Components for building a Phantom keyboard

[argyakrivos]

Hi everyone,

I'm quite new to this forum and after spending some time reading many of the topics here I decided to give it a go and make my own phantom keyboard. The problem is that I could not find everything I needed in, just like from the group buy, so I have to find the right components and make sure that it will work; that's where I will be needing your help. The latter might be challenging, since most of the stuff that you guys suggest are not available in the UK and to get them here I would have to pay a ridiculous amount of money for shipping and customs. With that in mind, I'm trying to get what I'll be needing from EU/UK shops.

Let's get started!

Main components (£173.75 - 208.75)

• 1 x Phantom PCB - mechanicalkeyboards.com (£21)
• 1 x Teensy 2.0 microcontroller - official / GB (£9)
  
  • 2 x Pin sets
  • 1 x USB Mini-B - MULTICOMP SPC20060 USB A to USB MINI B (£1.06)
• 88 x Switches (Cherry MX) - GB (£48)
• 88 x Key caps - GBs / eBay / Amazon / etc. (~£30)
• 88 x Diodes (1N4148) - VISHAY SEMICONDUCTOR 1N4148-TR (£1.84)
• 2 x LEDs (T1) - MULTICOMP MCL034WCC-WH1 3.4V (£1.04)
  
  • 2 x Resistors (for the LEDS) - MULTICOMP MCMF0W4FF1000A50 100ohm (£0.10)
  • 2 x LED spacers (5mm x 8mm D*L) - 200 Board Mount LED spacers (£2.71)
• Stabilizers (Costar or Cherry) - Costar (£4)
• 1 x TKL Mounting plate - cannot find (£25-30)
• 1 x TKL Case - Colorful replace case / Filco case? / CM QFR case? (£30-60)

Tools (£76.12)

• Soldering gun - Aoyue 937+ (£47.54)
• Desoldering pump - EDSYN US140 (£9.70)
• Soldering Wire - MULTICOMP 509-0519 60/40 0.5mm (£12.39)
• Wire Cutter - DURATOOL 8PK-25P-F SIDE CUTTER, FULL FLUSH, 125MM (£6.49)

Guides

• Building a custom Phantom Keyboard

In case you buy a keyboard (e.g., CM QFR) to use it as a case, you can source some other stuff from it to get the cost down (e.g., switches, key caps, plate, etc.).

I would really appreciate your feedback and/or any other help/tips/tricks! Also, let me know if I'm forgetting something.

[lcs]

You can find a case here: http://www.vendio.com/stores/E-sports-Gaming-equipments/item/keyboard-accessory/colorful-replace-case-filco-an/lid=31051008

or just wait for group buys on those, they pop up from time to time.

nubbinator is selling stabilizers now: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47840.0

[argyakrivos]

Thank you very much for your fast reply!

You can find a case here: http://www.vendio.com/stores/E-sports-Gaming-equipments/item/keyboard-accessory/colorful-replace-case-filco-an/lid=31051008

or just wait for group buys on those, they pop up from time to time.

nubbinator is selling stabilizers now: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47840.0

The case seems interesting, but I would prefer some more common colours (e.g. black, white, etc.). Will include this case in the first post.

As far as the stabilizers, he seems to have sold them already

[esoomenona]

Are you searching for a specific type of stabilizer? Or anything you can get your hands on?

Costar can be found here: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts-1.html

Note: if you're planing any sort of layout with a 7x spacebar, you're going to have to search independently for the stabilizer wire, whether you're using Cherry or Costar.

[argyakrivos]

Are you searching for a specific type of stabilizer? Or anything you can get your hands on?

Costar can be found here: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts-1.html

Note: if you're planing any sort of layout with a 7x spacebar, you're going to have to search independently for the stabilizer wire, whether you're using Cherry or Costar.

Thank you very much! I'm looking for 1.25x modifiers and 6.25x spacebar so I guess these should do. About to order some. Although I'd like to have some Cherry ones, since people here say that they are better.

[Photekq]

Imo, Cherry PCB stabs>Costar>Cherry plate stabs.

Since the Phantom doesn't support Cherry PCB mount stabilisers I'd personally go for costar.

[jdcarpe]

Are you searching for a specific type of stabilizer? Or anything you can get your hands on?

Costar can be found here: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts-1.html

Note: if you're planing any sort of layout with a 7x spacebar, you're going to have to search independently for the stabilizer wire, whether you're using Cherry or Costar.

Thank you very much! I'm looking for 1.25x modifiers and 6.25x spacebar so I guess these should do. About to order some. Although I'd like to have some Cherry ones, since people here say that they are better.

If you want Cherry plate mount stabilizers, the part to search for is G99-0224 (includes 2x wires) and G99-0744 (8x wire) or G99-0745 (7x wire). Mouser.com has them in the US.

[The_Beast]

Imo, Cherry PCB stabs>Costar>Cherry plate stabs.

Since the Phantom doesn't support Cherry PCB mount stabilisers I'd personally go for costar.

Agreed, but I like my PCB Mount Cherry Stabilizers to be clipped

[Photekq]

Agreed, but I like my PCB Mount Cherry Stabilizers to be clipped

Me too, although I prefer them to costar or cherry plate even without clipping.

[The_Beast]

Agreed, but I like my PCB Mount Cherry Stabilizers to be clipped

Me too, although I prefer them to costar or cherry plate even without clipping.

I like Costar a bit more than unclipped PCB Cherry.

But clipped PCB are the absolute best! So I'm slowly converting all that I can

[ITzNybble]

I would be interested in a total cost from all your parts you have found   excluding the tools needed

[acantha]

as someone who is also going to be taking this project on, this is a very helpful thread. thanks for putting it together! i asked on irc, but i suppose i'll ask here in case any other newbies, like me, finds this thread: assuming a general lack in soldering experience, how complex is this project? any prep necessary other than getting a steady hand with the iron?

[Photekq]

But clipped PCB are the absolute best! So I'm slowly converting all that I can

Yeah, they're really great. I clipped/lubed my new G80-1501 and it feels so, so much better. Also, 55g blacks are amazing

[argyakrivos]

Imo, Cherry PCB stabs>Costar>Cherry plate stabs.

Since the Phantom doesn't support Cherry PCB mount stabilisers I'd personally go for costar.

Hmm interesting - didn't know there are Cherry PCB stabs! In that case, I believe I might stick with Costar.

Are you searching for a specific type of stabilizer? Or anything you can get your hands on?

Costar can be found here: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts-1.html

Note: if you're planing any sort of layout with a 7x spacebar, you're going to have to search independently for the stabilizer wire, whether you're using Cherry or Costar.

Thank you very much! I'm looking for 1.25x modifiers and 6.25x spacebar so I guess these should do. About to order some. Although I'd like to have some Cherry ones, since people here say that they are better.

If you want Cherry plate mount stabilizers, the part to search for is G99-0224 (includes 2x wires) and G99-0744 (8x wire) or G99-0745 (7x wire). Mouser.com has them in the US.

Found them, thanks! I will try and find them on http://uk.farnell.com/ since I'm already getting some stuff from there.

I would be interested in a total cost from all your parts you have found   excluding the tools needed

I will be updating the post with a cost of each item as I'm getting them. Probably it will be high since it is not possible to get them all from one source.

as someone who is also going to be taking this project on, this is a very helpful thread. thanks for putting it together! i asked on irc, but i suppose i'll ask here in case any other newbies, like me, finds this thread: assuming a general lack in soldering experience, how complex is this project? any prep necessary other than getting a steady hand with the iron?

Thank you for your kind words. I will be writing here everything I'm doing until this project is finished. To answer your question, I don't have any experience with soldering, but after seeing almost all videos of WhiteFireDragon on youtube and reading the The Living Soldering Thread, I believe I can solder everything that is necessary for assembling the phantom.

[argyakrivos]

Do you guys have any feedback on the electrical parts (i.e., diodes, leds and resistors)?

For the diodes, I think I found the ones shipped with the phantom GB. For the LEDs and the resistors, I got a bit confused and just picked the ones I thought they might do. But honestly, I have no idea. Also, I couldn't find any LED mounts.

[jdcarpe]

Diodes: 1N4148 thru-hole
Resistors: 300 Ohm thru-hole
LEDs: 3mm (T1) with 2.5-3.5 Vf. Or 2x3x4 rectangle LEDs.

[argyakrivos]

Diodes: 1N4148 thru-hole
Resistors: 300 Ohm thru-hole
LEDs: 3mm (T1) with 2.5-3.5 Vf. Or 2x3x4 rectangle LEDs.

Thank you for this! Did you have a look at the leds I chose? I'm guessing that my diodes should be fine. As regards the LEDs, I'm concerned about their height since I've seen some with different shapes and sizes. You mentioned resistors with 300ohms. I picked 100ohms, after reading the people initially went for 75ohms and they wanted a bit more.

With the LEDs I chose, do you think that this resistor will do? or should I go for 300ohms?

[jdcarpe]

Diodes: 1N4148 thru-hole
Resistors: 300 Ohm thru-hole
LEDs: 3mm (T1) with 2.5-3.5 Vf. Or 2x3x4 rectangle LEDs.

Thank you for this! Did you have a look at the leds I chose? I'm guessing that my diodes should be fine. As regards the LEDs, I'm concerned about their height since I've seen some with different shapes and sizes. You mentioned resistors with 300ohms. I picked 100ohms, after reading the people initially went for 75ohms and they wanted a bit more.

With the LEDs I chose, do you think that this resistor will do? or should I go for 300ohms?

Oh yeah, I think that combination will work fine. And the LED should be a good fit. If you use VERY thick keycaps, and mount the LEDs in-switch, you might need to sand down the tops a bit for keycap clearance. But otherwise it should be all good.

[argyakrivos]

Diodes: 1N4148 thru-hole
Resistors: 300 Ohm thru-hole
LEDs: 3mm (T1) with 2.5-3.5 Vf. Or 2x3x4 rectangle LEDs.

Thank you for this! Did you have a look at the leds I chose? I'm guessing that my diodes should be fine. As regards the LEDs, I'm concerned about their height since I've seen some with different shapes and sizes. You mentioned resistors with 300ohms. I picked 100ohms, after reading the people initially went for 75ohms and they wanted a bit more.

With the LEDs I chose, do you think that this resistor will do? or should I go for 300ohms?

Oh yeah, I think that combination will work fine. And the LED should be a good fit. If you use VERY thick keycaps, and mount the LEDs in-switch, you might need to sand down the tops a bit for keycap clearance. But otherwise it should be all good.

Wow... I actually find this hard to believe - I picked the right LEDs and resistors! Thanks for confirming that

[oTurtlez]

The LED holders can be made from foam if you'd like to, otherwise I'm not sure you can source them unless you take them from a filco that you can also rob a case from. For a plate, they pop up every now and then in the classifieds, but I doubt another GB will run any time soon. As for stabilizers, My $0.02 would be to go costar. I had plate cherry stabs on my Phantom and the very generous Moose sent me a set of Costar and I've been in love since. Though I still have a clipped cherry stab on my spacebar because there's no such thing as a 7x costar stab that isn't custom made.

[argyakrivos]

The LED holders can be made from foam if you'd like to, otherwise I'm not sure you can source them unless you take them from a filco that you can also rob a case from. For a plate, they pop up every now and then in the classifieds, but I doubt another GB will run any time soon. As for stabilizers, My $0.02 would be to go costar. I had plate cherry stabs on my Phantom and the very generous Moose sent me a set of Costar and I've been in love since. Though I still have a clipped cherry stab on my spacebar because there's no such thing as a 7x costar stab that isn't custom made.

I just found these: http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/led-10/led-spacer-round-5mm-2-pin/dp/9555161

But there are so many of them, with different diameter and length. Does anyone have an idea regarding the measurements? I will probably be using a Filco case. 

I would really appreciate it if someone with a Filco could measure the LED spacers (external diameter and external length) for me. 

[jdcarpe]

The LED holders can be made from foam if you'd like to, otherwise I'm not sure you can source them unless you take them from a filco that you can also rob a case from. For a plate, they pop up every now and then in the classifieds, but I doubt another GB will run any time soon. As for stabilizers, My $0.02 would be to go costar. I had plate cherry stabs on my Phantom and the very generous Moose sent me a set of Costar and I've been in love since. Though I still have a clipped cherry stab on my spacebar because there's no such thing as a 7x costar stab that isn't custom made.

I just found these: http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/led-10/led-spacer-round-5mm-2-pin/dp/9555161

But there are so many of them, with different diameter and length. Does anyone have an idea regarding the measurements? I will probably be using a Filco case. 

I would really appreciate it if someone with a Filco could measure the LED spacers (external diameter and external length) for me. 

I can do this when I get home from work tonight.

[argyakrivos]

The LED holders can be made from foam if you'd like to, otherwise I'm not sure you can source them unless you take them from a filco that you can also rob a case from. For a plate, they pop up every now and then in the classifieds, but I doubt another GB will run any time soon. As for stabilizers, My $0.02 would be to go costar. I had plate cherry stabs on my Phantom and the very generous Moose sent me a set of Costar and I've been in love since. Though I still have a clipped cherry stab on my spacebar because there's no such thing as a 7x costar stab that isn't custom made.

I just found these: http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/led-10/led-spacer-round-5mm-2-pin/dp/9555161

But there are so many of them, with different diameter and length. Does anyone have an idea regarding the measurements? I will probably be using a Filco case. 

I would really appreciate it if someone with a Filco could measure the LED spacers (external diameter and external length) for me. 

I can do this when I get home from work tonight.

Thanks a lot jdcarpe, I really appreciate this!

[Tranquilite]

If you are having a hard time finding switches/case/plate/stabilizers, I recommend getting a CM quick fire rapid and scavenging all of those from there. You have to desolder all of the switches, and the case requires very minimal modification (just cut off one of the unused screw posts). You will also have to drill some holes if you don't want to mount your LEDs in switch. I did all of these things for my brother's Phantom that I built for him, and it was probably the best value for sourcing parts.

[argyakrivos]

If you are having a hard time finding switches/case/plate/stabilizers, I recommend getting a CM quick fire rapid and scavenging all of those from there. You have to desolder all of the switches, and the case requires very minimal modification (just cut off one of the unused screw posts). You will also have to drill some holes if you don't want to mount your LEDs in switch. I did all of these things for my brother's Phantom that I built for him, and it was probably the best value for sourcing parts.

That sounds interesting! One of the main reasons I'm doing this is having a plate on which I can open the switches and try out different combinations. Will a plate like that fit inside the CM QF case?

[CalmB4tehPwn]

The_Beast said he'll be doing a Vendor GB for plates in the next two months. Looking to ship after Thanksgiving. I'll let him chime in if he'd like to, just thought I'd mention it.

[argyakrivos]

The_Beast said he'll be doing a Vendor GB for plates in the next two months. Looking to ship after Thanksgiving. I'll let him chime in if he'd like to, just thought I'd mention it.

Yes, I've read about it and also expressed my interested on his thread. Looks like we're gonna be getting some plates! Thanks for bringing this up

[argyakrivos]

I was exploring case options - more specifically the CM QF case and how everything will fit. I really like the case but I'm sceptical about the rubbery coating (e.g., how long will it last?).

After taking a look at it (via various videos and photos) from the inside, I got one question. How exactly am I going to connect the cable from the Teensy to the daughter-board? I know that the Teensy has a female USB Mini-B cable. So I guess I will need a male USB Mini-B cable that will be able to connect to the daughter-board?


(taken from a CPTBadAss's post)

[domoaligato]

cut the white connector off the end and solder it to a mini usb cable corresponding to this picture.
Others have already done it.



edited: forgot it was a teensey.

[esoomenona]

Or get tjcaustin with MiMiC Cables to make an adapter cable?

[argyakrivos]

I'd prefer a cable made just for that, rather than soldering to a mini usb cable 

I take it that people with a Filco case, used the Filco cable. But did everyone with a CM QF case soldered that to a cable? Are there any photos of how it looks like?

[jdcarpe]

You don't need that little adapter daughterboard if you're using a Phantom. You might need to enlarge the hole for the USB connector in order to route the new USB cable through it.

[esoomenona]

If you take out the daughterboard, let me have it!

[domoaligato]

you could also contact tjcaustin and ask if he will make you a cable for that purpose.

[jdcarpe]

you could also contact tjcaustin and ask if he will make you a cable for that purpose.

The only problem I see with that is getting a standalone male 4-pin Molex connector to attach to a cable. They normally mount to the PCB. The female Molex connector is what TJ et al use for making Filco cables, but that is what is on the end of that daughterboard!

[argyakrivos]

If I choose to go for the CM QF case, I'd like to use a detachable cable. In that case, I think I will be using the daughterboard. Correct?

Assuming that is is correct, I will need a male Mini-B USB (from Teensy) to a female 4-pin (to daughterboard).

[tjcaustin]

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=ZDXmSm13592%2fExM4MSbmUQ%3d%3d This connector?

Shouldn't be too bad if you want to make it yourself, or I can make you one as well.

If I choose to go for the CM QF case, I'd like to use a detachable cable. In that case, I think I will be using the daughterboard. Correct?

Assuming that is is correct, I will need a male Mini-B USB (from Teensy) to a female 4-pin (to daughterboard).

Also, you could do a male mini usb to female (usb a or mini usb) and either mount it to the case or have it just kinda dangle in the empty space on the underside of the case.

[domoaligato]

tj,

I have seen quite a few people asking this same question for this mod....
might be cool to advertise you can do it in some of the phantom threads.

[MJ45]

If I choose to go for the CM QF case, I'd like to use a detachable cable. In that case, I think I will be using the daughterboard. Correct?

Assuming that is is correct, I will need a male Mini-B USB (from Teensy) to a female 4-pin (to daughterboard).

It's easy to make up a cable for a QFR case. Cut off the mini b end about 4 inches long strip the outer jacket about 2 inches cut the orignal QFR pcb header plug off and solder the wires. The color codes should match your cable. I used some 1/16 heatshrink to (put the tubes on before you solder wires) insulate the connections. Also it helps if you grind off the bump on case bottom where the screw goes for holding the top case on. The Phantom pcb does not have hole for it and it helps make clearance for the mini b connector.

[argyakrivos]

Also, you could do a male mini usb to female (usb a or mini usb) and either mount it to the case or have it just kinda dangle in the empty space on the underside of the case.

I think that sounds better. I think it's best if I mount it to the case, wouldn't like it dangling around.

It's easy to make up a cable for a QFR case. Cut off the mini b end about 4 inches long strip the outer jacket about 2 inches cut the orignal QFR pcb header plug off and solder the wires. The color codes should match your cable. I used some 1/16 heatshrink to (put the tubes on before you solder wires) insulate the connections. Also it helps if you grind off the bump on case bottom where the screw goes for holding the top case on. The Phantom pcb does not have hole for it and it helps make clearance for the mini b connector.

Aha! Now I got it! Thank you very much for the instructions and the picture

So what do you think it's best? Get male mini-usb to female mini-usb and mount it to the case (glue it somehow?) or make a cable for the QFR case just like above?

[jdcarpe]

Also, you could do a male mini usb to female (usb a or mini usb) and either mount it to the case or have it just kinda dangle in the empty space on the underside of the case.

I think that sounds better. I think it's best if I mount it to the case, wouldn't like it dangling around.

It's easy to make up a cable for a QFR case. Cut off the mini b end about 4 inches long strip the outer jacket about 2 inches cut the orignal QFR pcb header plug off and solder the wires. The color codes should match your cable. I used some 1/16 heatshrink to (put the tubes on before you solder wires) insulate the connections. Also it helps if you grind off the bump on case bottom where the screw goes for holding the top case on. The Phantom pcb does not have hole for it and it helps make clearance for the mini b connector.

Aha! Now I got it! Thank you very much for the instructions and the picture

So what do you think it's best? Get male mini-usb to female mini-usb and mount it to the case (glue it somehow?) or make a cable for the QFR case just like above?

If you're going to do-it-yourself, I really like how MJ45 accomplished his above. Classy!

[argyakrivos]

I'm already sold!

[domoaligato]

If I choose to go for the CM QF case, I'd like to use a detachable cable. In that case, I think I will be using the daughterboard. Correct?

Assuming that is is correct, I will need a male Mini-B USB (from Teensy) to a female 4-pin (to daughterboard).

It's easy to make up a cable for a QFR case. Cut off the mini b end about 4 inches long strip the outer jacket about 2 inches cut the orignal QFR pcb header plug off and solder the wires. The color codes should match your cable. I used some 1/16 heatshrink to (put the tubes on before you solder wires) insulate the connections. Also it helps if you grind off the bump on case bottom where the screw goes for holding the top case on. The Phantom pcb does not have hole for it and it helps make clearance for the mini b connector.

Show Image

a picture says a thousand words. this is exactly what I was trying to describe doing. thanks MJ45!

[argyakrivos]

a picture says a thousand words. this is exactly what I was trying to describe doing. thanks MJ45!

Indeed - got that now! Thanks to both of you!

So it seems that I will be using a QFR case after all... 

[argyakrivos]

Just ordered a CM Storm QuickFire Stealth with MX Red (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKJ2HJ6).

Total price was £73 (including shipping + customs via AmazonGlobal). The price was exactly the same with the CM Storm QuickFire Rapid with MX Red, so I went for the Stealth since it is a newer model with a same case but different key caps. Plus, I'm thinking of trying out the reds and see how they feel. In any case, I can still do an ergo-clear mod using the springs from the reds.

[argyakrivos]

I just noticed something odd and thought of writing this down, since it might help someone else.

QuickFire Rapid: http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=3060
QuickFire Stealth: http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=10035

Have a look at the dimensions:

Rapid
355(L)x135(W)x35(H) mm
14(L)x5(W)x1(H) inch

Stealth
355(L)x135(W)x35(H) mm
14(L)x5.3(W)x1.4(H) inch

I honestly don't know which numbers to believe (mm or inches?). There's definitely something wrong here. Does anyone know if they changed the dimensions?

But just in case, I cancelled my previous order for the Stealth and just purchased the Rapid, for which I know 100% that it's phantom-compatible.

[acantha]

Looking at the first post, it looks like getting the TKL plate is the only piece thats not done. i know a few people who can cnc things. is there a file somewhere online with the specs for the plate that i could give to them?

[jdcarpe]

Looking at the first post, it looks like getting the TKL plate is the only piece thats not done. i know a few people who can cnc things. is there a file somewhere online with the specs for the plate that i could give to them?

The Phantom plate drawings are on Deskthority in the Phantom keyboard thread, somewhere. I would link them now, but I am at work.

[MOZ]

Looking at the first post, it looks like getting the TKL plate is the only piece thats not done. i know a few people who can cnc things. is there a file somewhere online with the specs for the plate that i could give to them?

This thread is gold -> http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47744

[acantha]

Looking at the first post, it looks like getting the TKL plate is the only piece thats not done. i know a few people who can cnc things. is there a file somewhere online with the specs for the plate that i could give to them?

This thread is gold -> http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47744

awesome. that is indeed a thread i would describe as gold. thanks much!

edit: nevermind. cad newbie.