First custom build help

[illumiM]

Ok so I have decided that I want to build a custom keeb and have some preferences that look like they will be hard to meet. Any help is welcomed. Also budget is around $300 maybe $400

Case-So I want 65% for size and am probably gonna go with the tofu65 since I would prefer the aluminum. Any aluminum case works tbh, I just want a heavy/sturdy feeling case.

PCB-Next for the pcb, I know this is a long shot, I’m hoping that a hot-swappable, wired and wireless, rgb board exists out there. It’s the hot-swap and Bluetooth I want the most but a good pcb that check 2 out of those 3 will be considered. ANSI layout btw.

Switches-I type a lot and won’t be gaming. I’m not too sure what I wanna go for but cherry mx browns sound like what I want. I am open to other switches like zelios or other enthusiast switches.

Keycaps-I’ll probably just order a set in a GB. Recommendations are encouraged. I like a darker minimalist aesthetic if that helps.

Stabs-Just tell me what is best and I’ll get them. Have zero knowledge on stabs as of now.

Any other recs or advice would be super helpful as this is gonna be my first custom. I do plan to mod and wanna go all in on mechs. Also timeframes doesn’t matter I’m willing to wait.

Thanks!

[andred]

You should invest in a switch tester. I used to think browns were perfect for me, but getting a switch tester changed everything. Consequently, I know I will use a combination of Zealios and Tealios switches in my next board.

https://drop.com/buy/super-switch-tester-63-switches

https://kbdfans.com/collections/switches-tester/products/kbdfans-72-switches-tester-all-in-one

[Leslieann]

While $300-$400 sounds like plenty caps and switches alone can easily push you over $100 (or even well over $200 if you go wild), then there's lube, stabs and cable if you want any of that. Up the switches to something more high end or boutique like Zeal, some krytox lube and some higher end stabs and suddenly you've spent over $200 and you haven't even bought a board yet so you will need to be a bit careful how you spend.

Take a look at the Novelkeys NK65.
Very heavy for a 65% and I'd argue a better design than the Tofu (I dislike tray mount), hot swap, RGB, fully programmable with QMK/VIA, you can get replacement boards if you damage it and it's under $200. It comes with decent, pre-lubed stabs, they had plenty of thick lube on the bars, might stand to add thinner on plastic to plastic spots but mine were perfectly serviceable out of the box (I did do a bandaid mod).

This leaves only switches and caps, I'd also recommend a magnetic cable to protect the port, not that it's an easy port to damage but it's just an added bit of safety for the port. As for lube, since they did the thick lube you don't need that (I use Superlube Dielectric grease), but you still may want something for your switches, instead of Krytox, try Finish Line Flouro Extreme(with ptfe), it's a lot cheaper, allowing you to spend the money on switches and caps, I use the HK Gaming caps on Amazon, you can get a 144(?) cap set of thick PBT for about $40. They aren't shine through but are thick enough to not allow light bleed so you end up with a very nice glow around the keys.


One warning about a switch tester, don't try a switch you aren't prepared or won't be able to buy, if you can't afford Zeal or get Bobas or something, don't test them. If you find a switch you want, don't settle for your second choice or you will just be buying them later. Test what you can and are willing to buy and continue to save if you need to to get it right the first time.

[illumiM]

While $300-$400 sounds like plenty caps and switches alone can easily push you over $100 (or even well over $200 if you go wild), then there's lube, stabs and cable if you want any of that. Up the switches to something more high end or boutique like Zeal, some krytox lube and some higher end stabs and suddenly you've spent over $200 and you haven't even bought a board yet so you will need to be a bit careful how you spend.

Take a look at the Novelkeys NK65.
Very heavy for a 65% and I'd argue a better design than the Tofu (I dislike tray mount), hot swap, RGB, fully programmable with QMK/VIA, you can get replacement boards if you damage it and it's under $200. It comes with decent, pre-lubed stabs, they had plenty of thick lube on the bars, might stand to add thinner on plastic to plastic spots but mine were perfectly serviceable out of the box (I did do a bandaid mod).

This leaves only switches and caps, I'd also recommend a magnetic cable to protect the port, not that it's an easy port to damage but it's just an added bit of safety for the port. As for lube, since they did the thick lube you don't need that (I use Superlube Dielectric grease), but you still may want something for your switches, instead of Krytox, try Finish Line Flouro Extreme(with ptfe), it's a lot cheaper, allowing you to spend the money on switches and caps, I use the HK Gaming caps on Amazon, you can get a 144(?) cap set of thick PBT for about $40. They aren't shine through but are thick enough to not allow light bleed so you end up with a very nice glow around the keys.


One warning about a switch tester, don't try a switch you aren't prepared or won't be able to buy, if you can't afford Zeal or get Bobas or something, don't test them. If you find a switch you want, don't settle for your second choice or you will just be buying them later. Test what you can and are willing to buy and continue to save if you need to to get it right the first time.

Wow ok that was a lot of really good info. Thanks a lot for all the help! I’ll definitely make sure to be careful about my switch of choice. I’m not really familiar with polycarbonate but would you say it’s close to or heavier than aluminum? If not what make the board heavy?

[illumiM]

You should invest in a switch tester. I used to think browns were perfect for me, but getting a switch tester changed everything. Consequently, I know I will use a combination of Zealios and Tealios switches in my next board.

https://drop.com/buy/super-switch-tester-63-switches

https://kbdfans.com/collections/switches-tester/products/kbdfans-72-switches-tester-all-in-one

Ordered! Thank you!

[Leslieann]

Wow ok that was a lot of really good info. Thanks a lot for all the help! I’ll definitely make sure to be careful about my switch of choice. I’m not really familiar with polycarbonate but would you say it’s close to or heavier than aluminum? If not what make the board heavy?

You're welcome.

Polycarbonate is same stuff Samsung used on older Galaxy phone bodies, in fact a lot of phones and tablets still use it when they need plastic. It's really strong (used to make bulletproof glass), but like acrylic it can be prone to cracking when screwed into. Novelkeys has had some issues with this, it doesn't ruin the board or anything and it will feel nicer than ABS, but it's not going to be anywhere close to the weight of an aluminum keyboard (not even half), much less one with the bulk of an Nk65 (it's a hefty boy).

Weight is not the end-all be-all on a keyboard. Aluminum is different than plastic, not necessarily better, some people like the heft because it stays planted but I've seen lighter boards stay planted as well. There's pros and cons to it, aluminum can shock you (especially if not grounded right), damage things that fall on it or it falls on. It's also cold to the touch and in many instances worse harmonics than a plastic keyboard, though easier to tune out. I prefer aluminum just because I like the aesthetic, durability and can tune the noise to something more pleasant, but I also have plastic boards I like.

For what you are spending, get what you want.
If you do need to cut costs, cut costs on the caps, you can get decent caps cheap, aim for dye-sub thick pbt (at least 1.4mm thick). In small sets you can get them for about $20. It's the cheapest easiest thing to upgrade later.

[illumiM]

Wow ok that was a lot of really good info. Thanks a lot for all the help! I’ll definitely make sure to be careful about my switch of choice. I’m not really familiar with polycarbonate but would you say it’s close to or heavier than aluminum? If not what make the board heavy?

You're welcome.

Polycarbonate is same stuff Samsung used on older Galaxy phone bodies, in fact a lot of phones and tablets still use it when they need plastic. It's really strong (used to make bulletproof glass), but like acrylic it can be prone to cracking when screwed into. Novelkeys has had some issues with this, it doesn't ruin the board or anything and it will feel nicer than ABS, but it's not going to be anywhere close to the weight of an aluminum keyboard (not even half), much less one with the bulk of an Nk65 (it's a hefty boy).

Weight is not the end-all be-all on a keyboard. Aluminum is different than plastic, not necessarily better, some people like the heft because it stays planted but I've seen lighter boards stay planted as well. There's pros and cons to it, aluminum can shock you (especially if not grounded right), damage things that fall on it or it falls on. It's also cold to the touch and in many instances worse harmonics than a plastic keyboard, though easier to tune out. I prefer aluminum just because I like the aesthetic, durability and can tune the noise to something more pleasant, but I also have plastic boards I like.

For what you are spending, get what you want.
If you do need to cut costs, cut costs on the caps, you can get decent caps cheap, aim for dye-sub thick pbt (at least 1.4mm thick). In small sets you can get them for about $20. It's the cheapest easiest thing to upgrade later.

Ok that’s probably what I’m gonna do then. When I first read your response I looked up the NK65 and only saw the polycarbonate version so that’s why I asked but I just realized there is also a aluminum version. Once it’s back in stock I’ll probably go with that one. Thanks for all the help!