I had some cosmetic issues as well. Thanks for all the info/help roostr but if you're going to be doing re-cuts then I would like one also. Screw holes aren't a big deal because they'll be covered with hardware, but the indicator lights are gonna bug the **** outta me. I'm a bit OCD when it comes to that kinda stuff. I know you didn't personally cause these defects and I hope this doesn't put much strain on you, but I can't help that it bugs me. I don't know much about laser cutting, and I've tried to research it but haven't been able to come up with much about the staining/scratching/residuals that I have present.
From what I understand slag or dross is an effect on the edge where heat builds up along the cut (or the HAZ - heat affected zone) and creates a build-up of molten steel right at the edge, which is then chipped, sanded, or buffed away. The issues I have don't seem to be that... and in my research this is more of an issue with plasma cutting. All the examples of laser cutting that I saw were flawless on the front side with some residual affect on the back.
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That being said I do want to make the solution as easy as possible... What about a re-grain? Was that too expensive or were you just set on a coated steel? I wonder if it's possible to do a DIY regrain using a DA Sander or bench-top grinder/buffing wheel and some sandpaper... Thoughts? I'm not hung up on the coating, I have a pretty sick garage setup and could hit it with a 2-part clear afterwards. Damn those indicator lights!!
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The stuff you're seeing is something you'll also see when torch cutting; the solution is to blast oxygen or an inert gas at high pressure while cutting to prevent it from settling on the thing you're cutting. A diamond stone on a dremel would probably remove most of this.
Being one of the few people with multiple plates in their possession, I'm ALSO seeing a pretty high variance in the switch cut locations from plate to plate; not enough to prevent me from lining switches up with the PCB (I THINK...I only have one finished keyboard. Time will tell...) I was able to make the bad plate work for the mounting holes using a very good floor standing drill press and high speed steel bits...
Plate quality is a bit of a let down for me.
With regards to thickness, I've cut the standoffs/spacers off all of my teensy boards (not easy!) and as a result I'm able to get the teensy boards super close to the Phantom PCB; since I'm putting in USB breakout boards (from Sparkfun) I'm making my own interconnect cables to go from the teensy to the breakout board. In the end, 1/2" standoffs are easily enough clearance. In the front, I can even go shorter.
On an aside...turns out I think MX Clear switches are terrible. Ordered replacement springs from MK along with some Teflon lube.
yeah, guys i am seeing these slag marks are more common than i thought. i feel like i should apologize - i feel like i should have done better QC when i picked these up. I was not expecting to see these manufacturing defects. it seems like a simple process for the fab shop - I gave them the CAD files, they just have to enter them into the router and monitor the process. i dont think they spent enough time with our batch, and should have rejected some of these plates themselves.
I have already contacted the shop and expressed my disappointment in just the few people who have come forward so far. I ordered a couple extra sets for myself, so I will be keeping the worst that I find. I have been packing up a few of the last orders today. hoping to make the post office, but if not they will go out monday. thanks everyone for being patient with me. once everyone has their kits and has a chance to check them over, I will put in the order for remakes for plates with damage/defects.
I also owe some people some more screws. very sorry about that, please send me a PM with how many you need and I will get them out ASAP. Any other issues, let me know and we will try and straighten it out.