If it was my board, I'd probably try using solid core wire to hold it down, maybe drill where you suggested (or notch into the PCB with Dremel/grinding disc), so the wire loops over the USB and under the PCB. Twist wire ends together to tighten and solder the twist. That may be a good thing to do to your other Infinity boards if you think they're at risk of the USB breaking off.
So glad I chose a USB with through-hole mount pins for the Planck/Atomic ;D
Breaking diodes? You mean they placed diodes where 60% cases have "ribs" to support the PCB?
They are definitely great ideas, I might attempt a more invasive yet solid solution with them, yet the solder-adding + cross-sewing + gorilla glueing seems to work well, it doesn't nudge in the end, but obviously the keyboard will likely not last 20 years, which is sad, I hope all my keyboards to become IBM M's one day
Yes that's exactly what I mean, I'm not sure how the Tex 60% cases intersect with diodes, yet for the Vortex 60% silver case, diode D1/D2's and all the bottom diodes intersect with ribs, interestingly diodes seize to function when pushed, then keep on working when they are removed, I broke/remove the rib parts that intersects with the D1/D2, however I didn't realize the same issue existed for all the bottom row diodes, now I will break the bottom rib too
Maybe this belongs in the unpopular opinions thread, but this is one of the reasons I don't understand the appeal removable cables on keyboards. If I had a keyboard with a failed USB connector, I'd chop the end off a USB printer cable or a mouse or something and solder myself a permanent cable onto the keyboard. Add a strain relief in the form of a knot and/or a zip tie inside the case, you're done and you never have to worry about this problem again.
It's definitely a popular opinion, yet it's almost impossible to do, the connector is on the SMD-level, the distances between terminals are very, very low, however if that happens, I would also attempt the same and hope for the best
The removable cables are nice to fast-swap 60%'s, otherwise the keyboard swapping process is a bit hefty and dusty
Apart from these issues, I finally went ahead and bought a desoldering iron, to replace switches with PCB-mounted ones, otherwise they all have a life on their own, they each are tilted around 5 degrees in average
Each keyboard has it's character/issues that comes along with it, but this infinity rev1 was a bit strong willed, but I'm optimistic now that the keyboard will be perfect after all these, I just don't know how I'm going to re-stock my PCB-mounted clears, I will likely end up buying PCB-mount blacks just for the bases