Author Topic: [GB COMPLETE] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, More available soon  (Read 36393 times)

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Offline TheKeyCompany

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Mainly USB cable related. I came across a post describing cable issues they ran into and wanted to see if others had to perform any workarounds as well.

What part in particular are you needing info on?

This is how to route the USB cable on a TKC1800.

Offline Bizpit

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Any estimate on when the form for the extra Tanzanite Blue's will go up?

I had a co-worker that fell in love with mine (pics once MaxKey Calm Depths arrives) who wants one for himself.

Offline TheKeyCompany

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Any estimate on when the form for the extra Tanzanite Blue's will go up?

I had a co-worker that fell in love with mine (pics once MaxKey Calm Depths arrives) who wants one for himself.

It was up, closed, and invoiced last week. Sorry you missed it. Donít worry, I have more coming. Not soon, but over the next few months.

Offline lemur

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... I will be re-upping plates and PCBs later this month. Should be about a 6 week lead time. ...

I presume this mid-june post means that new PCBs will be available sometime August-ish?

I am looking at getting just a PCB, I presume this may be possible sometime in the future based on the above?

Thanks!
keyboards

Offline TheKeyCompany

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... I will be re-upping plates and PCBs later this month. Should be about a 6 week lead time. ...

I presume this mid-june post means that new PCBs will be available sometime August-ish?

I am looking at getting just a PCB, I presume this may be possible sometime in the future based on the above?

Thanks!

Yes, there will be more stock coming right around then.

Offline Overchecken8

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Any update on when the white cases might be in?

Offline TheKeyCompany

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Any update on when the white cases might be in?

Iím supposed to pick them up this Friday. Theyíll ship Monday if all goes to plan.

Offline EternalD

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Any update on a build log? Still hesitant to assemble mine and waiting for GMK Laser anyway.

Offline TheKeyCompany

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Any update on a build log? Still hesitant to assemble mine and waiting for GMK Laser anyway.

Sorry, I know, its overdue.

The only thing you really need to know aside from the basics of keyboard building are:

1. Dont over tighten the screws on the stabs. Snug is all you need. This goes for any board with screw in stabs, if you over tighten it can cut through the solder mask and short the board.
2. The USB cable gets routed this way.
3. There are no screws. The plate / PCB sub assembly will set into the top portion of the case and align themselves with the large pins molded into the plastic case.
4. Programming : QMK has a ton of resources available. But the PCB comes pre-programmed for the most common 1800 layout. Im about to update another keymap that has the 2u "+" as the one pre programmed uses the 1u "+"

I hope this helps a little for now. I am leaving town tomorrow for KeyCon, will return on Sunday and will start shipping Drifter. After that I should be able to find time.

If you have further questions, GeekHack is a wealth of information regarding keyboard building. Just ask, many are happy to help!


Offline Corgi Butts

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Thanks for the update.  Will the updated keymap be posted on your site?

Offline EternalD

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Any update on a build log? Still hesitant to assemble mine and waiting for GMK Laser anyway.

Sorry, I know, its overdue.

The only thing you really need to know aside from the basics of keyboard building are:

1. Dont over tighten the screws on the stabs. Snug is all you need. This goes for any board with screw in stabs, if you over tighten it can cut through the solder mask and short the board.
2. The USB cable gets routed this way.
3. There are no screws. The plate / PCB sub assembly will set into the top portion of the case and align themselves with the large pins molded into the plastic case.
4. Programming : QMK has a ton of resources available. But the PCB comes pre-programmed for the most common 1800 layout. Im about to update another keymap that has the 2u "+" as the one pre programmed uses the 1u "+"

I hope this helps a little for now. I am leaving town tomorrow for KeyCon, will return on Sunday and will start shipping Drifter. After that I should be able to find time.

If you have further questions, GeekHack is a wealth of information regarding keyboard building. Just ask, many are happy to help!

Thanks for the tips, I'll probably assemble it all soon. Look forward to the video!

Offline portbaron

  • Posts: 282
Any update on a build log? Still hesitant to assemble mine and waiting for GMK Laser anyway.

Sorry, I know, its overdue.

The only thing you really need to know aside from the basics of keyboard building are:

1. Dont over tighten the screws on the stabs. Snug is all you need. This goes for any board with screw in stabs, if you over tighten it can cut through the solder mask and short the board.
2. The USB cable gets routed this way.
3. There are no screws. The plate / PCB sub assembly will set into the top portion of the case and align themselves with the large pins molded into the plastic case.
4. Programming : QMK has a ton of resources available. But the PCB comes pre-programmed for the most common 1800 layout. Im about to update another keymap that has the 2u "+" as the one pre programmed uses the 1u "+"

Edit - nvm. I just took out the pcb and looked at it lol.
« Last Edit: Thu, 28 June 2018, 16:01:53 by portbaron »
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Offline Overchecken8

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Anyone know if these hotswap sockets would work with the TKC1800?

Link to the reddit thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8tuell/these_millmax_hotswap_sockets_are_so_good/?st=JIZE0DCZ&sh=d7f359f5

Offline TheKeyCompany

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Anyone know if these hotswap sockets would work with the TKC1800?

Link to the reddit thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/8tuell/these_millmax_hotswap_sockets_are_so_good/?st=JIZE0DCZ&sh=d7f359f5

Only one way to find out! I think those should work. My only concern is hold diameter but Iím fairly confident itíll be ok.

I know that the Kaihl hot swap sockets wont work because they will hit the ridges on the case. I wanted to offer them in R2 and was bummed to find out they wouldnít work.

Offline portbaron

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Where can you buy LEDs for the numlock/capslock/scrl lock indicators on the pcb? Is it default programmed to light up if soldered in? I've never put LEDs on a pcb before.
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Offline BlindAssassin111

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Where can you buy LEDs for the numlock/capslock/scrl lock indicators on the pcb? Is it default programmed to light up if soldered in? I've never put LEDs on a pcb before.

Yep you just buy LEDs and solder and you are done. You can put 3mm, 1.8mm or other LEDs and be good to go really quickly.

Offline Kavik

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Where can you buy LEDs for the numlock/capslock/scrl lock indicators on the pcb? Is it default programmed to light up if soldered in? I've never put LEDs on a pcb before.

Yep you just buy LEDs and solder and you are done. You can put 3mm, 1.8mm or other LEDs and be good to go really quickly.

I harvested some from a cheap numpad I never used. Just make sure, when you solder them in, that you put the right prongs in the - and + holes; otherwise they won't work! The longer prong is the positive one, I believe.

Offline Ar556

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Is the pcb restock the same pcb? or will it be round 2 with the corrected usb centering?

Offline TheKeyCompany

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Is the pcb restock the same pcb? or will it be round 2 with the corrected usb centering?

A few changes. But youíll still have to solder the connector for the TX1800 (Center) yourself. We will have the connectors in stock on the site soon.

Offline dimo

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Is there a picture around with DSA caps on this board?

Offline portbaron

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Is the pcb restock the same pcb? or will it be round 2 with the corrected usb centering?

A few changes. But youíll still have to solder the connector for the TX1800 (Center) yourself. We will have the connectors in stock on the site soon.
What is usb centering?
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Offline TheKeyCompany

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Is the pcb restock the same pcb? or will it be round 2 with the corrected usb centering?

A few changes. But youíll still have to solder the connector for the TX1800 (Center) yourself. We will have the connectors in stock on the site soon.
What is usb centering?

Thereís 3 possible usb locations on the PCB. Standard it comes in the offset rotated position for use in a G80-1800 / TKC-1800 case. It has optional locations for TX-1800 and others. Those optional locations is what he is referring to.

Offline Overchecken8

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Any update on when white case kits will be shipped?

Offline TheKeyCompany

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Any update on when white case kits will be shipped?

Iím picking them up tomorrow. If all is well, theyíll shipnout Saturday morning.

Offline dorf

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Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.
« Last Edit: Sat, 07 July 2018, 02:09:24 by dorf »

Offline Overchecken8

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Any update on when white case kits will be shipped?

Iím picking them up tomorrow. If all is well, theyíll shipnout Saturday morning.
:thumb:

Offline dorf

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Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.

Anyone? Terry?

Offline TerryMathews

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Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.

Anyone? Terry?

Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).

I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.

Offline dorf

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Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.

Anyone? Terry?

Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).

I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.


Please add a pic. I'll start on this during the week, possibly tomorrow, so if I'm 100% sure it makes it all easier. Thanks!

Offline dorf

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Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.

Anyone? Terry?

Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).

I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.


Please add a pic. I'll start on this during the week, possibly tomorrow, so if I'm 100% sure it makes it all easier. Thanks!

So I started today and this is how I did it. It definitely needs to be done before soldering switches. One of the pins are under the stab.

Bottom


Top


Cable, pcb


Cable, display


Testing


All didn't go fine though. Plate is cut to tight for one of the iso-switches... Don't mind the brown/black stems. They are being replaced.



Offline rioc

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Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.

Anyone? Terry?

Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).

I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.


Please add a pic. I'll start on this during the week, possibly tomorrow, so if I'm 100% sure it makes it all easier. Thanks!

So I started today and this is how I did it. It definitely needs to be done before soldering switches. One of the pins are under the stab.

Bottom
Show Image


Top
Show Image


Cable, pcb
Show Image


Cable, display
Show Image


Testing
Show Image


All didn't go fine though. Plate is cut to tight for one of the iso-switches... Don't mind the brown/black stems. They are being replaced.
Show Image


oh no, that's a bummer... had ISO planned for one of mine... I either have to dremel the plate, OR... or idk

is split left shift possible though with the plate? I could live with ANSI enter easily if I can have split left shift

Offline dorf

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  • divine creator
Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.

Anyone? Terry?

Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).

I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.


Please add a pic. I'll start on this during the week, possibly tomorrow, so if I'm 100% sure it makes it all easier. Thanks!

So I started today and this is how I did it. It definitely needs to be done before soldering switches. One of the pins are under the stab.

Bottom
Show Image


Top
Show Image


Cable, pcb
Show Image


Cable, display
Show Image


Testing
Show Image


All didn't go fine though. Plate is cut to tight for one of the iso-switches... Don't mind the brown/black stems. They are being replaced.
Show Image


oh no, that's a bummer... had ISO planned for one of mine... I either have to dremel the plate, OR... or idk

is split left shift possible though with the plate? I could live with ANSI enter easily if I can have split left shift

Split left shift was no problem.

Offline rioc

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Are there any guides or pictures on how to solder the connection on the pcb for the oled display? Orientation? Which side of the pcb? I'm guessing it's easier before soldering all the switches since I have a plate also.

Anyone? Terry?

Sorry, didn't see this until just now. The right angle connector is included because you can't route across the top of the board. I suggest installing the header so that it's on the bottom of the board, facing towards the bottom end (spacebar end).

I can snap a pic of mine if it helps. Please note you'll need to trim a section or the bottom casing support to accommodate the header and connector.


Please add a pic. I'll start on this during the week, possibly tomorrow, so if I'm 100% sure it makes it all easier. Thanks!

So I started today and this is how I did it. It definitely needs to be done before soldering switches. One of the pins are under the stab.

Bottom
Show Image


Top
Show Image


Cable, pcb
Show Image


Cable, display
Show Image


Testing
Show Image


All didn't go fine though. Plate is cut to tight for one of the iso-switches... Don't mind the brown/black stems. They are being replaced.
Show Image


oh no, that's a bummer... had ISO planned for one of mine... I either have to dremel the plate, OR... or idk

is split left shift possible though with the plate? I could live with ANSI enter easily if I can have split left shift

Split left shift was no problem.

ok, I can live with that... had ISO planned for the Cocaine White Case, so a crazy layout with ANSI / ISO mix will fit the cocaine crazyness
will have to edit my signature for that though ;)

Offline EternalD

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Any idea if led holtites will fit? Iím debating between soldering and using holtites as Iíve been told they are easier.

On another note, Iíve soldered every switch in (my first keeb pcb solder job). Unfortunately the fn key is the only one to not work. I used a volt-ohm meter to check if it was the switch but the switch was good. Maybe I fried the connection point?

Offline Kavik

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Any idea if led holtites will fit? Iím debating between soldering and using holtites as Iíve been told they are easier.

On another note, Iíve soldered every switch in (my first keeb pcb solder job). Unfortunately the fn key is the only one to not work. I used a volt-ohm meter to check if it was the switch but the switch was good. Maybe I fried the connection point?

When you say you tested the switch with a voltmeter, did you test it by itself or soldered in? Have you tested the pads without a switch soldered in with the voltmeter? If you don't get a reading from the bottom of the PCB, try the pads on the top. If you get a reading on the top but not the bottom, you probably overheated the pads and lifted them.

Or do you mean that Fn doesn't register on keyboardtester.com? I've never been able to get an Fn key to register before, so I have to test a key on layer 1 for example to know if it works. If that doesn't work, it could be that you mapped it wrong.

Sorry if you've already tried these. Just trying to understand exactly what you've tried, so that we can find a solution.

Offline EternalD

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Any idea if led holtites will fit? Iím debating between soldering and using holtites as Iíve been told they are easier.

On another note, Iíve soldered every switch in (my first keeb pcb solder job). Unfortunately the fn key is the only one to not work. I used a volt-ohm meter to check if it was the switch but the switch was good. Maybe I fried the connection point?

When you say you tested the switch with a voltmeter, did you test it by itself or soldered in? Have you tested the pads without a switch soldered in with the voltmeter? If you don't get a reading from the bottom of the PCB, try the pads on the top. If you get a reading on the top but not the bottom, you probably overheated the pads and lifted them.

Or do you mean that Fn doesn't register on keyboardtester.com? I've never been able to get an Fn key to register before, so I have to test a key on layer 1 for example to know if it works. If that doesn't work, it could be that you mapped it wrong.

Sorry if you've already tried these. Just trying to understand exactly what you've tried, so that we can find a solution.
Thanks for the reply.

I tested with the switch soldered in from the bottom of the pcb. I put the leads of the meter on the solder points. Pressing the switch produced a result on the meter identical to every other switch (0.02 ohms I think).

Now that you mention it though, I was simply using an online key tester. How else could I test the key in question?

Offline Kavik

  • Posts: 624
Any idea if led holtites will fit? Iím debating between soldering and using holtites as Iíve been told they are easier.

On another note, Iíve soldered every switch in (my first keeb pcb solder job). Unfortunately the fn key is the only one to not work. I used a volt-ohm meter to check if it was the switch but the switch was good. Maybe I fried the connection point?

When you say you tested the switch with a voltmeter, did you test it by itself or soldered in? Have you tested the pads without a switch soldered in with the voltmeter? If you don't get a reading from the bottom of the PCB, try the pads on the top. If you get a reading on the top but not the bottom, you probably overheated the pads and lifted them.

Or do you mean that Fn doesn't register on keyboardtester.com? I've never been able to get an Fn key to register before, so I have to test a key on layer 1 for example to know if it works. If that doesn't work, it could be that you mapped it wrong.

Sorry if you've already tried these. Just trying to understand exactly what you've tried, so that we can find a solution.
Thanks for the reply.

I tested with the switch soldered in from the bottom of the pcb. I put the leads of the meter on the solder points. Pressing the switch produced a result on the meter identical to every other switch (0.02 ohms I think).

Now that you mention it though, I was simply using an online key tester. How else could I test the key in question?

As far as I know, if a key is mapped to Fn, it will never show a keypress on something like keyboardtester.com because it's not sending a signal to the computer but rather to the controller telling it to use a different layer.

I test it by setting up a second layer and assigning one key to something very different from its first layer, say, mapping the J key to Backspace or something like that. Then, on keyboardtester.com, when you press Fn + J, you'll see Backspace register. Or, if you only want to verify that the key physically works, you could temporarily map it to something else like Menu, make sure it registers, and then map it back to Fn.

Offline Corgi Butts

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Is the LED function active as default?
« Last Edit: Wed, 11 July 2018, 10:53:03 by Bastimret »

Offline TerryMathews

  • Posts: 510
If you're using the stock firmware, Fn plus Backspace will reset to DFU. A handy way to test the Fn key...

Offline Corgi Butts

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Has anyone done any more testing on the PCB with various hot swap sockets, switch and/or LED? 

Offline portbaron

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So how do you get the pcb into bootloader/reset mode to flash it with a new hex? There's no Fn key default.
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Offline TheKeyCompany

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So how do you get the pcb into bootloader/reset mode to flash it with a new hex? There's no Fn key default.

ralt is Fn on the default keymap

Fn+BACKSPACE is bootloader

Offline MrSteve920

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What needs to be done to allow the backlight to be toggled on/off? Or is that not something that is possible? Currently mapping the backlight toggle to any key causes nothing to happen.

Offline Delirious

  • Posts: 302
What needs to be done to allow the backlight to be toggled on/off? Or is that not something that is possible? Currently mapping the backlight toggle to any key causes nothing to happen.

Not just backlighting, media keys(volume up, volume down, play next,....) are not working also, regardless of layers. It's pretty annoying and hopefully there will be a fix soon.

Offline TerryMathews

  • Posts: 510
What needs to be done to allow the backlight to be toggled on/off? Or is that not something that is possible? Currently mapping the backlight toggle to any key causes nothing to happen.

This was an error on my part: wasn't enabled in rules.mk when I merged the last PR. It's now fixed, as soon as the QMK team merges the commit LED code should be working correctly even using QMK Configurator.

Not just backlighting, media keys(volume up, volume down, play next,....) are not working also, regardless of layers. It's pretty annoying and hopefully there will be a fix soon.

Media keys are working correctly on my PC - Windows 7. Can you share your keymap file with me so I can test?

Offline Delirious

  • Posts: 302
What needs to be done to allow the backlight to be toggled on/off? Or is that not something that is possible? Currently mapping the backlight toggle to any key causes nothing to happen.

This was an error on my part: wasn't enabled in rules.mk when I merged the last PR. It's now fixed, as soon as the QMK team merges the commit LED code should be working correctly even using QMK Configurator.

Not just backlighting, media keys(volume up, volume down, play next,....) are not working also, regardless of layers. It's pretty annoying and hopefully there will be a fix soon.

Media keys are working correctly on my PC - Windows 7. Can you share your keymap file with me so I can test?

please see attached

Offline TerryMathews

  • Posts: 510
What needs to be done to allow the backlight to be toggled on/off? Or is that not something that is possible? Currently mapping the backlight toggle to any key causes nothing to happen.

This was an error on my part: wasn't enabled in rules.mk when I merged the last PR. It's now fixed, as soon as the QMK team merges the commit LED code should be working correctly even using QMK Configurator.

Not just backlighting, media keys(volume up, volume down, play next,....) are not working also, regardless of layers. It's pretty annoying and hopefully there will be a fix soon.

Media keys are working correctly on my PC - Windows 7. Can you share your keymap file with me so I can test?

please see attached

Try this. I uncommented the #define for KC_TRNS and defined it for the KC_TR you were using. Volume controls are now working correctly here. I suspect you were never compiling successfully.

Also want to point out that you unmapped both RESET and KC_PAUS, so you no longer have a soft reset to bootloader. I'd recommend putting one of them back on your function layer.

Both shifts plus pause or RESET will take you to bootloader.
« Last Edit: Sun, 15 July 2018, 15:01:02 by TerryMathews »

Offline MrSteve920

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What needs to be done to allow the backlight to be toggled on/off? Or is that not something that is possible? Currently mapping the backlight toggle to any key causes nothing to happen.

This was an error on my part: wasn't enabled in rules.mk when I merged the last PR. It's now fixed, as soon as the QMK team merges the commit LED code should be working correctly even using QMK Configurator.

Not just backlighting, media keys(volume up, volume down, play next,....) are not working also, regardless of layers. It's pretty annoying and hopefully there will be a fix soon.

Media keys are working correctly on my PC - Windows 7. Can you share your keymap file with me so I can test?

Haha, I love your comment on the commit. My eyes totally glazed over that when I was trying to troubleshoot it the other day.

Offline Overchecken8

  • Posts: 123
Just built mine and Iím having an odd issue. The entire caps lock/enter row doesnít appear to be working. I thought it might be a problem with the firmware so I tried to just flash the default layout, but Iím QMK firmware builder every time I plug it in, the output screen flies by with a few different errors repeating over and over again (Iíll have to try again in the morning to get the exact errors). Anyone know what it could be? I thought it might be that my screw in gmk stabs might be shorting something?

Offline TheKeyCompany

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Just built mine and Iím having an odd issue. The entire caps lock/enter row doesnít appear to be working. I thought it might be a problem with the firmware so I tried to just flash the default layout, but Iím QMK firmware builder every time I plug it in, the output screen flies by with a few different errors repeating over and over again (Iíll have to try again in the morning to get the exact errors). Anyone know what it could be? I thought it might be that my screw in gmk stabs might be shorting something?

You probably overtightentes your stabs. Try backing the screws off a little or install washers on them.