Cheap Aluminum Case vs. Expensive Aluminum Case?

[IbnAlfreak]

Hello everyone!

I'm about to pull the trigger on my first keyboard build. One thing I've really been wondering about is: what is the difference in quality of a cheaper aluminum case vs. an expensive TEX case? This one on Amazon is going for $58, versus the TEX case ranging to the $150 range. Does anyone have experience with both the cheap and more expensive cases?

Here is the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Anodizing-Aluminum-Mechanical-Keyboard-Compatible/dp/B06XKRRX3L/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1516736689&sr=8-7&keywords=60%25%2Baluminum%2Bkeyboard%2Bcase&th=1

Thanks!

[Kavik]

I'm interested in this too. I've been waiting over a year for MechanicalKeyboards.com to get more stock of black Tex TKL cases. I just checked, and they're finally back in stock, but I'm not sure it's worth spending $148 to upgrade a V80, especially when The Moon will arrive later this year. Something in the $50-60 would be preferable.

[macclack]

I can't speak to the quality of the GH60 aluminum case but I just recently purchased the V80 (Matias version), along with the TEX TKL case, and I really think it was worth the money, based on other custom keyboards I've purchased. The TEX case is very heavy, well machined, and the texture and anodizing are as good as I've seen. The V80+TEX case weighs about 1.6 kg. In fact, this quickly became my favorite keyboard. For what you get, I think it's a value.

Obviously it's difficult for me to compare to the Moon (I have one on order btw, so eventually I'll be able to compare the two) since it's only been released to consumers in Asia, but the premium $$$ for the Moon probably comes from the difficulty in manufacturing the curves and shapes of the case, the additional parts, like the weights, logo, etc, and probably the nature of it being a limited run.

[Kavik]

I can't speak to the quality of the GH60 aluminum case but I just recently purchased the V80 (Matias version), along with the TEX TKL case, and I really think it was worth the money, based on other custom keyboards I've purchased. The TEX case is very heavy, well machined, and the texture and anodizing are as good as I've seen. The V80+TEX case weighs about 1.6 kg. In fact, this quickly became my favorite keyboard. For what you get, I think it's a value.

Obviously it's difficult for me to compare to the Moon (I have one on order btw, so eventually I'll be able to compare the two) since it's only been released to consumers in Asia, but the premium $$$ for the Moon probably comes from the difficulty in manufacturing the curves and shapes of the case, the additional parts, like the weights, logo, etc, and probably the nature of it being a limited run.

Thanks for the feedback on the Tex TKL case. I've been waiting so long that I might as well bite the bullet because I probably won't get another chance for a long time.

[macclack]

Cheers. Hope you love it!

[exanile_tabasco]

Get the Tex. For someone just starting out and sticking to off the shelf products, Tex’s 60% anodization is top notch.

When you get into $300+ customs you start to understand the significance of quality. I still have a $100 grey 60% Tex that I still think is fabulous beside my extortionately expensive $300 FMJ R(3?). The other generic China aluminium 60% low profile case I had was utter trash and I threw it away. Tex is based in ROC not PRC and apparently it makes a difference. I know that a number of well known customs have been made in mainland China but evidently the mass market brands still insist on using utter garbage factories.

I also had the Tex TKL case for a Filco. It was very hefty and I had no doubts the aluminium was good but the anodization was slightly inferior to the 60%. I sold it last year because there is no path to move it up to a custom aside from using the Phantom. I don’t know what’s changed since then but the nature of the TKL case makes it difficult to line up the top and bottom halves properly. Put in the screws in a star pattern, it helps. Mine was the v2 version without a built in USB daughterboard, just a hole.

To be more specific, I had 3 generic cheap aluminium cases. 1 was discarded for having a weird bluish tint on the grey case and piss poor fitment, 1 black one from taobao that had mad scratches and poor fitment, and 1 high profile one that had a severely scratched weight and loose tolerances.

tl;dr Customs > Tex, but Tex >>>>>>> every single generic no name case out there

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rich1051414]

Well, there is a difference between bodies, mostly in the sound they make. If a metal body has a plate that is not supported enough by enough standoffs, they can sound really loud and harsh, and if the body itself lacks mass, the keyboard itself will be pingy from reverberating.

Personally, I don't think metal keyboards sound good unless the body has mass, and it has a LOT of standoffs holding the plate to the massive mody. A keyboard built like this would be expensive. However, lighter aluminum keyboards can also be expensive, so this doesn't immediately actually have to do with cost.

Just my subjective opinion on this.

[Zobeid Zuma]

Don't overlook the KBDfans 5° case!


http://zobeid.zapto.org/image/keeb/Zo64-18.jpg

[IbnAlfreak]

Thanks for the recommendation, Zobeid! That case is stunning, and also much better priced than the TEX cases. I think I found what I'm going to go with 

[Kavik]

For what it's worth, I did end up getting the TEX TKL case for my V80.

Once it's all put together, it's a nice upgrade. The V80's plastic case was rather flexible and did not sit flat on my desk (I had to put a folded sticky note under on of the feet). Overall, I didn't like this keyboard much simply because the case was not great. In contrast, the TEX case has no flex since it's metal.

Putting it together is a little bit of a pain because the PCB/plate assembly is not held in place by anything. It just rests on a shelf. Once it's screwed together tight, it doesn't move, but getting it just right so that the spacing on each side of keycaps is even is a little tedious.

As others have mentioned, it does not come with a daughterboard, but rather a fixed cable that attaches directly to the PCB. The V80's plastic case has a daughterboard screwed into it, so I removed that and used some electrical tape to secure it in the TEX case. Once the main PCB is resting on top of it and the two halves of the case are assembled, the daughterboard is held fairly tight in place, so voilà - detachable cable.

[macclack]

For what it's worth, I did end up getting the TEX TKL case for my V80.

Once it's all put together, it's a nice upgrade. The V80's plastic case was rather flexible and did not sit flat on my desk (I had to put a folded sticky note under on of the feet). Overall, I didn't like this keyboard much simply because the case was not great. In contrast, the TEX case has no flex since it's metal.

Putting it together is a little bit of a pain because the PCB/plate assembly is not held in place by anything. It just rests on a shelf. Once it's screwed together tight, it doesn't move, but getting it just right so that the spacing on each side of keycaps is even is a little tedious.

As others have mentioned, it does not come with a daughterboard, but rather a fixed cable that attaches directly to the PCB. The V80's plastic case has a daughterboard screwed into it, so I removed that and used some electrical tape to secure it in the TEX case. Once the main PCB is resting on top of it and the two halves of the case are assembled, the daughterboard is held fairly tight in place, so voilà - detachable cable.

Congratulations on the purchase! The cable situation isn't optimal. If it's any consolation, I'm working on a project with John at Zap! cables to create a custom detachable solution for the TEX case. I think it's going to be cool. Once I get the parts from him, I'll put together a build log on imgur so you can see the final product. I'll shoot over the links.

[Kavik]

For what it's worth, I did end up getting the TEX TKL case for my V80.

Once it's all put together, it's a nice upgrade. The V80's plastic case was rather flexible and did not sit flat on my desk (I had to put a folded sticky note under on of the feet). Overall, I didn't like this keyboard much simply because the case was not great. In contrast, the TEX case has no flex since it's metal.

Putting it together is a little bit of a pain because the PCB/plate assembly is not held in place by anything. It just rests on a shelf. Once it's screwed together tight, it doesn't move, but getting it just right so that the spacing on each side of keycaps is even is a little tedious.

As others have mentioned, it does not come with a daughterboard, but rather a fixed cable that attaches directly to the PCB. The V80's plastic case has a daughterboard screwed into it, so I removed that and used some electrical tape to secure it in the TEX case. Once the main PCB is resting on top of it and the two halves of the case are assembled, the daughterboard is held fairly tight in place, so voilà - detachable cable.

Congratulations on the purchase! The cable situation isn't optimal. If it's any consolation, I'm working on a project with John at Zap! cables to create a custom detachable solution for the TEX case. I think it's going to be cool. Once I get the parts from him, I'll put together a build log on imgur so you can see the final product. I'll shoot over the links.

That sounds like a good idea. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

Even though my jury-rigged (apparently, it's "jury-rigged" and not "jerry-rigged". Who knew?) solution isn't the best, I prefer it to setup in the original case because the USB port was in the bottom instead of at the back, and the opening was so small that I really could only use the cable that came with the V80. Now I can use essentially any cable, and the cables attach more positively.

[macclack]

For what it's worth, I did end up getting the TEX TKL case for my V80.

Once it's all put together, it's a nice upgrade. The V80's plastic case was rather flexible and did not sit flat on my desk (I had to put a folded sticky note under on of the feet). Overall, I didn't like this keyboard much simply because the case was not great. In contrast, the TEX case has no flex since it's metal.

Putting it together is a little bit of a pain because the PCB/plate assembly is not held in place by anything. It just rests on a shelf. Once it's screwed together tight, it doesn't move, but getting it just right so that the spacing on each side of keycaps is even is a little tedious.

As others have mentioned, it does not come with a daughterboard, but rather a fixed cable that attaches directly to the PCB. The V80's plastic case has a daughterboard screwed into it, so I removed that and used some electrical tape to secure it in the TEX case. Once the main PCB is resting on top of it and the two halves of the case are assembled, the daughterboard is held fairly tight in place, so voilà - detachable cable.

Congratulations on the purchase! The cable situation isn't optimal. If it's any consolation, I'm working on a project with John at Zap! cables to create a custom detachable solution for the TEX case. I think it's going to be cool. Once I get the parts from him, I'll put together a build log on imgur so you can see the final product. I'll shoot over the links.

That sounds like a good idea. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

Even though my jury-rigged (apparently, it's "jury-rigged" and not "jerry-rigged". Who knew?) solution isn't the best, I prefer it to setup in the original case because the USB port was in the bottom instead of at the back, and the opening was so small that I really could only use the cable that came with the V80. Now I can use essentially any cable, and the cables attach more positively.

Do you mind posting a picture of what that looks like?

[Kavik]

Here's an external picture. I didn't want to take everything apart again to get internal photos. The disadvantage is that plugging the cable in pushes the port back slightly, but it seems that the force to pull the cable out resets its position. Before I used the electrical tape to secure it, it got set back too far after a few plug-ins for the USB cable to fit all the way in.

I mounted it so that the daughterboard PCB is on the bottom, against the case, so that I could more easily tape it down. I'm probably making it sound more complicated than it is.

[Zobeid Zuma]

Here's an external picture. I didn't want to take everything apart again to get internal photos. The disadvantage is that plugging the cable in pushes the port back slightly, but it seems that the force to pull the cable out resets its position. Before I used the electrical tape to secure it, it got set back too far after a few plug-ins for the USB cable to fit all the way in.

I mounted it so that the daughterboard PCB is on the bottom, against the case, so that I could more easily tape it down. I'm probably

Looks like a job for Sugru?

I'm not sure I understand from your description exactly how that works.  I think I did run into a similar situation with my Phantom PCB and TEX TKL case, though.  The case was designed for a Filco board, and it had a cable with a funky not-USB connector on the end.  The Phantom, on the other hand, has a USB Mini connector on the controller, which is on the back of the PCB way down inside the case, about three inches away from the case opening.

I ignored the funky cable, got a new USB Mini cable, used a rasp to grind down the plastic housing until it would fit inside the case, and I secured it into the case opening with Sugru.  The only down side is that it's not removable this way.  There's just a black plastic-rubber (hardened Sugru) plug in the back of the keyboard with the cable sprouting from it.

I could have rigged up an adapter to make the cable removable in some way—but I just didn't have the patience for that.  (Also, if the cable was removable I'd probably just lose it anyhow!)

[Kevadu]

I got a Tex for my SMK TKL and the lack of a detachable cable is something that really bothers me.  I do have a daughtercard I can use so I'm in pretty much the same position as Kavik, but I would not trust electrical tape to hold very well.

Really the right way to do this is to drill a couple holes in the case so you can attach the daughtercard with small bolts.  The aluminum is not very thick in that area, around 3mm.  A normal hand drill should be enough.  But I haven't actually done it yet...

[Leslieann]

I've used hot glue to hold usb ports like this in place (my Filco was this way for a couple years before the connector failed), it's fine so long as you are not wrenching on it.

[macclack]

Here's an external picture. I didn't want to take everything apart again to get internal photos. The disadvantage is that plugging the cable in pushes the port back slightly, but it seems that the force to pull the cable out resets its position. Before I used the electrical tape to secure it, it got set back too far after a few plug-ins for the USB cable to fit all the way in.

I mounted it so that the daughterboard PCB is on the bottom, against the case, so that I could more easily tape it down. I'm probably

Looks like a job for Sugru?

I'm not sure I understand from your description exactly how that works.  I think I did run into a similar situation with my Phantom PCB and TEX TKL case, though.  The case was designed for a Filco board, and it had a cable with a funky not-USB connector on the end.  The Phantom, on the other hand, has a USB Mini connector on the controller, which is on the back of the PCB way down inside the case, about three inches away from the case opening.

I ignored the funky cable, got a new USB Mini cable, used a rasp to grind down the plastic housing until it would fit inside the case, and I secured it into the case opening with Sugru.  The only down side is that it's not removable this way.  There's just a black plastic-rubber (hardened Sugru) plug in the back of the keyboard with the cable sprouting from it.

I could have rigged up an adapter to make the cable removable in some way—but I just didn't have the patience for that.  (Also, if the cable was removable I'd probably just lose it anyhow!)

That's really funny to me because I used Sugru on my Tex case to plug the hole that the USB cable came out of in order to anchor the cable and prevent it from pulling on the PCB and also to create a nice rubber patch for the hole. I thought I was the only one who used that amazing product!

[macclack]

Here's an external picture. I didn't want to take everything apart again to get internal photos. The disadvantage is that plugging the cable in pushes the port back slightly, but it seems that the force to pull the cable out resets its position. Before I used the electrical tape to secure it, it got set back too far after a few plug-ins for the USB cable to fit all the way in.

I mounted it so that the daughterboard PCB is on the bottom, against the case, so that I could more easily tape it down. I'm probably making it sound more complicated than it is.

(Attachment Link)

Thanks for posting the photo. I agree with Zobeid Zuma about the Sugru. It's works really well and it's non-conductive so you don't have to worry about using it on a PCB.

[Etherealsound]

Just to jump in on this thread, does anyone know what it means when an aluminum case is said to be 6061, etc? What does this mean and does it reflect quality in any way?

[Puddsy]

Just to jump in on this thread, does anyone know what it means when an aluminum case is said to be 6061, etc? What does this mean and does it reflect quality in any way?

that's the alloy, doesn't really matter

[Kavik]

Just to jump in on this thread, does anyone know what it means when an aluminum case is said to be 6061, etc? What does this mean and does it reflect quality in any way?

For a more detailed explanation, look for a reply by mkawa about 1/3 of the way down in this thread: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49632.0

[BucklingSpring]

Please lecture me. 5000 is crap, 6000 is entry level for non critical aerospace parts and 7000 is top grade Aluminum.

I understand hardness and other fine alloy properties for a tool, a blade or a component subjected to stress. But a keyboard case?

Unless you want to toy with the surface, what difference does it make in our beloved keyboard world applications?

[Puddsy]

Please lecture me. 5000 is crap, 6000 is entry level for non critical aerospace parts and 7000 is top grade Aluminum.

I understand hardness and other fine alloy properties for a tool, a blade or a component subjected to stress. But a keyboard case?

Unless you want to toy with the surface, what difference does it make in our beloved keyboard world applications?

the first number is only indicative of the metal the alu has been alloyed with

TGR boards are made of 5052

Mira is made of 7075

it's just cool, every board could be made of 6061 and it would be fine, but there's some cool stuff you can do with other alloys that 6061 isn't as good at

[Leslieann]

Please lecture me. 5000 is crap, 6000 is entry level for non critical aerospace parts and 7000 is top grade Aluminum.

I understand hardness and other fine alloy properties for a tool, a blade or a component subjected to stress. But a keyboard case?

There is no such thing as aerospace grade, it's a marketing term, aerospace uses whatever works best or the most cost effective for that application.

6000 series is the one you see most often not because it's best, but simply that it is relatively cheap, plentiful and mills easily. In a computer case, you are correct, it could be a garbage grade and not matter.

[Etherealsound]

Just to jump in on this thread, does anyone know what it means when an aluminum case is said to be 6061, etc? What does this mean and does it reflect quality in any way?

that's the alloy, doesn't really matter

Interesting reads, been looking more into different aluminum and the anodizing process. Thanks for the link!

[IbnAlfreak]

Don't overlook the KBDfans 5° case!

Well, I bit the bullet and bought it! I was going to hold off for a bit until I saw their inventory drop from 15 to 6 in two days. I can't wait to get started on my build now!

[Zobeid Zuma]

Don't overlook the KBDfans 5° case!

Well, I bit the bullet and bought it! I was going to hold off for a bit until I saw their inventory drop from 15 to 6 in two days. I can't wait to get started on my build now!

Here's a tip…  Last night I realized I had some left over Sorbothane® sheet in the closet, so I cut a piece to stick in the bottom of my 5° case.  It was ⅛" thick 40 duro (very soft) material, and it was exactly the right thickness to fit between the case and PCB.  Sorbothane is sticky stuff.  I let it stick to the case bottom, and then I put on some baby powder to keep it from gluing my PCB permanently into place!  I had to use a canned air blower to get rid of the excess, or else I think there would have been white powder leaking out of my keyboard for weeks to come.

It gives the keyboard that extra bit of heft and dampens any sound from resonating inside the case.  It was pretty solid before, but now it's as solid as an anvil.

[IbnAlfreak]

Don't overlook the KBDfans 5° case!

Well, I bit the bullet and bought it! I was going to hold off for a bit until I saw their inventory drop from 15 to 6 in two days. I can't wait to get started on my build now!

Here's a tip…  Last night I realized I had some left over Sorbothane® sheet in the closet, so I cut a piece to stick in the bottom of my 5° case.  It was ⅛" thick 40 duro (very soft) material, and it was exactly the right thickness to fit between the case and PCB.  Sorbothane is sticky stuff.  I let it stick to the case bottom, and then I put on some baby powder to keep it from gluing my PCB permanently into place!  I had to use a canned air blower to get rid of the excess, or else I think there would have been white powder leaking out of my keyboard for weeks to come.

It gives the keyboard that extra bit of heft and dampens any sound from resonating inside the case.  It was pretty solid before, but now it's as solid as an anvil.

I'll definitely take that into consideration. If I don't do it immediately, I can still take out the PCB at a later time and do this. Thanks for the recommendation!

[Kavik]

Don't overlook the KBDfans 5° case!

Well, I bit the bullet and bought it! I was going to hold off for a bit until I saw their inventory drop from 15 to 6 in two days. I can't wait to get started on my build now!

Here's a tip…  Last night I realized I had some left over Sorbothane® sheet in the closet, so I cut a piece to stick in the bottom of my 5° case.  It was ⅛" thick 40 duro (very soft) material, and it was exactly the right thickness to fit between the case and PCB.  Sorbothane is sticky stuff.  I let it stick to the case bottom, and then I put on some baby powder to keep it from gluing my PCB permanently into place!  I had to use a canned air blower to get rid of the excess, or else I think there would have been white powder leaking out of my keyboard for weeks to come.

It gives the keyboard that extra bit of heft and dampens any sound from resonating inside the case.  It was pretty solid before, but now it's as solid as an anvil.

I've been curious about trying this myself.
Questions:
1. The Amazon product page says it can cause discoloration after prolonged contact with a surface. Does this have any effect on metal finishes (anodization)?
2. Is it sticky like an adhesive (glue, tape), or is it just high friction like rubber?
3. The product page also recommends cutting circular pieces. Do you just cut a few circles and put them in the case, or do you line the entire bottom of the case?
4. Does this work as well for top mounted cases, or is this just effective on tray mounted cases?

[Zobeid Zuma]

I've been curious about trying this myself.
Questions:
1. The Amazon product page says it can cause discoloration after prolonged contact with a surface. Does this have any effect on metal finishes (anodization)?
2. Is it sticky like an adhesive (glue, tape), or is it just high friction like rubber?
3. The product page also recommends cutting circular pieces. Do you just cut a few circles and put them in the case, or do you line the entire bottom of the case?
4. Does this work as well for top mounted cases, or is this just effective on tray mounted cases?

I never read that product page, so I just proceeded with blind ignorance.

1. I would be very surprised if it managed to discolor anodized aluminum, which is a very tough and inert surface.  But does it even matter?  It's on the inside of the case.  Nobody's going to be looking at it.

2. It's sort of in between.  The more porous the surface, the harder it clings.  Card stock is really hard to peel off, for example, though it does come off cleanly.  I believe it's also possible to get Sorbothane with real adhesive on it, but I can't see any way that would be needed in a keyboard case.

3. I didn't know I was supposed to cut circular pieces.  I just cut a rectangle to fit my case and then started cutting holes for the supports, reset button, etc.  It's awkward to cut because it's so stretchy and rubbery.  I used sharp scissors where I could.  To make holes I first marked them, then used a rounded pocket knife (spey blade) to press down into the rubber and cut slits until I had a square that I could pop out.  It's not a thing of beauty, but it works fine.

4. I can only speculate.  I think the better it fills the space between the case and PCB, the better it'll work.  I also used this stuff on a Phantom TKL with a TEX case, and the PCB and plate aren't “mounted” in any traditional sense.  Everything is sandwiched in the case so tightly that the PCB is fully supported by the Sorbothane and nothing can shift at all.  (I ordered a ⅒" sheet for that case, but they sent me ⅛" instead, which is why it's so tightly packed and probably works better than what I'd planned.)