Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[Beca]

is the techkeys lube kit the same as the one on originative's site?

http://techkeys.us/collections/accessories/products/krytox-switch-lurbricant

identical description. I wish it wasn't marked up though :/

[CPTBadAss]

is the techkeys lube kit the same as the one on originative's site?

http://techkeys.us/collections/accessories/products/krytox-switch-lurbricant

identical description. I wish it wasn't marked up though :/

Yes. The lube kits at MechanicalKeyboards.com, TechKeys.us, and Originative are all the same. They're kits made and distributed by mkawa.

[Beca]

is the techkeys lube kit the same as the one on originative's site?

http://techkeys.us/collections/accessories/products/krytox-switch-lurbricant

identical description. I wish it wasn't marked up though :/

Yes. The lube kits at MechanicalKeyboards.com, TechKeys.us, and Originative are all the same. They're kits made and distributed by mkawa.

I see, thanks. And what lube would you use for vintage blacks? it says thin in the description but in searching through threads, people recommend thick.

[CPTBadAss]

And what lube would you use for vintage blacks?

I mixed my own lube when I went to visit mkawa. My formulation is very similar to the thin formulation of lube. I have lubed vintage black stems with 65g springs on my Epsilon.

[Beca]

And what lube would you use for vintage blacks?

I mixed my own lube when I went to visit mkawa. My formulation is very similar to the thin formulation of lube. I have lubed vintage black stems with 65g springs on my Epsilon.

awesome, thanks for the help!

[Jixr]

mx clears = mx tactile grays right?

[riotonthebay]

mx clears = mx tactile grays right?

Tactile greys are heavier.

[SpAmRaY]

mx clears = mx tactile grays right?

tactile grays are heavier

meh...ninja'd

[Jixr]

by how much, blacks are about equal to 80g koreans, ( i've never used clears or grays, but am going to for my next build )

but the bump profile is the same correct?

[CPTBadAss]

by how much, blacks are about equal to 80g koreans, ( i've never used clears or grays, but am going to for my next build )

but the bump profile is the same correct?

Bump feels the same to me. MX Tactile Grey, according to the DT wiki, is 80 cN at actuation. Clear is 55 cN.

[SL89]

I know keycap profiles have different values.
(Row 1 on an SA is shaped differently from Row 3 on an SA set.)

But are there keyboards that have the switches installed at different angle?
(Row 1 angled 'forward' to 80° , while Row 3 is 'standard' at 90° to the plate / board)

[CPTBadAss]

But are there keyboards that have the switches installed at different angle?
(Row 1 angled 'forward' to 80° , while Row 3 is 'standard' at 90° to the plate / board)

I've seen a few keyboards (Ducky Shine 2 and Epsilon come to mind) with a rotated switch or switches. It doesn't change how the switch feels. But the're only rotated either upside down (180 from normal) or clocked at 90 degrees.

[elton5354]

Will all the key caps from an old Cherry G80-1800 fit a modern keyboard?

[CPTBadAss]

Will all the key caps from an old Cherry G80-1800 fit a modern keyboard?

The mod rows won't fit a standard 1.25x ANSI keyboard but the other caps should be fine. Oh and the right shift and capslock will be off too.

[Jixr]

i LOVE heavy switches, every thing I have are blacks or greens, but am considering grays or clears for my next build and am unsure of which to go off of.

[CPTBadAss]

i LOVE heavy switches, every thing I have are blacks or greens, but am considering grays or clears for my next build and am unsure of which to go off of.

Greens and Tactile Greys are rated at the same actuation force but I found that Greys are too heavy for me. But I like Greens. It's odd but that's just what I like. Stock Clears are very nice.

[epzy]

i LOVE heavy switches, every thing I have are blacks or greens, but am considering grays or clears for my next build and am unsure of which to go off of.

Clears will feel pretty light if you don't bottom out, btw.

[BlueBär]

But are there keyboards that have the switches installed at different angle?
(Row 1 angled 'forward' to 80° , while Row 3 is 'standard' at 90° to the plate / board)

I've seen a few keyboards (Ducky Shine 2 and Epsilon come to mind) with a rotated switch in a few spots. It doesn't change how the switch feels. But the're only rotated either upside down (180 from normal) or clocked at 90 degrees.

I think he meant a bit rotated around the horizontal axis? Basically to enhance the profile. The Model M has this as its plate is bent, also some ergo keyboards like the Kinesis Advantage do this. It is kind of difficult as the PCB has to be flexible or each row has to have its own PCB, thus manufacturers rather create the profile curve via the keycaps.

[CPTBadAss]

I think he meant a bit rotated around the horizontal axis?

You're rotated a bit around the horizontal axis :|

[BlueBär]

You're rotated a bit around the horizontal axis :|

Rude! Racist!

[Sifo]

Just because he's german doesn't mean he's Axis... incredibly racist CDTNewAss

[intelli78]

Are there any mass-produced winkeyless tenkeyless boards?

[Melvang]

Alright I know that the default size for costar stabilizer wires is listed as .047".  However, does anyone know if .045" or .051" will work?  The reason I am asking is because I found some PTFE coated spring temper 304 stainless wire but it is pretty expensive.  List price at the website I found was $64.47 for a single 70 inch long piece of it.  And I was wondering if the size difference would make much difference if at all.  I was thinking of leaning toward the .045" as it is dimensionally closer and would be a touch easier to fit into the proper places, along with being slightly easier to bend without cracking and breaking (a serious consideration at this price).

[HoffmanMyster]

Alright I know that the default size for costar stabilizer wires is listed as .047".  However, does anyone know if .045" or .051" will work?  The reason I am asking is because I found some PTFE coated spring temper 304 stainless wire but it is pretty expensive.  List price at the website I found was $64.47 for a single 70 inch long piece of it.  And I was wondering if the size difference would make much difference if at all.  I was thinking of leaning toward the .045" as it is dimensionally closer and would be a touch easier to fit into the proper places, along with being slightly easier to bend without cracking and breaking (a serious consideration at this price).

Are you asking this because you're having difficulty finding the appropriate wire, or you prefer to use a wire type which doesn't come in the suggested size?  I found the suggested wire for pretty cheap, so I'd expect you would be able to as well, unless I'm misunderstanding the situation here. 

[Melvang]

Alright I know that the default size for costar stabilizer wires is listed as .047".  However, does anyone know if .045" or .051" will work?  The reason I am asking is because I found some PTFE coated spring temper 304 stainless wire but it is pretty expensive.  List price at the website I found was $64.47 for a single 70 inch long piece of it.  And I was wondering if the size difference would make much difference if at all.  I was thinking of leaning toward the .045" as it is dimensionally closer and would be a touch easier to fit into the proper places, along with being slightly easier to bend without cracking and breaking (a serious consideration at this price).

Are you asking this because you're having difficulty finding the appropriate wire, or you prefer to use a wire type which doesn't come in the suggested size?  I found the suggested wire for pretty cheap, so I'd expect you would be able to as well, unless I'm misunderstanding the situation here.

Asking because I found a different wire that is PTFE coated (permanant lubrication on the wire) but the closest 2 sizes are .002" under or .004" over sized.

[HoffmanMyster]

Alright I know that the default size for costar stabilizer wires is listed as .047".  However, does anyone know if .045" or .051" will work?  The reason I am asking is because I found some PTFE coated spring temper 304 stainless wire but it is pretty expensive.  List price at the website I found was $64.47 for a single 70 inch long piece of it.  And I was wondering if the size difference would make much difference if at all.  I was thinking of leaning toward the .045" as it is dimensionally closer and would be a touch easier to fit into the proper places, along with being slightly easier to bend without cracking and breaking (a serious consideration at this price).

Are you asking this because you're having difficulty finding the appropriate wire, or you prefer to use a wire type which doesn't come in the suggested size?  I found the suggested wire for pretty cheap, so I'd expect you would be able to as well, unless I'm misunderstanding the situation here.

Asking because I found a different wire that is PTFE coated (permanant lubrication on the wire) but the closest 2 sizes are .002" under or .004" over sized.

Ahhh, yes, so you're seeking that property.  Got it.  Just wasn't sure if you wanted that or were "settling" for it.  Hmm.  Well, I would suspect that you might prefer it to be oversized if anything, to avoid any rattle that might occur, but you obviously don't want to go on a hunch that I have when it costs that much.  I wonder if you could find a cheaper material in those sizes to test the fit?

[mkawa]

Alright I know that the default size for costar stabilizer wires is listed as .047".  However, does anyone know if .045" or .051" will work?  The reason I am asking is because I found some PTFE coated spring temper 304 stainless wire but it is pretty expensive.  List price at the website I found was $64.47 for a single 70 inch long piece of it.  And I was wondering if the size difference would make much difference if at all.  I was thinking of leaning toward the .045" as it is dimensionally closer and would be a touch easier to fit into the proper places, along with being slightly easier to bend without cracking and breaking (a serious consideration at this price).

ptfe coating metals is actually pretty easy if you have access to krytox. thinned krytox grease is basically self-leveling ptfe powder. coat, then hit it with a butane torch. quench in solvent (i use acetone). repeat for a thicker layer. lubricity of thinned krytox is high enough that you're using very little lubricant + ptfe mix to get a thin, even layer. anything you manage to burn into carbon (maybe some pfpe strands, but more likely excess ptfe) will come off in the solvent with the nucleation of quenching. i've coated a whole bunch of 3d printer cold-ends this way and it's pretty fantastic. usually when ptfe is used for printer cold ends, it's a thick liner and acts as a serious thermal barrier. the 10-20mic layer you get from this process reduces coefficient of friction but is too thin to be a thermal barrier.

oh, keep in mind that a hell of a lot of formaldehyde is released whenever ptfe melts. ventilation is quite key.

[Melvang]

Alright I know that the default size for costar stabilizer wires is listed as .047".  However, does anyone know if .045" or .051" will work?  The reason I am asking is because I found some PTFE coated spring temper 304 stainless wire but it is pretty expensive.  List price at the website I found was $64.47 for a single 70 inch long piece of it.  And I was wondering if the size difference would make much difference if at all.  I was thinking of leaning toward the .045" as it is dimensionally closer and would be a touch easier to fit into the proper places, along with being slightly easier to bend without cracking and breaking (a serious consideration at this price).

ptfe coating metals is actually pretty easy if you have access to krytox. thinned krytox grease is basically self-leveling ptfe powder. coat, then hit it with a butane torch. quench in solvent (i use acetone). repeat for a thicker layer. lubricity of thinned krytox is high enough that you're using very little lubricant + ptfe mix to get a thin, even layer. anything you manage to burn into carbon (maybe some pfpe strands, but more likely excess ptfe) will come off in the solvent with the nucleation of quenching. i've coated a whole bunch of 3d printer cold-ends this way and it's pretty fantastic. usually when ptfe is used for printer cold ends, it's a thick liner and acts as a serious thermal barrier. the 10-20mic layer you get from this process reduces coefficient of friction but is too thin to be a thermal barrier.

oh, keep in mind that a hell of a lot of formaldehyde is released whenever ptfe melts. ventilation is quite key.

Thanks for the info on that mkawa.  I will have to give that a try.  Any suggestions on if carbon steels or stainless lets the coatings stick better?  I do still have most of that krytox I got from you.  I used half the thin with just a touch of the thick mixed in.

[CPTBadAss]

Are there any mass-produced winkeyless tenkeyless boards?

Don't think so. None come to mind at the moment at least.

[sth]

Will all the key caps from an old Cherry G80-1800 fit a modern keyboard?

The mod rows won't fit a standard 1.25x ANSI keyboard but the other caps should be fine. Oh and the right shift and capslock will be off too.

if you're a profile stickler, the delete, pg down and end keys are also the wrong profile.

[digi]

anyone else get "Awaiting Approval" when posting int the classy's? did that change recently? 

[dorkvader]

anyone else get "Awaiting Approval" when posting int the classy's? did that change recently? 

Is it red?

PM an online mod or admin and they can look at it and approve it.

Usually that's when a post triggers the spam filter for whatever reason (usually it has links or pictures), but it can be for other reasons. Do you have your pictures present and properly tagged with your name/date?

[digi]

anyone else get "Awaiting Approval" when posting int the classy's? did that change recently? 

Is it red?

PM an online mod or admin and they can look at it and approve it.

Usually that's when a post triggers the spam filter for whatever reason (usually it has links or pictures), but it can be for other reasons. Do you have your pictures present and properly tagged with your name/date?

Thanks for the info but yea it's just a normal post, nothing out of the ordinary, I was thinking it was a false positive or something. Never seen that before.

[minho]

What's the best way to open cherry MX switches? is using a tool such as the beasts or that binder clip mod necessary?

Also is it possible to open plate mounted switches like on the poker without desoldering first?

[rockhawksam]

What are the benefits of Korean custom made keyboards?

[Brad 808]

So, looking for a source for plate mount stabilizers, cherry or costar. It seems that WASD is out and I can't google up a good source.

[Melvang]

So I just finished up bolt modding a Lexmark M with a new barrel plate and while everything works in aquakeytest, a couple keeps sound different.  moslty a couple around the T and the enter in the numpad area.  The enter in the numpad area has an extra "pin" upon release.  Also the "T" doesn't register until almost all the way down.  It does click at the actuation point just doesn't happen at the same place in the keystroke as the rest of the keys. 

Would this be a good indicator of time to replace the springs and hammers?

[epzy]

What are the benefits of Korean custom made keyboards?

Custom (obviously), programmable, aesthetics, heavy (solid feel)... maybe someone else wants to add onto this list.

[BlueBär]

What are the benefits of Korean custom made keyboards?

Metal case, programmable, sometimes with programmable backlighting. Also, because they require assembly you can really customize them to make it "your" keyboard.

1. What's the best way to open cherry MX switches? is using a tool such as the beasts or that binder clip mod necessary?
2. Also is it possible to open plate mounted switches like on the poker without desoldering first?

1. There is no real best way but beast switch tools are pretty nice. Apart from that pretty much anything goes:

2. No, not unless you have a custom aftermarket plate.

Thanks for the info but yea it's just a normal post, nothing out of the ordinary, I was thinking it was a false positive or something. Never seen that before.

Afaik for now all classifieds threads have to be approved because many people didn't follow the new rules.

[Photoelectric]

So, looking for a source for plate mount stabilizers, cherry or costar. It seems that WASD is out and I can't google up a good source.

There is information on stabilizer sources in the beginning of this thread, first page.

[minho]

1. There is no real best way but beast switch tools are pretty nice. Apart from that pretty much anything goes:

2. No, not unless you have a custom aftermarket plate.

I see. Thanks for posting that video, are there more video tutorial type things somewhere? I vaguely recall mkawa starting a series, but I forgot where on the forum he posted it...

[BlueBär]

I see. Thanks for posting that video, are there more video tutorial type things somewhere? I vaguely recall mkawa starting a series, but I forgot where on the forum he posted it...

You can find the GH channel here: https://www.youtube.com/user/geekhackin
I would also recommend WhiteFireDragon's videos.

[Melvang]

So I just finished up bolt modding a Lexmark M with a new barrel plate and while everything works in aquakeytest, a couple keeps sound different.  moslty a couple around the T and the enter in the numpad area.  The enter in the numpad area has an extra "pin" upon release.  Also the "T" doesn't register until almost all the way down.  It does click at the actuation point just doesn't happen at the same place in the keystroke as the rest of the keys. 

Would this be a good indicator of time to replace the springs and hammers?

Not trying to double post my question but after thinking about this, could this be caused by the screws being to tight?  This seems plausible because the sandwich isn't letting the hammers strike, and delaying the return motion causing the exaggerated ping.

[dorkvader]

So I just finished up bolt modding a Lexmark M with a new barrel plate and while everything works in aquakeytest, a couple keeps sound different.  moslty a couple around the T and the enter in the numpad area.  The enter in the numpad area has an extra "pin" upon release.  Also the "T" doesn't register until almost all the way down.  It does click at the actuation point just doesn't happen at the same place in the keystroke as the rest of the keys. 

Would this be a good indicator of time to replace the springs and hammers?

Not trying to double post my question but after thinking about this, could this be caused by the screws being to tight?  This seems plausible because the sandwich isn't letting the hammers strike, and delaying the return motion causing the exaggerated ping.

Yes, this can be it. I had a similar issue on one of my Ms.

Make sure they are all only "finger" tight.

I was going to post this in response to your first question anyway.

[Melvang]

So I just finished up bolt modding a Lexmark M with a new barrel plate and while everything works in aquakeytest, a couple keeps sound different.  moslty a couple around the T and the enter in the numpad area.  The enter in the numpad area has an extra "pin" upon release.  Also the "T" doesn't register until almost all the way down.  It does click at the actuation point just doesn't happen at the same place in the keystroke as the rest of the keys. 

Would this be a good indicator of time to replace the springs and hammers?

Not trying to double post my question but after thinking about this, could this be caused by the screws being to tight?  This seems plausible because the sandwich isn't letting the hammers strike, and delaying the return motion causing the exaggerated ping.

Yes, this can be it. I had a similar issue on one of my Ms.

Make sure they are all only "finger" tight.

I was going to post this in response to your first question anyway.

Alright, I will back them off.  I actually tightened them down with a nut driver.

[dorkvader]

So I just finished up bolt modding a Lexmark M with a new barrel plate and while everything works in aquakeytest, a couple keeps sound different.  moslty a couple around the T and the enter in the numpad area.  The enter in the numpad area has an extra "pin" upon release.  Also the "T" doesn't register until almost all the way down.  It does click at the actuation point just doesn't happen at the same place in the keystroke as the rest of the keys. 

Would this be a good indicator of time to replace the springs and hammers?

Not trying to double post my question but after thinking about this, could this be caused by the screws being to tight?  This seems plausible because the sandwich isn't letting the hammers strike, and delaying the return motion causing the exaggerated ping.

Yes, this can be it. I had a similar issue on one of my Ms.

Make sure they are all only "finger" tight.

I was going to post this in response to your first question anyway.

Alright, I will back them off.  I actually tightened them down with a nut driver.

I use a small nut driver attachment for my precision screwdriver set, and it works quite well.

[tbc]

are people finding that dsa caps are hard to pull off on pcb mounted clears?

i ended up completely malforming the latches on a switch i put onto my techkeys pcbs.  the top now 'bobs' and wiggles whenever imtap it with any pressure.  obviously, this isn't a big deal, but i'm not sure if the switch would survive after many more 'uncappings'

[BlueBär]

are people finding that dsa caps are hard to pull off on pcb mounted clears?

DSA caps are a bit tighter and clear stems are a bit thicker, so yes, this is a known issue.

[rowdy]

are people finding that dsa caps are hard to pull off on pcb mounted clears?

DSA caps are a bit tighter and clear stems are a bit thicker, so yes, this is a known issue.

This is by design - see SP FAQ#22: http://keycapsdirect.com/faq.php#22

[BlueBär]

This is by design - see SP FAQ#22: http://keycapsdirect.com/faq.php#22

With issue I mean that the combination of DSA and Clears can cause trouble, not the DSA caps being tighter.