Building a TKL MX Clear Board

[TBone]

So I was pretty set on getting a CM QFR due to its low cost and build quality, but after testing Clears, I definitely want a keyboard with them.

Right now I'm typing with MX Browns, and while they are very nice, I want something that is more tactile. I think Clears are a little stiff so I may need a recommendation for where to get lighter springs to make some Ergo Clears.

However, is my cheapest bet going with a QFR as a donor board? Or should I build a kit board from scratch? Or is there a way to get something in the TKL format that doesn't have switches installed yet?
Also would I be able to sell some of those switches here to make some money back? Any recommendation on which switch is sought after for that? I'd really give them away if someone paid for postage...

Also I would get something smaller than TKL if all the keys were standard sizes (I'm planning on putting thick Cherry PBT blanks from Ivan's GB on this one ).

Thanks guys, this place is awesome...I'm too addicted and should be studying...I have an exam in 10 hours... 

[Pacifist]

phantom

[Linkbane]

Gotta love the Pacifist post-count increasers.
QFR as donor and buying clears from mechanicalkeyboards.com is probably your best bet if you want to mod. The phantom is definitely going to be more expensive, if fancier. It's rare to get a modern Clear board, as most are either always sold out (CODE), or old Cherry boards.

Actually, I also recommend you take a look at keyboardwow and banggood, as both should have stock Cherry boards from Keycool and may be cheaper, but just be advised that shipping is from China and may be a few weeks, although free from the latter.

[n0rvig]

Okay, my suggestions aren't the cheapest.


Fully assembled:
WASD V2 or CODE - http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/code-keyboard/code-87-key-mechanical-keyboard.html

DIY:
GON's nerd pcb w/ a case - http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/pcbs/60-nerd-tkl-by-gon.html
SPRIT's groupbuy (i might be confused but) - http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=50580.0

[SonOfSonOfSpock]

I recommend checking with WASD keyboards and seeing when they will get stock of the Code keyboards next. If you get your timing lucky that'd be the easiest route. I thought I remember one of their emails saying they might be getting another shipment, but I might be mistaking that for the one that just sold out.

[TBone]

Gotta love the Pacifist post-count increasers.
QFR as donor and buying clears from mechanicalkeyboards.com is probably your best bet if you want to mod. The phantom is definitely going to be more expensive, if fancier. It's rare to get a modern Clear board, as most are either always sold out (CODE), or old Cherry boards.

Actually, I also recommend you take a look at keyboardwow and banggood, as both should have stock Cherry boards from Keycool and may be cheaper, but just be advised that shipping is from China and may be a few weeks, although free from the latter.

Haha don't hurt me!! Yes I'm actually on here so much I should be posting more! AHHH help me...

But I think that sounds more up my alley. I know I want to go with Costar stabilizers. My Cherry ones now are nice, but I always wonder if I'm missing something when the larger keys feel mushy bottoming out.
Does the Keycool 87 have costar stabilizers? I kind of want to stay away from LED's too. They're nice and all, but just seem a little gimicky to me. I want to go with something more subtle.

I also plan on painting the case either white, red, or green - so the QFR makes sense for that.

[Pacifist]

confused here

do you want to built it yourself or buy it?

if buy, $120 shipped for the clears kc87 from bg and has costar

also v2 or code whenever those restock

diy

phantom is probally the best

[TBone]

confused here

do you want to built it yourself or buy it?

if buy, $120 shipped for the clears kc87 from bg and has costar

also v2 or code whenever those restock

diy

phantom is probally the best

Sorry, I would go with either, but now that I see that Keycool 87, that seems like my best bet.

Any thoughts on that board? From what I'm looking at, it's exactly what I want!  Thanks guys you rock!

[TBone]

Sorry I see the confusion. I was going to build it if I couldn't buy it in the configuration I wanted (TKL, Costar, non-backlit, Clears).

[Linkbane]

Thanks for  the reply, Pacifist. Redeemed. Keycool isn't thought of as highly as Ducky or Fioco, but it's kinda of like a souped-up QFR; great value, good construction and also usually with nice PBT caps (cough better than Filco cough).

[Reaceskoda]

I think that the KC87 is a good option, though you may want to wait for the CODE to come back in stock for the better build quality, though it may be more expensive

As for DIY i think that either a phantom or sprit will be your best bet. In sprit's group buy you can choose your switches, stabs, case and even springs. He'll also do assembly for an extra price which makes it seem like a better option, getting everything from one place.

[TBone]

Thanks for  the reply, Pacifist. Redeemed. Keycool isn't thought of as highly as Ducky or Fioco, but it's kinda of like a souped-up QFR; great value, good construction and also usually with nice PBT caps (cough better than Filco cough).

No problem! 

I'm seeing that looking it up, but I just realized they are sold out and have been for a while 

Seems like I'll probably play the waiting game, maybe CM will come out with a clear board by then, since I've heard rumors.
Or I'll just get tired and go the QFR and solder route when I get the time. Need to get an soldering iron though.

Any good guides on soldering/disassembling the QFR?

[Linkbane]

CODE isn't known for its quality. Maybe on par with Keycool at best, it's certainly not Ducky level quality, and it's really expensive, never in stock, and the key caps are still thin ABS. The CODE really has nothing on the Keycool besides the font and advertising. TS, going to sleep but hopefully the KC is an option you're considering, best of luck finding a good Clear board.

Oh, reply. I think that CM representatives were saying that adding any more switches would be very difficult, so I doubt there'll be any progress there. Most guides should have QFR guides though, as they're so ubiquitous.

[lightsout714]

CODE isn't known for its quality. Maybe on par with Keycool at best, it's certainly not Ducky level quality, and it's really expensive, never in stock, and the key caps are still thin ABS. The CODE really has nothing on the Keycool besides the font and advertising. TS, going to sleep but hopefully the KC is an option you're considering, best of luck finding a good Clear board.

Oh, reply. I think that CM representatives were saying that adding any more switches would be very difficult, so I doubt there'll be any progress there. Most guides should have QFR guides though, as they're so ubiquitous.

Really that sucks. WASD v1 was right up there with filco build quality wise.

[Linkbane]

CODE isn't known for its quality. Maybe on par with Keycool at best, it's certainly not Ducky level quality, and it's really expensive, never in stock, and the key caps are still thin ABS. The CODE really has nothing on the Keycool besides the font and advertising. TS, going to sleep but hopefully the KC is an option you're considering, best of luck finding a good Clear board.

Oh, reply. I think that CM representatives were saying that adding any more switches would be very difficult, so I doubt there'll be any progress there. Most guides should have QFR guides though, as they're so ubiquitous.

Really that sucks. WASD v1 was right up there with filco build quality wise.

Really now? I've heard of their quality as good, but people always seemed to compare them as below Filco. I guess it's mostly subjective, anyways.

[Pacifist]

iirc wasd and filco both use the same manufacturing company but they are made in seperate factories with different qc's and tooling

[Beca]

QFR would be the cheapest but would mean the most work for you if you plan to do it yourself (and soldering honestly isn't hard, unless you're stupid like me and do it without reading up on how to do it properly!).

Just for calculation, you can buy a QFR for pretty cheap used, maybe about $70 shipped. Buy clears for like $50, sell the switches from the QFR for $30. So current total is about $90 right now. Cheap soldering equipment should be fine if you just want to solder for this project. It'll definitely be easier with better equipment, but if you're not really looking to solder more in the future, $20 should be enough to buy cheap soldering stuff. So ~$110 for a clear board if you want to do the soldering yourself. You could also send it to someone else to do it, just check classifieds!

[Pacifist]

qfr pcb is **** tho

really easy to screw up

[Beca]

qfr pcb is **** tho

really easy to screw up

the PLU-ML 87 I worked on is arguably just as ****ty, lol. but it worked out fine in the end.

[Pacifist]

QFR would be the cheapest but would mean the most work for you if you plan to do it yourself (and soldering honestly isn't hard, unless you're stupid like me and do it without reading up on how to do it properly!).

Just for calculation, you can buy a QFR for pretty cheap used, maybe about $70 shipped. Buy clears for like $50, sell the switches from the QFR for $30. So current total is about $90 right now. Cheap soldering equipment should be fine if you just want to solder for this project. It'll definitely be easier with better equipment, but if you're not really looking to solder more in the future, $20 should be enough to buy cheap soldering stuff. So ~$110 for a clear board if you want to do the soldering yourself. You could also send it to someone else to do it, just check classifieds!

If you buy a QFR, buy reds. Biggest resale value
Sell the extra switches from the 100 pack for more money
Soldering equipment would be first desoldering ($10 for a soldapult), $10 for a ****ty iron you'll probally never want to use again, and $5 in solder

easiest is to just have somebody like kmiller8 to do it for you

[Pacifist]

qfr pcb is **** tho

really easy to screw up

the PLU-ML 87 I worked on is arguably just as ****ty, lol. but it worked out fine in the end.

lifting the pads on the qfr is too easy to do, on the other hand, I could leave my tip on a cherry pcb for hours and there would be no problems