Custom Keyboard Advice

[Kit-Bar]

Hey guys! I have been lurking on here mostly but I have really been thinking of getting a custom Keyboard and putting it together.
This group buy
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50579.0
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50580.0
has me really interested.

As a person who has read and gotten a good understanding of what this takes to make one of these, I still feel like I am not sure if I should build one at this point. Is it worthwhile to build one? Money is not really a problem, but I like acrylic cases because I think they look fantastic.

Could someone enlighten me to make sure I have a good idea of what it takes to make one of these?

obviously I need a solder and the sod, cherry mx actuators, resistors and such (not really sure of what to get here, I am in mechanical engineering but I really did not pay attention in my circuits class), not sure what else.

This pcb comes with LEDs from my understanding? Can someone explain to me what this will involve if I were to go ahead with this? any advice is great. I really would love to make one of these things but it seems kinda like a large investment and I am not sure if I am gonna mess it up...

Also, I really like the TKL model. And what do you guys suggest with the aluminum cases vrs acrylic vrs poly? Is this a good purchase and project for a noobie like me or should i wait for a different group buy?

[Puddsy]

PCB (you get this from that GB)

SMDs/Diodes (presoldered in that GB)

Switches (source these yourself, you'll have to solder them too)

Case (I think you can get this from that GB for $15/35)

Microcontroller (Teensy 2.0 is the popular one)

If I forget something someone will correct me.

[AKmalamute]

Case (I think you can get this from that GB for $15/35)

Nope! That's for the plate. Plate-less case is $70, or $80-ish for larger cases like the TKL or full-sized thing.

Still probably worth it, and I'll consider the polycarbonate when it comes out ... but I'm in another GB for the vortex aluminum case too.

[Kit-Bar]

Is the aluminum worth it? What is the difference with acrylic vrs poly? I assume this is generally straightforward to put together

So we need the teensy controller still? 

[PepperPanda]

If you go with that groupbuy you don't need a teensy. Already comes with a controller presoldered.

[Puddsy]

If you go with that groupbuy you don't need a teensy. Already comes with a controller presoldered.

I have now become very interested in that GB.

[Kit-Bar]

Like my main question is this
"If you were to advise a person new to custom keyboards, would you advise them that this is an excellent choice"

[Puddsy]

Like my main question is this
"If you were to advise a person new to custom keyboards, would you advise them that this is an excellent choice"

If you have prior knowledge of soldering, yes.

Otherwise, yes.

[Kit-Bar]

So you think it is not terribly difficult? I mean most of you probably started off similarly 

[Puddsy]

So you think it is not terribly difficult? I mean most of you probably started off similarly

I've never done it, but one of the inept freshmen built himself a KMAC, so it can't be that hard.

[AKmalamute]

I have never soldered anything before, and only recently desoldered anything.
It does look pretty simple, at least in theory. Apply heat to melt the metal, but not melt the plastic around it.

Easy, right?
Should be fine, really. It's a path for the do-it-yourselfer in you but honestly it looks like a lot of fun. Mostly because I like to be that much in control of my keyboard ... and everything else.

[Puddsy]

I have never soldered anything before, and only recently desoldered anything.
It does look pretty simple, at least in theory. Apply heat to melt the metal, but not melt the plastic around it.

Easy, right?
Should be fine, really. It's a path for the do-it-yourselfer in you but honestly it looks like a lot of fun. Mostly because I like to be that much in control of my keyboard ... and everything else.

At least practice on a board from radioshack first. The ones with a bunch of holes in them and no electronic significance.

I guess they're for DIY projects.

[PepperPanda]

You also need stabilizers and keycaps. For the space bar stabilizer you might have to bend the wire yourself or buy it from someone/use it from another board. (NOTE: This is only if you are going to use cherry stabilizers. Costar stabilizers for all modifiers can be bought off WASDA's website)

From what I understand that groupbuy doesn't have LEDs but you can easily buy and solder them on.

The soldering part shouldn't be that hard seeing how they are doing all the SMD soldering for you. But make sure you practice beforehand.

[Kit-Bar]

Okay this seems like great advice! Is there any preference for a solder/ best solder iron to buy?

[kolonelkadat]

get  a proper soldering station like a hakko fx 888d. It's worth it. Cheap pen irons wont to anything but be a pita and ruin boards.

use solder no thicker than 0.032 inches (22 gauge).  Thinner solder is always better than thicker solder. If you use thick solder you will end up putting too much and make solder bridges and a mess.

Dont bother with lead free solder. Its probably more trouble than its worth for a first timer. I use 63/37 almost exclusively. thats 63 parts Sn (tin) and 37 parts Pb (lead). 60/40 is more or less the same.

eta:
I typically use "no clean" solder. If you use RA core, Acid core, or rosin core solder you will need to clean the board after to prevent it from corroding.

eta2:
I really only suggest using rosin core or noclean solder.