Author Topic: Check your DSA SP caps before using. (Read 8833 times)

Binge · « **on:** Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:02:57 »

So recently I got out my DSA retro set to outfit a recently built ergodox. I'm not very thrilled with the results which were a lot of broken switches. If you buy DSA caps from SP or have any want to buy them from SP make sure you check the bases.

The 2 caps on the left came off my board without any problem.

The 2 caps on the right took(destroyed) the entire switch when the cap was removed.. I tried to go at it gently after I noticed a pattern, but unfortunately I could only get the stems out of the keycaps with plyers.

The pattern here is the bases of the caps. If they have 4 points and some extra cut away the cap then they are good, but a simple cross shape will destroy your switches. You can test it if you want on some crappy ones, but you might not want to completely ruin any spares you might have lying around.

kenmai9 · « **Reply #1 on:** Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:06:03 »

I recently bought their DSA PBT blank caps, in all black. The larger caps (mods) had holes that were too large for my stabilizer nubs, so my space bar and right shift and others are a little wonky. Any suggestions besides super glue?

Binge · « **Reply #2 on:** Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:11:08 »

I'm at a loss brother. Really have no idea why 1/2 of my caps are like this and the other half aren't. Even my relendables (which should all be the same mold) have this defect in about half of the keys.

gnubag · « **Reply #3 on:** Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:20:06 »

Quote from: kenmai9 on Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:06:03

I recently bought their DSA PBT blank caps, in all black. The larger caps (mods) had holes that were too large for my stabilizer nubs, so my space bar and right shift and others are a little wonky. Any suggestions besides super glue?

put some paper/tape over the stabs.

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #4 on:** Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:25:04 »

Which are the 'bad' ones in the picture?

kenmai9 · « **Reply #5 on:** Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:27:56 »

Quote from: gnubag on Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:20:06

Quote from: kenmai9 on Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:06:03
I recently bought their DSA PBT blank caps, in all black. The larger caps (mods) had holes that were too large for my stabilizer nubs, so my space bar and right shift and others are a little wonky. Any suggestions besides super glue?

put some paper/tape over the stabs.

Ohh thanks gnubag!

linziyi · « **Reply #6 on:** Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:29:02 »

How does that destroy the switch?

Leslieann · « **Reply #7 on:** Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:36:09 »

Paper or Saran Wrap will shim the caps that are too loose.

As for why some are tight and some are not... I see this on my 3d printer, how fast the plastic cools can effect how much shrinkage there is. On an open printer, with no enclosure, simply opening a window or door can make visible changes in the object as some layers will shrink more than others. The same can happen by changing the temp they are molded at, some of my ABS needs 227c, another prefers 119c, not only can different manufacturers effect this, coloring can too. My bet is that they were done at different times, and a temp was set wrong.

Looking closer at the caps, it looks like they were cooled at a different rate, or on a different mold.

smknjoe · « **Reply #8 on:** Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:38:13 »

Quote from: linziyi on Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:29:02

How does that destroy the switch?

The stem was ripped out of the switch. The only way to remove the stems without damaging the switch is to disassemble the switch, not rip it out through the top.

rowdy · « **Reply #9 on:** Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:38:14 »

Quote from: kenmai9 on Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:27:56

Quote from: gnubag on Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:20:06
Quote from: kenmai9 on Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:06:03
I recently bought their DSA PBT blank caps, in all black. The larger caps (mods) had holes that were too large for my stabilizer nubs, so my space bar and right shift and others are a little wonky. Any suggestions besides super glue?

put some paper/tape over the stabs.

Ohh thanks gnubag!

Or a small square of plastic, say from a plastic lunch bag (I have used that to good effect).

Or even a small piece of teflon tape.

Binge · « **Reply #10 on:** Sun, 14 July 2013, 21:30:17 »

Quote from: kenmai9 on Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:27:56

Quote from: gnubag on Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:20:06
Quote from: kenmai9 on Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:06:03
I recently bought their DSA PBT blank caps, in all black. The larger caps (mods) had holes that were too large for my stabilizer nubs, so my space bar and right shift and others are a little wonky. Any suggestions besides super glue?

put some paper/tape over the stabs.

Ohh thanks gnubag!

the caps on the right.

Photoelectric · « **Reply #11 on:** Sun, 14 July 2013, 21:43:27 »

Quote from: kenmai9 on Sun, 14 July 2013, 19:06:03

I recently bought their DSA PBT blank caps, in all black. The larger caps (mods) had holes that were too large for my stabilizer nubs, so my space bar and right shift and others are a little wonky. Any suggestions besides super glue?

Teflon tape has been best in my experience (= pipe tape, you can get it from a hardware store plumbing department for a couple of dollars).

elton5354 · « **Reply #12 on:** Sun, 14 July 2013, 23:54:07 »

Same thing happened to me with the switch coming out. Not only that the stem on the cap broke off...

Sifo · « **Reply #13 on:** Mon, 15 July 2013, 12:41:28 »

Yo that's messed up.

gnubag · « **Reply #14 on:** Mon, 15 July 2013, 12:51:12 »

well, it's also because the stems are crazy tight on all the caps (rotation thingy)

Dubsgalore · « **Reply #15 on:** Mon, 15 July 2013, 12:55:58 »

Pretty sure in the clear stem thread someone said that PBT DSA SP caps are the tightest...looks like it's true

sorry to hear m8

Binge · « **Reply #16 on:** Mon, 15 July 2013, 13:42:28 »

these are ABS doubleshots... look at the stems, some have relief while the others do not.

::EDIT:: added more to picture in first post.

vivalarevolución · « **Reply #17 on:** Mon, 15 July 2013, 19:43:27 »

I had this same problem. In order to not destroy the switch, I had to hold the stem with a long, thin object, like a small screw driver, and push down on the switch while I pulled up on the keycap.

Thimplum · « **Reply #18 on:** Mon, 15 July 2013, 19:52:42 »

OUCH!

reiuorw · « **Reply #19 on:** Mon, 15 July 2013, 20:46:07 »

I ordered PBT white blank set from SP, I should check it when I receive it.

MOZ · « **Reply #20 on:** Mon, 15 July 2013, 21:05:55 »

Broken switches ouch. I broke a switch on my Ducky 5mins from getting it from the mailman,

Photoelectric · « **Reply #21 on:** Mon, 15 July 2013, 21:51:54 »

Ducky caps are annoying like that too--at least the Shine ones. Had the worst time getting it off new MX Clears (well a test switch that I specifically tried the cap on to see the fit). Clears + Ducky Shine caps = extra tough to get off.

MOZ · « **Reply #22 on:** Mon, 15 July 2013, 22:01:05 »

LOL. Mine was other way round. I was trying a custom cap which I had received the day before (Didn't get time to try it on any other keyboard). So as soon as I opened the Ducky Zero, I tried the keycap. It fit easily but when removing it, it pulled the blue stem as well as the white part from my Cherry MX Blue.

funkymeeba · « **Reply #23 on:** Tue, 16 July 2013, 11:34:01 »

I managed to get some of the "bad" caps off of MX Clears with no damage, but for anyone else who wishes to try... Go very slowly with this!

MOZ · « **Reply #24 on:** Tue, 16 July 2013, 12:17:44 »

I don't know if this works but how about lubing the outside of the stems on the switch before putting these caps on?

jingil · « **Reply #25 on:** Thu, 18 July 2013, 17:38:10 »

I will check it. Thanks!

reiuorw · « **Reply #26 on:** Sat, 20 July 2013, 22:33:53 »

oh, after read this thread, I found some of my DSA keycaps have same bad stems.

then, couldn't I use them? or is there any way to prevent pulling up sliders together when I remove them from keyboard?

funkymeeba · « **Reply #27 on:** Sat, 20 July 2013, 23:05:01 »

They can absolutely be removed. Just be VERY CAREFUL when doing it. Patience is extremely valuable.

Hamblet · « **Reply #28 on:** Sun, 21 July 2013, 00:27:31 »

Folks !!

Never worry about it.
I have a good news for the poor people here.
It is a way old but works fine, and have never seen any finer design than this one.

Here comes the most safest keytop remover.
Come and try it.

Main Idea

How to work

Blueprints

Details

Proto

The Finals

MOZ · « **Reply #29 on:** Sun, 21 July 2013, 00:41:26 »

Those are from rispter's guide. Nothing new.

Photoelectric · « **Reply #30 on:** Sun, 21 July 2013, 00:45:46 »

Quote from: Hamblet on Sun, 21 July 2013, 00:27:31

Folks !!

Never worry about it.
I have a good news for the poor people here.
It is a way old but works fine, and have never seen any finer design than this one.

Here comes the most safest keytop remover.
Come and try it.

Main Idea
(Attachment Link)

How to work
(Attachment Link)

Blueprints
(Attachment Link)

Details
(Attachment Link)

Proto
(Attachment Link)

The Finals
(Attachment Link)

You should at least credit the original...

Hamblet · « **Reply #31 on:** Sun, 21 July 2013, 01:33:35 »

What's that ? R's guide ?
Sorry, I know nothing about the guide.
I do not have any kind of recent news (i.e. couple of years).

I do not care about the guide says.
The only thing I know clearly is, the idea is MINE from the very first time. And, Of course the photos are all mine too.

I do not care about you understand the idea or not, and you are going to use it or not.
The only thing I know clearly is, If you do not use it you will ruin your switches for sure.

Hamblet · « **Reply #32 on:** Sun, 21 July 2013, 01:38:36 »

Quote

You should at least credit the original...

You guys do not know ABC.

The link above are just silly one. Most of the contents are stollen, and (s)he does not understand it at all.
Idiot.

rao2100 · « **Reply #33 on:** Sun, 21 July 2013, 02:31:40 »

I think Hamblet's design is to use it as a lever. Meaning hold down the switch while pushing the cap up like a lever.

Correct me if I am wrong Hamblet. Thanks.

Hamblet · « **Reply #34 on:** Sun, 21 July 2013, 04:01:54 »

Quote from: rao2100 on Sun, 21 July 2013, 02:31:40

I think Hamblet's design is to use it as a lever. Meaning hold down the switch while pushing the cap up like a lever.

Correct me if I am wrong Hamblet. Thanks.

You are absolutely right, clever girl !!!

It is safe because you will not see the bare stomach (slider and spring) of your lovely switches out of the blue.
It is safe because you will not scratch the face of your tender keytops (think about the stupid metallic pullers. The worst is Topre's).
It is safe because you will not break the stem of keytops, especially the weakest one of the Alps'.

It is cheap, tiny and looking good.
It is nice, isn't it ?

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #35 on:** Mon, 22 July 2013, 08:56:33 »

Quote from: mohitgarg on Sun, 21 July 2013, 00:41:26

Those are from rispter's guide. Nothing new.

Quote from: Photoelectric on Sun, 21 July 2013, 00:45:46

Quote from: Hamblet on Sun, 21 July 2013, 00:27:31
Folks !!

Never worry about it.
I have a good news for the poor people here.
It is a way old but works fine, and have never seen any finer design than this one.

Here comes the most safest keytop remover.
Come and try it.

Main Idea
(Attachment Link)

How to work
(Attachment Link)

Blueprints
(Attachment Link)

Details
(Attachment Link)

Proto
(Attachment Link)

The Finals
(Attachment Link)

You should at least credit the original...

If you guys look Ripster gives credit to Hamblet!!

And Hamblet, that is really cool would you be interested in selling a couple sets? I'm building a key cap keychain and key cap puller collection.

Hamblet · « **Reply #36 on:** Mon, 22 July 2013, 18:47:39 »

Basically, I am not intending to sell it. I just made a unique design, opened it for the purpose of eliminating the uneasiness of harvesting keytops.

If you want to have it, buy a box of paper clip at stationery. Unbend it and bend it again with your will. That's it. Easy.

Good Luck my friend.

gnubag · « **Reply #37 on:** Mon, 22 July 2013, 19:43:36 »

Quote

The DSA tooling was designed for ABS not PBT. PBT shrinks more so, depending on the molding conditions, the mount could be slightly smaller and fit more tightly on a key switch. The stems of key switches can also vary slightly. The right combination can result in a very tight fit.

-SP

that is what I got told from SP when I asked about my PBT blank set.

reiuorw · « **Reply #38 on:** Mon, 22 July 2013, 22:14:49 »

Quote from: gnubag on Mon, 22 July 2013, 19:43:36

Quote
The DSA tooling was designed for ABS not PBT. PBT shrinks more so, depending on the molding conditions, the mount could be slightly smaller and fit more tightly on a key switch. The stems of key switches can also vary slightly. The right combination can result in a very tight fit.
-SP

that is what I got told from SP when I asked about my PBT blank set.

but DSA retro set is ABS, isn't it?

Photoelectric · « **Reply #39 on:** Mon, 22 July 2013, 22:19:26 »

It is, but SP also makes blank DSA-profile PBT caps.

smknjoe · « **Reply #40 on:** Mon, 22 July 2013, 22:42:09 »

All of Ripster's stuff used to be here before he was banned and the server started going off-line every few hours. He was quite the prolific poster here at GH. He does credit all of the sources in your link - including Hamblet.

Pretty cool design Hamblet!

Quote from: Photoelectric on Sun, 21 July 2013, 00:45:46

Quote from: Hamblet on Sun, 21 July 2013, 00:27:31
Folks !!

Never worry about it.
I have a good news for the poor people here.
It is a way old but works fine, and have never seen any finer design than this one.

Here comes the most safest keytop remover.
Come and try it.

Main Idea
(Attachment Link)

How to work
(Attachment Link)

Blueprints
(Attachment Link)

Details
(Attachment Link)

Proto
(Attachment Link)

The Finals
(Attachment Link)

You should at least credit the original...
[/quote

funkymeeba · « **Reply #41 on:** Mon, 22 July 2013, 22:43:30 »

I have yet to find any PBT DSA caps that don't fit right, and I have over 1,250 of them.

Photoelectric · « **Reply #42 on:** Mon, 22 July 2013, 22:44:58 »

My bad about the Ripster link and proper credit!

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #43 on:** Mon, 22 July 2013, 22:49:34 »

Quote from: funkymeeba on Mon, 22 July 2013, 22:43:30

I have yet to find any PBT DSA caps that don't fit right, and I have over 1,250 of them.

Maybe your caps are just funky

Hamblet · « **Reply #44 on:** Mon, 22 July 2013, 22:55:19 »

Quote from: Photoelectric on Mon, 22 July 2013, 22:44:58

My bad about the Ripster link and proper credit!

Says, Mr. R is not here anymore. I do not know why, and (sorry) I am not interested in that.
One thing I know is, He is a not so bad guy.
I got no bad feelings about him.

funkymeeba · « **Reply #45 on:** Mon, 22 July 2013, 23:03:49 »

Quote from: SpAmRaY on Mon, 22 July 2013, 22:49:34

Maybe your caps are just funky

I can always get some of them prepped in a color you like. PM me! $28 + shipping. Beware: I have found no blue dyes that work. Purple is my favorite so far.

SeriouSSpotS · « **Reply #46 on:** Tue, 23 July 2013, 11:54:34 »

Still handy though

Rule16 · « **Reply #47 on:** Tue, 23 July 2013, 17:50:25 »

Quote from: smknjoe on Mon, 22 July 2013, 22:42:09

All of Ripster's stuff used to be here before he was banned

Ripster got banned? What for?

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #48 on:** Wed, 24 July 2013, 09:14:16 »

Quote from: Rule16 on Tue, 23 July 2013, 17:50:25

Quote from: smknjoe on Mon, 22 July 2013, 22:42:09
All of Ripster's stuff used to be here before he was banned
Ripster got banned? What for?

megaxpop · « **Reply #49 on:** Wed, 24 July 2013, 09:19:53 »

i'm very lucky cuz my DA retro is all good!

News:

Author Topic: Check your DSA SP caps before using. (Read 8833 times)