Hi guys! I'm back from the dead

Got some photos and a video for you - I'm uploading it right now, and I'll process pictures later today. So, let's explain it all a little

1) Yeah, it's "tactile" not "tactical" Daniel

You're a purist, are you? Well, it's about two weeks I even know the meaning of the word, so don't be too picky on me!

2) The switch is not linear of course - it's expotential but it's possible to bottom out without any problem.
3) Your concept tooki is the ideal solution - you could create an universal modular version - with interchangeable caps and fine-tuned switches. You could choose with software if you want tacticle/linear/or whatever switch, it's power, etc. That would be the ultimate solution!
4) Ok, so back to my switch... One magnet sits on the top of the membrane "contact", the other can be clearly visible inside the cap. The cap levitates above the membrane. When the key is pressed, the expotential force between the magnets works pretty much like a standard rubber dome - it pushes the membrane sheets together and you got an actuation.
5) You don't have to bottom out the switch. You can assemble it in such way, that it will actuate after traveling about 1mm! I had an excelent shot of it today and lost it somewhere

(pressing scroll lock and observing as LED goes on and off).
6) This idea is a pain in the ass to implement. The devil's in the detail. The trick is you have to choose the right distance between the magnets - and it all depends on their strenght. I had no choice, as I just picked the cheapest square neodynium magnets that were available online - so that leaves me only one option - tweaking the distance. The bottom magnet is just lying flat on the membrane - nothing to do here. And here's a problem - you have to choose the right distance for a magnet that is installed inside the slider. If you mount it to low, you'll have to use extreme force to press it. The switch feels VERY stiff then. And if you mount it too high inside the slider, it won't actuate.
I've used... nails as magnet "spacers" in the sliders. They were all 13mm, but unfortunately distances vary greatly inside the caps... So some keys feel stiff, some feel a little like cherry REDs. In some of them I got very lucky, and they feel as something I've never felt before - just awesome! I think that's probably the cheapest way to make yourself a gaming board!
7) Why KME Turbo Trak? It's a really ****ty board. But it's a prototype to see if this works AT ALL. It's just a proof that it can be done, and those square magnets fit KME's sliders perfectly. It's also my point, that you can take total crap and change it into something of a value.
8 ) I wouldn't recommend fitting magnets inside the mechanical switch. You don't have much option in terms of tweaking the distance, so you have to use magnets with specific strenght to achieve your "feeling" target. Also, I don't think that magnets with radius matching cherry spring would be sufficent to create enough maglev force.
9) Next time I'll pick round magnets. For the bottom (membrane mounting) you should pick magnets with 1mm thickness (matching more or less rubber dome thickness) and radius that matches "membrane contact" radius, or even 1mm smaller ones. For the slider you should pick round magnets that match slider's radius (even if it's a square one). SQUARE MAGNETS SUCKS and require much precision to mount them in the right spot on the membrane.
10) I think it's possible to change any rubber dome into a maglev board. I'll try to mod some of them (including the crappiest "flatbeds" I own) to prove my point

Enjoy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JBGiA6O4RgM