keycap DIY

[Matt3o]

I wanted to try to make my own keycaps, so I got some silicone and epoxy resin... and I must say that it's harder than it seems

1) I made the key a little thicker filling some resin into it



2) bi-adhesive tape on the key



3) the key positioned together with 3 reference pins



4) silicone... wait 24h



5) 24h later



6) coat with vaseline



7) mold ready!



8 ) end result



Unfortunately the stem is not perfect and I have to redo the male part of the mold, but I'm quite satisfied as a first try. I need to find a thicker keycap to make the mold, the one I have is too thin, not really good for molding.

[i3oilermaker]

Wow that looks awesome! Where did you get your materials?

[boost]

Nice. But where's the fill port?

[Matt3o]

I've found everything in a local arts and crafts store.

There are many kinds of silicone for molding, being the key so small I took the smoothest one (it is called "10 shore" I believe). It has a very long dry out period (24h) but you don't have to worry about air bubbles since they mostly evaporate in the first couple of hours.

The epoxy resin is the clearest I've found, it is mixed with the reagent at 1/4 proportion and when wet it's smooth like baby oil.

I already ordered some thicker PBT keycaps to make a better mold. I must say it's a time consuming task and you have very little margin for error.

Nice. But where's the fill port?

I tried without it. I just put the resin into the female and closed with the (resin coated) male mold.

[Mugen]

Without the fill port you'll have a hard time getting a cap without air bubbles. also - from experience would recommend building a small vacuum chamber that will basically suck the air out of the cast. You can build one with ~30$, in the process of building one myself - waiting for my pump.

Boost did you use a vacuum chamber with your molds?

[__red__]

You were far more successful than I.

My mold was perfect but my keys had bubbles, lots of bubbles.

Let us know how you progress!

[boost]

Boost did you use a vacuum chamber with your molds?

Nope. Got a ****ton of bad keys. Lol.

[funkymeeba]

What we really could use is a nice wiki page that details this whole process. It doesn't seem overly scientific, but does seem like something that will take some effort to do well.

[Mugen]

What we really could use is a nice wiki page that details this whole process. It doesn't seem overly scientific, but does seem like something that will take some effort to do well.

That would definitely be helpful, but I think only someone like Clack can put something really good together as it seems he mastered the technique.
I dont know of anybody else who does it that consistently.

[funkymeeba]

Maybe with what the rest of us presently know, yes. However, there's plenty of smart people here. Someone's bound to come up with a good way to do it.

[Matt3o]

I've found a vert good epoxy resin, if you put it into the stem before closing the mold it's close to impossible to have bubbles. As you can see from the picture the key turned out very clean. But I'm still a noob I probably have to trash a dozen molds before mastering the technique, next time I'll try with vents.

[SmallFry]

That sir, was super cool! Congrats on the cap!

[Mugen]

I've found a vert good epoxy resin, if you put it into the stem before closing the mold it's close to impossible to have bubbles. As you can see from the picture the key turned out very clean. But I'm still a noob I probably have to trash a dozen molds before mastering the technique, next time I'll try with vents.

Can you post a picture of the Resin youre using? with standard caps everything goes well, but if you try to cast something with more complex details (like a face with eyes and a mouth) then the risk of bubbles greatly increases.
I should get my pump tomorrow after which i'll probably be spending the weekend putting together with a chamber and running some pressure tests, if its successful (and maybe if it isn't) i'll post the details here.
So far all the materials cost me ~35-40$ but im sure i'm forgetting something and will have to stop by homedepot or what not.

[Matt3o]

you are right, I was not considering complex keys. Looking forward to seeing your report.

The resin is an Italian product called SIRIOEPOS 552 (http://www.archiproducts.com/en/products/52183/andromeda-chemical-anchor-sirioepos-552-proind.html). It's not properly for casting but it's really good.

They define it "superfluid" and it really is, it's almost watery for the first 5 minutes. When it is still fluid brush it into the mold taking care to fill all the holes, then fill the female mold and wait few minutes for the resin to become gelly, at that point you can close the mold. You shouldn't have any bubbles in this way.

[__red__]

The resin I use is specifically designed for precision parts so is specifically designed to have no shrinkage.


Did your resin shrink during curing?

[Matt3o]

no shrinking whatsoever

[Paranoid]

nicely done I'm gonna make some myself but still waiting for my materials to arrive. You definitely need a fill port and (at least) one to let the air out.
I don't own any vacuum equipment, nor do I have knowledge to build one myself, so hoping that some vibrating will get all the bubbles out.

[Mugen]

The resin I use is specifically designed for precision parts so is specifically designed to have no shrinkage.


Did your resin shrink during curing?

What Resin is that?

nicely done I'm gonna make some myself but still waiting for my materials to arrive. You definitely need a fill port and (at least) one to let the air out.
I don't own any vacuum equipment, nor do I have knowledge to build one myself, so hoping that some vibrating will get all the bubbles out.

If you have a laundry machine, you can just place your cast on that - it worked for me. problem is i live in an apartment building with a shared laundry room, so people were looking at me weird when I brought my Resin >_<

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

Would like to learn how to do this myself someday.  What kind of plastic did you use to make they key itself?

[Matt3o]

epoxide resin. it's a 2 components resin which solidify at room temperature. You can also color it by adding some pigment

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

Must find these materials... WANT TO MAKE MY OWN CAPZ!!!!

Any chance you could post some links to where I might be able to purchase said materials?

[Matt3o]

I took them from a local retailer (they do not sell online) but I believe you can find pretty much everything you need here http://www.smooth-on.com/Model-Making/c1290/index.html

The silicone I used is close to what they call "Mold Max 10". They don't seem to have the resin I used, anyway they have interesting howtos and faqs, I'm sure you'll find all you need.

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

Thanks, I'll look into that.  Hopefully I can make my own custom keycaps someday like this...

[Matt3o]

a quick update, while waiting for the new thicker keycaps to arrive I've found a local dealer which sells epoxy pigments in the following selection http://www.ralcolor.com/

Add 1% of pigment (which is a gel/paste) for a transparent effect, add 10% to get a solid color.

[Matt3o]

Another very interesting find. Transparent silicone rubber so you can see if and where you have bubbles:



More info http://www.prochima.com/public/eng/CRISTAL%20RUBBER%20ing.pdf

[Paranoid]

If you have a laundry machine, you can just place your cast on that - it worked for me. problem is i live in an apartment building with a shared laundry room, so people were looking at me weird when I brought my Resin >_<

Damn, why didn't I think of that I'll have to stand on a ladder for that though since the dryer is on top of the washer ^^

Another very interesting find. Transparent silicone rubber so you can see if and where you have bubbles

That's the silicone that I'm gonna use, and am comfortable with. That way you can also make easier cuts in difficult molds. I'm just curious how it's gonna go without a whole lab (like in college). Still waiting for it to arrive

a quick update, while waiting for the new thicker keycaps to arrive I've found a local dealer which sells epoxy pigments in the following selection http://www.ralcolor.com/

Add 1% of pigment (which is a gel/paste) for a transparent effect, add 10% to get a solid color.

Is the brand called ralcolor or are these just the color codes?

[Matt3o]

Is the brand called ralcolor or are these just the color codes?

I think RAL is the color code.

[__red__]

The resin I use is specifically designed for precision parts so is specifically designed to have no shrinkage.


Did your resin shrink during curing?

What Resin is that?

I use GI-1000 for my silicone and OC-7086 for my resin.

This is the kind of accuracy you can get with these resins:

Red

[__red__]

I am currently casting a couple of Model M caps, a Model F barrel and a Model F full key.  I'll report back when I know how they come out.

[Matt3o]

how long does it take to your resin to cure? I've found a resin that cures in 30 minutes (the one I used before takes 18h) and I'm temped to try it

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

I am going to order myself some of these materials later this week and will try to make myself some homemade keycaps.  I might try casting some of the small SiiG MiniTouch F keys, along with some MX keycaps, of course... can't wait to try this out!  Thanks for posting this thread, Matt3o!

[__red__]

how long does it take to your resin to cure? I've found a resin that cures in 30 minutes (the one I used before takes 18h) and I'm temped to try it

Sorry, let me give you a more specific answer:
GI-1000 (Used to create molds) -> 16-18 hours cure time.  I de-mold it usually in about 6-8 hours.

OC-7086 - (Water-clear urethane) -> You can remove it from the mold in 3 - 4 hours.  Strictly speaking it doesn't fully cure for a week but you likely wouldn't notice any difference between 24 hours and 1 week unless you had test equipment.

GI-1000 is expensive at $14.50 per lb (2lb quantity) or $10 per lb (10lb quantity).  It's so worth it.

Unless you are willing to invest in a lot of effort, vacuum chamber, pressure pot and incredible attention to detail I would not recommend OC-7086 as it is incredibly sensitive to everything and will form bubbles with the slightest excuse.

I'm currently testing other urethanes to look for a more practical for home use formulation.

EDIT:
After discussing my requirements with their chemist, I'm going for IE-3080 from innovative-polymers.com.

[fl0w3n]

Post more pictures of results!

I'd be interested in trying this as well. 

Would doing some sort of small print out with some sort of special paper/ink, and then laying it in the mold give you the ability to make caps with images? 

[__red__]

Two different resins, no vacuum or pressure.

Mold release and patience will improve the quality.  Specifically, the bad habit I have of opening molds 12 hours too early.

[Matt3o]

not bad at all. I agree patience is the key

I'm still waiting for the keycaps to make the new mold, at this point I believe they got lost in post office. Next week I'll order more, maybe from Europe this time, are qwerkeys keycaps thick?

[__red__]

feature=youtu.be

Working Model F prototype.  Now to cast in clear-glass!

[Mugen]

Where can i order this fast resin stuff? the resin that i have hardens in like 90 seconds but i get bubbles like a mofo. so far my attempt to build a chamber has not gone well, pump is not strong enough.

[Matt3o]

feature=youtu.be

Working Model F prototype.  Now to cast in clear-glass!

 

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

Just ordered all the stuff I need to make myself some homemade keycaps!  Can't wait to get them in the mail... will post my first attempts once I get them.  Thanks for the links, Matt3o!

[Mugen]

Just ordered all the stuff I need to make myself some homemade keycaps!  Can't wait to get them in the mail... will post my first attempts once I get them.  Thanks for the links, Matt3o!

Where did you make the order, the company i spoke to only did the orders by phone, same?

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

I ordered from this site:

http://www.smooth-on.com/Model-Making/c1290/index.html

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

Just got these in the mail today:



Time to try out this DIY keycap-making process...

[Wess]

Just got these in the mail today:

(Attachment Link)

Time to try out this DIY keycap-making process...

Looks great!! ... Now what will you make? Pics plz Would be great if you documented the whole process in a separate thread

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

I'll be sure to do that when I make another mold.  I started making the first half of the mold about an hour ago, but it's gonna have to cure overnight before I can make the second half.  It's my first time doing this, so I'm not expecting anything great.  I'll post pics soon.

[rowdy]

Take your time the first time around - once you are familiar with the process you will know when you can cut corners and when not.

[Computer-Lab in Basement]

^This.  That's why I'll probably end up by letting the mold cure for a few extra hours so I don't end up my messing it up or something...

[__red__]

It's counter-intuitive but the thinner the part, the longer the urethane takes to cure.

[neeb]

Any update/new pics on this guys? Really awesome work so far! I want to give this a try when I have some extra money

[proest]

Wow, this is awesome! I think I'll try this out...

[__red__]

This it's using easy-cast.  I would recommend against it's use as it's too flexible.