[IC] Eng grain cutting boards

[The_Beast]

Anyone interested in an end grain cutting board? Here's one I made:



Here are some examples of what can be made:







Why are they better:

End-Grain Cutting Boards are the best cutting boards to be found and will meet the needs of the most discerning customer. More durable than regular cutting boards, these end-grain boards look beautiful on your countertop. An end-grain is a much harder surface and has a greater tolerance for the chopping motion. These boards give a truly resistant cutting surface while being kind to the blade’s sharp edge.

The old fashioned cutting boards were always end-grain design (the chopping block) for a reason, it keeps the knives much sharper. Instead of crushing against the wood fibers the blade goes between them much like cutting into a firm brush. You will find that your blade edges last much longer, and you'll see no knife marks on the board.

When the individual boards of wood are arranged so that the grain of the wood runs vertically (up and down), this puts one end of each board up so that the cutting surface is actually the end of many individual pieces of hardwood. With the grain aligned in this manner (up and down), when the knife strikes the surface during cutting, the grain of the wood actually separates and then closes when the knife is removed. This accounts for the self-healing aspect of the end-grain surface. The wood itself is not cut, but instead you are cutting between the fibers.

Why buy one from me?
 - You get to choose the size, thickness and woods used
 - You get to support a fellow geekhacker (and college student)

[Halverson]

I want the eng grain board!

But really, my last one was cheaply made and cracked a few months ago.

Not really sure what woods are best used for this.

Anyway, interested....we'll talk when I get back home. 

[codyeatworld]

I made one of these in woodshop back as a freshman, my parents still use to this day! (not as complex as yours) Great gift and to have around in general.

PM incoming btw!

[SpAmRaY]

possibly interested....

[Pacifist]

How much?

[digi]

Depending on cost, I would be interested in a large board with those juice gutter thingy's around the side for my bbq action.  Very nice work btw.

[Findecanor]

Why would I want a cutting board made from several pieces of wood?

[swill]

Why would I want a cutting board made from several pieces of wood?

Because they are pretty.

I have 5 or 6 custom cutting boards already to go with my shun knives.

[The_Beast]

I made one of these in woodshop back as a freshman, my parents still use to this day! (not as complex as yours) Great gift and to have around in general.

PM incoming btw!

The first one shown, I use it every day pretty much. I love it!

How much?

(Length x width x thickness) x .3 = price (for maple, no pattern)

So if you wanted a 12" x 12" x 1" cutting board, it would be around $43. The modifier will change based on woods or if you want a special pattern as well as if you want a large board (it would lower, it's more wood used but less setup time)

Depending on cost, I would be interested in a large board with those juice gutter thingy's around the side for my bbq action.  Very nice work btw.

I could handle some drip channels on the CNC router I have. I should even be able to do some complex shapes.

Why would I want a cutting board made from several pieces of wood?

Glueing up wood actually makes it stronger. It's very hard to break a piece of wood on the glue line if it's glued properly. Also see the "Why are they better:" section in the original post.

[Elrick]

Here are some examples of what can be made:

Show Image

Why buy one from me?
 - You get to choose the size, thickness and woods used
 - You get to support a fellow geekhacker (and college student)

Okay if you are for real, then I would like to buy this one you've made already.  I'm all for supporting college students and the example you've provided seems to be quite sturdy.  Good to see someone who has a love of fashioning wood into useful implements.

Always needed a cutting board for chopping large shanks of meat off the bone.  Every cutting board I've used in the past has shattered or broken when used (crappy manufactured junk).  If you can make a REAL cutting board for 'Dexter-style' cutting then I'll buy one off you for sure.

[The_Beast]

Here are some examples of what can be made:

Show Image

Why buy one from me?
 - You get to choose the size, thickness and woods used
 - You get to support a fellow geekhacker (and college student)

Okay if you are for real, then I would like to buy this one you've made already.  I'm all for supporting college students and the example you've provided seems to be quite sturdy.  Good to see someone who has a love of fashioning wood into useful implements.

Always needed a cutting board for chopping large shanks of meat off the bone.  Every cutting board I've used in the past has shattered or broken when used (crappy manufactured junk).  If you can make a REAL cutting board for 'Dexter-style' cutting then I'll buy one off you for sure.

Actually, it's easier for me to make these boards when I'm at school since I can use the CNC router to level the cutting boards instead of building a router sled at my winter/summer shop. I'll make a note to PM you when I can make these

[Elrick]

Glueing up wood actually makes it stronger. It's very hard to break a piece of wood on the glue line if it's glued properly. Also see the "Why are they better:" section in the original post.

Most important is that the glue is water proof to withstand washing and able to cope with extreme chopping of meat and raw vegetables, over and over again.  Also the glue needs to resist extreme temperatures here in Perth, when it gets to 45 degrees celcius which is 113F your temp scale.  Sometimes it stays at that temp for days over a two week period before it cycles through that temp again all through Summer.

[The_Beast]

Glueing up wood actually makes it stronger. It's very hard to break a piece of wood on the glue line if it's glued properly. Also see the "Why are they better:" section in the original post.

Most important is that the glue is water proof to withstand washing and able to withstand extreme chopping of meat and raw vegetables, over and over again.  Also the glue needs to withstand extreme temperatures here in Perth, when it gets to 45 degrees which is 113F your temp scale.  Sometimes it stays at that temp for days over a two week period before it cycles through that temp again all through Summer.

I wash my board with a clean damp cloth. For disinfecting, just some distilled white vinegar. It should be fine in terms of water unless you're soaking it for long periods of time or if you leave it damp and unable to dry itself (I leave mine on it's edge to dry). I can personally say about heat, but on the glue I uses web page it says "Resists solvents, heat and mildew" as well as "Waterproof - Passes ANSI/HPVA Type I Specification"


Here's the page:
http://www.titebond.com/titebond_wood_glues/Ultimate_Wood_Glue.aspx

If it does happen to break (with the caveat that it's my fault, not you leaving it in a puddle or something), I'll refund you for everything but shipping and materials cost (time is the largest expense)

[geogga]

That last one is gorgeous BTW. Love the way the wood's pattern is on each individual block of the entire board.

[Elrick]

I wash my board with a clean damp cloth. For disinfecting, just some distilled white vinegar. It should be fine in terms of water unless you're soaking it for long periods of time or if you leave it damp and unable to dry itself (I leave mine on it's edge to dry). I can personally say about heat, but on the glue I uses web page it says "Resists solvents, heat and mildew" as well as "Waterproof - Passes ANSI/HPVA Type I Specification"


Here's the page:
http://www.titebond.com/titebond_wood_glues/Ultimate_Wood_Glue.aspx

If it does happen to break (with the caveat that it's my fault, not you leaving it in a puddle or something), I'll refund you for everything but shipping and materials cost (time is the largest expense)

Thanks for letting me know.  There's not much chance of ever having too much water about, I live in a very dry place and aside from washing off the blood and ligaments after cutting that would be the only time that it comes into water.  I usually dry it off with a disposable paper towel and leave it to air dry.

Good you've used a quality glue for assembly, that's isn't toxic for food preparation.

Just let me know when you will start making them and what sizes you can manufacture these cutting boards at.  I prefer a large cutting area due to the pieces that need to be chopped.  The wood has to be extremely hard of course for maximum durability.

[swill]

This is what I use on my expensive cutting boards to keep them shiny and new forever...



If you are going to use an oil or wax to maintain your cutting boards, don't be a douche, make sure it is food safe. 

[kmiller8]

This is what I use on my expensive cutting boards to keep them shiny and new forever...

(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

If you are going to use an oil or wax to maintain your cutting boards, don't be a douche, make sure it is food safe. 

I only ever use used motor oil, it's free bro, and it gives a really nice dark color to the wood.

[The_Beast]

I wash my board with a clean damp cloth. For disinfecting, just some distilled white vinegar. It should be fine in terms of water unless you're soaking it for long periods of time or if you leave it damp and unable to dry itself (I leave mine on it's edge to dry). I can personally say about heat, but on the glue I uses web page it says "Resists solvents, heat and mildew" as well as "Waterproof - Passes ANSI/HPVA Type I Specification"


Here's the page:
http://www.titebond.com/titebond_wood_glues/Ultimate_Wood_Glue.aspx

If it does happen to break (with the caveat that it's my fault, not you leaving it in a puddle or something), I'll refund you for everything but shipping and materials cost (time is the largest expense)

Thanks for letting me know.  There's not much chance of ever having too much water about, I live in a very dry place and aside from washing off the blood and ligaments after cutting that would be the only time that it comes into water.  I usually dry it off with a disposable paper towel and leave it to air dry.

Good you've used a quality glue for assembly, that's isn't toxic for food preparation.

Just let me know when you will start making them and what sizes you can manufacture these cutting boards at.  I prefer a large cutting area due to the pieces that need to be chopped.  The wood has to be extremely hard of course for maximum durability.

Will do! Sizes can be pretty much any size you want. Just keep in mind shipping prices to Australia.

This is what I use on my expensive cutting boards to keep them shiny and new forever...

(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

If you are going to use an oil or wax to maintain your cutting boards, don't be a douche, make sure it is food safe. 

I use food grade mineral oil and reapply as needed. A $2 bottle goes quite a long way

[geogga]

Love the wood's pattern on the small individual blocks...especially the last one!

[Sifo]

Is this wood Korean?

Will this make me a professional?

You should make an ask a professional tree thread.

[Halverson]

Is this wood Korean?

Will this make me a professional?

You should make an ask a professional tree thread.

I want to ask a professional Sifo.

[Melvang]

I will def be getting back to you on this.  I am very interested but I need to measure my current cutting boards as I want a touch larger (I have a habit of grilling LARGE steaks and what I call burgers but others will call mini meat loafs).  I would want the drip channel around the edges and the insets in the ends.  I will get back to you in a few days.

[archer]

Hi Beast, that's a beautiful cutting board that you made!

In your OP, you show a couple different patterns that you could do.. checkerboard, wavy, etc.

Does that mean you could do *any* design that I could come up with? For example, could you make a board with a dark wood "background" and a light wood space invader in the middle? (google space invaders cutting board for a reference pic)

[The_Beast]

Hi Beast, that's a beautiful cutting board that you made!

In your OP, you show a couple different patterns that you could do.. checkerboard, wavy, etc.

Does that mean you could do *any* design that I could come up with? For example, could you make a board with a dark wood "background" and a light wood space invader in the middle? (google space invaders cutting board for a reference pic)

I more than likely could


Also, today, I picked up a TON of hickory. The guy at the lumber shop said it was even harder than hard maple, so it should make a nice cutting board that is more wear resistant

[Elrick]

Also, today, I picked up a TON of hickory. The guy at the lumber shop said it was even harder than hard maple, so it should make a nice cutting board that is more wear resistant

That looks like the ideal material for severe chopping.  Just need something able to take the full force of a cleaver when it's used.  I've bought so-called chopping boards that literally broke under my usage.  Cheap (expensive, chinese-made junk) cutting boards that simply break apart after a couple of months.

[skcheng]

I would be interested!!    I would use these as cutting boards or tube amp stands. 

[geniekid]

I'd be in for one or two.