[GB] MIRA SE - Custom 80% Keyboard (CLOSED)

[Chachal]

I'm using Zeal stabs with screws

[Puddsy]

I'm using Zeal stabs with screws

make sure the screws aren't touching any pads on the PCB

[Chachal]

I'm using Zeal stabs with screws

make sure the screws aren't touching any pads on the PCB

I took screws off and nothing changed, but i notice something when plugin and unpluging. Sometimes 8 LEDs are working, sometimes 9 or 10. Some LEDs light up just for 0.1 sec. May it be problem with USB port?

I have also checked with different cable and different USB port in PC.

[Etherealsound]

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Dam sexy.

[Puddsy]

I'm using Zeal stabs with screws

make sure the screws aren't touching any pads on the PCB

I took screws off and nothing changed, but i notice something when plugin and unpluging. Sometimes 8 LEDs are working, sometimes 9 or 10. Some LEDs light up just for 0.1 sec. May it be problem with USB port?

I have also checked with different cable and different USB port in PC.

reflash the firmware and update the keymap

sounds very much like a firmware problem

[MythicalWagyu]

She made it safe & sound!

Pemdas - looks like I have your stabs - they'll work with my board but if you got something different and need 'em let me know and we can figure out how to get them shipped to you.

[theillumedpanda]

I‘ve used my MIRA for a week now, everything was working flawlessly until today. When I wanted to move the keyboard a little bit to the side, there was a burnt smell in the air. The underglow LEDs went crazy, flashed, turned on and off, while the burnt smell got worse. I unscrewed the case to check if there‘s a burnt spot on the PCB, but there was nothing unusual. Because I couldn‘t find the issue straight away, I plugged the PCB in without the case. There‘s no burnt smell anymore, but only 2 out of 10 underglow LEDs work. Work is the wrong word, as those two flicker.

Do you have any ideas what the issue could be? I made sure that no screw touched a pad and now removed the screws completely. Still the same.

[LightningXI]

I‘ve used my MIRA for a week now, everything was working flawlessly until today. When I wanted to move the keyboard a little bit to the side, there was a burnt smell in the air. The underglow LEDs went crazy, flashed, turned on and off, while the burnt smell got worse. I unscrewed the case to check if there‘s a burnt spot on the PCB, but there was nothing unusual. Because I couldn‘t find the issue straight away, I plugged the PCB in without the case. There‘s no burnt smell anymore, but only 2 out of 10 underglow LEDs work. Work is the wrong word, as those two flicker.

Do you have any ideas what the issue could be? I made sure that no screw touched a pad and now removed the screws completely. Still the same.

I plan to build mine tomorrow. That is worrisome news.

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk

[Chachal]

I‘ve used my MIRA for a week now, everything was working flawlessly until today. When I wanted to move the keyboard a little bit to the side, there was a burnt smell in the air. The underglow LEDs went crazy, flashed, turned on and off, while the burnt smell got worse. I unscrewed the case to check if there‘s a burnt spot on the PCB, but there was nothing unusual. Because I couldn‘t find the issue straight away, I plugged the PCB in without the case. There‘s no burnt smell anymore, but only 2 out of 10 underglow LEDs work. Work is the wrong word, as those two flicker.

Do you have any ideas what the issue could be? I made sure that no screw touched a pad and now removed the screws completely. Still the same.

Yep, just like my MIRA. I also noticed burnt smell...

[Photoelectric]

That's odd, I wonder if something is wrong the the actual PCBs.  Looking at my unassembled kit right now, the bottom under the PCB is a solid sheet of acrylic, and at the top there's the plate separated by the switches.  In theory there's the USB port that would touch the case and maybe the plate, but I see in one reported case the plate is silver anodized aluminum.  Anodized aluminum surface is non-conductive.

edit: good note about the screw-in stabilizers above, I'd make sure they are well-insulated from any pads on the PCB the screws might cover, such as by putting in small bits of electrical tape, or cut a "washer" out of electrical tape to go under the screws.  That could be the culprit.

[Puddsy]

Hmm. Static? Are you with issues using bumpons?

[Puddsy]

That's odd, I wonder if something is wrong the the actual PCBs.  Looking at my unassembled kit right now, the bottom under the PCB is a solid sheet of acrylic, and at the top there's the plate separated by the switches.  In theory there's the USB port that would touch the case and maybe the plate, but I see in one reported case the plate is silver anodized aluminum.  Anodized aluminum surface is non-conductive.

edit: good note about the screw-in stabilizers above, I'd make sure they are well-insulated from any pads on the PCB the screws might cover, such as by putting in small bits of electrical tape, or cut a "washer" out of electrical tape to go under the screws.  That could be the culprit.

uxcell M2 x 5mm x 1mm Nylon Flat Insulating Washers Gaskets Spacers Black 200PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6B5KJN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aO7xAbZ280A86

Also comes in clear

uxcell M2 x 5mm x 1mm Nylon Flat Pads Insulating Washers Gaskets Fastener White 100PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTSK5OS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.O7xAb5K2C33S

[Photoelectric]

Those look good, I'll get a set.  Were they a good thickness for your build?  For some reason I envisioned almost paper-thin washers.

[Puddsy]

Those look good, I'll get a set.  Were they a good thickness for your build?  For some reason I envisioned almost paper-thin washers.

Haven't used them yet. Bug me about it on Sunday or Monday.

[Rayoui]

I use these orthodontic ligatures for screw-in stabilizers. They were about 7 USD for 1000 pieces on ebay.

[Unforgivable]

That's odd, I wonder if something is wrong the the actual PCBs.  Looking at my unassembled kit right now, the bottom under the PCB is a solid sheet of acrylic, and at the top there's the plate separated by the switches.  In theory there's the USB port that would touch the case and maybe the plate, but I see in one reported case the plate is silver anodized aluminum.  Anodized aluminum surface is non-conductive.

edit: good note about the screw-in stabilizers above, I'd make sure they are well-insulated from any pads on the PCB the screws might cover, such as by putting in small bits of electrical tape, or cut a "washer" out of electrical tape to go under the screws.  That could be the culprit.

uxcell M2 x 5mm x 1mm Nylon Flat Insulating Washers Gaskets Spacers Black 200PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6B5KJN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aO7xAbZ280A86

Also comes in clear

uxcell M2 x 5mm x 1mm Nylon Flat Pads Insulating Washers Gaskets Fastener White 100PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTSK5OS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.O7xAb5K2C33S

Thank you for being you, and always providing good advice.

[theillumedpanda]

I use these orthodontic ligatures for screw-in stabilizers. They were about 7 USD for 1000 pieces on ebay.

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That‘d also a good way of preventing shorting. I‘ve used cardboard instead, hopefully MIRA won‘t die again...

Here you see what I‘ve done. Fingers crossed that this works.
https://imgur.com/a/b0rqK

[Photoelectric]

Heh, do you have any electrical tape? )  That'd be the most straightforward "appropriate" solution, as many of us already have electrical tape on hand. 

[theillumedpanda]

Nope, I don‘t. But cardboard should work as well, right?

[Photoelectric]

Nope, I don‘t. But cardboard should work as well, right?

Well as long as you don't accidentally spill tea on your keyboard, paper's probably okay.  But if you do, its insulating properties will be temporarily disabled if the paper gets wet.

[Puddsy]

Nope, I don‘t. But cardboard should work as well, right?

yes, but it's less attractive

[theillumedpanda]

Nope, I don‘t. But cardboard should work as well, right?

Well as long as you don't accidentally spill tea on your keyboard, paper's probably okay.  But if you do, its insulating properties will be temporarily disabled if the paper gets wet.

If I spilled tea over my keyboard, I think the cardboard itself wouldn‘t even be the worst thing, because I‘d run into the risk of shorting not only there, but also pretty much everywhere.

What can I do with the other PCB? Obviously I can‘t use that anymore.

[Photoelectric]

It might well be usable, just make sure to check it carefully outside the case, with stabilizers removed (or insulated).  Might be that a few LEDs got fried and need replacement but everything else still works.  If you have a multimeter, it'd be best, but you could start with something very simple like aquakeytest:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34670.0

to at least make sure all the switches register and the processing chip with firmware did not get damaged.

[Photoelectric]

3 Reminders for the Group Buy participants!

1.   Please fill out this survey, if you haven't already:

Here is a link to gauge interest for plates -alps, aluminum half-plates,brass, and poly-carbonate
stainless steel spacers to replace the plastic diffuser
alps PCB's
TX87 PCB's

https://goo.gl/forms/i1DOt8deZw7wdKE12

2. If you have not yet reported that you got a wrong spacebar stabilizer wire size, please let me know ASAP! (unless you don't care and are fine with your current wire size, then that's great! you're all set)

3. Use insulation between screw-in stabilizers and the PCB, such as thin insulating washers or circular cuts of electrical tape.

[Puddsy]

got together with lightingXI today and we built our MIRAs

the washers i linked before work with the screws provided for zeal stabs, no issues at all

pic cred to lightningXI, but the board is mine





Thank you so much to Photoelectric, Ninjadoc, and Eason. This is a dream come true for me, I'm so glad to finally have this board. It's even better than I thought it would be, and is absolutely worth the wait. If there was ever such thing as a perfect keyboard, I imagine this would be pretty close.

i gotta fix the LEDs tho lol i messed that up pretty bad

[eyedrop]

Very classy, Puddsy.  What switches did you end up putting in your MIRA?  Just curious.

[Puddsy]

Very classy, Puddsy.  What switches did you end up putting in your MIRA?  Just curious.

Bsun housing, MX clear stem, MX black spring.

I call it a Bsun panda clear.

Normally I'm a linear guy, and I might change over to 62g MX silents in the future. These are pretty good though, especially considering they're just a bunch of random parts I had lying around.

[LifeZ]

I'm using Zeal stabs with screws

make sure the screws aren't touching any pads on the PCB

I took screws off and nothing changed, but i notice something when plugin and unpluging. Sometimes 8 LEDs are working, sometimes 9 or 10. Some LEDs light up just for 0.1 sec. May it be problem with USB port?

I have also checked with different cable and different USB port in PC.

I'm using Zeal stabs with screws

make sure the screws aren't touching any pads on the PCB

I took screws off and nothing changed, but i notice something when plugin and unpluging. Sometimes 8 LEDs are working, sometimes 9 or 10. Some LEDs light up just for 0.1 sec. May it be problem with USB port?

I have also checked with different cable and different USB port in PC.

I think RGB LED Parts problem.
RGB LEDs is a serial connection.
Replace the first one of the LEDs that is not lit.
RGB LEd part no. WS2812 (4 pad type)

[Will_26]

got together with lightingXI today and we built our MIRAs

the washers i linked before work with the screws provided for zeal stabs, no issues at all

pic cred to lightningXI, but the board is mine

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Thank you so much to Photoelectric, Ninjadoc, and Eason. This is a dream come true for me, I'm so glad to finally have this board. It's even better than I thought it would be, and is absolutely worth the wait. If there was ever such thing as a perfect keyboard, I imagine this would be pretty close.

i gotta fix the LEDs tho lol i messed that up pretty bad

Holy balls Puddsy that is my favourite MIRA yet. Looks amazing and great photos too. Makes me wish I had gone Silver! Although I do love the grey :-)

[Chachal]

I'm using Zeal stabs with screws

make sure the screws aren't touching any pads on the PCB

I took screws off and nothing changed, but i notice something when plugin and unpluging. Sometimes 8 LEDs are working, sometimes 9 or 10. Some LEDs light up just for 0.1 sec. May it be problem with USB port?

I have also checked with different cable and different USB port in PC.

I'm using Zeal stabs with screws

make sure the screws aren't touching any pads on the PCB

I took screws off and nothing changed, but i notice something when plugin and unpluging. Sometimes 8 LEDs are working, sometimes 9 or 10. Some LEDs light up just for 0.1 sec. May it be problem with USB port?

I have also checked with different cable and different USB port in PC.

I think RGB LED Parts problem.
RGB LEDs is a serial connection.
Replace the first one of the LEDs that is not lit.
RGB LEd part no. WS2812 (4 pad type)

Thanks!

http://allegro.pl/cyfrowa-dioda-led-ws2812-b-rgb-120-stopni-2-sztuki-i7134852166.html#thumb/1 this one will be fine?

[Photoelectric]

got together with lightingXI today and we built our MIRAs

the washers i linked before work with the screws provided for zeal stabs, no issues at all

pic cred to lightningXI, but the board is mine

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Thank you so much to Photoelectric, Ninjadoc, and Eason. This is a dream come true for me, I'm so glad to finally have this board. It's even better than I thought it would be, and is absolutely worth the wait. If there was ever such thing as a perfect keyboard, I imagine this would be pretty close.

i gotta fix the LEDs tho lol i messed that up pretty bad

Wow...  Super nice. 

[LifeZ]

I'm using Zeal stabs with screws

make sure the screws aren't touching any pads on the PCB

I took screws off and nothing changed, but i notice something when plugin and unpluging. Sometimes 8 LEDs are working, sometimes 9 or 10. Some LEDs light up just for 0.1 sec. May it be problem with USB port?

I have also checked with different cable and different USB port in PC.

I'm using Zeal stabs with screws

make sure the screws aren't touching any pads on the PCB

I took screws off and nothing changed, but i notice something when plugin and unpluging. Sometimes 8 LEDs are working, sometimes 9 or 10. Some LEDs light up just for 0.1 sec. May it be problem with USB port?

I have also checked with different cable and different USB port in PC.

I think RGB LED Parts problem.
RGB LEDs is a serial connection.
Replace the first one of the LEDs that is not lit.
RGB LEd part no. WS2812 (4 pad type)

Thanks!

http://allegro.pl/cyfrowa-dioda-led-ws2812-b-rgb-120-stopni-2-sztuki-i7134852166.html#thumb/1 this one will be fine?

YES, That's right.

[LightningXI]

Here's my MIRA SE:











Puddsy types on SA (see above)

• Night Sky Blue, silver aluminum plate, integrated acrylic diffuser, brass weight insert
• Band-Aid mod + lubed Zeal Screw-in stabilizers
• Lubed Tealios, 67g.
• Weighed in at 2752 grams, built (with Cherry profile keycaps)

By far, one of the best keyboards I have built, and definitely will be one of my all-time favorites. The space-related design really makes it personally meaningful for me. I tuned my Tealio switches to reach a buttery-smooth typing experience, and I would absolutely recommend these switches, should you be able to afford the premium on ZealPC products. They're certainly not cheap switches, but very much worth it if you enjoy both their aesthetic and their typing experience.

Many thanks to Photoelectric, ninjadoc, and zzyjayfree who contributed to the design, group-buy process, and fulfillment of this design. A quick shout-out to Puddsy who is featured in this album typing on SA; I invited him to my home last night to build my and his MIRA SE. It was fun!

I hope you enjoy the pictures!

[OmegaSupreme]

Here's my MIRA SE:

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• Night Sky Blue, silver aluminum plate, integrated acrylic diffuser, brass weight insert
• Band-Aid mod + lubed Zeal Screw-in stabilizers
• Lubed Tealios, 67g.
• Weighed in at 2752 grams, built (with Cherry profile keycaps)

By far, one of the best keyboards I have built, and definitely will be one of my all-time favorites. The space-related design really makes it personally meaningful for me. I tuned my Tealio switches to reach a buttery-smooth typing experience, and I would absolutely recommend these switches, should you be able to afford the premium on ZealPC products. They're certainly not cheap switches, but very much worth it if you enjoy both their aesthetic and their typing experience.

Many thanks to Photoelectric, ninjadoc, and zzyjayfree who contributed to the design, group-buy process, and fulfillment of this design. A quick shout-out to Puddsy who is featured in this album typing on SA; I invited him to my home last night to build my and his MIRA SE. It was fun!

I hope you enjoy the pictures!

Wow! Now that's a beautiful Mira!!

[Puddsy]

Here's my MIRA SE:

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• Night Sky Blue, silver aluminum plate, integrated acrylic diffuser, brass weight insert
• Band-Aid mod + lubed Zeal Screw-in stabilizers
• Lubed Tealios, 67g.
• Weighed in at 2752 grams, built (with Cherry profile keycaps)

By far, one of the best keyboards I have built, and definitely will be one of my all-time favorites. The space-related design really makes it personally meaningful for me. I tuned my Tealio switches to reach a buttery-smooth typing experience, and I would absolutely recommend these switches, should you be able to afford the premium on ZealPC products. They're certainly not cheap switches, but very much worth it if you enjoy both their aesthetic and their typing experience.

Many thanks to Photoelectric, ninjadoc, and zzyjayfree who contributed to the design, group-buy process, and fulfillment of this design. A quick shout-out to Puddsy who is featured in this album typing on SA; I invited him to my home last night to build my and his MIRA SE. It was fun!

I hope you enjoy the pictures!

My hands btw

Thanks for hanging out, bud, was a good time

[Photoelectric]

I've been meaning to take nice photos of my pink MIRA, but I have flu, and doing anything at all has been a chore.  So tonight I decided to try and capture the textures, not so much color accuracy (the actual color of the pink is a pale and creamy "dusty rose" kind of pink, changes hue significantly based on lighting).  I'll get something more accurate in good lighting soon.

[Puddsy]

I've been meaning to take nice photos of my pink MIRA, but I have flu, and doing anything at all has been a chore.  So tonight I decided to try and capture the textures, not so much color accuracy (the actual color of the pink is a pale and creamy "dusty rose" kind of pink, changes hue significantly based on lighting).  I'll get something more accurate in good lighting soon.

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that second pic with the weight is spectacular

what set are you planning on using with it?

[Etherealsound]

Here's my MIRA SE:

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Puddsy types on SA (see above)

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• Night Sky Blue, silver aluminum plate, integrated acrylic diffuser, brass weight insert
• Band-Aid mod + lubed Zeal Screw-in stabilizers
• Lubed Tealios, 67g.
• Weighed in at 2752 grams, built (with Cherry profile keycaps)

By far, one of the best keyboards I have built, and definitely will be one of my all-time favorites. The space-related design really makes it personally meaningful for me. I tuned my Tealio switches to reach a buttery-smooth typing experience, and I would absolutely recommend these switches, should you be able to afford the premium on ZealPC products. They're certainly not cheap switches, but very much worth it if you enjoy both their aesthetic and their typing experience.

Many thanks to Photoelectric, ninjadoc, and zzyjayfree who contributed to the design, group-buy process, and fulfillment of this design. A quick shout-out to Puddsy who is featured in this album typing on SA; I invited him to my home last night to build my and his MIRA SE. It was fun!

I hope you enjoy the pictures!

Godspeed on Mira is absolutely perfect.

[Will_26]

I've been meaning to take nice photos of my pink MIRA, but I have flu, and doing anything at all has been a chore.  So tonight I decided to try and capture the textures, not so much color accuracy (the actual color of the pink is a pale and creamy "dusty rose" kind of pink, changes hue significantly based on lighting).  I'll get something more accurate in good lighting soon.

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Beautiful photos :O

[tuba section]

Getting excited, especially after seeing Photoelectrics pink wkl! Kind of regretting not getting stainless weight and plate... Any ideas when the remaining shipping invoices are going out?

[Nas]

would love to see a MIRA round 2 

[xondat]

would love to see a MIRA round 2 

See you in 3 years )

[Photoelectric]

Here's my MIRA SE:

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Puddsy types on SA (see above)

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• Night Sky Blue, silver aluminum plate, integrated acrylic diffuser, brass weight insert
• Band-Aid mod + lubed Zeal Screw-in stabilizers
• Lubed Tealios, 67g.
• Weighed in at 2752 grams, built (with Cherry profile keycaps)

All kinds of great :)  Love the Tealios, and the combination with the space-themed spherical set.

[Photoelectric]

what set are you planning on using with it?

I can't decide   The safe fall-back option is classic beige Cherry ABS with some GMK Muted accents.  I really want a set of XDA Canvas with Bauhaus legends.  Switches will be smooth stock-spring MX Clears.  But I might be waiting to do assembly until I can get an acrylic plate, we'll see.

[Puddsy]

what set are you planning on using with it?

I can't decide   The safe fall-back option is classic beige Cherry ABS with some GMK Muted accents.  I really want a set of XDA Canvas with Bauhaus legends.  Switches will be smooth stock-spring MX Clears.  But I might be waiting to do assembly until I can get an acrylic plate, we'll see.

Plate matches Jane27, so not too hard to just get one cut if you want it now.

[Chachal]

Thank you guys for help. Everything is working now. I had to replace 5 SMD LEDs to fix my board.

I also added orthodontic ligatures under the stab screws (great idea Rayoui!) and electrical tape around USB.

[ninjadoc]

Thank you guys for help. Everything is working now. I had to replace 5 SMD LEDs to fix my board.

I also added orthodontic ligatures under the stab screws (great idea Rayoui!) and electrical tape around USB.

Was there any clearance issues around the USB hole?
I sent PCB, plate, and Mira prototype to Asilan to fix that issue. If it still exists I need to know about it.
Anyone that has any issue with the USB hole on the case contacting the USB plug on the case please let me know. I will need to fix that if it is too tight. I had that issue with prototypes prior to the final design too.

[LightningXI]

Thank you guys for help. Everything is working now. I had to replace 5 SMD LEDs to fix my board.

I also added orthodontic ligatures under the stab screws (great idea Rayoui!) and electrical tape around USB.

Great news! Glad you could figure out the problem and resolve it - even though you had to go through the replacing of SMD parts.

[Unforgivable]

what set are you planning on using with it?

I can't decide   The safe fall-back option is classic beige Cherry ABS with some GMK Muted accents.  I really want a set of XDA Canvas with Bauhaus legends.  Switches will be smooth stock-spring MX Clears.  But I might be waiting to do assembly until I can get an acrylic plate, we'll see.

Plate matches Jane27, so not too hard to just get one cut if you want it now.

I think they’re different. I asked when Riot was getting Poly plates cut and was told it wasn’t going to fit.

[Puddsy]

what set are you planning on using with it?

I can't decide   The safe fall-back option is classic beige Cherry ABS with some GMK Muted accents.  I really want a set of XDA Canvas with Bauhaus legends.  Switches will be smooth stock-spring MX Clears.  But I might be waiting to do assembly until I can get an acrylic plate, we'll see.

Plate matches Jane27, so not too hard to just get one cut if you want it now.

I think they’re different. I asked when Riot was getting Poly plates cut and was told it wasn’t going to fit.

It is 1:1 with a Jane plate, as far as I can tell.