Soldering question.

[Emmiya]

So, i'll start off by saying sorry, this probably isn't the approriate section for the post, but it's not exactly a build log so i didn't want to post it in the "making stuff together" section.

Anyway! I know that it's highly recommended to get a proper solder kit, aka something along the lines of a Hakko for proper temperature control, build quality and all the other nice features, however is there anything absolutely vital missing in using a cheaper alternative for a one-off use?

I only ask as I don't ever plan on soldering anything in the future, all I simply want to do is desolder the "gaming" cluster, and replace the browns with red. So obviously a $80 or so purchase to replace 4 switches is pretty silly in my opinion.

Thanks for the input - Emmiya

[jdcarpe]

See this thread for answers to your questions, plus much more.

[mashby]

The risk of using a cheap soldering iron is that you could damage your board because it gets too hot. Another option would be to get someone like Margo to do the replacement for you. That way you don't have to buy any gear.

I did that for some SMD work I needed done here in the states. It was far cheaper to have TheChemist do the work than to buy a hot air rig.

Just a thought.

[cruzin]

See this thread for answers to your questions, plus much more.

Ooh, this is good. I'm wanting to get an Ergodox kit and put it together so this will come in handy.

[khaangaaroo]

I would say go for it with a cheap iron. I used them all the time before I got a Hakko. Just don't leave it in contact with the joint for too long after the solder has melted, and you won't overheat or damage anything. And even if you do damage the joint (ie. burn the pad off the pcb), any of the skilled guys here can work a fix around it easily.

[Defect]

I got a cheap $50 iron with temp control and it works just fine.  Probably modded 5-6 boards with it so far, and some of them were swapped multiple times.

[Smasher816]

I would say go for it with a cheap iron. I used them all the time before I got a Hakko. Just don't leave it in contact with the joint for too long after the solder has melted, and you won't overheat or damage anything. And even if you do damage the joint (ie. burn the pad off the pcb), any of the skilled guys here can work a fix around it easily.

Yeah, spending $100 for just 4 switches is silly. Just grab something cheap from radio shack and it will be good enough to get the job done - who cares if the iron doesn't last forever. Or you could do as some others said and pay someone else to mod it.

[frosty]

i use a 20 dollar "voltage controlled" hakko. when i can find a link of it somewhere i'll post it here, works great.

[Emmiya]

See this thread for answers to your questions, plus much more.

Ahh, thank you very much JD, that is practically everything I needed! haha

The risk of using a cheap soldering iron is that you could damage your board because it gets too hot. Another option would be to get someone like Margo to do the replacement for you. That way you don't have to buy any gear.

I did that for some SMD work I needed done here in the states. It was far cheaper to have TheChemist do the work than to buy a hot air rig.

Just a thought.

Righto, thanks, it's something I shall consider looking in to.

I would say go for it with a cheap iron. I used them all the time before I got a Hakko. Just don't leave it in contact with the joint for too long after the solder has melted, and you won't overheat or damage anything. And even if you do damage the joint (ie. burn the pad off the pcb), any of the skilled guys here can work a fix around it easily.

Good to know! I shall give it a practise test first so I get the hang of it before potentialyl destroying my keyboard

I got a cheap $50 iron with temp control and it works just fine.  Probably modded 5-6 boards with it so far, and some of them were swapped multiple times.

Fantastic

I would say go for it with a cheap iron. I used them all the time before I got a Hakko. Just don't leave it in contact with the joint for too long after the solder has melted, and you won't overheat or damage anything. And even if you do damage the joint (ie. burn the pad off the pcb), any of the skilled guys here can work a fix around it easily.

Yeah, spending $100 for just 4 switches is silly. Just grab something cheap from radio shack and it will be good enough to get the job done - who cares if the iron doesn't last forever. Or you could do as some others said and pay someone else to mod it.

Yeah, that's why I was a bit hesitant. I think i'll probably just get a cheap iron an dbe careful with it, given the fact that shipping costs/time is probably going to outweigh the benefits of having it done by someone with experience.

i use a 20 dollar "voltage controlled" hakko. when i can find a link of it somewhere i'll post it here, works great.

Thanks, would be appreciated otherwise I shall just be going for this

[kt425]

There are a few things that can go wrong with really cheap solder irons. Most of them are not temperature controlled, which means you plug them in and they keep warming up. Sometimes, they can get to hot, which will oxidize the tip, causing black scales to form and the solder to no longer stick to the tip. You can try cleaning the black scales off, however, if you can't get it off the tip is ruined and you will have to buy another one. Plus since you don't know what temperature the tip is at, it will more likely keep happening to you. Also with not knowing what temperature the tip is at puts your project at risk too. You can ruin the board if it gets too hot also.

This quick station is only $65 which is cheaper than $80, and you would have a decent solder iron in case you need to solder something again. It's not a bad thing to have in case you do. But that's just my two cents.
http://www.gotopac.com/Quick_Soldering_QUICK3103_p/quick3103.htm

[berserkfan]

nah, OP already said he was only going to desolder 4 switches. This calls for the cheapest possible soldering iron.

As a user of cheap myself, I've come to realize that experience and technique really count. I wasn't tinning my tips properly, causing them to rust and spoil. With more experience now I start the heating with some solder wire already wrapped around the tip and it makes a big difference.

Another huge difference - MOVE your soldering tip over the joint when desoldering. That spreads the heat out more evenly and reduces the chance of damage to PCB from the overheating which could take place if you held down the soldering iron only at one point. I know it all takes place within the timeframe of two seconds, but it really works.

If you're going to desolder at least 1000 switches I think you have to spend like a pro. If you're doing only a few keyboards it's not necessary to add to expenses.