Apple Extended / II

[Capitalistix]

Hey GHers!

So, a few months back I purchased an Apple Extended Keyboard II. It's in atrocious condition and after clicking the keys a few times, they felt mushy to me. They didnt seem to have any feedback and felt a lot like a membrane board. I was just coming off of the good stuff though (Model M) so I believe that thoroughly spoiled my taste for anything but BS at the time. After buying and selling a few more boards and trying out cherry greens which I took an affection to, in addition to complicated white alps of the Focus 2001, I decided to do the unthinkable, I went back and plugged in my beater apple board. This time though, I forced myself to use it all day, I'm even typing on it right now, and you know what, I kinda like it. It's just different enough to not be a membrane, but for supposedly having white alps, they feel very different than the complicated Focus whites, I should point out, that both are genuine alps brand alps, not clones. My question is, does the complication factor make alps that much different? Also, I feel the AEK/IIs dont get much love on this board so I was wanting to hear everyone's thoughts on them, and wanted to know if they are anyone's board of choice? I've also heard that time takes a heavy toll on alps' so I'm wondering if I got a mint NIB AEKII if I would feel the difference?

[Hak Foo]

AEKIIs use "damped" ALPS switches with little pads designed to make them a bit quieter and perhaps softer landing.  That might explain some of the difference.

[simingma]

Those are Cream ALPS not White.

I own two AEK M0115s, one AEK II 3501 (made in USA) and two M0116s.

You've probably heard a lot of good things about AEK II, but that's referring to the Orange ALPS made with the first batch of AEK IIs with model number M0312 rather than Cream (damped) ALPS M0315 (check your label). Apple never made any keyboards with White ALPS (please point out if I am wrong). Matias Tactile Pro has white ALPS and they claimed its from AEK, but in fact AEK only had Orange/Pink switches.

I must say I tried myself it was very difficult to find a M0312, and you'd better off looking for M0115 the original AEK, or if you may like the layout the Apple Keyboard M0116. Both guarantees you Orange/Pink ALPS which feel a lot crispier (also louder).

There is an article in Japanese that shows how to identify different types of switches carried by AEK IIs.
http://kbd.rzw.jp/column/apple_extended_keyboard_ii_m3501/

There are M3501s that carry Orange ALPS, but they are just very very rare.

[simingma]

Oh and they can also be Mitsumi switches if you are lucky enough to get a Made In Japan M3501.

[Capitalistix]

Those are Cream ALPS not White.

I own two AEK M0115s, one AEK II 3501 (made in USA) and two M0116s.

You've probably heard a lot of good things about AEK II, but that's referring to the Orange ALPS made with the first batch of AEK IIs with model number M0312 rather than Cream (damped) ALPS M0315 (check your label). Apple never made any keyboards with White ALPS (please point out if I am wrong). Matias Tactile Pro has white ALPS and they claimed its from AEK, but in fact AEK only had Orange/Pink switches.

I must say I tried myself it was very difficult to find a M0312, and you'd better off looking for M0115 the original AEK, or if you may like the layout the Apple Keyboard M0116. Both guarantees you Orange/Pink ALPS which feel a lot crispier (also louder).

There is an article in Japanese that shows how to identify different types of switches carried by AEK IIs.
http://kbd.rzw.jp/column/apple_extended_keyboard_ii_m3501/

There are M3501s that carry Orange ALPS, but they are just very very rare.

Thats very interesting! A lot of, if not most, on that web page, seem to be M3501s though, so there seems to be a huge randomness to what you're getting with a 3501 unless you look at all those details I presume. Near the end it shows one assembled in Ireland, does anyone know oabout this model? it didnt seem to show a pic of what kind of switches were in these models

[Tarzan]

There's a M3501 for sale on eBay, model number ends in M0312.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-APPLE-MACINTOSH-ADB-EXTENDED-KEYBOARD-II-M3501-/300885060367?pt=US_Vintage_Computing_Parts_Accessories&hash=item460e25ab0f

No connection to seller, just looking for interesting boards.  Too many other pending sales to take a flyer on this one... 

[jksteger]

I purchased a AEKII off ebay for $5.00 + shipping.  made in USA and 3501 but the bar code states M3012 for the last digits.  Not sure what the switches are but the seller said it came in original box and looked "unused".  So I just had to buy a ADB to USB converter for another $25.00 shipped!

I sure hope I'm not let down! 

J.

[Tarzan]

I purchased a AEKII off ebay for $5.00 + shipping.  made in USA and 3501 but the bar code states M3012 for the last digits.  Not sure what the switches are but the seller said it came in original box and looked "unused".  So I just had to buy a ADB to USB converter for another $25.00 shipped!

I sure hope I'm not let down! 

J.

Be sure to post details of your acquisition when you get it in hand!

And good luck with the purchase!   

[Jamesbeat]

You know, you can modify those Alps switches on you AEK II to make them clicky and remove the dampers.
It's a lot of fiddly work, but this is how you do it:
Open the switch.
Remove the two little rubber dampers (shaped like dumbells).
Squash the V shaped spring flat.
Reassemble.

I did it to mine, and now the keys feel and sound identical to those on my Focus FK-2001.

[gh0stpixel]

I also modded my AEKII by removing my dampers. Makes the most wonderful sound now, and i even prefer it to the cherry blue sound for example! I did also mod all teh springs by cutting them short by 10-15% Was hell of a annoying to do, but if you like light springs, its really nice aswell.

[longface]

You know, you can modify those Alps switches on you AEK II to make them clicky and remove the dampers.
It's a lot of fiddly work, but this is how you do it:
Open the switch.
Remove the two little rubber dampers (shaped like dumbells).
Squash the V shaped spring flat.
Reassemble.

I did it to mine, and now the keys feel and sound identical to those on my Focus FK-2001.

How do you open the ALPS switch?

[Findecanor]

Those are Cream ALPS not White.

There are "Cream Alps" switches that have pure white sliders with rubber dampeners on them. The switches are identical to other Cream Alps except for the colour of the slider.
They have been found in both M3501s and M0312s.

Capitalistix: Could you tell me the model number and which country it was made in?

made in USA and 3501 but the bar code states M3012 for the last digits.

That seems to be quite common from what I have seen. All keyboards I have seen with serial number ending in 3501 have been made in Ireland.

I also modded my AEKII by removing my dampers.

I did the opposite: combined dampened sliders with switch tops and click leaves from White Alps and switch bottoms from Black Alps in my Dell AT101W.

[Jamesbeat]

Yeah I hear you on the annoying thing, it's not much fun dismantling and reassembling 100+ switches!
Must have been fun cutting all of those springs
Did you squash your V shaped springs to make the switches clicky?
They make a great click-clack sound.

[Jamesbeat]

You know, you can modify those Alps switches on you AEK II to make them clicky and remove the dampers.
It's a lot of fiddly work, but this is how you do it:
Open the switch.
Remove the two little rubber dampers (shaped like dumbells).
Squash the V shaped spring flat.
Reassemble.

I did it to mine, and now the keys feel and sound identical to those on my Focus FK-2001.

How do you open the ALPS switch?

If I recall correctly, I used a thin-bladed pocket knife to slip under and release the tabs from each side.
Now, bear in mind that when I modded my AEK II, I completely removed the pcb and soldered a new matrix by hand.
This meant that when I was modifying the switches they were loose, not mounted in the frame and pcb.
It's been a while since I modded mine, and I'm afraid I can't remember if it's possible to get at them without desoldering them.

If it is necessary to desolder them before you can disassemble them, it's really not that bad.
If you have a solder pump and half an hour you can get them all out, and I can't imagine it would take much longer to solder them all back in again.

Honestly, for the improvement in feel and sound, I think it would be worth the time and effort.

[Findecanor]

You could use tweezers. Insert them in-between the release tabs on both sides, hold firm and lift the top off.
Not all types of tweezers work so well, you might mar the plastic a bit but that will not affect the function of the switch.
When I did it, I learned from a video on Youtube ...

[Jamesbeat]

Can you remember if you can dismantle the switches in situ, even though they are mounted in the metal plate?
I know it would be possible if they were just pcb mounted, but I can't remember if the plate gets in the way or not.
As I said, this was a non-issue for me because for my project, I simply desoldered all the switches and ditched the pcb.

[gh0stpixel]

You dont have to solder to mod them. Use some kind of tweezers or something. Was some years ago i did it, so cant remember how i did, but i didnt solder anything. Think i followed a guide i found here on geekhack.

[hasu]

Two precision screw drivers works for me.

If you don't want scratch on enclosure you can use strips of void credit card instead.

Most of old Alps switches don't retain its good feel and need to be lub'ed completely with tearing down. This skill is a must-have for its owner.
BTW, to reassemble Alps I use my upside-down maneuver

[gh0stpixel]

^ That was the method i was using

[Jamesbeat]

Yup, upside down reassembly ftw.