Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[Melvang]

where do people make out picture of keycaps for picture? is there program of doing it, or people just make it by photoshop?
like these few picture

Show Image

Show Image

(pic from google, pretty sure the first one is from originative, not sure about the second one)

http://www.keyboard-layout-editor.com/

[rowdy]

Also: http://lab.cubiq.org/kbcc/#YBP,NN,NN,YBP

[Photekq]

Show Image

This one is from Originative. It's a mockup made by GMK.

[BlueBär]

I got the file from there, but it seems they have no measurements

I don't understand a thing about CAD, though, maybe I'm wrong XD

How do you mean they have no measurements? The unit is mm I think.

Any specifics for those who have Cherry and why they like it more as well? I'm trying to convince myself of
whether or not I should give a try at a set before dropping $50. 'would like to know everything that is
"oh so great" about Cherry .

You are kind of asking for opinions, and I don't think this is the thread for it.

[lcs]

How do you mean they have no measurements? The unit is mm I think.

I have no idea XD The guy is asking me for the thickness and the length of each part and I have no idea what to say XD

[BlueBär]

I have no idea XD The guy is asking me for the thickness and the length of each part and I have no idea what to say XD

Tell him the measurements are in the file. You can open one of he files with a program like QCad yourself and use the measuring tool, you will see that it has measurements. I don't know what else to say )

[lcs]

I have no idea XD The guy is asking me for the thickness and the length of each part and I have no idea what to say XD

Tell him the measurements are in the file. You can open one of he files with a program like QCad yourself and use the measuring tool, you will see that it has measurements. I don't know what else to say )

OK Thanks

[Larken]

How do you mean they have no measurements? The unit is mm I think.

I have no idea XD The guy is asking me for the thickness and the length of each part and I have no idea what to say XD

The measurements are in mm.

He might be confused about the thickness of the material you want to use, as those aren't specified in the file.
The thickness of the layers required would be 3mm for top and bottom layers, and 4.5mm for the middle three layers, or in inches:

1/8"
3/16"
3/16" <--- mounting plate
3/16"
1/8"

keep in mind that most acrylic sheets being sold has a +/- 10% variance, so you could get away with a slight difference sometimes depending on where you get your plates cut.

[damorgue]

In the Pitched Black GB, I asked why people thought Cherry Profile was better than OEM.
From what I've gathered, people tend to like the typing experience on it more.

Any specifics for those who have Cherry and why they like it more as well? I'm trying to convince myself of
whether or not I should give a try at a set before dropping $50. 'would like to know everything that is
"oh so great" about Cherry .

Cherry profile has a far more advanced and thought out shape. The radii of the edges isn't constant, and approaches zero at the sharp bottom corners. Unlike DCS, there is not flat edge at the bottom which breaks of the surface. This makes them look more exact and they line up more perfectly as squares. DCS looks a bit thrown together and don't really fit together as they have a large radii at the bottom. There are also far more prominent spruce marks on DCS profile keys.  Cherry profile is also often associated with Cherry font which a majority appears to find more visually appealing. I don't even care about feel, I simply find them to be a lot more visually appealing over all. All of these reasons also apply in the comparison with OEM profile. In addition, OEM just looks tall and wobbly imo.

[lcs]

How do you mean they have no measurements? The unit is mm I think.

I have no idea XD The guy is asking me for the thickness and the length of each part and I have no idea what to say XD

The measurements are in mm.

He might be confused about the thickness of the material you want to use, as those aren't specified in the file.
The thickness of the layers required would be 3mm for top and bottom layers, and 4.5mm for the middle three layers, or in inches:

1/8"
3/16"
3/16" <--- mounting plate
3/16"
1/8"

keep in mind that most acrylic sheets being sold has a +/- 10% variance, so you could get away with a slight difference sometimes depending on where you get your plates cut.

Thank you so much!

[CPTBadAss]

where do people make out picture of keycaps for picture? is there program of doing it, or people just make it by photoshop?
like these few picture

Show Image

Show Image

(pic from google, pretty sure the first one is from originative, not sure about the second one)

Answer is in the OP.

Any specifics for those who have Cherry and why they like it more as well? I'm trying to convince myself of
whether or not I should give a try at a set before dropping $50. 'would like to know everything that is
"oh so great" about Cherry .

You are kind of asking for opinions, and I don't think this is the thread for it.

Personal preference. I think the profile fits my hands nicer. If you're not sure, go find a cheap G81-XXXX keyboard for about $20-30 on ebay and harvest the caps to try. Like BlueBar said, it's an opinion whether or not it's for you. No one here will be able to tell you what you like.

[gameaholic]

With the MOQ for GMK down to 250 I am considering running my first group buy.  Is there a guide on how to do a group buy?  Who would be the best people in the community to show me how to do it?

[CPTBadAss]

With the MOQ for GMK down to 250 I am considering running my first group buy.  Is there a guide on how to do a group buy?  Who would be the best people in the community to show me how to do it?

No there's no guide. You should look through the GB's section to see which GB runner you like the most and talk to them.

[Photekq]

With the MOQ for GMK down to 250 I am considering running my first group buy.  Is there a guide on how to do a group buy?  Who would be the best people in the community to show me how to do it?

I think you should talk to Ivan if you plan on doing a GB with GMK..

[CPTBadAss]

A question for an issue I'm having. I have an MY1800 case that I'm trying to use as a case for a Leeku 1800 PCB.

Show Image

Show Image

There are those posts and they seem to be molded to the top and bottom of the case. Is the case really not able to be taken apart? Or am I missing something? Proper model number is G81-1800LUMUS-2/03.

More pictures.

With the MOQ for GMK down to 250 I am considering running my first group buy.  Is there a guide on how to do a group buy?  Who would be the best people in the community to show me how to do it?

I think you should talk to Ivan if you plan on doing a GB with GMK..

He's not the only person who has contact with GMK though.

[tbc]

can AHK detect right shift separately from left shift?

[Melvang]

I don't think so since they send the same scan code to my knowledge but I could be wrong.

[tbc]

I use sharpkeys and it can detect right-shift separately (although maybe not on my macbook)

[Candyflip]

Are the holes in the plate for the switches in the CAD files I found somewhere here are the kind of holes that you can open a switch without desoldering? If not does anyone have a CAD file with those kind of holes, maybe a tkl plate?

[yasuo]

Are the holes in the plate for the switches in the CAD files I found somewhere here are the kind of holes that you can open a switch without desoldering? If not does anyone have a CAD file with those kind of holes, maybe a tkl plate?

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47744

[Candyflip]

Are the holes in the plate for the switches in the CAD files I found somewhere here are the kind of holes that you can open a switch without desoldering? If not does anyone have a CAD file with those kind of holes, maybe a tkl plate?

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47744

I know that thread, care to read my question please.

[yasuo]

you mean square holes like matt3o plate/permanet plate holes

[Candyflip]

you mean square holes like matt3o plate/permanet plate holes

I don't know his plate, but I was thinking more of like WFD and The_Beast plate that was in GB.

[yasuo]

you mean square holes like matt3o plate/permanet plate holes

I don't know his plate, but I was thinking more of like WFD and The_Beast plate that was in GB.

WFD plate can open switch,matt3o is permanet(just square shapes) in MOZ CAD Thread,many plates like WFD plate

[Candyflip]

you mean square holes like matt3o plate/permanet plate holes

I don't know his plate, but I was thinking more of like WFD and The_Beast plate that was in GB.

WFD plate can open switch,matt3o is permanet(just square shapes) in MOZ CAD Thread,many plates like WFD plate

Yea that was my initial question if the MOZ CAD thread contained that kind of plates, thanks!

[CPTBadAss]

And I don't have POM . Wait, this board had POM caps??

Most likely. Lasered black cherry kbs almost always sue POM.

I'm looking to replace the Cherry PBT caps on my Epsilon with Cherry Doubleshot ABS or POM. I *think* these boards have POM on them but I'm not sure. As far as I know, the Black Lasered Cherry Keyboards have POM as quoted by dorkvader and in the DT wiki. The beige sets are lasered PBT like the set I have now. Can someone verify this for me?

Edit: Asked around and it seems like the response is "90% sure it's POM." Since the board was so cheap, I picked it up and we'll find out for sure when I get it in hand.

[Photoelectric]

Anyone have a stock Filco spacebar as well as a keyboard with Cherry stabilizers?  If so, could that person/people please try the Filco spacebar on the Cherry stabilized keyboard and tell me if there are any fit / movement-restricting issues?  If yes, then do you perhaps have an EK universal black spacebar to try the same thing?

[CPTBadAss]

Anyone have a stock Filco spacebar as well as a keyboard with Cherry stabilizers?  If so, could that person/people please try the Filco spacebar on the Cherry stabilized keyboard and tell me if there are any fit / movement-restricting issues?  If yes, then do you perhaps have an EK universal black spacebar to try the same thing?

Don't have an EK universal but I do have a stock Filco Ninja spacebar and a GMK spacebar to compare. I don't have any fit or movement issues. Tested on my Pure.

[Photoelectric]

Could you test on a KMAC, if that one has Cherry stabilizers?  I don't have this issue with my other spacebars--only the Filco one.  Trying to figure out if it's my particular spacebar.  Thanks very much!

[CPTBadAss]

Could you test on a KMAC, if that one has Cherry stabilizers?  I don't have this issue with my other spacebars--only the Filco one.  Trying to figure out if it's my particular spacebar.  Thanks very much!

Yes, my KMAC has clipped Cherry PCB stabilizers. With the stock Filco spacebar, I have no fitment issues on this board.

[Photoelectric]

Thank you.  I guess it's something with my spacebar version then.  I have zero issues with my other spacebars, but this one's clearly having trouble on both of my Cherry-stabilized keyboards    Ducky Shine spacebar, 2 DSA spacebars, and a thin PBT spacebar from KBC are all perfect.

[HPE1000]

Why do cherry mx blue stems have little dots or points on the top of them?

[CPTBadAss]

Why do cherry mx blue stems have little dots or points on the top of them?

(Picture from DT Wiki)

It's a sprue mark from the injection molding process. Upon a quick inspection from the DT Wiki pictures, it seems like some of the switches (MX White, Green, Blue) have the sprue mark in the top part of the stem. Others have it in the side of the stem (MX Reds, Browns)

[Zeal]

Why do cherry mx blue stems have little dots or points on the top of them?

Show Image

(Picture from DT Wiki)

It's a sprue mark from the injection molding process. Upon a quick inspection from the DT Wiki pictures, it seems like some of the switches (MX White, Green, Blue) have the sprue mark in the top part of the stem. Others have it in the side of the stem (MX Reds, Browns)

I thought the plastic nub on the side meant the switch was audible & clicky...

And everything else that doesn't click has the notch on the stem.

[CPTBadAss]

I thought the plastic nub on the side meant the switch was audible & clicky...

And everything else that doesn't click has the notch on the stem.

I agree and how they accomplish making that is probably with the sprues and sprue marks.

[yasuo]

Thick plate is usually 1,5mm
how if i uses 2mm i want more solid?

[MJ45]

I thought the plastic nub on the side meant the switch was audible & clicky...

And everything else that doesn't click has the notch on the stem.

I agree and how they accomplish making that is probably with the sprues and sprue marks.

I don't believe they are sprue marks but are a stem identification besides the color. All the cherry switches that I have also have notches (linear + tactile) and only the tactile clicky have both stem notches and a nub. I have Cherry MX blue,brown,red,black new & vintage, grey and clear. These differences can be seen here http://imgur.com/a/RJqM4 in Ripsters stem guide.

[Melvang]

Thick plate is usually 1,5mm
how if i uses 2mm i want more solid?

While it will work but you may have to glue the switches into the plate because the plate will be to thick for the switch to grab the bottom side.  If you want a thicker plate to make it more solid I would just layer 2 plates.  The holes in the bottom plate will need to be slightly larger though from the top to the bottom of the switch and for all plate mount stabilizers as well.  Then just screw them together.

[McWilloughby]

The keyboard I'm using doesn't have a windows key, does anyone know of an alternative keyboard shortcut (to windows key + L) for locking windows?

[Puddsy]

The keyboard I'm using doesn't have a windows key, does anyone know of an alternative keyboard shortcut (to windows key + L) for locking windows?

You can probably use autohotkey to bind a function key to windows key.

[CPTBadAss]

The keyboard I'm using doesn't have a windows key, does anyone know of an alternative keyboard shortcut (to windows key + L) for locking windows?

Ctrl + Alt + Delete then click Lock Windows?

I thought the plastic nub on the side meant the switch was audible & clicky...

And everything else that doesn't click has the notch on the stem.

I agree and how they accomplish making that is probably with the sprues and sprue marks.

I don't believe they are sprue marks but are a stem identification besides the color. All the cherry switches that I have also have notches (linear + tactile) and only the tactile clicky have both stem notches and a nub. I have Cherry MX blue,brown,red,black new & vintage, grey and clear. These differences can be seen here http://imgur.com/a/RJqM4 in Ripsters stem guide.

Think you're missing the point I'm trying to make. Yes I agree that the nubs and notches are another form of identification. I'm saying that the nub is made from a sprue mark.

[MJ45]

Your probably right about that.

[jdcarpe]

The keyboard I'm using doesn't have a windows key, does anyone know of an alternative keyboard shortcut (to windows key + L) for locking windows?

Ctrl + Alt + Delete then click Lock Windows?

I thought the plastic nub on the side meant the switch was audible & clicky...

And everything else that doesn't click has the notch on the stem.

I agree and how they accomplish making that is probably with the sprues and sprue marks.

I don't believe they are sprue marks but are a stem identification besides the color. All the cherry switches that I have also have notches (linear + tactile) and only the tactile clicky have both stem notches and a nub. I have Cherry MX blue,brown,red,black new & vintage, grey and clear. These differences can be seen here http://imgur.com/a/RJqM4 in Ripsters stem guide.

Think you're missing the point I'm trying to make. Yes I agree that the nubs and notches are another form of identification. I'm saying that the nub is made from a sprue mark.

But then wouldn't even non-clicky switches have some kind of sprue mark in that location??

[HPE1000]

The keyboard I'm using doesn't have a windows key, does anyone know of an alternative keyboard shortcut (to windows key + L) for locking windows?

Ctrl + Alt + Delete then click Lock Windows?

I thought the plastic nub on the side meant the switch was audible & clicky...

And everything else that doesn't click has the notch on the stem.

I agree and how they accomplish making that is probably with the sprues and sprue marks.

I don't believe they are sprue marks but are a stem identification besides the color. All the cherry switches that I have also have notches (linear + tactile) and only the tactile clicky have both stem notches and a nub. I have Cherry MX blue,brown,red,black new & vintage, grey and clear. These differences can be seen here http://imgur.com/a/RJqM4 in Ripsters stem guide.

Think you're missing the point I'm trying to make. Yes I agree that the nubs and notches are another form of identification. I'm saying that the nub is made from a sprue mark.

But then wouldn't even non-clicky switches have some kind of sprue mark in that location??

I don't see anything similar anywhere on this mx brown switch I have sitting here.

Also, this might not be the perfect place to ask this, but where is the best/cheapest place to get vintage black switches?

[SpAmRaY]

The keyboard I'm using doesn't have a windows key, does anyone know of an alternative keyboard shortcut (to windows key + L) for locking windows?

Ctrl + Alt + Delete then click Lock Windows?

I thought the plastic nub on the side meant the switch was audible & clicky...

And everything else that doesn't click has the notch on the stem.

I agree and how they accomplish making that is probably with the sprues and sprue marks.

I don't believe they are sprue marks but are a stem identification besides the color. All the cherry switches that I have also have notches (linear + tactile) and only the tactile clicky have both stem notches and a nub. I have Cherry MX blue,brown,red,black new & vintage, grey and clear. These differences can be seen here http://imgur.com/a/RJqM4 in Ripsters stem guide.

Think you're missing the point I'm trying to make. Yes I agree that the nubs and notches are another form of identification. I'm saying that the nub is made from a sprue mark.

But then wouldn't even non-clicky switches have some kind of sprue mark in that location??

I don't see anything similar anywhere on this mx brown switch I have sitting here.

Also, this might not be the perfect place to ask this, but where is the best/cheapest place to get vintage black switches?

They come up in the classifieds for cheap fairly often.

[Pacifist]

How possible is it to get 2X right shifts?

[Melvang]

The keyboard I'm using doesn't have a windows key, does anyone know of an alternative keyboard shortcut (to windows key + L) for locking windows?

Ctrl + Alt + Delete then click Lock Windows?

I thought the plastic nub on the side meant the switch was audible & clicky...

And everything else that doesn't click has the notch on the stem.

I agree and how they accomplish making that is probably with the sprues and sprue marks.

I don't believe they are sprue marks but are a stem identification besides the color. All the cherry switches that I have also have notches (linear + tactile) and only the tactile clicky have both stem notches and a nub. I have Cherry MX blue,brown,red,black new & vintage, grey and clear. These differences can be seen here http://imgur.com/a/RJqM4 in Ripsters stem guide.

Think you're missing the point I'm trying to make. Yes I agree that the nubs and notches are another form of identification. I'm saying that the nub is made from a sprue mark.

But then wouldn't even non-clicky switches have some kind of sprue mark in that location??

I don't see anything similar anywhere on this mx brown switch I have sitting here.

Also, this might not be the perfect place to ask this, but where is the best/cheapest place to get vintage black switches?

The cheapest way I have found to get cheap blacks is from e-recycling shops.  I have got 3 WYSE boards for a total of $9.  Two of there were vintage and not sure on the third.

[HPE1000]

The keyboard I'm using doesn't have a windows key, does anyone know of an alternative keyboard shortcut (to windows key + L) for locking windows?

Ctrl + Alt + Delete then click Lock Windows?

I thought the plastic nub on the side meant the switch was audible & clicky...

And everything else that doesn't click has the notch on the stem.

I agree and how they accomplish making that is probably with the sprues and sprue marks.

I don't believe they are sprue marks but are a stem identification besides the color. All the cherry switches that I have also have notches (linear + tactile) and only the tactile clicky have both stem notches and a nub. I have Cherry MX blue,brown,red,black new & vintage, grey and clear. These differences can be seen here http://imgur.com/a/RJqM4 in Ripsters stem guide.

Think you're missing the point I'm trying to make. Yes I agree that the nubs and notches are another form of identification. I'm saying that the nub is made from a sprue mark.

But then wouldn't even non-clicky switches have some kind of sprue mark in that location??

I don't see anything similar anywhere on this mx brown switch I have sitting here.

Also, this might not be the perfect place to ask this, but where is the best/cheapest place to get vintage black switches?

The cheapest way I have found to get cheap blacks is from e-recycling shops.  I have got 3 WYSE boards for a total of $9.  Two of there were vintage and not sure on the third.

Sounds good, I would ideally like to find a keyboard with vintage blacks and either dyesub or doubleshot keycaps I could throw on my poker or something. I will keep my eyes out.

[Melvang]

So I have this terminal board that I want to eliminate the PCB and hand wire the matrix for a practice exercise for when I get to my full custom build and have a couple questions.

1.  Some of the holes in the plate are loose enough that they switches almost fall out just flipping the board over.  About a third of them came out with the cap.  This is after desoldering the switches though.  Do you guys think I could just put a bit of fingernail polish on the edges of the hole to tighten them up?  I don't want to glue them in as I want to be able to swap the stems and springs in it at a later date.

2.  The space bar is PCB mount cherry.  These don't feel that bad since there isn't the extra foot on the bottom to hit the pcb.  Do you guys think I could just cut the bottom row off the PCB and cut the traces and just solder the wires to the trace so I can keep full diodes?  Also another reason I was wanting to do this is so I don't have to make a PCB just for the bottom row.

I know I could just use Soarers firm ware and wire the teensy in that way but I want to do the hand wired matrix for practice since this is going to be how my Brushed Behemoth is going to be built. 

Comments questions or suggestions are all helpful.

[SpAmRaY]

So I have this terminal board that I want to eliminate the PCB and hand wire the matrix for a practice exercise for when I get to my full custom build and have a couple questions.

1.  Some of the holes in the plate are loose enough that they switches almost fall out just flipping the board over.  About a third of them came out with the cap.  This is after desoldering the switches though.  Do you guys think I could just put a bit of fingernail polish on the edges of the hole to tighten them up?  I don't want to glue them in as I want to be able to swap the stems and springs in it at a later date.

2.  The space bar is PCB mount cherry.  These don't feel that bad since there isn't the extra foot on the bottom to hit the pcb.  Do you guys think I could just cut the bottom row off the PCB and cut the traces and just solder the wires to the trace so I can keep full diodes?  Also another reason I was wanting to do this is so I don't have to make a PCB just for the bottom row.

I know I could just use Soarers firm ware and wire the teensy in that way but I want to do the hand wired matrix for practice since this is going to be how my Brushed Behemoth is going to be built. 

Comments questions or suggestions are all helpful.

What about hot glue?