Simple Questions, Simple Answers (FAQ in the OP)

[Eszett]

Can you tell me how Tribosys 3203 and 3204 compares to Krytox 205g0 in terms of thickness? ( I'm looking for an all-purpose lube for tacticles and stabs, but rather on the thin side, to avoid any slightest bit of sluggishness. )

[suicidal_orange]

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/epomaker/epomaker-gk96s-96-wireless-mechanical-keyboard?ref=950ief

Is this keyboard buyable? Availability seems not clear on the site

The kickstarter ended last year but there's a bright green "order now" button at the top that takes you to a website with a buy button - unless I'm missing something?

[Neig]

Hi, Im new to geekhack and looking to build my first keyboard. I've been looking around and I'm pretty sure I know what I'm gonna buy.

Yet, I have one question where I've found nothing about. Some sources say I can't use a Cherry switch opener to open Kailh NK Cream switches and other sources say I can.

Can anyone confirm if I can open a Kailh switch with a cherry switch opener, and if not tell me what to look for?

thanks in advance 

[TheWonderBubble]

Hi, Im new to geekhack and looking to build my first keyboard. I've been looking around and I'm pretty sure I know what I'm gonna buy.

Yet, I have one question where I've found nothing about. Some sources say I can't use a Cherry switch opener to open Kailh NK Cream switches and other sources say I can.

Can anyone confirm if I can open a Kailh switch with a cherry switch opener, and if not tell me what to look for?

thanks in advance 

The NovelKeys cream switches look like a cherry housing (narrow dual clips) so you should be able to use that just fine. Kailh switches themselves use a different housing design (single wide clip).

A lot of switch openers have both prongs though, I picked up this one: https://dinokeys.co/products/switch-opener and it's opened up my polia and boba switches so far (I got mine from thockeys, but they don't seem to carry it now). There's a lot of different variants out there to choose from. Glorious, ThocKeys, The Key Company, basically everyone has their own offerings that have both the single thick prong and the two smaller prongs for Kailh/Cherry switches, respectively.

[mrvco]

Is there a reliable way to create a plate file by scanning an existing plate?

[iamtootallforthis]

Is there a reliable way to create a plate file by scanning an existing plate?

Yup, there is but I don't think it'd be worth the cost unless you know someone with access to a good high res optical scanner and someone familiar enough to take that data and turn it into a CAD file

[k4jtek]

Is there a reliable way to create a plate file by scanning an existing plate?

But... What for? Can't you just copy the layout to KLE looking on a plate and generate file in swillkb builder? It seems to be much easier.

Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Taptalak

[sprax]

hey guys im new here, and i was thinking in making a thread but i think my question(s) are not worthy.

So i have a cm masterkeyspro M, and am considering building my first ever custom keyboard, my idea is to build something cheap but with some quality, so my line of thought is:

- Board: Womier/gamakay k87
- keycaps: gmk mizu clones
- switches: akko ocean

my questions here are:
- what other sugestion you have for board, that are worth looking into? (it can be iso or ansi idm either)
- regarding switches, firstly i was thinkin in getting boba u4t, but they are kinda expensive, is it worth the difference? is there any other tactile non mx good option? i wanted somthing heavier than mx browns

thanks in advance for your time

[Leopard223]

What are the best keyboard stabs? Having hard time lately with stabilizers and it’s driving me crazy.
Have used Everglide Pandas which are quite good. 
Everglide V1 are not that good, they’re ticking.
KBDFans PC ones are nice but aren’t perfect. 

Should I get Durock/Everglide V2? afaik they’re the same as V1 just with different housing to prevent wire popping but that’s not a concern to me. 

Wires are balanced, stabs lubed properly, using a switch with minimal wobble.

[_rubik]

hey guys im new here, and i was thinking in making a thread but i think my question(s) are not worthy.

So i have a cm masterkeyspro M, and am considering building my first ever custom keyboard, my idea is to build something cheap but with some quality, so my line of thought is:

- Board: Womier/gamakay k87
- keycaps: gmk mizu clones
- switches: akko ocean

my questions here are:
- what other sugestion you have for board, that are worth looking into? (it can be iso or ansi idm either)
- regarding switches, firstly i was thinkin in getting boba u4t, but they are kinda expensive, is it worth the difference? is there any other tactile non mx good option? i wanted somthing heavier than mx browns

thanks in advance for your time

I'm not exactly familiar with either the Womier or gamakay, which might hint at their quality. That said, I could just be out of the loop.

Generally, my advice when it comes to boards is that you should put money towards the base and build from there. If you buy cheap, you're going to buy twice. Look at a Ducky, Glorious, or KBDFan boards (those tend to be pretty popular) and save purchases like additional key sets and improved switches for later.

As for switches, I'd recommend getting a small number of the U4Ts (switches are usually sold in packs of 10) and testing them for yourself. Maybe even try lubing a few to test the difference. Switches are highly subjective, and your mileage may vary. Personally, it's 100% worth the price, but you may find the Bobas are too tactile or not tactile enough, or too heavy etc.

[_rubik]

Can you tell me how Tribosys 3203 and 3204 compares to Krytox 205g0 in terms of thickness? ( I'm looking for an all-purpose lube for tacticles and stabs, but rather on the thin side, to avoid any slightest bit of sluggishness. )

Kinetic Labs (https://kineticlabs.store/lube) has a good explanation on the qualities of each. I've used 3203 on my tactile switches in the past. I regret not getting 206g0 for my stabs though; 3203/4 can be a bit thin for that application.

[Eszett]

Question, with Kailh hot swap sockets installed, the space between PCB and plate (3.5mm) is not changed by this right? And a plate of 1.6mm (instead of 1.5mm), reduces the inbetween space to 3.4mm, is that correct?

[totaltotal]

I have a Leopold FC750R with Cherry Clears. The springs are a little too tough for me, and I'd like to swap them out for springs that are easier to actuate. From what I've read, it's not possible to simply pop the top off the switches on this Leopold due to the plate not having some extra space. Is that true? Is my only option for new springs desoldering?

[suicidal_orange]

Question, with Kailh hot swap sockets installed, the space between PCB and plate (3.5mm) is not changed by this right? And a plate of 1.6mm (instead of 1.5mm), reduces the inbetween space to 3.4mm, is that correct?

Yes - the switch rests on the PCB to make it stable and the lip rests on top of the plate, the distance between the two will not change.  More plate = less gap but make sure they still clip in as without solder they will be easier to knock out.

I have a Leopold FC750R with Cherry Clears. The springs are a little too tough for me, and I'd like to swap them out for springs that are easier to actuate. From what I've read, it's not possible to simply pop the top off the switches on this Leopold due to the plate not having some extra space. Is that true? Is my only option for new springs desoldering?

Sadly this is true, only on some DIY plates where you can see gaps down the side of the switches can you pull the tops off while they're soldered.

[Eszett]

muchas gracias, suicidal orange!

[mrvco]

Is there a reliable way to create a plate file by scanning an existing plate?

But... What for? Can't you just copy the layout to KLE looking on a plate and generate file in swillkb builder? It seems to be much easier.

Sent from my Nokia 3310 using Taptalak

What for?

I have an extra TFV2 brass plate and I would like to try an aluminum plate.  KBDFans had no interest in releasing a plate file or making anything other than brass plates for the TFV2.

Can't you just copy the layout to KLE looking on a plate and generate file in swillkb builder?

I don't know, I'm not familiar with swillkb builder or KLE.

[mrvco]

Is there a reliable way to create a plate file by scanning an existing plate?

Yup, there is but I don't think it'd be worth the cost unless you know someone with access to a good high res optical scanner and someone familiar enough to take that data and turn it into a CAD file

I have a local 3D Printshop, I'll have to ask and see how much it wold cost to scan the plate.

[totaltotal]

Thanks, suicidal_orange. I think I’m going to return the Leopold for something that gives me more flexibility. I don’t intend to go nuts customizing, but it would be nice to at least have the capability to customize more than just the keycaps.

[MXTopre]

How would you compare the height of the Leopold FC660C to the HHKB Hybrid Type-S? Are they the same height?


How would you compare typing feel between FC660C/Type-S? I had a chance to try a brand new HHKB and I didn't really like it. Based on all the positive reviews of the Topre switches, I was expecting a much smoother feel. I didn't like how harsh/rough was the way after actuation to the bottom. It felt like it wasn't well oiled, with sand or broken springs. Maybe the keyboard needs some time for a break-in.


PS. These are two things that stopped me from buying the FC660C for now. I also had the opportunity to try Varmilo on MX Blue and it was an amazing feeling. Also, the lower profile suits me a lot better than the HHKB. I'm thinking about buying Varmilo but still don't want to give up on the Leopold

[rowdy]

How would you compare the height of the Leopold FC660C to the HHKB Hybrid Type-S? Are they the same height?

How would you compare typing feel between FC660C/Type-S? I had a chance to try a brand new HHKB and I didn't really like it. Based on all the positive reviews of the Topre switches, I was expecting a much smoother feel. I didn't like how harsh/rough was the way after actuation to the bottom. It felt like it wasn't well oiled, with sand or broken springs. Maybe the keyboard needs some time for a break-in.

PS. These are two things that stopped me from buying the FC660C for now. I also had the opportunity to try Varmilo on MX Blue and it was an amazing feeling. Also, the lower profile suits me a lot better than the HHKB. I'm thinking about buying Varmilo but still don't want to give up on the Leopold

I have heard that Topre domes do take a little while to settle in, although I got my HHKB secondhand so I can't really say how much difference it makes.

[Arbiter]

Choosing a keyboard aesthetic?

[_rubik]

Choosing a keyboard aesthetic?

What about it

[TemperingRocket]

Hi everyone. I bought a new Leopold FC750R and when i started using it i noticed that on most of the keys when i firmly pressed them down i heard a *snap* when i bottomed out that has since gone away. Is this an issue with the Cherry switches? or was the keycap just not seated all the way when they installed them.

[rowdy]

Hi everyone. I bought a new Leopold FC750R and when i started using it i noticed that on most of the keys when i firmly pressed them down i heard a *snap* when i bottomed out that has since gone away. Is this an issue with the Cherry switches? or was the keycap just not seated all the way when they installed them.

Welcome to Geekhack!

If the noise stopped pretty much the first time you bottomed out each key, then it is almost certainly the keycaps not having been installed correctly.

It is unusual for a switch to "snap" unless there is something fairly significant wrong with it.

You can test this hypothesis for yourself by gently removing a keycap, then replacing it, but not pushing it all the way down.

Then bottom out that key - see if it snaps like before.

[domoaligato]

I am looking at trying to get a duck Octagon V3 and know that it has a 11 degree angle.
I have been using 60% pcb's in a OG FMJ poker case forever. Anyone know how that would compare angle wise? I don't have a angle finder to measure my case...

[domoaligato]

I am looking at trying to get a duck Octagon V3 and know that it has a 11 degree angle.
I have been using 60% pcb's in a OG FMJ poker case forever. Anyone know how that would compare angle wise? I don't have a angle finder to measure my case...

Nevermind... Downloaded a protractor app. FMJ poker is 8 degrees. The 3 degree raise doesn't seem as drastic as others have said.

[Nerif]

Are Matias Quiet Linear switches reliable? I heard that they are tend to die over time.

[_rubik]

Are Matias Quiet Linear switches reliable? I heard that they are tend to die over time.

I've heard less than stellar things about Matias. I tend to avoid their boards / switches in general

[suicidal_orange]

Are Matias Quiet Linear switches reliable? I heard that they are tend to die over time.

There used to be lots of complaints about Matias switches, then they supposedly made improvements and I've not heard anything since.  Whether that means they are now more reliable or the damage to their reputation was done and people just stopped buying them is hard to say.

[_rubik]

I'm looking for a split-space 60% pcb. I know the dz60 is an option, but their split seems to be a 3 button split (or some permutation of 2.25, 1.25, 2.75).

I'd prefer a 2x 3u layout like the Matzka. Any recommendations?

[MIGHTY CHICKEN]

I'm looking for a split-space 60% pcb. I know the dz60 is an option, but their split seems to be a 3 button split (or some permutation of 2.25, 1.25, 2.75).

I'd prefer a 2x 3u layout like the Matzka. Any recommendations?

It's a pretty uncommon layout, with 3u mostly being used in a split 7u 3x1x3, if you are sort of looking for the dual spacebar look you could try the quefrency in a 60% config, if I remember you can have a 2.25/2.75 in the middle instead of 2.25/1.25/2.75

[noisyturtle]

Is there such thing as a linear switch that clicks?

[fohat.digs]

If a keyboard switch clicks in the forest and there is no one there to hear it, did it really click?
 

[_rubik]

Is there such thing as a linear switch that clicks?

I suppose you could click mod an alps green? Not sure if that would impact the (lack of) tactility though

[rowdy]

If a keyboard switch clicks in the forest and there is no one there to hear it, did it really click?
 

Yes, because by definition it has clicked in the forest, therefore it did click.

[ChimpyFire]

I'm looking at the DZ60 PCB and Plate, but I was wondering if the below layout would work with Plate B of the DZ60



DZ60 plate = https://kbdfans.com/products/dz60-cnc-aluminum-plate?variant=39293765025931
DZ60RGB V2 PCB = https://kbdfans.com/products/dz60rgb-hot-swap-custom-keyboard-pcb?variant=22105030066224

As you can see I'm wanting to go with a 60% layout with arrow keys. On the product page for the DZ60RGB V2 PCB (link above) there's an arrow key layout (attached) that says it needs Plate B, however when going to the Plate B page it doesn't look like it'll be compatible.

Any help is much appreciated, thanks

[_rubik]

I'm looking at the DZ60 PCB and Plate, but I was wondering if the below layout would work with Plate B of the DZ60

(Attachment Link)

DZ60 plate = https://kbdfans.com/products/dz60-cnc-aluminum-plate?variant=39293765025931
DZ60RGB V2 PCB = https://kbdfans.com/products/dz60rgb-hot-swap-custom-keyboard-pcb?variant=22105030066224

As you can see I'm wanting to go with a 60% layout with arrow keys. On the product page for the DZ60RGB V2 PCB (link above) there's an arrow key layout (attached) that says it needs Plate B, however when going to the Plate B page it doesn't look like it'll be compatible.

Any help is much appreciated, thanks

Looks good to me. (All information found with the two links you included)

[ChimpyFire]

I'm looking at the DZ60 PCB and Plate, but I was wondering if the below layout would work with Plate B of the DZ60

(Attachment Link)

DZ60 plate = https://kbdfans.com/products/dz60-cnc-aluminum-plate?variant=39293765025931
DZ60RGB V2 PCB = https://kbdfans.com/products/dz60rgb-hot-swap-custom-keyboard-pcb?variant=22105030066224

As you can see I'm wanting to go with a 60% layout with arrow keys. On the product page for the DZ60RGB V2 PCB (link above) there's an arrow key layout (attached) that says it needs Plate B, however when going to the Plate B page it doesn't look like it'll be compatible.

Any help is much appreciated, thanks

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

Looks good to me. (All information found with the two links you included)

Awesome, thankyou. As you could probably tell, it's my first keyboard and I don't want to buy incompatible parts!

[_rubik]

I'm looking at the DZ60 PCB and Plate, but I was wondering if the below layout would work with Plate B of the DZ60

(Attachment Link)

DZ60 plate = https://kbdfans.com/products/dz60-cnc-aluminum-plate?variant=39293765025931
DZ60RGB V2 PCB = https://kbdfans.com/products/dz60rgb-hot-swap-custom-keyboard-pcb?variant=22105030066224

As you can see I'm wanting to go with a 60% layout with arrow keys. On the product page for the DZ60RGB V2 PCB (link above) there's an arrow key layout (attached) that says it needs Plate B, however when going to the Plate B page it doesn't look like it'll be compatible.

Any help is much appreciated, thanks

(Attachment Link)

(Attachment Link)

Looks good to me. (All information found with the two links you included)

Awesome, thankyou. As you could probably tell, it's my first keyboard and I don't want to buy incompatible parts!

No worries at all! Good on you for double checking.

I didn’t mean that as an RTFM, but more to show you what to look for in the future.

Enjoy your new project and welcome!

[Go Gurt Stick]

How can I dampen the sound of my keyboard while still keeping a high-pitched sound?

[AdriG]

Is there any 65% soldered (bcos of ISO) pcb with knob to buy right now?

[user 18]

Is there any 65% soldered (bcos of ISO) pcb with knob to buy right now?

Off the top of my head, the Quefrency is a (split) 65% with ISO and support for a rotary encoder or two. There may be more options out there.

[ShangWang]

How do you remove costar stabilizers off a mounted-plate keyboard?

This is my keyboard:
Microsoft Word - HyperX Alloy FPS keyboard user manual.docx (ssl-images-amazon.com)

Alloy FPS Pro Mechanical Gaming Keyboard | HyperX (hyperxgaming.com)

Does anyone know how it should be done? I tried looking for tutorials and none of them show how to remove costars, only cherries.

[ShangWang]

I messed up the links my bad:
https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/C1fnGA6NDES.pdf
https://www.hyperxgaming.com/us/keyboards/alloy-fps-pro-mechanical-gaming-keyboard

Also this video shows how to remove cherry stabilizers but they are not plate mounted. Is removing plate mounted costar stabilizers the same but I would have to remove the PCB to access the backplate or do I pull the stabilizers from the top?

t=300s

[user 18]

How do you remove costar stabilizers off a mounted-plate keyboard?

Remove the stabilized cap and surrounding caps, to give you space to work. Remove the white insert pegs which connect to the keycaps, so you just have the wire and plate-mounted clips remaining. Each of the plate-mounted parts is held in by nubs at the top and bottom of the mounting slot. The nub at the top (or side without the wire, in case your board has an upside-down stabilizer) is very small, so if you push the 'spike' at the top end towards the bottom, you should feel the clip pop out of the board. If you apply too much pressure here, it's possible to snap the mount in two, so be careful! Once both sides are popped out, you can slide back and up to remove the stabilizer. To insert new stabilizers, just do the reverse -- slide the mount in from top to bottom, so the larger bottom clip is engaged, and push the top spike in until it clips.

This video shows the general process, although they pop the bottom of the mount out, which requires a bit more bending. They also show removal of the wire, which I've found to be unnecessary.

 

[Eutyches]

Hello, everyone! I am new here (and it is high time that I have joined).

I am hoping that someone will please tell me what key switch type is photographed below.

I am looking at purchasing a keyboard from someone locally, but the person does not know what the switch type is -- nor do I!

Many thanks in advance.

[user 18]

Hello, everyone! I am new here (and it is high time that I have joined).

I am hoping that someone will please tell me what key switch type is photographed below.

I am looking at purchasing a keyboard from someone locally, but the person does not know what the switch type is -- nor do I!

Many thanks in advance.

Well, from those photos it looks like the board is set up for solderless switch swapping, so if you don't like the switch, it should be relatively straightforward to swap to any plate-mount MX-compatible switch.

I didn't recognize that specific design at first, but it looks like it says 'MMK' in your first image, below the stem. Some googling brought me to this page, which looks like a match: https://www.aliexpress.com/i/1005002999358935.html. Based exclusively on looking at the force curve, it probably feels somewhat similar to Cherry MX reds.

[Eutyches]

Well, from those photos it looks like the board is set up for solderless switch swapping, so if you don't like the switch, it should be relatively straightforward to swap to any plate-mount MX-compatible switch.

I didn't recognize that specific design at first, but it looks like it says 'MMK' in your first image, below the stem. Some googling brought me to this page, which looks like a match: https://www.aliexpress.com/i/1005002999358935.html. Based exclusively on looking at the force curve, it probably feels somewhat similar to Cherry MX reds.

Many thanks! Splendid 

[Eutyches]

UPDATE: I found the answer! It is a MOMOKA_ERGO: https://www.momoka.co/ergo

Alright! After the help earlier (see above), I did in fact buy the keyboard from the local seller. I thought that it was an Ergodox, but the layout is actually slightly different (note the missing internal column on both sides).

So -- what board is this?

And how can I program it (if at all)?  QMK?

There are no identifying markers. It glows red around the whole body on both sides. USB-C. Everything looks prefabricated / nicely manufactured. The switches are Flamingos.

[user 18]

Glad you figured it out! Good luck getting it customized to your liking 

UPDATE: I found the answer! It is a MOMOKA_ERGO: https://www.momoka.co/ergo