You are going to run into a few issues with your build.
An explanation first.
On stock Filco boards, the controller. as Suicidal Orange said actually controls everything, on a Filco that is removable, and you can get one that is programmable. That is what is in mine (H.I.D. Liberator). Or you can go with the FTL board which has it built in, but is also programmable. If you want the LFK board, unless you are familiar with soldering smd parts you will want to get all diodes and such soldered, with backlights, pick your usb connector, (I recommend micro or type C, mini is not designed for abuse), and Filco mounting holes. Underglow will not show with your case and you do not need the speaker, get it if you want though.
Now the first problem... Your plate
Filcos use a special switch plate witch is bent on the sides, it is not flat like most plates or universal plates. Those sides make it super stiff (and contribute to Filco Ping), but are also what mounts to the case. Especially, the aftermarket aluminum ones. It makes for a SUPER stuff setup, one of the stiffest yo can get, but it requires those sides. I know of no one offering a bent side plate with removable switch tops.
So you have a few options here.
Buy a used Filco and use the plate, in which case, you may want to just use the PCB and buy and aftermarket controller. You end up with almost the same end result. Why not just buy a plate? Well, the Filco plate is needed to mount to the aluminum cases, so lots of people buy them just to tear the plates out. This led to a glut of used Filcos when the Phantoms first came out, people bought them up like crazy, and still often buy them and the case and throw out the guts, which are actually REALLY good. Filco has one of the best PCB's you can get, so don't be in a rush to ditch it. Some Cooler Master and Rosewill are also interchangeable.
If however you want to have openable switch tops, you need a universal plate, and those are almost always flat and that means you need an adapter. One member made some out of pencils if I remember right, I used to make them on my 3d printer but I haven't in a while. I can make you some for a small fee or if you have a 3d printer I can send you the files or you can try making them out of wood or whatever, but you will need to figure something out if you use something other than a stock plate. I still use the first ones I made, so they do last.
Here is my old thread with info about the adapters and installing a universal plate:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=46827.0Contrary to how they look in photos these are actually L shaped, not just a rectangle, though you could probably get away with doing just that.
Second issue... And this is a BIG one.
Beware, these pcb may not even fit your case. This was something Phantom owners found out the hard way, because of the Phantoms placement of the controller, it hit the bottom of the case. Filco puts their controllers on top of the PCB just above the arrow keys, while most put them underneath. The stock case had lots of clearance, but the aluminum ones are EXTREMELY tight, guys with Phantoms had to cut recesses or even a hole to allow for room to clear, one I believe even added jumper wires and moved the controller. You may want to ask LFK where the controller is, in back on the bottom you may be okay, but if it is in the front or middle on the bottom it will hit the bottom of your case. Remember, they are expecting a factory case, which had plenty of room, not an aftermarket one.
Good luck, and don't give up it will be nice once you pick a path.
If you want it done quick, buy a used Filco and use it for parts, you can upgrade it later, otherwise it may take a while.
