1
Interest Checks / Re: [IC] GMK CYL Video 2048
« Last post by ryukomatoi on Sat, 07 November 2026, 10:42:36 »Welcome back biip with another banger. Big interest!
Recent Posts
2
Off Topic / Re: Gaming PC Parts discussion thread.
« Last post by tp4tissue on Sat, 07 November 2026, 09:20:14 »Tp4 reversing course on liquid metal.
This is not reliable. even with the gasket.
This is not reliable. even with the gasket.
3
Off Topic / Re: What's Bothering You? (The thread about what is bothering you.)
« Last post by tp4tissue on Sat, 07 November 2026, 09:10:07 »Nothing is going to change !!
There is only 1 party in 'merika.
Watch as they not give you healthcare, and increase WinRAr spendings.
There is only 1 party in 'merika.
Watch as they not give you healthcare, and increase WinRAr spendings.
4
Off Topic / Re: We's prolly spad00dled..
« Last post by tp4tissue on Sat, 07 November 2026, 08:51:59 »Why is they put liquid metal on the laptop CPU, GPU is where most of the heet is !!
5
Off Topic / Re: What's Bothering You? (The thread about what is bothering you.)
« Last post by iri on Sat, 07 November 2026, 04:54:10 »The whole world, with a handful of exceptions, is rejoicing that the Republicans got kicked to the curb in the recent election
6
Off Topic / Re: What are you watching? The thread about what you're watching.
« Last post by tp4tissue on Sat, 07 November 2026, 01:52:12 »Tried watching Odyssey again.
This movie sux. Even as a walking sim, it's not especially pretty, and Nolan seems to have done the stupid artist thing and graded it very low light ~80nits , similar to projector limits.
While there will certainly be people "joyous" over such an avantn-rebel-impressionist decision, the overall visual tone, is just bland.
Plot isn't any better the second time, just as droopy and lame.
This movie is even worse than Tenet, which was also horrible, and unnecessarily tedious.
This movie sux. Even as a walking sim, it's not especially pretty, and Nolan seems to have done the stupid artist thing and graded it very low light ~80nits , similar to projector limits.
While there will certainly be people "joyous" over such an avantn-rebel-impressionist decision, the overall visual tone, is just bland.
Plot isn't any better the second time, just as droopy and lame.
This movie is even worse than Tenet, which was also horrible, and unnecessarily tedious.
7
Off Topic / Re: RGB 1,1,1
« Last post by tp4tissue on Fri, 06 November 2026, 23:50:05 »300nits.
If you push SDR past 300 nits, the black levels don't quite have the right impact. In the lit scenes, what noise there is, is also over pronounced.
It would seem the common belief that SDR is infinitely scalable is not true.
If you push SDR past 300 nits, the black levels don't quite have the right impact. In the lit scenes, what noise there is, is also over pronounced.
It would seem the common belief that SDR is infinitely scalable is not true.
8
Group Buys and Preorders / Re: [GB] DSS Drank Round 2 - 40% Monokit
« Last post by MikeTheTiger on Fri, 06 November 2026, 21:18:26 »We officially hit MoQ earlier today! I will be closing orders Sunday, at some point, and requesting an invoice from SP. I appreciate all the support on getting this one across the finish line. I can’t wait to get these in your hands early next year.
9
Off Topic / Re: What are you watching? The thread about what you're watching.
« Last post by noisyturtle on Fri, 06 November 2026, 20:40:45 »Resident Evil.
It was fine, better than older movies, but pretty simple, like a recording of actual pc game.
I unironically love the 2nd RE movie, it is so much silly fun
10
Group Buys and Preorders / Re: [GB] F104+SSK+122+62+77+50+Ergo orders now open! Kishsaver+Industrial Model F
« Last post by Ellipse on Fri, 06 November 2026, 18:21:03 »Based on some recent conversations of mine, here is a recent writeup for folks who are unsure why to consider the new Model F instead of the many other choices out there.
How did other folks on the forum come around to the new Model F, if I may ask?
Your typing requirements would best be served by a Model F with solenoid driver and solenoid, which helps round out the sound and add the same added tactile feedback that IBM had on many of their original keyboards. I would not use a Model F for gaming, which often requires extra-light switches and near-silent operation for chatting and hearing sounds in the game. The whole point of the Model F is that it provides sufficient audible and tactile feedback to maximize typing performance and comfort according to IBM's research. There are many gaming keyboards with standard mechanical switches that can be purchased for a fraction of the cost and that all have a similar level of gaming performance to each other. Any compromise of trying to find one keyboard for these two purposes would be unwise. You can even change out the Model F's USB cable to be a USB-C extension cable so you can switch keyboards quickly, if space is limited and you can't have both connected at the same time.
Model F keyboards prove themselves after typing on them for months, and then trying to type on other keyboards and noticing almost immediately that something is missing. Every board has tradeoffs, whether in time, reliability, or financial cost. If considering restoring an original board: 2 out of 10 original boards may sound preferable to you, but not to someone else, so you could luck out or buy 10 boards to find your favorite (as I used to do in my collecting of IBM boards) or buy something new. These boards do have a ringing sound by design, characteristic of all Model F keyboards, as part of the buckling spring feedback while typing; you'll learn to like that sound or use the solenoid to mask that sound and enhance tactility (a popular option with two thousand sold).
After using a Model F for a couple months you'll realize that a pretty common objective of quiet operation is not as important a factor as you thought, and the feeling and sound feedback far outweigh the prospect of sound volume that you thought you wouldn't be able to get used to. You may have previously written down a list of features that you want in a keyboard, but many folks don't know their priorities about what products (or any life choices) would actually be best for them, because they are not asking the right questions, which can come from experience, conversation, and thorough research. The question should not be "which board is most similar to what I currently have (but better in some ways) so that I have zero theoretical risk of not liking it" but instead "what is the best board for reliability over decades as well as comfort and performance during long typing sessions, that is worth getting used to or changing my preconceptions of what I think I want." At the worst you can resell the board. I track resales and estimate that 97%+ of boards are never resold, which should tell you something about whether folks like the board (at such a high production cost for the board, you'd think people would resell to recoup the cost if they didn't like it).
Your best option to meet the above requirements is to order a new Model F and spend the least amount of time and cost possible to get the end-game board that many folks only end up with after trying out and fixing up many other keyboards. Not too many people choose to downgrade to another keyboard or restore an original after setting up a new Model F from what I have seen. As always, please read the project website for the full details to understand what you are getting, and don't assume anything. Just reading the tabs on the homepage should answer most questions.
How did other folks on the forum come around to the new Model F, if I may ask?
Your typing requirements would best be served by a Model F with solenoid driver and solenoid, which helps round out the sound and add the same added tactile feedback that IBM had on many of their original keyboards. I would not use a Model F for gaming, which often requires extra-light switches and near-silent operation for chatting and hearing sounds in the game. The whole point of the Model F is that it provides sufficient audible and tactile feedback to maximize typing performance and comfort according to IBM's research. There are many gaming keyboards with standard mechanical switches that can be purchased for a fraction of the cost and that all have a similar level of gaming performance to each other. Any compromise of trying to find one keyboard for these two purposes would be unwise. You can even change out the Model F's USB cable to be a USB-C extension cable so you can switch keyboards quickly, if space is limited and you can't have both connected at the same time.
Model F keyboards prove themselves after typing on them for months, and then trying to type on other keyboards and noticing almost immediately that something is missing. Every board has tradeoffs, whether in time, reliability, or financial cost. If considering restoring an original board: 2 out of 10 original boards may sound preferable to you, but not to someone else, so you could luck out or buy 10 boards to find your favorite (as I used to do in my collecting of IBM boards) or buy something new. These boards do have a ringing sound by design, characteristic of all Model F keyboards, as part of the buckling spring feedback while typing; you'll learn to like that sound or use the solenoid to mask that sound and enhance tactility (a popular option with two thousand sold).
After using a Model F for a couple months you'll realize that a pretty common objective of quiet operation is not as important a factor as you thought, and the feeling and sound feedback far outweigh the prospect of sound volume that you thought you wouldn't be able to get used to. You may have previously written down a list of features that you want in a keyboard, but many folks don't know their priorities about what products (or any life choices) would actually be best for them, because they are not asking the right questions, which can come from experience, conversation, and thorough research. The question should not be "which board is most similar to what I currently have (but better in some ways) so that I have zero theoretical risk of not liking it" but instead "what is the best board for reliability over decades as well as comfort and performance during long typing sessions, that is worth getting used to or changing my preconceptions of what I think I want." At the worst you can resell the board. I track resales and estimate that 97%+ of boards are never resold, which should tell you something about whether folks like the board (at such a high production cost for the board, you'd think people would resell to recoup the cost if they didn't like it).
Your best option to meet the above requirements is to order a new Model F and spend the least amount of time and cost possible to get the end-game board that many folks only end up with after trying out and fixing up many other keyboards. Not too many people choose to downgrade to another keyboard or restore an original after setting up a new Model F from what I have seen. As always, please read the project website for the full details to understand what you are getting, and don't assume anything. Just reading the tabs on the homepage should answer most questions.