Ok, I'm surely going to get hammered for admitting this here, but I was sick and tired of neglecting my Omnikey, and I decided I was going to lubricate it and get it pleasant to type on, or put it away for good. My results after 3 days are outstanding, but there's no long term data to offer yet, so don't replicate this method unless you're willing to deal with a gummed up ALPS board down the road in the event that it doesn't work long term.
Here is my method:
1. Disassemble all switches, separate the plastic parts from the metal.
2. Set aside the metal parts for now, we'll deal with them later.
3. Take your key caps (if dirty) and plastic sliders and clean them thoroughly by whatever method you prefer. I like warm water with Dawn.
4. Set them aside to dry.
5. Take the click-leaves and clean them by whatever method you prefer, again I like warm water and Dawn. Wipe them dry and set aside.
6. Take all of your plastic sliders (and key caps or whatever other plastic you may want to "re-condition") and soak them in a container with 1 part water, 3 parts 303 Aerospace Protectant. One hour soak is probably enough, but I left mine overnight. I do not pretend to know the chemistry behind 303, but it really does seem to "re-condition" the plastic back to a less brittle state. It also has a UV protectant which will help prevent yellowing (very useful after retr0brite!).
7. Remove the plastic from the 303 bath, and WITHOUT RINSING, wipe all plastic dry, allow further air-drying if necessary.
8. Spray a generous amount of *WD-40* into a small disposable cup or bowl and grab a handful of Q-tips.
9. While the plastic sliders are drying, take a Q-tip, dip it into WD-40, and lightly brush each click leaf with it. The trick here is to be sparing, and only brush on enough to make the leaf appear "damp". If drops form, you're using WAY too much. DO NOT SPRAY DIRECTLY ONTO THE SLIDER! DO NOT APPLY EXCESS AMOUNTS OF WD-40!
10. Once all the click-leaves have been GENTLY lubricated, and your sliders and key caps are dry, it it time to reassemble!
I do NOT take any responsibility for any damage to your keyboard, switches, or yourself by using this method, I'm simply posting what worked for me. As I stated above, there is a distinct possibility that this method will fail after extended exposure to the WD-40 lubricant. This method may or may not benefit from the use of Teflon, Lithium, 3-in-1, CRC Silicone, butter, or vaseline in the place of the WD-40, but this is the method I chose to test first.
*IF* I experience any problems down the road I will update this thread, and try again with a different lubricant.
Do not attempt this if you are not willing to disassemble and reassemble ALPS switches, and thoroughly clean them if it becomes apparent that WD-40 is detrimental or inferior for long term use.
303 Aerospace is 100% safe to use on the plastic sliders, key caps, case, or any other plastic or rubber you want to treat. It leaves a *very* thin film (which contains the "sun block" that is quite slick, and would most likely work by itself without the use of additional lubrication, if anyone wants to try that method.
