Things to know about the Model M?

[McStuff]

I'm currently waiting on a model m that I snagged off ebay, and I have a few questions. First is, I keep hearing about rivets, but I dont know what that refers to. What are they and what do they do? Second, whats the best way to clean it? Lastly, is there anything else I should know about it?

[ThirdLap]

I keep hearing about rivets, but I dont know what that refers to. What are they and what do they do?

The Model M' uses plastic rivets to hold the top part of the internal keyboard assembly to a metal plate.  Over time these plastic rivets can weaken and fail, with the heads of the rivets falling off.  The end result is at best a less solid-feeling board, and at worst the board will become problematic or stop functioning all together.

Second, whats the best way to clean it?

Find a thin-walled 5.5mm (7/32") driver.  You can order one of these on the internet, or simply go to Osh or Sears and purchase a thin-walled 7/32" socket.  They can be difficult to find, but they're out there.

Remove the four screws on the back of the board and separate the two plastic halves.  Soak the top half in a solution of hot water and your cleaner of choice. I use OxiClean and dish detergent. You could also just throw it (the top plastic piece) in the dishwasher.

I prefer not to soak the rear plastic piece, as doing so could destroy the 'birth certificate' label on the back.  Instead, clean it by hand with some soapy water, avoiding disturbing the label.

Meanwhile, remove all of the keycaps by pulling firmly on each key. Soak them in a similar solution. If you have an M with the single-piece keys, the keys can still be removed (takes a bit more effort), but you will see a spring inside of a cylinder after removing them. Don't worry, the keys will simply snap back in place.

Use compressed air and Q-tips to clean the remaining keyboard assembly.

After soaking the plastic parts for a bit, use a scouring pad to remove any marks/glue/old tape/etc.  Model Ms clean up fairly easily, and I've yet to find one that doesn't look close to new after a bit of effort.

Depending on how dirty they were, the keys might require no more effort than simply soaking them and allowing them to dry.  If they are still dirty after soaking, use an old toothbrush to remove any remaining grime.

Let everything dry, then reassemble.

Lastly, is there anything else I should know about it?

Some PS/2 to USB adapters are screwy, and will stop working.  I had to return one and purchase another, which has worked flawlessley. Try to find one of the adapters listed on this page.

They're as loud as their reputation.  Expect others in your household to comment on this.

They are as awesome as you've heard.  Enjoy it.

Hope this helps.

[hyperlinked]

Thanks Thirdlap! I was going to ask this same question soon myself. I'm about to pick up a stash of 4 Model M's and I'm expecting to need to do a little cleaning and refurbishing before they're ready for the world.

[McStuff]

The Model M' uses plastic rivets to hold the top part of the internal keyboard assembly to a metal plate.  Over time these plastic rivets can weaken and fail, with the heads of the rivets falling off.  The end result is at best a less solid-feeling board, and at worst the board will become problematic or stop functioning all together.



Find a thin-walled 5.5mm (7/32") driver.  You can order one of these on the internet, or simply go to Osh or Sears and purchase a thin-walled 7/32" socket.  They can be difficult to find, but they're out there.

Remove the four screws on the back of the board and separate the two plastic halves.  Soak the top half in a solution of hot water and your cleaner of choice. I use OxiClean and dish detergent. You could also just throw it in the dishwasher.

I prefer not to soak the rear plastic piece, as doing so could destroy the 'birth certificate' label on the back.  Instead, clean it by hand with some soapy water, avoiding disturbing the label.

Meanwhile, remove all of the keycaps by pulling firmly on each key. Soak them in a similar solution. If you have an M with the single-piece keys, the keycaps can still be removed (takes a bit more effort), but you will see a spring inside of a cylinder after removing them. Don't worry, the keys will simply snap back in place.

Use compressed air and Q-tips to clean the remaining keyboard assembly.

After soaking the plastic parts for a bit, use a scouring pad to remove any marks/glue/old tape/etc.  Model Ms clean up fairly easily, and I've yet to find one that doesn't look close to new after a bit of effort.

Depending on how dirty they were, the keys might require no more effort than simply soaking them and allowing them to dry.  If they are still dirty after soaking, use an old toothbrush to remove any remaining grime.

Let everything dry, then reassemble.



Some PS/2 to USB converters are screwy, and will stop working.  I had to return one and purchase another, which has worked flawlessley. Try to find one of the ones listed on this website.  I'll see if I can find the url.

They're as loud as their reputation.  Expect others in your household to comment on this.

They are as awesome as you've heard.  Enjoy it.

Hope this helps.

Wow, this was a very thorough and good reply. Thanks for all the info. Also, I plan to use it with a PS2 port anyway, so I wont have any problems with converters.

[ThirdLap]

Wow, this was a very thorough and good reply. Thanks for all the info. Also, I plan to use it with a PS2 port anyway, so I wont have any problems with converters.

No prob. FWIW, the PS/2 port on my motherboard (Gigabyte MA790XT-UD4P) does not recognize my M, or any of my old PS/2 keyboards for that matter.  Apparently some modern motherboards have this issue.

[ThirdLap]

Thanks Thirdlap! I was going to ask this same question soon myself. I'm about to pick up a stash of 4 Model M's and I'm expecting to need to do a little cleaning and refurbishing before they're ready for the world.

Glad I could help.  I've found refurbishing old Ms to be really enjoyable, as the process is incredibly straight-forward and they always seem to turn out looking great.

[ThirdLap]

If needed, this adapter is pretty cheap and apparently works with Model Ms.

[McStuff]

No prob. FWIW, the PS/2 port on my motherboard (Gigabyte MA790XT-UD4P) does not recognize my M, or any of my old PS/2 keyboards for that matter.  Apparently some modern motherboards have this issue.

Hmm, interesting. I snagged a 95, so I'd think it would work. We'll see.

[ch_123]

Power draw for Model Ms remained constant AFAIK, even with the newer electronics used in 42H' style keyboards and Unicomps.

[McStuff]

Couldn't you replace the plastic rivets with metal rivets if you wanted a more solid connection?

[wellington1869]

Couldn't you replace the plastic rivets with metal rivets if you wanted a more solid connection?

yes its been done. in the mods section i think.

[McStuff]

Here.

Now the IronMan of keyboards.  Indestructable except by spilled beers.

Show Image

Interesting. What's the reason on using screw/nuts instead of rivets? Easy disassembly?

[McStuff]

It's in the mod description but basically strength and ability to easily do different other mods like changing which keys are active (International Mini mod), spring swaps, tightening/loosening to taste.

Plus, it looks awesome.  Please post further questions in the mod thread.

Ah, makes sense. Also, I don't really have any other questions. I'll probably do the mod when I'm bored one day.

[Findecanor]

Nuts and bolts are easier to fix if you make a mistake. To remove a rivet, you need to drill it, and the heat from the friction could easily melt the plastic beyond repair.

[ThirdLap]

Nice cleaning guide ThirdLap.   I added link to your post in the "All About Keys" wiki.

Cool, glad I could help.

[McStuff]

My glorious new keyboard just arrived. I'm typing on it right now! The feel is definitely unique, and it's definitely a bit loud. However, it could definitely use a cleaning. I got lucky because I checked, and it has two piece keycaps It also worked straight out of the box with PS2. I've also tested all keys in Aquakeytest and there are no problems.

[McStuff]

Welcome to the Mechanical Keyboard Klub!

Now I gotta run to Sears and get a driver to clean this thing. It's been used, that's for sure.

[EverythingIBM]

Now I gotta run to Sears and get a driver to clean this thing. It's been used, that's for sure.

Here's a tip: don't flip the keyboard upside down and shake it, 'cause, dirt and stuff can go to the top of the keycaps, and fall down into the spring assembly. It actually can happen even with rubber domes.

[aegrotatio]

Here's a tip: don't flip the keyboard upside down and shake it, 'cause, dirt and stuff can go to the top of the keycaps, and fall down into the spring assembly. It actually can happen even with rubber domes.

Oh, wow, I never thought of that, you're right!!  I'm going to try to remember this tip.

Thanks!!

[ch_123]

For one, I can't really imagine dust getting into the barrels that easily. Even if they did, the membrane is covered by a rubber sheet, so it's far better sealed than a rubber dome keyboard.

[EverythingIBM]

I shake upside down all the time my kids filthy Unicomp, but end with a few sideways shakes.  No problems yet.

I think I'd do that with a unicomp one as well if I was lazy. But not a good IBM one.

For one, I can't really imagine dust getting into the barrels that easily. Even if they did, the membrane is covered by a rubber sheet, so it's far better sealed than a rubber dome keyboard.

It's not DUST that is an issue, it's crumbs and crud, it gets into the springs. You still don't really want anything in there... it's best to unscrew the board and clean it out properly.

My rubber dome keyboard that I used to shake out all the time, had LOADS of grime in the membrane after doing the up-side-down shake. Stuff even got inside the LED assembly... I had to spray the whole thing down; but I wouldn't do that with my model M.

[ch_123]

What if it was an IBM branded Unicomp?

[aegrotatio]

Jesus, I really think I'm gonna hafta get a bonafide key puller so I can inspect every one of my Model M springs because I clean them by first turning upside down and tapping on the table, and then using a can of spray air.  The thousand or so bucking spring assemblies in my basement need my attention soon, I think.

[McStuff]

Just waiting on the bottom part of the keycaps to dry. Everything else is clean. Next time I do this, I'm gonna get a keycap puller because the bottom parts are a bit difficult to get off.

[McStuff]

Everything is cleaned up, and this keyboard looks basically brand new. In agreement from what I've heard, this thing is hefty and built like a tank. It is fairly loud, but not too annoying for me. I do like the feel, but the actuation force is a little high for my taste. Who knows? Maybe I'll grow to like it. I might also pick up something with cherry blues or similar because I think that'd be close, but with less force required. I've also swapped the caps to colemak without any issues of uneven tops.

[phototristan]

Everything is cleaned up, and this keyboard looks basically brand new. In agreement from what I've heard, this thing is hefty and built like a tank. It is fairly loud, but not too annoying for me. I do like the feel, but the actuation force is a little high for my taste. Who knows? Maybe I'll grow to like it. I might also pick up something with cherry blues or similar because I think that'd be close, but with less force required. I've also swapped the caps to colemak without any issues of uneven tops.

You get use to it. After using a Model M, I can hardly use anything else b/c they feel too light. I tried a Cherry Blue and Cherry Brown, each didn't feel very good compared to the Model M.

I can type all day on a Model M and while I sometimes feel like my fingers are getting a workout, I have no fatigue or pain or anything. Heck, maybe the Model M is even good for you.

[ManjyomeThunder]

You get use to it. After using a Model M, I can hardly use anything else b/c they feel too light. I tried a Cherry Blue and Cherry Brown, each didn't feel very good compared to the Model M.

I can type all day on a Model M and while I sometimes feel like my fingers are getting a workout, I have no fatigue or pain or anything. Heck, maybe the Model M is even good for you.

So I'm guessing you're done with the Realforce then?

-edit-

Nevermind, read your signature. Heh.

[phototristan]

So I'm guessing you're done with the Realforce then?

-edit-

Nevermind, read your signature. Heh.

If I can find tenkeyless Realforce in white, I may buy one.

[ManjyomeThunder]

If I can find tenkeyless Realforce in white, I may buy one.

I just saw the white/grey Realforce 86U (not sure what key is apparently missing) on elitekeyboard's front page, but it's apparently sold out. Darn.

-edit-

It's the right Windows key, as if anyone used it to begin with.

[WhiteRice]

Do NOT feed the model M after midnight

[phototristan]

It's funny, I used to hate white/beige keyboards but now they are my favorite. Black keys start looking shiny too fast and black also shows dust quicker. There's nothing I hate more than to approach a black keyboard and see all they keys shiny.

[MissileMike]

The Unicomp grey keys are good for this.  Not as nice looking as black on black, but a good compromise between looks and feasibility.

[phototristan]

The Unicomp grey keys are good for this.  Not as nice looking as black on black, but a good compromise between looks and feasibility.

True. I liked them quite a bit when I had a Black Customizer 104. Did you notice they have a bit of glitter in them? I think they call the color 'metallic'.

[ManjyomeThunder]

True. I liked them quite a bit when I had a Black Customizer 104. Did you notice they have a bit of glitter in them? I think they call the color 'metallic'.

I notice the glitter on my customizer, was wondering if I was the only one. Heh.

[MissileMike]

I don't notice it one bit... weird

[ch_123]

You have to look at them up close with good lighting. I think it might be a side effect of their dying process - I think they took the beige keys and dyed them that grey colour. In the nibbed keys on my Unicomp (F, J, Numpad 5) the keys had a sort of brownish tinge to them.

I think they would look smarter if they used a darker gray colour, though I suppose that the brighter gray colour gives better contrast.

[itlnstln]

It would be pretty sweet if they looked like the Topre keys.  The black keys they have are too dark, IIRC.  Skcheng had Unicomp put the black legends on the black keys, but I remember him saying they were too hard to see.  I wonder where that guy is anyway.