Solder sucker

[mniels]

Any opinions on the best solder sucker out there?  They seem to almost all be the same design, just wondering on everyone's opinion.  Seems like the ones I have tried all have sub-par suction.  Perhaps my expectations are too high?

[pomk]

What is your price range? I would suggest getting JBC if the best is what you are interested in.

[SpAmRaY]

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FR300-05-P-Desoldering-Tool/dp/B00KWM69C4

If money isn't a problem just get one of these, especially if you plan to desolder regularly.

[dgneo]

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485185888&sr=8-1&keywords=engineer+ss02

This is one of the more recommended ones that I've seen.

[OfTheWild]

Heres my recommendation: Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker

That being said, i have been using this cheap one for a year now and i have desoldering down like a pro and its no problem. When i was first starting out and trying to melt solder then stick the nozzle over the pin onto the melted solder it wasnt working very well. Solder tip on right side, sucker nozzle on left... touch the tips and suck!    I can desolder a board in a matter of minutes now. I also got down the process for removing bent pin switches with out lifting the pads too thats to Leopold's wonderful assembly job.

[bmmcwhirt]

This is my recommendation.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IJVVY0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2Z3EMIT03ZZZY&coliid=I1I0TNFB7ZJEX9&psc=1

[TalkingTree]

Heres my recommendation: Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker

Best solder sucker that money can buy.

[Leslieann]

Beware the cheap ones like the Vastar.
They work to a degree, but in my experience, the hard plastic tip really doesn't work as well as those with some flex.

[ReadmeDotTxt]

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485185888&sr=8-1&keywords=engineer+ss02

This is one of the more recommended ones that I've seen.

I just purchased this one. It has a nice compact metal body. The button placement for the sucking part may or may not fit your hand well, depending on your hand size.

Sometimes it is a bit tricky to eject the sucked up solder. The solder will sometimes get stuck along the walls of the device and the plunger will be pushed in between the solder instead of pushing it out. I haven't used it enough to completely debug it, but I got it working pretty smoothly towards the end of the board. Expect to play around with it a bit to get the hang of it.

[bmmcwhirt]

The biggest problem with the single action pump vacs is that they are slow. They are ok for one or two pins but if you have to remove and IC or something you will want a unit with it's own hot end and continuous vacuum. The latter is also a lot cleaner. If you are desoldering you also want some good liquid flux. Avoid the paste flux. For cleaning flux a good flux cleaner will work better than alcohol but if you are using alcohol get the 91%. I also keep some soft toothbrushes to speed up cleaning. Don't get anything but soft and just your generic flat head with no special features. They also come in handy for cleaning and restoring old keyboards.

[mniels]

Actually ended up ordering the SS-02.  Lots of recommendations here and elsewhere.  Should be here tomorrow for a test drive.  Also upgraded my iron by getting a Weller WLC100.  Analog is all I should need.  I have been using a Weller 40w, and I seriously misjudged the usefulness of an On/Off switch.

I did look at more of a re-work type station as well as the standalone desolderers with motorized suction, and I just could not justify the cost, at least not at the moment.  If I end up doing a bunch of scavenging for older boards and/or doing a lot more repairs later, I might look into it.  I love the concept, just not the price tag!

Thanks for all the information everyone.  Much appreciated as always!

Matt

[OfTheWild]

Good choice. My opinion is between $10-20 and $200-300 ... you will never be able to justify that cost in a keyboard hobby. Go buy more keyboards or something with the extra loot.

[mniels]

Well, everything arrived today, and holy cow, what a difference.  Nice that they include the extra silicon tubing as well.  I can't imagine it will be hard to get more as needed.

Not only does it work easier, it is much easier to eject the solder as well, if you push the plunger past the point of a reset, it actually extends about a 1/4" past the end of the nozzle.  Nice, unexpected benefit!

[OfTheWild]

Yeah mine does that too but you sometimes get a 'clogger' that you have to pick out or bend the tip against the plunger so it grips it to push it out. Hows the suction with the softer tip?

[mniels]

Yeah mine does that too but you sometimes get a 'clogger' that you have to pick out or bend the tip against the plunger so it grips it to push it out. Hows the suction with the softer tip?

Yeah, that does happen, but pretty easy to clean out.  Still faster than trying to suck out the solder several times to get the same amount.

Suction is great, no complaints at all.  There is a video of a guy picking up a coin with one, and I can verify that it will do that, no problem.  Where it really shine is on through holes, combined with a smaller conical tip it slurps everything up in pretty much one shot.

[widdlekitty]

Also consider getting some solder wick. Its cheap and they'll grab what the suckers can't.

[Data]

I use this Edsyn.

https://www.amazon.com/Edsyn-Deluxe-Soldapullt-Heavy-Vacuum/dp/B006GOKVKI/

I'm not great at using it (even after desoldering every switch in my GH-122) but it does the job better than solder wick ever could.  Requires constant cleaning but I'm pretty sure that's true of every solder sucker.

[mniels]

Yeah, do have some wick. Didn't need it once when desoldering all switches on a pok3r when using the ss-02.

I was looking at the soldapullt as well but the flexible top on the 02 sold me.


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[ghostjuggernaut]

I use this Edsyn.

https://www.amazon.com/Edsyn-Deluxe-Soldapullt-Heavy-Vacuum/dp/B006GOKVKI/

I'm not great at using it (even after desoldering every switch in my GH-122) but it does the job better than solder wick ever could.  Requires constant cleaning but I'm pretty sure that's true of every solder sucker.

Im with you on the soldapullt.  Been using them for many years at work, and have never been let down.  I imagine most suckers are the same, but i just like the size of this one the best.

[ReadmeDotTxt]

I haven't found that I need wick on keyboard switches. If I missed a little bit, I added more solder and then sucked it all up again. Is this bad practice?

[OfTheWild]

You know i have a roll of wick that perhaps i just haven't gotten the hang of. I find that coming back over something that didn't get a clean suction on it with the solder sucker is still easier and more efficient. I will admit that i did slice a 45 degree bevel in the tip of my cheap sucker so that it sat flush with the board when in use. Just for kicks, i just timed myself desoldering a TKL board and from start to finish it was comfortably at 18 minutes. Definitely not worth it to go from a $5 sucker to a $260 professional iron/sucker combo setup.

[bmmcwhirt]

I haven't found that I need wick on keyboard switches. If I missed a little bit, I added more solder and then sucked it all up again. Is this bad practice?

Nope, whatever works best for you and puts the least heat on the pad for the shortest time to limit the possibility of lifting.

[MajorKoos]

You know i have a roll of wick that perhaps i just haven't gotten the hang of. I find that coming back over something that didn't get a clean suction on it with the solder sucker is still easier and more efficient. I will admit that i did slice a 45 degree bevel in the tip of my cheap sucker so that it sat flush with the board when in use. Just for kicks, i just timed myself desoldering a TKL board and from start to finish it was comfortably at 18 minutes. Definitely not worth it to go from a $5 sucker to a $260 professional iron/sucker combo setup.

I use both. 
A half decent $5 job can definitely give the same results as my Hakko, and for touch up work it's my tool of choice.
If I'm actually going to desolder a bunch of stuff I'd rather use the Hakko - With the component in one hand and the desoldering gun in the other and you're done in next to no time.  It beats juggling a sucker and an iron while hunching over a PCB breathing fumes.

[OfTheWild]

^ yeah, and I suspect thats where their market is really... people removing delicate components from boards or something that is mounted perhaps and need the extra hand to hold stuff. We're dealing with what is otherwise really simple flat easy to access large solder joints.

[ReadmeDotTxt]

Once you go into a setting where your time is more valuable than the money, I bet the Hakko pays off quickly. No need to worry about solder jams every three or four joints.  Just go go go. Volume use is where it would be most effective. I imagine people have helping hand things to support delicate things.

[OfTheWild]

Once you go into a setting where your time is more valuable than the money, I bet the Hakko pays off quickly. No need to worry about solder jams every three or four joints.  Just go go go. Volume use is where it would be most effective. I imagine people have helping hand things to support delicate things.

I'd be curious to see how much faster someone is with a soldering gun. 18min from start to finish with every switch removable afterwards is tough to beat for a $5 pump. I would be amazed if you could do it in under 10min which would leave you 8 min costing at lets say $242... which by my  would be roughly  $1800 a hour time valuation? thats insane.  )

[MajorKoos]

Once you go into a setting where your time is more valuable than the money, I bet the Hakko pays off quickly. No need to worry about solder jams every three or four joints.  Just go go go. Volume use is where it would be most effective. I imagine people have helping hand things to support delicate things.

I'd be curious to see how much faster someone is with a soldering gun. 18min from start to finish with every switch removable afterwards is tough to beat for a $5 pump. I would be amazed if you could do it in under 10min which would leave you 8 min costing at lets say $242... which by my  would be roughly  $1800 a hour time valuation? thats insane.  )

I don't even think there would be that much difference.
The desoldering gun makes the process very, very simple and predictable - even a novice could match you in terms of speed and efficiency.

[pomk]

Once you go into a setting where your time is more valuable than the money, I bet the Hakko pays off quickly. No need to worry about solder jams every three or four joints.  Just go go go. Volume use is where it would be most effective. I imagine people have helping hand things to support delicate things.

I'd be curious to see how much faster someone is with a soldering gun. 18min from start to finish with every switch removable afterwards is tough to beat for a $5 pump. I would be amazed if you could do it in under 10min which would leave you 8 min costing at lets say $242... which by my  would be roughly  $1800 a hour time valuation? thats insane.  )

It should be quite trivial to get one joint done in a second or two with a good desoldering tool. You can also think it like this: If you make $10 for each board you desolder, you could double your capacity and thus cover the cost of the tool in less than a week after which you would double your income. Of course almost no-one does de-soldering for a living in the western world, but it's something to think about.

[OfTheWild]

Yup, agreed. That was my point with the whole hobby vs. Job thing. I'm sure its way easier, and less strain on the forearms... but for me at least its a tough sell when I could buy another board or something for the difference.

This is of course coming from someone who has never used one - so take anything I say with a grain of salt lol. Years from now i might be preaching a high end soldering iron+sucker setup to prevent damaging boards or something I dunno!

[OfTheWild]

got the $22 solder sucker... first impressions = wow. this is way nicer.
Its smaller than what i'm used to but very well made. The suction is good but with a lighter spring rate so its easier on the forearms after 200+ presses. It comes with a few inches of spare tube for the tip too. Its quieter.

Will check back in after desoldering some of this V80 w/ alps 

[ReadmeDotTxt]

Once you go into a setting where your time is more valuable than the money, I bet the Hakko pays off quickly. No need to worry about solder jams every three or four joints.  Just go go go. Volume use is where it would be most effective. I imagine people have helping hand things to support delicate things.

I'd be curious to see how much faster someone is with a soldering gun. 18min from start to finish with every switch removable afterwards is tough to beat for a $5 pump. I would be amazed if you could do it in under 10min which would leave you 8 min costing at lets say $242... which by my  would be roughly  $1800 a hour time valuation? thats insane.  )

I don't even think there would be that much difference.
The desoldering gun makes the process very, very simple and predictable - even a novice could match you in terms of speed and efficiency.

I was just reading another thread where someone was having difficulty desoldering leds. Assuming a desoldering gun works well for that use, I think it would make a huge difference. It could meant he difference between a working board or lifting the pads off the pcb

[OfTheWild]

I dunno, i dont see how it would be any different. Lifting the pads on LEDs is more to do with excessive heat and then really its trying to remove the LED before its been fully detached. At least in my experience.

[MajorKoos]

FWIW I haven't lifted a pad since getting my Hakko desoldering gun - that wasn't the case when using a sucker.
Once in a while the tip gets blocked, but it's a 5 min job to clear. 
I still use the manual pump for small jobs, but if it's something expensive I'd rather use the Hakko.
Yes, it cost a fair bit more than my soldering station, but by now it's paid for itself it components I haven't ruined.

[OfTheWild]

Ok i've got 20 switches on the most difficult setup you can attempt... the alps KBP v80. I will say that the new sucker is a bit more gentle but the real improvement comes from the soft tip that i can mash into the joint to try and suck up the solder that inevitably slides down the hole and causes you to rip out the pad/tube from the backside when you pull out the switch. I am still having to crank up the heat to get into the leadless solder, suck up the excess from the top, then using the bent needle tip on my iron... get the stuck solder down in the pcb hot enough to then suck up with the new sucker that creates a seal against the board. I tried using my trusty cheapo $5 sucker and although it was better at sucking up more volume in one pull, its hard plastic tip did not allow me to make a seal to pull the solder back up out of the rather deep PCB.

For those who haven't done a board like this, it is absolutely the most difficult thing to work with. I can totally see why people rip pads on it all day long and give up.

Anyway, just my 2 cents from my first use of this new solder sucker.

[mniels]

Well, here is a question that I don't think anyone has asked yet....

There are lots of different de-soldering guns/stations out there at all different price points.  Has anyone used something less expensive than the Hakko, but maybe does not work quite as well, but is a better option than a sucker?  Even something that works as well, or even better?

There might be a good middle ground between price and performance.

[pomk]

I'm sorry to say this, but Hakko is typically known to be the good middle ground. They usually have good performance and no unnecessary bells&whistles.
The expensive stuff comes from for example JBC, whose desoldering station is around 1200+ USD.

[mniels]

I'm sorry to say this, but Hakko is typically known to be the good middle ground. They usually have good performance and no unnecessary bells&whistles.
The expensive stuff comes from for example JBC, whose desoldering station is around 1200+ USD.

Ha, fair enough then!


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[MajorKoos]

Desoldering a TKL using a Hakko FR-300

[OfTheWild]

^^ very cool! I mean that is definitely much easier for sure. It would have really made this current project with the V80 and alps a whole lot more efficient.

[H3NT4I]

I normally use a cheap solder sucker and an iron but I recently got one of these just to try: http://r.ebay.com/tjxvQM It actually isn't all that terrible, nothing like the expensive options but it's been getting the job done.

[ReadmeDotTxt]

wow. for such a low price it makes me want to get it just to try it out. however, it also makes me a little suspicious...

[pomk]

That does not seem to have a temperature control feature, making pad lifting a possible side-effect from using it.

[MandrewDavis]

Ok i've got 20 switches on the most difficult setup you can attempt... the alps KBP v80. I will say that the new sucker is a bit more gentle but the real improvement comes from the soft tip that i can mash into the joint to try and suck up the solder that inevitably slides down the hole and causes you to rip out the pad/tube from the backside when you pull out the switch. I am still having to crank up the heat to get into the leadless solder, suck up the excess from the top, then using the bent needle tip on my iron... get the stuck solder down in the pcb hot enough to then suck up with the new sucker that creates a seal against the board. I tried using my trusty cheapo $5 sucker and although it was better at sucking up more volume in one pull, its hard plastic tip did not allow me to make a seal to pull the solder back up out of the rather deep PCB.

For those who haven't done a board like this, it is absolutely the most difficult thing to work with. I can totally see why people rip pads on it all day long and give up.

Anyway, just my 2 cents from my first use of this new solder sucker.

Show Image

After desoldering about 10 full sized boards I noticed that the engineer solder sucker was losing its springback and suction power. It may just need to be taken apart and periodically cleaned along with lubing the rubber gasket. Works like new now!