Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[swill]

it is usually cheaper to buy from qtan's store rather than this eBay
http://www.vendio.com/stores/E-sports-Gaming-equipments/category/cateogry1-name/catId=3982960

I've tried some PBT keycaps. They differ greatly in feel (the feel is mainly due to the mould it's cast in rather than the material itself.)

I really like Imso PBT, but it's a lot more smooth than others.
SP's thin PBT is also quite nice. If the profile weren't so... stabby, I'd probably have more. Maybe some blank dsa from them..?
the PBT on my pokerII was unimpressive

My favourite is probably the second (?) generation of IBM PBT, but that's not widely available for cherry.

I like my IMSTO PBT caps.  They were on my daily driver for the last 2 years till my Penumbra set replaced them.  I have only good things to say about those PBT caps.  I haven't tried many others.  The Banggood PBT caps were ok.  The legends sucked, but the material and thickness was pretty reasonable with a medium thickness.  Oh and they were OEM profile which I have to admit is not my favorite profile.  I got the Granite PBT dye sub caps from SP recently.  They feel pretty good and the design is awesome, but I have to admit that I have not been very impressed by the quality of the SP caps I have owned (other than their SA profile caps, which are excellant). 

Anyway, my 0.02$...

[frosty]

what do sip sockets do?

[CPTBadAss]

what do sip sockets do?

If you add them to your switches, then you don't need to solder in LEDs. You just need to insert the LEDs into the SIP Sockets. More information can be found here.

[JaccoW]

I remember someone working on a replacement controller for Model M's or M13's. Where can I find it?

[dorkvader]

I remember someone working on a replacement controller for Model M's or M13's. Where can I find it?

This is the only one I can think of right now, though it's very old (and bluetooth)
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=19104.0

[CPTBadAss]

I remember someone working on a replacement controller for Model M's or M13's. Where can I find it?

This is the only one I can think of right now, though it's very old (and bluetooth)
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=19104.0

In addition to dorkvader's post, I also found these threads:

bcg's project
phosphorglow's Teensy'd Model M

IIRC, you can just add a Teensy to a Model M.

There is also the DPH controller and xwhatsit's controller for Model Fs.

[JaccoW]

I remember someone working on a replacement controller for Model M's or M13's. Where can I find it?

This is the only one I can think of right now, though it's very old (and bluetooth)
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=19104.0

In addition to dorkvader's post, I also found these threads:

bcg's project
phosphorglow's Teensy'd Model M

IIRC, you can just add a Teensy to a Model M.

There is also the DPH controller and xwhatsit's controller for Model Fs.

Hmmm, interesting. That'll give me some reading material. Thanks

[ren9999]

is there anything like this Scorpius 32 that uses a usb connection instead of an AT or PS/2? (need it for a netbook, ill be a passenger on a 2 day road trip, dont have room for a full keyboard, but still need the numeric keypad and arrow keys)

[dorkvader]

is there anything like this Scorpius 32 that uses a usb connection instead of an AT or PS/2? (need it for a netbook, ill be a passenger on a 2 day road trip, dont have room for a full keyboard, but still need the numeric keypad and arrow keys)

there's DIY. I believe metalliqaz made one. bulding half an ergodox is actually quite cheap.

When I'm on the road, I use the arrowcluster on the tenkey a lot, I'm not sure if that's possible with your specific use-case, but let me tell you: numberlock is probably the most pressed key on that thing.

There is also the option of getting a PS/2 to USB adapter for it.

[ren9999]

-snip-

there's DIY. I believe metalliqaz made one. bulding half an ergodox is actually quite cheap.

When I'm on the road, I use the arrowcluster on the tenkey a lot, I'm not sure if that's possible with your specific use-case, but let me tell you: numberlock is probably the most pressed key on that thing.

There is also the option of getting a PS/2 to USB adapter for it.

very true, id gladly build one if i weren't in a time crunch, its almost 2 am on wed and we leave saturday morining., pretty much leaves me to ordering something and getting 1 day shipping

as to a ps/2 to usb adapter, i have one exactly like this, that has one for a keyboard, and one for a mouse, ill be using the mouse connector for my corded Logitech TrackMan

if that setup would still work and still allow me to use the rest of the actual keyboard on the netbook, then my only question is if there is a cheaper alternative to the scorpius while retaining the arrow keys?
Netbook OS: Win XP

[frosty]

1) does the white version of the poker 2 come with thick pbt rgb mods?

2) does the new batches of pokers have the "enjoy your feeling" printed on the spacebar?

[CPTBadAss]

my only question is if there is a cheaper alternative to the scorpius while retaining the arrow keys?
Netbook OS: Win XP

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=141232227196&alt=web

The only thing I could think of is this but I'm not sure what connection it uses nor do I think they have 1 day shipping. Maybe you could buy a numpad like the Filco or Leopold or Keycool one and reprogram it?

1) does the white version of the poker 2 come with thick pbt rgb mods?

2) does the new batches of pokers have the "enjoy your feeling" printed on the spacebar?

Using the following link as a guide:
http://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=924

1) yes
2) no

[caesar]

What is the best tenkeyless keyboard for the price 100-200$?

[CPTBadAss]

What is the best tenkeyless keyboard for the price 100-200$?

There is no "best" keyboard for any price range. If there was, we'd have the same keyboard.

I will suggest that you look into a Ducky Shine 3 and Filco Majestouch. I am also quite happy with my Leopold FC700R. People have also really been enjoying the KUL87 from EliteKeyboards. And I think the CoolerMaster QuickFireRapid has been the go to recommendation for a solid, cheap keyboard for a while.

[caesar]

Ty, but i want to make a perfect choice.
What is the difference between Ducky DK9087G2 Pro TKl & Ducky DK9087 shine3?

[SpAmRaY]

Ty, but i want to make a perfect choice.

You can't do that until you experience a board firsthand.

[CPTBadAss]

Ty, but i want to make a perfect choice.
What is the difference between Ducky DK9087G2 Pro TKl & Ducky DK9087 shine3?

There is no perfect choice. I've been searching for 2 years and there isn't one to be found. There no such thing as a perfect board or a best board. Asking here or anywhere else will not yield an answer for the "best TKL keyboard". There is only boards that you will like and will fit your uses.

I think the difference between those two Duckys is the lighting modes on the LEDs.

[CommonCurt]

What is the difference between Ducky DK9087G2 Pro TKl & Ducky DK9087 shine3?

I have a Ducky DK9087 G2 Pro, and it only has backlighting under the WASD cluster, and the lock keys.

So from what I can see, the difference between the two is backlighting.

[caesar]

What is the difference between Ducky DK9087G2 Pro TKl & Ducky DK9087 shine3?

I have a Ducky DK9087 G2 Pro, and it only has backlighting under the WASD cluster, and the lock keys.

So from what I can see, the difference between the two is backlighting.

Does G2 pro have PBT keycaps?

[CommonCurt]

What is the difference between Ducky DK9087G2 Pro TKl & Ducky DK9087 shine3?

I have a Ducky DK9087 G2 Pro, and it only has backlighting under the WASD cluster, and the lock keys.

So from what I can see, the difference between the two is backlighting.

Does G2 pro have PBT keycaps?

The one that I got didn't come with PBT caps.

[epzy]

What is the difference between Ducky DK9087G2 Pro TKl & Ducky DK9087 shine3?

I have a Ducky DK9087 G2 Pro, and it only has backlighting under the WASD cluster, and the lock keys.

So from what I can see, the difference between the two is backlighting.

Does G2 pro have PBT keycaps?

Some do, some don't.

[cphead]

I have a board where one section of the LEDs are always lit on max brightness, even when I turn the rest off. Any ideas on causes + fixes for this issue? 

[SpAmRaY]

I have a board where one section of the LEDs are always lit on max brightness, even when I turn the rest off. Any ideas on causes + fixes for this issue? 

What board?

[gatorjon]

Are the stock "brilliant white" keycaps on a Unicomp Ultra Classic ABS or PBT? Dyesub?

[CPTBadAss]

Are the stock "brilliant white" keycaps on a Unicomp Ultra Classic ABS or PBT? Dyesub?

PBT Dyesub.

I have a board where one section of the LEDs are always lit on max brightness, even when I turn the rest off. Any ideas on causes + fixes for this issue? 

An idea? Maybe there's a cold joint on your controller? A picture would help and as ray said, a model name would help too.

[CommonCurt]

Does anyone have a link to pictures of the stabilizers Matias uses?

[Vitaly]

How to reduce noise of costar stabilizers? Stabilizer insert and spring make noise when bumping.

[jdcarpe]

How to reduce noise of costar stabilizers? Stabilizer insert and spring make noise when bumping.

Why, grease, of course.

White lithium grease specifically. Applied where the metal bar meets the plastic clip.

[Vitaly]

How to reduce noise of costar stabilizers? Stabilizer insert and spring make noise when bumping.

Why, grease, of course.

White lithium grease specifically. Applied where the metal bar meets the plastic clip.

Thanks. I'll try to buy after work. This noise is annoying. Can I use silicone or graphite grease instead lithium?

[Dreamre]

Does anyone know where I can find some used G80/G81? thick dyesubs for my KMAC? Not sure where I should be looking or what I should search.

Thanks in advance!

[Melvang]

Does anyone know where I can find some used G80/G81? thick dyesubs for my KMAC? Not sure where I should be looking or what I should search.

Thanks in advance!

While I can't give you specifics I can say you will be hunting for 2 or 3 different boards to get all the proper caps that you need.  With the space bar being the most difficult to procure iirc.

Edit:  You might have some luck checking the deskthority wiki.

[BlueBär]

Does anyone know where I can find some used G80/G81? thick dyesubs for my KMAC? Not sure where I should be looking or what I should search.

If you're looking for ANSI layout, good luck, those are almost impossible to find and quite pricey. The model number has to end with SAU if that helps.

While I can't give you specifics I can say you will be hunting for 2 or 3 different boards to get all the proper caps that you need.  With the space bar being the most difficult to procure iirc.

Not sure what you mean by that? If you go WKL there shouldn't be any issue.

[swill]

Anyone here who are using mx clears find that the stabilized keys feel very mushy and the rebound of the key is very laggy?  I have tried a few different things to see if I can improve it, but nothing seems to be working.  The switch seems to be nice and free as well as the stabilizers (cherry).  I didn't lube the stabs a first, but I did when they were not feeling as good as I wanted, but it really has not helped.  On all the alphas the clears feel great, but on the stabilized keys it a brutal.  I have even put stock clear springs back in (I am using 62g springs on the alphas right now) and even stock clear springs feel mushy, slow and laggy for the key to rebound.  ideas???

[Photekq]

While I can't give you specifics I can say you will be hunting for 2 or 3 different boards to get all the proper caps that you need.  With the space bar being the most difficult to procure iirc.

Edit:  You might have some luck checking the deskthority wiki.

Nah you can get all the caps you need for a winkeyless KMAC from one dyesub board. All the caps are compatible, and they're all the right size for the KMAC.

They're extremely hard to find dreamre, so expect to be looking for a long time (I've been looking 8 months for a BNIB board). You're looking for the following for regular ANSI :

G81/G80-3XXXSXU
G81/G80-1XXXSXU
G81/G80-3XXXSXXUS

e.g G81-3100SAU, G81-3116SDU, G81-3100SDBUS

[BlueBär]

Anyone here who are using mx clears find that the stabilized keys feel very mushy and the rebound of the key is very laggy?  I have tried a few different things to see if I can improve it, but nothing seems to be working.  The switch seems to be nice and free as well as the stabilizers (cherry).  I didn't lube the stabs a first, but I did when they were not feeling as good as I wanted, but it really has not helped.  On all the alphas the clears feel great, but on the stabilized keys it a brutal.  I have even put stock clear springs back in (I am using 62g springs on the alphas right now) and even stock clear springs feel mushy, slow and laggy for the key to rebound.  ideas???

Are you using lubed Ergo Clears? Did you clip your stabilizers?

[CPTBadAss]

Anyone here who are using mx clears find that the stabilized keys feel very mushy and the rebound of the key is very laggy?  I have tried a few different things to see if I can improve it, but nothing seems to be working.  The switch seems to be nice and free as well as the stabilizers (cherry).  I didn't lube the stabs a first, but I did when they were not feeling as good as I wanted, but it really has not helped.  On all the alphas the clears feel great, but on the stabilized keys it a brutal.  I have even put stock clear springs back in (I am using 62g springs on the alphas right now) and even stock clear springs feel mushy, slow and laggy for the key to rebound.  ideas???

Are you sure everything in the switch and stabilizers are seated right? Did you try reseat the caps or using a different 62g spring? Could have a spring that didn't meet spec. Or maybe the stem was molded oddly and it's catching the cap somehow?

[Melvang]

While I can't give you specifics I can say you will be hunting for 2 or 3 different boards to get all the proper caps that you need.  With the space bar being the most difficult to procure iirc.

Edit:  You might have some luck checking the deskthority wiki.

Nah you can get all the caps you need for a winkeyless KMAC from one dyesub board. All the caps are compatible, and they're all the right size for the KMAC.

They're extremely hard to find dreamre, so expect to be looking for a long time (I've been looking 8 months for a BNIB board). You're looking for the following for regular ANSI :

G81/G80-3XXXSXU
G81/G80-1XXXSXU
G81/G80-3XXXSXXUS

e.g G81-3100SAU, G81-3116SDU, G81-3100SDBUS

I stand corrected.  I thought the spacebar in PBT was the tough one to locate and for some reason I thought the capslock stem was off center on the majority of boards that was PBT?

[BlueBär]

I stand corrected.  I thought the spacebar in PBT was the tough one to locate and for some reason I thought the capslock stem was off center on the majority of boards that was PBT?

Not sure about the spacebar, but a KMAC is compatible with an offcenter Caps Lock. It's also not related to PBT or anything, it's just a standard stepped Caps Lock.

[Melvang]

I stand corrected.  I thought the spacebar in PBT was the tough one to locate and for some reason I thought the capslock stem was off center on the majority of boards that was PBT?

Not sure about the spacebar, but a KMAC is compatible with an offcenter Caps Lock.

I see says the blind man as he spits into the wind and says "It's all coming back to me now."

[Photekq]

Those dyesub boards come with a 7x PBT spacebar. They have all the keys you need for a winkeyless, stepped-capslock KMAC.

[swill]

Anyone here who are using mx clears find that the stabilized keys feel very mushy and the rebound of the key is very laggy?  I have tried a few different things to see if I can improve it, but nothing seems to be working.  The switch seems to be nice and free as well as the stabilizers (cherry).  I didn't lube the stabs a first, but I did when they were not feeling as good as I wanted, but it really has not helped.  On all the alphas the clears feel great, but on the stabilized keys it a brutal.  I have even put stock clear springs back in (I am using 62g springs on the alphas right now) and even stock clear springs feel mushy, slow and laggy for the key to rebound.  ideas???

Are you using lubed Ergo Clears? Did you clip your stabilizers?

Yes and Yes...

[swill]

Anyone here who are using mx clears find that the stabilized keys feel very mushy and the rebound of the key is very laggy?  I have tried a few different things to see if I can improve it, but nothing seems to be working.  The switch seems to be nice and free as well as the stabilizers (cherry).  I didn't lube the stabs a first, but I did when they were not feeling as good as I wanted, but it really has not helped.  On all the alphas the clears feel great, but on the stabilized keys it a brutal.  I have even put stock clear springs back in (I am using 62g springs on the alphas right now) and even stock clear springs feel mushy, slow and laggy for the key to rebound.  ideas???

Are you sure everything in the switch and stabilizers are seated right? Did you try reseat the caps or using a different 62g spring? Could have a spring that didn't meet spec. Or maybe the stem was molded oddly and it's catching the cap somehow?

Ya I have have basically done this.  I have actually put back the stock clear springs because they are heavier so they at least rebound the key consistently enough that the keyboard is usable, but it feels like crap cause it is still mushing and sad feeling.  It is not just the space bar though.  Most of the stabilized keys feel pretty odd.  I did not have this issue on the last board I built, so something must be a bit funky with either the stabilizers or something on this board... 

[CPTBadAss]

Ya I have have basically done this.  I have actually put back the stock clear springs because they are heavier so they at least rebound the key consistently enough that the keyboard is usable, but it feels like crap cause it is still mushing and sad feeling.  It is not just the space bar though.  Most of the stabilized keys feel pretty odd.  I did not have this issue on the last board I built, so something must be a bit funky with either the stabilizers or something on this board...

Do you have another set of stabilizers you can swap in? Test those out and then go from there?

[swill]

Ya I have have basically done this.  I have actually put back the stock clear springs because they are heavier so they at least rebound the key consistently enough that the keyboard is usable, but it feels like crap cause it is still mushing and sad feeling.  It is not just the space bar though.  Most of the stabilized keys feel pretty odd.  I did not have this issue on the last board I built, so something must be a bit funky with either the stabilizers or something on this board...

Do you have another set of stabilizers you can swap in? Test those out and then go from there?

Yes, I will do that tonight after work.  I might change the keycaps too.  It might be something like the spacing on these keycaps are pulling or pushing the stabilizers against one side of the stabilizer housing.  They are PBT after all...  I will try putting my Penumbra set on this board and see if it changes anything.  Thanks for the ideas...

[CPTBadAss]

Yes, I will do that tonight after work.  I might change the keycaps too.  It might be something like the spacing on these keycaps are pulling or pushing the stabilizers against one side of the stabilizer housing.  They are PBT after all...  I will try putting my Penumbra set on this board and see if it changes anything.  Thanks for the ideas...

Sorry there was no easy fix. Let us know how it goes.

[jdcarpe]

Ya I have have basically done this.  I have actually put back the stock clear springs because they are heavier so they at least rebound the key consistently enough that the keyboard is usable, but it feels like crap cause it is still mushing and sad feeling.  It is not just the space bar though.  Most of the stabilized keys feel pretty odd.  I did not have this issue on the last board I built, so something must be a bit funky with either the stabilizers or something on this board...

Do you have another set of stabilizers you can swap in? Test those out and then go from there?

Yes, I will do that tonight after work.  I might change the keycaps too.  It might be something like the spacing on these keycaps are pulling or pushing the stabilizers against one side of the stabilizer housing.  They are PBT after all...  I will try putting my Penumbra set on this board and see if it changes anything.  Thanks for the ideas...

You're on the right track. Usually it has to do with friction somewhere.

[swill]

Yes, I will do that tonight after work.  I might change the keycaps too.  It might be something like the spacing on these keycaps are pulling or pushing the stabilizers against one side of the stabilizer housing.  They are PBT after all...  I will try putting my Penumbra set on this board and see if it changes anything.  Thanks for the ideas...

Sorry there was no easy fix. Let us know how it goes.

Thanks for the help JD and CPT.  I was able to fix the problem.  The stabilizer wires that I was using was about 1.6mm thick.  I switched the stabilizer wire to one that was only 1.45mm thick and everything is buttery now.  Apparently the tolerance on the spacing on the PCB is so tight that the 1.6mm wire didn't give enough play for the stabilizer to move freely in the housing. I couldn't really tell when I was just playing with them with my hands, but once the keycaps on it was very obvious.  Something to keep in mind anyway...

[CPTBadAss]

Thanks for the help JD and CPT.  I was able to fix the problem.  The stabilizer wires that I was using was about 1.6mm thick.  I switched the stabilizer wire to one that was only 1.45mm thick and everything is buttery now. 

Hooray! I love happy endings

[nubbinator]

Hooray! I love happy endings

Hue hue hue

[BlueBär]

Thanks for the help JD and CPT.  I was able to fix the problem.  The stabilizer wires that I was using was about 1.6mm thick.  I switched the stabilizer wire to one that was only 1.45mm thick and everything is buttery now.  Apparently the tolerance on the spacing on the PCB is so tight that the 1.6mm wire didn't give enough play for the stabilizer to move freely in the housing. I couldn't really tell when I was just playing with them with my hands, but once the keycaps on it was very obvious.  Something to keep in mind anyway...

Weird, doesn't Cherry's spec say 1.6mm? Glad that it works now.