Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[Dark_wizzie]

New question, this one a little more time sensitive:
Anybody know of a PBT keycap that allows for backlighting to shine through with the led BELOWWWWW the switch?
The Vortex PBT+Pom keycaps do not work at all with my YOTH which has the led below the switch. I'm sitting here paying for a Kmac, trying to get a Gon PCB change to get leds on all keys, and now I realize the led orientation is below the switch and there's no getting around that.

Second question is related:
I've never used a non-backlit keycap on a keyboard with backlighting, ever. How visible is the lettering when gaming at night with my monitor on but the lights off?

Anybody know somewhere where I can try out a Topre keyboard? My location is San Jose, CA. LA is too far, I can buy the keyboard with the gas money. SF is possible but it's really reaching. Anybody know of a local Frys that has one out to try maybe? 

My US geography is a bit vague.  Are you anywhere near EK?

http://www.elitekeyboards.com/support.php?lang=en#10

Unfortunately that location is practically LA, maybe a bit farther. I've contacted a random guy selling a Novatouch, asking him if I can type on it for a little bit to try it.

[CPTBadAss]

1) Anybody know of a PBT keycap that allows for backlighting to shine through with the led BELOWWWWW the switch?

More

The Vortex PBT+Pom keycaps do not work at all with my YOTH which has the led below the switch. I'm sitting here paying for a Kmac, trying to get a Gon PCB change to get leds on all keys, and now I realize the led orientation is below the switch and there's no getting around that.

2) I've never used a non-backlit keycap on a keyboard with backlighting, ever. How visible is the lettering when gaming at night with my monitor on but the lights off?

3) Anybody know somewhere where I can try out a Topre keyboard?

More

My location is San Jose, CA. LA is too far, I can buy the keyboard with the gas money. SF is possible but it's really reaching. Anybody know of a local Frys that has one out to try maybe? 

My US geography is a bit vague.  Are you anywhere near EK?

http://www.elitekeyboards.com/support.php?lang=en#10

Unfortunately that location is practically LA, maybe a bit farther. I've contacted a random guy selling a Novatouch, asking him if I can type on it for a little bit to try it.

1) Other than those Vortex caps, there's no PBT caps which are backlit compatible.
2) Should be fine but honestly, I've been touch typing for years so I'm not the best person to ask. Just out of curiosity, is there a reason you don't want to learn how to touch type?
3) I'm running a Novatouch tour but you need 100 posts in order to join.

Is there currently any place to purchase PCB mounted cherry stabilizers besides GON and winkeyless?

Not that I know of other than imsto's. Not sure if they're original Cherry or not.

[greath]

Second question is related:
I've never used a non-backlit keycap on a keyboard with backlighting, ever. How visible is the lettering when gaming at night with my monitor on but the lights off?

I think the CPT answered your other questions well, but to answer this one: as someone who needs to see the keys for reassurance (I can almost touch type but my fingers lack confidence), this depends heavily on the font and contrast of the keycaps. Filco ninja keycaps, SUPER hard to see at night on a non-backlit keyboard. OG Cherry white on black doubleshots, not a problem seeing in the world. I'm currently using IMSTO's blue/red hangul set and I have 0 issues seeing the random system keys I need for gaming (I have trouble locating like "L" with my left hand when I'm playing an MMO for example without being able to see the keyboard). 

[Dark_wizzie]

1) Anybody know of a PBT keycap that allows for backlighting to shine through with the led BELOWWWWW the switch?

More

The Vortex PBT+Pom keycaps do not work at all with my YOTH which has the led below the switch. I'm sitting here paying for a Kmac, trying to get a Gon PCB change to get leds on all keys, and now I realize the led orientation is below the switch and there's no getting around that.

2) I've never used a non-backlit keycap on a keyboard with backlighting, ever. How visible is the lettering when gaming at night with my monitor on but the lights off?

3) Anybody know somewhere where I can try out a Topre keyboard?

More

My location is San Jose, CA. LA is too far, I can buy the keyboard with the gas money. SF is possible but it's really reaching. Anybody know of a local Frys that has one out to try maybe? 

My US geography is a bit vague.  Are you anywhere near EK?

http://www.elitekeyboards.com/support.php?lang=en#10

Unfortunately that location is practically LA, maybe a bit farther. I've contacted a random guy selling a Novatouch, asking him if I can type on it for a little bit to try it.

I just like seeing letters when I look down on my keyboard, lol. Well, I like to see letters lit up. But if I don't fix the keycap vs led below the switch problem, that's not going to happen either way.
Somebody suggested I get clear tops and bright leds to see if it can shine through the keycaps despite leds being below the switch.

1) Other than those Vortex caps, there's no PBT caps which are backlit compatible.
2) Should be fine but honestly, I've been touch typing for years so I'm not the best person to ask. Just out of curiosity, is there a reason you don't want to learn how to touch type?
3) I'm running a Novatouch tour but you need 100 posts in order to join.

Is there currently any place to purchase PCB mounted cherry stabilizers besides GON and winkeyless?

Not that I know of other than imsto's. Not sure if they're original Cherry or not.

[StinkyTheDonut]

I have a really petty question.
Should I set up my plate for stepped offset caps lock or centered caps lock?
Don't want that wide modular cutout or mod the stem for my backlit key either lol

Do you want a stepped or centered caps lock? Go from there.

Thanks.
After some thinking, maybe I will just make it centered and try to mod the stepped cap.
If I ruin it, or it doesn't light up at all, it wont be too big a deal since I have a normal centered cap.
Really just wanted it for looks and have it further out of the way since i don't use it much lol.

[r0mIe_Ng]

Hi guys,

I want to ask how good is this soldering kit for a one off assembling project?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-Iron-Tool-Kit-Set-Stand-Sponge-Desolder-Pump-Solder-Wire-Magnifier-GC-/331446143457?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d2bbac9e1

[CPTBadAss]

Hi guys,

I want to ask how good is this soldering kit for a one off assembling project?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-Iron-Tool-Kit-Set-Stand-Sponge-Desolder-Pump-Solder-Wire-Magnifier-GC-/331446143457?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d2bbac9e1

Um...Looks pretty shoddy to be honest. Never seen that before. But it's probably no worse than what they sell at MicroCenter.

[r0mIe_Ng]

Hi guys,

I want to ask how good is this soldering kit for a one off assembling project?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-Iron-Tool-Kit-Set-Stand-Sponge-Desolder-Pump-Solder-Wire-Magnifier-GC-/331446143457?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d2bbac9e1

Um...Looks pretty shoddy to be honest. Never seen that before. But it's probably no worse than what they sell at MicroCenter.

Do you know any decent soldering kit that I can purchase within EU region?

[CPTBadAss]

Hi guys,

I want to ask how good is this soldering kit for a one off assembling project?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-Iron-Tool-Kit-Set-Stand-Sponge-Desolder-Pump-Solder-Wire-Magnifier-GC-/331446143457?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d2bbac9e1

Um...Looks pretty shoddy to be honest. Never seen that before. But it's probably no worse than what they sell at MicroCenter.

Do you know any decent soldering kit that I can purchase within EU region?

Unfortunately I don't know anything about soldering kits in the EU. I suggest posting in the living soldering thread and asking.

[r0mIe_Ng]

Hi guys,

I want to ask how good is this soldering kit for a one off assembling project?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-Iron-Tool-Kit-Set-Stand-Sponge-Desolder-Pump-Solder-Wire-Magnifier-GC-/331446143457?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4d2bbac9e1

Um...Looks pretty shoddy to be honest. Never seen that before. But it's probably no worse than what they sell at MicroCenter.

Do you know any decent soldering kit that I can purchase within EU region?

Unfortunately I don't know anything about soldering kits in the EU. I suggest posting in the living soldering thread and asking.

Aright i see. Thanks again for your help. Gladly appreciated!

[kakakowie]

I'm looking for a 60% pcb that has the mini usb port coming out from the side rather than the top. I use a 60% over my laptop and the cable on top gets in the way.

Are there any 60% PCBs with this feature or would I have to rewire my current one myself?

[CPTBadAss]

I'm looking for a 60% pcb that has the mini usb port coming out from the side rather than the top. I use a 60% over my laptop and the cable on top gets in the way.

Are there any 60% PCBs with this feature or would I have to rewire my current one myself?

Ducky mini and ducky mini year of the horse.

[MJ45]

I'm looking for a 60% pcb that has the mini usb port coming out from the side rather than the top. I use a 60% over my laptop and the cable on top gets in the way.

Are there any 60% PCBs with this feature or would I have to rewire my current one myself?

There are 90º mini usb adapters available that can be found on EBay for cheap. Then you can use any 60% with a front connector on your laptop. 

[Eszett]

Simple question: what is the difference between this extremely expensive Krytox grease and cheap grease for bike mechanics etc.?

[CPTBadAss]

Simple question: what is the difference between this extremely expensive Krytox grease and cheap grease for bike mechanics etc.?

It supposedly won't break down and won't migrate like other lubricants. If you search for some of mkawa's posts, he goes into a ton of detail on Krytox. It's become a standard and I picked it up for pretty cheap personally so I've been using it. But I've also got some Teflon dry film lube that I'm going to be testing soon.

[Eszett]

It supposedly won't break down and won't migrate like other lubricants. If you search for some of mkawa's posts, he goes into a ton of detail on Krytox. It's become a standard and I picked it up for pretty cheap personally so I've been using it. But I've also got some Teflon dry film lube that I'm going to be testing soon.

Hi Captain! I think I get it. However, please start testing cheaper alternatives, since I have a dull feeling in my guts to buy 5ml for 20$ or something. It is the feeling to get "click-clacked" ;-)

[CPTBadAss]

Hi Captain! I think I get it. However, please start testing cheaper alternatives, since I have a dull feeling in my guts to buy 5ml for 20$ or something. It is the feeling to get "click-clacked" ;-)

I mean just because I use and prefer something doesn't mean you need to use that. I'd be interested in seeing your thoughts on different lubricants as well.

[Eszett]

Captain! I will do that as soon as I can spare a worthless keyboard to act as dummy for a treatment with bike-grease. For now I have to rely on the experience of other people, since my keyboard is a "cuddled pet" so to say ...

[Giorgio]

In a 60% keyboard, for example with a gon pcb,  what difference does the plate make?

No plate:
More silent
More damping

With plate:
More strength when removing the key caps
Better esthetics

[CPTBadAss]

In a 60% keyboard, for example with a gon pcb,  what difference does the plate make?

No plate:
More silent
More damping

With plate:
More strength when removing the key caps
Better esthetics

Depending on the board design, such as a GON, you might need the plate as it's part of the case. If it's like a Pure or Poker X, you won't need one. I prefer a plate. Feels more solid and stable. And the bottom outs feel a bit more solid. Plateless makes the switches feel softer. A plate is definitely not an aesthetic thing. It serves a very noticeable function.

[fohat.digs]

what is the difference between this extremely expensive Krytox grease and cheap grease for bike mechanics etc.?

Lubing stabilizer wires calls for a thick grease that does not affect plastic over time and does not migrate.

I have a 5cc syringe that I got from elite keyboards that has lasted for literally dozens of keyboards.

Lubing the internal parts of switches is very much precision work and requires a light lubricant that is extremely kind to plastics.

Lubricating bicycle parts means heavy-duty metal-on-metal contact and you will want it to migrate, but also to stick on, even through rainstorms.

Very different materials, applications, requirements, and environments.

[Ludovician]

So I got this today and it looks like some variant of DIN AT connector, but the pins are more widely spaced. Does anyone know anything about these, and do you know if there are any adapters around to make it compatible with more common interfaces?

More

[Giorgio]

Thanks, this would be my first build. I was going to purchase a gon pcb with a pexon case. The iso plate with cutouts seems impossible to find. I found one that required pcb mounted stabs. That seems non sense.

In a 60% keyboard, for example with a gon pcb,  what difference does the plate make?

No plate:
More silent
More damping

With plate:
More strength when removing the key caps
Better esthetics

Depending on the board design, such as a GON, you might need the plate as it's part of the case. If it's like a Pure or Poker X, you won't need one. I prefer a plate. Feels more solid and stable. And the bottom outs feel a bit more solid. Plateless makes the switches feel softer. A plate is definitely not an aesthetic thing. It serves a very noticeable function.

[CPTBadAss]

So I got this today and it looks like some variant of DIN AT connector, but the pins are more widely spaced. Does anyone know anything about these, and do you know if there are any adapters around to make it compatible with more common interfaces?

More

Show Image

Ugh I know I've seen threads on that connector but I can't find them at the moment. A Soarer's would work though.

[fohat.digs]

it looks like some variant of DIN AT connector, but the pins are more widely spaced.

Early 122-key Model M terminals used the "240 degree DIN plug" (sometimes called the 270 degree) as opposed to the "180 degree" standard DIN connector.

What seems strange about yours is that the arc of the pins and the index bump would cause it to be plugged in at an angle, which might be very awkward. IBM made straight (1st generation with metal screw rim) and 90 degree (2nd generation, all plastic) versions.

The pins look a little different but it may be an optical illusion or my bad eyesight.

[Dark_wizzie]

Question:
The plug on the Kmac 2. It's a mini-usb connection, right?

[CPTBadAss]

Question:
The plug on the Kmac 2. It's a mini-usb connection, right?

Yes. Very few keyboards use the micro USB connections. Most are using the mini.

[Ludovician]

it looks like some variant of DIN AT connector, but the pins are more widely spaced.

Early 122-key Model M terminals used the "240 degree DIN plug" (sometimes called the 270 degree) as opposed to the "180 degree" standard DIN connector.

What seems strange about yours is that the arc of the pins and the index bump would cause it to be plugged in at an angle, which might be very awkward. IBM made straight (1st generation with metal screw rim) and 90 degree (2nd generation, all plastic) versions.

The pins look a little different but it may be an optical illusion or my bad eyesight.

So I've looked on ebay for a bit and I can see that people have the connectors for sale. The only premade cable available is the Soarer's Converter from Orihalcon. Apart from those, would my only option be buying a connector, some cable and a PS/2 connector and making my own adapter? How do I know the pinouts?

Thanks.

[CPTBadAss]

it looks like some variant of DIN AT connector, but the pins are more widely spaced.

Early 122-key Model M terminals used the "240 degree DIN plug" (sometimes called the 270 degree) as opposed to the "180 degree" standard DIN connector.

What seems strange about yours is that the arc of the pins and the index bump would cause it to be plugged in at an angle, which might be very awkward. IBM made straight (1st generation with metal screw rim) and 90 degree (2nd generation, all plastic) versions.

The pins look a little different but it may be an optical illusion or my bad eyesight.

So I've looked on ebay for a bit and I can see that people have the connectors for sale. The only premade cable available is the Soarer's Converter from Orihalcon. Apart from those, would my only option be buying a connector, some cable and a PS/2 connector and making my own adapter? How do I know the pinouts?

Thanks.

Soarer's converter isn't just made by Orihalcon. You can make your own if you check out the link I posted before. A Soarer converter is really just a Teensy based Converter that Soarer came up with. Orihalcon sells some and there maybe others. There may be an adapter you can buy that converts your connector to PS/2 then you can daisy chain a PS/2 to USB converter after that. The OP of Soarer's thread has some pinouts. I'm not sure how else you can find them out. But it looks like your pins are just rotated and you can use some of the pin outs. Otherwise, you can try searching for your keyboard online and see if anyone has pinouts. Alternatively, you can PM Haata or Dorkvader and see if they can help.

[fohat.digs]

After several iterations, I settled on this as my endgame converter box.

If you are going to stay in the game, this will make life a lot easier. Spend the $30-40 and the hour or 2 and make a really nice box in an aluminum (aka aluminium) case.

One day I am going to open this up and connect that 5th wire to the Teensy in hopes of getting something that will work with a Leading Edge 2014.

PS - shameless plug - for GHers in the US, there is this: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70203.msg1688887#msg1688887

[Ludovician]

it looks like some variant of DIN AT connector, but the pins are more widely spaced.

Early 122-key Model M terminals used the "240 degree DIN plug" (sometimes called the 270 degree) as opposed to the "180 degree" standard DIN connector.

What seems strange about yours is that the arc of the pins and the index bump would cause it to be plugged in at an angle, which might be very awkward. IBM made straight (1st generation with metal screw rim) and 90 degree (2nd generation, all plastic) versions.

The pins look a little different but it may be an optical illusion or my bad eyesight.

So I've looked on ebay for a bit and I can see that people have the connectors for sale. The only premade cable available is the Soarer's Converter from Orihalcon. Apart from those, would my only option be buying a connector, some cable and a PS/2 connector and making my own adapter? How do I know the pinouts?

Thanks.

Soarer's converter isn't just made by Orihalcon. You can make your own if you check out the link I posted before. A Soarer converter is really just a Teensy based Converter that Soarer came up with. Orihalcon sells some and there maybe others. There may be an adapter you can buy that converts your connector to PS/2 then you can daisy chain a PS/2 to USB converter after that. The OP of Soarer's thread has some pinouts. I'm not sure how else you can find them out. But it looks like your pins are just rotated and you can use some of the pin outs. Otherwise, you can try searching for your keyboard online and see if anyone has pinouts. Alternatively, you can PM Haata or Dorkvader and see if they can help.

Yeah, I know that. I was just referring to the premade ones Orihalcon SCs as the only "adapters" (I know it's more than just a simple adapter) available, it seems.

I would like to find a simple adapter that does what you said. I'll keep looking for a bit but I might need to make my own in the end.

[CPTBadAss]

More

it looks like some variant of DIN AT connector, but the pins are more widely spaced.

Early 122-key Model M terminals used the "240 degree DIN plug" (sometimes called the 270 degree) as opposed to the "180 degree" standard DIN connector.

What seems strange about yours is that the arc of the pins and the index bump would cause it to be plugged in at an angle, which might be very awkward. IBM made straight (1st generation with metal screw rim) and 90 degree (2nd generation, all plastic) versions.

The pins look a little different but it may be an optical illusion or my bad eyesight.

So I've looked on ebay for a bit and I can see that people have the connectors for sale. The only premade cable available is the Soarer's Converter from Orihalcon. Apart from those, would my only option be buying a connector, some cable and a PS/2 connector and making my own adapter? How do I know the pinouts?

Thanks.

Soarer's converter isn't just made by Orihalcon. You can make your own if you check out the link I posted before. A Soarer converter is really just a Teensy based Converter that Soarer came up with. Orihalcon sells some and there maybe others. There may be an adapter you can buy that converts your connector to PS/2 then you can daisy chain a PS/2 to USB converter after that. The OP of Soarer's thread has some pinouts. I'm not sure how else you can find them out. But it looks like your pins are just rotated and you can use some of the pin outs. Otherwise, you can try searching for your keyboard online and see if anyone has pinouts. Alternatively, you can PM Haata or Dorkvader and see if they can help.

Yeah, I know that. I was just referring to the premade ones Orihalcon SCs as the only "adapters" (I know it's more than just a simple adapter) available, it seems.

I would like to find a simple adapter that does what you said. I'll keep looking for a bit but I might need to make my own in the end.

FWIW, I've got a Din 5 to PS/2 converter on my Siig Minitouch. I got it at Microcenter but you can get them online as well. In order to get it to type, I need to use two converters: Din 5 to PS/2 then PS/2 to USB. This is because for some reason, plugging it right into the PS/2 port won't work. At the very least, you could get one of these Din 5 to PS/2 adapters for cheap and test it. Then you can decide if you need to make a Soarer's or not.

[azhdar]

Does a 65% ISO compatible pcb exist?

[CPTBadAss]

Does a 65% ISO compatible pcb exist?

I've never seen that exact layout.

[Ludovician]

FWIW, I've got a Din 5 to PS/2 converter on my Siig Minitouch. I got it at Microcenter but you can get them online as well. In order to get it to type, I need to use two converters: Din 5 to PS/2 then PS/2 to USB. This is because for some reason, plugging it right into the PS/2 port won't work. At the very least, you could get one of these Din 5 to PS/2 adapters for cheap and test it. Then you can decide if you need to make a Soarer's or not.

Right. I have several standard DIN 5 to ps/2 adapters already, that part isn't a problem. This keyboard has the 270 degree pins though. I found someone online saying that Amstrad used a proprietary standard for their keyboard connectors, so it looks like it'll be a DIY job if I want to get this working.

[azhdar]

Does a 65% ISO compatible pcb exist?

I've never seen that exact layout.

http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/54c20e2fde4694ffdd014374a62694ca
something like that, Bottom row to be adjusted probably with 2x1.5u mods to fill the gap.

[CPTBadAss]

Does a 65% ISO compatible pcb exist?

I've never seen that exact layout.

http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/#/layouts/54c20e2fde4694ffdd014374a62694ca
something like that, Bottom row to be adjusted probably with 2x1.5u mods to fill the gap.

The link doesn't work on my computer at work but I think I know what you're asking for. What I meant is that I've never seen that layout available on any PCB.

[jdcarpe]

Thanks, this would be my first build. I was going to purchase a gon pcb with a pexon case. The iso plate with cutouts seems impossible to find. I found one that required pcb mounted stabs. That seems non sense.

It's not nonsense that a plate would require the use of PCB mount stabilizers. In fact, most of the plates I now design have the same requirement. By eliminating the requirement on the plate to have cutouts specific to a stabilizer hole, you can use a simpler hole design that is basically just an opening to allow the PCB mounted stabilizer to pass through the plate. This is done in so-called "universal" plates, so that overlapping holes can be used, which support varied layout options. Otherwise, to design a plate that allows for plate mounted stabilizers, you lose the layout options, and are limited to a specific layout, such as ISO versus ANSI, in the plate design. It's much more economical to design one plate which will work with many layouts, than to require a distributor to make a minimum purchase of several different plates which may or may not sell. Many people prefer PCB mount stabilizers, anyway, so requiring their use doesn't seem a hurdle to sales.

That said, you can always design your own plate and have a one-off made, albeit at a higher cost to yourself.

[Giorgio]

I thought that it was nonsense because the captain said that plate mounted switches are better and more solid, so it seemed that to mount the stab on the pcb could add flex and some rattle. Surely it adds flexibility, wasn't sure about the final performance...

Thanks, this would be my first build. I was going to purchase a gon pcb with a pexon case. The iso plate with cutouts seems impossible to find. I found one that required pcb mounted stabs. That seems non sense.

It's not nonsense that a plate would require the use of PCB mount stabilizers. In fact, most of the plates I now design have the same requirement. By eliminating the requirement on the plate to have cutouts specific to a stabilizer hole, you can use a simpler hole design that is basically just an opening to allow the PCB mounted stabilizer to pass through the plate. This is done in so-called "universal" plates, so that overlapping holes can be used, which support varied layout options. Otherwise, to design a plate that allows for plate mounted stabilizers, you lose the layout options, and are limited to a specific layout, such as ISO versus ANSI, in the plate design. It's much more economical to design one plate which will work with many layouts, than to require a distributor to make a minimum purchase of several different plates which may or may not sell. Many people prefer PCB mount stabilizers, anyway, so requiring their use doesn't seem a hurdle to sales.

That said, you can always design your own plate and have a one-off made, albeit at a higher cost to yourself.

[Photoelectric]

Does anyone know the default combination to toggle on/off all the LEDs on a KMAC Happy keyboard?
Looking at the KMAC Happy programming tool, the default is the left-most top row key (Esc / ~) in the Function layer, but I guess the KMAC Happy in front of me had been reprogrammed, since I can't get any combination I've tried so far to turn off the LEDs.

[Ouro]

Are there MX Clears in stock anywhere at this point? If not, how consistent are the White switches available from mechanicalkeyboards.com? Need switches for my incoming Red Scarf but don't want Linear, and Green is too loud ~_~

[trizkut]

Are there MX Clears in stock anywhere at this point? If not, how consistent are the White switches available from mechanicalkeyboards.com? Need switches for my incoming Red Scarf but don't want Linear, and Green is too loud ~_~

I think zeal (zealpc.net) still has some, but you'll be paying a fair bit for shipping and it might not be worth it for you unless you buy a bit more than just switches.

[sethk_]

Are there MX Clears in stock anywhere at this point? If not, how consistent are the White switches available from mechanicalkeyboards.com? Need switches for my incoming Red Scarf but don't want Linear, and Green is too loud ~_~

I think zeal (zealpc.net) still has some, but you'll be paying a fair bit for shipping and it might not be worth it for you unless you buy a bit more than just switches.

There is a code that is listed that is for free shipping on switches

[trigun0x2]

Where can I get a plate or drawing for a plate for this PCB?
A87
http://i.imgur.com/S7XYiTb.jpg?1

[Joey Quinn]

Where can I get a plate or drawing for a plate for this PCB?
A87
http://i.imgur.com/S7XYiTb.jpg?1

http://builder.swillkb.com/

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=65189.0

Use keyboard layout editor to get the layout for the plate builder, then Big Blue Saw can cut it for you.

[sethk_]

Where can I get a plate or drawing for a plate for this PCB?
A87
http://i.imgur.com/S7XYiTb.jpg?1

http://builder.swillkb.com/

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=65189.0

Use keyboard layout editor to get the layout for the plate builder, then Big Blue Saw can cut it for you.

If you are using the layout editor, make sure it actually matches up with the PCB, as I made one for the B87 layout, and when matching up with the one Monstermask made, it didn't line up, so I had to use autocad to line up the plate

[Joey Quinn]

Where can I get a plate or drawing for a plate for this PCB?
A87
http://i.imgur.com/S7XYiTb.jpg?1

http://builder.swillkb.com/

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=65189.0

Use keyboard layout editor to get the layout for the plate builder, then Big Blue Saw can cut it for you.

If you are using the layout editor, make sure it actually matches up with the PCB, as I made one for the B87 layout, and when matching up with the one Monstermask made, it didn't line up, so I had to use autocad to line up the plate

What do you mean by line up? Are you talking about the top row gap/ spacing?

[sethk_]

Where can I get a plate or drawing for a plate for this PCB?
A87
http://i.imgur.com/S7XYiTb.jpg?1

http://builder.swillkb.com/

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=65189.0

Use keyboard layout editor to get the layout for the plate builder, then Big Blue Saw can cut it for you.

If you are using the layout editor, make sure it actually matches up with the PCB, as I made one for the B87 layout, and when matching up with the one Monstermask made, it didn't line up, so I had to use autocad to line up the plate

What do you mean by line up? Are you talking about the top row gap/ spacing?

Yeah, but the spacing issues were only with the function keys in relation to the main part, and the TKL to the main part

[Joey Quinn]

Where can I get a plate or drawing for a plate for this PCB?
A87
http://i.imgur.com/S7XYiTb.jpg?1

http://builder.swillkb.com/

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=65189.0

Use keyboard layout editor to get the layout for the plate builder, then Big Blue Saw can cut it for you.

If you are using the layout editor, make sure it actually matches up with the PCB, as I made one for the B87 layout, and when matching up with the one Monstermask made, it didn't line up, so I had to use autocad to line up the plate

What do you mean by line up? Are you talking about the top row gap/ spacing?

Yeah, but the spacing issues were only with the function keys in relation to the main part, and the TKL to the main part

Do you still have the measurements you used?

[Ouro]

Are there MX Clears in stock anywhere at this point? If not, how consistent are the White switches available from mechanicalkeyboards.com? Need switches for my incoming Red Scarf but don't want Linear, and Green is too loud ~_~

I think zeal (zealpc.net) still has some, but you'll be paying a fair bit for shipping and it might not be worth it for you unless you buy a bit more than just switches.

It appears I'm too late. No White or CLear plate mounted switches. GON has some but they're PCB mounted IIRC