Looking for a wireless mechanical keyboard with a flat profile

[jcoffin1981]

This is a mechanical keyboard for work and I only have a few criteria.

1.  Needs to be flat, or near flat.  It seems to be the norm to have boards that are 6-10 degrees and I find it so uncomfortable to type on.  I have lousy wrists and this just aggravates my carpal tunnel. I do find
Leopolds ok to type on, but they are only about 2 degrees or so.  These are actually some of my favorite; incredibly well made.  They however only manufacture wired boards.

2.  Needs to be 2.4GHz wireless.  It can't be Bluetooth as the computers at work do not have BT and I cannot install it.

3.  Needs to include a number pad.  I rarely use it and I prefer the ergonomics of a board without this, but other people will use it and they will ***** if it does not have a number pad.

4.  Needs to have   I would love it to have   I would like it to have PBT keycaps.  Or at least a keycap layout that is easy to replace with PBT keycaps.  However because of the difficulty I am having in finding a
     board to meet my criteria I am lax on this.

So that is all.  Does not seem like much, but I cannot find ANY that meet this.  I suppose I can get a separate number pad and this will allow me to use 60% boards.  There are a few boards that come close.  One is the Logitech MX Mechanical.
I cannot find much about this.  It is near flat, but it has ABS keycaps.  Another is the AKKO 3098B.  Their keycaps are top notch and I'm sure the board build quality is also good stuff too.  The board however has a pretty steep incline, and putting
stick on legs on the front will not be enough to rectify this.  Wireless keyboards have to make room for the battery, so finding a perfectly flat one will be tough. 

As a last ditch I may be able to be rid of the wireless requirement, but this will mean frequently re-running the cables at the beginning/end of day, or when I switch stations (also, management really wants wireless). This would be the Drop SHIFT   I have a desk I sit at 95% of the time with a wired Leopold board, but that desk will be eliminated and I am going to have to move around frequently.  ALL the boards in the office are CHEAP and OLD Logitech or Microsoft rubber domes.  They are stiff and if you do not hit the keys dead center they will not press.  I spend about 2-3 hours typing per day.  To everyone else it just seems normal to use a board like these.  So PLEASE, I have spend endless hours researching.  Any ideas would be highly appreciated. 

[suicidal_orange]

You could always steal the controller out of a logitech, desolder the PCB from the board of your choice (or buy a DIY case/plate) and wire up the switches to match the Logitech matrix?  Cut holes and run wires out the back for the controller and battery if necessary - if it doesn't look good it's less likely to disappear if you leave it out at work when you're not in.

[Leslieann]

Wanting wireless means it will be THICK and this is almost always worse for your wrists than tilt, just how it is.
If you're concerned about comfort, drop the wireless.

Also instead of wireless, how about magnetic USB cables at each station?
Not only is this cheaper and allows a wider keyboard choice, it's a drop in solution without the hassle of having to reconnect wirelessly each time (tie it off in a convenient place, no reaching behind a tower), fear of dead batteries, or batteries failing and having to replace the keyboard in a year or two (or any time someone lets it go completely flat and kills the battery dead).

[jcoffin1981]

I don't rest my wrists on the desk. I also use a keyboard tray so the board is at the proper height (which everyone else abhors). The board is several inches below the desktop and I can adjust my chair height as needed.  If the wireless keyboard is an inch thicker it really makes no difference as far as ergonomics.   Many of the stations are too far from the towers to use corded keyboards, unless I used a 10ft cable.  I dislike wireless and prefer wires, but depending on where I am sitting I may not be able to even run the cables.

[jcoffin1981]

You could always steal the controller out of a logitech, desolder the PCB from the board of your choice (or buy a DIY case/plate) and wire up the switches to match the Logitech matrix?  Cut holes and run wires out the back for the controller and battery if necessary - if it doesn't look good it's less likely to disappear if you leave it out at work when you're not in.

I have thought about this; this is really possible?  This may be a little above my skill level.  Unless you are trolling me and having a laugh? I've read it 5 times and cannot tell. 

Edit:  Yes, you are screwing with me sir

[MIGHTY CHICKEN]

I have thought about this; this is really possible?  This may be a little above my skill level.  Unless you are trolling me and having a laugh? I've read it 5 times and cannot tell. 

Edit:  Yes, you are screwing with me sir

It's not exactly like it hasn't been done before, unigo660 and unigo66 harvested chips from logitech stuff, although most of the boards just died, the 660 might have faired better, but the 66 was not ok

[suicidal_orange]

You could always steal the controller out of a logitech, desolder the PCB from the board of your choice (or buy a DIY case/plate) and wire up the switches to match the Logitech matrix?  Cut holes and run wires out the back for the controller and battery if necessary - if it doesn't look good it's less likely to disappear if you leave it out at work when you're not in.

I have thought about this; this is really possible?  This may be a little above my skill level.  Unless you are trolling me and having a laugh? I've read it 5 times and cannot tell. 

Edit:  Yes, you are screwing with me sir

Not screwing with you - the controller chip just knows when it's live pin is connected to a non-live pin, it doesn't know if the signal travelled through the membrane under a sheet of rubber domes or through a wire and mechanical switch.

It's lacking in detail so not a how-to but here's an example