Unicomp quality?

[base_on_base]

There is voting on MassDrop for a Unicomp keyboard. Are Unicomp keyboards of considerable quality? How do Unicomp buckling springs feel compared to Model M buckling springs? Thanks.

[daerid]

There has been numerous reports of Unicomp boards failing, so as far as I'm concerned the official verdict is: YMMV (Your mileage may vary)

[fohat.digs]

Unicomp occupies the old original IBM keyboard factory in Lexington, Kentucky.
The still use the IBM factory equipment and build a true Model M keyboard.

Over the years, changes have been made, and quality control has declined, but the general overall product that you buy brand new today is the same product that you would have bought decades ago.

[0100010]

No issues with the one Unicomp I have, which was manufactured in 1994; nor any of the few hundred key caps, springs, hammers, barrel inserts or other various items I have purchased from them.

[1391406]

Typing feel between IBM manufactured (pre-Lexmark) Model M's and Unicomp M's is pretty much the same, in my opinion. They're inferior in a few other respects, though.

[hwood34]

While the build quality would never be able to match the tanks that IBM made, Unicomp still makes reasonably good boards

[mougrim]

Also, the quality of their keycaps is outstanding. Real PBT with duesub. It's a pity they make only BS keycaps.

[inanis]

I have had a Unicomp for years and had no trouble - I think it was made in 2005, but I don't have it in front of me to check. The only reason I don't still use it is because I took it apart and haven't put it back together again. They make some great keyboards that are very comparable to an original Model M. If I were to purchase another I wouldn't hesitate due to quality or price (they are very reasonable, if you ask me).

The only trouble I've ever had is that I ordered a set of RGB mods for my SSK, and the shift keys are different shades of green. When I questioned Unicomp about this I was told that it was on purpose, which I thought was weird, but I kept them anyway.

[fohat.digs]

Also, the quality of their keycaps is outstanding.

Except that they don't always hit the alignment properly.

Most of mine have been great, but I got a set of green legends that were very inconsistent. Too bad, because they are very handsome!

[mougrim]

Also, the quality of their keycaps is outstanding.

Except that they don't always hit the alignment properly.

Most of mine have been great, but I got a set of green legends that were very inconsistent. Too bad, because they are very handsome!

But their duesubbing process is still good (I comparing original keyset from my AT F with new one I ordered from Unicomp).

[iMav]

Overall, I dislike the design of the Model Ms (with the plastic rivets).  I much prefer the Model F's...and even the Model M2's, since they are much easier to work on.

[mougrim]

Overall, I dislike the design of the Model Ms (with the plastic rivets).  I much prefer the Model F's...and even the Model M2's, since they are much easier to work on.

And much more sturdy.

[1391406]

The main thing the Model M has going for it over the Model F is the layout.

[nubbinator]

The main only thing the Model M has going for it over the Model F is the layout.

[1391406]

The main only thing the Model M has going for it over the Model F is the layout.

Well, the top half of the Model M's case is arguably more sturdy (ie. not as brittle) than F's, and M's don't require custom converters.

[mougrim]

The main only thing the Model M has going for it over the Model F is the layout.

Well, the top half of the Model M's case is arguably more sturdy (ie. not as brittle) than F's, and M's don't require custom converters.

AT F don't require any custom converters too.

*built soarer's today anyway - wanted to remap some keys*

[dwasifar]

I have two Unicomps.  One is a full-size Classic in Ivory, totally old-school, and the other is the smaller UltraClassic in black.

My impression of the quality is that they don't watch the cosmetic details as closely as IBM or Lexmark did.  I knew this going in because I'm not the only one on the internet to say so.  But you have to be ready to put up with plastic flash around the edges of the keys, molding swirls in the plastic (more visible on the black, apparently) and occasional other rough-around-the-edges stuff.  I'm typing on the black one now, and I can see a little lump in the case's "body line" right above the F12 key, and some sloppy moldmaking in the punchout area where the mouse buttons would be if this was a trackpoint version.  The keys all have visible flash down around the bottom edges, the works are a little bit to the right of where they should be to be aligned with the cutouts in the case, and the logo is 1990s hideous.

And I don't care about any of that.  What matters is how it feels and performs, and it shines in that area.  Every key is fast, perfectly tactile, and consistent.  It doesn't have the finish of a real Model M, but it works and sounds and feels just like one.  I can't speak to its longevity, because I haven't had it long enough to see how it holds up.  But it feels right.

Bottom line is, if you want something that looks slick and polished to show your friends, get a Das or something.  The Unicomp is not very impressive to look at.  But if you want something satisfyingly clicky and clacky and don't care if it's kind of a butterface, you could do worse for $80.

[1391406]

I have two Unicomps.  One is a full-size Classic in Ivory, totally old-school, and the other is the smaller UltraClassic in black.

My impression of the quality is that they don't watch the cosmetic details as closely as IBM or Lexmark did.  I knew this going in because I'm not the only one on the internet to say so.  But you have to be ready to put up with plastic flash around the edges of the keys, molding swirls in the plastic (more visible on the black, apparently) and occasional other rough-around-the-edges stuff.  I'm typing on the black one now, and I can see a little lump in the case's "body line" right above the F12 key, and some sloppy moldmaking in the punchout area where the mouse buttons would be if this was a trackpoint version.  The keys all have visible flash down around the bottom edges, the works are a little bit to the right of where they should be to be aligned with the cutouts in the case, and the logo is 1990s hideous.

And I don't care about any of that.  What matters is how it feels and performs, and it shines in that area.  Every key is fast, perfectly tactile, and consistent.  It doesn't have the finish of a real Model M, but it works and sounds and feels just like one.  I can't speak to its longevity, because I haven't had it long enough to see how it holds up.  But it feels right.

Bottom line is, if you want something that looks slick and polished to show your friends, get a Das or something.  The Unicomp is not very impressive to look at.  But if you want something satisfyingly clicky and clacky and don't care if it's kind of a butterface, you could do worse for $80.

I guess my thinking is, for $80 you could just buy an IBM manufactured Model M and an active PS/2 converter. To each their own of course. I bought a Unicomp because I was curious and liked the Black case with gray keys.

[Touch_It]

I got a 103key a couple months ago.  Cosmetically flawed and case had intended than a ibm or Lexmark m but feels fantastic to type on.  I love it.  My biggest gripe is the num lock light doesn't line up with the indicator hole quite right.  Probably easily fixable but I dont care enough to open it up to look.  I have no doubts I will own this keyboard the majority of my life.  I can only hope Unicomp is around that long.

[1391406]

I got a 103key a couple months ago.  Cosmetically flawed and case had intended than a ibm or Lexmark m but feels fantastic to type on.  I love it.  My biggest gripe is the num lock light doesn't line up with the indicator hole quite right.  Probably easily fixable but I dont care enough to open it up to look.  I have no doubts I will own this keyboard the majority of my life.  I can only hope Unicomp is around that long.

In the past I considered transplanting the innards of a Unicomp Model M into the case and keys of an IBM manufactured M, namely because I like the fact Unicomp variants don't emit the hollow metallic pinging / ringing subsequent every keystroke. I haven't pursued the idea because my primary interest is the Model F these days.

[Touch_It]

I got a 103key a couple months ago.  Cosmetically flawed and case had intended than a ibm or Lexmark m but feels fantastic to type on.  I love it.  My biggest gripe is the num lock light doesn't line up with the indicator hole quite right.  Probably easily fixable but I dont care enough to open it up to look.  I have no doubts I will own this keyboard the majority of my life.  I can only hope Unicomp is around that long.

In the past I considered transplanting the innards of a Unicomp Model M into the case and keys of an IBM manufactured M, namely because I like the fact Unicomp variants don't emit the hollow metallic pinging / ringing subsequent every keystroke. I haven't pursued the idea because my primary interest is the Model F these days.

Huh.  Never really gave it much thought.  I only have a terminal m case that I messed up using the melted pen trick on.  Now it will be a hot mess to open.  One of these days I need to find a cheap m and try this out.  I use my Unicomp as my daily work keyboard.  Donations welcome.

[Snowdog993]

In the past I considered transplanting the innards of a Unicomp Model M into the case and keys of an IBM manufactured M, namely because I like the fact Unicomp variants don't emit the hollow metallic pinging / ringing subsequent every keystroke. I haven't pursued the idea because my primary interest is the Model F these days.

You could as long as you obtain a 42H1292 (or equivalent) chassis.  The reason is simple.  The LED layout of the Unicomps have the LED's at the top, closer together, not at the bottom.  Remember this before you attempt.

[1391406]

In the past I considered transplanting the innards of a Unicomp Model M into the case and keys of an IBM manufactured M, namely because I like the fact Unicomp variants don't emit the hollow metallic pinging / ringing subsequent every keystroke. I haven't pursued the idea because my primary interest is the Model F these days.

You could as long as you obtain a 42H1292 (or equivalent) chassis.  The reason is simple.  The LED layout of the Unicomps have the LED's at the top, closer together, not at the bottom.  Remember this before you attempt.

I'd think it's just a simple matter of changing the LED overlay.

[Snowdog993]

In the past I considered transplanting the innards of a Unicomp Model M into the case and keys of an IBM manufactured M, namely because I like the fact Unicomp variants don't emit the hollow metallic pinging / ringing subsequent every keystroke. I haven't pursued the idea because my primary interest is the Model F these days.

You could as long as you obtain a 42H1292 (or equivalent) chassis.  The reason is simple.  The LED layout of the Unicomps have the LED's at the top, closer together, not at the bottom.  Remember this before you attempt.

I'd think it's just a simple matter of changing the LED overlay.

Not exactly unless you want to butcher the LED side.  I will illustrate.

The difference is obvious.  There isn't a big gaping hole there where the overlay goes.  There are distinct square holes made in the design.  I suppose you could tweak it, but I think for a more professional look, just get a 42H1292 chassis.

[1391406]

In the past I considered transplanting the innards of a Unicomp Model M into the case and keys of an IBM manufactured M, namely because I like the fact Unicomp variants don't emit the hollow metallic pinging / ringing subsequent every keystroke. I haven't pursued the idea because my primary interest is the Model F these days.

You could as long as you obtain a 42H1292 (or equivalent) chassis.  The reason is simple.  The LED layout of the Unicomps have the LED's at the top, closer together, not at the bottom.  Remember this before you attempt.

I'd think it's just a simple matter of changing the LED overlay.

Not exactly unless you want to butcher the LED side.  I will illustrate.

The difference is obvious.  There isn't a big gaping hole there where the overlay goes.  There are distinct square holes made in the design.  I suppose you could tweak it, but I think for a more professional look, just get a 42H1292 chassis.

Remove original overlay, drill holes, attach new overlay.

[Snowdog993]

In the past I considered transplanting the innards of a Unicomp Model M into the case and keys of an IBM manufactured M, namely because I like the fact Unicomp variants don't emit the hollow metallic pinging / ringing subsequent every keystroke. I haven't pursued the idea because my primary interest is the Model F these days.

You could as long as you obtain a 42H1292 (or equivalent) chassis.  The reason is simple.  The LED layout of the Unicomps have the LED's at the top, closer together, not at the bottom.  Remember this before you attempt.

I'd think it's just a simple matter of changing the LED overlay.

Not exactly unless you want to butcher the LED side.  I will illustrate.

The difference is obvious.  There isn't a big gaping hole there where the overlay goes.  There are distinct square holes made in the design.  I suppose you could tweak it, but I think for a more professional look, just get a 42H1292 chassis.

Remove original overlay, drill holes, attach new overlay.

I suppose you could do that, but you have to make a custom overlay?  Okay.

[1391406]

In the past I considered transplanting the innards of a Unicomp Model M into the case and keys of an IBM manufactured M, namely because I like the fact Unicomp variants don't emit the hollow metallic pinging / ringing subsequent every keystroke. I haven't pursued the idea because my primary interest is the Model F these days.

You could as long as you obtain a 42H1292 (or equivalent) chassis.  The reason is simple.  The LED layout of the Unicomps have the LED's at the top, closer together, not at the bottom.  Remember this before you attempt.

I'd think it's just a simple matter of changing the LED overlay.

Not exactly unless you want to butcher the LED side.  I will illustrate.

The difference is obvious.  There isn't a big gaping hole there where the overlay goes.  There are distinct square holes made in the design.  I suppose you could tweak it, but I think for a more professional look, just get a 42H1292 chassis.

Remove original overlay, drill holes, attach new overlay.

I suppose you could do that, but you have to make a custom overlay?  Okay.

http://www.pckeyboard.com/page/Misc/LED

[Snowdog993]

I didn't have an argument at all with you.  I thought you were going to fabricate one from the existing overlay.  That works fine too.  Drilling the holes might be the hardest part of the project.  I didn't say you couldn't or shouldn't do it.  I just suggested if you wanted it to look "stock" with no modification, that is the way to go.
If you use the other chassis, you have to route the wiring to where the SDL cable goes, and have a custom grommet of some sort to make that look stock as well.  I was just saying the other chassis would be easier.

[1391406]

I didn't have an argument at all with you.  I thought you were going to fabricate one from the existing overlay.  That works fine too.  Drilling the holes might be the hardest part of the project.  I didn't say you couldn't or shouldn't do it.  I just suggested if you wanted it to look "stock" with no modification, that is the way to go.
If you use the other chassis, you have to route the wiring to where the SDL cable goes, and have a custom grommet of some sort to make that look stock as well.  I was just saying the other chassis would be easier.

I didn't take your comments as argumentative. You were just offering advice. Personally, I'm a purist to a point. In this case I'd be more concerned that the finished project had the outward appearance of looking polished and consistent. If I had a spare white label 42H1292 laying around I'd use that, but I'm not sure white label 42H1292's even exist(I prefer white labels). Incidentally, I'd have to buy one, and I'd prefer to use what's on hand, namely because it's a white label and I already have it in my possession. For anyone else who was planning such a swap, your idea might be just the thing.

[aref]

I had two Unicomps before getting into IBM Model M KBs. I found the feel to be different from the original Model Ms; molding of cases is inferior; Model M Lexmark-patent switches are much louder than and lack the solidity, feel is much different, of IBM manufactured BS switches. It's an okay-only keyboard; but it cannot compare favorably to IBM-made Model Ms.

[Snowdog993]

I had two Unicomps before getting into IBM Model M KBs. I found the feel to be different from the original Model Ms; molding of cases is inferior; Model M Lexmark-patent switches are much louder than and lack the solidity, feel is much different, of IBM manufactured BS switches. It's an okay-only keyboard; but it cannot compare favorably to IBM-made Model Ms.

If you say so.  That is your opinion.  I don't believe it at all.  I have several.  I would think I would feel a difference by now.

[fohat.digs]

If you say so.  That is your opinion. 

I have a feeling that we would all be embarrassed after a blindfold+earplug comparison.

[Xonar]

The only Unicomp I have happens to be from a particularly bad batch of boards, but other than internal QC issues and a slightly flimsy case, it feels no different than any other Model M of similar condition I've owned. The feel really depends on how much the board has been used. I like heavily used boards better than brand new ones as far as the feel.

Any board made before 1989/90 is an exception, however. Those do feel better to me. More akin to the Model F than later models, in my opinion.

[Snowdog993]

If you say so.  That is your opinion. 

I have a feeling that we would all be embarrassed after a blindfold+earplug comparison.

Huh?  Maybe I don't understand that post.  I'm being honest about all my keyboards.  They are all nice.  They all feel the same in my opinion.  I beg to differ that there is any "significant" difference in any of them.  But then again, I have white label and blue label IBM's.  All of the ones I use have SDL except the Unicomp, which is a 42H design.  The build quality of the Unicomp is comparable, but not quite as polished as the others.  However to give Unicomp credit, they do feel comparitively the same.  In a blindfold/earplug test, I don't think I could tell my Lexmark from the IBM's or the Unicomp.  Bolt-modded or not.  And I know if you look around you can see what I have.  Nothing spectacular or "collectible".  Just workhorses I use all the time.  I do have an affinity for the Lexmark logo keyboard, however.  But does it feel any different?  I would be lying if I said yes.  It's special to me.  That's all.

[1391406]

If you say so.  That is your opinion. 

I have a feeling that we would all be embarrassed after a blindfold+earplug comparison.

In a blindfold/earplug test, I don't think I could tell my Lexmark from the IBM's or the Unicomp.

Generally speaking, that's what he's inferring.

[Snowdog993]

If you say so.  That is your opinion. 

I have a feeling that we would all be embarrassed after a blindfold+earplug comparison.

In a blindfold/earplug test, I don't think I could tell my Lexmark from the IBM's or the Unicomp.

Generally speaking, that's what he's inferring.

Yeah I wasn't sure if he was agreeing or disagreeing with me.  That's all.

[fohat.digs]

I wasn't sure if he was agreeing or disagreeing with me.

Both