Dactyl-ManuForm keyboard build

[Tshort]

I've designed a fork of the Dactyl keyboard by Matt Adereth with the thumb cluster from the ManuForm keyboard by jeffgran. I'm quite happy with it so far. Matt's Clojure code for generating the 3D model is really cool. With this fork, you can change the number of rows and columns pretty easily. Here's the 40% version I made:



Here's the link to my Dactyl fork:

https://github.com/tshort/dactyl-keyboard

I adapted firmware from the Let's Split QMK firmware here:

https://github.com/tshort/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/dactyl-manuform

This firmware allows you to use each half independently or together, and either side can be master.

In the Clojure code that generates the 3D model, you can also adjust the tenting, column offsets, and other parameters.

On one half, I wired this up using the standard method of wiring rows using the diode leads. I'm not great at soldering, so this took me a long time, and it was frustrating. On the second half, I used strips of 1/4-inch copper tape for columns and stripboard as the main row connection and support. The cut pieces of stripboard were particularly nice to use. With these strips presoldered and glued down, soldering is much nicer with one end of the diodes held down.



For more build pictures, see here:

http://imgur.com/a/v9eIO


The keyboard is quite nice to type on. I use a layout similar to my Atreus, so I don't have to adapt much.

The main glitches I still have to work out are (1) warping prints and (2) weak USB connection on the Arduino Pro Micros I used as controllers. I'm using 3D printers at a local Makerspace. I've had the most luck with a MakerBot. It's warping, though. This has led to failed prints. Even on my good prints, the warping at corners shows up. In one case, I had to adapt a connector to make it fit to account for the warping. A printing guru at the Makerspace suggested trying an upside down print. I haven't gotten a good 60% print yet, so I'll try that soon.

For the USB controller issue, I'll probably try to design a female USB connector into the keyboard frame and jumper that to the Arduino Pro Micro. There's plenty of room for that, and those should be easy solder joints.

On Shapeways, if you print the 40% version in their cheapest plastic (PLA), it's only $34 to print one side, so it's not bad if you want to try the ergonomic layout and thumb cluster.

[lkong]

This is beautiful! I want to build another one now.
But I still remember the time I spent soldering them keys in those tiny spaces.

[AMongoose]

Are those G20 caps? looks pretty good with the "bowl" profile. Do you miss sculpted key tops?

[jeffgran]

Just seeing this thread now. Dude! That is awesome!

I had always wanted the ManuForm to be purely generated by code but couldn't figure out a good way to do it. I will have to look at the clojure code and see how it is implemented. How did you get my thumb cluster in there, did you implement it in clojure and sorta "patch it in"?

[bruceme]

I built one, case printed on Thingiverse for $29 delivered, 50 cherry browns for $25, key caps off ebay for $25.  Wired it up and I'm fiddling with wiring and mappings now.  But it went really well and I will post pictures.  The case didn't print very cleanly (sloppy printer) and I had to whittle out most of the key holes.  But the design is very solid and I like it so far.  Once I'm happy with the mapping I'll post a review at some point as well.

[Tshort]

Just seeing this thread now. Dude! That is awesome!

I had always wanted the ManuForm to be purely generated by code but couldn't figure out a good way to do it. I will have to look at the clojure code and see how it is implemented. How did you get my thumb cluster in there, did you implement it in clojure and sorta "patch it in"?

"Patch it in" is a good explanation. I measured off of your model to get coordinates.

Sent from my GT-N8013 using Tapatalk

[TheGlyph]

This is way cool! The unique shape immediately makes me want to CNC a wooden one. If you still like it after sorting all the mappings out you should hit me up and we can explore a potential collaboration opportunity 

[Tshort]

This is way cool! The unique shape immediately makes me want to CNC a wooden one. If you still like it after sorting all the mappings out you should hit me up and we can explore a potential collaboration opportunity 

A wooden CNC version would be awesome. It might be a tricky cut.

Sent from my GT-N8013 using Tapatalk

[bruceme]

So here's my "real world" review...

My background... I'm a keyboard geek, I love thumb-boards like the Kinesis Advantage, I've built an ErgoDox and I immediately fell in love with this keyboard. So, I built one.

The build follow-up.  See my earlier comment on the build above.  One small issue since... the magnet wire doesn't strip cleanly (insulation sludge spoils the joint) with a hot solder iron and several of my joints have failed, I had to re-solder at a higher heat, seems ok now.  Obviously nothing to do with the design, that's on me, just letting others know.

On the firmware... it totally rocks.  I really love the multi-use keys and the way you can have a primary momentary function and a secondary held-key function.  That is invaluable and really makes a 4x5 layout even practical at all.  One thing I learned mid-way, once you've initially loaded the firmware on both controllers, it auto-updates the slave controller on reprogramming, also... there's function+Q resets the controller for reprogramming, both are super time saver if you're iterating on a mapping!

On the layout... the stock layout wasn't for me, so as-is the beauty of open-source, I created my own which is based on the kinesis layout with developer keys in the extended/lower thumbs.  I also added Colemak alternate layer, it's needed as the ';' is not in the standard pinky key on the Dactyl.  I also did a hold-mapping of "Z" with shift because I couldn't stop hitting it to uppercase.

Learning... I transitioned from Kinesis to this 4x5 Dactyle Manuform effortlessly.  The hangups are what you'd think... symbols and F-keys.  But I know where 80% are including '%' ... hehe. 

What's good...  It's super compact and goes anywhere. It's very comfortable, very similar to the Kinesis, it doesn't have a palm rest, but you're not supposed to rest your palms either.
The firmware totally totally rocks, best I've ever seen
I like the hardware dual Pro Micros is so much easier than trying to figure out a IO expander

What to improve... not much honestly.  A quirk of the dual-function key mapping is that keys you like to repeat (e.g. backspace) need to be double tapped and held to do this should you dual-map them.  It is honestly a bit of a pain to code with as the symbols are all over the place.  I may try building the next size up to see if that helps.

I published a pull request for my 4x5 alternate layout change and Tom accepted it right away.   I've been really happy and I'd tell anyone that likes this style of keyboard to do it.

and by the way... this entire post was typed using my 4x5 Dactyl Manuform

[D4vidH4mm3r]

This keyboard looks awesome!

I am trying to build the 5x6 version of it - so far I have printed and kind-of wired the right side. I am unfortunately a keyboard-building newbie. Do you have any hints on how to adapt the wiring for 5x6? I am currently using the build pictures and the wiring diagram on github for reference, but my attempts to extrapolate to 5x6 have not yet succeeded (I can only type "f" right now).

Sorry for the hassle. Maybe I should just have gone for 4x5 for the practice.

[Tshort]

I've printed a half of a 5x6, but I haven't wired it, yet. In theory, the wiring should be very similar to the 4x5 version. You just wire the extra row and the extra column the same. You wire in diodes the same along rows and connect columns directly. Then, connecting the columns and rows to the ProMicro is just a little different. In the following figure, note where it says "skips pin 4" and "skips pin A1" for the left side. Instead of skipping, you attach the extra rows and columns to those pins.

If you post close-up pictures of what you've got, I might be able to help debug. Does only the "f" key work, or does it produce "f" for other keys?

The QMK software should be set up for 5x6, but no one's tried it, so there might be bugs.

[D4vidH4mm3r]

Thank you a lot for the help. I tried following the instructions and though I have obviously not managed to do so correctly yet, there is some slight improvement: now the left-most column works, giving keycodes 9 through 14 from top to the second-last thumb button on the left.

Please excuse the sloppy wiring - I have not yet developed finesse.

Very delayed update: Thanks a lot for the row-driven wiring diagram. I found it much easier to follow. I have now for some months had a completed keyboard to type on (not quite every day though) and it is both fast and pleasant. I have started resenting staggered rows now. 


https://imgur.com/a/9H939

[Tshort]

I think you are very close! The main problem is that the connecting wires you have to the rows are in the wrong place. Each of these should attach to the common point where the diodes all come together. You have them on the wrong side of the diode at the end. Also, the diode at point A1 on your photo is backward.

[drawnwren]

It's been a while since you posted this. I'm curious if you have any updates. Do you type on it frequently? How do you feel about the design vs the flat thumb clusters? I'm debating building it, but would love to hear how it aged.

[Tshort]

I still use the 40% version as my main keyboard. No big complaints. I like the thumb cluster.

I may try a larger version to see how I like that.

[ak66666]

Thank you Tshort, I built two copies of this keyboard.
One with Gateron browns (the black one), another with Oatemu blues (the silver one).
Both with Teensies and modified Ergodox EZ layout from QMK project.
The Oatemu switches and diodes for the silver one were salvaged from a Tomoko TKL keyoard, from which I took the caps for the black one earlier.

I used the black one at work for a few weeks now.
Built another to use home.
Since I ran out of other switches I de-soldered the Tomoko and used its parts and the cable.
Used cat5 wires for the matrix, soft wires from a broken HDMI cable for the ICs.

Had to secure the Outemu switches with hot glue, their bodies differ from the Cherry MX and the clones.
I installed the 90 degrees rotated and set the with the glue.
Not some much hassle, just some more time needed for that.
Did not need to do that for Gaterons.

[Tshort]

Cool. Thanks for sharing! Do you like those keycaps with this shape? (I've been thinking of trying different keycaps.) -Tom

[ak66666]

Thank you again Tom for sharing your models.
I tried to modify Matt Adereth's too, to extrude the bottom portion down, so no separate legs would be sticking out.
I kinda succeeded in printing them, but then I saw yours.
Luckily I had not managed to use the switches and ICs at that moment.

Do you like those keycaps with this shape? (I've been thinking of trying different keycaps.)

Yes, they both are ok for me.
Mind they are just some noname caps sets from Aliexpress, nothing fancy.

The black ones are a bit too polished, the fingers tend to slip off a bit when I use it lazily.
But once I start typing that becomes practically unnoticeable.
Better say it is not as pleasant to touch then the white set, functionally they are just fine, may be a bit lighter and feel cheaper.

I tried to print caps with wider and flatter top, similarly to what you have in your pictures.
It turned out too rough on the top surface, really scratching my fingertips.
Also they didn't hold on the stems well. Remove it once and it won't stay fixed anymore.
May be it because the PLA I used, didn't try the ABS yet.
The result was ugly anyway, so I preferred the cheapest options from China.

Alex

[vvp]

I tried to print caps with wider and flatter top, similarly to what you have in your pictures.
It turned out too rough on the top surface, really scratching my fingertips.
Also they didn't hold on the stems well. Remove it once and it won't stay fixed anymore.
May be it because the PLA I used, didn't try the ABS yet.

Print with ABS. "Paint" with acetone (it will smooth them). Can be inserted on a switch and removed many times.
Of course, getting some keycaps from a shop is easier. I would recommend printing only the special shapes you cannot get in a retail shop.

[ak66666]

Thanks, will try.

Of course, getting some keycaps from a shop is easier. I would recommend printing only the special shapes you cannot get in a retail shop.

So I figured. May try to do that for the steno version.

[Cerasis]

I'm not quite sure about necro'ing threads, but i'm interested in building this board. 

Unfortunately though it'll take me a lot of effort to get myself some rj9 connectors. Would a usb-mini breakout work? i can get those quite easily and i have an extra cable for it too

I'd like to keep it as local as possible, though it might not be possible with the heat-set inserts, which i'll probably source from overseas.


Really interested in trying out an keyboard without the straight plate, was initially interested in just a normal dactyl but i think i would prefer the thumb cluster on this one in particular.

[ak66666]

Any connector with enough contacts should do.
The connection speed is too low to be affected by that.

I've just finished another copy with the halves connected by an HDMI cable.
The HDMI connectors fit into the slots just fine.
Inside it is a Planck on a single ProMicro unit.
HDMI has 19 wires, I only needed 10.
 
The beauty of this model is that you can remove the unnecessary parts from it, thus reducing the time to print.
I took out the teensy holder and the wire posts.

Love this board, all of them I built.
 

[obviouslygene]

I am looking to build one of these.
What's the difference between the pro micro and the teensy?
Currently looking to print the body.

[ak66666]

For me it primarily defines which of QMK builds could put in there.
Planck uses ProMicro, ErgoDox - Teensy.
Other than that - does not really matter to me.
May be they could be replaced, haven't got that far yet.

ProMicro clones are cheaper, if that's is important, but the clones could be shipped without the bootloader.
The original ones should be fine, but almost as expensive as Teensy.

IIRC Teensy has a couple more pins, enough to cover more keys, so each key may be programmed separately.
May be I am wrong though.

With ProMicro it is only 16 pins for data.
So for the 6x4 layout there are two options:
- use two of them, one for each half, like in Let's Split,
- or use only one for 12x4 matrix and duplicate/repeat some of the keys in the hardware.

[obviouslygene]

I am looking to print the cases but in Singapore the prices are insane for 3D printing services.
Would anyone be able to help me print them for a reasonable fee?

[ju6ju8Oo]

I am looking to print the cases but in Singapore the prices are insane for 3D printing services.
Would anyone be able to help me print them for a reasonable fee?

how much was it? and what material?

[ju6ju8Oo]

is the thumb cluster customizable? I'm thinking of 1 row instead of a cluster. Is it possible?

[ak66666]

IMO you'd need to edit the .clj file for that.
The thumb cluster parameters control its location related to the base keys.
It could be moved around, but not modify the number of keys or their position.

[ju6ju8Oo]

how much infill should I use for PLA printing?

[obviouslygene]

I am looking to print the cases but in Singapore the prices are insane for 3D printing services.
Would anyone be able to help me print them for a reasonable fee?

how much was it? and what material?

ak66666 helped me out here so if you would like you can ask him.
3D printing places quoted me 570 PER SIDE.
****ing ripoff.

[vvp]

3D printing places quoted me 570 PER SIDE.
****ing ripoff.

That seems way too much. Shapeways quoted me at about 300 for both sides of K80CS (which is slightly larger than Dactyl-ManuForm). That was four years ago. I doubt the prices went up.

Edit: Fix the price and time.

[ak66666]

how much infill should I use for PLA printing?

10-15-20 is more than enough.
Even 100% would be ok.
The walls are fairly thin, there are almost no internal cavities to fill.

[ju6ju8Oo]

how much infill should I use for PLA printing?

10-15-20 is more than enough.
Even 100% would be ok.
The walls are fairly thin, there are almost no internal cavities to fill.

What's the optimal number, or a good enough %? A seller on 3dhub asks for this.

[ak66666]

For the case 10-15% percent is enough.
There are no voids to fill, not that much of free space.
I printed all of them with 10%.
All the gaps between the outer and inner shells were stitched together just fine.

For the bottom plate - 15-20% just to seal the cells nicely.

PS: sorry, I sent an incomplete message before.

[ju6ju8Oo]

For the case 10-15% percent is enough.
There are no voids to fill, not that much of free space.
I printed all of them with 10%.
All the gaps between the outer and inner shells were stitched together just fine.

For the bottom plate - 15-20% just to seal the cells nicely.

PS: sorry, I sent an incomplete message before.

Thanks for your help. I guess I will go with the default option 25% then

[mustcode]

I'm thinking about building one with Alps. Anyone has an idea of how difficult would that be?

[ak66666]

Should be pretty easy.
If they fit the Cherry switch hole then no changes are needed.
If not then you have two options:
- either file them holes wider or affix the switch with the hot glue.
- or modify the Clojure code to have the hole for Alps. Luckily that is only one function/piece to modify.

[mustcode]

Should be pretty easy.
If they fit the Cherry switch hole then no changes are needed.
If not then you have two options:
- either file them holes wider or affix the switch with the hot glue.
- or modify the Clojure code to have the hole for Alps. Luckily that is only one function/piece to modify.

Thanks for the advice! I found these constants in the code after a quick glance:

(def keyswitch-height 14.4)
(def keyswitch-width 14.4)

I guess another project coming up for me!

[mustcode]

So, I think I successfully modified the code to make it fit Alps switch. I had to also adjust the "side-nub" and made it into something that an Alps switch can clip on to.
For those of you who are interested, first you need to adjust to switch size:

(def keyswitch-height 12.8 )
(def keyswitch-width 17) 

Notice that the width is a little wider than usual, that is to make room for the size nub. Here's the new side-nub code:

 side-nub (->> (binding [*fn* 30] (cylinder 0.8 keyswitch-height))
                      (rotate (/ π 2) [1 0 0])
                      (translate [(+ (/ keyswitch-width 2)) 0 3.2])
                      (hull (->> (cube 1.5 keyswitch-height 1.6)
                                 (translate [(+ (/ 1.5 2) (/ keyswitch-width 2))
                                             0
                                             3.2]))))

And that's it!

[ak66666]

That's great, I may build one with Matiases this way.

BTW, while you're at it - you may consider commenting out the wire posts and the Teensy holder.
They almost double the print time, yet have no use.
I had to remove them in the first print, then just modified the CLJ file.
It is somewhere near the end where the whole body is assembled.

[mustcode]

Oh, that is good to know. Thanks!

[jmg123]

I decided to make one as my first ergo keyboard, but annoyingly 6 x 5 size is just too big for all my print beds, so I had to get it via 3DHubs. The only mods I made to the clj file were to stop autoscad generating stl files that had weird issues around the screw holes , RJ9 connector and USB connector, and ak66666's suggestion of removing the wire posts (clj changes here).



As I had some left over UV resin , I though I would also give this a go  - the picture above is pre-curing. Having cured it tonight I reckon that it is still going to need a bit of sanding before spray painting, can't decided between dark blue or satin black.

 I have a stack of Kailh BOX Burnt Oranges ready to go, wiring that lot up will be a boring evening. Haven't got any keycaps for it yet, might just stick something cheap and boring on there until I find some I like (and can afford). This weekend I'll cut the bottom plate out of some 6 mm clear polycarbonate that I have knocking around from my last project on my mpcnc. After I sent it off for printing I though it might be good to mod the clj to put the screw posts on the inside, with enough of a lip so that the bottom plate can be hidden internally, ah well , maybe I'll do a little 5x4 on one of my printers and try that out.

[ju6ju8Oo]

any post curing pics?

[davkol]

Just spotted this build (source) on Reddit.

[jmg123]

any post curing pics?

I didnt unfortunately, after curing i still felt they needed a bit of sanding as there was still some lumoiness in places. 600/ 800 grit started taking off the cured resin, so in the end i decided to sand the whole lot of and us a sanding /filler primer combination.

[ju6ju8Oo]

any post curing pics?

I didnt unfortunately, after curing i still felt they needed a bit of sanding as there was still some lumoiness in places. 600/ 800 grit started taking off the cured resin, so in the end i decided to sand the whole lot of and us a sanding /filler primer combination.

I plan to first sand with 240 - 400 - 800, and then coat with resin, or maybe just sand it.
are you going to coat with resin after sanding?

[jmg123]

I plan to first sand with 240 - 400 - 800, and then coat with resin, or maybe just sand it.
are you going to coat with resin after sanding?

I went down the filler primer route in the end, as I needed some filler primer for another job. I am also making a macro pad using a lets split pcb, so for that i plan to print the case and try again with sanding and then resin. Also that case will be pretty much 90 degree angles so the sanding will be less of a chore.

[jmg123]

The left side is now done, I used Kailh box burnt orange switches, and some really cheap key caps from banggood. Tested with qmk, but I might swap it over to a port of the animus firmware from unikeyboard.io, just so that it is easier to configure.

I think i might get some of my own red dwarf (uk tv show) inspired keycaps printed, using the font from the show and a few appropriate novelties. What are uv peinted abs keycaps like? Does the printing wear off quickly?

Is there any advantage to having the left and right side independently plugged in via usb?

[flac.head]

Is this easy to modify for kailh's low-profile switches? Looks like this would be my perfect board then, but I have no idea where to start!

[mustcode]

Finally finished my Alps build