DISCLAIMER!!!
I know it's easier to desolder the switches and use a switch opener, but I'm lubing up a vintage Cherry G80-11900 keyboard and after accidentally ripping a few copper pads I'm too paranoid to keep going with that method.

I just want to remove the top housings of the switches without desoldering so I can lube them. I did that with an isolated Esc key so I know it's possible, but what methods are there to open them more consistently / quickly?

Currently using two ESD-15 tweezers to get the clips off at the same time, but there isn't enough space and I end up having to unclip each side at a time. I've been advised by others to not do this as the top housings might snap. I'll also try 3D printing something that grabs the clips from the top but it'll have to be printed with something other than PLA, otherwise I'm afraid it'll break. Thanks in advance, your attention is greatly valued ^^

is there any chance at all of getting a 1.5u r4 key in yellow in the accent kit?

what is that for?
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a very unlikely hope that it is close enough to the yellow used in GMK panels so I can use it as a 1.5u super haha

Quote from: mcmcmc on Thu, 20 August 2026, 23:39:19

Quote from: tunb on Wed, 19 August 2026, 23:31:30

please add shift 1.25 row 4 into base

i'm curious what is that for?

I assume a standard ISO layout that does split Lshift to jam the 1U NUBS key in there.

but there is not ISO in the base kit...
however, i'm looking to add a separate ISO kit instead.

One thing I’d check first is whether the issue follows the switch/key itself or stays with the same PCB position. Swapping the switch with a known-good one is a quick way to narrow it down. If the problem stays in the same position, I’d look at the socket, solder joints, or PCB traces.