Author Topic: removing paint from top plate  (Read 3753 times)

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Offline gorillionaire

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removing paint from top plate
« on: Sat, 30 April 2016, 15:13:52 »
So I own a das keyboard x40 and I would like to remove the geometric design/ paint from the top panel without damaging the finish of the aluminium. I would also like to retain some of the original labeling on the top panel. attached are a few pictures of the keyboard and the labeling id like to retain. After we come to a general consensus of the materials and best method I will purchase the suggested items and update this post with after pictures of the mod.All input, advice ,and expertise is appreciated.

135878-0135880-1135882-2

Offline absyrd

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Re: removing paint from top plate
« Reply #1 on: Sat, 30 April 2016, 15:15:23 »
Are you sure that is the finish on the aluminum and not a coat of something? Looks like paint to me.
My wife I a also push her button . But now she have her button push by a different men. So I buy a keyboard a mechanicale, she a reliable like a Fiat.

Offline gorillionaire

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Re: removing paint from top plate
« Reply #2 on: Sat, 30 April 2016, 15:18:47 »
Are you sure that is the finish on the aluminum and not a coat of something? Looks like paint to me.

Ive been trying to figure that out and I'm not so sure .I went to the Das website and there isnt much info about the coating of this top plate. I was hoping to just remove the darker grey without effecting the rest. any ideas?

Offline absyrd

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Re: removing paint from top plate
« Reply #3 on: Sat, 30 April 2016, 15:20:24 »
I'm thinking it is ALL coming off no matter what you do.

EDIT: If it was me, I'd just sand it down completely and either leave it with some texture from some fine-grain sandpaper or spraypaint it.
« Last Edit: Sat, 30 April 2016, 15:22:21 by absyrd »
My wife I a also push her button . But now she have her button push by a different men. So I buy a keyboard a mechanicale, she a reliable like a Fiat.

Offline gorillionaire

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Re: removing paint from top plate
« Reply #4 on: Sat, 30 April 2016, 15:25:17 »
I'm thinking it is ALL coming off no matter what you do.

EDIT: If it was me, I'd just sand it down completely and either leave it with some texture from some fine-grain sandpaper or spraypaint it.

any suggestions on the grit of the sand paper?like a chunky grit first then a finer grit after? im not so handy sorry if I sound dumb.

Offline Leslieann

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Re: removing paint from top plate
« Reply #5 on: Sat, 30 April 2016, 15:56:17 »
EZ-Off oven cleaner, wicked stuff, it will even remove anodizing if you want.
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Offline nubbinator

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Re: removing paint from top plate
« Reply #6 on: Sat, 30 April 2016, 16:04:27 »
EZ-Off oven cleaner, wicked stuff, it will even remove anodizing if you want.

I'd try acetone first.  A little less harsh.

Offline gorillionaire

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Re: removing paint from top plate
« Reply #7 on: Sat, 30 April 2016, 16:19:18 »
yeah i was hoping to keep the anodizing so ez off should do it? do i need to let it soak in ?

opps i meant acetone

Offline gorillionaire

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Re: removing paint from top plate
« Reply #8 on: Sat, 30 April 2016, 22:22:07 »
ok so i got some mineral spirits masking tape and a razor and ended up scratching the finish lol epic fail so ill probably ended up ordering a new top plate and calling a sand blasting and powder coating place on monday

Offline Leslieann

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Re: removing paint from top plate
« Reply #9 on: Sat, 30 April 2016, 23:50:13 »
Why order another, sand blasting will probably hide the scratch (that's why lots of cases are sandblasted, to hide milling and casting marks), and what it doesn't cover the powder should. Ask whoever is doing the coating, they should be able to tell you for sure.

Unless you meant anodizing, in which case, again, ask the people doing it, they can tell you pretty fast.
Novelkeys NK65AE w/62g Zilents/39g springs
More
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| Filco MJ2 L.E. Vortex Case, Jailhouse Blues, heavily customized
More
Vortex case squared up/blasted finish removed/custom feet/paint/winkey blockoff plate, HID Liberator, stainless steel universal plate, 3d printed adapters, Type C, Netdot Gen10 magnetic cable, foam sound dampened, HK Gaming Thick PBT caps (o-ringed), Cherry Jailhouse Blues w/lubed/clipped Cherry light springs, 40g actuation
| GMMK TKL
More
w/ Kailh Purple Pros/lubed/Novelkeys 39g springs, HK Gaming Thick PBT caps, Netdot Gen10 Magnetic cable
| PF65 3d printed 65% w/LCD and hot swap
More
Box Jades, Interchangeable trim, mini lcd, QMK, underglow, HK Gaming Thick PBT caps, O-rings, Netdot Gen10 magnetic cable, in progress link
| Magicforce 68
More
MF68 pcb, Outemu Blues, in progress
| YMDK75 Jail Housed Gateron Blues
More
J-spacers, YMDK Thick PBT, O-rings, SIP sockets
| KBT Race S L.E.
More
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| Das Pro
More
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| GH60
More
Cherry Blacks, custom 3d printed case
| Logitech Illumininated | IBM Model M (x2)
Definitive Omron Guide. | 3d printed Keyboard FAQ/Discussion

Offline gorillionaire

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Re: removing paint from top plate
« Reply #10 on: Sun, 01 May 2016, 07:54:55 »
Why order another, sand blasting will probably hide the scratch (that's why lots of cases are sandblasted, to hide milling and casting marks), and what it doesn't cover the powder should. Ask whoever is doing the coating, they should be able to tell you for sure.

Unless you meant anodizing, in which case, again, ask the people doing it, they can tell you pretty fast.

which do you think would look better power coated or anodized?

Offline Badwrench

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Re: removing paint from top plate
« Reply #11 on: Sun, 01 May 2016, 08:43:20 »
Why order another, sand blasting will probably hide the scratch (that's why lots of cases are sandblasted, to hide milling and casting marks), and what it doesn't cover the powder should. Ask whoever is doing the coating, they should be able to tell you for sure.

Unless you meant anodizing, in which case, again, ask the people doing it, they can tell you pretty fast.

which do you think would look better power coated or anodized?
Totally different finishes. 
If you are in the US, drop it in themail and I can refinish it with a nice brushed look and get a coat or 2 of clear on it to keep it looking good. 

I am not a fan of powdercoating aluminum. 

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

wut. i'd buy a ****ty IBM board for that green V2

Offline gorillionaire

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Re: removing paint from top plate
« Reply #12 on: Sun, 01 May 2016, 09:44:35 »
Why order another, sand blasting will probably hide the scratch (that's why lots of cases are sandblasted, to hide milling and casting marks), and what it doesn't cover the powder should. Ask whoever is doing the coating, they should be able to tell you for sure.

Unless you meant anodizing, in which case, again, ask the people doing it, they can tell you pretty fast.

which do you think would look better power coated or anodized?
Totally different finishes. 
If you are in the US, drop it in themail and I can refinish it with a nice brushed look and get a coat or 2 of clear on it to keep it looking good. 

I am not a fan of powdercoating aluminum. 

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

how much would that cost? and could it keep its near original color? im located in Missouri

Offline Badwrench

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Re: removing paint from top plate
« Reply #13 on: Sun, 01 May 2016, 09:54:33 »
Why order another, sand blasting will probably hide the scratch (that's why lots of cases are sandblasted, to hide milling and casting marks), and what it doesn't cover the powder should. Ask whoever is doing the coating, they should be able to tell you for sure.

Unless you meant anodizing, in which case, again, ask the people doing it, they can tell you pretty fast.

which do you think would look better power coated or anodized?
Totally different finishes. 
If you are in the US, drop it in themail and I can refinish it with a nice brushed look and get a coat or 2 of clear on it to keep it looking good. 

I am not a fan of powdercoating aluminum. 

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

how much would that cost? and could it keep its near original color? im located in Missouri

You would just pay for shipping to and from me.  I would take care of the rest  :thumb:

The color would be bare aluminum unless you wanted me to tint it a bit.  I could do the brushed finish and use a tinted clear.  The finish would be a bit more on the glossy side, since the tint is an automotive finish.  The clear can be anywhere from full flat to high gloss, I have them all. 
wut. i'd buy a ****ty IBM board for that green V2

Offline gorillionaire

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Re: removing paint from top plate
« Reply #14 on: Sun, 01 May 2016, 09:59:54 »
Why order another, sand blasting will probably hide the scratch (that's why lots of cases are sandblasted, to hide milling and casting marks), and what it doesn't cover the powder should. Ask whoever is doing the coating, they should be able to tell you for sure.

Unless you meant anodizing, in which case, again, ask the people doing it, they can tell you pretty fast.

which do you think would look better power coated or anodized?
Totally different finishes. 
If you are in the US, drop it in themail and I can refinish it with a nice brushed look and get a coat or 2 of clear on it to keep it looking good. 

I am not a fan of powdercoating aluminum. 

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

how much would that cost? and could it keep its near original color? im located in Missouri

You would just pay for shipping to and from me.  I would take care of the rest  :thumb:

The color would be bare aluminum unless you wanted me to tint it a bit.  I could do the brushed finish and use a tinted clear.  The finish would be a bit more on the glossy side, since the tint is an automotive finish.  The clear can be anywhere from full flat to high gloss, I have them all.

you got any pictures of stuff youve done?

Offline Badwrench

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Re: removing paint from top plate
« Reply #15 on: Sun, 01 May 2016, 12:40:30 »
Why order another, sand blasting will probably hide the scratch (that's why lots of cases are sandblasted, to hide milling and casting marks), and what it doesn't cover the powder should. Ask whoever is doing the coating, they should be able to tell you for sure.

Unless you meant anodizing, in which case, again, ask the people doing it, they can tell you pretty fast.

which do you think would look better power coated or anodized?
Totally different finishes. 
If you are in the US, drop it in themail and I can refinish it with a nice brushed look and get a coat or 2 of clear on it to keep it looking good. 

I am not a fan of powdercoating aluminum. 

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

how much would that cost? and could it keep its near original color? im located in Missouri

You would just pay for shipping to and from me.  I would take care of the rest  :thumb:

The color would be bare aluminum unless you wanted me to tint it a bit.  I could do the brushed finish and use a tinted clear.  The finish would be a bit more on the glossy side, since the tint is an automotive finish.  The clear can be anywhere from full flat to high gloss, I have them all.

you got any pictures of stuff youve done?

Nope, I have just been doing it for years.  Most of the time it is done on case mods or on my dirtbike and car. 
For your case, it looks like the color will be pretty close to what it is now, but a little brighter.  The current finish looks like a sandblasted one that had some graphics printed on it then a clear coat for a satin finish. 

This is more or less what I think it would look like (found an image with metal that is a similar color to yours)
wut. i'd buy a ****ty IBM board for that green V2