Author Topic: [GB COMPLETE] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, More available soon  (Read 24954 times)

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Re: [GB] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, TAKING ORDERS
« Reply #50 on: Fri, 25 May 2018, 08:22:50 »
I've got nothing at all,  although I've joined wait list and provided my email.

I guess, google mail spam control worked a bit rough this time.

Also, where can we check that grey?
« Last Edit: Fri, 25 May 2018, 08:28:06 by FearsomeCubedWarrior »

Offline rioc

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Re: [GB] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, TAKING ORDERS
« Reply #51 on: Fri, 25 May 2018, 08:25:39 »
Email I got yesterday stated the following:


Good news! The PCBs and Plates have shipped from the factories! The parts should be in my possession by Friday. I plan to test a random bunch of PCBs and start fulfillment after the Memorial Day holiday weekend pending no issues. This buy will take a little longer to fulfill than a keyset buy, so expect orders to start going out the door all of next week. Orders will be shipped in the order they were placed.

New colors coming next week, and some restocks.
Audi Nardo Grey
Cocaine White
Tanzanite Blue


ah, nice :)


Offline kookoopuffs

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Re: [GB] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, TAKING ORDERS
« Reply #52 on: Fri, 25 May 2018, 09:41:44 »
I've got nothing at all,  although I've joined wait list and provided my email.

I guess, google mail spam control worked a bit rough this time.

Also, where can we check that grey?

I've messaged him on reddit and he hasn't responded. I'm also signed up for the wait list and the subscription notices but I haven't received anything. All i want to know is how do i sign up for the grey?!?!

Offline Jkush463

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Re: [GB] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, TAKING ORDERS
« Reply #53 on: Fri, 25 May 2018, 10:01:35 »
Is there any way i can get a green kit or did i miss that boat? 😅

Offline TerryMathews

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Re: [GB] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, TAKING ORDERS
« Reply #54 on: Fri, 25 May 2018, 16:35:32 »
Not to steal TKC's thunder, but one has been successfully built and tested. So far, so good.

Offline Origami_Rabbit

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Re: [GB] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, TAKING ORDERS
« Reply #55 on: Sat, 26 May 2018, 21:23:14 »
Could you kindly show us a picture of which part of top case needs to be modified or cut?
HHKB Pro JP Type-S with hasu alt controller
Leopold FC980c

Offline BlindAssassin111

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Re: [GB] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, TAKING ORDERS
« Reply #56 on: Sat, 26 May 2018, 22:13:30 »
Could you kindly show us a picture of which part of top case needs to be modified or cut?

I don't have a picture of modified case atm, but if you look at the plate below, any location with small bridges of material is where you cut, and you need to go ~5mm deep with the cuts to allow the plate to sit properly and not interfere with the case. I would recommend going slow with the cuts to make sure you have it sitting in the case correctly before committing to the full mod.

Offline Origami_Rabbit

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Re: [GB] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, TAKING ORDERS
« Reply #57 on: Sat, 26 May 2018, 22:29:05 »
Thank you for the info, very useful. Please share a real pic of your modified case in the future if that happens.
Cheers!
HHKB Pro JP Type-S with hasu alt controller
Leopold FC980c

Offline Delirious

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Re: [GB] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, TAKING ORDERS
« Reply #58 on: Sun, 27 May 2018, 16:07:51 »
Thank you for the info, very useful. Please share a real pic of your modified case in the future if that happens.
Cheers!

https://imgur.com/a/gwMJg

Offline Origami_Rabbit

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Re: [GB] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, TAKING ORDERS
« Reply #59 on: Mon, 28 May 2018, 05:23:17 »
 :thumb: very intuitive!
HHKB Pro JP Type-S with hasu alt controller
Leopold FC980c

Offline Radlife

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Re: [GB] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, TAKING ORDERS
« Reply #60 on: Tue, 29 May 2018, 19:29:49 »
I'm not sure why TKC isn't responding but I just got a shipping notice saying that my kit was on it's way.

Offline soupymeatballs

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Re: [GB] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, TAKING ORDERS
« Reply #61 on: Tue, 29 May 2018, 21:31:23 »
Well that's good news. I haven't gotten mine yet but I hope it comes soon.

Offline TheKeyCompany

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Re: [GB] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, TAKING ORDERS
« Reply #62 on: Wed, 30 May 2018, 08:28:30 »
Is there any way i can get a green kit or did i miss that boat? 😅

I havent been getting notifications on Geekhack! Sorry for the lack of communication! 

I have a few green B stock left in stock. I wont be running matte green again, so if you want one, grab one while they last! 

https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc-1800-v1-0-kit-b-stock

Offline kookoopuffs

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Re: [GB] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, TAKING ORDERS
« Reply #63 on: Wed, 30 May 2018, 08:30:31 »
Is there any way i can get a green kit or did i miss that boat?

I havent been getting notifications on Geekhack! Sorry for the lack of communication! 

I have a few green B stock left in stock. I wont be running matte green again, so if you want one, grab one while they last! 

https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc-1800-v1-0-kit-b-stock

Any updates on nardo grey?


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Offline TheKeyCompany

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Re: [GB] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, TAKING ORDERS
« Reply #64 on: Wed, 30 May 2018, 08:37:15 »
Is there any way i can get a green kit or did i miss that boat?

I havent been getting notifications on Geekhack! Sorry for the lack of communication! 

I have a few green B stock left in stock. I wont be running matte green again, so if you want one, grab one while they last! 

https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc-1800-v1-0-kit-b-stock

Any updates on nardo grey?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ive got them in house. I will open orders again next week once everything is shipped out. I want to focus my efforts on fullfillment as its a bit more time consuming than I had anticipated.

Nardo Grey looks pretty dope though!

Offline Kavik

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Re: [GB] TKC1800 Full kit, G80-1800 compatible QMK PCB, TAKING ORDERS
« Reply #65 on: Wed, 30 May 2018, 11:03:38 »
Is there any way i can get a green kit or did i miss that boat?

I havent been getting notifications on Geekhack! Sorry for the lack of communication! 

I have a few green B stock left in stock. I wont be running matte green again, so if you want one, grab one while they last! 

https://thekey.company/collections/tkc-1800/products/tkc-1800-v1-0-kit-b-stock

Any updates on nardo grey?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ive got them in house. I will open orders again next week once everything is shipped out. I want to focus my efforts on fullfillment as its a bit more time consuming than I had anticipated.

Nardo Grey looks pretty dope though!

That gray reminds me of the gray interior of my family's old white '88 Chevy Caprice. Same shine and everything.


Offline TheKeyCompany

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GB is 40% fulfilled! Read the main page for other updates.

Nardo Grey is in stock! I have 7 available. Im going to do this raffle style.

Please fill out this form if you are interested.

Form closes on Monday, invoices will be sent at random. You will have 24 hours to check out or your order will be cancelled! I am offering Nardo Grey at GB pricing. The kits will ship before June 8.

Offline kookoopuffs

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Show Image
(Attachment Link) " alt="" class="bbc_img" />


GB is 40% fulfilled! Read the main page for other updates.

Nardo Grey is in stock! I have 7 available. Im going to do this raffle style.

Please fill out this form if you are interested.

Form closes on Monday, invoices will be sent at random. You will have 24 hours to check out or your order will be cancelled! I am offering Nardo Grey at GB pricing. The kits will ship before June 8.

Why does it ask “what color plate” on the form and the choices are prefixed with mx or alps? If I choose mx Black, does that mean that the plate is black and it only fits with mx blacks? Or is the color plate black and I can fit it with any mx switch?

Sorry for the newb question


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Offline TheKeyCompany

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Show Image
(Attachment Link) " alt="" class="bbc_img" />


GB is 40% fulfilled! Read the main page for other updates.

Nardo Grey is in stock! I have 7 available. Im going to do this raffle style.

Please fill out this form if you are interested.

Form closes on Monday, invoices will be sent at random. You will have 24 hours to check out or your order will be cancelled! I am offering Nardo Grey at GB pricing. The kits will ship before June 8.

Why does it ask “what color plate” on the form and the choices are prefixed with mx or alps? If I choose mx Black, does that mean that the plate is black and it only fits with mx blacks? Or is the color plate black and I can fit it with any mx switch?

Sorry for the newb question


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If the prefix is MX it will fit any MX style switch. "Black" in this case refers to the color of the plate. The alps prefix would be if you wanted to do an Alps plate build rather than Cherry.

Offline kookoopuffs

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(Attachment Link) " alt="" class="bbc_img" />


GB is 40% fulfilled! Read the main page for other updates.

Nardo Grey is in stock! I have 7 available. Im going to do this raffle style.

Please fill out this form if you are interested.

Form closes on Monday, invoices will be sent at random. You will have 24 hours to check out or your order will be cancelled! I am offering Nardo Grey at GB pricing. The kits will ship before June 8.

Why does it ask “what color plate” on the form and the choices are prefixed with mx or alps? If I choose mx Black, does that mean that the plate is black and it only fits with mx blacks? Or is the color plate black and I can fit it with any mx switch?

Sorry for the newb question


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If the prefix is MX it will fit any MX style switch. "Black" in this case refers to the color of the plate. The alps prefix would be if you wanted to do an Alps plate build rather than Cherry.

Gotcha, thanks!


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Offline Firebolt1914

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Hi, today I received my TKC1800 PCB, however I had a couple questions.

1, in the pictures on the website, it appears the pcbs have both USB connectors soldered, however on my PCB, only the 90 degree connector is there. Is this intentional, and would I have to source a connector?

2, I compared the TKC1800 PCB with a broken MX1800 pcb. Not sure if this will be an issue and if this is what it meant by 'the pcbs are not centered', but the vertical USB connector is slightly off centered on the TKC1800 PCB. Would this potentially cause issues, or as stated on the website, would it be a non-issue?



Offline TheKeyCompany

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Hi, today I received my TKC1800 PCB, however I had a couple questions.

1, in the pictures on the website, it appears the pcbs have both USB connectors soldered, however on my PCB, only the 90 degree connector is there. Is this intentional, and would I have to source a connector?

2, I compared the TKC1800 PCB with a broken MX1800 pcb. Not sure if this will be an issue and if this is what it meant by 'the pcbs are not centered', but the vertical USB connector is slightly off centered on the TKC1800 PCB. Would this potentially cause issues, or as stated on the website, would it be a non-issue?

1. You would need to source a connector to use it in a TX1800, or desolder the one present and switch locations. The 90 Degree connector is there for use with TKC1800 and G8X-1800 variants. I will have some of the connectors for sale soon.
2. I never got my Tx1800 so I was unable to test the prototype in the case. The USB location we set up for the TX1800 is slightly off to one side when you mount it in the case. You can use it, its just a tight fit. We are correcting that on Rev2.

Hope this helps.

Offline kookoopuffs

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(Attachment Link) " alt="" class="bbc_img" />


GB is 40% fulfilled! Read the main page for other updates.

Nardo Grey is in stock! I have 7 available. Im going to do this raffle style.

Please fill out this form if you are interested.

Form closes on Monday, invoices will be sent at random. You will have 24 hours to check out or your order will be cancelled! I am offering Nardo Grey at GB pricing. The kits will ship before June 8.

I haven’t got an email for the nardo grey. Have you already sent out the invoices?


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Offline Firebolt1914

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Hi, today I received my TKC1800 PCB, however I had a couple questions.

1, in the pictures on the website, it appears the pcbs have both USB connectors soldered, however on my PCB, only the 90 degree connector is there. Is this intentional, and would I have to source a connector?

2, I compared the TKC1800 PCB with a broken MX1800 pcb. Not sure if this will be an issue and if this is what it meant by 'the pcbs are not centered', but the vertical USB connector is slightly off centered on the TKC1800 PCB. Would this potentially cause issues, or as stated on the website, would it be a non-issue?

1. You would need to source a connector to use it in a TX1800, or desolder the one present and switch locations. The 90 Degree connector is there for use with TKC1800 and G8X-1800 variants. I will have some of the connectors for sale soon.
2. I never got my Tx1800 so I was unable to test the prototype in the case. The USB location we set up for the TX1800 is slightly off to one side when you mount it in the case. You can use it, its just a tight fit. We are correcting that on Rev2.

Hope this helps.

Alright, thank you. Will try desoldering the connector.

Offline Firebolt1914

  • POM Overlord
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Hi, today I received my TKC1800 PCB, however I had a couple questions.

1, in the pictures on the website, it appears the pcbs have both USB connectors soldered, however on my PCB, only the 90 degree connector is there. Is this intentional, and would I have to source a connector?

2, I compared the TKC1800 PCB with a broken MX1800 pcb. Not sure if this will be an issue and if this is what it meant by 'the pcbs are not centered', but the vertical USB connector is slightly off centered on the TKC1800 PCB. Would this potentially cause issues, or as stated on the website, would it be a non-issue?

1. You would need to source a connector to use it in a TX1800, or desolder the one present and switch locations. The 90 Degree connector is there for use with TKC1800 and G8X-1800 variants. I will have some of the connectors for sale soon.
2. I never got my Tx1800 so I was unable to test the prototype in the case. The USB location we set up for the TX1800 is slightly off to one side when you mount it in the case. You can use it, its just a tight fit. We are correcting that on Rev2.

Hope this helps.

I wasn't able to desolder the connector. Would you happen to have a part number for the connector? Rather not order one and find out the sizing is slightly off.

Offline TheKeyCompany

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I wasn't able to desolder the connector. Would you happen to have a part number for the connector? Rather not order one and find out the sizing is slightly off.
[/quote]

Drop me an email to orders@thekey.company with your order number. Ill get you sorted.

Offline Kavik

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Is it expected to have to modify the case a bit in order to attach the USB cable? I tried three different USB cables, but the housing around the B-end on all of them interferes with one of the hole wells (?) on the bottom case through which the top case's clips fit. I tried to force it a bit, but that caused one of the little tabs at the bottom of the case that centers the PCB to snap off. I don't want to dremel away at the hole well since it seems thin enough that it might just put a big gap in the case.

Also, was the kit supposed to include screws? If so, what kind of screws secure the top and bottom case together?

Offline Kavik

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Is it expected to have to modify the case a bit in order to attach the USB cable? I tried three different USB cables, but the housing around the B-end on all of them interferes with one of the hole wells (?) on the bottom case through which the top case's clips fit. I tried to force it a bit, but that caused one of the little tabs at the bottom of the case that centers the PCB to snap off. I don't want to dremel away at the hole well since it seems thin enough that it might just put a big gap in the case.

Also, was the kit supposed to include screws? If so, what kind of screws secure the top and bottom case together?

I did the more reasonable thing and dremeled the USB cable's B-end instead since it's the cheaper part. It was still a tight fit after that.

But after I got it put together, I noticed the backslash/pipe key switch was crooked since it's the only one that the plate doesn't really secure. I apparently ruined the pad desoldering it, and now the key doesn't work at all after soldering it in correctly oriented.  :'(

Offline pixelpusher

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Is it expected to have to modify the case a bit in order to attach the USB cable? I tried three different USB cables, but the housing around the B-end on all of them interferes with one of the hole wells (?) on the bottom case through which the top case's clips fit. I tried to force it a bit, but that caused one of the little tabs at the bottom of the case that centers the PCB to snap off. I don't want to dremel away at the hole well since it seems thin enough that it might just put a big gap in the case.

Also, was the kit supposed to include screws? If so, what kind of screws secure the top and bottom case together?

I did the more reasonable thing and dremeled the USB cable's B-end instead since it's the cheaper part. It was still a tight fit after that.

But after I got it put together, I noticed the backslash/pipe key switch was crooked since it's the only one that the plate doesn't really secure. I apparently ruined the pad desoldering it, and now the key doesn't work at all after soldering it in correctly oriented.  :'(

Sorry to hear you had a bad experience.  I know the feeling all too well from lots of underwhelming keyboards and failures of my own in the past.

Whenever I have a crooked key like that I usually just get the solder hot (on the lower pin, the stiffer/thicker one) and twist it with firmly with a keycap on. But not to worry, it should be an easy fix to hotwire/flywire that backslash. Mine is still on the way, and I find it strange that the usb doesn't fit right. 
:)

Offline TheKeyCompany

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Is it expected to have to modify the case a bit in order to attach the USB cable? I tried three different USB cables, but the housing around the B-end on all of them interferes with one of the hole wells (?) on the bottom case through which the top case's clips fit. I tried to force it a bit, but that caused one of the little tabs at the bottom of the case that centers the PCB to snap off. I don't want to dremel away at the hole well since it seems thin enough that it might just put a big gap in the case.

Also, was the kit supposed to include screws? If so, what kind of screws secure the top and bottom case together?

I did the more reasonable thing and dremeled the USB cable's B-end instead since it's the cheaper part. It was still a tight fit after that.

But after I got it put together, I noticed the backslash/pipe key switch was crooked since it's the only one that the plate doesn't really secure. I apparently ruined the pad desoldering it, and now the key doesn't work at all after soldering it in correctly oriented.  :'(

Is it expected to have to modify the case a bit in order to attach the USB cable? I tried three different USB cables, but the housing around the B-end on all of them interferes with one of the hole wells (?) on the bottom case through which the top case's clips fit. I tried to force it a bit, but that caused one of the little tabs at the bottom of the case that centers the PCB to snap off. I don't want to dremel away at the hole well since it seems thin enough that it might just put a big gap in the case.

Also, was the kit supposed to include screws? If so, what kind of screws secure the top and bottom case together?

I did the more reasonable thing and dremeled the USB cable's B-end instead since it's the cheaper part. It was still a tight fit after that.

But after I got it put together, I noticed the backslash/pipe key switch was crooked since it's the only one that the plate doesn't really secure. I apparently ruined the pad desoldering it, and now the key doesn't work at all after soldering it in correctly oriented.  :'(

Sorry to hear you had a bad experience.  I know the feeling all too well from lots of underwhelming keyboards and failures of my own in the past.

Whenever I have a crooked key like that I usually just get the solder hot (on the lower pin, the stiffer/thicker one) and twist it with firmly with a keycap on. But not to worry, it should be an easy fix to hotwire/flywire that backslash. Mine is still on the way, and I find it strange that the usb doesn't fit right.

The USB connector is rotated 90 degrees so that the cable can be routed through the stock hole in the case. Like this. It doesnt work very well with bulky cable ends. Best fit is from a shrinkwrapped cable.

My recommendation is to either use a shrink-wrapped cable, hardwire the cable, or modify your cable end so that it fits properly. Forcing it in is a bad way to go; its plastic, something WILL break.

Screws can be used but are not required, therefore not included. They add no stability or rigidity to the case therefore I did not include them. Ill run them up to the hardware store soon and get a size off them and post on the product page for those who wish to use one.

Lastly, I will be doing a build log soon with lots of pics and good instructions. This fulfillment is taking much longer than expected, otherwise it would be up by now. If you are unsure about how something goes together or have issues, comment here and Ill do my best to help out as I fulfill (maybe someone else can chime in), or wait for the build log.

Offline Overchecken8

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What's the best way to get in contact with you guys? I was waiting for a reply through email and decided to try you through Reddit but still haven't been able to get a reply through either. Just curious what's the most convenient way to get in contact about my TKC1800 order.

Offline TheKeyCompany

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What's the best way to get in contact with you guys? I was waiting for a reply through email and decided to try you through Reddit but still haven't been able to get a reply through either. Just curious what's the most convenient way to get in contact about my TKC1800 order.

Did you try this?

https://thekey.company/pages/contact-tkc

Or you can always drop a line to orders@thekey.company

Offline pixelpusher

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No shortage of custom sleeved cables here, so I should be fine.  Except... I just realized I need a red one for this build!  Huzzah!  New excuse for buying a custom cable!
:)

Offline Overchecken8

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What's the best way to get in contact with you guys? I was waiting for a reply through email and decided to try you through Reddit but still haven't been able to get a reply through either. Just curious what's the most convenient way to get in contact about my TKC1800 order.

Did you try this?

https://thekey.company/pages/contact-tkc

Or you can always drop a line to orders@thekey.company

Yeah I originally used the first link and got a reply back pretty quickly. I haven't received a reply after the first one though. I'll go ahead and send over another through that first link though, thanks!

Offline loud_asian

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Did anyone score a nardo grey case?

No invoice for me :(

Offline Overchecken8

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What's the best way to get in contact with you guys? I was waiting for a reply through email and decided to try you through Reddit but still haven't been able to get a reply through either. Just curious what's the most convenient way to get in contact about my TKC1800 order.

Did you try this?

https://thekey.company/pages/contact-tkc

Or you can always drop a line to orders@thekey.company

Yeah I originally used the first link and got a reply back pretty quickly. I haven't received a reply after the first one though. I'll go ahead and send over another through that first link though, thanks!
Sorry about the confusion! Was just me being crazy/impatient and dying to get my board. Got a reply and mine should be shipping out sometime this weekend!

Offline EternalD

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May seem a silly question, but can anyone explain to me how to open the case? No experience with the cherry cases and i don't want to pry the thing apart and snap it.

Offline BlindAssassin111

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May seem a silly question, but can anyone explain to me how to open the case? No experience with the cherry cases and i don't want to pry the thing apart and snap it.

You have to use something to pry the tabs from the back, use something plastic like a car trim removal tool if you really want to be safe. That is the only way I know how.

Offline TerryMathews

  • Posts: 507
May seem a silly question, but can anyone explain to me how to open the case? No experience with the cherry cases and i don't want to pry the thing apart and snap it.

Four plastic clips on the bottom of the case. Push them towards the cable-hole edge.

Offline EternalD

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May seem a silly question, but can anyone explain to me how to open the case? No experience with the cherry cases and i don't want to pry the thing apart and snap it.

Four plastic clips on the bottom of the case. Push them towards the cable-hole edge.

May seem a silly question, but can anyone explain to me how to open the case? No experience with the cherry cases and i don't want to pry the thing apart and snap it.

You have to use something to pry the tabs from the back, use something plastic like a car trim removal tool if you really want to be safe. That is the only way I know how.

May seem a silly question, but can anyone explain to me how to open the case? No experience with the cherry cases and i don't want to pry the thing apart and snap it.

Four plastic clips on the bottom of the case. Push them towards the cable-hole edge.

Thank you both, will report back with the results!

Offline rioc

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is it documented somewhere which modifications I'd have to do to a G80-1800 case to fit in the PCB+Plate from you guys?


ordered an extra Plate and PCB for mine

Offline pixelpusher

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  • Posts: 2463
  • Location: Tennessee - USA
I got mine today.  I had to spend two hours figuring out and fixing why it wouldn't go together.  I'm glad that I paid to have it pre cut for the plate (becasue I wouldn't have known where to start cutting), but the cuts weren't 100% right.  Mostly it was the cuts around the arrow cluster and right below the NCS indicator that weren't deep enough.  After a lot of careful scraping (I have a dremel, but I would suggest using a box knife for more control) I was able to get it to fit correctly.

Also, my PCB does rattle a bit in the top right, so I think I would like to try adding the two case screws whenever they become available.  I'm not sure if they will go in though. It looks like screw holes on the PCB are designed about 1mm off.

If screws don't work I'm sure I could put some wedging material in there to keep the PCB pressed firmly.

Speaking of material to put in the case...  I would say this sucker really needs some shelf liner or foam.  Let me clarify that I am a HUGE fan of plastic cases and the way they sound.  This one... er... it sounds not so good. Its clacky, but in a bad/cheap way.  I think an insert would probably make it sound much nicer though.  I'll have to report back on that one.

I'll probably write up a full review once I get it fully build and trimmed out.

:)

I got mine today.  I had to spend two hours figuring out and fixing why it wouldn't go together.  I'm glad that I paid to have it pre cut for the plate (becasue I wouldn't have known where to start cutting), but the cuts weren't 100% right.  Mostly it was the cuts around the arrow cluster and right below the NCS indicator that weren't deep enough.  After a lot of careful scraping (I have a dremel, but I would suggest using a box knife for more control) I was able to get it to fit correctly.

Also, my PCB does rattle a bit in the top right, so I think I would like to try adding the two case screws whenever they become available.  I'm not sure if they will go in though. It looks like screw holes on the PCB are designed about 1mm off.

If screws don't work I'm sure I could put some wedging material in there to keep the PCB pressed firmly.

Speaking of material to put in the case...  I would say this sucker really needs some shelf liner or foam.  Let me clarify that I am a HUGE fan of plastic cases and the way they sound.  This one... er... it sounds not so good. Its clacky, but in a bad/cheap way.  I think an insert would probably make it sound much nicer though.  I'll have to report back on that one.

I'll probably write up a full review once I get it fully build and trimmed out.
Thanks for the update. I’d love to read a full review once you get everything sorted out.

Offline baphotmet

  • Posts: 25
I got mine today.  I had to spend two hours figuring out and fixing why it wouldn't go together.  I'm glad that I paid to have it pre cut for the plate (becasue I wouldn't have known where to start cutting), but the cuts weren't 100% right.  Mostly it was the cuts around the arrow cluster and right below the NCS indicator that weren't deep enough.  After a lot of careful scraping (I have a dremel, but I would suggest using a box knife for more control) I was able to get it to fit correctly.

Also, my PCB does rattle a bit in the top right, so I think I would like to try adding the two case screws whenever they become available.  I'm not sure if they will go in though. It looks like screw holes on the PCB are designed about 1mm off.

If screws don't work I'm sure I could put some wedging material in there to keep the PCB pressed firmly.

Speaking of material to put in the case...  I would say this sucker really needs some shelf liner or foam.  Let me clarify that I am a HUGE fan of plastic cases and the way they sound.  This one... er... it sounds not so good. Its clacky, but in a bad/cheap way.  I think an insert would probably make it sound much nicer though.  I'll have to report back on that one.

I'll probably write up a full review once I get it fully build and trimmed out.

Looking forward to your full review.

btw, what kind of mini-usb would you use? separated or extend from PCB?

Offline Kavik

  • Posts: 550
I finally got all the kinks worked out and put this thing together. I was surprised how well it goes with SA 1965. I had actually been planning to sell that set since it didn't go with any of my keyboards. Now I'm keeping it  ;D

But now I need to find a 1.75u right SHIFT key. I had to borrow CAPS LOCK from SA Carbon, which isn't even the right row profile, not to mention color.


Offline pixelpusher

  • Formerly known as reececonrad
  • Posts: 2463
  • Location: Tennessee - USA
I finally got all the kinks worked out and put this thing together. I was surprised how well it goes with SA 1965. I had actually been planning to sell that set since it didn't go with any of my keyboards. Now I'm keeping it  ;D

But now I need to find a 1.75u right SHIFT key. I had to borrow CAPS LOCK from SA Carbon, which isn't even the right row profile, not to mention color.

Show Image


That looks really cool. What switches did you use?  Also, did you put any sound dampener in the case?
:)

Offline eyedrop

  • Posts: 342
That does look good with SA 1965. What switches are you planning to use yourself, pixelpusher?

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Offline Origami_Rabbit

  • Posts: 17
  • Location: Straya
Planning to put Box navy on this PCB and to add some butyl rubber foam in a g80-1800 case. I heard dynamat is very nice but quite pricey.
HHKB Pro JP Type-S with hasu alt controller
Leopold FC980c

Offline Kavik

  • Posts: 550
I finally got all the kinks worked out and put this thing together. I was surprised how well it goes with SA 1965. I had actually been planning to sell that set since it didn't go with any of my keyboards. Now I'm keeping it  ;D

But now I need to find a 1.75u right SHIFT key. I had to borrow CAPS LOCK from SA Carbon, which isn't even the right row profile, not to mention color.

Show Image


That looks really cool. What switches did you use?  Also, did you put any sound dampener in the case?

I went with BOX Royals. I liked BOX Navies so much I figured I had to try them. I have to say that they feel pretty good in this case. I think the plastic case actually adds a bit to the feel of them, but I don't have a aluminum KB with them to test side by side. I posted more of my thoughts on them here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=96081.0).