GH-122.2016 Case Options

[Spaceman1200]

OK, had to make a couple more changes to the GH122.py source file to get column 22 working; had to reduce the number of LEDs from 5 to 3.

Updated file attached here.

Note - I put in all the diodes on my board and I have been using a bare switch to test. :-)

i can confirm that the new firmware works 100%, Had my board soldered up without switches, but used my tweezers to check the key actuation's! Thanks for your hard work 0100010!

[0100010]

Excellent!  Glad to help...

[Data]

Yep, just finished updating my keymap and flashed the new firmware.  Good to go.  Awesome work, man.  Thank you!

[0100010]

Awesome!

[0100010]

Plate came in today...

[Spaceman1200]

Got mine in as well, filing is definitely required, i just need to find a small enough file

[0100010]

I only needed to clean up the stab holes a bit, and I sanded down the bottom side of the plate.  Picked up a needle file set from Lowes,  http://m.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-6-Piece-Needle-File-Set/4777067

[AKmalamute]

I need to file a bit more.  I was worried I made this mistake.

 The holes I put it my .DXF are for plate mount combined stabs -- but I hate costar, and I only have I think 4 sets of cherry plate stabs left. Plenty of PCB stabs I think, but all told I need 14 stabilizers to complete my board.

 So -- opinions? Which will be less time/trouble ... getting a dremel and trying to cut plate mount into PCB mount, or sourcing a dozen plate mount stabs? I used to have a link to one of the major suppliers, to their Cherry MX leveling kit that turned out to be 2x plate mount stabs. And I have raw wire so can make my own 7x, come to that.

 But I'd also kinda like to put my clear stabs to use, too. So I dunno.

Edit: Mouser has them. Probably my best bet; but since shipping nearly matches the cost of the parts I should shop a bit, stock up on random ... stuff.

 What parts are needed to make an xwhatsit? I'm planning someday on making a BS ergodox so would likely need to make my own controller ... guess it's time to do some homework before they run out ;-)

[hebbler]

I'm still trying to decide on a layout and round up the money to get a case cut for my GH122.

The Cherry plate mount stabilizers are Mouser Part # 540-G99-0224
That's the mount, insert, and wire for smaller keys (not space bar).

I just ordered stabilizers from Mouser Electronics a few days ago.  Ordered both pcb mount and plate mount.  I thought I might be able to use the plate mounts with my RSIII or the Golbat.  But it turns out they both take the pcb mount ones. 

I'm actually trying to source some 6.25x space bar wires.  I think I have 8 sets of the plate mount that I don't need.  Drop me a PM if you think you can use them... maybe you can make me a few space bar wires.   

FWIW, the equivalent Cherry pcb mount stabilizers are Mouser Part # 540-0G990742

*Edited: meant standard 6.25 space bar wire.

[Data]

Depends on your plate I guess.  If you find you need to do a lot of filing like I did then I'd suggest using all plate-mount stabs.  I only used one (for space bar) and it fit tight but didn't require any modification.  Keep in mind that the mount holes in the PCB were cut incorrectly for the 6.25u space bar, so you'll have to use a plate-mount stabilizer there.  There's no discernible difference between Cherry stabs in my experience, once the caps are on.  /shrug

[AKmalamute]

Keep in mind that the mount holes in the PCB were cut incorrectly for the 6.25u space bar,

I imported the 7a+b cutout from Moz' thread of details, and staring down the (plate mount) holes, I can see the PCB holes right under them so it's cool on that front. If you look back a page you'll see the .dxf I sent in, and my problem is the seven 2u "ESC" keys on the left, and I was expecting to use PCB stabs so imported the cutout with the biggest space figuring it was maybe-probably PCB mount (nope).

 I guess I should troll that thread to see if PCB stab cutouts are ever addressed ...

[Data]

You drew your own plate so you should be fine. But I'd still check fitment with some actual stabilizers before soldering. Looks can be deceiving. 

[AKmalamute]

 After just a bit of filing all my stabilizers fit nicely, slide smoothly (thanks Hebbler) so the next step will be to solder things.

 Since I'm using the 2x keys to the far left, and I'm trying to conserve my diodes (at nearly two cents apiece, dontcha know) can someone tell me whether the 2x holes go to the inside, or outside column? They clearly don't have their own diode, but I don't seem to have the Qaz' program on this PC since last wipe, so I can't try to guess which column that is from the various proffered layouts.

[0100010]

2x keys there need the diodes on Column 1 (as printed on the PCB, col 0 in the app).

[kalrand]

This was always the keyboard I thought I'd be typing on in 2017.

I'm glad some of you guys are making the dream happen.

[AKmalamute]

I've put about a third of the diodes on, and it occurred to me they might interfere with the keyswitch itself...so I tried to put a keyswitch in, and it wouldn't fit because I've put the controller between the PCB and the plate.

 Granted, with some mojo involving electrical tape, and *not* involving those little plastic standoffs, it would fit. But the wires would be ALL confuzzled.

 Dang. At this point I'm more minutes into getting that controller soldered than adding diodes.

 Still, for future reference ... putting the controller on the top, for a plate-using keyboard? Nifty! Then I don't need half as much of a case because I don't have to protect the teensy.

[Data]

Ouch.  That won't be fun to desolder.   

In fairness, we covered Teensy placement on Page 1 of this thread. 

[samwisekoi]

Hello all.  This is my third thread to post in, so let me start with a short apology.  Sorry for the absence; please see the main GH-122 thread for a longer update.

I am delighted to see Data's build.  I certainly looks better than anything I have done.  I read over the last couple of pages of this thread, and it appears that there is a current firmware package.  Is that correct?  If so, I won't release a working hack from months ago, but if anyone wants it, I can zip it up for y'all.

Second, I see a note that the 6.25 spacebar on the PCB is wrong on the v1.1 PCB.  Is that true?  It may very well be true -- that row was horrible to create.  However, I think I have an ANSI board populated and working as-is.  I'll check on that, but please let me know if it is wrong, and I'll update the design file in case anyone wants to make more of these.

My GH recovery plan includes monitoring this thread and providing assistance as I can.  I have not gone through my PM Inbox yet, so if you have questions or flames for me, this is the place for that.

Again, my apologies for being away from the hobby for so long, but I shall attempt to do what I can from here out.

And it is great to see some of the boards being built.  That didn't really happen with most of the GH36 PCBs I sent out, so seeing GH-122 keyboards is quite a tonic!

Best to all,

 - Ron | samwisekoi

p.s.  I have ONE spare board in case someone has toasted theirs in a build attempt.

[Data]

Ron, the spacebar switch placement is perfect.  It's just the stabilizer holes that are off-center.  This is easily remedied with a plate-mount stab.

[0100010]

Ditto what Data said.  I have my plate ready, firmware burned, I just haven't had time to place all the switches and solder them in; maybe around Christmas.

[samwisekoi]

Oh gods, soldering the switches!  I had blocked that from memory.  Do all the diodes first, then the switches.  Take breaks and plan a long day.

You know those big reels of solder that seem like they will last a lifetime?  Decades, anyhow?  I emptied mine during the process, then discovered that I had to go to e-Bay to buy real (60/40 Multicore) solder.  The new reel came in its original box -- without a bar code!  I also "upgraded" to a new soldering station, only to discover that modern Weller tips freakin' melt if you use real solder.

Anyhow, enjoy the build. One nice thing about it -- the through-holes are not the crappy OEM ones that lift if you happen to overheat them with a 60W soldering iron.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my GH36 Matrix Keypad.)

p.s.  In other news, I have got mine cheaply mounted in the Unicomp case.  I will post pics when I have something better than a potato.

[Spaceman1200]

Finally snuck in some free time to get this guy together. Got the stab cutouts how they needed to be, But messed a few slightly up, so i had to throw some hot glue to keep em' put. Ignore the mismatched caps. didnt order enough relegendables!

[samwisekoi]

Nice!  It is an amazing number of keycaps.  I can't imagine what to do with an Fn layer!

Good job!

 - Ron | samwisekoi

p.s.  I was born in Southfield.  Haven't been back this century however.  Is it cold yet?

[Spaceman1200]

Nice!  It is an amazing number of keycaps.  I can't imagine what to do with an Fn layer!

Good job!

 - Ron | samwisekoi

p.s.  I was born in Southfield.  Haven't been back this century however.  Is it cold yet?

FN layer only has a few things on it right now, Just a boot key to get it into flash mode without hitting the button on the teensey and a few quick commands for my other monitor
Sweet! Never would have guessed you grew up around here. It's getting to be cold out around here, Not below freezing yet for the high's, but it is getting close.
Hope you are doing well my friend. hope to see more from you in the future! Maybe a R2 with Alps?

[Data]

Finally snuck in some free time to get this guy together. Got the stab cutouts how they needed to be, But messed a few slightly up, so i had to throw some hot glue to keep em' put. Ignore the mismatched caps. didnt order enough relegendables!

Show Image

Superb layout.  ;)

[Spaceman1200]

Finally snuck in some free time to get this guy together. Got the stab cutouts how they needed to be, But messed a few slightly up, so i had to throw some hot glue to keep em' put. Ignore the mismatched caps. didnt order enough relegendables!

Show Image

Superb layout.  ;)

Thanks :D Wonder where i got it from? :DDD

[samwisekoi]

It is built!  The GH-122.2016 in the $20 Unicomp case. It took >10 bucks of plastic spacers, some custom wiring to connect the top block and LED block, and (for now) quite a bit of hot glue.  (Hot glue because it easy to heat and remove.)


GH-122.2016 in the Unicomp PC-122 case.

My main Leopold TKL and JD45 are shown for reference.  Also my 2TB coffee cup coaster.

I'll post interior pictures and spacer specs when I get this finalized.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.

p.s.  Now to see how it works in Half-Life...

[Data]

I think you win the cheapest case award. 

Looks great.

[AMongoose]

It is built!  The GH-122.2016 in the $20 Unicomp case. It took >10 bucks of plastic spacers, some custom wiring to connect the top block and LED block, and (for now) quite a bit of hot glue.  (Hot glue because it easy to heat and remove.)

(Attachment Link)
GH-122.2016 in the Unicomp PC-122 case.

My main Leopold TKL and JD45 are shown for reference.  Also my 2TB coffee cup coaster.

I'll post interior pictures and spacer specs when I get this finalized.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.

p.s.  Now to see how it works in Half-Life...

Is that an fn key to the right of the right shift? Looks great.

[samwisekoi]

Is that an fn key to the right of the right shift? Looks great.

M1 is a Macro key that turns the numpad into Macro strings.  This is in addition to the Fn key (Left_Alt or AltGr) I use to create special characters like the Euro symbol.  Fn(4)  €

One interesting thing about the Teensy++ is that it has so much more memory than the Teensy that it could support way more Macros than Easy Keymap provides.  With this many keys I don't need more macros, but more AltGr characters would be nice,and they take up Easy Keymap macro spaces as well.

M1(3)   - Ron | samwisekoi
M1(6)  Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.

M1(9)  Easy Keymap 2.01.13c (GH-122 D0_NONUM) GH-122 122 ISO 161123a

[Hak Foo]

Just curious-- Data and Spaceman1200, you used a top similar to mine, but it looks like you're getting way better LED output.  I'm wondering if you did some sort of "light piping" or are just using retina-roasting LEDs?

[MandrewDavis]

It is built!  The GH-122.2016 in the $20 Unicomp case. It took >10 bucks of plastic spacers, some custom wiring to connect the top block and LED block, and (for now) quite a bit of hot glue.  (Hot glue because it easy to heat and remove.)

(Attachment Link)

More

GH-122.2016 in the Unicomp PC-122 case.

My main Leopold TKL and JD45 are shown for reference.  Also my 2TB coffee cup coaster.

I'll post interior pictures and spacer specs when I get this finalized.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.

p.s.  Now to see how it works in Half-Life...

Would love to see some of the innards, this whole project has really piqued my interest.

[AMongoose]

M1(6)  Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.

 )

[Spaceman1200]

Just curious-- Data and Spaceman1200, you used a top similar to mine, but it looks like you're getting way better LED output.  I'm wondering if you did some sort of "light piping" or are just using retina-roasting LEDs?

I'm just using some spare red led's from maxkeyboard and 100 ohm resistors

[samwisekoi]

My first pass at connecting the upper bank with socketed connections to pins on the main board was unreliable.  I could have added hot glue to the connections, but then I couldn't open the dang thing.

So I've ordered up some micro AMP connectors and a 20-pin M/F housing pair that will move all of the connections to a single locking connector with every wire soldered to both PCBs.

Once I get that stuff in, I'll take some internal pics while I put it together.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
(Auto-typed by my GH36 Matrix Keypad.)

[Data]

Just curious-- Data and Spaceman1200, you used a top similar to mine, but it looks like you're getting way better LED output.  I'm wondering if you did some sort of "light piping" or are just using retina-roasting LEDs?

Nothing special.  I am using rather bright LEDs and I have them mounted about a quarter inch above the PCB, sticking up through the switch plate, and very nearly touching the underside of the top case plate.  The resistors I chose are just the bare minimum for these LEDs and I kinda wish I had used bigger ones. 

I've been tossing around some ideas to cut inserts out of translucent acrylic to diffuse the light a little, or a small piece of film tint to put under the top layer.  It's really distracting.

[samwisekoi]

Unicomp Case Mods for GH-122 Part 1

Here are the things you need to do to the Unicomp case to enable the flat GH-122 PCB to fit in the curved case.

CASE BOTTOM:

#1 Trim four (4) plastic risers to .375" (9-10mm) to provide edge stops for the GH-122 PCB.  The length is less critical than the need to have all four stops in a striaght line.  These stops will align the keyboard up and down, and ensure a straight edge between the spacebar row and the bottom of the case opening.

I suggest populating the PCB, including keycaps, and setting it in the case.  Then adjust it so all keycaps clear the openings in the top of the case.  Then very carefully lift the top cover off, and mark where the bottom edge of the PCB must be.  THEN carefully trim the four flanges to create bottom stops.



#2 Attach .375" x 3" x .250" (10mm x 75mm x 6mm) spacers to both bottom edges of the case.  These will center the PCB and keyboard in the case.  Length is not critical, as long as they are long enough to allow attachment ABOVE the point where they contact the PCB.  (This will be clear once you test fit the PCB.)

#3 Attach an 11.0625" x .625" x .250" (282mm x 16mm x 6mm) support between the existing support braces.  You may have to trim the tips of the existing support braces -- I did.  This support is critical to the feel of the keyboard, so make sure you like the resulting angle AND make sure the support is parallel to the bottom of the case.



CASE TOP:

#4 Place a pair of spacers above and below the opening for the function key bank.  The top spacer is 11.065" x .500" x .250" (295mm x 12mm x 6mm)  The bottom space is .4375 (10mm) wide.  These spacers ensure that the top bank is centered vertically, and provide a base for attachment of the PCB segment.  They are also visible, so I suggest black plastic.

#5 [OPTIONAL] Attach an approximately 1" x 3" x .250" (25mm x 75mm x 6mm) support for the three LEDs.  You can attach the LEDs directly to the top case, but I find drilling a few holes in a bit of plastic works much better.  Drill the holes based on the LED overlay you chose.  I am using the IBM-style overlay with the LEDs at the bottom, but Unicomp offers other styles and has multiple holes.

Regardless, you should hold the LED support under the holes and mark them accurately before drilling.  The holes do NOT seem to be logically spaced, so mark it based on your actual case top.


That blue bit is just a reflection.

Once I get the connectors for the harness I will post Part 2 of this guide.

 - Ron | samwisekoi

p.s.  I used hot glue so I could use a heat gun to remove anything I needed to remove while experimenting.  Eventually I may replace all the hot glue with epoxy.  Or not.  Just an FYI about adhesives.  Oh, I used acrylic for all the spacers, but that was for convenience.  They could be oak, aluminum, or diamond-encrusted platinum^™ if you like.

[Data]

+1 for diamond-encrusted platinum spacers.  )

[samwisekoi]

I have the GH-122 installed and functional in the Unicomp case.  I've built it with Browns (mostly) for quiet home use, and installed Nuclear Green SA keycaps.  It looks great, but feels kind of mushy.  I suppose it is very terminal-like, but not the nice crisp typing feel from my Leopold.  Dull.

Am I the only person who has built one without a plate?  The long board may dampen typing feel.

On the other hand, these giant keycaps may be the issue.  With all of the SA group buys out there, someone must be running them on a 104-key keyboard with MX Brown switches.  I did see a discussion about SA keycaps weighing more, and thereby effectively reducing the spring rate.  So maybe heavier springs?

For those of you who have built GH-122s, how is the feel, and what switch/keycap combos are you using?

(On the other hand, I really, really like having that left-hand function block!)

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.

[Data]

I use mine every day at work.  I also have MX Browns, but only for the alphas, number pad, and F-row.  I used Clears in the other locations.  My keycaps are dye-sub PBT in the Cherry profile.

As far as typing feel, it's very rigid with a steel plate.  It's also super hollow so it has a bit of a rough, edgy feel to it.  It's hard to describe.  But overall I'd say my experience has been markedly different from yours.

[samwisekoi]

I use mine every day at work.  I also have MX Browns, but only for the alphas, number pad, and F-row.  I used Clears in the other locations.  My keycaps are dye-sub PBT in the Cherry profile.

As far as typing feel, it's very rigid with a steel plate.  It's also super hollow so it has a bit of a rough, edgy feel to it.  It's hard to describe.  But overall I'd say my experience has been markedly different from yours.

Thanks!

I am going to bring home a set of Cherry+GMK keycaps to try.  I also checked to see that a 60% plate could be used with the Unicomp case.  That wouldn't support the switches, but would add some rigidity.

Oh, and I also used "mostly" Browns.  I added Greens for the arrows and Enter keys, plus another for the Copy key to ensure I could tell I hit that instead of Cut, Paste, or Undo.  The two dozen function keys and the nav cluster are Blacks, and the spacebar is Grey.

Anyhow, thanks for your input.  The experience you describe is the one I designed the board to give.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Typed on an actual F-122 without enough memory to create auto-type macros.

[Hak Foo]

I'm using Gateron Greens and DSA Retro /Crap Bag.  The feel is, well, like other platemount MX-alike boards.  The Gaterons are heavy and loud, but not hugely tactile.

[samwisekoi]

Thanks for the input everyone.  I added a 60% plate, simply because I had one from an old Poker, and it provides a very firm typing platform.  It feels good with the SA caps on MX Greens (hidden under the CAPS and Enter keycaps.)  But the SA+Browns still feels over-damped.

I did try Cherry keycaps, and those felt better, but are too low for the Unicomp case.  Probably an R5 bottom row would work.

But in the meantime, I am searching for the right switch/spring combination that will work with these keycaps.  I posted in the Zealio 4.5 thread to see what they say about a set of Zealio switches with one of the heavier springs.

Question:  Has anyone else done a GH-122 with SA keycaps?

Thanks and best regards,

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.

[samwisekoi]

I updated OP#2 with photos of all known completed GH-122 keyboards.

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=80473.msg2099113#msg2099113

Did I miss anyone?  Please advise.  Also let me know when you get one completed.  (This especially includes you, 0100010 and AKmalamute.)

FYI and Thanks!

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Gratuitous auto-typers all on the workbench today.

[samwisekoi]

Reading through this thread to see if I missed anything, I saw a request for the vector file of the GH-122 badge.  FYI, that badge is sized to fit the Unicomp case.


Actual size is 1.70" x 0.70"

Anyhow, attached are the original files in DXF and VSD.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.

[samwisekoi]

Ron, the spacebar switch placement is perfect.  It's just the stabilizer holes that are off-center.  This is easily remedied with a plate-mount stab.

FYI, all of my builds are 1.5- -1.5-7.0-1.5- -1.5, so I don't use the ANSI spacebar any more.  But I am working on a plate AND want to fix get this correct for the 2017 run.  Can you (or someone) let me know what I did wrong with the 6.25 spacebar stabilizer mounting holes?

I used - or should have used - 50mm spacing from the center of the switch for the 6.25 stabs.  So two questions:

#1 is 50mm from center correct for the 6.25 stabs?

#2 If I used the right total width (100mm), did I just put them in the wrong places relative to the switch?

Anyhow, thanks in advance for details on the correction I need to make.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.

[Data]

Reading through this thread to see if I missed anything, I saw a request for the vector file of the GH-122 badge.  FYI, that badge is sized to fit the Unicomp case.

(Attachment Link)
Actual size is 1.70" x 0.70"

Anyhow, attached are the original files in DXF and VSD.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.

That was me.  Thanks.

I was going to have this cut directly into my case top in the big empty spot next to the lock indicators.  But it's probably a good idea that I didn't have these vectors when I ordered because it would have increased the price dramatically.  Silver lining. 

It would have looked sweet, though.

Instead I'm tossing around some ideas to have a vinyl sticker made for that area.

[Data]

Ron, the spacebar switch placement is perfect.  It's just the stabilizer holes that are off-center.  This is easily remedied with a plate-mount stab.

FYI, all of my builds are 1.5- -1.5-7.0-1.5- -1.5, so I don't use the ANSI spacebar any more.  But I am working on a plate AND want to fix get this correct for the 2017 run.  Can you (or someone) let me know what I did wrong with the 6.25 spacebar stabilizer mounting holes?

I used - or should have used - 50mm spacing from the center of the switch for the 6.25 stabs.  So two questions:

#1 is 50mm from center correct for the 6.25 stabs?

#2 If I used the right total width (100mm), did I just put them in the wrong places relative to the switch?

Anyhow, thanks in advance for details on the correction I need to make.

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.

Sorry for the double post.  I wanted to respond to this separately.

From my test plate photos here:



I tried to show with the stabilizer wires where the holes should be.  You can see that the 7-unit wire matches the hole placement in the PCB.  But the 6.25-unit holes are not close.  They might be centered relative to the switch but the dimensions are wrong.  Honestly not sure what happened there.

I used a bone stock 6.25u wire and it matches the cutouts in my PETG test plate perfectly.  Let me know if you need any more info.

Edit: I just eyeballed the distance from center-switch to the 6.25u stab holes in the PCB at 37mm using a metric ruler.  So I guess there you go.    50mm is (or would be) correct as far as I can tell.

[samwisekoi]

You're welcome and thank you for the two posts.

Those, my friend, I believe to be stabilizer holes for a Japanese spacebar.  From the bottom row for all people and all situations.  I thought I got rid of those!  Apparently, however, I got rid of the switch position and kept the stabilizers, and then did the reverse for the 6.25.  Grrr.

Anyhow, thanks!

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.

[samwisekoi]

Anyone interested in an ANSI/ISO plate?


Semi-universal plate for GH-122.2016-2017.

This plate is designed to the same dimensions as the PCB, and will support standard ANSI with 104 or full function keys, as well as ISO Enter with split right shift.  (The weird slices on the function key cutouts are cutaway ribs to allow 104-style function rows with offset F5-F8.)  It also supports single or double keys in the upper-left block, the numpad, and the backspace.  Stepped and non-stepped Caps keys are supported, and Cherry plate-mount stabilizers for the 6.25 spacebar (using 50mm centers!).

I will probably add guides for cutting the plate to fit the Unicomp case, and to be used in a 5x24 wide-body configuration.

Anyhow, my testing shows that this PCB likes a plate, and for five or more plates, Big Blue Saw wants $82 in raw stainless steel.

I wiil probably have some made for a 2017 run of PCBs, and I wondered if any of the current builders are interested.

Please reply here if this might be for you, and if there is a cutout you think I missed.

Thanks very much,

 - Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.