Author Topic: Kishsaver Club  (Read 210947 times)

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Offline Charizard^

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #100 on: Wed, 12 February 2014, 23:12:52 »
I just got my Kish the other day. I'm glad I didn't miss my chance to get one.

Show Image


Show Image


Where did you get this guy? It looks awesome, especially with that Clack.  :thumb:

Offline smknjoe

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #101 on: Wed, 12 February 2014, 23:19:08 »
Kishys are cool. What are the dimensions on those? They don't look like they are much smaller than an SSK. Maybe 1.5 in. smaller? I need to try a capacitive BS one of these days.
SSKs for everyone!

Offline HPE1000

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #102 on: Wed, 12 February 2014, 23:23:51 »
Last time I checked it was nearly the exact same dimensions as my filco. It's packed away in my closet now and I don't feel like getting it out to get a proper measurement, maybe tomorrow, it's late :/

EDIT: It's about 14" by 7"
« Last Edit: Wed, 12 February 2014, 23:28:20 by HPE1000 »

Offline wcass

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #103 on: Sat, 15 February 2014, 19:18:42 »
So I stripped my Kishsaver naked. Here's a picture of her topless.
54567-0

Since Hasu released his converter code, i have been thinking of where i could put a Teensy inside the case. It occurred to me that the sound board was level and close to the case seam. This daughter card is sandwiched between 5 pins and the top rim of a cutout. Interestingly, the thickness of the metal at the seam ... much thicker on the bottom than on the top.
54569-154571-2

The soundboard is about 4mm too low to be ideal, so i stuck the Teensy on with a blob of hot glue. By the way, hot glue looses it's adhesion when exposed to isopropyl alcohol, so i'm not worried about damaging either part.
54573-354575-4

I will need to trim the metal a bit for proper fit. 
54577-554579-6


Offline AKIMbO

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #104 on: Sat, 15 February 2014, 19:27:05 »
Is both the top and bottom of the chasis metal?
Mkawa Beta SSK | IBM SSK | IBM Model AT F | IBM F 122 | IBM Unsaver | LZ-GH (62g ergo clears) | HHKB Pro2 Type-S | HHKB Pro2 | Realforce 87U-Silent (55g uniform) | Leopold FC660C | Omnikey 101 (blue alps) | Kingsaver (blue alps) | Zenith ZKB2 (green alps)
| KBD75 (box reds)

Offline The_Beast

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #105 on: Sat, 15 February 2014, 19:27:54 »
So I stripped my Kishsaver naked. Here's a picture of her topless.
(Attachment Link)

Since Hasu released his converter code, i have been thinking of where i could put a Teensy inside the case. It occurred to me that the sound board was level and close to the case seam. This daughter card is sandwiched between 5 pins and the top rim of a cutout. Interestingly, the thickness of the metal at the seam ... much thicker on the bottom than on the top.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

The soundboard is about 4mm too low to be ideal, so i stuck the Teensy on with a blob of hot glue. By the way, hot glue looses it's adhesion when exposed to isopropyl alcohol, so i'm not worried about damaging either part.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

I will need to trim the metal a bit for proper fit. 
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)



Looks amazing!
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Offline HPE1000

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #106 on: Sat, 15 February 2014, 19:32:48 »
Is both the top and bottom of the chasis metal?
Yes

Offline wcass

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #107 on: Sat, 15 February 2014, 19:41:19 »
All metal case is one of the great features of this board. I think that the metal is a Zinc/Aluminum blend, so you might want to be careful when stripping.

Offline AKIMbO

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #108 on: Sat, 15 February 2014, 20:07:29 »
I regret not getting a Kishsaver from tin more and more everyday.  T_T



Mkawa Beta SSK | IBM SSK | IBM Model AT F | IBM F 122 | IBM Unsaver | LZ-GH (62g ergo clears) | HHKB Pro2 Type-S | HHKB Pro2 | Realforce 87U-Silent (55g uniform) | Leopold FC660C | Omnikey 101 (blue alps) | Kingsaver (blue alps) | Zenith ZKB2 (green alps)
| KBD75 (box reds)

Offline riotonthebay

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #109 on: Sat, 15 February 2014, 20:10:06 »
I regret not getting a Kishsaver from tin more and more everyday.  T_T

QFT

Offline sleepy916

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #110 on: Sat, 15 February 2014, 22:10:12 »
I just got my Kish the other day. I'm glad I didn't miss my chance to get one.

Show Image


Show Image

Nice, awesome click clack as well :)


Thanks!

@wcass - That thing looks awesome stripped down.
« Last Edit: Tue, 18 February 2014, 01:44:59 by sleepy916 »

Offline Monster-Toys

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #111 on: Fri, 21 February 2014, 09:39:20 »
Time for me to drop in  :)
here is my Kish:

55078-0


Good
- It is a KISHSAVER
- It IS a Kishsaver
- All Keys were there  :D... some now changed to qwerz-layout. Also the right shift key had the Word "Shift" imprinted and i changed it to a blank one. Can someone tell me which one would be authentic?
- IT IS A KISHSAVER
(sorry for beeing loud)

Not so good
- I was not able to clean everything until now. This big yellow spot on the top part resists and there are also some areas where the board collided with something red and the rubbed-off red whateveritwas seem to aspirated into the paint.
Does anybody have any Ideas how to clean it further?
- Heavy dent on the bottom - not a drama but also not great :-\
- Many paint chippings. I am not sure now how to deal with them. On the one hand it would be cool to get rid of the paint and the chippings and the yellow and red spots, spackle the dent and repaint it. On the other hand i want to keep it as original as possible and i have no idea how to recieve the exact tone and the exact texture.
- Broken plastic on connector. Please PM me if you have a connector in better condition that you do/will not need when the converter will be ready.

What to do:

- further cleaning the shell (as soon as i find a way) or a complete repaint
- tinker a spacebar-wire-thing
- repaint the barrel plate (It is in good condition but for a very small rust spot)
- change 2 springs (do they have the same base as model f springs/are they interchangeable?)

Offline snoopy

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #112 on: Fri, 21 February 2014, 09:48:23 »
Time for me to drop in  :)
here is my Kish:

(Attachment Link)


Good
- It is a KISHSAVER
- It IS a Kishsaver
- All Keys were there  :D... some now changed to qwerz-layout. Also the right shift key had the Word "Shift" imprinted and i changed it to a blank one. Can someone tell me which one would be authentic?
- IT IS A KISHSAVER
(sorry for beeing loud)

Not so good
- I was not able to clean everything until now. This big yellow spot on the top part resists and there are also some areas where the board collided with something red and the rubbed-off red whateveritwas seem to aspirated into the paint.
Does anybody have any Ideas how to clean it further?
- Heavy dent on the bottom - not a drama but also not great :-\
- Many paint chippings. I am not sure now how to deal with them. On the one hand it would be cool to get rid of the paint and the chippings and the yellow and red spots, spackle the dent and repaint it. On the other hand i want to keep it as original as possible and i have no idea how to recieve the exact tone and the exact texture.
- Broken plastic on connector. Please PM me if you have a connector in better condition that you do/will not need when the converter will be ready.

What to do:

- further cleaning the shell (as soon as i find a way) or a complete repaint
- tinker a spacebar-wire-thing
- repaint the barrel plate (It is in good condition but for a very small rust spot)
- change 2 springs (do they have the same base as model f springs/are they interchangeable?)


Welcome to GH! Nice to see you around here. :)

snoopy

Offline Monster-Toys

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #113 on: Fri, 21 February 2014, 10:07:19 »

Welcome to GH! Nice to see you around here. :)

snoopy

Thank you. :D... that maybe amplifies my chance to get a good-condition-connector.
Will it be sort of double post to post the same post at DT?

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #114 on: Fri, 21 February 2014, 11:31:46 »

1) I was not able to clean everything until now. This big yellow spot on the top part resists and there are also some areas where the board collided with something red and the rubbed-off red whateveritwas seem to aspirated into the paint. Does anybody have any Ideas how to clean it further?
2) Many paint chippings. I am not sure now how to deal with them. On the one hand it would be cool to get rid of the paint and the chippings and the yellow and red spots, spackle the dent and repaint it. On the other hand i want to keep it as original as possible and i have no idea how to recieve the exact tone and the exact texture.
3) Do they have the same base as model f springs/are they interchangeable?

1) You can try isopropyl alcohol and perhaps hot water/soap. Make sure you dry well after cleaning it though or else it will rust. Also something like WD40 might help to lift the stains.

2) You can powdercoat it. wcass had his stripped of paint and might know how to get the paintjob back to original condition.

3) They should be, yes.

Offline HPE1000

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #115 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 15:37:20 »
So, about my spacebar, I need help obtaining a proper metal stabilizer bar.

If I take the stabilizer bar from my model m and put it in the kishsaver, the spacebar just get stuck once it is depressed. Why is this?

Next on the list is getting a bunch of those stabilizer plastic inserts so I can convert this to a standard ANSI layout with model m keycaps. All my keycaps need replaced tbh. It has a mix between the stock, single piece keycaps that came with it from the start, and the rest are model m 2 part keycaps. Most if not all of the stock keycaps are dented really bad.

Offline HoffmanMyster

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #116 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 16:30:49 »
So, about my spacebar, I need help obtaining a proper metal stabilizer bar.

If I take the stabilizer bar from my model m and put it in the kishsaver, the spacebar just get stuck once it is depressed. Why is this?

I am not the expert on this, but I believe the stabilizer wires are slightly different sizes.  I think I read that somewhere but I can't remember where.  Perhaps someone can confirm.

Next on the list is getting a bunch of those stabilizer plastic inserts so I can convert this to a standard ANSI layout with model m keycaps. All my keycaps need replaced tbh. It has a mix between the stock, single piece keycaps that came with it from the start, and the rest are model m 2 part keycaps. Most if not all of the stock keycaps are dented really bad.

Both the plastic inserts and a fresh set of keycaps can be bought from Unicomp.  Keycaps here and you may have to contact them for the stabilizer inserts - I know people have bought them, but I don't know how to go about doing that.  (You may have known this but were just posting to tell us what you're doing.  In that case, I've provided the info for anyone else who's curious.  :)  )

Offline wcass

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #117 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 16:33:00 »
It sticks because the M spacebar uses a thicker wire than the F. I can make a wire with thick ends and a thin middle.
 
do you want a "standard" F stabilizer that fits a F spacebar or a M/F stabilizer (connects an M spacebar to an F body)?
 
Either way, I can make you a stabelizer. PM me your address.

I've ordered inserts from Unicomp ... let me find my notes ...
 
OK - for inserts, what you want to order is   
PRK Single Unit Key - Buckling Spring - printed
under "characters" type something like "4 horizontal inserts"
 
And if anyone wants a custom full set, open a support ticket with Unicomp and send an image of what key layout you want. You should then be able to order the set by doing something like this:
CPSET Custom Printed Buckling Spring Button Set  Comments: layout per support ticket #xxxx
« Last Edit: Thu, 27 February 2014, 16:50:10 by wcass »

Offline HPE1000

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #118 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 16:47:01 »
I guess M bar to F body would be the best because I can get a brand new spacebar from unicomp in that case, my spacebar is so dirty.

PM incoming, thanks  :)


Also, if/when I get this powder coated, how do you think I should go about getting this sticker off? The writing on it is really faint by now but I still like it, it says it was made in 83, I don't know what the orange sticker is for though.

stupid images rotating all the time when I upload them..

The bar with the stabilizer wire on it is from my model m, this spacebar looks identical so I guess it's a model m one as well, right? Model f spacebars are different I think.

Offline wcass

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #119 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 16:57:21 »
My label looked as faded as yours. I just peeled it off. I'll be making new label based on the original. I'm out of metalic silver stock so will be doing it with metalic gold. If anyone else wants a label in gold - let me know before i send mine through the printer. I'll need to know what text you want on it.

Offline Aer Fixus

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #120 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 17:04:20 »
I guess M bar to F body would be the best because I can get a brand new spacebar from unicomp in that case, my spacebar is so dirty.

PM incoming, thanks  :)


Also, if/when I get this powder coated, how do you think I should go about getting this sticker off? The writing on it is really faint by now but I still like it, it says it was made in 83, I don't know what the orange sticker is for though.
Show Image

stupid images rotating all the time when I upload them..

The bar with the stabilizer wire on it is from my model m, this spacebar looks identical so I guess it's a model m one as well, right? Model f spacebars are different I think.
Show Image


The space bar on top is definitely a Model M spacebar. I have comparison between the M and F spacebar in this album most of the way down: http://imgur.com/a/HuLNV

You will need to do one fo the following:
1. get a converter wire that fits the F body and M bar
2. modify the Kishsaver to take Model M spacebars (a permanent modification)
3. get a Model F spacebar and stabilizer. The ones from a F122 work, but a spare one is just as rare as a Kishsaver...

I've made working converter wires, but my solution was not optimal. I epoxied two different size of wire together and it works fine it just takes a lot of work to get it right and doesn't look very elegant.

A better option might just be to use the Model F thickness of wire and put ordinary scotch/thin tape around the wire where it needs to fit the model M bar.

There also was someone who said that they could print some spacers to fit a Model F sized wire into a Model M spacebar. That would be optimal instead of using tape or trying to find a metal tube of the perfect thickness.
               SOON: IN PROGRESS:

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Offline wcass

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #121 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 18:57:26 »
I use this stainless wire and this stainless tube. The wire is enough to do 25 and each foot of tube enough to do 6, so i have quite a bit extra. I'm not going to charge anything for this because it's not costing me anything. I use a Vice Grips and channel lock pliers to do the bending. I keep saying that i will do a video. One day.





Offline wcass

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #122 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 19:13:31 »
The label that i am printing for myself will look like this. I might put the IBM logo or buckling spring graphic on the right side - i haven't decided. The dot matrix font is the closest i could find. If anyone out there wants to volunteer to make a better match to IBM dot matrix, please let me know.

Again, if anyone wants one of these (or anything else that fits) on gold foil, PM me your postal address, text, and font choice.
55812-0

Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #123 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 19:31:57 »
The label that i am printing for myself will look like this. I might put the IBM logo or buckling spring graphic on the right side - i haven't decided. The dot matrix font is the closest i could find. If anyone out there wants to volunteer to make a better match to IBM dot matrix, please let me know.

Again, if anyone wants one of these (or anything else that fits) on gold foil, PM me your postal address, text, and font choice.
(Attachment Link)


I use this stainless wire and this stainless tube. The wire is enough to do 25 and each foot of tube enough to do 6, so i have quite a bit extra. I'm not going to charge anything for this because it's not costing me anything. I use a Vice Grips and channel lock pliers to do the bending. I keep saying that i will do a video. One day.


Wcass, I'd be interested in a wire spacebar adapter that fits a Model M spacebar to a Model F body. And one of the logos. However, I'm traveling right now. Can we talk when I'm back? I tend to lose PMs when I'm on Tapatalk/my phone :(.
« Last Edit: Thu, 27 February 2014, 20:16:08 by CPTBadAss »

Offline wcass

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #124 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 20:00:04 »
I'd be happy to send you one CPTBadAss.

I just whipped these up. What do you guys think looks better, the plain one in the earlier post or one of these?
55816-0
55818-1

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #125 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 20:02:50 »
I like the IBM logo
KMAC :: LZ-GH :: WASD CODE :: WASD v2 :: GH60 :: Alps64 :: JD45 :: IBM Model M :: IBM 4704 "Pingmaster"

http://jd40.info :: http://jd45.info


in memoriam

"When I was a kid, I used to take things apart and never put them back together."

Offline Aer Fixus

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #126 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 20:15:38 »
I'd like the IBM one if the logo wasn't angled. If it was closer to the top and said "Kishsaver" underneath (mimicking the F122 label) that might turn out interesting.

I'd also like to order one, but I can't read the last 3 digits of the ID NO...
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Offline HoffmanMyster

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #127 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 20:18:29 »
I like the IBM logo

Ditto.  Would pay money for one.  :)

Offline wcass

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #128 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 20:39:20 »
Labels will be free to all until i fill up the sheet i have. Just PM me what you want and your address. I might encourage you to donate a little something to a nice charity - like an animal rescue.

One more idea for your consideration. I can print grayscale ...
55826-0

Offline wcass

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #129 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 20:50:07 »
...
I'd also like to order one, but I can't read the last 3 digits of the ID NO...

I dropped my KS on a scanner and grabbed a high res image - then played with the color/contrast. Below is before and after.
55829-0

Offline HPE1000

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #130 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 21:07:16 »
...
I'd also like to order one, but I can't read the last 3 digits of the ID NO...

I dropped my KS on a scanner and grabbed a high res image - then played with the color/contrast. Below is before and after.
(Attachment Link)
I sort of did that with mine, took a picture and then turned up the contrast as high as possible. I'll PM you about a sticker I guess :)

I can't decide between the two IBM mockups ones you have, but count me in.

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #131 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 21:12:29 »
I think I would like the IBM logo small and in the top right corner, as in your scan there. Can you do mine like that?
KMAC :: LZ-GH :: WASD CODE :: WASD v2 :: GH60 :: Alps64 :: JD45 :: IBM Model M :: IBM 4704 "Pingmaster"

http://jd40.info :: http://jd45.info


in memoriam

"When I was a kid, I used to take things apart and never put them back together."

Offline HPE1000

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #132 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 21:24:02 »
I think I would like the IBM logo small and in the top right corner, as in your scan there. Can you do mine like that?
Ditto, that is what I want.

Offline wcass

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #133 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 21:36:34 »
like this?
55849-0

Offline HPE1000

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #134 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 21:38:21 »
Looks good to me  ;)

Offline jdcarpe

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #135 on: Thu, 27 February 2014, 23:00:06 »
Yes that looks amazing!
KMAC :: LZ-GH :: WASD CODE :: WASD v2 :: GH60 :: Alps64 :: JD45 :: IBM Model M :: IBM 4704 "Pingmaster"

http://jd40.info :: http://jd45.info


in memoriam

"When I was a kid, I used to take things apart and never put them back together."

Offline HoffmanMyster

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #136 on: Fri, 28 February 2014, 01:41:46 »

Offline rindorbrot

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #137 on: Sat, 01 March 2014, 08:29:18 »
This is my Kishsaver.
I went for the Industrial-look.


Offline mashby

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #138 on: Sat, 01 March 2014, 08:33:31 »
This is my Kishsaver.
I went for the Industrial-look.

Show Image


Looks great! It's so clean!

Other than scrubbing it down, did you paint the case, or anything else special?

Offline rindorbrot

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #139 on: Sat, 01 March 2014, 09:34:15 »
I had it painted by an car paint shop.
Other than that I only did the ISO-Layout and used a Teensy with hasu's code to make it usable ;)

Offline riotonthebay

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #140 on: Sat, 01 March 2014, 09:43:35 »
That looks absolutely awesome! A great example of what these can turn in to. I sincerely hope to get one some day…

Offline mashby

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #141 on: Sat, 01 March 2014, 12:52:02 »
like this?
(Attachment Link)

I like all your designs wcass, but I think this one is my favorite.

Offline wcass

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #142 on: Sat, 01 March 2014, 23:41:40 »
I have 16 stabilizer requests and i think i can stretch the tubing out to just cover that.

I also have 8 label requests. Everyone likes the stock label from post 134.

Offline mashby

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Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #143 on: Wed, 05 March 2014, 16:57:52 »
I futzed with the color of the picture I took as well to bring out the text on the label.



ID NO. 472X-41-08879
MODEL 200
PART NO. 6019284
DATE OF MFG. 26-1983
MADE IN USA BY IBM
               ARMONK, NY

Offline wcass

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  • Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #144 on: Wed, 05 March 2014, 18:31:26 »
Watch me make a spacebar stabilizer.

http://youtu.be/dA8IpiIgwxo
« Last Edit: Wed, 05 March 2014, 18:36:30 by wcass »

Offline HPE1000

  • Keycap Paparazzo
  • Posts: 2938
  • Location: Carolina Beach, NC
Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #145 on: Wed, 05 March 2014, 19:03:09 »
Watch me make a spacebar stabilizer.

http://youtu.be/dA8IpiIgwxo
I wouldn't have ever thought of doing that(wire tubing on thinner wire). Thank you for making these. :thumb:

Offline HoffmanMyster

  • HOFF, smol MAN OF MYSTERY
  • * Senior Moderator
  • Posts: 10794
  • Location: WI
Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #146 on: Wed, 05 March 2014, 19:11:14 »
Watch me make a spacebar stabilizer.

http://youtu.be/dA8IpiIgwxo

Very cool!  Thanks for sharing that.  :)   You've got quite the system there.

Offline dgreekstallion

  • Posts: 215
  • Location: Texas
  • B.S. Fiend
Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #147 on: Thu, 06 March 2014, 19:11:50 »
I'm incredibly impressed.
Recent keyboard fanatic.

Model F-122 convert.

Offline wcass

  • Posts: 506
  • Location: Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA
Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #148 on: Fri, 07 March 2014, 20:39:28 »
If you requested a label from me, you will be getting two labels - one silver and one gold. Replacement label "proof" is attached below.

Please check that you are on the list and that i copied your data correctly. Let me know if i need to change anything before i print (would like to do that Monday). There is room for 5 more.


Offline HPE1000

  • Keycap Paparazzo
  • Posts: 2938
  • Location: Carolina Beach, NC
Re: Kishsaver Club
« Reply #149 on: Sat, 08 March 2014, 16:26:00 »
Thanks wcass, now I need to carefully get my original sticker off of the back of the case just so I can save it :eek:

My to do list for this is large, I was planning on contacting the local powder coating place I wanted to use but their website it down, so that is going to have to wait.

I took it completely apart today, partly because my Q key was acting up and I am going to see what was wrong, when I press it, it makes this odd sound, first 3 presses are a normal switch, and the last 3 are the Q key. What could be wrong?
https://soundcloud.com/user343835333/kishsaver-spring-problem

My PCB is dusty, anything I should know about cleaning this thing? Proper way of doing it?

And my plate is not bad at all, it has very minor rust on it but I might paint it anyway.

I am still not 100% on if I want to convert it to ansi or keep it original, I need to make that decision when I get keycaps but I can't decide what I want to do.

Is this board going to need desoldered when we install the new controllers? I am thinking so.

Also, noob question I suppose, what is this thing?