another thread is to put the F keys on the Fn layer around the left hand home row so you can get them really quickly when gaming, especially if you use CapsLock as a Fn key (QWER as F1 to F4, ASDF as F5 to F8, etc.).
I have to say that the more I use my Pure, the more I love it. The layout has been surprisingly easy to get used to, but I don't use the F keys when gaming.
Yeah, if I get a poker 2 I'm planning on using Caps as my Fn, or change my arrow keys to the left hand side so that I can use them with only one hand :) That's something I'll have to experiment with. I'm still considering the G2 Pro though.. because I know I loved the feeling of blues (I tried the greens (Razer!) on the BW TE. Closest I could get), so I'm thinking clears might be closer to my preferences (especially if I change the springs). However, I'm very intruiged by the small formfactor of 75% and 60%s, so I'm thinking TKL might be too big! Also, there's the backlit and all that shizzles..
GOD, I wish someone could just say BUY THAT ONE, but I know it's way too much subjective opinion involved in this. >_>
EDIT: I don't use the F keys either when I'm gaming.. At least not in any of the games I've played so far. And if I ever DO need them, I believe the F keys on a poker 2 would be way easier to reach than the F keys on a TKL (Caps plus 1-9 is easier than reaching all the way up to F1-12 on a TKL ^^)
EDIT2: So, if I buy a Poker 2, would that be easy to sell later, if I find out the formfactor ain't suited for me? :)
EDIT number 18573: An option is also the Leopold FC660M, though it lacks the cool onboard programming you can do with both the race and poker 2. And also, it's possible to install LEDs on a poker 2, which I really want to do :D (I love the glowing effect), which isn't possible on the leopold.
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lol, well okay, seems you have things covered.
Take your time, try out the "layered" version of your keyboard and figure out if a 60% will suit you. Remember you can reprogram the Poker 2 with ANY layout and you can switch the Pn with the Fn functionality, so it uses your programmed layout when you use any of the Fn keys. Also, you have quite a few options of keys to use as Fn keys using the DIP switches. I like the idea of using Caps Lock or left Win key, but it's personal. It's remarkably flexible, really.
An idea I had and posted in another thread is to put the F keys on the Fn layer around the left hand home row so you can get them really quickly when gaming, especially if you use CapsLock as a Fn key (QWER as F1 to F4, ASDF as F5 to F8, etc.).
I have to say that the more I use my Pure, the more I love it. The layout has been surprisingly easy to get used to, but I don't use the F keys when gaming.
Yeah, if I get a poker 2 I'm planning on using Caps as my Fn, or change my arrow keys to the left hand side so that I can use them with only one hand :) That's something I'll have to experiment with. I'm still considering the G2 Pro though.. because I know I loved the feeling of blues (I tried the greens (Razer!) on the BW TE. Closest I could get), so I'm thinking clears might be closer to my preferences (especially if I change the springs). However, I'm very intruiged by the small formfactor of 75% and 60%s, so I'm thinking TKL might be too big! Also, there's the backlit and all that shizzles..
GOD, I wish someone could just say BUY THAT ONE, but I know it's way too much subjective opinion involved in this. >_>
EDIT: I don't use the F keys either when I'm gaming.. At least not in any of the games I've played so far. And if I ever DO need them, I believe the F keys on a poker 2 would be way easier to reach than the F keys on a TKL (Caps plus 1-9 is easier than reaching all the way up to F1-12 on a TKL ^^)
EDIT2: So, if I buy a Poker 2, would that be easy to sell later, if I find out the formfactor ain't suited for me? :)
EDIT number 18573: An option is also the Leopold FC660M, though it lacks the cool onboard programming you can do with both the race and poker 2. And also, it's possible to install LEDs on a poker 2, which I really want to do :D (I love the glowing effect), which isn't possible on the leopold.
Arrow keys on the Poker II are bound to FN + WASD, so if you change your FN to be on CAPS then you'll be able to use it left-hand only out-of-the-box.
Also consider MX Locks if you plan on using the arrowkeys a lot (requires little mod)
Also it's available in Black Blue Brown Red, and nothing will stop you changing them to clears.
From my personnal experience, i bought my Poker II to try the 60%, it's a never lookback. Only thing i might consider is the same layout with a numpad like on the QuickFire TKL.
Poker II can be resold as used very easily, you'll most probably find a local buyer. Just make sure to keep it clean. The board is really well developped with it's FN layer and additionnal PN layer, therefore i hardly think the layout won't fit you.
Also Poker II can be bought with LEDs nowaday, no need to add them manually.
Last thing, maybe you should check about the Race 2, i believe you're statement saying it's programmable is wrong, but that's as far as i know, maybe i'm wrong. I believe KBC only have the Poker II programmable.
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lol, well okay, seems you have things covered.
Take your time, try out the "layered" version of your keyboard and figure out if a 60% will suit you. Remember you can reprogram the Poker 2 with ANY layout and you can switch the Pn with the Fn functionality, so it uses your programmed layout when you use any of the Fn keys. Also, you have quite a few options of keys to use as Fn keys using the DIP switches. I like the idea of using Caps Lock or left Win key, but it's personal. It's remarkably flexible, really.
An idea I had and posted in another thread is to put the F keys on the Fn layer around the left hand home row so you can get them really quickly when gaming, especially if you use CapsLock as a Fn key (QWER as F1 to F4, ASDF as F5 to F8, etc.).
I have to say that the more I use my Pure, the more I love it. The layout has been surprisingly easy to get used to, but I don't use the F keys when gaming.
Yeah, if I get a poker 2 I'm planning on using Caps as my Fn, or change my arrow keys to the left hand side so that I can use them with only one hand :) That's something I'll have to experiment with. I'm still considering the G2 Pro though.. because I know I loved the feeling of blues (I tried the greens (Razer!) on the BW TE. Closest I could get), so I'm thinking clears might be closer to my preferences (especially if I change the springs). However, I'm very intruiged by the small formfactor of 75% and 60%s, so I'm thinking TKL might be too big! Also, there's the backlit and all that shizzles..
GOD, I wish someone could just say BUY THAT ONE, but I know it's way too much subjective opinion involved in this. >_>
EDIT: I don't use the F keys either when I'm gaming.. At least not in any of the games I've played so far. And if I ever DO need them, I believe the F keys on a poker 2 would be way easier to reach than the F keys on a TKL (Caps plus 1-9 is easier than reaching all the way up to F1-12 on a TKL ^^)
EDIT2: So, if I buy a Poker 2, would that be easy to sell later, if I find out the formfactor ain't suited for me? :)
EDIT number 18573: An option is also the Leopold FC660M, though it lacks the cool onboard programming you can do with both the race and poker 2. And also, it's possible to install LEDs on a poker 2, which I really want to do :D (I love the glowing effect), which isn't possible on the leopold.
Arrow keys on the Poker II are bound to FN + WASD, so if you change your FN to be on CAPS then you'll be able to use it left-hand only out-of-the-box.
Also consider MX Locks if you plan on using the arrowkeys a lot (requires little mod)
Also it's available in Black Blue Brown Red, and nothing will stop you changing them to clears.
From my personnal experience, i bought my Poker II to try the 60%, it's a never lookback. Only thing i might consider is the same layout with a numpad like on the QuickFire TKL.
Poker II can be resold as used very easily, you'll most probably find a local buyer. Just make sure to keep it clean. The board is really well developped with it's FN layer and additionnal PN layer, therefore i hardly think the layout won't fit you.
Also Poker II can be bought with LEDs nowaday, no need to add them manually.
Last thing, maybe you should check about the Race 2, i believe you're statement saying it's programmable is wrong, but that's as far as i know, maybe i'm wrong. I believe KBC only have the Poker II programmable.
1. I know the poker 2 has a backlit version, but I want the PBT caps..
2. Yes, the Race 2 is programmable, I'm one hundred percent positive
3. Sorry, I meant "able to use the arrowkeys with only the right hand", I mixed up left and right :))
4. I've never heard about the MX locks, so I'll check that out, thanks!
5. What's stopping me from modding it with clears is the cost. The switches itself will cost just as much as the whole board if I ever want to buy clears separately.
EDIT: Okey, I checked out the MX Locks. But the poker 2 has the possibility of "permanently" activating the Pn layer, so that would work just like an MX lock. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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lol, well okay, seems you have things covered.
Take your time, try out the "layered" version of your keyboard and figure out if a 60% will suit you. Remember you can reprogram the Poker 2 with ANY layout and you can switch the Pn with the Fn functionality, so it uses your programmed layout when you use any of the Fn keys. Also, you have quite a few options of keys to use as Fn keys using the DIP switches. I like the idea of using Caps Lock or left Win key, but it's personal. It's remarkably flexible, really.
An idea I had and posted in another thread is to put the F keys on the Fn layer around the left hand home row so you can get them really quickly when gaming, especially if you use CapsLock as a Fn key (QWER as F1 to F4, ASDF as F5 to F8, etc.).
I have to say that the more I use my Pure, the more I love it. The layout has been surprisingly easy to get used to, but I don't use the F keys when gaming.
Yeah, if I get a poker 2 I'm planning on using Caps as my Fn, or change my arrow keys to the left hand side so that I can use them with only one hand :) That's something I'll have to experiment with. I'm still considering the G2 Pro though.. because I know I loved the feeling of blues (I tried the greens (Razer!) on the BW TE. Closest I could get), so I'm thinking clears might be closer to my preferences (especially if I change the springs). However, I'm very intruiged by the small formfactor of 75% and 60%s, so I'm thinking TKL might be too big! Also, there's the backlit and all that shizzles..
GOD, I wish someone could just say BUY THAT ONE, but I know it's way too much subjective opinion involved in this. >_>
EDIT: I don't use the F keys either when I'm gaming.. At least not in any of the games I've played so far. And if I ever DO need them, I believe the F keys on a poker 2 would be way easier to reach than the F keys on a TKL (Caps plus 1-9 is easier than reaching all the way up to F1-12 on a TKL ^^)
EDIT2: So, if I buy a Poker 2, would that be easy to sell later, if I find out the formfactor ain't suited for me? :)
EDIT number 18573: An option is also the Leopold FC660M, though it lacks the cool onboard programming you can do with both the race and poker 2. And also, it's possible to install LEDs on a poker 2, which I really want to do :D (I love the glowing effect), which isn't possible on the leopold.
Arrow keys on the Poker II are bound to FN + WASD, so if you change your FN to be on CAPS then you'll be able to use it left-hand only out-of-the-box.
Also consider MX Locks if you plan on using the arrowkeys a lot (requires little mod)
Also it's available in Black Blue Brown Red, and nothing will stop you changing them to clears.
From my personnal experience, i bought my Poker II to try the 60%, it's a never lookback. Only thing i might consider is the same layout with a numpad like on the QuickFire TKL.
Poker II can be resold as used very easily, you'll most probably find a local buyer. Just make sure to keep it clean. The board is really well developped with it's FN layer and additionnal PN layer, therefore i hardly think the layout won't fit you.
Also Poker II can be bought with LEDs nowaday, no need to add them manually.
Last thing, maybe you should check about the Race 2, i believe you're statement saying it's programmable is wrong, but that's as far as i know, maybe i'm wrong. I believe KBC only have the Poker II programmable.
1. I know the poker 2 has a backlit version, but I want the PBT caps..
2. Yes, the Race 2 is programmable, I'm one hundred percent positive
3. Sorry, I meant "able to use the arrowkeys with only the right hand", I mixed up left and right :))
4. I've never heard about the MX locks, so I'll check that out, thanks!
5. What's stopping me from modding it with clears is the cost. The switches itself will cost just as much as the whole board if I ever want to buy clears separately.
EDIT: Okey, I checked out the MX Locks. But the poker 2 has the possibility of "permanently" activating the Pn layer, so that would work just like an MX lock. Correct me if I'm wrong.
1. Totally forgot about the caps, you are right on going with PBT, LED backlite will be cooler with opaque keys. But i wish you good luck on finding those, i can't find them anymore myself online :/
2. Just learned something thanks
3. lol
4. I think the PN can stay on after a while but i'm pretty sure the FN doesn't. I've had this bug there FN would stay on only for the arrow keys on WASD so i couldn't type anymore using my WASD. It was a pain in the ass lol but anyway i believe for the FN layer you're best bet is an MX lock. Maybe you could ask a more advanced Poker II user (Because i totally ain't with my single year of use)
5. http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=search_list&s[search]=&s[title]=Y&s[short_desc]=Y&s[full_desc]=Y&s[sku]=Y&s[match]=all&s[cid]=43 OR maybe you can directly contact cherry to get them straight out of them
Hope that helped you. Gotta get back to work before the boss comes in and cuts my Mechanical Keyboards funds.
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lol, well okay, seems you have things covered.
Take your time, try out the "layered" version of your keyboard and figure out if a 60% will suit you. Remember you can reprogram the Poker 2 with ANY layout and you can switch the Pn with the Fn functionality, so it uses your programmed layout when you use any of the Fn keys. Also, you have quite a few options of keys to use as Fn keys using the DIP switches. I like the idea of using Caps Lock or left Win key, but it's personal. It's remarkably flexible, really.
An idea I had and posted in another thread is to put the F keys on the Fn layer around the left hand home row so you can get them really quickly when gaming, especially if you use CapsLock as a Fn key (QWER as F1 to F4, ASDF as F5 to F8, etc.).
I have to say that the more I use my Pure, the more I love it. The layout has been surprisingly easy to get used to, but I don't use the F keys when gaming.
Yeah, if I get a poker 2 I'm planning on using Caps as my Fn, or change my arrow keys to the left hand side so that I can use them with only one hand :) That's something I'll have to experiment with. I'm still considering the G2 Pro though.. because I know I loved the feeling of blues (I tried the greens (Razer!) on the BW TE. Closest I could get), so I'm thinking clears might be closer to my preferences (especially if I change the springs). However, I'm very intruiged by the small formfactor of 75% and 60%s, so I'm thinking TKL might be too big! Also, there's the backlit and all that shizzles..
GOD, I wish someone could just say BUY THAT ONE, but I know it's way too much subjective opinion involved in this. >_>
EDIT: I don't use the F keys either when I'm gaming.. At least not in any of the games I've played so far. And if I ever DO need them, I believe the F keys on a poker 2 would be way easier to reach than the F keys on a TKL (Caps plus 1-9 is easier than reaching all the way up to F1-12 on a TKL ^^)
EDIT2: So, if I buy a Poker 2, would that be easy to sell later, if I find out the formfactor ain't suited for me? :)
EDIT number 18573: An option is also the Leopold FC660M, though it lacks the cool onboard programming you can do with both the race and poker 2. And also, it's possible to install LEDs on a poker 2, which I really want to do :D (I love the glowing effect), which isn't possible on the leopold.
Arrow keys on the Poker II are bound to FN + WASD, so if you change your FN to be on CAPS then you'll be able to use it left-hand only out-of-the-box.
Also consider MX Locks if you plan on using the arrowkeys a lot (requires little mod)
Also it's available in Black Blue Brown Red, and nothing will stop you changing them to clears.
From my personnal experience, i bought my Poker II to try the 60%, it's a never lookback. Only thing i might consider is the same layout with a numpad like on the QuickFire TKL.
Poker II can be resold as used very easily, you'll most probably find a local buyer. Just make sure to keep it clean. The board is really well developped with it's FN layer and additionnal PN layer, therefore i hardly think the layout won't fit you.
Also Poker II can be bought with LEDs nowaday, no need to add them manually.
Last thing, maybe you should check about the Race 2, i believe you're statement saying it's programmable is wrong, but that's as far as i know, maybe i'm wrong. I believe KBC only have the Poker II programmable.
1. I know the poker 2 has a backlit version, but I want the PBT caps..
2. Yes, the Race 2 is programmable, I'm one hundred percent positive
3. Sorry, I meant "able to use the arrowkeys with only the right hand", I mixed up left and right :))
4. I've never heard about the MX locks, so I'll check that out, thanks!
5. What's stopping me from modding it with clears is the cost. The switches itself will cost just as much as the whole board if I ever want to buy clears separately.
EDIT: Okey, I checked out the MX Locks. But the poker 2 has the possibility of "permanently" activating the Pn layer, so that would work just like an MX lock. Correct me if I'm wrong.
1. Totally forgot about the caps, you are right on going with PBT, LED backlite will be cooler with opaque keys. But i wish you good luck on finding those, i can't find them anymore myself online :/
2. Just learned something thanks
3. lol
4. I think the PN can stay on after a while but i'm pretty sure the FN doesn't. I've had this bug there FN would stay on only for the arrow keys on WASD so i couldn't type anymore using my WASD. It was a pain in the ass lol but anyway i believe for the FN layer you're best bet is an MX lock. Maybe you could ask a more advanced Poker II user (Because i totally ain't with my single year of use)
5. http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=search_list&s[search]=&s[title]=Y&s[short_desc]=Y&s[full_desc]=Y&s[sku]=Y&s[match]=all&s[cid]=43 OR maybe you can directly contact cherry to get them straight out of them
Hope that helped you. Gotta get back to work before the boss comes in and cuts my Mechanical Keyboards funds.
O wat.. Thanks for making me check at mechanicalkeyboards.com again... I've been looking at the price of a single clear switch, and NOT at the cost for a pack of hundred >_> Okey, so switching to clears would only cost about 50 bucks then (got all soldering equipment etc. that's needed).
Just to get this right: A poker 2 is plate mounted, right? :)
EDIT: Oh, btw.. what you said about the Fn key, I believe you're right, and there's no way of "permanently" activating it. However, what I was planning on doing was to programm the arrowkeys into the Pn layer, which solves the problem :)
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O wat.. Thanks for making me check at mechanicalkeyboards.com again... I've been looking at the price of a single clear switch, and NOT at the cost for a pack of hundred >_> Okey, so switching to clears would only cost about 50 bucks then (got all soldering equipment etc. that's needed).
Just to get this right: A poker 2 is plate mounted, right? :)
EDIT: Oh, btw.. what you said about the Fn key, I believe you're right, and there's no way of "permanently" activating it. However, what I was planning on doing was to programm the arrowkeys into the Pn layer, which solves the problem :)
I took off the whole citation stuff it was getting too long.
Check this out : http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46376.0
Confirms Poker 2 is plate mount. Read the whole Bluebär's post to make sure you ain't missing anything (he's really senior about keyboards, did pretty much everything it seems).
If you plan on binding things to the PN layer, make sure you really bind everything you will need, because classic layout inputs will not be accessible in PN mode. PN mode is incredibly powerful yet very confusing sometimes. You'll get used to it, it gets better once you know how it works properly.
I'm personnaly switching my browns Poker II to clears next month when i'll have the spare money. I'll change the whole typing field and leave the modifiers to brown, and put a gray for spacebar and escape.
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O wat.. Thanks for making me check at mechanicalkeyboards.com again... I've been looking at the price of a single clear switch, and NOT at the cost for a pack of hundred >_> Okey, so switching to clears would only cost about 50 bucks then (got all soldering equipment etc. that's needed).
Just to get this right: A poker 2 is plate mounted, right? :)
EDIT: Oh, btw.. what you said about the Fn key, I believe you're right, and there's no way of "permanently" activating it. However, what I was planning on doing was to programm the arrowkeys into the Pn layer, which solves the problem :)
I took off the whole citation stuff it was getting too long.
Check this out : http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46376.0
Confirms Poker 2 is plate mount. Read the whole Bluebär's post to make sure you ain't missing anything (he's really senior about keyboards, did pretty much everything it seems).
If you plan on binding things to the PN layer, make sure you really bind everything you will need, because classic layout inputs will not be accessible in PN mode. PN mode is incredibly powerful yet very confusing sometimes. You'll get used to it, it gets better once you know how it works properly.
I'm personnaly switching my browns Poker II to clears next month when i'll have the spare money. I'll change the whole typing field and leave the modifiers to brown, and put a gray for spacebar and escape.
Lol, I didn't even realise it was that long.
And yeah, if I'm gonna use the Pn layer I know I have to program everything I need, I got it all sorted out ^^ thanks for the link, even though I might've read it before. Nonetheless, it's useful!
And yeah, I think what I'm gonna do at this stage is buy a Poker 2 with browns, and see how I like it. If I like the formfactor I'll keep it, and maybe put on some different switches. If I don't like the formfactor I'll just sell it ^^
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O wat.. Thanks for making me check at mechanicalkeyboards.com again... I've been looking at the price of a single clear switch, and NOT at the cost for a pack of hundred >_> Okey, so switching to clears would only cost about 50 bucks then (got all soldering equipment etc. that's needed).
Just to get this right: A poker 2 is plate mounted, right? :)
EDIT: Oh, btw.. what you said about the Fn key, I believe you're right, and there's no way of "permanently" activating it. However, what I was planning on doing was to programm the arrowkeys into the Pn layer, which solves the problem :)
I took off the whole citation stuff it was getting too long.
Check this out : http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46376.0
Confirms Poker 2 is plate mount. Read the whole Bluebär's post to make sure you ain't missing anything (he's really senior about keyboards, did pretty much everything it seems).
If you plan on binding things to the PN layer, make sure you really bind everything you will need, because classic layout inputs will not be accessible in PN mode. PN mode is incredibly powerful yet very confusing sometimes. You'll get used to it, it gets better once you know how it works properly.
I'm personnaly switching my browns Poker II to clears next month when i'll have the spare money. I'll change the whole typing field and leave the modifiers to brown, and put a gray for spacebar and escape.
Lol, I didn't even realise it was that long.
And yeah, if I'm gonna use the Pn layer I know I have to program everything I need, I got it all sorted out ^^ thanks for the link, even though I might've read it before. Nonetheless, it's useful!
And yeah, I think what I'm gonna do at this stage is buy a Poker 2 with browns, and see how I like it. If I like the formfactor I'll keep it, and maybe put on some different switches. If I don't like the formfactor I'll just sell it ^^
Yeah. It's not very expensive, one of the most cost-efficient imo. You'll enjoy as far as i'm concerned because it's really well engineered. Browns is a very good choice imo, getting into mechanical with tactiles or clicky is the best in my opinion since it really signs off the whole mechanical thing/frenzy over here.
Also if you play games such as FPS or mmo you'll really like that form factor, saves space for the mouse and it's usable just like a gamepad.
Really nice board i do recommend. 10/10 on everything i type i would retype it again.
Plus the board has an infinit amound of swag
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Yo guys, just wanna quickly stop by and say that my KBC Poker 2 with MX Browns is now ordered! :D Oh... and some novelty keycaps... I couldn't resist :))
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Congratulations!
Now we'll want pics when it arrives, okay?
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Congratulations!
Now we'll want pics when it arrives, okay?
Haha, we'll see ^.^ and thank you :) let's just hope I like the formfactor! Nonetheless, I'm excited :D
... and I should totally be sleeping right now :rolleyes:
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Congrats! Lets hope that it is the right keyboard for you. Which novelty keycaps did you buy?
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Congrats! Lets hope that it is the right keyboard for you. Which novelty keycaps did you buy?
I don't know if they count as novelty caps, but from my understanding they do ^^' a sagittarius green cap, L from deathnote, yinyang, and something I don't know what is, but it looked cool :)) CRAP.. I just realised I forgot to buy one of the red ESC leopold caps :c
EDIT: Exam in five minutes, wish me good luck! Just wanna point out the fact that the last thing I did before the exam was lurking at the GH forum! :))
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Good luck! Hope it goes well for you.
I guess you're hooked now... welcome to WalletHack. I just can't seem to stop myself ordering new keycap sets...
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Good luck! Hope it goes well for you.
I guess you're hooked now... welcome to WalletHack. I just can't seem to stop myself ordering new keycap sets...
I guess there's no way back now :)) It's a poor, but happy place ^^,
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Congrats! Lets hope that it is the right keyboard for you. Which novelty keycaps did you buy?
I don't know if they count as novelty caps, but from my understanding they do ^^' a sagittarius green cap, L from deathnote, yinyang, and something I don't know what is, but it looked cool :)) CRAP.. I just realised I forgot to buy one of the red ESC leopold caps :c
EDIT: Exam in five minutes, wish me good luck! Just wanna point out the fact that the last thing I did before the exam was lurking at the GH forum! :))
A Little late but good luck! Nice caps!
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Congrats! Lets hope that it is the right keyboard for you. Which novelty keycaps did you buy?
I don't know if they count as novelty caps, but from my understanding they do ^^' a sagittarius green cap, L from deathnote, yinyang, and something I don't know what is, but it looked cool :)) CRAP.. I just realised I forgot to buy one of the red ESC leopold caps :c
EDIT: Exam in five minutes, wish me good luck! Just wanna point out the fact that the last thing I did before the exam was lurking at the GH forum! :))
A Little late but good luck! Nice caps!
Haha, cheers bud! I'm all done now :D Feels good to get that outta the way.. Gonna enjoy the rest of the day now ^^
And thanks :)
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Congrats! Lets hope that it is the right keyboard for you. Which novelty keycaps did you buy?
I don't know if they count as novelty caps, but from my understanding they do ^^' a sagittarius green cap, L from deathnote, yinyang, and something I don't know what is, but it looked cool :)) CRAP.. I just realised I forgot to buy one of the red ESC leopold caps :c
EDIT: Exam in five minutes, wish me good luck! Just wanna point out the fact that the last thing I did before the exam was lurking at the GH forum! :))
A Little late but good luck! Nice caps!
Haha, cheers bud! I'm all done now :D Feels good to get that outta the way.. Gonna enjoy the rest of the day now ^^
And thanks :)
I know how it feels. Enjoy the rest of the day as you said!
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Yo guys!
First of all: happy birthday to however's Norwegian (National day) :D
Second: I was just wondering how the tracking works for qtan's store. In the "invoice mail" I got from him it says that I can follow the latest status of my order following a link in the mail. However, doesn't seems like I find any status update on the order. Is that because I'm in the wrong place, or is it because it haven't been sent? :)
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Cm Storm is my favourite gaming board and always will be! Ten key less and gets the job done :)