60% for 60% of the price

[funkystuhero]

Hey guys, new guy here. I am new to this whole mech stuff, but I'm deep into it. I'm expecting a qucikfire in the mail, but I'm a DIY kinda guy, so eventually I know I'll end up making my own keyboard. I really like how simple and compact 60% keyboards are, but I feel like you're buying less for more money. I'll attempt to make a cheap little keyboard, and my ultimate goal will be to keep the cost at roughly 60% of what a retail keyboard will cost. I'll be using the Poker 2 as a reference, and I'll take its rough mean value (because of the varying switch types) is $105+~10 for shipping = 115. This limits my budget to $69.

Alright, so the first thing on my list is the plate/case. I know that an aluminum or steel plate is pretty much out of the equation, so I'll have to settle with an acrylic one. To make it more stable, I think I'll be using something along the lines of these standoffs to prevent the plate from flexing too much when used. I'll be able to get my hands on 8ft² of 1/16" acrylic from this local shop for $24. As far as cutting it goes, as some of you may or may not know, Chicago's Harold Washington recently opened a so-called Maker-lab, which gives anyone with a library card free access to three 3d printers, a laser cutter, and a milling machine. For my project, I will be mainly interested in the laser cutter. From the articles I was able to find, this is the cutter they got, which appears to be a Full Spectrum Laser CO2 40W laser cutter. It will handle  cutting 1/16" acrylic just fine and best of all, it's free!

Now, I don't have the software, nor the skills to design my own plate or case, so this is where I'll be asking you guys for help. I like the layout of the Poker 2, but I'll be going for something even more simplistic- I don't want to have a bezel at all. Just the keys will be visible from the top, kind of like the 2TU is. I am planning on having the acrylic cut into 1' by 1' pieces, and fitting 2 layers of the case on each square foot. So all in all, I will be able to make 16 layers, and the maximum thickness will be 1". There will be only 3 .dwg? files needed to be made, and all 3 of them share a common part- the middle layer. What I'm thinking is that the first of the three contains the plate and a middle layer, the second contains 2 identical middle layers, and the third will have a middle layer and the bottom cover. I'll sketch this out if it doesn't make sense.

 Anyhow, if one of you is kind enough and has the time to do it, would you be willing to design these three things? It will be greatly appreciated  ).

For the controller, I think my best bet will be a teensy, but it will suck up around half of my budget. Do you know some place where I can get free shipping for it, or an effective substitute for it?
Can this replace the teensy? They both use Atmega32u4.

Switches will be either vintage or old blacks, from this thread. Vintages will be $18.50 shipped, while olds will be $15.50 shipped. If I have the money to spare, I'll invest in the vintages, as I've heard they feel better. Stabilizers will be an extra ~$5.

Keycaps will be kind of tough, but since I'm going for the low price, I'll have to compromise and get some cheapo set from a quickfire for $10 shipped. Nevermind, they've been sold. Oh well, I'll be on the lookout for some low cost, unless someone wants to donate/sell a set of caps they despise. Once again, any help is appreciated.

So far this is what I have:

• Acrylic for plate and case, free cutting - $24
• Switches+stabilizers, we'll call that $20
• Controller- hoping to get one for $20 Pure pcb from tinlong - @25 shipped
• Keycaps- donated

Total as of now: $74  $69, it looks like this might go down as expected.

It is very likely that I will go out of the budget by a couple of dollars, but I think it is a rather challenging project to undertake, and I will keep you posted with my progress. 

First edit: Well, Mashby talked me into getting a pcb instead of a teensy. It will run me $25 from qtan. I also got someone willing to give me some keycaps at the cost of shipping. You know who you are, so thank you. This will bring my total to exactly $69, so this might be possible after all.

[BunnyLake]

looking forward to seeing where this goes

[SpAmRaY]

Switches will be either vintage or old blacks, from this thread. Vintages will be $18.50 shipped, while olds will be $15.50 shipped. If I have the money to spare, I'll invest in the vintages, as I've heard they feel better. Stabilizers will be an extra ~$5.

He is pretty sure he is out of 'vintage switches' so you might just have to go with the 'old' ones which he still has. Unless you already bought them then nevermind.

And do you already have soldering gear etc?

[gnubag]

i don't think that there is a (significantly) cheaper alternative to a teensy but you could try to look for controllers on ebay since there are lots of chinese atmega 32u4 based controllers.

also you will need diodes for your build (which are dirt cheap)

[Photekq]

I've already designed an open-source acrylic 60% case. I just need to do some work on it before I release the files. Hopefully will be done by the end of next week.

[funkystuhero]

also you will need diodes for your build (which are dirt cheap)

I knew I was forgetting something, thanks for pointing it out 

Switches will be either vintage or old blacks, from this thread. Vintages will be $18.50 shipped, while olds will be $15.50 shipped. If I have the money to spare, I'll invest in the vintages, as I've heard they feel better. Stabilizers will be an extra ~$5.

He is pretty sure he is out of 'vintage switches' so you might just have to go with the 'old' ones which he still has. Unless you already bought them then nevermind.

And do you already have soldering gear etc?

That's fine by me, and yeah I do have a soldering iron, but I think I'll invest into a better one. Won't count that as an expenditure for this project haha

I've already designed an open-source acrylic 60% case. I just need to do some work on it before I release the files. Hopefully will be done by the end of next week.

Looking forward to that.

[MOZ]

I actually took the same project on hand for the ErgoDox. Not trying to hijack the thread but, here are my costs so far (Maybe you'll be interested):

- PCB: $48
- Case: $20
- Cover: $16
- Teensy: $20
- Switches: $14
- Nuts/Washers/Bolts: $2
- Cables/Sleeving/Connectors: $8
- Feet: $4
- Electrical components: $8

=================
Total: $140
=================

With a cover, sleeved and metallic connectors, feet and some more.

[WhiteFireDragon]

Wow a chicago library has 3d printers, laser cutter, and a milling machine? Free access is great. Wish I had these resources available.

If you're using the 1/16" acrylic plate as the main thing to hold up the switches, you might as well not use one at all. Acrylic in that thickness is extremely flimsy and hardly provides any support. I know you mentioned standoffs, but local regions without standoffs will flex, especially when the switches won't even have a PCB.

I would go back to the drawing board before continuing with the production. Maybe make the acrylic 3/16" instead. Without a PCB, you can make the plate as thick as you want within reason.

[esoomenona]

There is this company that has many types of equipment, and all you have to pay is a certain fee to use it all. I know they have locations across the country.

[jalaj]

Wow a chicago library has 3d printers, laser cutter, and a milling machine? Free access is great. Wish I had these resources available.

If you're using the 1/16" acrylic plate as the main thing to hold up the switches, you might as well not use one at all. Acrylic in that thickness is extremely flimsy and hardly provides any support. I know you mentioned standoffs, but local regions without standoffs will flex, especially when the switches won't even have a PCB.

I would go back to the drawing board before continuing with the production. Maybe make the acrylic 3/16" instead. Without a PCB, you can make the plate as thick as you want within reason.

Illinois is broke as all hell, or rather saddled heavily in debt. So if IL can do it, why not CA? Better call your local state/county/district reps.
http://chicagotonight.wttw.com/2013/07/15/harold-washington-library-enters-3-d-printing-game

[jalaj]

double post, delete!

[Charger]

if you look around on ebay you can get a keyboard with cherry switches keycaps and stabilizers for less then $30 but would need to desolder the switches

i just made my keyboard for $50 that I'm typing on no but I didn't have anything laser cut I just used the metal plate from the keyboard I bough its basically a deck82 as I started with a m2c-tg3-tp keyboard

[Thimplum]

I actually took the same project on hand for the ErgoDox. Not trying to hijack the thread but, here are my costs so far (Maybe you'll be interested):

- PCB: $48
- Case: $20
- Cover: $16
- Teensy: $20
- Switches: $14
- Nuts/Washers/Bolts: $2
- Cables/Sleeving/Connectors: $8
- Feet: $4
- Electrical components: $8

=================
Total: $140
=================

With a cover, sleeved and metallic connectors, feet and some more.

Where the heck did you get 76 Cherry MX switches for $14?!?!

[MOZ]

Barely used TVS-e GOLD Sold in India only)

[Thimplum]

Barely used TVS-e GOLD Sold in India only)

*&^%$#@! It's supposed to be CONUS only!

[MOZ]

CONUS gets all the love. The TVS-e GOLD and raw hardware/machining is all that is cheap here.

[mashby]

You could also just get a Poker or a Pure PCB. Tinlong has Pure PCBs for $25.

Just a thought.

[domoaligato]

I bought one of these recently and farmed all the switched from it.....


http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.XData911+Data+911+MDS2000+keyboard+touchpad+ps%2F2+M2C-TG3-TP.TRS0&_nkw=Data911+Data+911+MDS2000+keyboard+touchpad+ps%2F2+M2C-TG3-TP&_sacat=0&_from=R40

[funkystuhero]

Wow a chicago library has 3d printers, laser cutter, and a milling machine? Free access is great. Wish I had these resources available.

If you're using the 1/16" acrylic plate as the main thing to hold up the switches, you might as well not use one at all. Acrylic in that thickness is extremely flimsy and hardly provides any support. I know you mentioned standoffs, but local regions without standoffs will flex, especially when the switches won't even have a PCB.

I would go back to the drawing board before continuing with the production. Maybe make the acrylic 3/16" instead. Without a PCB, you can make the plate as thick as you want within reason.

Funny thing is, 3/16" is actually cheaper, so I will more likely go with that.
EDIT: 1/8" is also $24, so that's what my choice will be.

You could also just get a Poker or a Pure PCB. Tinlong has Pure PCBs for $25.

Just a thought.

You have a point, but then I would need to make the case, which I will already be paying for. Why not go with plate mounted switches and no pcb, and save those $25 for better switches or something like that. I know this isn't the most perfect solution, but I am cutting a lot of corners I can live without.

[mashby]

You could also just get a Poker or a Pure PCB. Tinlong has Pure PCBs for $25.

Just a thought.

You have a point, but then I would need to make the case, which I will already be paying for. Why not go with plate mounted switches and no pcb, and save those $25 for better switches or something like that. I know this isn't the most perfect solution, but I am cutting a lot of corners I can live without.

Well, $25 for a Teensy, or $25 for a PCB, so it's a bit of a wash either way price wise. One just takes more work than the other.

[funkystuhero]

Well, $25 for a Teensy, or $25 for a PCB, so it's a bit of a wash either way price wise. One just takes more work than the other.

Dang it you proved your point

[gnubag]

you will also need stabilizers.

4 sets for a pure pcb (left shift, backspace, enter, and a 6.25 spacebar)

[Photekq]

Stabs cost about $10 + shipping for a full set :/

[funkystuhero]

The guy I'm buying the switches from is selling stabs for 50 cents each, I'll just figure something out about the spacebar.

By the way, does anyone have the file needed to laser cut a pure plate? I'm not familiar with the extensions and compatibility of different cutters. Another thing that will be appreciated would be the layers for the sides and bottom of the case. Thanks!

[Photekq]

The guy I'm buying the switches from is selling stabs for 50 cents each, I'll just figure something out about the spacebar.

By the way, does anyone have the file needed to laser cut a pure plate? I'm not familiar with the extensions and compatibility of different cutters. Another thing that will be appreciated would be the layers for the sides and bottom of the case. Thanks!

He is selling 2x stabilisers + 8x/10x spacebar stabilisers.

You will need a 6.25x spacebar stabiliser.

[funkystuhero]

He is selling 2x stabilisers + 8x/10x spacebar stabilisers.

You will need a 6.25x spacebar stabiliser.

My understanding is that I'll need 3 2x stabilizers for Backspace, Enter and Lshift, and I'm intending to get them from him. As far as the 6.25x bar goes, it's likely that I'll have to source it on its own somehow/mess with the 8x/10x stabs he's selling.

[Grimey]

My understanding is that I'll need 3 2x stabilizers for Backspace, Enter and Lshift, and I'm intending to get them from him. As far as the 6.25x bar goes, it's likely that I'll have to source it on its own somehow/mess with the 8x/10x stabs he's selling.

Cut + bend the wire = 6.25 stabilizer, I am not aware of an easy source for a stock 6.25 option.

Cool project though, I have put together a board from similar sources recently that I will probably be auctioning off here.
Pure PCB from tinlong, custom case made from cheap high-density particle board, PCB mounted switches I had hanging around, and the stabs mentioned.

[funkystuhero]

Cut + bend the wire = 6.25 stabilizer, I am not aware of an easy source for a stock 6.25 option.

Have you done this? Did you follow some sort of tutorial or did you see someone else doing it?

[domoaligato]

This is bending costar stabilizers but it is the same process to bend them for cherry just less bends.

[WhiteFireDragon]

Funny thing is, 3/16" is actually cheaper, so I will more likely go with that.
EDIT: 1/8" is also $24, so that's what my choice will be.

1/8" acrylic is much better than 1/16" initially planned, but I would personally still get something thicker since  it's not mounted on a PCB, and most likely you won't put standoffs near every switch. Also keep in mind that any acrylic that's thicker than 0.60" inches means that switches can't actually lock in place.

Have you done this? Did you follow some sort of tutorial or did you see someone else doing it?

Easiest and cheapest is to find an old board to harvest from, because there are zero online places that will sell you a loose 6.25x wire. You can try to make it, but clipping such a thick wire is not easy with normal tools. Maybe a dremel or saw to cut it. If you're rebending a 10x wire into 6.25x, just measure carefully and do it slowly, because you get 1 shot. I got my sets custom made to the correct length, but unfortunately it wasn't free.

[gnubag]

Funny thing is, 3/16" is actually cheaper, so I will more likely go with that.
EDIT: 1/8" is also $24, so that's what my choice will be.

1/8" acrylic is much better than 1/16" initially planned, but I would personally still get something thicker since  it's not mounted on a PCB, and most likely you won't put standoffs near every switch. Also keep in mind that any acrylic that's thicker than 0.60" inches means that switches can't actually lock in place.

Have you done this? Did you follow some sort of tutorial or did you see someone else doing it?

Easiest and cheapest is to find an old board to harvest from, because there are zero online places that will sell you a loose 6.25x wire. You can try to make it, but clipping such a thick wire is not easy with normal tools. Maybe a dremel or saw to cut it. If you're rebending a 10x wire into 6.25x, just measure carefully and do it slowly, because you get 1 shot. I got my sets custom made to the correct length, but unfortunately it wasn't free.

don't forget that with a thicker plate you won't be able to use plate mount stabs. (you have to use pcb mount)

[WhiteFireDragon]

1/8" acrylic is much better than 1/16" initially planned, but I would personally still get something thicker since  it's not mounted on a PCB, and most likely you won't put standoffs near every switch. Also keep in mind that any acrylic that's thicker than 0.60" inches means that switches can't actually lock in place.

don't forget that with a thicker plate you won't be able to use plate mount stabs. (you have to use pcb mount)

Ah yes, this is actually a pretty big problem. You can't mount plate-mounted stabilizers if the plate is more than 0.60", and PCB-mounted stabilizers won't work either since you have no PCB :/

funkystuhero, it's best if you just get the blank PCB. It might cost a little more in shipping from tinlong, but it's a more robust mounting solution for the switches and stabilizers, and less hassle with dealing with teensy/programing.

[funkystuhero]

funkystuhero, it's best if you just get the blank PCB. It might cost a little more in shipping from tinlong, but it's a more robust mounting solution for the switches and stabilizers, and less hassle with dealing with teensy/programing.

This was my first edit to my posting. Mashby kinda talked me into getting a pure PCB from tinlong, since it would cost just as much as a teensy. I'll deal with bending the stabs, I think I'll be able to handle it. My next step is to find/design a plate that is compatible with the pure layout.

[PepperPanda]

Bending the stabilizers yourself is easy and cheap. Go to some hobby store and get a 1/16 brass wire. Just make sure that your bends are as close to 90 degrees as possible.

[domoaligato]

Bending the stabilizers yourself is easy and cheap. Go to some hobby store and get a 1/16 brass wire. Just make sure that your bends are as close to 90 degrees as possible.

I was looking for this the other day.

costar is 3/64
and cherry is 1/16

Thank you so much.

[Grimey]

Cut + bend the wire = 6.25 stabilizer, I am not aware of an easy source for a stock 6.25 option.

Have you done this? Did you follow some sort of tutorial or did you see someone else doing it?

As covered by everyone else before I got to it, yes I have done this.  I have successfully done this with only needle nose pliers when the situation called for it.  A more proper bending tool for the right angle would be superior, but I don't have access to that at home.

[funkystuhero]

Alright guys, I with lots of tinkering, and snooping around, I was able to dig up a plate that fits a pure from the GH60 thread and it looks like this:

It looks fine, but I had to convert it to a dwg file with my minimal skill set and a rather annoying free program. The result looks alright, and there are some slight misalignments, but I don't think they will cause much trouble. The side however, looks like it will be too flimsy, although it might hold up fine. Can anyone measure their pure pcb to make sure it will fit in this case?

This is what I have so far:

The .dwg file is here:
 plate.dwg

Feel free to edit anything you see fit!