Author Topic: Post Your LZ-GH ! (Read 66227 times)

VesperSAINT · « **Reply #100 on:** Mon, 24 June 2013, 23:22:48 »

This entire thread makes my newly modded Filco look mediocre. UNNOTIFIED!... but I won't

)

THIRD PAGE!

okooko · « **Reply #101 on:** Mon, 24 June 2013, 23:36:38 »

Quote from: VesperSAINT on Mon, 24 June 2013, 23:22:48

This entire thread makes my newly modded Filco look mediocre. UNNOTIFIED!... but I won't )

THIRD PAGE!

MMMM DAT AS$

anyone got 2, so you can take a photo of a reflection of a reflection....inception...

calavera · « **Reply #102 on:** Mon, 24 June 2013, 23:37:36 »

LZception.

Where are all the other colors besides black? I only saw one or two.

okooko · « **Reply #103 on:** Mon, 24 June 2013, 23:42:21 »

Quote from: calavera on Mon, 24 June 2013, 23:37:36

LZception.

Where are all the other colors besides black? I only saw one or two.

atakp had a grey one first few posts, then the proto orange posted by DrugER and TJ red one I think...

All colors should be covered. Turkishrambos one would be identical to mine, so I can't wait...

VesperSAINT · « **Reply #104 on:** Mon, 24 June 2013, 23:51:39 »

Quote from: okooko on Mon, 24 June 2013, 23:36:38

Quote from: VesperSAINT on Mon, 24 June 2013, 23:22:48
This entire thread makes my newly modded Filco look mediocre. UNNOTIFIED!... but I won't )

THIRD PAGE!

MMMM DAT AS$

anyone got 2, so you can take a photo of a reflection of a reflection....inception...

Why you do this to me, brah... now I'm going to be checking back here more often to see these pics...

)

emptythecache · « **Reply #105 on:** Sat, 29 June 2013, 13:08:13 »

Enjoy your potato!

Rendom · « **Reply #106 on:** Sat, 29 June 2013, 13:28:11 »

Quote from: emptythecache on Sat, 29 June 2013, 13:08:13

Enjoy your potato!

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Looks great!

emptythecache · « **Reply #107 on:** Sat, 29 June 2013, 14:01:38 »

I need some 1x windows keys :/

bazemk1979 · « **Reply #108 on:** Sat, 29 June 2013, 15:20:21 »

Quote from: emptythecache on Sat, 29 June 2013, 14:01:38

I need some 1x windows keys :/

I practically love the 1.5 - 1 - 1.5 - 7 layout.... as for the x1 keys just add the x1 modifiers from the purple set dude!

emptythecache · « **Reply #109 on:** Sat, 29 June 2013, 15:26:32 »

I didn't get the mod set, only the esc and cmyk. The current cap set is temporary anyway, my GMK dolch set will be going on this board, and hopefully it will come with 1x blank keys right away.

bazemk1979 · « **Reply #110 on:** Sat, 29 June 2013, 15:35:49 »

Quote from: emptythecache on Sat, 29 June 2013, 15:26:32

I didn't get the mod set, only the esc and cmyk. The current cap set is temporary anyway, my GMK dolch set will be going on this board, and hopefully it will come with 1x blank keys right away.

it wont, there will be sidegrade keys for purchase, hopefully they come together with the dolch though, x1 keys for R1 and R4 in blanks and windowed, 1.75 shift and not sure if he has anything else in mind.

emptythecache · « **Reply #111 on:** Sat, 29 June 2013, 16:26:30 »

yeah i know, but if they have the molds and the plastic, i don't know why those supplementary sets wouldn't be available at the same time.

bazemk1979 · « **Reply #112 on:** Sat, 29 June 2013, 16:34:32 »

Quote from: emptythecache on Sat, 29 June 2013, 16:26:30

yeah i know, but if they have the molds and the plastic, i don't know why those supplementary sets wouldn't be available at the same time.

I hope they will be available at the same time, that way I can add some more to my order, already added 2 sticker sheets and 65g springs

megaxpop · « **Reply #113 on:** Sat, 06 July 2013, 06:15:37 »

Quote from: Turkishrambo on Mon, 24 June 2013, 18:09:37

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so kool! >.<

bazemk1979 · « **Reply #114 on:** Sat, 06 July 2013, 10:50:01 »

Quote from: Batmann on Mon, 24 June 2013, 04:20:36

^ thanks
is 0508 the correct reference, I can't find a place to buy some.

they are every where all over the ebay.... 0508 or 2012 marked with both. I just ordered 2 packs of 250 each for the upcoming Trixk board. What you want is 1.2K Ohm for the for the 1.8-2.4V LED's and 820 Ohm for the 3-3.4V LEds.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290940624271?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_6195wt_1161 1.2K Ohm

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300850253874?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_6195wt_1161 820 Ohm

Don't forget they are 2 stages of modding the leds though, speaking of if you get the round ones, and you just want to make them fit not interfering with keyacap bottoming out then you only need to shave off the wire sides, this mod wont give you the ability to remove the top cover of the cherry switch for later down the road stem and spring swap. Only benefit you will have is flush leds that wont came in way with bottoming out.

The full blown mod would be, shaving off the the leds all around and shaving off the top cover of the cherry housing, this will give you flush leds and removable top cover to swap springs and stems in future.

elton5354 · « **Reply #115 on:** Sat, 06 July 2013, 11:40:39 »

I think alaricls used 1.2k ohm for the red LEDs and they're REALLY dim. If you want them brighter, use a lower ohm resistor, like 1k or something.

Turkishrambo · « **Reply #116 on:** Sun, 07 July 2013, 22:05:35 »

this thread needs more pics!

alaricljs · « **Reply #117 on:** Mon, 08 July 2013, 08:16:08 »

Quote from: elton5354 on Sat, 06 July 2013, 11:40:39

I think alaricls used 1.2k ohm for the red LEDs and they're REALLY dim. If you want them brighter, use a lower ohm resistor, like 1k or something.

How dim is really dim? I used the values that Redline specified after double checking them with some math. If the LED light is just a spec of color in the LED with no real luminescence then you need to reset the KB firmware and you'll get full brightness. Aside from the resistor values there is whatever Redline did to control brightness since they have a 50%/100% brightness toggle in their control program. There were a couple PCBs I tested that came up with nearly pointless brightness levels and a reset always fixed it.

YoungMichael88 · « **Reply #118 on:** Thu, 11 July 2013, 13:55:27 »

The rest of my resistors came in today. But one spool in unlabeled. They each have "122" on them. Can anyone confirm these are 1.2k? How can I know for sure? The time has come to get started on this beast.

alaricljs · « **Reply #119 on:** Thu, 11 July 2013, 13:58:27 »

typically 1201 would be 1.2k, 7320 would be 732 Ohms

First 3 digits are the first 3 digits of the resistance, 4th digit is the # of zeros after... 1203==120,000

In your case I'd expect they decided to use less ink and do 2 digits plus # of zeros: 122==1200 Which is 1.2k

Of course to know for certain, you measure.

YoungMichael88 · « **Reply #120 on:** Thu, 11 July 2013, 14:07:24 »

Quote from: alaricljs on Thu, 11 July 2013, 13:58:27

typically 1201 would be 1.2k, 7320 would be 732 Ohms

First 3 digits are the first 3 digits of the resistance, 4th digit is the # of zeros after... 1203==120,000

In your case I'd expect they decided to use less ink and do 2 digits plus # of zeros: 122==1200 Which is 1.2k Of course to know for certain, you measure.

As usual, he has all the answers! Thank you sir.

Turkishrambo · « **Reply #121 on:** Fri, 12 July 2013, 20:23:36 »

FINALLY COMPLETE!!!!

A vision has finally become reality.

Sorry for potato pics

Sifo · « **Reply #122 on:** Fri, 12 July 2013, 20:24:07 »

Quote from: Turkishrambo on Fri, 12 July 2013, 20:23:36

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FINALLY COMPLETE!!!!

A vision has finally become reality.

Sorry for potato pics

Oh man I remember you talking about this. Looks really good dude

Turkishrambo · « **Reply #123 on:** Fri, 12 July 2013, 20:27:42 »

Quote from: Sifo on Fri, 12 July 2013, 20:24:07

Quote from: Turkishrambo on Fri, 12 July 2013, 20:23:36
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FINALLY COMPLETE!!!!

A vision has finally become reality.

Sorry for potato pics
Oh man I remember you talking about this. Looks really good dude

sup son?

Yeah, i originally got green LEDs with my order because i thought the toxic set wouldnt take this long. Finally the orange LEDs came and i got down to business. Could not be happier!

Also for people who ordered WKL, make sure you solder on the leds the correct way for the ctrl/alt keys. Had to resolder mine thinking they all went the same way ~_~

jil_jil32 · « **Reply #124 on:** Fri, 12 July 2013, 21:04:10 »

Quote from: Turkishrambo on Fri, 12 July 2013, 20:23:36

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FINALLY COMPLETE!!!!

A vision has finally become reality.

Sorry for potato pics

Full ORANGE LEDs is the way to go! It's coool bro!

rowdy · « **Reply #125 on:** Sat, 13 July 2013, 01:32:17 »

That nighttime orange glow is awesome!

pmh1410 · « **Reply #126 on:** Sat, 13 July 2013, 05:04:01 »

Quote from: Sifo on Fri, 12 July 2013, 20:24:07

Quote from: Turkishrambo on Fri, 12 July 2013, 20:23:36
Show Image

Show Image

FINALLY COMPLETE!!!!

A vision has finally become reality.

Sorry for potato pics

Oh man I remember you talking about this. Looks really good dude

Very nice your LZ-GH

tom88jerry · « **Reply #127 on:** Sat, 13 July 2013, 06:51:18 »

Very nice LZ-GH!

The led color looks like lava......

Quote from: Turkishrambo on Fri, 12 July 2013, 20:23:36

Show Image

Show Image

FINALLY COMPLETE!!!!

A vision has finally become reality.

Sorry for potato pics

AKIMbO · « **Reply #128 on:** Sat, 13 July 2013, 07:22:47 »

Quote from: Turkishrambo on Fri, 12 July 2013, 20:23:36

Show Image

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FINALLY COMPLETE!!!!

A vision has finally become reality.

Sorry for potato pics

Looking good. A true Geekhack themed LZ-GH.

jil_jil32 · « **Reply #129 on:** Sat, 13 July 2013, 12:35:39 »

He might want a Hack Orange Skull to complete the theme ^______^

Photoelectric · « **Reply #130 on:** Sat, 13 July 2013, 13:10:53 »

HO would be too red for that in my opinion! I think it's great with all black/orange caps--very symmetrical clean look!

Turkishrambo · « **Reply #131 on:** Sat, 13 July 2013, 13:21:41 »

Quote from: jil_jil32 on Sat, 13 July 2013, 12:35:39

He might want a Hack Orange Skull to complete the theme ^______^

Haha id buy one but i wouldnt spend too much on it

Turkishrambo · « **Reply #132 on:** Sun, 14 July 2013, 22:53:03 »

Just got a new camera, trying to take some decent pictures in the worst lighting conditions evar.

still learning all the terms and what everything does, dont grill me too hard xD Not even focused right X.x

SpAmRaY · « **Reply #133 on:** Sun, 14 July 2013, 22:59:16 »

Quote from: Turkishrambo on Sun, 14 July 2013, 22:53:03

Just got a new camera, trying to take some decent pictures in the worst lighting conditions evar.

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still learning all the terms and what everything does, dont grill me too hard xD Not even focused right X.x

I know it's been said by others but that Orange and Black is very nice!

Turkishrambo · « **Reply #134 on:** Sun, 14 July 2013, 23:05:16 »

Quote from: SpAmRaY on Sun, 14 July 2013, 22:59:16

Quote from: Turkishrambo on Sun, 14 July 2013, 22:53:03
Just got a new camera, trying to take some decent pictures in the worst lighting conditions evar.

Show Image

still learning all the terms and what everything does, dont grill me too hard xD Not even focused right X.x

I know it's been said by others but that Orange and Black is very nice!

Thanks bro! Just trying to keep the thread alive... i want more people to be posting. Especially some metal grey and red boards

Glissant · « **Reply #135 on:** Wed, 17 July 2013, 15:43:40 »

I wasn't sure if I should post this here, in the group buy thread or in both, but I decided to post it just here.

My LZ-GH is an 86 in a black aluminum case with stock clear switches and full RED LEDs. Currently wearing full Red on Gray Klaxon.

Here is the beginning of my LZ-GH adventure. It took a little time because I made a mistake when I first wanted to put it together. I soldered my corner switches before putting in stabs *facepalm.
Here I have desoldered the corner switches, and I am ready to go.

Soldering switches

Not all switches are soldered on the bottom of the board.

Soldering the LEDS

SMD soldering with solder iron isn't hard

Does everything work?

YES! Everything works

) .

Very happy with the board. Now I just need to figure out if I can toggle the LEDs without the TrIK program xD.

tom88jerry · « **Reply #136 on:** Wed, 17 July 2013, 15:50:55 »

Very nice job

Quote from: Glissant on Wed, 17 July 2013, 15:43:40

I wasn't sure if I should post this here, in the group buy thread or in both, but I decided to post it just here.

Here is the beginning of my LZ-GH adventure. It took a little time because I made a mistake when I first wanted to put it together. I soldered my corner switches before putting in stabs *facepalm.
Here I have desoldered the corner switches, and I am ready to go.
(Attachment Link)

Soldering switches
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
Not all switches are soldered on the bottom of the board.
(Attachment Link)

Soldering the LEDS
(Attachment Link)

SMD soldering with solder iron isn't hard
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

Does everything work?
(Attachment Link)
YES! Everything works ).

(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

Very happy with the board. Now I just need to figure out if I can toggle the LEDs without the TrIK program xD.

emptythecache · « **Reply #137 on:** Wed, 17 July 2013, 16:02:23 »

Glissbro, I think the different LED modes are set to `+ (1-4). I downloaded the TRiK program to figure that out, but once I was in there, I didn't have to change anything to get that functionality on my board.

Dianoda · « **Reply #138 on:** Wed, 17 July 2013, 16:26:48 »

Quote from: emptythecache on Wed, 17 July 2013, 16:02:23

Glissbro, I think the different LED modes are set to `+ (1-4). I downloaded the TRiK program to figure that out, but once I was in there, I didn't have to change anything to get that functionality on my board.

LED control should be whatever key the macro ("M" in TRiKer) is set to + 1/2/3/4 to cycle through the various LED modes - when my board arrived the "M" macro key was set to the "pause/break" key, so maybe try that (I was under the impression "pause/break" was the default key assigned to macro duty).

Glissant · « **Reply #139 on:** Wed, 17 July 2013, 16:32:51 »

ECbro, thanks for the suggestion

I found out that Pause + 1234(5) set the LED modes for me. No idea how to even change that or anything else like an FN layer on this beast, but I'm fine for now.

Dianoda, thank you. I just found that myself, so now I can control the LEDs at least ^^.

Turkishrambo · « **Reply #140 on:** Wed, 17 July 2013, 16:41:52 »

Quote from: Glissant on Wed, 17 July 2013, 16:32:51

ECbro, thanks for the suggestion I found out that Pause + 1234(5) set the LED modes for me. No idea how to even change that or anything else like an FN layer on this beast, but I'm fine for now.

Dianoda, thank you. I just found that myself, so now I can control the LEDs at least ^^.

Thanks! i didnt know this because the guide is in korean. I was opening the program to turn on LED's each time.

If anyone can translate how everything works that would be awesome.

YoungMichael88 · « **Reply #141 on:** Wed, 17 July 2013, 17:42:36 »

Quote from: Turkishrambo on Wed, 17 July 2013, 16:41:52

Quote from: Glissant on Wed, 17 July 2013, 16:32:51
ECbro, thanks for the suggestion I found out that Pause + 1234(5) set the LED modes for me. No idea how to even change that or anything else like an FN layer on this beast, but I'm fine for now.

Dianoda, thank you. I just found that myself, so now I can control the LEDs at least ^^.

Thanks! i didnt know this because the guide is in korean. I was opening the program to turn on LED's each time.

If anyone can translate how everything works that would be awesome.

WE DEMAND ENGLISH!! Hehe but seriously..... Please......

Glissant · « **Reply #142 on:** Thu, 18 July 2013, 02:44:10 »

English would be extremely helpful, so I hope someone can do that for us

WhiteFireDragon · « **Reply #143 on:** Thu, 18 July 2013, 03:07:45 »

Glissant, those red LEDs on a silver plate, as well as red hue in the dark look uber nice!

Btw, that weller iron is too hot. The dial should be on setting 3 max for just switches and the stock tip. Less risk of frying/lifting pads. Trik PCBs are good quality though so not much of a risk as cheaper ones.

Kabuks · « **Reply #144 on:** Fri, 19 July 2013, 12:16:57 »

Does anyone know what the default keymapping is to swap LED modes?

alaricljs · « **Reply #145 on:** Fri, 19 July 2013, 12:18:08 »

either tilde + 1-4 or Pause + 1-4 I've had both. Resetting the firmware (Esc while plugging it in) should make it Pause but will also break your keymap a little (modifiers will be wrong)

Kabuks · « **Reply #146 on:** Fri, 19 July 2013, 12:20:09 »

Quote from: alaricljs on Fri, 19 July 2013, 12:18:08

either tilde + 1-4 or Pause + 1-4 I've had both. Resetting the firmware (Esc while plugging it in) should make it Pause but will also break your keymap a little (modifiers will be wrong)

Thanks Sir.

eth0s · « **Reply #147 on:** Fri, 19 July 2013, 12:55:44 »

Quote from: Turkishrambo on Fri, 12 July 2013, 20:23:36

Show Image

Show Image

FINALLY COMPLETE!!!!

A vision has finally become reality.

Sorry for potato pics

Holy crap that looks awesome!

tadbitnerdy · « **Reply #148 on:** Fri, 19 July 2013, 13:33:34 »

Mine is in the mail!

bazemk1979 · « **Reply #149 on:** Fri, 19 July 2013, 17:19:40 »

Quote from: WhiteFireDragon on Thu, 18 July 2013, 03:07:45

Glissant, those red LEDs on a silver plate, as well as red hue in the dark look uber nice!

Btw, that weller iron is too hot. The dial should be on setting 3 max for just switches and the stock tip. Less risk of frying/lifting pads. Trik PCBs are good quality though so not much of a risk as cheaper ones.

It looks like the temp is set around 5 ish? ugh that's around 500C ? NO! bad boy!

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Author Topic: Post Your LZ-GH ! (Read 66227 times)