[GB] MIRA SE - Custom 80% Keyboard (CLOSED)

[roostrc0gburn]

ninja, thanks for the update. if you still need a measurement for the diffuser, hmu. i can send you some caliper measurements when i get home later.

looking forward to seeing the main gb finalized, as i will not be able to resolve the manufacturer defects with my kit until all other orders have been fulfilled (per eason)

really excited to see the spacer, brass plate, and numpad moving forward!

[theillumedpanda]

What about an ISO alps plate? Or is that impossible?

[Pemdas]

I'm not in the group yet, I just blue myself. by thosepeoples, on Flickr


Tealios by thosepeoples, on Flickr

My Zeal order shipped so finally got to try Tealios and finish my build! Well almost, still need to get some bumpers/feet for the bottom but my ghetto bubblewrap mat is serving me well.

Board feels great! Caps are really discolored... maybe just dirty should give them a wash



Some issues I had.

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My weight has some lines on it, It's inside the board so it's not really that important but I'd love to get it shiny. How would I go about polishing this?

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All my screw holes on the top case part have a bit of rust on them. Is this something I should be concerned about?

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Last thing is one of my screws wasn't threaded I had an extra screw so it's not a problem, but never saw this problem before ha.

[Puddsy]

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I'm not in the group yet, I just blue myself. by thosepeoples, on Flickr

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Tealios by thosepeoples, on Flickr

My Zeal order shipped so finally got to try Tealios and finish my build! Well almost, still need to get some bumpers/feet for the bottom but my ghetto bubblewrap mat is serving me well.

Board feels great! Caps are really discolored... maybe just dirty should give them a wash

ohai, it's sifo's LZ-S, but also not

i like this board a lot

what blank set is that?

Some issues I had.

More

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My weight has some lines on it, It's inside the board so it's not really that important but I'd love to get it shiny. How would I go about polishing this?

machine marks, can't really do anything about those on stainless steel since it's so hard

i also have this issue on my SS weight

More

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All my screw holes on the top case part have a bit of rust on them. Is this something I should be concerned about?

also have this, nothing to worry about

More

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Last thing is one of my screws wasn't threaded :confused: I had an extra screw so it's not a problem, but never saw this problem before ha.

what in the ****

never seen that before, kinda neat

[user 18]

Spacer - I’m making it with a cut-out in the center to prevent the weight from being scratched and to reduce the weight of it. A solid sheet of stainless steel is heavy. I know people have mentioned aluminum and brass but a certain nmber need to be made to reduce cost.  Also can someone with a micrometer measure the thickness of the thin rim and send it to me?

i think i can borrow a caliper in the next week

I can do a measurement late next week as well, if that would be helpful.

[Unforgivable]

Just got my Mira today. The blue is really great. I regret not getting a Winkeyless top though.

Sadly mine too was plagued with those weird dark lines around the logo.

And the screw holes look rusted, any confirmation that it won’t be an issue?

Do I contact Ninja or Pho about the dark marks?

Edit: Just noticed my Acrylic is missing a piece in the front too, or wasn’t cut correctly.

Can’t wait to get my 2x PCB’s from Ninja to eventually build this puppy up. Really happy I went with blue.

Just got my Mira today. The blue is really great. I regret not getting a Winkeyless top though.

Sadly mine too was plagued with those weird dark lines around the logo.

And the screw holes look rusted, any confirmation that it won’t be an issue?

Do I contact Ninja or Pho about the dark marks?

Edit: Just noticed mu Acrylic is missing a piece in the front too, or wasn’t cut correctly.

Can’t wait to get my 2x PCB’s from Ninja to eventually build this puppy up. Really happy I went with blue.

[Photoelectric]

Yes, please document everything with the best photos you can take and send me a PM with a detailed list of defects.

[Pemdas]

I got the Mira S.E. (Sifo's Edition)

Keyset is Imsto blue blanks, and thanks for the ease of mind, was a bit worried about the rust.

[Puddsy]

I got the Mira S.E. (Sifo's Edition)

Keyset is Imsto blue blanks, and thanks for the ease of mind, was a bit worried about the rust.

ah, i figured that's what set it was

good color

[Photoelectric]

I got the Mira S.E. (Sifo's Edition)

Keyset is Imsto blue blanks, and thanks for the ease of mind, was a bit worried about the rust.

Sifo's LZ is exactly what I thought of when I saw your pictures.  Good "Sifo's Edition"  ) ) )

[iArson]

Mira SE by iArson, on Flickr

[theillumedpanda]

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Mira SE by iArson, on Flickr

Nice!

@Ninjadoc: I was at a mechanical keyboard meetup today and while it was good fun, I‘ve returned with a little dent on it, which buggs me a little bit. Those things can happen at a meetup, but it’s still a bit unfortunate. It‘s on the backside and thus not visible during regular usage, but I know it‘s there...

Do you carry bottom replacements? If you do, please let me know.

[Photoelectric]

Show Image

Mira SE by iArson, on Flickr

Nice!

@Ninjadoc: I was at a mechanical keyboard meetup today and while it was good fun, I‘ve returned with a little dent on it, which buggs me a little bit. Those things can happen at a meetup, but it’s still a bit unfortunate. It‘s on the backside and thus not visible during regular usage, but I know it‘s there...

Do you carry bottom replacements? If you do, please let me know.

Let me add this to the list of defective parts that need to be replaced.  It will most likely be a replacement for a fee in this case (to be determined what that would be).

[Etherealsound]

Kinda crossing my fingers here but there wouldn't happen to be any spare kits leftover from the gb?

[Puddsy]

Kinda crossing my fingers here but there wouldn't happen to be any spare kits leftover from the gb?

no

[ika]

I also received a board without PCBs, so I will be needing two of them. I didn't respond to his PM so I thought my case would be delayed until zzjayfree was able to acquire PCBs and shipped together but I guess not? I'm not in any rush so no need for special treatment, just putting this out there.


Quick thoughts, the blue is a little lighter than I expected but should look great with certain keysets. Anodizing is ok overall, quite a few minor darkened or splotchy areas, but this is fine. There is only one really noticeable splotcch and it's filling about 70% of the small "o" in the logo so it's fine as well. Wondering what the best way to clean this thing and maintain a uniform texture would be - probably just water and a clean cloth?

[Photoelectric]

Extra/missing PCBs that were needed to complete all the orders will be coming from a different source, so the last 8 MIRA kits were shipped from the manufacturer without the PCBs.  The PM you did not respond to was probably a notification that you'd be getting your kit shipped without the PCB.  I think the aforementioned PCBs have recently arrived, so they will be shipped to those missing them shortly.

[theillumedpanda]

Show Image

Mira SE by iArson, on Flickr

Nice!

@Ninjadoc: I was at a mechanical keyboard meetup today and while it was good fun, I‘ve returned with a little dent on it, which buggs me a little bit. Those things can happen at a meetup, but it’s still a bit unfortunate. It‘s on the backside and thus not visible during regular usage, but I know it‘s there...

Do you carry bottom replacements? If you do, please let me know.

Let me add this to the list of defective parts that need to be replaced.  It will most likely be a replacement for a fee in this case (to be determined what that would be).

I‘m fine with that. Do you need pictures of the dent? I could provide that in the evening, given that I manage to get out of Uni at a reasonable time.

Do you by any chance know how good the ano matches the original bottom part?

[Photoelectric]

Since the dent was not caused before you got the part, it's not really relevant where it is or what size it is, if you're asking for a replacement. It's up to you if you'll want to pay for a replacement top and its shipping cost.  I don't have an answer about what that would be yet.  I have no idea about your last question as we don't share the same color.  Typically there can be some slight variation in top and bottom colors among many kits (like TX84/87, red TGR Jane, etc.), it just varies on how *noticeable* this difference is.  It helps to have kits with acrylic spacers so if there is any slight difference in anodizing, the two differing parts won't be right against each other.

[Dreamre]

Show Image

Mira SE by iArson, on Flickr

Nice!

@Ninjadoc: I was at a mechanical keyboard meetup today and while it was good fun, I‘ve returned with a little dent on it, which buggs me a little bit. Those things can happen at a meetup, but it’s still a bit unfortunate. It‘s on the backside and thus not visible during regular usage, but I know it‘s there...

Do you carry bottom replacements? If you do, please let me know.

Let me add this to the list of defective parts that need to be replaced.  It will most likely be a replacement for a fee in this case (to be determined what that would be).

I‘m fine with that. Do you need pictures of the dent? I could provide that in the evening, given that I manage to get out of Uni at a reasonable time.

Do you by any chance know how good the ano matches the original bottom part?

Sorry to hear this. How did the damage happen?

[theillumedpanda]

Since the dent was not caused before you got the part, it's not really relevant where it is or what size it is, if you're asking for a replacement. It's up to you if you'll want to pay for a replacement top and its shipping cost.  I don't have an answer about what that would be yet.  I have no idea about your last question as we don't share the same color.  Typically there can be some slight variation in top and bottom colors among many kits (like TX84/87, red TGR Jane, etc.), it just varies on how *noticeable* this difference is.  It helps to have kits with acrylic spacers so if there is any slight difference in anodizing, the two differing parts won't be right against each other.

Without a price, I cannot say if I really want one or not. So if you could please give me an exact quote once you can figure that out, I‘ll consider it. I‘m not in a rush, so take your time.

Alright, I‘ll keep that in mind with the acrylic spacer.

Show Image

Mira SE by iArson, on Flickr

Nice!

@Ninjadoc: I was at a mechanical keyboard meetup today and while it was good fun, I‘ve returned with a little dent on it, which buggs me a little bit. Those things can happen at a meetup, but it’s still a bit unfortunate. It‘s on the backside and thus not visible during regular usage, but I know it‘s there...

Do you carry bottom replacements? If you do, please let me know.

Let me add this to the list of defective parts that need to be replaced.  It will most likely be a replacement for a fee in this case (to be determined what that would be).

I‘m fine with that. Do you need pictures of the dent? I could provide that in the evening, given that I manage to get out of Uni at a reasonable time.

Do you by any chance know how good the ano matches the original bottom part?

Sorry to hear this. How did the damage happen?

No clue, really. I didn’t guard my MIRA the whole event, so it could‘ve happened at any point. I just noticed it when we all packed our stuff and it was pretty disappointing to see, to be honest. There‘s always a small risk, but because my board is affected, this‘ll make me think twice before attending another meetup. Don‘t get me wrong, the meetup itself was super cool and I really enjoyed the Sunday afternoon, but the dent is one thing, that I wouldn‘t miss... :D

[Oblotzky]

I'd definitely be interested in another round, hope you'll consider it despite the obstacles of the first one

[DJ Shoko]

I'd definitely be interested in another round, hope you'll consider it despite the obstacles of the first one

Certainly would also be interested in a Round 2 for the Mira actually.

[ninjadoc]

Currently I'm not planning on a round 2 in the foreseeable future. I do plan on a numpad. After that we will see.

[p_blaze]

Currently I'm not planning on a round 2 in the foreseeable future. I do plan on a numpad. After that we will see.

I remember you mentioning a 75% in the works, will that happen after the numpad?

[Puddsy]

Currently I'm not planning on a round 2 in the foreseeable future. I do plan on a numpad. After that we will see.

I remember you mentioning a 75% in the works, will that happen after the numpad?

i don't remember seeing that at all

[p_blaze]

Currently I'm not planning on a round 2 in the foreseeable future. I do plan on a numpad. After that we will see.

I remember you mentioning a 75% in the works, will that happen after the numpad?

i don't remember seeing that at all

Mistype, it was a 65%

[techmattr]

Got my missing PCB in the mail today so that completes my order 
Thanks again for all the great work by everyone involved.

Do I need Plate Mount, PCB Mount or Screw In stabs?

[LightningXI]

Got my missing PCB in the mail today so that completes my order 
Thanks again for all the great work by everyone involved.

Do I need Plate Mount, PCB Mount or Screw In stabs?

PCB mount or screw in.

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk

[techmattr]

Got my missing PCB in the mail today so that completes my order 
Thanks again for all the great work by everyone involved.

Do I need Plate Mount, PCB Mount or Screw In stabs?

PCB mount or screw in.

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk

Thanks for the speedy reply. That's what I though but wanted to double check so I could order some before I went home today.

[iArson]

Oh missing parts are starting to ship?

[Puddsy]

Oh missing parts are starting to ship?

some orders had PCBs ship later due to some technicalities

iirc you got a PCB with yours, but i've been wrong before

[iArson]

Oh missing parts are starting to ship?

some orders had PCBs ship later due to some technicalities

iirc you got a PCB with yours, but i've been wrong before

I'm just waiting on my brass weight and my stabs.

[Puddsy]

Oh missing parts are starting to ship?

some orders had PCBs ship later due to some technicalities

iirc you got a PCB with yours, but i've been wrong before

I'm just waiting on my brass weight and my stabs.

ah, alright

i got nothing then

[henz]

i cant decide what kind of switches to put in mine. i have alot of vintage blacks and springs at home, but what i love is hiroses, and also have an urge to try silent silvers. HALP

[LightningXI]

i cant decide what kind of switches to put in mine. i have alot of vintage blacks and springs at home, but what i love is hiroses, and also have an urge to try silent silvers. HALP

Hiroses, leggo meme board

Sent from my mobile using Tapatalk

[Photoelectric]

i cant decide what kind of switches to put in mine. i have alot of vintage blacks and springs at home, but what i love is hiroses, and also have an urge to try silent silvers. HALP

Clearly the correct answer is MX Clears (stock spring).

[Puddsy]

i cant decide what kind of switches to put in mine. i have alot of vintage blacks and springs at home, but what i love is hiroses, and also have an urge to try silent silvers. HALP

Clearly the correct answer is MX Clears (stock spring).

mx black spring

but yeah

[Photoelectric]

i cant decide what kind of switches to put in mine. i have alot of vintage blacks and springs at home, but what i love is hiroses, and also have an urge to try silent silvers. HALP

Clearly the correct answer is MX Clears (stock spring).

mx black spring

That would be a downgrade, as the MX Clear spring is special in its characteristics, giving that extra cushioned feeling if bottoming out.  It's a big part of why I love stock MX Clears. (MX Blacks and their spring are nice too, but just not the same).

[Captainbuttmonkey]

i cant decide what kind of switches to put in mine. i have alot of vintage blacks and springs at home, but what i love is hiroses, and also have an urge to try silent silvers. HALP

Clearly the correct answer is MX Clears (stock spring).

mx black spring

That would be a downgrade, as the MX Clear spring is special in its characteristics, giving that extra cushioned feeling if bottoming out.  It's a big part of why I love stock MX Clears. (MX Blacks and their spring are nice too, but just not the same).

B-b-but what about the scratchiness?

[Photoelectric]

What scratchiness?  If you mean that some stems and housings are scratchy, it's unfortunately true.  That's why hunting for smoother switches and also lubricating helps a lot.  I usually stick with old stock Cherry switches for MX Black, Brown, and Clears (but prefer newer MX Blues, as vintage MX Blues just sound broken to me).  Does not need to be "vintage" with large logo--some older batches are just very smooth either through some use or combination with better manufacturing tolerances for those batches.

[Captainbuttmonkey]

What scratchiness?  If you mean that some stems and housings are scratchy, it's unfortunately true.  That's why hunting for smoother switches and also lubricating helps a lot.  I usually stick with old stock Cherry switches for MX Black, Brown, and Clears (but prefer newer MX Blues, as vintage MX Blues just sound broken to me).  Does not need to be "vintage" with large logo--some older batches are just very smooth either through some use or combination with better manufacturing tolerances for those batches.

Nah I was just being a bit flippant. Personally I don't really rate most cherry switches. Having said that the new tooling made silent blacks one of my favourite switches and I would imagine that will carry over to most of the others produced from recently onwards. I'll still think browns are awful though regardless =P

[Puddsy]

i cant decide what kind of switches to put in mine. i have alot of vintage blacks and springs at home, but what i love is hiroses, and also have an urge to try silent silvers. HALP

Clearly the correct answer is MX Clears (stock spring).

mx black spring

That would be a downgrade, as the MX Clear spring is special in its characteristics, giving that extra cushioned feeling if bottoming out.  It's a big part of why I love stock MX Clears. (MX Blacks and their spring are nice too, but just not the same).

B-b-but what about the scratchiness?

strong meme

[eksuen]

What scratchiness?  If you mean that some stems and housings are scratchy, it's unfortunately true.  That's why hunting for smoother switches and also lubricating helps a lot.  I usually stick with old stock Cherry switches for MX Black, Brown, and Clears (but prefer newer MX Blues, as vintage MX Blues just sound broken to me).  Does not need to be "vintage" with large logo--some older batches are just very smooth either through some use or combination with better manufacturing tolerances for those batches.

Nah I was just being a bit flippant. Personally I don't really rate most cherry switches. Having said that the new tooling made silent blacks one of my favourite switches and I would imagine that will carry over to most of the others produced from recently onwards. I'll still think browns are awful though regardless =P

My problem with stock Browns is that they are too light. Swapping in a heavier spring improves their feel significantly, IMO.

[Photoelectric]

I personally think stock MX Browns have their charm, though for some odd reason I find them by far the best with thin ABS OEM profile keycaps, especially those with that "soft touch" rubberized coating.  Recently I got a sampler of Kailh switches from NovelKeys, and I think everyone who hates Cherry MX Browns should give Kailh Browns (regular and BOX Browns) a serious consideration.  The bump is strong and quick, which is the complaint about Cherry Browns.  But I actually like the "long bump" of Cherry MX Clears and Cherry MX Browns -- it's just different and to me has nice tactility, combined with long travel distance.  I feel like I'm getting a relaxing finger massage typing on MX Browns with OEM profile keycaps, trying to not bottom out.  (I don't have any of those anymore, but I used to have a couple of keyboards like that, and sometimes I still try them on store displays).

[Captainbuttmonkey]

Ah that's interesting, I'm ok with the weight, it just doesn't feel like there is enough of a bump for me. Like a switch that is in between a tactile and a linear or something. I've been trying to decide what switches to use for my M65 and that gives me some food for thought. I've only heard great things about the new kailh box/non box switches but there are so many and a lot of them are clicky which I'm not sure I'm after. Maybe I should have a look at the browns or burnt orange? (I think there was something a bit off with the first burnt orange batch but it has been fixed now right?) Also, I assume they can be opened and lubed the same as a regular mx/clone, just a different mechanism for opening and closing? Are the particularly pingy at all or loud on the upstroke? Even if they are I find lube usually minimises this from my experience.

[Puddsy]

I personally think stock MX Browns have their charm, though for some odd reason I find them by far the best with thin ABS OEM profile keycaps, especially those with that "soft touch" rubberized coating.  Recently I got a sampler of Kailh switches from NovelKeys, and I think everyone who hates Cherry MX Browns should give Kailh Browns (regular and BOX Browns) a serious consideration.  The bump is strong and quick, which is the complaint about Cherry Browns.  But I actually like the "long bump" of Cherry MX Clears and Cherry MX Browns -- it's just different and to me has nice tactility, combined with long travel distance.  I feel like I'm getting a relaxing finger massage typing on MX Browns with OEM profile keycaps, trying to not bottom out.  (I don't have any of those anymore, but I used to have a couple of keyboards like that, and sometimes I still try them on store displays).

who are you and what have you done with photoelectric

[hervuli]

Potentially stupid question - just built my Mira, first time I've had a board with a Leeku PCB and I've having trouble programming it. I can flash the basic firmware (version L3_171209) just fine it seems, but JigOn gives me a "connection fail" error every time I try to connect to set up my keymap. If I understand correctly, there's no bootloader mode right? What am I missing?

Tried using several different USB cables and ports as some folks have said to do; same outcome every time.

[eksuen]

Ah that's interesting, I'm ok with the weight, it just doesn't feel like there is enough of a bump for me. Like a switch that is in between a tactile and a linear or something. I've been trying to decide what switches to use for my M65 and that gives me some food for thought. I've only heard great things about the new kailh box/non box switches but there are so many and a lot of them are clicky which I'm not sure I'm after. Maybe I should have a look at the browns or burnt orange? (I think there was something a bit off with the first burnt orange batch but it has been fixed now right?) Also, I assume they can be opened and lubed the same as a regular mx/clone, just a different mechanism for opening and closing? Are the particularly pingy at all or loud on the upstroke? Even if they are I find lube usually minimises this from my experience.

Putting in a heavier spring makes the bump a little more pronounced. I am currently in the process of swapping 68g springs into MX/Gateron Browns.

[Photoelectric]

I personally think stock MX Browns have their charm, though for some odd reason I find them by far the best with thin ABS OEM profile keycaps, especially those with that "soft touch" rubberized coating.  Recently I got a sampler of Kailh switches from NovelKeys, and I think everyone who hates Cherry MX Browns should give Kailh Browns (regular and BOX Browns) a serious consideration.  The bump is strong and quick, which is the complaint about Cherry Browns.  But I actually like the "long bump" of Cherry MX Clears and Cherry MX Browns -- it's just different and to me has nice tactility, combined with long travel distance.  I feel like I'm getting a relaxing finger massage typing on MX Browns with OEM profile keycaps, trying to not bottom out.  (I don't have any of those anymore, but I used to have a couple of keyboards like that, and sometimes I still try them on store displays).

who are you and what have you done with photoelectric

I’m confused...  This has been my opinion about Cherry switches for years.  Nothing new.

Ah that's interesting, I'm ok with the weight, it just doesn't feel like there is enough of a bump for me. Like a switch that is in between a tactile and a linear or something. I've been trying to decide what switches to use for my M65 and that gives me some food for thought. I've only heard great things about the new kailh box/non box switches but there are so many and a lot of them are clicky which I'm not sure I'm after. Maybe I should have a look at the browns or burnt orange? (I think there was something a bit off with the first burnt orange batch but it has been fixed now right?) Also, I assume they can be opened and lubed the same as a regular mx/clone, just a different mechanism for opening and closing? Are the particularly pingy at all or loud on the upstroke? Even if they are I find lube usually minimises this from my experience.

I agree that there are far too many MX-compatible switches now to make an informed decision.  For Kailh, I recommend a switch tester pack like the one from novelkeys.  There are still a bunch of other brands beyond those as well, for which you can also get samples.  I decided I’m fine not knowing how every switch compares to every other switch as long as every one of my boards is different enough from others and is enjoyable to type on (and I only keep a handful of keyboards).