Build LogI replace the leeku's pcb with The Leaf pcb, big thanks to Shadohhh and Mike for putting up with my shenanigans, kept building then desoldering then trading pcb's. The Leaf pcb and the Time pcb are virtually the same, except the Leaf pcb has the extra slot for Alps stepped capslock, so I dont have to drill the pcb like I did with the Time.
Evolution of the plate: Stainless Steel -> Acrylic -> POM
Evolution of the flex: No switches -> 6 switches -> switches and scissors. I was trying to find the most consistent weights that can grab hold onto the flexy plates.
Drilling the LED holes:
- 3/64'' drill bit
- instead of a dremel, I like to use the bigger hand drill. The hand drill just anchors on the table and I could feed the housings to the drill, that way it is more consistent. You only have to work with one hand really, less slip and slide.
Lube:-Super lube for the springs to take care of the pings mostly. First gen SKCL's are notoriously pingy
-PFTE powder for the stems with IP as the applying medium
-Pictures show 5s, 30s, then 5min for powder drying
I go over the bottoms with a brush to get rid of excessive powder.
Prepping the capslock:A little more drilling to widen up the holes. Same 3/64'' bit
Soldering the alphas:-The little comb to line up the switches HORIZONTALLY. 3mm is the maximum thickness for the comb.
-The LEDs to line up the switches VERTICALLY
-Solder 3 columns at a time.
The Plate:-Plate is 1.5mm which is a bit thicker than the standard 1.2mm for alps
-Toothpick trick to keep the stab hooks in place because of the 1.5mm thickness problem. Something I picked up from building cherry boards with clip-in stabilizers; and I think those are still the best pcb-mount stabilizers out there. You dont have to worry about shorting or the screws hitting the bottom case.
-Plate support to make sure the plate doesnt slide off the switches, a common problem with plastic plate for both alps and mx