As someone who still builds boards, both hotswap and solder, my take:

1. Yes, hotswap sockets are still surface-mounted/soldered on the back of PCBs.

2. The design has changed iteratively over the years but largely the same -- precautions generally apply if you're using a hotswap PCB -- you should use two hands, or at least minimal but barely sufficient force in inserting switches into them, making sure pins are lined up and not overforcing the insertion process. The same risk of having sockets pop off from the back exists, since the surface-mount soldering of the sockets is still largely the same as before, even though the integrity of the sockets' inner metal parts themselves has gotten a decent bit better (they do not "fold out" as much as before).

3. The best way to support the sockets from behind, honestly, is to take out your PCB/plate combo outside of the keyboard case, and use two hands. One hand pushing the switch, and the other hand supporting the PCB + corresponding socket from the back. If you won't / can't do that (out of convenience), then the next best thing is to just wiggle as the pins of the switch insert and place themselves relatively easily into the socket.

4. Flex cuts will affect durability in the sense that it's easier to push back and bend portions of the PCB backwards, hence applying shearing forces to the socket joints. Overall, with flex cuts, socket lifetime is probably worse if you're not careful.

5. I can't really say much about brand-based differences, but the two main sockets I've seen are Kailh-made or Gateron-made.

All in all, while personally I don't really think the trouble of soldering + desoldering is all that bad, hotswap PCBs are indeed much more of a norm (with pretty decent compatibility as well), and should be durable if you're moderately careful.

I didn't reserve the first post like a dummy, but here's the Pre-Order Details!


MB-44 v2 will be a Pre-Order & In-Stock Sale



Pre-orders will be open from November 8th through December 8th, 2025 at a price of $325 USD
Excluding tax and shipping. VAT, import duties, and/or other fees will be applicable for international customers.


MB-44 v2 kits will be available at:

• Melonbred Shop - US and International
  
• Yushakobo - Japan/Asia
  
• KeebSupply - EU
  

The MB-44 v2 kits will be available in:

• Silver
• Marimo (deep green)
• Strawberry Milk (pink)

and the kits will include:

• MB-44 v2 case (top, bottom and matte brass weight)
• Mainboard PCB
• S1 Unified Daughter Board
• Molex cable to connect the mainboard and S1 daughterboard
• FR4 universal plate
• Hardware, Geon Tadpoles, and bumpons

Extra PCBs will also be available to add to your order.[/size]

So what does Pre-Order really mean?
Pre-order means that the manufacturers have already been paid, and production will start this week. We hope this is a better alternative to a group-buy where we do not have to rely an customer purchases to fund the project. However, this comes with one minor drawback. MB-44 v2 kits will be limited to around 50 units that are split between Melonbred Shop, Yushakobo, and KeebSupply.

What happens after Pre-Order?
Pre-orders will be between November 8th through December 8th, or until pre-order units sell out. This will give some time for us to prepare packaging through the holidays, and we estimate shipping to begin in January 2026. *Please note that this is an estimate, and we will update everyone if the timeline changes.

After the Pre-Order period and orders have shipped to customers, any remaining units will be available as In-Stock at a price of $350 excluding tax, shipping and other fees (import duties).

What about resource files?

• Plate files will be available on our site and GitHub.
• PCB (KiCAD) files will be available on GitHub.
• VIAL/QMK has already been merged to VIAL main here
  

From the designer on NK discord:

There’s gonna be a Mictlan edition Classic TKL, and Mictlan edition TGR 910. Possibly a third (hope for something w an XT column)

It was the Tinkerboy controller.

What's the probability that it wasn't the PCB from 1987 that broke, but the controller from 2021? That correctly identified itself to my operating system?

Jesus ****ing Christ.