[Advice] Ways to secure a broken/almost broken usb connector

[KHAANNN]

Hi

I recently bought a second hand infinity keyboard, it's unused but pretty damaged, the worst part is the usb connector that is dislodged

Here is my solution scenario:
1) De-solder switches
2) Fortify the usb terminals with solder, the top ones are dislodged, yet the bottom ones are holding, yet they lack solder
3-green) Use the switch pcb mount holes to cross-tie the usb connector (with some string)
3-red) More likely: Drill the red points, tie the usb connector with a plastic fish line or something similar

I think either 3-red or 3-green is necessary, as the situation is going to get worse with usage, and the terminals are at risk

Here are some photos:


I would really, really appreciate some advice
I'm also not sure what kind of a conversation to spark with the seller, costar stabs are also missing, luckily I have a lot of costar stab parts as spares

[omen7288]

That sucks. I'd personally try your options that don't involve drilling first. You might make the pcb fragile and it could crack if the usb cable were jarred hard enough.

I would think if you desolder the 2 switches around the usb socket and re-solder the usb socket it might be strong enough as the PCB doesn't look damaged or fragile.

You could also measure around the top of the USB socket and 3d print a housing that sits on top of the usb socket and is wedged slightly between the usb top and the top of the case(not sure what the case looks like).

You could use some small wire that is sleeved instead of string if that is more stable. I tried using a zip tie for a similar fix, but the angles were too sharp and they would always snap before I got them tight enough.

[KHAANNN]

I ended up re-flowing the holder solders, the part that got removed from the pcb seemed to re-attach, but I obviously didn't test whether it was rigid

(3d printing an add-on is out of the question, as 60% are pretty tight, the added part wouldn't allow for case fitment, there's less then 1mm of wiggle space)

I then sewed the usb socket using the PCB mount holes as support, using a plastic sewing string, an impressive product, very impressive, this seemed to hold the socket in place

I then applied a very little bit of gorilla glue, so it doesn't wobble in future

I might apply this process to all my future 60%'s :)

I forgot to re-flow the usb socket terminals, the keyboard seems to work, but I couldn't test it reliably, whole thing would have been perfect if I re-flowed the actual terminals too (it's a bit risky, as they are pretty tight, re-flowing them might also get them bonded) - checked the terminals with a loupe but it's impossible to see whether any of them has issues, I'm hoping the lack of visible issues is a sign that there aren't any

Before the gorilla glue, I tested the keyboard on one usb cable, it didn't seem to work, then re-tested it with another usb cable on another port, it worked, I'm hoping the initial not-working was firmware/os related, I will retry after the glue settles

Lessons learned:
1) Don't buy second hand keyboards
2) Rigidify pcb mounted usb sockets if possible
3) Make sure 60% cases come with screws
4) Cable guided TKL's make more sense now, after this experience, 60%'s seem so fragile
5) Try to build every keyboard from scratch, if possible

[FoC_Tow]

I ended up re-flowing the holder solders, the part that got removed from the pcb seemed to re-attach, but I obviously didn't test whether it was rigid

(3d printing an add-on is out of the question, as 60% are pretty tight, the added part wouldn't allow for case fitment, there's less then 1mm of wiggle space)

I then sewed the usb socket using the PCB mount holes as support, using a plastic sewing string, an impressive product, very impressive, this seemed to hold the socket in place

I then applied a very little bit of gorilla glue, so it doesn't wobble in future

I might apply this process to all my future 60%'s

I forgot to re-flow the usb socket terminals, the keyboard seems to work, but I couldn't test it reliably, whole thing would have been perfect if I re-flowed the actual terminals too (it's a bit risky, as they are pretty tight, re-flowing them might also get them bonded) - checked the terminals with a loupe but it's impossible to see whether any of them has issues, I'm hoping the lack of visible issues is a sign that there aren't any

Before the gorilla glue, I tested the keyboard on one usb cable, it didn't seem to work, then re-tested it with another usb cable on another port, it worked, I'm hoping the initial not-working was firmware/os related, I will retry after the glue settles

Lessons learned:
1) Don't buy second hand keyboards
2) Rigidify pcb mounted usb sockets if possible
3) Make sure 60% cases come with screws
4) Cable guided TKL's make more sense now, after this experience, 60%'s seem so fragile
5) Try to build every keyboard from scratch, if possible

Sorry to see you had to go thru repairing the usb connector like this KHAANNN, and I can understand you lost some trust in durability of these mini usb connectors in general.

However there are different design for female pcb mini usb connectors some of which are surface mounted like your example and some of which are actually locked in to and soldered thru holes, which should make for a lot stronger connector.

Regular (thru hole) female 5pin mini usb Example:


SMD (surface mounted) female 5pin mini usb Example:



So I personally think your intend to support/'rigidify' usb connectors in the future might be kinda reasonable for smd mounted connectors, but It might be slightly overkill for thru hole soldered usb connectors.

Im not sure why quite a few pcb design use this smd type of connector as it seems a lot more fragile, but I kinda remember reading about it being related to the connector placement on a default poker pcb.
Its probably very close to other components of the pcb, so going smd connector probably makes pcb designing easier overall.

Pretty sure there is also 60% pcbs with the thru hole type connector tho as Nerd60 as far as I remember should have the stronger thru hole type connector for example. (also looks to me like it would be the non-smd type)

[KHAANNN]

Thanks for the enlightening info, I really feel stupid for buying 4 infinity keyboards from massdrop (5 with this one from drop1)

There are countless design flaws on it, just buying a decent pcb and a plate would have been much simpler/saner

I suspected there has to be a better design for the connecter, indeed the thru-hole one is perfect

They sold these as 60% case compatible, yet the 60% cases break several diodes, there is also the flimsy usb connector, with these flaws it feels like they should send replacements with these issues fixed

-----

On the bright side, it's a lesson

-----

On the dark side, I'm generally unable to leave things in a non-working state, the plate of the keyboard doesn't secure switches in place, the pcb has 15 degrees of wiggle space, the keyboard looks like it's assembled in an asylum, it's impossible to level plate mounted switches, I will likely desolder all the switches, put in PCB Mounted ones so they stay sound, break the innards of the 60% case further to prevent the diode issues and so-on ...

I have a strong desire to just return back to my WASD V2's and leave all this 60% business behind

Edit: I was too harsh on the infinity keyboard, it seems unjust, it's a nice keyboard with some rev1 issues that seem to be getting fixed on rev2, the majority of these issues comes from not testing the pcb design with various 60% cases, understandable - they are fixable, yet it requires destroying some parts of some 60% cases

[VoteForDavid]

Maybe this belongs in the unpopular opinions thread, but this is one of the reasons I don't understand the appeal removable cables on keyboards.  If I had a keyboard with a failed USB connector, I'd chop the end off a USB printer cable or a mouse or something and solder myself a permanent cable onto the keyboard.  Add a strain relief in the form of a knot and/or a zip tie inside the case, you're done and you never have to worry about this problem again.

[Wilba]

If it was my board, I'd probably try using solid core wire to hold it down, maybe drill where you suggested (or notch into the PCB with Dremel/grinding disc), so the wire loops over the USB and under the PCB. Twist wire ends together to tighten and solder the twist. That may be a good thing to do to your other Infinity boards if you think they're at risk of the USB breaking off.

So glad I chose a USB with through-hole mount pins for the Planck/Atomic

They sold these as 60% case compatible, yet the 60% cases break several diodes, there is also the flimsy usb connector, with these flaws it feels like they should send replacements with these issues fixed

Breaking diodes? You mean they placed diodes where 60% cases have "ribs" to support the PCB?

[KHAANNN]

If it was my board, I'd probably try using solid core wire to hold it down, maybe drill where you suggested (or notch into the PCB with Dremel/grinding disc), so the wire loops over the USB and under the PCB. Twist wire ends together to tighten and solder the twist. That may be a good thing to do to your other Infinity boards if you think they're at risk of the USB breaking off.

So glad I chose a USB with through-hole mount pins for the Planck/Atomic ;D

Breaking diodes? You mean they placed diodes where 60% cases have "ribs" to support the PCB?

They are definitely great ideas, I might attempt a more invasive yet solid solution with them, yet the solder-adding + cross-sewing + gorilla glueing seems to work well, it doesn't nudge in the end, but obviously the keyboard will likely not last 20 years, which is sad, I hope all my keyboards to become IBM M's one day

Yes that's exactly what I mean, I'm not sure how the Tex 60% cases intersect with diodes, yet for the Vortex 60% silver case, diode D1/D2's and all the bottom diodes intersect with ribs, interestingly diodes seize to function when pushed, then keep on working when they are removed, I broke/remove the rib parts that intersects with the D1/D2, however I didn't realize the same issue existed for all the bottom row diodes, now I will break the bottom rib too

Maybe this belongs in the unpopular opinions thread, but this is one of the reasons I don't understand the appeal removable cables on keyboards.  If I had a keyboard with a failed USB connector, I'd chop the end off a USB printer cable or a mouse or something and solder myself a permanent cable onto the keyboard.  Add a strain relief in the form of a knot and/or a zip tie inside the case, you're done and you never have to worry about this problem again.

It's definitely a popular opinion, yet it's almost impossible to do, the connector is on the SMD-level, the distances between terminals are very, very low, however if that happens, I would also attempt the same and hope for the best
The removable cables are nice to fast-swap 60%'s, otherwise the keyboard swapping process is a bit hefty and dusty

Apart from these issues, I finally went ahead and bought a desoldering iron, to replace switches with PCB-mounted ones, otherwise they all have a life on their own, they each are tilted around 5 degrees in average

Each keyboard has it's character/issues that comes along with it, but this infinity rev1 was a bit strong willed, but I'm optimistic now that the keyboard will be perfect after all these, I just don't know how I'm going to re-stock my PCB-mounted clears, I will likely end up buying PCB-mount blacks just for the bases

[Sigmoid]

Why not desolder the whole USB connector, clean the PCB pads with desoldering wick and flux, and get / solder a new USB connector there?

BTW, my first reflex (after at least re-seating it) would be to grab the hot snot gun.

[KHAANNN]

Why not desolder the whole USB connector, clean the PCB pads with desoldering wick and flux, and get / solder a new USB connector there?

BTW, my first reflex (after at least re-seating it) would be to grab the hot snot gun.

Simple: not enough skills

I didn't think of using hot glue, I should just cover/support it with hot glue

I might even hot glue the connector to the case after the keyboard/switches mature, I will probably heat it with hot air gun later on if I ever want to open the case, the glue should make sure the usb connector won't wiggle, the challenge would be to not get any glue inside the usb-socket itself

[VoteForDavid]

If you lack skills and/or confidence for soldering the connector itself but still want a fixed cable, you *may* be able to scrape conformal coating off the traces away from the connector, and solder directly to the traces.  This is approximately the same thing in this case though, as the traces are pretty fine.

Hot glue: an underutilized resource in DIY-for-self electronics repair, for sure.

If you have PCB mounted keys at small angles, you may just have to desolder them and resolder at the proper angle.  This requires thinking upside-down and backwards about switch orientation and I expect a few tries would be required to get the hang of it.

[Sigmoid]

Hot glue: an underutilized resource in DIY-for-self electronics repair, for sure.

It's THE staple tool of the electronics assembly factory worker.

[darksakul]

I wonder if two-part epoxy would help

[Dyaems]

2-part epoxy will help. Although this is on a different hardware, I've used those when modding detacheable cables for headphones, and those cables are most likely be removed/inserted more often than keyboards.

If I have a similar issue with a keyboard, and if it is possible to hardwire it, I would hardwire it but use only something like a 3-inch cable for a female usb connector, and then make another long male USB connector so that it would technically be "detacheable." At least I can hold the short cable when removing the USB cables.