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group buys / Re: [GB] GMK Triumph Adler
« Last post by Binge on Sun, 29 March 2015, 18:44:24 »
one more set to go.
off topic / Re: What's Bothering You? (The thread about what is bothering you.)
« Last post by paicrai on Sun, 29 March 2015, 18:40:09 »
****s always expensive
classifieds / Re: [WTB] 2.75u Dolch shift
« Last post by hwood34 on Sun, 29 March 2015, 18:37:26 »
making stuff together! / Re: swill's plate building tool []
« Last post by swill on Sun, 29 March 2015, 18:35:25 »
Thanks for making this swill, I never thought designing a plate could be so easy!

I just ran a design through hoping to do a combined ISO/ANSI layout but on closer inspection the right side of the ANSI enter stabiliser has no plate at the top, so I guess we have to use PCB mount stabilisers?  I was hoping to test the layout with a handwired matrix, but that's not going to work very well so I may need a rethink :))

ISO/ANSI plates have to use PCB Cherry style stabilizers.

Thanks for confirming, even if it's not the answer I was hoping for :)
Yes. Traditionally this is the case. However, if you pick up a 2 unit enabler PCB you can PCB mount the stab and still hand wire.   If you end up wanting to go that route, pm me your address and I will mail you one.
geekhack media / Re: Post Your Kult Worship Kaps!
« Last post by hwood34 on Sun, 29 March 2015, 18:35:04 »
So, if you have a bunch of these, can you call it a Kult Kap Kollection?

Seems dodgy to me.

Anyway, those look flippin' sick. Hopefully I can get a few.

Or one.

I prefer K to the third power, or shortened k3...  :))
man I love my k3's ^-^
geekhack media / Re: Post your Korean Keyboard ^_^
« Last post by hwood34 on Sun, 29 March 2015, 18:33:55 »
Show Image

The amount of 360c s on GH is too damn high ;)
just right my man
keyboards / Re: Keyboard of the month - March - nominations!
« Last post by hwood34 on Sun, 29 March 2015, 18:32:44 »
keyboards / Re: Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)
« Last post by CPTBadAss on Sun, 29 March 2015, 18:28:45 » is finally about to restock 55g RF 87u's. Before I decide to go for it in a few days I was just wondering; (mainly for my peace of mind) as someone who initially used MX blues, and never found them too heavy or fatiguing to type on, 55g Topre should be fine too, right?

Not really an easy question and you won't get a nice clean answer. It's going to be more dependant on your tastes in switches. 55g Topre is probably a little heavier than MX Blues (I'm a Topre noob), so you'll have to decide for yourself if you like heavier switches or not.
artisan services / Re: Melvang's F revival services
« Last post by Chromako on Sun, 29 March 2015, 18:19:31 »
I found that using Naval Jelly to remove the rust on the plates can be much easier and more precise than sanding. It'll also strip off the paint IBM used on their AT plates (I can't confirm for other models, but it'll probably also work for them), which may be a good thing. It won't damage the plastic stabilizer clips.

Just wanted to help you save some time!
keyboards / Re: 45g, 55g, or Cherry MX Clears?
« Last post by Bomble on Sun, 29 March 2015, 18:15:05 »
topre is as thick as hell.  there is a relatively insane amount of shock absorbancy cause of rubber.

there is literally no shock absorbancy for mx browns.  the spring is pathetic and does not count.
When you bottom out on Topre, you don't bottom out with the rubber, but plastic key on plastic bottom -- as does Cherry MX. That would make it quite different and result in an even more rubber-dome keyboard feel (where the bottom-outs are rubber on rubber).

That's one of the reason that people use O-rings/dental bands on MX and Topre boards... it softens the landing and reduces the sound of the bottom-out (the infamous "thock" is reduced on Topre boards).

Sorry but Topre is cushioned by the rubber when bottoming out. It's soft, but not squishy. FYI the dental band/o-ring mod is put on the base of the slider, not on the switch stem as though you were o-ringing an MX board. This means that the upstroke sound is silenced, which isolates the "thock" sound, as opposed to reducing it. This happens because the mod removes the clacking of the sliders smacking against the top of the switch housing as they return to their initial position.
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