Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[sethk_]

I have found an MX black switch, or at least a switch with a black slider w/ an extremely light bottom out force, lighter than an MX red. Using nickels to measure the weight, it bottomed out at 35g. This is on an old keyboard that had a Big Ass Enter. Does anyone have any info on this?

[njbair]

I have found an MX black switch, or at least a switch with a black slider w/ an extremely light bottom out force, lighter than an MX red. Using nickels to measure the weight, it bottomed out at 35g. This is on an old keyboard that had a Big Ass Enter. Does anyone have any info on this?

I believe all Cherry MX switches were black at one point. They didn't start color-coding them until later. Maybe this set is old enough for that?

[sethk_]

I have found an MX black switch, or at least a switch with a black slider w/ an extremely light bottom out force, lighter than an MX red. Using nickels to measure the weight, it bottomed out at 35g. This is on an old keyboard that had a Big Ass Enter. Does anyone have any info on this?

I believe all Cherry MX switches were black at one point. They didn't start color-coding them until later. Maybe this set is old enough for that?

It is, which intrigues me more, as it still is a weight I have never seen before.

[njbair]

I have found an MX black switch, or at least a switch with a black slider w/ an extremely light bottom out force, lighter than an MX red. Using nickels to measure the weight, it bottomed out at 35g. This is on an old keyboard that had a Big Ass Enter. Does anyone have any info on this?

I believe all Cherry MX switches were black at one point. They didn't start color-coding them until later. Maybe this set is old enough for that?

It is, which intrigues me more, as it still is a weight I have never seen before.

Sounds like they're red-equivalents, softened slightly over time.

Do you like them?

[sethk_]

I have found an MX black switch, or at least a switch with a black slider w/ an extremely light bottom out force, lighter than an MX red. Using nickels to measure the weight, it bottomed out at 35g. This is on an old keyboard that had a Big Ass Enter. Does anyone have any info on this?

I believe all Cherry MX switches were black at one point. They didn't start color-coding them until later. Maybe this set is old enough for that?

It is, which intrigues me more, as it still is a weight I have never seen before.

Sounds like they're red-equivalents, softened slightly over time.

Do you like them?

Yeah, but I wouldn't put all of them on a board, maybe when I desolder this one I will get a TechKeys 1u and throw it on there for a macro

[Blaise170]

Alright, 91% iso it is.

And since I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, I think I'll try it with this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1DtY2VwSyY&t=1m21s

LOL  )

I might actually do this.... Anyways, what is recommended solution for cleaning switches, isopropyl / water mix?

I just use 91% isopropyl and no water.

Also does anyone have any open source cad files for a tkl case?

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47744.msg1019782#msg1019782

Think it's litster's case.

Thanks, but I was thinking about a cnc milled one. How much do you think it would cost for someone to make me a 3d model of a case?

A lot, especially if they have to prototype it.

[llovro]

Alright, 91% iso it is.

And since I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, I think I'll try it with this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1DtY2VwSyY&t=1m21s

LOL  )

I might actually do this.... Anyways, what is recommended solution for cleaning switches, isopropyl / water mix?

I just use 91% isopropyl and no water.

Also does anyone have any open source cad files for a tkl case?

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47744.msg1019782#msg1019782

Think it's litster's case.

Thanks, but I was thinking about a cnc milled one. How much do you think it would cost for someone to make me a 3d model of a case?

A lot, especially if they have to prototype it.

Well that's the point. I only need cad files because my friend can machine it for me for free.

link=topic=40501.msg1762017#msg1762017 date=1432856229]

Alright, 91% iso it is.

And since I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, I think I'll try it with this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1DtY2VwSyY&t=1m21s

LOL  )

I might actually do this.... Anyways, what is recommended solution for cleaning switches, isopropyl / water mix?

I just use 91% isopropyl and no water.

Also does anyone have any open source cad files for a tkl case?

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=47744.msg1019782#msg1019782

Think it's litster's case.

Thanks, but I was thinking about a cnc milled one. How much do you think it would cost for someone to make me a 3d model of a case?

Download and learn FreeCAD. It's simple once you learn it. And there are tons of docs and videos out there.

Well I dont know if its worth to learn how to work in freecad since I would use it only for this keyboard, or maybe I will give it a try since its summer break. Do you have any particular tutorials that you found useful for making a keyboard case?

[asgeirtj]

Concerning this GB
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71212.0

Resistors are for leds right?  so if Im not going to use leds i don't need resistors?  would this pcb fit in a kul case?  or in a tex aluminum case? where would i find a wkeyless plate for this if it wouldn't be included?

[CPTBadAss]

Concerning this GB
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71212.0

1) Resistors are for leds right?  so if Im not going to use leds i don't need resistors? 
2) would this pcb fit in a kul case?  or in a tex aluminum case?
2) where would i find a wkeyless plate for this if it wouldn't be included?

1) No you need them for the keyboard to work. I'm not sure. I think the matrix needs resistors diodes and I believe they're needed for KRO. You can read this wonderful blog from Komar to understand how diodes work within the keyboard matrix. Also look at Step 8 in this build log. You can see how the KMAC PCB has a silkscreen instructing the builder to add diodes for every switch.

2) I'm going to guess no for KUL and stock Filco case compatibility. Look at this picture of a Filco TKL case (from here) and this picture of a KUL case (from here). See those little mounting standoffs? The PCB needs to accomodate them. You can see how the PCBs do that here for the KUL and here for the Filco. See how there's holes in the PCB? Now compare these PCBs to the KMAC one (from here). No holes for the standoffs right? So I think the PCB won't fit correctly. That being said I've never tried it myself.

Now for the Vortex aluminum case? It won't fit either because of the placement of the USB port. Look at 9:09 in WFD's video. You can clearly see there's a difference in the USB location of the Vortex TKL Filco case versus the KMAC case.

Finally for the TEX aluminum case, I think there's an issue with the USB port again. But I can't seem to find a picture of the bottom of the TEX case. However, if it fits the Filco PCB, I'm going to guess there's some standoffs. Also I don't know if the PCB sizes are the same. I don't have one to measure unfortunately.

3) Use swill's plate tool and get one made for yourself. There's no ready source of TKL plates as far as I know. Maybe GON or Winkeyless (The Korean Maker) have them but the shipping from Korea would be pricey. I don't really know of a currently stocked source with TKL plates though.

Edited to reflect this post.

[sethk_]

Concerning this GB
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71212.0

1) Resistors are for leds right?  so if Im not going to use leds i don't need resistors? 
2) would this pcb fit in a kul case?  or in a tex aluminum case?
2) where would i find a wkeyless plate for this if it wouldn't be included?

1) No you need them for the keyboard to work. I think the matrix needs resistors and I believe they're needed for KRO. You can read this wonderful blog from Komar to understand how resistors work within the keyboard matrix. Also look at Step 8 in this build log. You can see how the KMAC PCB has a silkscreen instructing the builder to add resistors for every switch.

2) I'm going to guess no for KUL and stock Filco case compatibility. Look at this picture of a Filco TKL case (from here) and this picture of a KUL case (from here). See those little mounting standoffs? The PCB needs to accomodate them. You can see how the PCBs do that here for the KUL and here for the Filco. See how there's holes in the PCB? Now compare these PCBs to the KMAC one (from here). No holes for the standoffs right? So I think the PCB won't fit correctly. That being said I've never tried it myself.

Now for the Vortex aluminum case? It won't fit either because of the placement of the USB port. Look at 9:09 in WFD's video. You can clearly see there's a difference in the USB location of the Vortex TKL Filco case versus the KMAC case.

Finally for the TEX aluminum case, I think there's an issue with the USB port again. But I can't seem to find a picture of the bottom of the TEX case. However, if it fits the Filco PCB, I'm going to guess there's some standoffs. Also I don't know if the PCB sizes are the same. I don't have one to measure unfortunately.

3) Use swill's plate tool and get one made for yourself. There's no ready source of TKL plates as far as I know. Maybe GON or Winkeyless (The Korean Maker) have them but the shipping from Korea would be pricey. I don't really know of a currently stocked source with TKL plates though.

Winkeyless doesn't have readily available plates, and doesn't do any aluminum, but if you email him through the website you could probably get just an acrylic plate, but I am not sure if it would work with the KMAC pcb that is being made unless monstermask made it himself

[CPTBadAss]

Winkeyless doesn't have readily available plates, and doesn't do any aluminum, but if you email him through the website you could probably get just an acrylic plate, but I am not sure if it would work with the KMAC pcb that is being made unless monstermask made it himself

I'm not going to lie. After my experience with acrylic plates, I'm hesitant to recommend them to people. Never felt like they had enough support and stability for my tastes.

And I really need to poke around some of these sites and figure out what they do and don't have.

[sethk_]

Winkeyless doesn't have readily available plates, and doesn't do any aluminum, but if you email him through the website you could probably get just an acrylic plate, but I am not sure if it would work with the KMAC pcb that is being made unless monstermask made it himself

I'm not going to lie. After my experience with acrylic plates, I'm hesitant to recommend them to people. Never felt like they had enough support and stability for my tastes.

Yeah, I feel you on that one. His are nice if you get one of his boards though because it is 2 layers of acrylic plate so I felt no flex at all and it felt solid like a metal plate and didn't flex like a single layer of acrylic plate, but felt softer than a metal plate

[CPTBadAss]

I have found an MX black switch, or at least a switch with a black slider w/ an extremely light bottom out force, lighter than an MX red. Using nickels to measure the weight, it bottomed out at 35g. This is on an old keyboard that had a Big Ass Enter. Does anyone have any info on this?

I believe all Cherry MX switches were black at one point. They didn't start color-coding them until later. Maybe this set is old enough for that?

I don't think you're right about the MX switches being black at one point. They were pigment free I believe at one point. So they looked like MX Clears.

And I wonder if it's just a really worn switch on the enter key.

[sethk_]

I have found an MX black switch, or at least a switch with a black slider w/ an extremely light bottom out force, lighter than an MX red. Using nickels to measure the weight, it bottomed out at 35g. This is on an old keyboard that had a Big Ass Enter. Does anyone have any info on this?

I believe all Cherry MX switches were black at one point. They didn't start color-coding them until later. Maybe this set is old enough for that?

I don't think you're right about the MX switches being black at one point. They were pigment free I believe at one point. So they looked like MX Clears.

And I wonder if it's just a really worn switch on the enter key.

I marked it with silver sharpie so when I desolder it I can open it up and compare the spring to another spring

[CPTBadAss]

I marked it with silver sharpie so when I desolder it I can open it up and compare the spring to another spring

Please take careful pictures of the slider and housing too! Oh and report back. You have a job to do now. Two even! Don't let me down mang

[sethk_]

I marked it with silver sharpie so when I desolder it I can open it up and compare the spring to another spring

Please take careful pictures of the slider and housing too! Oh and report back. You have a job to do now. Two even! Don't let me down mang

Yep! I need to wait for my solder sucker to get here as the board it is on does not want to transfer to the solder braid

[user 18]

Concerning this GB
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71212.0

1) Resistors are for leds right?  so if Im not going to use leds i don't need resistors? 
2) would this pcb fit in a kul case?  or in a tex aluminum case?
2) where would i find a wkeyless plate for this if it wouldn't be included?

1) No you need them for the keyboard to work. I think the matrix needs resistors and I believe they're needed for KRO. You can read this wonderful blog from Komar to understand how resistors work within the keyboard matrix. Also look at Step 8 in this build log. You can see how the KMAC PCB has a silkscreen instructing the builder to add resistors for every switch.

I think you've got diodes and resistors mixed up there. That blog post mentions pullup resistors, but I'm almost certain that those would be included in the controller anyway.

The linked KMAC PCB has pads for diodes (not resistors) as well. The silkscreen there is for in-switch diodes (as mentioned in step 2 of the same build log), and there's an additional silkscreen below some of the switches for LEDs it looks like. You can tell they're diodes because the screen has a band indicating direction. Diodes have a direction, resistors do not. I don't actually see any resistors on that PCB, which surprises me. Usually LEDs want resistors with them. Maybe they're wired in series? Maybe SMT resistors are presoldered on the back?


That said, I don't know necessarily how it applies to that GB. Maybe there is a resistor or two that's necessary on that particular board for some reason (although I doubt it).

[CPTBadAss]

Concerning this GB
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71212.0

1) Resistors are for leds right?  so if Im not going to use leds i don't need resistors? 
2) would this pcb fit in a kul case?  or in a tex aluminum case?
2) where would i find a wkeyless plate for this if it wouldn't be included?

1) No you need them for the keyboard to work. I think the matrix needs resistors and I believe they're needed for KRO. You can read this wonderful blog from Komar to understand how resistors work within the keyboard matrix. Also look at Step 8 in this build log. You can see how the KMAC PCB has a silkscreen instructing the builder to add resistors for every switch.

I think you've got diodes and resistors mixed up there. That blog post mentions pullup resistors, but I'm almost certain that those would be included in the controller anyway.

The linked KMAC PCB has pads for diodes (not resistors) as well. The silkscreen there is for in-switch diodes (as mentioned in step 2 of the same build log), and there's an additional silkscreen below some of the switches for LEDs it looks like. You can tell they're diodes because the screen has a band indicating direction. Diodes have a direction, resistors do not. I don't actually see any resistors on that PCB, which surprises me. Usually LEDs want resistors with them. Maybe they're wired in series? Maybe SMT resistors are presoldered on the back?


That said, I don't know necessarily how it applies to that GB. Maybe there is a resistor or two that's necessary on that particular board for some reason (although I doubt it).

Yup, I'm an idiot and confused resistors and diodes . The KMAC PCB does need resistors because the Function row, WASD cluster, locks, and Left control can have LEDs in them. There are places for them on the PCB. Look carefully beneath the function row.

Could the board work without resistors?

[user 18]

Concerning this GB
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71212.0

1) Resistors are for leds right?  so if Im not going to use leds i don't need resistors? 
2) would this pcb fit in a kul case?  or in a tex aluminum case?
2) where would i find a wkeyless plate for this if it wouldn't be included?

1) No you need them for the keyboard to work. I think the matrix needs resistors and I believe they're needed for KRO. You can read this wonderful blog from Komar to understand how resistors work within the keyboard matrix. Also look at Step 8 in this build log. You can see how the KMAC PCB has a silkscreen instructing the builder to add resistors for every switch.

I think you've got diodes and resistors mixed up there. That blog post mentions pullup resistors, but I'm almost certain that those would be included in the controller anyway.

The linked KMAC PCB has pads for diodes (not resistors) as well. The silkscreen there is for in-switch diodes (as mentioned in step 2 of the same build log), and there's an additional silkscreen below some of the switches for LEDs it looks like. You can tell they're diodes because the screen has a band indicating direction. Diodes have a direction, resistors do not. I don't actually see any resistors on that PCB, which surprises me. Usually LEDs want resistors with them. Maybe they're wired in series? Maybe SMT resistors are presoldered on the back?


That said, I don't know necessarily how it applies to that GB. Maybe there is a resistor or two that's necessary on that particular board for some reason (although I doubt it).

Yup, I'm an idiot and confused resistors and diodes . The KMAC PCB does need resistors because the Function row, WASD cluster, locks, and Left control can have LEDs in them. There are places for them on the PCB. Look carefully beneath the function row.

Could the board work without resistors?

I would think so, you just probably wouldn't be able to run the LEDs. I don't know of any other reason a simple keyboard PCB needs resistors other than for LEDs and the pull-ups, and to the best of my knowledge, I've never come across one.

[azhdar]

Is there an active PS2 to usb convertor that would also allow to remap keys add layers and other things you can do on a pcb or teensy?

[user 18]

Is there an active PS2 to usb convertor that would also allow to remap keys add layers and other things you can do on a pcb or teensy?

I think Soarer's converter can be used inline like that with PS/2 inputs. Not sure exactly what the software features are though.

[azhdar]

Is there an active PS2 to usb convertor that would also allow to remap keys add layers and other things you can do on a pcb or teensy?

I think Soarer's converter can be used inline like that with PS/2 inputs. Not sure exactly what the software features are though.

Very interesting I'll look into it.

[asgeirtj]

Thx for answers, always nice to see how helpful this community is.   

So it looks like that getting a TKL alu is really hard.  I should have gotten an orion v2 (I'd built it ledless though, maybe not the best board to buy for a ledless build since it's so centered on leds).

[njbair]

Concerning this GB
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71212.0

1) Resistors are for leds right?  so if Im not going to use leds i don't need resistors? 
2) would this pcb fit in a kul case?  or in a tex aluminum case?
2) where would i find a wkeyless plate for this if it wouldn't be included?

1) No you need them for the keyboard to work. I think the matrix needs resistors and I believe they're needed for KRO. You can read this wonderful blog from Komar to understand how resistors work within the keyboard matrix. Also look at Step 8 in this build log. You can see how the KMAC PCB has a silkscreen instructing the builder to add resistors for every switch.

I think you've got diodes and resistors mixed up there. That blog post mentions pullup resistors, but I'm almost certain that those would be included in the controller anyway.

The linked KMAC PCB has pads for diodes (not resistors) as well. The silkscreen there is for in-switch diodes (as mentioned in step 2 of the same build log), and there's an additional silkscreen below some of the switches for LEDs it looks like. You can tell they're diodes because the screen has a band indicating direction. Diodes have a direction, resistors do not. I don't actually see any resistors on that PCB, which surprises me. Usually LEDs want resistors with them. Maybe they're wired in series? Maybe SMT resistors are presoldered on the back?


That said, I don't know necessarily how it applies to that GB. Maybe there is a resistor or two that's necessary on that particular board for some reason (although I doubt it).

Yup, I'm an idiot and confused resistors and diodes . The KMAC PCB does need resistors because the Function row, WASD cluster, locks, and Left control can have LEDs in them. There are places for them on the PCB. Look carefully beneath the function row.

Could the board work without resistors?

Eh, diodes are pretty much just one-way, infinity-ohm resistors.

[madhias]

I am searching for a 60% aluminum plate (colored option would be nice) and a 60% PCB.

For the PCB I found sprit's 60%, but for the plate he has only acrylic and polycarbonat plates. Nice acrylic plates I found at GONs shop, but I am not sure if I will get the plate then in about 1-2 months. Is there anywhere else a place to buy 60% aluminum plates?

[SpAmRaY]

I am searching for a 60% aluminum plate (colored option would be nice) and a 60% PCB.

For the PCB I found sprit's 60%, but for the plate he has only acrylic and polycarbonat plates. Nice acrylic plates I found at GONs shop, but I am not sure if I will get the plate then in about 1-2 months. Is there anywhere else a place to buy 60% aluminum plates?

Imsto has some occasionally.

[azhdar]

I am searching for a 60% aluminum plate (colored option would be nice) and a 60% PCB.

For the PCB I found sprit's 60%, but for the plate he has only acrylic and polycarbonat plates. Nice acrylic plates I found at GONs shop, but I am not sure if I will get the plate then in about 1-2 months. Is there anywhere else a place to buy 60% aluminum plates?

For plate there's a GB : https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=71034.0
Maybe closed, not sure.

[madhias]

I am searching for a 60% aluminum plate (colored option would be nice) and a 60% PCB.

For the PCB I found sprit's 60%, but for the plate he has only acrylic and polycarbonat plates. Nice acrylic plates I found at GONs shop, but I am not sure if I will get the plate then in about 1-2 months. Is there anywhere else a place to buy 60% aluminum plates?

Imsto has some occasionally.

Yep, forgot about imsto, seem to be in stock there. Thanks!

[digi]

I'm desoldering some vintage cherry mx blues and noticed this bridge wire going through the switch. The switch has a diode marking but no diode in the switch, just curious but what was this wire bridge used for?

[hwood34]

what size of torx screwdriver do I need to open this stupid WEY

or can I just drill it out?

[jdcarpe]

I'm desoldering some vintage cherry mx blues and noticed this bridge wire going through the switch. The switch has a diode marking but no diode in the switch, just curious but what was this wire bridge used for?

Show Image

As you can see on the PCB, the in-switch jumper wires connected the traces on the board! Cherry loved to use these for some reason. If the controller supported it, you could have NKRO if those were diodes instead of jumpers, but the controller won't support NKRO, AFAIK.

[digi]

I'm desoldering some vintage cherry mx blues and noticed this bridge wire going through the switch. The switch has a diode marking but no diode in the switch, just curious but what was this wire bridge used for?

Show Image

As you can see on the PCB, the in-switch jumper wires connected the traces on the board! Cherry loved to use these for some reason. If the controller supported it, you could have NKRO if those were diodes instead of jumpers, but the controller won't support NKRO, AFAIK.

Gotcha! Thanks mang =)

[Hzza]

what size of torx screwdriver do I need to open this stupid WEY

or can I just drill it out?

I'll check a bit later on, I put mine back together yesterday and I'm pretty sure I still have the bit out.

edit - T5

[digi]

Getting ready to do a Red-Line Leeku 1800 PCB build and I'm curious if I'll need to flash the firmware to get the board working? The only URL I could find on here is an invalid link. Thanks

[CPTBadAss]

Getting ready to do a Red-Line Leeku 1800 PCB build and I'm curious if I'll need to flash the firmware to get the board working? The only URL I could find on here is an invalid link. Thanks

Mine worked just as is. Didn't flash firmware.

[digi]

Getting ready to do a Red-Line Leeku 1800 PCB build and I'm curious if I'll need to flash the firmware to get the board working? The only URL I could find on here is an invalid link. Thanks

Mine worked just as is. Didn't flash firmware.

Thanks CPT, did you do LED's/Resistors too or just switches & diodes?

[CPTBadAss]

Getting ready to do a Red-Line Leeku 1800 PCB build and I'm curious if I'll need to flash the firmware to get the board working? The only URL I could find on here is an invalid link. Thanks

Mine worked just as is. Didn't flash firmware.

Thanks CPT, did you do LED's/Resistors too or just switches & diodes?

Yup, did full resistors and LEDs.

[digi]

Getting ready to do a Red-Line Leeku 1800 PCB build and I'm curious if I'll need to flash the firmware to get the board working? The only URL I could find on here is an invalid link. Thanks

Mine worked just as is. Didn't flash firmware.

Thanks CPT, did you do LED's/Resistors too or just switches & diodes?

Yup, did full resistors and LEDs.

Nice, which resistors did you use if you don't mind me asking? Do you know the shortcut commands to control the led's? thanks again

[CPTBadAss]

More

Getting ready to do a Red-Line Leeku 1800 PCB build and I'm curious if I'll need to flash the firmware to get the board working? The only URL I could find on here is an invalid link. Thanks

Mine worked just as is. Didn't flash firmware.

Thanks CPT, did you do LED's/Resistors too or just switches & diodes?

Yup, did full resistors and LEDs.

1) Nice, which resistors did you use if you don't mind me asking?
2) Do you know the shortcut commands to control the led's? thanks again

1) I used these resistors as recommended by Photoelectric.

2) These are the Function and LED controls that infiniti helped me with.

[digi]

More

Getting ready to do a Red-Line Leeku 1800 PCB build and I'm curious if I'll need to flash the firmware to get the board working? The only URL I could find on here is an invalid link. Thanks

Mine worked just as is. Didn't flash firmware.

Thanks CPT, did you do LED's/Resistors too or just switches & diodes?

Yup, did full resistors and LEDs.

1) Nice, which resistors did you use if you don't mind me asking?
2) Do you know the shortcut commands to control the led's? thanks again

1) I used these resistors as recommended by Photoelectric.

2) These are the Function and LED controls that infiniti helped me with.

thanks again bud!

[sethk_]

More

Getting ready to do a Red-Line Leeku 1800 PCB build and I'm curious if I'll need to flash the firmware to get the board working? The only URL I could find on here is an invalid link. Thanks

Mine worked just as is. Didn't flash firmware.

Thanks CPT, did you do LED's/Resistors too or just switches & diodes?

Yup, did full resistors and LEDs.

1) Nice, which resistors did you use if you don't mind me asking?
2) Do you know the shortcut commands to control the led's? thanks again

1) I used these resistors as recommended by Photoelectric.

2) These are the Function and LED controls that infiniti helped me with.

what about diodes?

[jdcarpe]

More

Getting ready to do a Red-Line Leeku 1800 PCB build and I'm curious if I'll need to flash the firmware to get the board working? The only URL I could find on here is an invalid link. Thanks

Mine worked just as is. Didn't flash firmware.

Thanks CPT, did you do LED's/Resistors too or just switches & diodes?

Yup, did full resistors and LEDs.

1) Nice, which resistors did you use if you don't mind me asking?
2) Do you know the shortcut commands to control the led's? thanks again

1) I used these resistors as recommended by Photoelectric.

2) These are the Function and LED controls that infiniti helped me with.

what about diodes?

You need diodes? Here, buy 1000 of them for $12.30.

[CPTBadAss]

More

Getting ready to do a Red-Line Leeku 1800 PCB build and I'm curious if I'll need to flash the firmware to get the board working? The only URL I could find on here is an invalid link. Thanks

Mine worked just as is. Didn't flash firmware.

Thanks CPT, did you do LED's/Resistors too or just switches & diodes?

Yup, did full resistors and LEDs.

1) Nice, which resistors did you use if you don't mind me asking?
2) Do you know the shortcut commands to control the led's? thanks again

1) I used these resistors as recommended by Photoelectric.

2) These are the Function and LED controls that infiniti helped me with.

what about diodes?

Just the standard through hole diodes, the 1N4148 ones. From Mouser too.

[sethk_]

More

Getting ready to do a Red-Line Leeku 1800 PCB build and I'm curious if I'll need to flash the firmware to get the board working? The only URL I could find on here is an invalid link. Thanks

Mine worked just as is. Didn't flash firmware.

Thanks CPT, did you do LED's/Resistors too or just switches & diodes?

Yup, did full resistors and LEDs.

1) Nice, which resistors did you use if you don't mind me asking?
2) Do you know the shortcut commands to control the led's? thanks again

1) I used these resistors as recommended by Photoelectric.

2) These are the Function and LED controls that infiniti helped me with.

what about diodes?

Just the standard through hole diodes, the 1N4148 ones. From Mouser too.

how did you solder these on the boards? Did the through-holes go through the switches, or were they on the opposite end, and in that case did it interfere with the LEDs?

[CPTBadAss]

More

Getting ready to do a Red-Line Leeku 1800 PCB build and I'm curious if I'll need to flash the firmware to get the board working? The only URL I could find on here is an invalid link. Thanks

Mine worked just as is. Didn't flash firmware.

Thanks CPT, did you do LED's/Resistors too or just switches & diodes?

Yup, did full resistors and LEDs.

1) Nice, which resistors did you use if you don't mind me asking?
2) Do you know the shortcut commands to control the led's? thanks again

1) I used these resistors as recommended by Photoelectric.

2) These are the Function and LED controls that infiniti helped me with.

what about diodes?

Just the standard through hole diodes, the 1N4148 ones. From Mouser too.

how did you solder these on the boards? Did the through-holes go through the switches, or were they on the opposite end, and in that case did it interfere with the LEDs?

I had Drhubblephd build this so I'm trying to remember now. He may have just cut the 1N1418 diodes short and soldered them to the SMD hookups. Honestly I'm not sure. I'll ask.

Sorry for the confusion. I found the order in my email and read it too quickly. These are the diodes I bought for my Leeku.

Had SMD resistors and diodes. Here's a picture of them assembled just in case



Again, thank you drhubblephd for building it for me. Still haven't taught myself to SMD solder yet.


Also digi, I didn't flash my firmware on the PCB but in case you do need it, here's a post from danielucf where he figured it out.

[digi]

Here is video where GON shows how he solders smd components, he makes it look easy and he also has the perfect size chisel tip. Hopefully mine is close to that size. I also think he pre-soldered the pads:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-z7t9p9QbYc&t=1m12s

I'm going to solder the through-hole diodes and then use smd resistors for the led's, should be super fun. : )

[jdcarpe]

Here is video where GON shows how he solders smd components, he makes it look easy and he also has the perfect size chisel tip. Hopefully mine is close to that size. I also think he pre-soldered the pads:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-z7t9p9QbYc&t=1m12s

I'm going to solder the through-hole diodes and then use smd resistors for the led's, should be super fun. : )

If you use through hole diodes and solder them to the back of the PCB, you will cover the pads for the LEDs.

If you install the through hole diodes inside the switches, you are all good.

[CPTBadAss]

Yeah just to clarify again, I messed up reading my order form. I used smd diodes and resistors.

[digi]

Here is video where GON shows how he solders smd components, he makes it look easy and he also has the perfect size chisel tip. Hopefully mine is close to that size. I also think he pre-soldered the pads:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-z7t9p9QbYc&t=1m12s

I'm going to solder the through-hole diodes and then use smd resistors for the led's, should be super fun. : )

If you use through hole diodes and solder them to the back of the PCB, you will cover the pads for the LEDs.

If you install the through hole diodes inside the switches, you are all good.

thank you for that. darn, now I have to take all these switch covers off, lol.

Why would they design the Leeku PCB like that where it covers the pads to the led's if you use through-hole diodes? What were they thinking..

[sethk_]

More

Getting ready to do a Red-Line Leeku 1800 PCB build and I'm curious if I'll need to flash the firmware to get the board working? The only URL I could find on here is an invalid link. Thanks

Mine worked just as is. Didn't flash firmware.

Thanks CPT, did you do LED's/Resistors too or just switches & diodes?

Yup, did full resistors and LEDs.

1) Nice, which resistors did you use if you don't mind me asking?
2) Do you know the shortcut commands to control the led's? thanks again

1) I used these resistors as recommended by Photoelectric.

2) These are the Function and LED controls that infiniti helped me with.

what about diodes?

Just the standard through hole diodes, the 1N4148 ones. From Mouser too.

how did you solder these on the boards? Did the through-holes go through the switches, or were they on the opposite end, and in that case did it interfere with the LEDs?

I had Drhubblephd build this so I'm trying to remember now. He may have just cut the 1N1418 diodes short and soldered them to the SMD hookups. Honestly I'm not sure. I'll ask.

Sorry for the confusion. I found the order in my email and read it too quickly. These are the diodes I bought for my Leeku.

Had SMD resistors and diodes. Here's a picture of them assembled just in case

Show Image

Again, thank you drhubblephd for building it for me. Still haven't taught myself to SMD solder yet.


Also digi, I didn't flash my firmware on the PCB but in case you do need it, here's a post from danielucf where he figured it out.

Ah, thanks! And I am a noob when it comes to resistors, but would the 820 work for any LED, even if some are dim?