Author Topic: OK, PC Blew Up, Need Build Advice  (Read 22208 times)

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Offline Brian8bit

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« Reply #200 on: Wed, 02 March 2011, 17:10:38 »

Offline hfcobra

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« Reply #201 on: Wed, 02 March 2011, 17:33:30 »
Quote from: Brian8bit;303684
Speaking of heatsinks, I posted this on Overclockers.

http://en.expreview.com/2011/02/18/scythe-rolls-out-susanoo-cpu-cooler-with-four-fans-and-twelve-heatpipes/14739.html

SWEET JESUS!!!!  I don't think that that cooler could even fit in my HAF-X!!!  I think that they are targeting people who don't use computer cases for their rig....

Pretty small target audience if you ask me.   :(   I really want it anyways for some reason, though!   >:)    Perhaps I could just drill out a large square in the side of my computer to fit it in and then all the fans could just be intake fans!  

hmmm..... so many ways to mod the case with that awesome cooler!  Fan orientation will be my hardest decision I feel if I could get my hands on one.  Plus the weight is enormous and it is so tall that it will put much more force on the motherboard than a shorter, heavier heatsink.  I wonder how mobos will be affected by the hugeness that is that cooler.
« Last Edit: Wed, 02 March 2011, 17:52:59 by hfcobra »
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Offline instantkamera

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« Reply #202 on: Wed, 02 March 2011, 17:46:01 »
Quote from: Brian8bit;303684
Speaking of heatsinks, I posted this on Overclockers.

http://en.expreview.com/2011/02/18/scythe-rolls-out-susanoo-cpu-cooler-with-four-fans-and-twelve-heatpipes/14739.html


:jaw:
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Offline Brian8bit

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« Reply #203 on: Wed, 02 March 2011, 18:38:11 »
Quote from: hfcobra;303707
SWEET JESUS!!!!  I don't think that that cooler could even fit in my HAF-X!!!  I think that they are targeting people who don't use computer cases for their rig....


Pretty much. I don't think you could mount it from an upright board without at least attaching it to the top of your case somehow to avoid the thing bending your motherboard.

I suspect it's main use will be on test benches and the like. It'll be interesting to see just how effective it is all the same. For the life of me I can't see how it could be any better than smaller coolers.

Offline Hak Foo

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« Reply #204 on: Wed, 02 March 2011, 20:27:42 »
As for the Scythe, it reminds me of an even more audacious take on the Cooler Master GeminiII.  They took two 120mm fans, and promised to ventilate parts of the board beyond the CPU alone because of the over-hang.

It was a ***** to install (mobo removal required, many step install process) and famed for poor quality (mine made virtually no contact with the actual CPU); they ended up flogging them off at huge rebates where the net cost was like $3.
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Offline dracaXL

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« Reply #205 on: Thu, 03 March 2011, 18:20:42 »
Quote from: ripster;303793
I like how quiet the Noctua is.

4 smaller fans on that monster makes it a dead end for me.  At 40% fan speed my temp is 34c idle.


That seems a bit hot - my noctua's fans are set to minimum and I idle at 25*C in a room with an electric heater; have you overclocked the CPU?
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Offline dracaXL

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« Reply #206 on: Thu, 03 March 2011, 18:58:24 »
Bar the case, pretty much - the 600t is known to run a little hotter than others though.
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Offline tickt0ck

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« Reply #207 on: Fri, 04 March 2011, 12:49:07 »
Quote from: ripster;287348
So I'm on my trusty old DFI LanParty X48 and Q6700 @ 3.6 downstairs PC for about 5 minutes after power on and POOF!  Off goes the PC and I get a good sniff of burnt electronics.  Pull it out and put on my HSPC tech station with a spare power supply and confirm it's the motherboard (or maybe the chip -  am not sure how to tell).

Bummer, Doooood.

So I've been thinking it's new build time anyway so I'll toss the QC6700/RAM in a box for another day and start a new build.  I'll admit I don't hang out in the HardForum and OCN motherboard/CPU forums so I need some advice on this Sandy Bridge Build.   I've been eying the reviews and it looks like a good time for a new build.

I've got these in my Shopping Cart at Newegg and will pull the trigger this weekeng.  Any gotcha's anybody sees?  Primary application will be standard computing stuff, heavy photo and especially Video Editing (AVCHD is a *****).  Not a lot of gaming and I'm not really into the dual slot video card thing but it looks like I need to go upmarket a bit to get all those juicy USB 3.0 ports and eSata.  And yah, I'll OC it some.  But maybe not enough to burn up the motherboard this time - temps were fine but maybe the power boost did the DFI in over the 2/3 years.


Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 8MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor


ASUS P8P67 Deluxe LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard


G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)


I'm tempted to get a Intel or OCZ SSD drive even though it probably won't help the video editing much.  And do I really need 120G?

Wow, thats a bit ironic. My DFI Lan Party II went out on me too in the not so distant past. Ended up getting a Asus Rampage III formula. I like it quite a bit. Smokes the old box.

Offline Phaedrus2129

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« Reply #208 on: Wed, 16 March 2011, 10:49:32 »
I'd have picked the Thinkpad X120e over the HP. Similar guts, better keyboard and housing. Although I don't think Lenovo offers an SSD as an option on the X120e, and if they did it would be one of those crappy Samsung ones. But that's nothing a quick aftermarket upgrade won't fix, and there's no warranty sticker to break. ;)
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Offline DanGWanG

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« Reply #209 on: Wed, 16 March 2011, 16:02:57 »
Quote from: ripster;310492
Sandy Bridge Motherboards Rev3s now all over Newegg.  I got an Email from Newegg giving me options for replace/return and will be doing a advance RMA option - they send the replacement and I turn around and send the bad one back (gotta love Newegg!).

Bad one.
Show Image


In other news I'm so fond of SSD I have a SSD HP DM1z NOTbook on the way.

Meanwhile the INTC Dinosaur lumbers on, meteors don't affect it but climate change might.
Show Image


Did you change your watermark for any particular reason?

Offline instantkamera

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« Reply #210 on: Sat, 19 March 2011, 11:13:12 »
Micron = Crucial. I think he meant that the X120e would come with samsung, if it came with an ssd at all.

Why anyone would buy an ultra-portable (or any computer) without an SSD is beyond me.

So Rip, how is that vs. your old atom netbook in terms of overall usability and ****?
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Offline keyboardlover

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« Reply #211 on: Sun, 20 March 2011, 12:30:20 »


While you were gone I formed a mild obsession with memegenerator.net

Offline iMav

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« Reply #212 on: Sun, 20 March 2011, 12:36:37 »
I had an HP 2140HD that I really enjoyed.  Replaced it with a 11.6" gateway that I got off of woot.  Replace the gateway with a maxed out 11.6" Macbook Air.  

I don't think I would hesitate to pick up another HP netbook if the need arises.

Offline DanGWanG

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« Reply #213 on: Wed, 23 March 2011, 14:06:09 »
Quote from: ripster;305006
DFI Lanparty.  So many BIOS options it looks like it is designed by engineering trolls.


It is a LANparty afterall.

Offline hfcobra

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« Reply #214 on: Wed, 23 March 2011, 14:17:48 »
Quote from: ripster;316915
I'm rusty on the whole OCing thing.

Somebody tell me what BIOS button settings to push for a clean Sandy Bridge Medium overclock. A jillion people must have my exact same build now that Intel has gotten their $1B writeoff act together (I wonder if iMav will get a Christmas bonus this year?).  Nothing fancy.  I was happy with my Q6700 at 3.6 so I'm not looking to fry anything (again).


just fiddle with the multi and voltages.  I dont remember the max safe voltage for the Sandy Bridge CPU's, but I think it was something like 1.35Vcore.  I doubt you will get that high though since you are not overclocking it a ton.

Don't mess with the BCLK because it is now tied to the PCI bus speed which get very unstable very quickly when the BCLK is increased.
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Offline DanGWanG

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« Reply #215 on: Wed, 23 March 2011, 14:25:45 »
Most motherboards these days come with a Dummy OC/Auto AI Tweak, that typically OC's just enough without touching voltages.  Though, they don't always work perfectly, so manual adjustments usually need to be made...

But....I'm sure you've already seen this.

Offline hfcobra

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« Reply #216 on: Wed, 23 March 2011, 14:44:49 »
those auto OC things never really work that well from what I have seen.  Despite what the 3 step guide says I would still not recommend going much past 1.35Vcore.  SB is 35nm tech and that is more heat sensitive than the 45nm i7s and whatnot.  So less voltage can cause damage.  The SB's overclock like it is their job though, so you will most likely get where you want to go without much trouble.  :)

Just look up the max voltages for certain settings for a SB rig and just dont pass them while keeping good temps when stress testing and you will be fine.

That Noctua will cool whatever OC you can possibly want so there really isn't a  reason to worry.  My i7 920 at 4.2 is still going strong with the D-14 after almost a year and no problems at all.

Good luck with the OC btw!  :thumb:

EDIT: Just out of curiosity, what is your exact setup?
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Offline DanGWanG

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« Reply #217 on: Wed, 23 March 2011, 16:18:45 »
I believe it's in the first post:

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Offline hfcobra

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« Reply #218 on: Wed, 23 March 2011, 20:10:06 »
well the "quite different" is just that you overclock with the multiplier only instead of the BCLK and the Multi.  You can make a post over at OCN and see if you can get any advice from them if you like.   :)
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Offline hfcobra

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« Reply #219 on: Wed, 23 March 2011, 20:32:06 »
lol, why is that?

EDIT: OMFG 30K posts ripster!
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Offline keyboardlover

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« Reply #220 on: Wed, 23 March 2011, 20:35:31 »

Offline keyboardlover

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« Reply #221 on: Wed, 23 March 2011, 20:42:31 »
Wow, a SENIOR moderator? What's that, like 9th grade?

Offline hfcobra

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« Reply #222 on: Wed, 23 March 2011, 20:46:38 »
lol, that is rather funny if true.  You do post a lot though   :P   double posting is a little annoying I have found though so they really dont make any exceptions to keep the annoying posters from double posting, even if they have to tell you not too or something.  That whole deal, you know?
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Offline hfcobra

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« Reply #223 on: Wed, 23 March 2011, 22:35:42 »
Quote from: ripster;317331
This is my rig.

How do I OC it?



First you should download RealTemp, Prime95, the Intel Burn Test, and Memtestx86.

Just start by finding the memory's max overclock while maintaining stability at the rated voltage.  Found on the sticker on the side of the RAM stick, but I am sure you knew that.  I just set the memory to the settings on the sticker since RAM does not really add much speed unless you are really looking for every last bit of performance out of your machine.  When you set it at the rated timings, clock speed, and voltage, download an ISO of memtestx86 and put that on a CD to test that the RAM is stable at stock speeds.  If not you can RMA it or just run it slower or add more voltage to it.  Since it will most likely be stable at stock speeds you can either decide to overclock it or not, although I dont see much of a point in overclocking RAM when it is no longer tied to overclocking the CPU.

Then lower the RAM speed to somewhere around 800MHz or lower (it really doesnt matter so long as you are sure it will be stable, just put it well under the RAM specs) and find the CPU's multi that you would like to run it with.  Adjust the voltage when you lose stability.  Increase from x20 to x21 and reboot, repeat.  If it fails to boot add the smallest amount of Vcore possible then try again.  (the x20 is just the normal multi for an i7, I am not sure what the stock multi for a SB CPU is but you should start from there and not from x20 of course!)  The max multi for the CPU you have is x57, but I dont think you will get anywhere near that since you dont have liquid helium on standby for cooling lol.

When you find that just put the RAM at the timings that you want along with the CPU and boot.  If it boots then good for you, run the Intel Burn Test for 150-200 runs at max stress level and Prime95 on mixed for 10 hours or overnight to be sure that it is stable.  Watch the temps, if they get to high for you then lower your clock on the CPU and adjust the voltage to keep stability.  

When you are all done with that and the system is where you want it then you can be done or you can try for a higher overclock if your temps are lower than expected.  Intel suggests not passing 67C and with the Intel Burn Test you will put the CPU in a stressful situation that it will never EVER see in real world usage, so usually anything under 80C in IBT is considered fine.  I prefer staying under 75C and during the test my CPU maxes the temp at 69C.

Just follow this and don't do anything crazy and you should be fine!  Just so you know I have not had the pleasure of overclocking a SB CPU yet but I understand the process so you can take my advice or leave it.

People over at OCN have been hitting 4.7+GHz on air, so you should be able to hit 4.0-4.4 without much trouble or any huge temps.  If you have any problems then you might want to ask someone over there for help though, just reading about the process doesnt really help when troubleshooting I am sorry to say.   :(
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Offline hfcobra

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« Reply #224 on: Wed, 23 March 2011, 22:42:54 »
Quote from: ripster;317373
tl;dr

I've overclocked before.  I just need the settings for a medium OC for that specific config.


well even rigs with the same parts will differ, that is why you should just do it yourself.  Someone else's setting might not be stable on you computer, even with the same parts.  Even the ambient room temp will make a difference sometimes.
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Offline elbowglue

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« Reply #225 on: Thu, 31 March 2011, 13:50:46 »
Not trying to turn this into OCN or anything but,

I'm thinking about making a new i5-2500k rig,
anyone know a decent P67 motherboard that is
1) inexpensive
2) supports 2x pci-e for crossfire
3) will support a moderate overclock (maybe 4.5ghz)
4) pretty fast to POST?

Thanks.

Oh and Ripster you're such a troll =)
« Last Edit: Thu, 31 March 2011, 13:54:03 by elbowglue »
My keyboards: Filco Cherry Blue Tenkeyless(daily home), Compaq MX11800 (modded to blacks), Compaq "MX 84u",  Wellington\'s Dampened Endurapro, Pinkalicious Filco Blue Cherry, Chicony KB-5191, Chicony KB-5181, Desko MOS 5023 UP "elbowglue" spos (modded to blues), Siig Minitouch (monterey blue), SMK-88 (blue cherries), Ricercar SPOS
Smallest to biggest keyboards in inches (Length X Height) - Length is most important for a midline mouse position

KBC Poker: 11.6 x 3.9 - HHKB: 11.6 x 4.3 - Siig Minitouch (Geekhack Space Saver): 11.6 x 6 - Deck/Tg3 82: 12 x 6 - Noppoo Choc Mini 12.4 x 5.3 - Compaq "MX 84u": 13.1 x 7.5 - Filco Tenkeyless: 14 x 5.3 - Cherry "ricercar spos" G86-62410EUAGSA: 14 x 7.75 - Topre Realforce 86u: 14.4 x 6.65 - Desko "elbowglue spos" MOS 5023 UP: 14.5 x 8.4 - IBM Model M Spacesaver: 15.3 x 7 - G80-1800: 15.9 x 7.1 - Adesso MKB-125B: 16 x 7.3 - Compaq Mx11800, Cherry G80-11900: 16.25 x 7.5 - Filco Standard: 17.3 x 5.4 - Unicomp Endurapro: 17.9 x 7.1 - Adesso MKB-135B: 18.3 x 6.0 - Cherry G80-3000: 18.5 x 7.6 - IBM Model M, Unicomp Customizer: 19.3 x 8.27

Offline elbowglue

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« Reply #226 on: Thu, 31 March 2011, 13:56:14 »
Quote from: ripster;317373
tl;dr

I've overclocked before.  I just need the settings for a medium OC for that specific config.


I think you may have to wait for some time for someone with your exact setup to crop up.  Just consider changing the multiplier a few notches up until it becomes unstable, then back it down a few notches.  You may be able to get some increased Overclocks out of it at stock voltage.  That's what I would do at least.
My keyboards: Filco Cherry Blue Tenkeyless(daily home), Compaq MX11800 (modded to blacks), Compaq "MX 84u",  Wellington\'s Dampened Endurapro, Pinkalicious Filco Blue Cherry, Chicony KB-5191, Chicony KB-5181, Desko MOS 5023 UP "elbowglue" spos (modded to blues), Siig Minitouch (monterey blue), SMK-88 (blue cherries), Ricercar SPOS
Smallest to biggest keyboards in inches (Length X Height) - Length is most important for a midline mouse position

KBC Poker: 11.6 x 3.9 - HHKB: 11.6 x 4.3 - Siig Minitouch (Geekhack Space Saver): 11.6 x 6 - Deck/Tg3 82: 12 x 6 - Noppoo Choc Mini 12.4 x 5.3 - Compaq "MX 84u": 13.1 x 7.5 - Filco Tenkeyless: 14 x 5.3 - Cherry "ricercar spos" G86-62410EUAGSA: 14 x 7.75 - Topre Realforce 86u: 14.4 x 6.65 - Desko "elbowglue spos" MOS 5023 UP: 14.5 x 8.4 - IBM Model M Spacesaver: 15.3 x 7 - G80-1800: 15.9 x 7.1 - Adesso MKB-125B: 16 x 7.3 - Compaq Mx11800, Cherry G80-11900: 16.25 x 7.5 - Filco Standard: 17.3 x 5.4 - Unicomp Endurapro: 17.9 x 7.1 - Adesso MKB-135B: 18.3 x 6.0 - Cherry G80-3000: 18.5 x 7.6 - IBM Model M, Unicomp Customizer: 19.3 x 8.27

Offline elbowglue

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« Reply #227 on: Thu, 31 March 2011, 14:07:10 »
Quote from: ripster;322127
Oooops.  Maybe not.  

 

Maybe I got finally banned?



Yeah I got the same server error.  Looks like they banned everyone.
My keyboards: Filco Cherry Blue Tenkeyless(daily home), Compaq MX11800 (modded to blacks), Compaq "MX 84u",  Wellington\'s Dampened Endurapro, Pinkalicious Filco Blue Cherry, Chicony KB-5191, Chicony KB-5181, Desko MOS 5023 UP "elbowglue" spos (modded to blues), Siig Minitouch (monterey blue), SMK-88 (blue cherries), Ricercar SPOS
Smallest to biggest keyboards in inches (Length X Height) - Length is most important for a midline mouse position

KBC Poker: 11.6 x 3.9 - HHKB: 11.6 x 4.3 - Siig Minitouch (Geekhack Space Saver): 11.6 x 6 - Deck/Tg3 82: 12 x 6 - Noppoo Choc Mini 12.4 x 5.3 - Compaq "MX 84u": 13.1 x 7.5 - Filco Tenkeyless: 14 x 5.3 - Cherry "ricercar spos" G86-62410EUAGSA: 14 x 7.75 - Topre Realforce 86u: 14.4 x 6.65 - Desko "elbowglue spos" MOS 5023 UP: 14.5 x 8.4 - IBM Model M Spacesaver: 15.3 x 7 - G80-1800: 15.9 x 7.1 - Adesso MKB-125B: 16 x 7.3 - Compaq Mx11800, Cherry G80-11900: 16.25 x 7.5 - Filco Standard: 17.3 x 5.4 - Unicomp Endurapro: 17.9 x 7.1 - Adesso MKB-135B: 18.3 x 6.0 - Cherry G80-3000: 18.5 x 7.6 - IBM Model M, Unicomp Customizer: 19.3 x 8.27

Offline Vittra

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« Reply #228 on: Thu, 31 March 2011, 15:24:56 »
I've got a 2600K/Gigabyte UD7-B3/8GB G.Skill ECO.

I have however worked with an Asus board recently, the Sabertooth P67 (B3).

When it comes to Sandybridge, the chips don't matter. You can have 2 people with the same batch number have wildly different results, it's a lot more "luck of the draw" than it used to be.

Pretty much every 2600K I've seen regardless of motherboard has been able to hit 4.3-4.4ghz on STOCK/AUTO settings (yes, including core voltage) by simply raising the multiplier. That'd be 43x or 44x respectively.

Hitting 4ghz is easy and worthwhile. Go into the UEFI, swap to advanced settings, go to the AI Tweaker tab

1) Set Turbo Ratio to "By All Cores". This will let you just select one value for all the 4 cores to OC to.
2) Change CPU Multi setting to 40x
3) Set Memory Frequency to 1600
4) Enter the DRAM Timing Control screen
5) Set the timings for your ram manually, 9-9-9-24
6) Exit the DRAM timing screen, scroll down on AI Tweaker and ensure DRAM voltage is set to 1.5V

That's it really. You can let the board deal with the vcore set to AUTO at 4.0ghz. Personally I wouldn't since I'm a bit OCD about having things as efficient as possible, but it would be just fine if you are feeling lazy.
Filco MJ Linear R LE TKL

Offline audioave10

  • Posts: 498
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« Reply #229 on: Fri, 10 June 2011, 11:01:36 »
Hey, that worked out good! nice setup
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Offline Lpb45

  • Posts: 481
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« Reply #230 on: Wed, 15 June 2011, 16:28:48 »
Quote from: ripster;357539
Time for a UPDATE!!!

First the boring stuff.  I upgraded the 1TB to a 2TB WD Black - booooorrrriiiinnnggg.

Then a Dell U3011.  The 30".  Velly nice.

Then my sound card died.  After posting in the headphone thread and getting rotten advice I decided on the Claro HT Omega Claro Halo with XT (they need to shorten that name).

Since this isn't HeadFi I'm not going into any tech speak on this stuff - just showing pics.

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Hi-End Amp on a card
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This sound card is sheer awesomeness despite being Korean.
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Replaceable OpAmps if I go headfihigh
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XT addon card.  I would have bought the ASUS if I could find their elusive 7channel version of this.
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The RCA jacks are a revelation after years of flimsy nonstandard Creative submini jacks.  PLIIX and DTS 5.1 FTW.
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But WAIT, there's MOAR.  The U3011/F2001 WallOlcds means my Mackie HR824 monitors sitting on the table top were obscured.  So first I looked into wall mounting 40lb monitors and decided that would be too much work so decided to put one on a pedestal and the other on another higher part of the desk.

So I grabbed a testbed speaker box I had and painted it with my favorite DIY speaker combo, oil based black paint over MDF and then a few coats of truckbed liner.  Then I sprayed another board and screwed it to the top to make a nice strong speaker stand.
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Gives a nice pebbly and tough finish.  
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Then I went a bit off the deep end and instead of my former packing foam pads I used for monitor isolation I got the PrimaAcoustics with a 5 degree angle downfiring.

I was disappointed opening up the box.  WTF - $100 for a piece of foam and some metal?  AM I BACK AT HEADFI!!
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Actually the metal panel is impressive.  Weighs a ton and has a nonslip pad on top.  The foam itself didn't look anything special to me.
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Fire up the rears...I should become a TruckLiner salesman.
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Using my Yamaha 4 channel amp MX-35.  I have two of these cheap off of ebay a long time ago.
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Putting it all together.
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And final result.
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It's just awesome for cranking out the sound.  Surprising enough I did do testing both A/B with Right/Left channel with/without the Primacoustics switching with the 1/4" ghetto pad solution and indeed I do hear a lot tighter bass.  Stupid audiophile equipment - when will it end!

Sounds great though.
(Attachment Link) 18968[/ATTACH]

IMO the 2001fp is horribly out of place.  Was that an IPS model?
Topre - 86U   |   Filco - Tenkeyless Linear Red
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Offline slueth

  • Posts: 577
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« Reply #231 on: Wed, 15 June 2011, 18:12:57 »
hah told you to get the halo claro or was it someone else to get a halo  :X tbh asus stuff sucks.  Did you switch it to the higher ohm setting? also you can replace those op amps if you wanna try different ones.  burr browns.
« Last Edit: Wed, 15 June 2011, 18:15:27 by slueth »

Offline nathanscribe

  • Posts: 171
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« Reply #232 on: Sat, 20 August 2011, 14:13:38 »
Ah now you see proper speaker isolation does make a difference, it's a practical thing and has real physics in it.  Unlike that batsh*t nonsense about putting wooden cones or whatever at strategic points in the room to counteract resonance or realign shakras or something.  Or paying a four-figure sum for five feet of power cable.

I've been thinking about getting some of those Primacoustics or similar; there are a couple of cheaper models that might do.
Conquering the world with BASIC since 1982

Offline AlleyViper

  • Posts: 101
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« Reply #233 on: Mon, 29 August 2011, 11:19:03 »
TN panels rotated vertically are almost impossible to use :p

Nice sound setup, usually any PC that lands into my desk is connected to a KA-3080R and a pair of Wharfedale Modus Four speakers (second hand/NOS). Most times using a way cheaper Oxygen HD based card (Asus DX), that comes with decent CS 4398 only for the front stereo. I simply can't stand sub-woofers when listening to music.
« Last Edit: Mon, 29 August 2011, 11:24:13 by AlleyViper »

Offline AlleyViper

  • Posts: 101
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« Reply #234 on: Mon, 29 August 2011, 11:24:55 »
TN panels rotated vertically are almost impossible to use :p

Nice sound setup, usually any PC that lands into my desk is connected to a KA-3080R and a pair of Wharfedale Modus Four speakers (second hand/NOS). Most times using a way cheaper Oxygen HD based card (Asus DX), that comes with decent CS 4398 only for the front stereo. I simply can't stand sub-woofers when listening to music.